EDDIE BAUER’S TEAM/2 RUSSIA’S TEEN QUEEN BRAND/13 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • November 13, 2007 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Two for the Road In preparation for their fi rst tour, kicking off Wednesday, the ladies of indie pop band Uh Huh Her, Leisha Hailey and Camila Grey, are pulling out their party frocks. But not just any dress will do: these musicians have their eyes on modern, sexier-than-sweet looks. For more on the duo, see pages 6 and 7.

A New Designer Deal: TSM Capital Acquires Stake in Rachel Roy By Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK — Rachel Roy is ready to step SISTANT: GEORGINA BORDEN; STYLED BY MONICA SCHWEIGER GEORGINA BORDEN; STYLED BY SISTANT: on the accelerator — with the help of recently formed TSM Capital. TSM Capital, founded by Marvin Traub, Aslaug Magnusdottir and Mortimer Singer, has acquired an undisclosed “significant” minority stake in Roy’s label. The plan is to further grow the Rachel Roy brand at wholesale globally, expand with new categories and open freestanding retail units in key U.S. locations. “The fact that I have found people I really enjoy working with is so important when you’re going to be See TSM, Page 12

Grey, standing, in Sass & Bide’s sequin silk dress with a Gara Danielle necklace and Jimmy Choo shoes, and Hailey in Morphine Generation’s silk dress, Erickson Beamon necklace, Wolford tights and Miu Miu shoes. PHOTO BY ASHLEY BARRETT; HAIR BY AARON LIGHT AND MAKEUP BY ROBIN GLASER USING DERMALOGICA, BOTH AT CELESTINE TALENT; FASHION AS FASHION CELESTINE TALENT; BOTH AT ROBIN GLASER AARON LIGHT AND MAKEUP BY USING DERMALOGICA, HAIR BY ASHLEY BARRETT; PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM Eddie Bauer Taps Exec Trio By Vicki M. Young deliver to the customer, and get the goods that WWDTUESDAY our customers are looking for.” Fiske is hoping to Ready-to-Wear/Textiles ddie Bauer Holdings Inc. on Monday bolstered restore Bauer to its past reputation as an athleti- Eits operational ranks with three executive cally dual gender brand, but he also knows he will FASHION appointments. The move is part of the retailer’s fi rst have to reestablish the men’s business. Fashion’s very much on the minds of the ladies from the rock ’n’ roll girl turnaround efforts, which include repositioning The women’s business is “good,” he said, noting band Uh Huh Her. the brand. that in the past 10 years the company basically walked 6 The three executives named were Marv Toland, away from the businesses involving men’s, among 46, as senior vice president and chief fi nancial offi - others, and outerwear, to a lesser extent. Along with GENERAL cer; Freya R. Brier, 49, senior vice president, gener- branding and merchandising, the company will also TSM Capital, cofounded by Marvin Traub, has acquired a minority stake al counsel and secretary, and Ronn Hall, 50, senior have to revamp its marketing to go with the new brand 1 in designer Rachel Roy’s company. vice president of sourcing and supply chain. All positioning, redo its catalogue and work on leveraging three report directly to Neil S. Fiske, president and its expertise as a multichannel retailer. Yohji Yamamoto has opened his largest store to date — a 10,300- chief executive offi cer. The cfo position was previ- It won’t happen overnight. With apparel lead 3 square-foot fl agship in Antwerp, Belgium. ously held on an interim basis by David Taylor. The times what they are, the ceo doesn’t anticipate no- RTW: Andrew Gn — known for his opulent, couture quality designs general counsel position has been vacant since ticeable changes in product offerings until the fall 8 — is angling for new avenues of growth for his Paris-based house. July. The sourcing position is newly created. 2008 and holiday selling seasons, although there will As part of the retailer’s turnaround, Fiske told some slight merchandising tweaks before then. Peter Mahler hosted a private dinner in Chicago for Lyn Devon, James WWD that the fi rst order of business will be to “My overall impression coming in was that 8 Galanos and photographer Victor Skrebneski, among others. defi ne what the company wants to communicate Bauer was a brand that drifted off its natural path TEXTILES: Spring and summer collections shown at Milan’s Filo yarn fair about the brand. for at least a decade and that it really lost its iden- 9 combined the environmental movement with technological innovation. “It starts with redefi ning and clarifying the tity and soul as a brand. This is a real opportunity Eddie Bauer brand....It is an active, outdoor life- to get it back,” Fiske said. Russian teen Kira Plastinina, whose apparel and accessories business is style brand and it’s about getting Bauer back to its So far there are no plans to change the store 13 bankrolled by her father, plans to add 10 U.S. stores in the fi rst half of 2008. roots and heritage as a premium outdoor brand. count of 395 apparel and outlet sites, but the empha- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 That will be the originating point of our turn- sis will be on making each store more productive. around plans,” Fiske said. In addition, despite interest from private eq- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. He said once the team knows what it wants the uity fi rms, Fiske said that the “commitment to the [email protected], using the individual’s name. brand to be, it can start “translating the brand into board is to operate Bauer as a public company an effective merchandising strategy that brings and grow it to its full potential. There is no discus- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT the brand to life.” sion of anything about operating Bauer other than ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. The ceo expects Hall, in particular, to play a as a stand-alone company.” VOLUME 194, NO. 103. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and December, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October and, November, critical role in sourcing to get the right balance The company is set to report third-quarter re- and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance between “quality at the price points we need to sults today. Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: Shoppers Ease Into Holiday Season SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit oliday shopping www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new is getting off to a subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production H correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, slow start. please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other According to the Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list National Retail available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. Federation’s 2007 If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Holiday Consumer 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, Intentions Survey, 71.4 BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED percent of shoppers MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR have less than 10 per- CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR cent of their holiday DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY shopping completed. A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Even blockbust- er promotions over the past two weeks at retailers such as Wal-Mart Stores, J.C. In Brief Penney Co. and Kohl’s Corp. did not lure con- ● AEFFE ADVANCES: Growth in Europe and Russia boosted sumers to make a dent Aeffe SpA’s third-quarter numbers. Net profi t for the three in their holiday lists. months ended Sept. 30 rose 43.5 percent to 6.3 million euros, However, a cold weath- or $8.6 million. Operating profi t grew 27.6 percent to 13.6 mil- er snap in key markets lion euros, or $18.6 million. Sales for the period advanced 7.1 did drive traffic this percent to 92.7 million euros, or $127 million. Sales growth in past weekend. Russia, Italy and other European countries compensated for de- “Retailers have clines in Japan and the United States. “We are satisfi ed with the tried to entice con- Retailers are eager to see crowds of shoppers for the holidays. results obtained in the fi rst nine months of 2007,” Aeffe chair- sumers into the stores man Massimo Ferretti said in a statement, noting that spring- with early sales and promo- summer 2008 orders are up 10 percent. “We are hopeful for the tions this holiday season, but future despite the ongoing unfavorable trend in currencies.” shoppers are clearly on their own schedule,” said Phil Rist, ● MORE PINK IN NEW ENGLAND: Thomas Pink is to open vice president of strategy at its third boutique this month in the Boston area. The retailer BIGresearch, a consumer mar- will launch a 1,500-square-foot store Saturday at the Natick ket intelligence fi rm that con- Collection in Natick, Mass., which will give it 18 shops in the ducted the survey. U.S. Company president Robert Dundon said the location was Young adults ages 18 to 24 selected because of the area’s affluence, proximity to Boston are the least prepared, with 76.2 and attraction among city dwellers seeking a suburban shop- percent fi nished with less than ping experience. The unit will offer more casual options for 10 percent of their shopping. stay-at-home moms and for people with home offices. Thomas Gift cards will also contin- Pink has plans to expand in the Southeast, Southwest and ue to be a popular item. More Northwest. It will open a store at the Palazzo Las Vegas resort than half of the respondents, and casino on Jan. 17, Dundon said. 56.6 percent, said they plan on buying gift cards this year. ● LE COQ SPORTIF SIGNS NOAH: Two weeks into his first sea- “Because gift cards are never son as a professional basketball player, Chicago Bulls power for- out of stock, consumers feel ward Joakim Noah has signed a six-year endorsement deal with that they can wait until the last Le Coq Sportif, the French footwear and apparel brand that his minute to start shopping,” Rist father, tennis pro Yannick Noah, has endorsed for years. said. “Retailers may continue to wrestle with the best ways to goods, including outerwear and “now that the weather has start- bring people into the stores ear- winter boots, according to a re- ed to cool, consumers will start lier this year.” port by Planalytics, a weather to think about holiday shopping Although unseasonable analysis fi rm. by making lists, researching gift Correction weather curbed spending during Tracy Mullin, president and ideas and window-shopping The Ovarian Research Cancer Fund was misnamed on page 9, October, the recent cold blast chief executive officer of the around town.” Friday. has produced a surge in winter NRF, said in a statement that — Jeanine Poggi WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 3 WWD.COM

Yamamoto’s New Home in Antwerp Pakistan’s Textile, Apparel By Katya Foreman Shipments Said on Track ANTWERP, Belgium — Yohji Yamamoto has opened his largest store in the world smack in the center of By Mahlia S. Lone Antwerp’s fashion hub. Spanning some 10,300 square feet, the store LAHORE, Pakistan — With President Pervez opened last month on the ground fl oor of ModeNatie, Musharraf promising general elections in January, home to the Flanders Fashion Institute, the Antwerp Pakistan’s textile and apparel executives said the Fashion Academy and the MoMu fashion museum. turmoil caused by the state of emergency has calmed Filling the gargantuan space meant gathering enough for them to reassure importers the crisis will Yamamoto’s entire portfolio of labels, including Limi not affect their textile production and shipments. Feu, the women’s line designed by his daughter, Limi. “Things are slowly improving compared to last “So far, her line’s been selling particularly well,” week when the emergency was first declared,” said Keizo Tamoto, Yamamoto’s executive vice presi- said Shahid Kamil Butt, chief executive offi cer of dent and chief executive offi cer, who described strong Shahkam Industries here, a vertically integrated business overall. knitwear exporter with a capacity of 65,000 dozen “[Customers in Antwerp] are individuals. It’s a garments a month that employs 5,000 people. “We good place for niche, designer-driven brands,” he now have some clarity and direction as to where the said, projecting fi rst-year sales of around 1.5 million political situation is headed, whereas earlier not euros, or $2.2 million. knowing the situation did not allow us to explain Previously an Italian restaurant, the space, now our future plans to our clients. At least now we have bathed in dazzling white, has been stripped back some concrete base.” with the help of local Belgian architect Wim Goes. Taking an optimistic stance, Kamil Butt said: Briefed to keep design to a strict minimum, Goes “Now that we know the emergency will not be a long, made white pillars the main structural element of drawn out affair, we can confi dently reassure import- the store’s cavernous hall, edged with sweeping ers. Pakistan is still a very competitively priced mar- white canvas blinds that fold to form hexagonal Views of the Yohji Yamamoto store in Antwerp. ket with acceptable quality and a strong raw mate- soundproof fi tting rooms. Strips of neon lighting can rial base. With the appreciation of the Indian rupee also be adjusted according to the weather, and Chinese product recalls, U.S. importers are from a dim glow to a searing glare. Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto at the launch party. looking for reasons to place their orders in Pakistan. While Antwerp might not be top-of-mind Political stability will allow them to do so.” for a Japanese designer’s fl agship, Yamamoto However, Tariq Hameed, a director of Prime is considered to be a spiritual father of Service Group Textiles, Kasur, said, “Strikes have sorts among local fashion heroes like Ann a greater affect on units located outside of the city Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk of Lahore. Political parties have labor unions affi li- Bikkembergs and Veronique Branquinho, all of ated with them and if the parties call a strike, then whom gathered at the opening-night party. the unions follow it, impeding the progress of order “There’s a great respect between Belgian fulfi llment. Once an importer has opened [a letter and Japanese designers as their worlds go very of credit], you have to fulfi ll it, regardless of disrup- well together,” said Kaat Debo, head curator of tions. If you miss these targets, importers go to India MoMu, which hosted a Yamamoto exhibition, and Bangladesh, two countries that have taken a lot presciently titled “Dream Shop,” in 2006. of our business. Frankly, Pakistan’s textile sector is in Next up for Yamamoto is a unit on a bad slump. The cost of production is way too high. Gansevoort Street in New York, slated to open The emergency is just the cherry on the cake.” in January, followed by a three-level store on Prime Service Group Textiles manufactures knit-

Rue Cambon in Paris in March. ELISABETH BROEKAERT PHOTOS BY wear for Delta Fashion Apparel, custom-made shirts for designer Janine Giorgenti, based in New York, and denim jeans for Delta Garments. In addition, approach from the image the City of Angels. This marks the U.S. Prime Service has been working with the European we have of her, like a debut of a new vintage-centric theme, market for nearly 20 years. Fashion Scoops heavier shoe or studs.” following the openings of a shop-in-shop Hameed said that mills that are 100 percent ex- inside its Mexico City fl agship over the port-based are suffering more compared with those RAISING THE PROFILE: Sir Philip Green BOOK CLUB: Bob Colacello celebrated summer and two stand-alone boutiques that also supply the local market. Many spinning and is certainly out to build the Topshop the launch of his latest tome, “Bob in Berlin and Cologne, Germany, in knitting mills have closed down operations in the re- name in the U.S. before opening stores Colacello’s Out” on Friday night in the October. Occupying a 1,200-square-foot cent past. here. The British retailer is one of the parlor at Chateau Marmont with an space next door to an existing American “Only the big guns, companies that have several sponsors (and the only foreign one) of appropriately cozy and artsy cocktail Apparel-branded shop in Los Angeles’ vertically integrated mills under one ownership, Thursday night’s 7th on Sale, along party hosted by art and fashion power edgy Echo Park neighborhood, the new such as Nishat Textiles and Kohinoor Textiles, both with Kenneth Cole Productions, eBay, couple Katherine Ross and Michael store will offer men’s and women’s based in Lahore, and that have around half a million MAC Aids Fund, Polo Ralph Lauren, Govan. “Every author dreams of having a vintage clothing and accessories, along spindles production base are doing most of the ex- Vogue, Marc Jacobs International and tired hand,” he joked as he autographed with American Apparel’s jersey basics port. Single mill owners have higher costs of produc- the CFDA Foundation. And Green isn’t books and chatted with old friends Brett and one-off samples. If it’s anything tion and their smaller units are no longer economi- coming alone: He’ll bring along Kate Easton Ellis, Betsy Bloomingdale, James like its forerunners in Germany, the cally viable,” he contended. Moss to the 69th Regiment Armory in Galanos and John Waters. The crowd California Apparel stores in the U.S. All Pakistan Textile Manufacturers Association Manhattan. Green has donated clothing caused him to get a bit nostalgic: “This will remove the sexually provocative (Punjab) chairman Samir Saigol said there were from the Kate Moss and mainline is bringing back fond memories of the photo montages while aiming for an two ways of looking at the current textile situation Topshop collections for the sale. Seventies and Eighties,” Colacello said eclectic fl ea market vibe with Memphis- during the state of emergency. “One is in regards to of the Warhol-era photos, for which style chairs and snowboards. American importers who have already been working with us. SEX AND THE FASHION: “Sex and the he refused to take credit. “Basically Apparel said it has plans to expand its They understand that this is an emergency of a con- City” ignited many fashion trends in the photo editors put the whole thing vintage retail concept next year to New stitutional and political nature and not a business its day — Manolo Blahnik and Jimmy together, I just wrote a few paragraphs.” York, Paris, Toronto and Calgary, Alberta. emergency,” he said. Choo among them? With the SATC Colacello is spending more time in Los The company also expects to complete “We hope it will be business as usual,” continued movie under production, Patricia Field Angeles researching his latest Reagan its proposed merger with Endeavor Saigol. “Anything that disrupts the fl ow of traffi c and is in the process of making a few book, detailing the White House years, Acquisition Corp. in December, a year goods should hopefully be kept to a minimum. There more items (particularly shoes) instant which he said would be complete “in a after the deal was unveiled. may be minor delays in shipments but, in my opin- must-haves. “Without giving too much couple of years.” ion, I think they will averted. away, there is a shoe from Dior that BIG ON SMALL: Marc Jacobs fans aged “The other is in regards to importers who have Carrie wears all the time that I am sure toddler to 12 will soon have their own not worked with Pakistan mills as yet. We have to will be on fi re,” Field disclosed. “But shopping paradise to play in. Word work hard as exporters to make sure that their per- even with the TV show, there was no is Jacobs is about to open a store ception of the situation is the true one [and not one consciousness to endorse a particular for his budding children’s wear label hyped up by the media]. It’s more challenging for brand.” Field also has been working Little Marc in the Manhattan’s West the mills to get accurate and timely information on various advertising projects, the Village. Few details could be learned, across to them.” Though Musharraf promised on Sunday to shed upcoming TV show “Cashmere Mafi a,” Bob Colacello and but sources said it will bear the name position as Army chief of staff and hold general elec- and a Barbie-inspired line she is feting Katherine Ross and Little Marc Jacobs, and is expected to tions by Jan. 9, he has so far given no date when the tonight at her store — but “Sex and Michael Govan. open before the end of this month just the City,” of course, holds a special off Bleecker Street. The Little Marc state of emergency will be lifted. place in fashion pop culture. “My label launched softly with waffl e-weave Pakistan’s opposition parties point out intention in the movie was to approach THINK GLOBAL, ACT LOCAL: American thermal separates for toddlers in 2004, Musharraf ’s sweeping powers due to the suspension it realizing that four or fi ve years have Apparel is applying the concept of but expanded into a full collection last of the country’s constitution and the state of emer- passed, and how have these four girls recycling to retail. The Los Angeles- spring in license with Zannier Group. gency have already led to thousands of arrests and evolved? So the basic structure is based retailer, which has 163 stores The cool clothes and accessories, which a ban on rallies. The Attorney General has also said the same, but there are little twists worldwide, will unveil a new concept, are for infants to 12-year-olds, are in military courts will now try civilians on charges rang- on Carrie that will be an opposite dubbed California Apparel, on Nov. 17 in the vein of big Marc by Marc Jacobs. ing from treason to inciting public unrest. PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY 4 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Hopes Early Birds Stoke Holiday

By Katherine Bowers DANVERS, Mass. — Wal-Mart’s early- bird deals on electronics lured Mary Ann and Rick Boucher to the store here at dawn — three weeks before the holiday shopping season kickoff. The parents of fi ve spent in excess of $1,000 — about $300 more than anticipated. They picked up two Acer laptops for $348 each, as planned, and made impulse pur- chases of an early-bird special DVD player as well as a small plasma television, two pairs of Levi’s Signature jeans for Mary Ann and a sack of Ol’ Roy dog food. “I follow the deals,’’ Mary Ann Boucher said. “I’ll be watching [Wal-Mart specials] very closely to see what else we can get here.” The Bouchers’ response is just what Wal-Mart Stores Inc. has in mind for holi- day ’07. The $345 billion retailer said it will have similar specials, unveiled on its Web site 24 hours in advance, before Black Friday, the day after Thanksgiving. The world’s largest retailer is trying to translate these early moves into a ro- bust holiday season. The challenge is Wal-Mart is depending on earlier formidable. Wal-Mart same-store sales in promotions to boost holiday revenue.

October gained 0.4 percent, less than the MEGHAN JONES PHOTOS BY 1.1 percent boost projected by analysts. And the comps increases at Wal-Mart’s had reached a new level of intensity. Overall, there was a greater focus on stores division have been shrinking each “We have spent more money and more tops, which are easier to source for less year since December 2003. December effort on Christmas than ever before,” Scott than $10 retail, and little fashion denim. comps were up 2.8 percent in 2004, 2.4 said. “They are going to like the Christmas Styles across all brands were less than $10 percent in 2005 and 1.3 percent last year. shops and they are going to love the prices.” — including a White Stag quilted microfi ber Wal-Mart has said a portion of its holiday However, Wal-Mart remains exposed vest with fl eece lining, $8.88, that showed a sales have moved to January because of in apparel this holiday. With slow sales surprising level of quality and likely would the growing popularity of gift cards. across most retailers in September and have been $15 or more last year. The retailer needs Santa to deliver a October because of warm weather and eco- Faded Glory had $9 ribbed turtleneck big win to prove it is turning around the nomic unease, there is extra merchandise, sweaters, Hanes had half-zip fl eece tops $226 billion U.S. division. said professor Stephen J. Hoch, director at $9 and No Bo had cropped hoodies in a Many factors will infl uence the out- of the Jay H. Baker Retailing Initiative at range of appealing prints for $7. Screen- come. Wal-Mart’s core customer is hurting the University of Pennsylvania’s Wharton printed T-shirts were $6.88. economically because of high fuel costs, School of Business. Gone from rack tops were signs that the housing slowdown and tighter credit. Wal-Mart’s leaner inventory and dra- showed lifestyle fashion images and hang Although the retailer is still vulnerable in matically lowered prices will not shield it tags that gave shoppers tips about how apparel, Wal-Mart’s unequivocal return to from sluggish sales if mall and midtier re- to put together outfi ts. No overt holiday a price-fi rst strategy — what it does best tailers mark their branded merchandise styles, like Christmas sweaters and glit- — has been lauded by analysts. The new way down to clear it. Consumers would tery tops, were stocked yet, which may ad slogan, “Save More Money. Live Better,” likely pay more for a branded bargain have represented a lost opportunity. and the supporting holiday campaign, than buy Wal-Mart’s private label goods “I’ll buy apparel if something grabs “The more you save, the more Christmas at full price, Hoch said. me as I walk by,” said shopper Tara Rufo, you can give,” is positioned to reassure “Apparel is clogged up and the pain will a twentysomething with a pierced lip and consumers they can fi ll the gas tank as well be shared by all,’’ he said. “Because even if rockabilly style. as the space under the Christmas tree. Wal-Mart’s not sitting on old goods, some- She bought one of the early-bird lap- one else is.” tops and an HP combo printer-scanner for 15,000 other items, about 20 percent more Aside from these factors, Wal-Mart’s ap- $50, and was off to check out car stereos. than last year. parel looks more focused than in the past Nothing in apparel had tempted her. Wal-Mart knows Many of the markdowns, such as $5 18 months. “We know that the fi rst place a con- “ Hanes fl eece sweatshirts, were identical The retailer has clipped risky fashion sumer starts cutting when they are forced there’s a lot less to deals Wal-Mart offered three and four from many U.S. stores, including the unit to make trade-offs is fashion and accesso- years ago. The national Christmas ads, in Danvers, which used to stock Metro 7, ries,” said Candace Corlett, principal of disposable income out featuring a woman bragging about giving the trendy contemporary label yanked WSL Strategic Retail. “We all have closet a DVD player to her husband, began run- from hundreds of stores in late 2006 and inventory that we can shop out of.” there. ning the week of Oct. 29. early 2007 after being expanded beyond WSL’s “How America Shops,” a quar- ” — Michael Appel, “Wal-Mart is very concerned about its customer base. terly survey of 1,500 consumers, has their share of market,” said Michael Wal-Mart isn’t giving up entirely, how- shown almost 50 percent of Wal-Mart Quest Turnaround Advisors Appel, managing director of consultancy ever. Walmart.com had a concise selec- shoppers “being very candid about the Quest Turnaround Advisors. “With the is- tion of clearly presented trends, such as a fact that they have had to cut back spend- “Wal-Mart’s domestic turnaround sues their customers are facing — resets tunic top with jeweled necklines ($19.88) ing when they shop because they have to strategy fi nally seems to make sense,” of mortgages, rise in gas and heating oil and sweater dress ($29.88) under its new pay for their gas,” Corlett said. Goldman Sachs retail analyst Adrianne costs — Wal-Mart knows there’s a lot less z.b.d. label, priced at 50 percent to 100 Wal-Mart’s ad campaign suggestion Shapira wrote after the company’s ana- disposable income out there. They’ve percent higher, on average. that shoppers won’t have to make trade- lyst conference in October. “Reasserting come out swinging to get as much as they But in stores that service a core, low- offs and can still give lots of presents price leadership through rollbacks and can, as fast as possible.” and middle-income shopper, Wal-Mart while spending less will likely resonate an increased focus on basic items within To succeed, Wal-Mart needs to bring in has simplifi ed apparel’s pricing structure with shoppers. But Corlett said the re- the home and apparel categories harks holiday shoppers early and often. The U.S. and assortment. tailer still lacks the brands teens covet. back to Wal-Mart’s traditional productiv- division has seen sales slow as customers Dottie Mattison, senior vice president She said Wal-Mart remains weak in ap- ity loop strategy…something that could stretched the intervals between shopping and general merchandise manager of parel presentation. lead to improving domestic fundamentals trips in order to save on gas. The retailer apparel, articulated the direction at the “The Metro 7 styling was OK, but the over the next 12 to 24 months.” also has been outmaneuvered in fashion analyst conference: “Wal-Mart is about stuff would be horribly wrinkled,” Corlett On a brisk Friday this month, about and home decor by most competitors. price leadership,” she said. “Helping our said. “Or you’d have half a rack sell and 20 customers queued up for the early- At the analysts’ meeting, Wal-Mart customer take care of the family, exert- something totally unrelated stuck on the bird discounts in the electronics depart- disclosed apparel same-store sales ing our scale…to deliver key items for rack with it.” ment at the Wal-Mart store here, 20 miles were down 7.4 percent for the three the family, at $10 and less.” Britt Beemer, founder of America’s northwest of Boston, and then fanned out months July through September, com- A year ago, as the company dabbled Research Group, which also tracks con- through the store. pared with increases at J.C. Penney in $22 George sweaters, low price points sumer shopping behaviors, said the re- “Wal-Mart is gaining mind share with Co. Inc., 1.9 percent, and Kohl’s Corp., seemed increasingly scarce. That turned modeled apparel departments have a earlier promotions versus last year — a pos- 1.3 percent. By scooping up shoppers’ out to be a major gaffe since Wal-Mart Target-like openness and are easier to itive for a highly promotional holiday sea- dollars early, Wal-Mart may be less af- does more than half of its apparel sales shop, but “the customer is still not seeing son,” wrote Citigroup retail analyst Deborah fected by the superior merchandising at $10 or less, Mattison said. what they like on the racks.” Weinswig, who picked Wal-Mart and Saks operations in apparel and home decor At the Danvers store, the shift in strat- Wal-Mart still “needs to come up with Fifth Avenue to outperform rivals. of rivals such as Target Corp., Penney’s egy was palpable. There were fewer coor- what Plan B is in apparel because Plan A Wal-Mart began several rounds of and Kohl’s. President and chief execu- dinating head-to-toe looks and more indi- is not working,” he said. “The remodeled holiday price cuts and rollbacks, starting tive offi cer H. Lee Scott told analysts vidual items, such as hoodies or Henley department at least gives them a clean with toys in October and proceeding to the effort put into planning Christmas tops that have high volume potential. slate to start on.” WWD congratulates Contributing Senior Executive Editor Etta Froio

on the establishment of the Etta Froio Equal Opportunity Award

Sponsored by Legal Momentum, an organization that has advanced women’s rights since 1970 6 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 Rock Pretty

Hailey in Richard Ruiz’s cotton and Lurex dress. Grey in a nylon trench from 3.1 Phillip Lim and Collection K’s cotton and spandex tank.

WITH THEIR JAGGED BANGS AND PREDILECTION on [the EP] ‘I See Red’ [Plaid Records] in my bedroom,” for ink-colored drainpipes, the ladies of Uh Huh Her, says Grey, who cowrote each track with Hailey. “The sound who embark on their first tour with an opening show at actually came pretty naturally.” Vancouver’s Media Club on Nov. 14, may appear to have That sound — one which manages to combine a lush the rock ’n’ roll girl band aesthetic down pat. But fashion orchestration reminiscent of The Eurythmics with the — from Marni’s jewel-toned shifts to James Perse’s supple, lyrical wit of Tegan and Sara — is already winning over the draped Ts — is very much on the minds of Leisha Hailey alt-rock set, which came out in droves for the pair’s preview and Camila Grey, and they’re not shy about admitting it. concert at L.A.’s Knitting Factory on Oct. 26. Wearing a Marni “I’ve come to realize that the most important thing dress (Hailey) and Givenchy skirt with a vintage top (Grey), besides the music, when you’re performing, is the clothes,” the duo played the fi ve songs from their debut EP — and got says Hailey, who approached Grey last fall after watching an initial taste of the challenges of dressing for crowds who expect a sartorial edge from their entertainment. “Fashion is really important on ‘The L Word,’ and being “I want us to complement each other onstage. It helps that on the show has defi nitely infl uenced my style. I’m trying to fi nd a balance between my Victorian prim look and some I’m a lot more girly and into dresses, while if there’s anyone who sexier pieces,” says Hailey, who previously dated “The L Word” stylist and Freecity designer Nina Garduno. Hailey likes to wear black, head to toe, all day long, it’s Camila.” admits her on-screen alter ego’s affi nity for romantic pieces — a pooled-silk shift here, a ruffl ed blouse there — Leisha Hailey, Uh Huh Her — is one she has adopted. “I want us to complement each other onstage. It helps that I’m a lot more girly and into dresses, while if there’s anyone who likes to wear black, the singer perform with her former band Mellowdrone. head to toe, all day long, it’s Camila.” Hailey pauses. “I Best known for her role as the spirited Alice Pieszecki on should probably strive to be a little edgier.” Showtime’s “The L Word,” Hailey, who plays guitar, had As for Grey, “I defi nitely revert back to the Seventies been eager to hit the strings again after the 2001 breakup — skinny jeans, a James Perse T-shirt and a great Gucci of her alt-pop band The Murmurs. “I’d been looking for a coat,” she says, noting that for the appropriate dash of partner for a while, and I realized Camila had exactly the rocker chic, a Stella McCartney suit is on her tour wish right sound,” Hailey explains. Conveniently, Grey, fresh list. “Growing up in Texas, all I wore were Cole Haans and off collaborations with Melissa Auf der Maur, Dr. Dre and khakis,” she says ruefully. “I do like dark. I’m making up composer Hans Zimmer, was herself eager to break out of for lost time.” backup singing and session work. “We recorded the songs — Sarah Haight; styled by Monica Schweiger WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 7 WWD.COM RY FROM ERICKSON BEAMON; FASHION ASSISTANT: GEORGINA BORDEN ASSISTANT: RY FROM ERICKSON BEAMON; FASHION

Hailey in Grai’s leather jacket and Matsu’s silk dress. Emilio Cavallini tights; Miu Miu shoes. Grey in Carolina Aubele’s silk chiffon and tulle dress. Jimmy Choo shoes. PHOTOS BY ASHLEY BARRETT; HAIR BY AARON LIGHT AND MAKEUP BY ROBIN GLASER USING DERMALOGICA, BOTH AT CELESTINE TALENT; ALL JEWEL CELESTINE TALENT; BOTH AT ROBIN GLASER AARON LIGHT USING AND MAKEUP BY DERMALOGICA, HAIR BY ASHLEY BARRETT; PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Andrew Gn Still Going Strong After 10 Years

“I’m known for luxurious embroideries,” said Gn. “I still do a By Robert Murphy Andrew lot of them, but I’m taking a more minimal approach. For spring, Gn and a PARIS — Many designers strive to occupy a market niche. But there were a lot of tone-on-tone embroideries and simpler shapes. look from what happens when that niche grows into a $10 million business? I wanted to use couture techniques and make it for today.” the spring That is the situation in which Andrew Gn — known for his opulent, Gn loves interacting with women. He receives select private cli- runway. couture-quality confections — fi nds himself these days as he angles ents in his studio in the Marais district here and he has become a for new avenues of growth for his 10-year-old, Paris-based house. pro at dishing out style advice “There are a lot of opportunities for us to continue to build the during his various personal business,” said Gn, 40. appearances. Recently, for In January, Gn will present his fi rst pre-fall collection to retail- example, he was scheduled to ers, having launched cruise two seasons ago. He just signed on for host a trunk show at Capitol, a second collaboration with Leiber on handbags. And his burgeon- in Charlotte, N.C. A trip to ing shoe collection is selling well and is stocked in some 80 stores. Moscow to meet clients was Meanwhile, Gn said he is exploring the possibility of opening his scheduled after that. own stores. Gn said 20 percent of his “I’d like to do two simultaneously, in London and in Paris,” he said. business is generated at trunk In an industry dominated by fashion conglomerates, Gn has shows and during personal succeeded on several fronts. By sticking to an aesthetic centered appearances. “I like to see on luxurious embroideries and lush fabrics, he has carved out women desire my clothes,” a place on the crowded selling fl oor and is carried in 135 stores he said. “I’m not the type of around the world, including Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman designer who makes things and Nordstrom. Socialites such as Tamara Mellon, Becca Cason that need to be explained in Thrash and Lily Safra count Gn as their go-to guy. He attributes order to sell. I make clothes his success to an unwavering focus on high quality and an indi- that when a woman comes vidual approach that doesn’t pander to the trends. Rather, he said into the store and sees them he focuses on satisfying customers’ wardrobe needs. she says to herself, ‘I’ve got to “What I’m doing isn’t trendy,” he said of his clothes, which are have it.’” priced from around $1,500 for a blouse up to $40,000 for an evening Though his designs and tastes are rich, Gn is hardly stuffy or gown. “I’m like an ostrich. I do what I like and I follow my own way pretentious. He’s partial to jeans and T-shirts for himself. And it’s of doing things. That means that my product is very individualis- not uncommon to see the affable designer scouring an auction tic. A woman won’t go to a party and see fi ve other women wearing house on the weekend looking for a treasured fi nd. their dress. It’s very exclusive.” “For me, the auctions are like a ritual,” he said. “I get the weekly Gn, for example, develops all of his embroideries and fabrics listings on Friday and study them over the weekend. On Monday I in-house. He even creates his own buttons. “We try to produce col- have all the catalogues sent in and then I do bidding. It’s my drug.” lections that can’t be copied in 48 hours,” he said. “There’s so much fi nishing and After all, Gn said if he hadn’t become a fashion designer, he would have liked to be handiwork that goes into the clothes. My guiding principle is to be unique.” an art curator, a fact that helps to explain his love of intricately detailed clothes. Indeed, outside of fashion, Gn may be the only designer of his generation to nourish “I remember when I was young my mother had this Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld dress a passion for collecting rare porcelain and fi ne French furniture from the 18th century. with three-dimensional guitars on it,” he recalled. “It was like a piece of art. When I Design references in his clothes also are far from faddish, including Fortuny, Josef understood how that garment was made, I loved it even more. Hoffmann or 18th-century French naturalist Buffon, who inspired the prints in his “I love fashion,” he laughed. “It’s so fi ckle and exciting. You’re either in or out. I spring-summer 2008 collection. think that’s great.” Devon Fastens Ties With Galanos Love Dresses Up With More Options By Beth Wilson those that could be worn by a woman age 22 By Rosemary Feitelberg or age 62, size 2 or 12, and scrutinized her hen fresh-faced designer Lyn Devon construction, turning many items inside acquelyne Love’s husband Mike is a former Beach Boy, but she isn’t Wvisited Chicago earlier this month, she out. Devon said he told her, “‘I love this as Jabout to spend her life in bikini tops and jeans. And the California- sought not only to build her client base, but a jacket, but what about a dress?’ He said based designer doesn’t expect her customers to either. to solicit some fi rsthand advice from her more can be pulled out of the designs.” Having designed a more casual collection for a few years, Love has now newfound mentor, James Galanos. Chicagoans also appreciated Devon’s introduced a ready-to-wear line for spring. Before she went to work design- Introduced through a family friend, aesthetic, with a handful of women visit- ing it, Gloria Gelfand, who has taken on the role of Love’s director of mer- Devon, who won Fashion ing her trunk show on chandising, quizzed executives at Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman Group International’s Nov. 2 at a Park Hyatt about what they were looking for. Their advice was to come up with sophis- 2007 Rising Star award, Lyn Devon hotel suite. Overall, the ticated options made of interesting fabrics. Love has come up with plenty of and Galanos, one of with James designer gained 10 cli- options — 52 styles that wholesale America’s top design- Galanos. ents with must-haves between $165 and $799. ers who dressed Nancy including a navy double- The assortment’s range is de- An evening Reagan, among others, faced wool jacket with signed to give retailers more ver- look from had corresponded via cream insert for $1,195, satility when making their buys, Jacquelyne mail, with the elder de- and three styles of silk Gelfand said. Love. signer offering a critique color-blocked dresses in Special occasion items are a of Devon’s look books. shades of coral, cobalt major portion of the line in part The two met in Chicago, blue and navy with a bit because of the increasingly popu- where Milwaukee entre- of mint green ranging in lar 1 p.m. reception. Booking ho- preneur Peter Mahler price from $895 to $2,195. tels and catering halls for Friday hosted a private dinner for Devon, Galanos, Galanos also told Devon to be mindful and Saturday night receptions photographer Victor Skrebneski and oth- that “every step I take should be about ser- can be diffi cult, said Gelfand, dur- ers at the Pane Caldo restaurant just off vicing my clients or it’s not worth it,” said ing a preview of the collection at Michigan Avenue. Devon, who, despite receiving positive re- the company’s showroom at 214 “It’s the only letter writing relationship I’ve views from her fall and spring shows at New West 39th Street in New York. had since camp,” said the 28-year-old Devon, York Fashion Week this year, wondered “There will be 2.7 million who’s known for her streamlined artful looks, whether she will continue the practice. weddings this year in the U.S. ranging in price from $895 to $1,895 for most “A runway show for press is not a means and 685,000 bar mitzvahs and bat dresses and $1,095 to $2,195 for jackets. “It to that end,” Devon said. “I’m a small com- mitzvahs a year. More people are felt very old school. I’ve kept all of them.” pany and the people who buy my clothes dealing with that one o’clock re- In addition to tapping Galanos’ design come back regardless of whether there’s a ception. They want clothes that experience, Devon, who has worked at Zac show or no show. If a sponsor comes along, are not too fussed up,” she said. Posen and Ralph Lauren, wanted to learn I’ll do a show; if not, I’ll do a showroom.” First-season projected whole- more about his business practices. Devon sold her spring and fall 2006 col- sale volume is $500,000, with “He had a similar business with private lections strictly to private clients and began better specialty stores being the clients,” said Devon, who sells to about reaching out to retailers with her spring targeted market, Gelfand said. 200 customers living mostly in New York, 2007 collection, gaining an account with Made mostly of lightweight double-faced fabrics, the collection con- Boston, Greenwich, Conn., and Palm Beach, Louis Boston. Since then, she has worked sists of such items as a bubble dress, a tuxedo with wide-legged trousers, Fla., accounting for more than 50 percent to expand her client base, hoping to gain cropped jackets and two-piece cocktail ensembles. of her business. “It’s sort of unusual today. ground next year in San Francisco, Los Love has also designed the E Group by Jacquelyne Love collection made He knows how hard it is.” Angeles, Dallas and Seattle. of organic fabrics, which will make its debut this spring and will wholesale In turn, the pair discussed how to run Galanos, meanwhile, foresees further between $29 and $150. Geared more for contemporary departments, the a sample room and how to connect with success for Devon. “I just met her today, but line has already generated a good deal of interest among buyers, to a great buyers and clients. Galanos also singled I can tell you she will become very well- extent for its environmentally friendly appeal, Gelfand said. out her best-selling pieces, complimenting known,” the retired designer said. “There’s no question it’s something that is happening,” she said. RUNWAY PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; LOVE BY THOMAS IANNACCONE BY GIANNONI; LOVE GIOVANNI PHOTO BY RUNWAY WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 9 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report Filo Mixes Environment and Innovation Brands Widening Scope By Stephanie Epiro The Filo yarn fair drew 74 exhibitors. MILAN — Spring and summer col- Of Social Responsibility lections shown by exhibitors at last month’s Filo yarn fair sought to marry the environmental movement with By Ross Tucker the children were removed from technological innovation. the facility and entrusted to the Seventy-four exhibitors at the 28th NEW YORK — Speakers at Social Indian government. They will edition of the fair, held here Oct. 24 to Accountability International’s receive back pay for their work 25, offered a spate of technically savvy 10th annual conference here and wages until they reach a yarns, including enhanced eco-friend- last week stressed the need to legal working age. ly yarns and a dying technique to tint expand programs intended to Gap is also providing access polypropylene — previously consid- increase socially responsible be- to schooling and job training and ered by the industry impossible to dye. havior and empower workers. is ensuring that none of the prod- However, the buzz surrounding these Although the majority of ucts made at the facility reach latest innovations was overshadowed funding and attention is direct- store shelves. Having child re- by the bleak economic outlook as the ed to improving conditions at mediation clauses in its protocol dollar weakened against the euro. the factory level, companies are is something Henkle attributed “There’s been price increases in raw turning the spotlight on their directly to working with SAI and materials like wool and silk and that, own processes to examine their the Ethical Trade Initiative. combined with the devaluing of the dol- culpability in potential abuses. All aspects of the apparel in- lar and the yen, is causing the market “Together we face fearsome dustry have not faced the same to suffer,” said Stefano Botto Poala, of challenges in this complex inter- scrutiny, said Andrew Olah, Botto Poala. “We’ve had to increase our section of resource management, chief executive offi cer of Olah yarn prices by 10 to 15 percent.” worker empowerment, supply Inc., a U.S. agent for foreign con- Many spinners confi rmed slowing chain management, purchasing tract manufacturers and textile sales for 2007. practices and, of course, commu- and hardware vendors targeting “[Last year] was a brilliant season, nication with our consumers,” denim designers. Little attention but that will defi nitely not be confi rmed said Alice Tepper Marlin, presi- has been paid to the more than in 2007 because too many factors are dent of SAI, a nonprofi t organiza- seven million people working in affecting the close of the season,” said tion focusing on workers’ rights. textile mills across the globe. Sergio Blotto, chief executive offi cer of The foundation of SAI’s ef- “Recently I was told 94 textile PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY Cotonifi cio Roberto Ferrari. The warm forts has been SA8000, a set of mills have attained SA8000 certi- winter “left stores with large quantities of unsold mills already touted organic cottons in their col- standards that seeks to ensure fi cation,” Olah said. “Yet I have goods as well as liquidity problems that have a lections, many view summer as an opportunity workers’ rights and promote never been asked in 32 years to negative effect upstream on the chain. In addition, to offer advanced developments in eco-friendly safe working conditions. Marlin perform a social audit on any the dollar is penalizing exports.” yarns. Iafi l presented a wider offer of 17 colors said more than 700,000 workers textile factory. Worse, and most Cotonifi cio Roberto Ferrari is expected for its organic cotton. in 64 countries in 66 industries unfortunately, apparel compa- to close 2007 in line with 2006’s turn- Rigamonti said yarn producers are are under the SA8000 code. The nies do not seem to have fair tex- over of 25 million euros, or $36.6 Polyester at the tip of the iceberg of organic number of certifi cations is grow- tile buying policies in place.” million at current exchange. fabrics from dyeing. ing more than 35 percent a year, Robin Cornelius, ceo of The economic climate seems Mario Boselli. “Biological dyeing always primarily in factories located in Switcher, believes the best solu- to be shaking up the thinking produces a mélange-look yarn, India, China and Brazil. tion for preventing abuses is to of some of the decades-old, but this type of mottled effect A reminder of the importance allow consumers to see all the family-run Italian mills. Two in everyday yarns is consid- of having fully developed corpo- available information about a Biella-based mills have joined ered a defect,” Rigamonti rate social responsibility pro- product — from identifying the to create Marchi & Fildi. The said. “The challenge will be to grams came a week before the factory in which it was made to marriage between Filatura create perfectly dyed organic conference when it was discov- how it was delivered. Marchi Giovanni and Fildi yarns. On the other hand, it’s ered that an Indian facility mak- “Each product should have is considered a breakthrough so expensive to dye like this, it ing products for Gap Inc. was a DNA telling you everything in the Italian textile industry will be diffi cult to make progress using child labor. The disclosure about the product,” Cornelius where, historically, company ex- in such a niche market.” dominated the conference and said. “It justifi es the product for ecutives chose bankruptcy over alli- Cotonifi cio Roberto Ferrari pro- highlighted that even companies the consumer....The only way is ances with competitors. It is hoped the moted its biological mélange cottons in with codes of conduct and fully to prove that we have a trace- union will allow the company to ap- 15 hues, which Blotto said had been staffed compliance departments able system for the supply chain proach the global yarn market in a certifi ed organic from raw product are likely to face problems in a and each and every guy is re- more fl exible and aggressive way, to end yarn. global sourcing environment. sponsible for his step.” said Massimo Marchi, president “There’s no shortage of biolog- Dan Henkle, vice president of Filatura Marchi Giovanni. ically certifi ed mélange cottons of social responsibility at Gap, Marchi & Fildi’s combined on the market, but the trend is addressed the matter and cred- sales total 50 million euros, or toward counts that are increas- ited the company’s involvement $73.3 million, with annual pro- ingly fi ner with blends of dif- with organizations like SAI for duction capacity of 11 million ferent fi bers with fl amed and preparing it to quickly respond. kilos of yarn. Executives said Linen and cotton moiré fi nishes,” Blotto said. “It’s truly not an acceptable they expected the merger to yarns were spun At MarioBoselli Yarns, the situation,” Henkle said. “And just produce rapid sales growth. with an ultrafi ne focus was on natural-look, lab- to be crystal clear, under no cir- The economic outlook didn’t polyester at Iafi l. born yarns. Several years ago, cumstances is it acceptable for hold back the spinners’ creativity, the mill developed a polyester yarn children to be used in the pro- which fueled many new yarns for the with a shantung silk look and feel for duction of Gap’s products or for spring and summer. its home furnishing textile collection. any company’s products. That’s Interfi l unveiled a spool-dyed polypropylene, Now it has carried the yarn into its clothing cat- why we took swift action.” an innovation the spinner said was the fi rst of alogue for summer. Henkle said one of the com- its kind. Polypropylene, a popular yarn used in “Before, we sold it as a curtain fabric, but it pany’s vendors subcontracted sportswear garments, could only be dyed in vast can just as easily be used in clothing. Clients some work in violation of its quantities before it was spun. Interfi l’s patented are attracted to it because it’s washing machine agreement with Gap. Children dying technique allows the yarn to be tinted friendly, and it has all the characteristics of silk were found to be working in a after the spinning process. except that it’s a lot cheaper,” said ceo Carlo four-story building that Henkle “It’s innovative because before, customers Boselli. Many of the same customers had also characterized as a “makeshift were constricted to buying thousands of kilos of bought a crepe viscose-nylon-blend yarn that was embroidery facility.” He said the yarn in basic colors,” said Stefania Corbella, washable and had a export director of Interfi l. “Now we are able to soft hand feel. offer clients a real service of a rainbow of col- Botto Poala ors in smaller quantities.” Corbella also said the showed a polished- fi rm had recently opened a stock service divi- looking navy silk sion in Prato that promised same-day delivery crepe with a satin to its clients. touch, that was Iafi l showed linens and cottons that were spun with extreme- dyed with sorbet hues in stripes before the ly high tauten. THE TIGER COMPANIES spinning process. When woven into textiles Another wool, silk Tiger Button Co Inc - New York the fabric exhibited a wash of pale color. Ales and linen blend Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong Rigamonti, product manager of Iafi l, said the was also tightly Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. yarns had already received interest from high- twisted so as to Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands end shirting fabric manufacturers. not exhibit any of Tiger Trimming Inc - New York Environmentally friendly yarns were a prom- linen’s raw, fi brous inent feature of many mills’ offerings. While qualities. Tel: (212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] 10 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM Physicians Formula’s Cardin’s Desert Adventure By Robert Murphy Cardin, who operates four theaters in Paris, said 100 models, both men and women, were used to PARIS — Fendi may have staged an impressive show his most recent designs for his Chinese licens- Profi ts Take Hit in Qtr. runway show on the Great Wall of China a few ing partners, of which there are about 50. weeks ago, but Pierre Cardin —the godfather of “It started at 5:30 in the afternoon,” said Cardin. NEW YORK — Physicians Formula Holdings Inc. reported Space Age chic — has no reason for envy. “You could see the sun setting and the moon rising Monday that its net income declined to $102,000, or a penny a After all, during the same weekend Cardin at the same time. At fi rst, you didn’t see the mod- diluted share — dragged down by an aftertax, noncash charge staged his own Chinese shindig: a spectacular els. They then emerged, approaching from a dis- tied to stock-based compensation — from $223,000, or 2 cents a outdoor fashion show on a thin, white podium tance, like a caravan. share, in the year-ago period. winding through the dunes of “The bride appeared riding Third-quarter earnings were helped, in part, by a shift in the Gobi Desert at Dunhuang. on a camel. At my age, to still promotional spending and additional expenses tied to the The main difference? Cardin be able to do this type of thing fi rm’s upcoming launch of its said he “forgot” to invite the — well, it’s special.” Organic Wear cosmetics line to international press. Cardin said he regretted the fourth quarter. “I’ve been on a lot of voyag- not inviting press from out- Boosted by its expanding es,” the designer said in his of- side China. “That was a mis- Mineral Wear cosmetics fran- fi ce here Tuesday. “But this one take,” he admitted. “I don’t chise and offset somewhat by was very special for me. The know why, but the thought declines in eye makeup sales, light and the emptiness and the never crossed my mind.” the mass market beauty fi rm’s color of the sand against the Meanwhile, Cardin, who net sales gained 9.5 percent to blue sky — it was like showing oversees an empire of some $19.8 million, from $18.1 mil- fashion on the edge of infi nity.” 900 licensed products and the lion in the year-earlier period. Cardin, ever chipper at 85, Maxim’s restaurant venture, For the nine-month stretch, explained the show, attended said he continues to shop his net income declined to $3.9 by scores of local journalists business around. He conceded million, or 27 cents a diluted and personalities, was designed the hitch was his asking price: Ingrid Jackel, chief share, from $4.3 million, or 37 as a prelude to a musical pro- 1 billion euros, or $1.45 billion. executive offi cer of cents, on sales that gained 12.7 duction Chinese offi cials have “You don’t come up with that Physicians Formula. percent to $77.6 million, from invited him to stage in Beijing type of cash easily,” he said. $68.9 million, in the year-ago in advance of the Olympic “I’m in very advanced talks. It period. Games next summer. The musi- will probably be a consortium The fi rm raised the lower end of its net sales outlook for the cal’s subject will be Marco Polo, A look from Cardin’s fashion show in the [of investors]. I want profession- fi scal year ending Dec. 31 to $108 million, from the previously a fi gure Cardin said always has Gobi Desert. als to run my business. That’s stated $107 million. It now expects full-year net sales to fall in been close to his heart. my dream. I’ve been running the $108 million to $111 million range. The company reiterated “Marco Polo was an adventurer,” said the de- everything for so many years. I sign every check.” that in fi scal 2008, it anticipates growth will come from the in- signer. “I like that mind-set. Modern sports stars Still, Cardin, who has claimed to be in serious troduction of its Organic Wear line, the expansion of its Mineral are adventurers in their own right, too. Marco talks with potential buyers several times in the past, Wear franchise and the retooling of its eye makeup category, Polo is a perfect subject for the Olympics.” said he’s not complaining. “My love is fashion,” he an effort that will include new products. The company plans to Marie-Claude Pietragalla’s troupe of contempo- said. “I go up to the atelier every day and design introduce 50 to 100 new items in the fi rst quarter of 2008. The rary dancers will headline the production, which dresses. That’s what pleases me most.” products will begin shipping in December. Cardin said already has been booked for a tour of He also enjoys taking care of his vast web of — Molly Prior China, Taiwan, Japan and Russia. licenses. The most recent? Small plastic cubes of “It’s the biggest production I’ve done in 40 Maxim’s branded mineral water. “They are meant Symrise Sets Up Personal Care Classification years,” he said, peering over his square, black spec- to be frozen as ice cubes,” he explained. “There are PARIS — Symrise is adding another branch to its fragrance tacles. “We wanted the fashion show to play on the new regulations coming that servers in restaurants family tree. musical. So we staged it in the desert along the Silk and bars can’t pick up ice cubes with their hands. The Holzminden, Germany-based fragrance and fl avors fi rm Road at a place where Marco Polo traveled.” It’s unhygienic or something. I’m thinking ahead.” has developed what it claims is the fi rst personal care geneal- ogy. It classes key hair products, body washes, antiperspirants and deodorants in Europe and the U.S. Jones: Never Too Many Cooks in the Kitchen by scent using a sys- tem similar to its fi ne udith Jones, like many of the au- up reading the French version Judith Jones fragrance genealogy BEAUTY BEAT Jthors in her decades-long pub- of the book, she insisted he do published last year. lishing career, has a story to tell. the same. Her fortitude resulted Each item is classifi ed by fragrance family, like “fl oriental”; Jones, vice president and in the diary’s publication in the subfamily, such as “aldeydic,” plus a descriptor like “powdery.” senior editor at Knopf, discov- U.S. and the widespread dissem- The personal care version includes two families that don’t exist ered Julia Child, made the de- ination of the poignant, endur- in fi ne fragrances: “mint” and “edible.” cision that helped ensure the ing words of its young author. “It’s a visual dictionary,” said Roberto Ascoli, vice president American edition of “The Diary “What you learn and have of Symrise’s scent and care division. of Anne Frank,” befriended to learn is how to trust your in- The genealogy lists trendsetting fi ne fragrances, the 30 best- M.F.K. Fisher, edited transla- stincts,’’ she said. “I think that selling personal care products in the U.S. and Europe com- tions of writers such as Albert was just marvelous.” bined, plus the 30 top-selling items for those regions separately, Camus and Jean-Paul Sartre and Memories of that pe- together with 2006 launches. for years has edited the highly riod of her life — letters The tool can be personalized for the fi rm’s 20 to 30 major hands-on John Updike. she had written to her personal care clients. Then there have been her mother from Paris after

“We will prepare a chart featuring adventures outside the offi ce, World War II — provid- OF KNOPF PHOTO COURTESY all of a customers’ brands, plus their which provide material for her ed the impetus for her competitors,” Ascoli explained. new memoir “The Tenth Muse: memoir. Astonished by can be this very By assessing their portfolio against My Life in Food,” published by how brash, manipulative sensual pleasure. other brands’ products, companies Knopf. and assertive she sound- Be that as it may, I can detect potential niches by zone, by There was the restaurant she ed, Jones, who returned to think I resisted being country or by target consumer, added helped start in the Paris apart- New York in 1955 and joined proper, going to the right Isabelle Vacheret, vice president ment of a friend’s relative, and Knopf in 1957, decided to revisit schools, going to the right danc- of global beauty care marketing for more recently her stay at an those days. es and all that,” she said. “My Symrise’s beauty care creative center. Israeli kibbutz that was close Her culinary pursuits in Paris English mother was class-con- The tool can also be used to pre- enough to the Lebanese border to stayed with her. Warm baguettes, scious. She would have liked me dict future trends, said Ascoli. For hear the rumble of gunfi re. puffy omelettes, homemade paté to marry a stockbroker.” instance, the chart shows fruity notes Still, cooking and food “is the and, of course, wine were part Evan Jones, the man Jones are increasingly replacing fougere pleasure that lasts the longest of the city’s allure. Recalling did marry in 1951 and with whom scents for men’s hair care. when the others have dimin- how a baker broke open a fresh she shared her literary and culi- The genealogy enables users to de- ished,’’ Jones said in an interview. baguette after World War II, “I nary pursuits until his death in Symrise is classifying termine fragrance trends within geo- Her involvement with Anne remember how cheers went up 1996, was set in a different cast. personal care scents. graphical zones, too. In Europe, for Frank’s famed diary occurred in the whole boulangerie, when An old school newspaperman example, more than 60 percent of shower gels are categorized as when Jones was working as an the baguette was broken and it who stood at a typewriter, he “fl oral aldehydic.” Meanwhile, “water fruit” notes like melon are assistant in Doubleday’s Paris was white — because they had was straightforward and direct. popular in the U.S., whereas in Europe consumers prefer “edible” offi ce. She had been instructed been dirty all through the occu- They met when he was editor of notes as found in a product like Le Petit Marseillais Almond Milk. to write rejection letters for a pation,’’ she recalled. “I’m about Weekend magazine in Paris, but Symrise is also planning a household product fragrance ge- pile of submissions. But Jones in tears thinking of that.” the bulk of his career was spent nealogy. was intrigued by the cover of Readers can try pages of reci- as a freelance food writer. “He After reopening its perfumery center in March, the fi rm an- one of them. “I couldn’t write pes for Jones’ dishes such as spa- really was such a force in saying, nounced it has introduced an ongoing training system to include a rejection letter for a book I ghetti and cheese, “Frenchifi ed’’ ‘Just do it,’” she said. all its perfumers. Next month, senior noses like Maurice Roucel hadn’t read, especially with that meat loaf, frozen maple mousse And so she continues to do will travel to India for an intensive 10-day fragrance expedition face on the cover.” The face be- and hermit cookies. that, which often means cook- to help develop creative and technical expertise there. longed to Anne Frank. Jones said her culinary pur- ing. “People who enjoy food — Ellen Groves When her boss returned suits were a way of fi nding her- enjoy life.” hours later to fi nd her curled self. “I like to think that cooking — Rosemary Feitelberg WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 11 WWD.COM In Transit Study Connects Ship Emissions to Illnesses By Ross Tucker are predicted to grow by more than 70 percent over the al standards for ballast water management and ways to next 15 years with the expansion of global trade, our prevent “aquatic invasive species,” or the introduction new study from the American Chemical Society has members believe it is imperative to take a strong stand of non-native marine life into domestic waters. Martino A linked ship emissions to thousands of deaths glob- on this issue,” Susan Monteverde, vice president of gov- pointed to the Zebra mussel as one such example. The ally and is increasing pressure on ports to alter their ernment relations, said in a statement. mussel is widely believed to have been introduced into environmental policies. Meredith Martino, manager of government relations the Great Lakes through foreign ships and the mussels The study, posted last week on the ACS’s and environmental policy for the association, said it ad- caused considerable environmental damage. Environmental Science & Technology Web site, found vocates treaty standards set by the International Maritime “The maritime industry is fully aware of its responsibil- that ships emit an estimated 1.2 million to 1.6 million ity to mitigate the environmental impact of global trade,” metric tons of particulate matter annually. The bulk of said Mike Zampa, a spokesman for ocean carrier APL. those emissions, 70 percent, occur within 250 miles of The bulk of ship APL has launched initiatives to lower its impact. In land, the report said. This particulate load already is emissions occur within December 2006, the company said 23 of its ships docked a signifi cant contributing factor in the deaths of 60,000 250 miles of land. at California ports would convert to burning low-sulfur people annually. As global trade levels rise, the toll is fuel in port. In March it said the same would be done for expected to increase as much as 40 percent, or about APL vessels at the Port of Seattle. 84,000, annually by 2012. The study cited heart disease Zampa said the industry is also taking another look and lung cancer as the two most common causes of at cold-ironing, which is when a ship shuts its diesel- death among those living near coastal areas. powered generators in port in favor of connecting to The issue of ship emissions has been gaining momen- an onshore electrical supply. APL said technological tum on an international scale. However, the report said advancements make cold-ironing more feasible than it efforts to reduce emissions are being made without a has been in years past. APL began testing a cold-iron- full understanding of the problem and are fragmented ing process in June, estimating that the process would in their approach. eliminate 1,000 pounds of nitrogen oxides, 70 pounds of “Emissions from international ships are increasingly sulfur oxides and 15 pounds of particulate matter in just a focus for proposed regulation in local, national and in- 24 hours. The process would also be much cheaper than ternational arenas,” according to the study. However, pre- anticipated. The cost for retrofi tting vessels for cold- vious studies have focused primarily on coastal areas in ironing is estimated at $225,000, which APL said is dras- Europe and the western U.S. The lack of a full global pic- Organization. A section of the treaty relates specifi cally to tically less than industry projections of $1.5 million. ture on the impact of emissions could hinder the develop- ship emissions and has yet to be ratifi ed by the U.S. APL’s most recent suggestion to curb its impact is per- ment of an effective international policy, the report said. “We would just like to see the treaty implemented as haps its simplest — bigger boxes. The company is intro- Days after the study was released, the American quickly as possible,” Martino said. ducing the fi rst 53-foot shipping containers. Twenty- and Association of Port Authorities said it planned to set The issue is one of scale. The huge size of cargo ship 40-foot containers are generally regarded as industry tougher standards for foreign and domestic ships. The as- engines makes it more diffi cult to retrofi t or replace them. standards. The 53-foot container has been a standard sociation is recommending that new engines make a 15 They’ve also been designed to have a long lifetime. feature in the U.S. but has not been used for interna- percent reduction in emissions of nitrogen oxides while “When you’re talking about vessels it’s not as easy, tional ocean carrying. The boxes have 60 percent more phasing in 20 percent reductions on so-called legacy en- there’s not as many options,” Martino said. “They have capacity than 40-foot containers, and two 53-foot con- gines, those built before January 2000. However, the group an even longer life span [than trucks]. The expense of tainers carry the equivalent of three 40-foot containers. is asking that the standards not be imposed until 2011. putting in a retrofi t is even greater.” Fewer containers translates into fewer moves having to “Considering that emissions from ocean-going ships Beyond air quality, the association is seeking nation- be made and, hopefully, less energy used in the process.

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© Crowley Maritime Corporation, 2006 CROWLEY is a registered trademark of Crowley Maritime Corporation Speed to Market is a service mark of Crowley Maritime Corporation 12 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM TSM Capital Invests in Rachel Roy

Continued from page one several months ago through some acquaintances in the making creative as well as long-term decisions,” Roy fashion industry. Rachel said Monday. “We took some time to really get to know the brand Roy and “It’s expanding the brand and building it into some- and the management team and do our due diligence,” one thing I wouldn’t be able to do on my own because funds Magnusdottir said. “Both sides felt there was a good fi t, of her wouldn’t have come as quickly,” she added. and a good working relationship. They feel we can add designs. Roy made a name for herself not just as the wife of value strategically and in terms of relationships.” hip-hop and urban clothing impresario Damon Dash, Magnusdottir added that Roy was “extraordinarily but also with her feminine, romantic clothes designed talented, charming and a wonderful person,” and laud- for women like herself. She and her husband are active- ed her management team, particularly Marianne Tesler, ly involved in New York’s social circuit, and Roy is often Givenchy’s former president who is chief executive of- photographed wearing her own designs. fi cer of Rachel Roy, and Walter Price, who is the com- A California native, Roy joined Rocawear fresh pany’s chief fi nancial offi cer, and was previously cfo of out of college. She rose to become creative director of Givenchy’s U.S. division. Rocawear women’s and children’s lines, and met her fu- “She is really only in her second year as a designer ture husband there. While at Rocawear, she launched brand, and we felt she has achieved a great distribution her own label in 2004 and quickly caught the attention and great brand recognition within a very short period of stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Big Drop with of time,” Magnusdottir said. “They have primarily fo- beaded tops and shrunken blazers and miniskirts. cused on the American market so far, so there’s a lot of When she and Dash left Rocawear in 2005, they re- growth potential internationally.” tained ownership of Roy’s business. The collection In addition, TSM Capital saw the was initially launched as a contemporary line, but Roy potential to extend Roy’s label into changed tiers last year and turned it into a young de- other product categories, including signer line, which included stepping up price points by accessories and fragrance categories. about 40 percent. “We think over time, she can build The company has its own sample room in New York, a successful licensing business,” said and most of the garments are made in the U.S. Magnusdottir, who will join the board Roy’s label is now carried in over 100 doors, includ- of Rachel Roy Fashions alongside ing Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Roy and Tesler. “We will start meeting Marcus and Nordstrom as well as specialty boutiques with potential license partners but we like Intermix here, Mitchells in Westport, Conn., Marissa want to do that in a careful way. We Collections in Naples, Fla., and Aura in Santa Monica, want to meet with the leading players Calif. She also has small distribution overseas in stores and carefully negotiate the best deals such as Villa Moda in Kuwait and Tsum in Moscow. for the brand.” Roy is TSM Capital’s second investment. The com- Traub said that Roy is “anxious at pany kicked into gear last August when it acquired a some point to do a second line at bet- ate a foundation for the multiple categories she 22 percent stake in London-based designer Matthew ter prices.” anticipates to launch. “I personally like accesso- Williamson’s company. As for international growth, ries, and I love children’s clothing,” said Roy, who TSM Capital’s mission is to invest in designer busi- Magnusdottir said that TSM Capital has a daughter and is currently expecting another nesses, brands and retailers in the early stages of their has strong relationships in markets child. “I don’t know how soon children’s would be companies, with revenues of between $5 million and $50 like Russia, the Middle East, Greece on our horizon. I have designed it before and it’s million. In August, the trio involved in the investment and Turkey. something I’d love to do.” fi rm said they aimed to build a portfolio of up to 10 busi- “Rachel is half-Indian, and India Opening her own boutiques, she added, will nesses over the next three years. is a market that is experiencing huge help stores see how she likes to merchandise her “She [Roy] meets all of our criteria,” Traub said. “She is growth in the luxury market,” she categories together. an emerging talent, has a strong management team, global said. “We see India as a market for A look from All parties involved declined to comment on the potential and we believe the brand can be rolled out.” Rachel in the future.” Rachel Roy’s spring size of the stake or the sales volume of Rachel Roy. In common with many smaller designers, Roy has Traub added, “We also believe presentation. Tesler confi rmed TSM Capital has taken a minor- been looking for additional funding for some time. there is potential for our own retail ity stake, adding, however, that it was “signifi cant.” Magnusdottir, who serves as TSM Capital’s managing here. The way TSM works, when we invest, we work She declined to reveal the exact percentage. director, explained the designer came to their attention closely with the management on helping to build the Sources estimated Rachel Roy’s wholesale volume brand. We do our business plan for the retail, help with at about $10 million, with a growth potential of up to locations and the strategy for the fi rst store and future $100 million. stores.” TSM Capital is not working with a partner on this ac- Traub noted a fi rst site has been singled out, but quisition. remained tight-lipped as to its location. Roy is said to “They bring a wealth of experience in fashion, retail be looking at a unit at the Plaza here. Tesler said she and in upscale brands,” Tesler said. “To have partners envisions the fi rst two stores opening in New York and who can bring their international expertise, and their Los Angeles. relationships with retail and other categories like ac- Roy said she asked herself several questions to deter- cessories and jewelry...facilitates your work. It’s also mine whether TSM Capital was the right partner for her. always nice when you work to have someone with whom “‘Do they like the aesthetic of the clothing?” she said. you speak the same language.” “Do they like the story that is me, and that I am trying As for her husband, Damon Dash, Roy said, “He has to build the brand on? Is there anything there that is worked so hard, and he has supported me from the Aslaug Magnusdottir, Marvin authentic and real and that builds into how can we work very beginning when things didn’t look quite as bright. Traub and Mortimer Singer. together? It’s a simple basis.” It takes someone who believes in you, sometimes more Roy hopes to build a strong internal structure to cre- than you believe in yourself.”

director Robyn Nevin, art director Catherine Martin, Ian Thorpe and actors David Wenham, Jacqueline McKenzie and Justine Clarke. Armani in the Land Down Under But the STC dinner wasn’t the only thing Armani got up to in Sydney. Afterward, he checked out the city’s latest nightclub, Trademark. Earlier in the day, he had popped By Patty Huntington into his Australian fl agship in Martin Place to meet 100 of his VIP Sydney customers, before lunching at hip restaurant Est and visiting his concept SYDNEY, Australia — Talk about a weekend getaway. boutiques inside department store David Jones. Tacked onto last week’s launch of his new Tokyo mega-boutique, On Saturday morning, the designer headed to Maroubra Beach to meet Giorgio Armani has just wrapped a whistle-stop, 48-hour Sydney side up with another friend, Russell Crowe, and half the South Sydney Leagues trip, his fi rst-ever visit to Australia. And heads are still spinning. Club football (rugby) team, aka the Rabbitohs, which Crowe now co-owns. The trip revolved around a meet-and-greet dinner designed to Armani dressed both Crowe and his bride, Danielle Spencer, for their 2003 honor Armani’s new commitment to the Sydney Theatre Company. wedding, and recently designed the off-fi eld uniforms for Crowe’s team In what is being touted as the biggest single fi nancial donation to an — which was dubbed “the Armani army” in a recent local documentary. Australian theatrical institution, Armani is the company’s new pa- Then it was back to Bondi for coffee and juices at celebrated eatery tron — a connection that comes courtesy of unoffi cial Armani ambas- Icebergs and to Woolloomoolloo’s Finger Wharf for lunch at Crowe’s water- sador Cate Blanchett, who is due to take up the artistic reins of the Giorgio Armani and front apartment. From the wharf Armani was then whisked off by James and STC in January, together with scriptwriter husband Andrew Upton. Russell Crowe Erica Packer, Australia’s richest man and his new bride, for a Sydney Harbour “Cate enjoys my aesthetic and over the years I have known her cruise aboard their private yacht. has chosen to wear my designs for various red-carpet events,” Armani said. “That Armani then squeezed in a walking tour of the Sydney Opera House and The Rocks, loyalty is important to me and has encouraged me to reciprocate in offering my before heading to Paddington restaurant Buon Ricordo, on Blanchett’s advice. support to the Sydney Theatre Company. It is about friendship and respect for each He left Sydney on Sunday morning, laden with Rabbitohs’ footballs, caps, jer- other’s work more than anything.” seys, bunny mascots and an Aboriginal Yawkyawk water spirit sculpture — a gift Held at The Wharf restaurant on Walsh Bay’s Pier 4, the STC’s harborside home, from the Armani team in Australia. Friday night’s black-tie dinner for 200 was attended by a swag of Sydney luminaries “I have been overwhelmed by my visit to Sydney — a sophisticated but incredibly who gave the designer a standing ovation after his speech in Italian, translated by relaxed city,” he said. “It has been a longtime dream to visit this wonderful country and niece Roberta Armani. Those luminaries included the company’s outgoing artistic I hope to come back in the near future to visit the theater and watch a rugby game!” WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 13 WWD.COM Youth Is Served: Russian Brand Eyes U.S. Push

By Sharon Edelson and Peter Savodnik A Kira Plastinina Style Studio. ira Plastinina Style, one of the fastest-growing fashion Kbrands in Russia, is something of a phenomenon, not simply because its sweetly sexy styles are selling briskly, but because the face behind the label is a 15-year-old girl. Plastinina’s father, Sergey Plastinin, director of Wimm-Bill-Dann Foods ADS, Russia’s largest dairy and fruit producer, is bankrolling the business, which was unveiled in March. Now, seven months later, there are 28 stores in Russia, including 15 in Moscow, and two in Ukraine. By January, 40 stores are expected. Plastinin said in an interview in New York that Kira Plastinina will do over $20 million this year. Like many girls her age in Moscow, Kira has been weaned on a diet of global popular culture. She loves Paris Hilton and the Olsen twins, Italian craftsman- ship and the color hot pink. Hilton last month made an appearance at Kira Plastinina’s runway show during Moscow Fashion Week. Now, Plastinina is poised to join Hilton and the Olsens as she competes for U.S. consumer dollars. Her fi rst 10 stores are slated to bow in the fi rst half of 2008, quickly ramping up to 50 units. The company, which is seeking major locations in New York and Los Angeles, is targeting sales of $1,000 per square foot. In addition to street locations averaging about 4,000 square feet, Plastinin said the company will open 1,500- square-foot to 2,500-square-foot units in A-malls. The target audience for the line is between ages 13 and 23, with 20-year-olds accounting for the majority of customers, Plastinin said. “It’s a collection of clothes for 15-year-olds by a person of the same age,” he said. The clothes are not for shrinking violets. A short red jump- suit tied around the waist with a giant pink ribbon looks Prices for Kira Plastinina in Russia average $50, like a gift that fell off Santa’s sleigh. A one-sleeved tur- Plastinin said, noting price points for the U.S. have yet quoise top has a cutout on the remaining sleeve for the to be determined, but will likely be lower due to the ab- shoulder to peek through. There are long pink ombré sence of value added tax and customs duties. gowns covered with graduated bows and bubble halter Whether American audiences respond to Kira dresses with large fl owers on the neck. Accessories, Plastinina remains to be seen. But Plastinin is taking no handbags, belts and shoes round out the line, which is chances. He’s hired Directives West, a consulting fi rm, refreshed every two weeks. to “help us select the items and models most suitable for Plastinina designed the bottle for a Fermenich-devel- the U.S. market,” he said. “Their most signifi cant com- oped fragrance called, of course, Kira. ment was, ‘Make the [line] even more casual.’” Plastinin said basics make up more than half the The brand will resonate with U.S. teens because Kira’s line. “The basic collection is far less glamorous,” he lifestyle is very similar to those of her American peers, said, noting that bestsellers and a denim collection are her father said. She’s enrolled in the Anglo-American included in the category. School in Moscow and most of her friends are American. The label appears to be part of the ongoing devel- “To some degree she’s more a product of the American opment of Russia’s middle-tier apparel market, which culture than the Russian culture,” Plastinin said. took off after the 1998 fi nancial collapse and has gained On a recent afternoon, Platinina arrived at her 11th- ground as an upper middle class has begun to take fl oor offi ces overlooking the Moscow River, bodyguards shape and massive shopping malls have popped up in in tow. She said balancing school and work is tough. Moscow, St. Petersburg and elsewhere in the country. She’s in class from 8 a.m. until nearly 4 p.m., then goes to work. Moscow’s notorious traffi c gives her more time to do her homework in the car. She often doesn’t get home until 9 or 10 p.m. This year she’s preparing for the International Baccalaureate exam, which is 12 months away. She also has her gig as the chief designer for the television show “Fabrika Zvezd” (based on “American Idol”), goes horseback riding and is tutored in French and Russian on Saturdays. The Kira Plastinina girl wants to fl aunt her assets. She wants to look pretty, not edgy or punky or Goth. “The teen customer is aspirational,” Plastinin said. “It’s youthful and fun and about being a girl. It’s not about rebelling. Kira is still a girl.” But is it fair to call Kira Plastinina a designer? While Paris Hilton and Kira Plastinina at the Kira Plastinina Style she’s rumored to be no more than the public face of the presentation in Moscow. label, she insists she’s involved in the whole design pro- cess. “I participate in everything,” Plastinina said, add- and stools near the cash wrap and signature elements ing she wants to study design at Central Saint Martins such as large round red poufs, chandeliers and stain- College of Art and Design in London. less steel fi xtures. Mirrors and glass are given various Her talent at drawing became evident “when she was uses throughout the stores, the cream-colored walls and quite young,” her father said, “but at fi rst she didn’t take fl oors of which are a counterpoint to the bright color. it seriously. I never developed or encouraged this. Then JGA, a retail design and brand strategy fi rm, is adapt- she continued from six years of age, on and on.” ing the look for the U.S. Explaining her process, Plastinina said she draws Marvin Traub, president of Marvin Traub Associates, something — a dress, a skirt, a pair of shoes — and gives who is helping Plastinin bring the brand to the U.S., it to one of the fi ve assistant designers at Kira Plastinina said, “I was in Moscow for the Ralph Lauren launch [of Style. “They never say they don’t like something, but two stores in mid-May] and the Kira Plastinina store sometimes they want to change something because of looked to me like what one would fi nd in the U.S. It has the construction,” she said. a feel like Juicy Couture, only it’s more girly.” Designers she admires include Vivienne Westwood, The Russian media have been fascinated with Kira Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. She also since she emerged on the fashion scene. Plastinin, who loves Victoria Beckham’s style and said she was seems to have mastered the media game, said he’ll make “amazed” by Hilton. The two had dinner together at his daughter available to American journalists during Turandot, one of Moscow’s finest restaurants, just the launch, adding, “We’re planning to have a very active around the corner from Pushkin Square, following public relations and advertising program. We’re build- Plastinina’s fashion week presentation. ing it around Kira as the designer and personality. She’ll Sometimes, it seems that Plastinina is as surprised come and do a presentation of the line for editors. by her success as others. “I see girls on the street wear- “If we’re successful in the U.S., I have dreams ing my clothes and I want to hug them,” she says. of going to Japan and China at the end of next year,” So far, Plastinina has refrained from incorporating Plastinin said. Sounding as if his daughter’s talent might traditional Russian elements into her collections, opting dissipate as she gets older, he added, “We just need to Kira Plastinina stores are designed for a more modern approach. Her stores, called Style move fast. When we started this, Kira was 14. She just to be fun and easy to shop. Studios, are designed in the same vein with counters turned 15.” 14 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM

ROUND ’EM UP: The December issue of Maxim will introduce someone old and something new. Albert “A.J.” Baime, who worked with editorial director Jim Kaminsky at Maxim in the MEMO PAD late Nineties, will return as an executive editor. Baime was articles editor at Playboy for four years and before that was executive editor at Boston magazine. Baime will replace Michael Dolan, who resigned and left the magazine after closing the December issue, which includes a new look, new sections and more mature humor. And for those wondering what Kaminsky did in between stints at Maxim, he explains his jobs at Playboy, Rolling Stone and Men’s Journal in the issue’s editor’s letter, his fi rst since his return. “…I left for a time and wandered,” he wrote. “I ran a nostalgia-drenched ‘adult’ mag owned by a septuagenarian in a mansion; I worked at a renowned rock/politico book and then at a monthly obsessed with adventure and shirtless men.” Kaminsky’s critiques of his former Wenner stomping grounds were gentler than Jann Wenner’s comments about his former employee to BusinessWeek’s Jon Fine earlier this month: “I’m glad he left,” he said bluntly of Kaminsky’s decision to leave Men’s Journal after only seven months. — Stephanie D. Smith

GOOFING OFF: Hollywood insider Jason Schwartzman is an Outsider now. Fresh from promoting his latest fi lm, “The Darjeeling Limited,” the quirky actor can now be seen modeling L.A. brand Band of Outsiders. Band founder and designer Scott Sternberg explained that after Schwartzman wore a Band of Outsiders tuxedo at the London premiere of “Darjeeling,” he asked the actor to model his holiday collection for the fashion brand’s Web site and look book. “Jason said ‘Yes,’ with no celebrity bulls--t,” recalled Sternberg, one of this year’s nominees for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, the winners of which will be revealed Thursday night at 7th on Sale. Sternberg based the capsule collection on the Robert Redford fi lm “Downhill Racer” and shot the mini campaign at a Hollywood prop house, where Schwartzman made good use of such stylish junk as deer antlers and ski boots, as well as a real bulldog named Arrow. “It was just like, ‘Jason, goof off,’” Sternberg said, “and he’d grab a prop and act like a goof. That was the day — tons of fun.” — Kevin West

Jason Schwartzman in the WOMEN, THEN MEN: Can a sales rep who spent 13 Band of Outsiders ad. years at Interview selling ad pages to high-end fashion brands switch gears to hawk pages to Puma and Speedo? Apparently not. Victoria Fuller, who joined Women’s Health in August, has left the magazine to take the same job at Men’s Vogue. Fuller served as vice president/associate publisher of Interview and was fashion director at both Vanity Fair and Esquire before jumping to Women’s Health, but sources close to the magazine say her luxury background was too highbrow for the Rodale monthly. At Men’s Vogue, she replaces David Miller, who moved to The New Yorker as associate publisher. — S.D.S.

SPLITTING HEIRS: While the British press went hog wild with coverage when Prince William dumped Kate Middleton last spring, they have been a little more subdued when it comes to the love trials of Prince Harry and longtime girlfriend Chelsy Davy. On Sunday, news broke in the News of the World, Sunday Mirror, and Mail on Sunday that Davy — craving her privacy and fed up with the Harry’s partying antics — had dumped him, but the reporting was straightforward and lacking nasty asides. “Prince Harry has been ditched by girlfriend,” the News of the World led with, saying the “pretty blonde” had also grown tired of Harry’s “boozy, playboy lifestyle,” and had been upset by his decision to attend the Rugby World Cup Final instead of her 22nd birthday celebrations. At the same time, the Sunday Mirror tracked the prince’s subsequent alleged $4,000 booze binge in a London nightclub. Unlike the William/Kate split, where snide columns about Middleton’s breeding and middle-class background appeared, the focus of venom — if any — lay with Harry’s partying lifestyle and womanizing ways. — Lucie Greene Karen Harvey Offers Help to Abused Women or Karen Harvey, president of the Karen FHarvey Consulting Group, the last year has been special. She has organized Women in Need: The Blue Project to help abused and disadvantaged women get a shot at reentering the workforce. “It’s been a way to combine our training and development and executive search services with helping disadvantaged women recover their self- esteem,” said Harvey at a party Thursday at her Union Square offi ce in New York celebrating the fi rst anniversary of the project and its fi rst fi ve graduates: Maublette Hill, Leonora Tracey, Camille Brown, Kindra McMillian and Launa Anderson. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Harvey said the fi ve women took a class a Clockwise from left: Karen Harvey; Blue Project month for 12 months and that the program might graduates Kindra McMillan, Leonora Tracey and Camille be intensifi ed. “These are women who moved up Brown; Bonnie Stone, WIN ceo; Charlotte Prince; from shelters to supported housing and were care- MaKayla Tracey, Dishana and Delena Brown. fully screened to participate in this pilot program,” Harvey said. “We had sessions on self-esteem, ré- 2,500 women and children every night in the fi ve sumé writing and interviewing, and [representa- New York boroughs and provides roughly $1,200 tives] from Nike and Claiborne participated.” So to $1,400 a year to help the women pay telephone far, “two of the fi ve women landed concrete jobs.” bills and meet other expenses so they can main- Brown was a victim of domestic violence, but tain their housing. “It could be the difference be- left Houston and relocated to the Bronx with tween making it or not making it,” Prince said of her four kids. “After going through that experi- the fi nancial support. “Homeless families are dra- ence, it really diminishes you. You really feel matically on the rise this year for lots of reasons. like nothing,” Brown confi ded. She said she was Real estate is expensive and subsidy programs out of work for two years, but The Blue Project are in fl ux. We need to raise over $4.5 million a helped restore her confi dence and poise and year through private contributions to provide was instrumental in her securing a job at the quality programs.” Universal Survey Center, where she conducts About 100 fashion industry fi gures, including surveys over the phone. Isaac Mizrahi, Charles Nolan, Jeffry Aronsson, “Project Blue really helps women who don’t Amsala, Nicole Fischelis, Brian Reyes, Cynthia have jobs or the confi dence to get them, and Steffe and Stan Tucker, attended the party, which coaches them on skills to go out and fi nd jobs,” was cohosted by Stephanie George, corporate ex- said Charlotte Prince, board chair, WIN. ecutive vice president of Time Warner. Aside from The Blue Project, WIN houses over — David Moin WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Salary and commission. Go to fashioncareers.com for jobs like these and hundreds of overseas offices, & designers. Manage Please E-mail resume and salary history Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. production from inception of samples to: [email protected] Any Style other opportunities. to shipping. Travel overseas & domestic. Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 Email:[email protected] Seeking New Apparel Lines SALESPERSON Independent Sales Reps PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTION Fast paced watch importer seeks a "We sell your line Nationwide" Salesperson with Accessories exp. Please call Ervin 702-673-5825 ext. #4 PRODUCTIONS WALMART PRODUCTION Salary + commission. Please fax or All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. email resume to: 212-889-8863, SUPPORT [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Min. 3yrs exp. with Walmart systems. Work closely with VP of production, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, work with VP of Operations, track Salesperson DESIGNER Associate Designer (Missy) overseas shipments, coordinate T & A, Ladies’ Apparel Co. in business over 20 PRODUCTIONS add sheets, attend supplier summits, years seeks aggresive Salesperson to sell Full service shop to the trade. LUXURY EVENINGWEAR Must have experience working supplier quotes. Please email resume Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. to existing & new private label & other Seeking Designer with a creative with Overseas, knowledge in Pho- to:Email:[email protected] accounts. Must have est’d. customer base. to Shop, Illustrator, Excel, and Salary + commission. Fax/E-mail resume: edge for fast-paced high profile RAW MATERIALS MGR $90K 212-695-1324 / [email protected] brand. Must be a self-starter able to do specs. Manage Fabric & Trim for a and team player. Sketching [email protected] Runway Men’s Designer Cleo & Dot Clothing Co. 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Seeking Reps with 2 + Expert work in heart of Manhattan CAD/GRAPHIC DESIGNER EVENING WEAR – COUTURE Girls manufacturing company seeks Email: [email protected] Leading import co. specializing in knit Call Mary 212.719.0881 experienced person for Walmart and for individual years experience, and solid relation- Call: 212-764-3700 or 718-450-5748 wear for Juniors has immediate open- other retailer. Candidate must be detail ships with Major Dept. Stores and ing. Candidate must be proficient in oriented and a team player that has TERRITORIES AVAILABLE Quark, Illustrator, Photoshop & flat Human Resources Admin to $65K. strong knowledge in processing fit subscriptions or Boutiques. : sketching. 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Must GILBERT CAREER RESUMES rapid expansion. Candidate must be be proficient in Illustrator and independent, organized, self motivated (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Photoshop. Must have experience with fashionresumes.com CTL - Wal Mart $100K++ and highly responsible and a good Wal-Mart, Target and other major team player. Strong Adboe Illustrator Prod’n Mgr - CTL Compliances retailers. Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] 212-947-3400 and Photoshop skills are necessary to [email protected] tweak designs from start to finish Search hundreds of positions in along with the ability to do illustrations for presentations. Great communication Junior Design Associate skill and follow up is a must with our fashion, retail and beauty. overseas factories. Must have at least 2 Customer Service Manager: YIGAL AZROUEL years experience. Unique opportunity for someone ambi- Please email resume to: Premium Swimwear Co. seeks a detail tious, hands-on, highly energetic and [email protected] oriented Customer Service Mgr. with able to work in a fast paced environment. knowledge of order processing systems Must possess strong technical skills (QRS, EDI, INVOIS), and international Technical Designer including sketching, draping, specs as Fast growing Missy Contemporary Cut shipping. Proficient w/Excel, Microsoft well as strong organizational skills. 1-3 Outlook etc. MUST HAVE 5-10 YEARS & Sew Knitwear Co seeks Tech De- years exp. within designer market; signer w/ 2-3 yrs exp. Must be detail- CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGEMENT both knit and woven. Account Executive EXPERIENCE. Competitive salary, medi- oriented, able to work in fast-paced en- Email resume to: vironment. Resp: creating spec w/ tech Handbag & Accessory Showroom cal, dental, 401k. Company Confidential. [email protected] seeking FT energetic, motivated and Please E-mail resume & cover letter to: sketches, fittings on live model, grad- organized individual. This position [email protected] ing, approving production. Commu w/ will maintain and increase sales to ex- factories. Comp literacy a must, Photo isting house accounts including specialty PATTERNMAKER shop, Illust, Excel & Web PDM. Great and international stores, as well as de- benefits! Fax resume: 212-221-1353. velop and drive new business pros- Established Women’s Apparel Mfr. pects. Substantial growth opportunity seeks patternmaker with a Woman’s DESIGNER- 4+ yrs exp designing Jrs sportswear background, mostly woven TECHNICAL DESIGNER in a casual & friendly atmosphere! or Girls 7-16 swimwear or sportswear/ Ladies manufacturer seeks experienced E-mail resume to lined jackets. Must know Gerber PDS . must do own prints on MAC. $80-100K Fax resume to :212-444-6019 Tech. designer with C&S knit and [email protected] or fax to Call Les Richards at (212) 221-0870 sweater background at its New York 212-629-4684, ATTN: Rachael City location. Responsibilities include fitting sample and making corrections. Must be able to work in a fast paced Admin Since 1967 PATTERN MAKERS team environment, have computer ex- W-I-N-S-T-O-N 1st Prod’n Runway Couture Dsgnr $150-200K perience, and be organized. We offer a DESIGNER for Loca Loca Cstm Work w/ Socialites & Movie Stars competitive salary & benefits package. APPAREL STAFFING 1st Prod’n Couture -Dress $100-150K For consideration, please send your DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Junior knit tops w/knowledge of 1st Prod’n Dsgnr Mkt Jacket/Dress $100-125K imports & specs. E-mail resume to: resume with salary requirements to: ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION 1st Prod’n-Better Day Dresses $70-85K [email protected] (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 [email protected] [email protected] 212-947-3400 16 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2007 WWD.COM

Lauren Bacall at Women in Hollywood Home Bodies in Beverly Hills. “For 45 years, everyone thinks I love parties and to go out. It’s all wrong. I love to stay home.” And there it is, straight from the horse’s mouth: Valentino is a homebody. Of course, all evidence lately has been to the contrary, what with the endless round of parties honoring the designer’s lengthy career in fashion (including tonight’s fete hosted by Diane von Furstenberg). Friday was no different, when the jet set came together to celebrate “Una Grande Storia Italiana,” a mammoth tome on Valentino’s life published by Taschen. Festivities began at Christie’s, where pals including Zac Posen and Daphne Guinness dropped by to pay their respects — and about $4,000 for a limited edition volume. Pricy, yes, but some picked up two or three copies (one for each Valentino home, of course). The Ubiquitor Afterward, Giancarlo Giammetti, Julia Daphne and David Koch, and Lisa Airan and Trevor Born dined at Guinness lthough Woody Harrelson plays the title Cipriani. When Anne Hathaway, newly shorn for her role Acharacter in the upcoming society fl ick “The in Jonathan Demme’s fi lm “Dancing With Shiva,” arrived Walker,” it’s his co-star Lauren Bacall who has been JIM SPELLMAN/WIREIMAGE with boyfriend Raffaello Follieri, Valentino lit up like a racking up numerous hours researching the art Christmas tree and greeted the starlet with a tight hug. of the arrival. In the last six weeks, Bacall has “I feel so fat,” a very pregnant Samantha Rosen said, walked half a dozen red carpets in New York and apropos of nothing. “I told Aby to put me in formaldehyde and Los Angeles, making her stick me in front of Lever House,” like the planned surely the most available Damien Hirst projects he’s commissioned. screen legend on the party The multicourse dinner probably did little circuit. She has hit Cinema to alleviate her feelings, but as the noise level Society screenings, after soared, it was clear everyone was enjoying parties and Broadway themselves. Susan Gutfreund even jumped up openings, typically clad in from her place at the head table to record the a version of her signature occasion with her digital camera. black pantsuit. After all, But maybe it is true what Valentino says that’s one thing the icon about himself, and those whom he befriends. has on an ingenue — she When guests began to depart, just after knows her style and is At the opening midnight, Carlos Souza was making too smart to play in the night of “The plans with Hathaway for the following overwrought game of Overwhelming” in day. “Jeans, pizza and a movie at borrowing dresses. New York. Anne Julia Koch in home,” he proposed. ▼ JenniferJennifer CreelCreel “I love it,” she cried. Hathaway Valentino. in Valentino. inin ZacZac Posen.Posen.

With Cate Blanchett at a screening of “Elizabeth: At the opening The Golden Age” in night of “Rock & New York. Roll” in New York.

The dinner scene at Cipriani. Lisa Airan SARDELLA, JEMAL COUNTESS/WIREIMAGE, JAMIE MCCARTHY/WIREIMAGE, STEVE EICHNER; BACALL FROM TOP: DONATO PHOTOS BY PARTY VALENTINO

diametrically different voices, two entirely different characters who spoke SEEING DOUBLE differently, thought differently and had very different mind-sets. There’s a lyrical laywright Tom Stoppard has a knack for getting New York theatergoers quality to Esme and there’s a controlled Pinto a tizzy. Last year, his award-winning “The Coast of Utopia” had and disciplined demeanor to Eleanor.” audiences enraptured, sometimes for nine hours at a time. This fall, he’s Cusack is no stranger to the PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY returned to Broadway from London’s West End, bringing his latest play, musicality of language. She’s a “Rock ’n’ Roll,” with him — as well as much of the original British cast, prolifi c stage performer in England including renowned Irish actress Sinead Cusack. and former member of the Royal A three-time veteran of the Great White Way, Cusack is wryly cognizant Shakespeare Company, taking on leads of Times Square’s tourist appeal — and the potential confusion caused by in “Macbeth,” “The Taming of the the name of Stoppard’s latest work. Shrew” and “Antony and Cleopatra” in “It’s such a great title for the play, except for those people who come London, as well as “Much Ado About and expect it to be a musical,” she laughs of “Rock ’n’ Roll,” which Nothing,” here, which earned her a opened last week at the Bernard B. Jacobs Theatre. But they won’t leave Tony Award nomination. While she has entirely bereft of the musical genre: Tracks from the likes of Pink Floyd known Stoppard for years, this marks and The Rolling Stones bookend every scene. her fi rst role in one of his plays. Set at Cambridge University and in Prague over the course of about Sinead Cusack “I always had an aspiration to be a 20 years, “Rock ’n’ Roll” follows a Czech lecturer, Jan (Rufus Sewell); classical actress. I think it’s being an a professorial couple — Eleanor (Cusack) and the staunchly Communist Irish peasant,” she jokes. Max (Brian Cox), and their daughter, Esme (Alice Eve). When 1968 brings the Prague Spring, However, Cusack’s theatrical endeavors were somewhat of an accident. The daughter of a brief period of Czech democratic reforms, Jan returns home buoyed by hope. Meanwhile, at famed thespian Cyril Cusack, the young Cusack set out on an academic career. But right Cambridge, Eleanor must battle cancer and her husband’s Communist beliefs, to heartbreaking before starting her studies at Dublin’s University College she ran into some actors in the street effect. and on a whim, auditioned for the National Theater of Ireland. When she got in, she managed “What Tom is concerned with in the play is how our humanness fi nally prevails over a to juggle university and drama school for three years until she was kicked out of the latter. system or a belief system,” muses Cusack of the clashing of music, politics and doctrines. “They said I couldn’t be heard past the fi rst three rows of the stall,” laughs Cusack. The work proves a particular challenge for the actress as she must play both the academic Her father’s reaction to her chosen profession was no less complimentary. Eleanor and, in the second act, the 39-year-old version of Esme, a grown-up fl ower child “He said, ‘I’m not sure you’ll ever make a career of it. You don’t have the equipment,’” she struggling with her less-than-illustrious life. recalls. “I never worked out what he meant by that.” “Esme was the one I was most worried about because she’s a lot younger than I am,” says It’s safe to say, Cusack has had the last laugh. Cusack, 59, who is married to Jeremy Irons (with whom she has two sons). “I had to fi nd two — Vanessa Lawrence