I 0 tie 91VBRNitiCE 20 CENTS A ChPY CI it C V2.-0aia ,

VOL. IV. HONOLULU, TERRITORY OF HAWAII 4,04-46 ' " OOP

SOUTH AUSTRALIA FOR TOURISTS

From San Francisco, Vancouver and from Honolulu there are two lines of fast steamships to Sydney, Australia. From Sydney to Adelaide, South Australia, there is a direct line of railway ; half rates are made to the Tourist, and no visitor to the Australian Common- wealth can afford to neglect visiting the southern central state of Australia ; for south Australia is the state of supurb climate and unrivalled resources. Adelaide, the garden city of the south, is the capital ; there a s in Sydney there is a govern- ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau. The tourist, investor or settler is given accurate information, guaranteed by the government, and free to all. From Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river and motor excursions .to almost every part of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted through the magnificent moun- tain and pastoral scenery of south Australia. The government makes travel easy by a system of coupon tickets and facilities for caring for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions are arranged to the holiday resorts ; individuals or parties are made familiar with the industrial resources, and the American as well as the Britisher is made welcome if he cares to make south Australia his home. - The South Australian Intelligence and Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on King William street, Adelaide, and the government has printed many illus- trated books and pamphlets describing the scenic and industrial resources of the state. A post card or letter to the Intelligence and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the books and information you may desire.

THE ISLAM) OF LANAI FOR SALE

The only and largest island in the world that can be owned in its entirety by an individual or corporation. A Mid-Pacific Principality of one hundred and six thousand acres of good land, with twenty thousand sheep, fifteen hundred cattle, two thousand hogs and three hundred horses. The Island of Lanai is one of the seven Hawaiian group located sixty miles from Honolulu, IT. S. A. For full particulars address STANTON AND O'DONNELL, First National Bank Building, San Francisco, Cal. LIBRARY OF HAWAII CIRCULATING

The Mid-PacificMagazine CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD HOWARD M. BALLOU, Associate Editor VOLUME IV NUMBER 4

CONTENTS FOR OCTOBER, 1912.

Our Art Gallery . . . . . . 302 The Pacific Coast from Shipboard . . . 317 The Hawaiian Fish Trap . . . . . 319 By John F. G. Stokes Around Australia . . . . . . 325 By Percy Hunter Following Lava Trails in Hawaii . . . 331 By Sol. N. Sheridan Maori Superstitions . . . . . 337 By C. F. Maxwell Afterglow ' . . . . . . 341 By Dixie Fort Home Life in Japan . . . . . 347 By Alexander Hume Ford The Defense of Hawaii . . . . . 353 By Brig.-Gen'l John H. Soper, N. G. H. Retired The Smiles of Witashima . . . . 361 By Arthur Loring Mackaye My Catamaran . . . . . . . 369 By a Malihini Cruising Among the South Sea Islands . . 373 By H. F. Alexander To an Hawaiian Skylark (a Poem) . . . 378 By P. Maurice McMahon Woman and the Cruising Habit . . . 379 By Helen May Farr The New Chamber of Commerce Idea . . 383 By Mark G. Springley The Story of Hawaii . . . . . 387 Editorial Comment . . . . . . 396

The Mid-Pacific Magazine Published monthly by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Hawaiian Gazette Co., Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copy, 20e. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postotfice.

Permission is given to the Press to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given. Copyright 1912 by Alexander Hume Ford.

1—It. P.

the MID - PACIFIC MAGAZINE VOL. 4 OCTOBER, 1912 No. 4. The Pacific Coast From Shipboard

I once traveled with a British sailor from Seattle to Nome. Among the whose proud boast it was that, although Aleutian Islands ever active volcanoes, he had sailed several times around the grander in display than any adjacent to globe, he had never yet, and never the Atlantic, may be seen belching forth would, step ashore at any port over fire and smoke. There is a cruise among which the British flag did not fly. the islands and inlets of the Alaskan and At first I pitied him for what he had Canadian Pacific coasts that is unsur- missed. Later I began to realize what passed in grandeur. The crusing ship a man might see from the deck of a ship steams up to glaciers that form palisades around the Pacific that would educate against the sea, skirts the base of the and inspire him. highest mountains on the northern con- I .cruised around the Mediterranean t:nent, and casts anchor before villages once, and on the deck of our steamer sat of totem poles. From the decks the voy- an invalid who never left the boat, yet agers may look down upon the Indians she enjoyed the cruise perhaps more in their canoes, or out upon mountain than any of us, and gained more. scenery without compare. The cruising possibilities of the Pacific Through Puget Sound there are are boundless. It is possible to begin a cruises in quiet waters amid towering round-the-Pacific cruise in summer, by mountains. From Puget Sound to Mex- entering the Great Ocean from the Arc- ico there is a cruise that keeps ever in tic Seas by one of the regular liners sight the Great Pacific Coast of America. 2-M. P. 317 318 THE MID-PACIFIC.

From the decks of the vessel the con- Malay Peninsula and China, or by way tour of the continent's rugged face may of the many intervening islands to the be studied in detail. Philippines, Formosa, and Japan. Every- Steamers there are that ply from San where these countries may be enjoyed Francisco to Panama, stopping at every from the deck ; their greatest grandeur port, and from Panama to the Straits of is surely along the coast line, and in Magellan and beyond. The Pacific Japan great Fujiyama may be seen to the Coast of South America becomes a pan- best advantage from the sea. orama, the Andes as a background, to the I once spied out everything to be seen round-the-Pacific cruiser. from the masthead on either side of the From South America, as from San Inland Sea of Japan before the captain Francisco, there is the line to Northern called me down and threatened to place Asia, by way of Hawaii, or the direct me in irons. Among the Philippines are southern voyage from San Francisco by delectable landlocked vistas, as beautiful way of Tahiti or Hawaii to New Zea- as any in Japan's famous waters. land and Australia. Hawaii's great scenic wonders are also to be viewed from the sea. Every Once in New Zealand waters it is pos- day there is an inter-island steamer that sible practically to circumnavigate New stepping from coasts the several islands. There is the Zealand without more than ride by sea along the sugar-clad base of one vessel to another of the same line. Mauna Kea, that slopes 14,000 feet up The coastal scenery of New Zealand is from the sea. Along the Hawaiian Ri- comparable only to that of Norway and viera, between Hilo and Laupahoehoe, Alaska, and is best seen from the deck of from the deck of the steamer waterfalls a ship. In fact, one might learn volumes may be seen pouring out of the rocky of New Zealand and its cities merely by cliffs and leaping to the sea. Every- visiting the many harbors and deep in- lets, for its chief cities are all seaports, where along the coast of the Hawaiian and its sublimest scenery is coastal. Islands grandeur of outline broken by delectable vistas up valleys and between This is also true of Tasmania and mountain ranges catches and holds the Australia. eye. Throughout the South Seas the islands There are those who have experienced may well be studied from the decks of the scenic thrills of their lives from the the many copra steamers that ply these decks of the Hawaiian cruising steamers. waters, and one need not necessarily go I would always prefer to go ashore in ashore to study native life, which is any country, but perhaps after all my lived mostly on the beach. I have travel- British sailor friend has learned that ed for a month or more at a time along sometimes disenchantment follows too the outer reefs and by the South Sea close a scrutiny into that which most Island precipices that drop sheer into the pleases the eye at a distance. sea, with men and women who never If I could see no more of Pacific lands once set foot ashore, yet gained first- and islands than from the deck of a hand knowledge of South Sea island life, cruiser, I would consider myself richer by casual vision and the use of the bino- far than the multi-millionaire who re- culars. mained at home to read about and gaze The opportunities are boundless for upon pictures of what to me becomes a coasting around Australia, and on the reality—if only to the visual sense. The Hawaiian Fish Trap BY JOHN F. G. STOKES

A Typical Fish Pond, center foreground .

Among the few remaining evidences which the stream was dammed with a of early Hawaiian life are the walled transverse wall just above the rapids and fish traps, pounds or weirs at the en- conducted by means of a canal over a trance to Pearl Harbor, Oahu. They are horizontal sieve of long, slender sticks particularly interesting as not occurring lying parallel and close together. Dur- elsewhere in the group, probably for the ing floods, when the waters of the stream reason that conditions favorable to their operation are only to be found at this were rendered muddy, great quantities one place. of oopu (fresh water gobies) were caught The Hawai'ans have had for many in these weirs. years a system of raising fish for food The Pearl Harbor fish traps, on the within ponds and walled enclosures, other hand, were used for the purpose of called loko, adjacent to the sea, the va- taking the ocean fishes which had enter- rieties being confined to such shore fishes ed the harbor, the principal being the as amaama and awa, and an occasional akule, weke, pualu, and the makiawa. moi, or oopuhue, which may have enter- Occasionally other fishes were taken in ed the pond when young. The system is small numbers, such as kawakawa and still in use in all the islands, more par- aku, and sharks—in fact, one trap, ticularly Oahu and Molokai. On the known as Pakule, is claimed by older last-mentioned island use was made of Hawaiians to have been entered by every very large ponds, in the walls of which fish except the whale ( !) and to have re- were numerous entrances and exits—the tained every kind except the amaama, fish being netted while attempting to pass which latter could find its way out over through. the walls. There was also a method of taking fish Three traps now remain, the largest in weirs in the mountain torrents, in called "Pakule" (originally without doubt

319 320 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Pa akule, the akule pen, since the akule brought from a distance of several miles. was the most important fish taken there- Tradition has it that all the stones for in) on the west bank of the channel at the walls were brought from a hill in Hammer Point. In this trap were caught Ewa, Oahu, caled "Puuopalalii," which is all the fishes just mentioned except the of volcanic origin ; the earliest account makiawa. In modern times sharks have must have related to these few lava rocks. been captured within its confines, and it The dark stones were more numerous now goes by the name of "The Shark along the north wall than on the south, Pen" among the white residents. The and those found in position were about other two traps are called "Pa makiawa" thirteen feet apart. The natives called and are situated, one on the west of the them "men" who drove back the fish at- channel at the point called Puleou, and tempting to pass over the wall. When the other on the east of the channel be- newly laid, the dark stones would have tween the place called Keanapuaa and contrasted very strongly with the light Awaawaolohe bay. In these the maki- color of the coral rock, and undoubtedly awa was taken. Formerly there was an- fulfilled their purpose then, but when other trap on the east bank of the chan- seen, they were so thickly covered with nel at Bishop Point, which has been in mollusca and barnacles as to be well nigh ruins as far back as any modern native indistinguishable from the rest. It has can remember ; it has been removed and been claimed that the dark stones had the stones used to build a small pier near been worked by hand to resemble sharks' the point. From descriptions it has been heads, but an examination showed them gathered that the shape, position and use to have been the result of natural cleav- were the same as the pa makiawa at ages, and their shape undoubtedly influ- Keanapuaa. enced the builders in their selection. The general shape of the three fish At the north end of the leader wall is traps is alike. A heavy curved wall fol- another dark stone about four and one- lowing generally the direction of the half feet long and one foot wide and shore was built in the deeper water, and, thick. It was lying on the bottom of the turning back for about one-third of the water when seen, but formerly stood distance, formed a pocket and acted as erect. Its name was "Kuula," the Ha- one side of the entrance. From the turn waiian fish god. Kuula was a noted another wall ran out to deep water as fisherman in early days, who has since a leader. From the shore side of the en- been deified and is still worshiped on all trance a wall was constructed, first par- the coasts of these islands in the shape allel with and then directly to the shore, of stones, sculptured and rough, and in diminishing in size as the water shoaled. small walled enclosures. His wife Him_ The rear end of the outer wall and the is sometimes with h'rn, and in the Pakule beach were joined by another wall. The she is to be found as a roughly penta- walls varied in width from a single line gonal slab of coral rock about two and of stones near the shore to from three to one-half by two feet by eight inches in six feet in the deepest part, and were size, and her position is on the south end built of blocks of coral reef rock averag- of the outer wall standing erect and fac- ing in size eighteen by fifteen by six ing the open sea. inches. Running out into deeper water from On the walls of the Pakule running Kuula and in the same direction as the shoreward were many pieces of dark ba- leader, there formerly stood a row of salt and of a curious black indurated mud twelve ohia tree stems about six fathoms resembling adobe. At several places along high and three feet apart. It was called the bank of the channel a stratum of the "Pa Ohia," and some of the trees were later substance crops out between two seen in place ten years ago. It is prob- strata of reef rock, and at Keanapuaa this able that the other fish traps were simi- sedimentary deposit is two feet deep. The larly provided. basaltic pieces, however, must have been The walls of the Pakule are approxi- THE MID-PACIFIC. 321

An Ocean Fish Pond, Hawaii. irately nine inches above water at low dition, the entrances of the pens were tide, and the height of the tide averages built opposed to the stronger current. one and one-half feet. The walls of the In landing the catch, the shoal was al- two pa makiawa are just covered at low lowed to enter the pen, when the fish, tide, but were probably a little higher, as probably finding themselves entrapped, they are not so well preserved as those congregated in the deep water of the of the Pakule. The two former pens, pocket. Soon, no doubt following the judging from the marine growth, are tide, they moved toward the closed side much older than the latter. On the walls of the pen, when a small seine was drawn of the pa rr►akiawa at Puleou, no dark across the entrance from a point about stones were observed, but a few were the middle of the outer wall and their re- seen on the outer wall of that at Keana- turn to deep water barred. They were puaa, and none on the side walls. then drawn ashore through the shallow From rough soundings made, it was water. observed that the corresponding depth of The name of the builder of the fish water inside and outside of the fish traps traps has not come down to us, but the did not appreciably differ. In the plans, natives living thereabout say that the Pa- the depth at low tide is marked in feet. kule was built in one night by the Mene- Some months ago when sections of the hune—gnomes—many years ago. The north and south walls of the Pakule Menehune belief is frequently met with were removed it was found that the on these islands, and to the constructive stones were lying on top of the sand bank ability of these mythical people is attrib- and that conditions were the same as at uted today many of the earlier works of the time of building. the Hawaiians. Ancient Hawaiian his- It is interesting to note what advant- tory records little more than the genea- age of natural conditions was taken by logies and wars, but Fornander mentions the early fishermen in constructing their that an enterprising Ewa chief, Keaunui, traps on the banks jutting out into the son of Maweke, about twenty-six gener- channel. The natives say that the incom- ations ago, accomplished the task of wid- ing tide flows more strongly against the ening and deepening the channel of the east side of the channel, while the west harbor, which was without doubt no side bears the heavier proportion of the mean undertaking. To such a chief might ebb. To reap the full benefit of this con- perhaps be given credit for the ingenuity 322 THE MID-PACIFIC. exercised in building these weirs. The serve what advances in these directions writer is inclined, however, to surmise the the southern Polynesians had made. The date as about thirteen generations ago, similarity of type of the fish traps at when the building of the walled fish ponds Pearl Harbor seems to indicate a famil- must have been sufficiently novel to the iarity with some previously known form, native chronicler for the fact to be re- though they may also have been copied corded. Then it was that Kalaimanuia, from one original in Pearl Harbor, in Queen of Oahu, was accredited with the which case that on Bishop Point was building of three fish ponds in Pearl probably the first, followed in order of Harbor, Kapaakea in Waimalu, and Opu time by those at Puleou, Keanapuaa and and Paaiau in Kalauao, and her son Kai- Hammer Point, judging from the marine hikapu is mentioned as constructing two growth and condition of the walls. more in Moanalua nearby. As to whether It is among the fisherfolk that we find the fish ponds or the fish traps took pre- superstitions most prevalent today, and cedence in time in these islands is an open many Hawaiian fishermen are still as question. Under ordinary circumstances punctilious in the offerings of "first- it might easily be conceived how fisher- fruits" as they were formerly. When a men observing the assistance given by a Hawaiian makes a new net, the first ob- natural wall or bank in the water and ject drawn up, be it fish, seaweed or peb- channels in the reefs, when surrounding ble, is offered to Kuula with a prayer to their prey, would construct artificial walls insure the luck of the net. Formerly, to assist in driving the fish, and the wall- and in isolated cases today, the first fish ed fish trap as here illustrated might fol- of the catch was brought ashore and dedi- low as a natural development. Ethnology cated to Kuula, the ceremony as now ob- teaches us that the rearing of animals de- served being a simple offering generally notes a higher civilization than the hunt- accompanied by a prayer and varying ac- ing of the same, and it is reasonable to cording to the locality and the individual. admit that the growing of fish in the At Hammer Point above the beach and ponds and their conservation for future in line with the north and south walls of needs is an advance on the method of the Pakule is an timu or underground capturing supplies to fill immediate de- oven called "Koa." Koa is the name of mands. a small walled enclosure or platform, The original fish pond was probably a numerous examples of which are scatter- fish trap in which a larger supply than ed around the coasts of these islands, needed was taken at one time and the fish where the fish are offered to Kuula. The retained therein until used. This advan- Bishop Museum is fortunate in having in tage of a supply on hand might well have its employ as a janitor a Hawaiian fish- suggested the enlargement and alteration erman who lived for many years near of the shape of fish traps for use as fish Puuloa, and through him most of the na- ponds, the present simple walled struc- tive information was gleaned. The Pa- ture constituting the latter, being the nat- kule and the land at Hammer Point en- ural result of economy of labor. How- closed by the fence and the house were ever, this explanation drawn from local tabu to Kuula and watched over by his conditions can hardly be taken as a guide kahuna or priest, who lived in the house to priority of age of the fish traps now and drew the fish into the trap by means remaining at Pearl Harbor in compari- of invocations to his deity. It would seem son with the fish ponds of these islands, that the ceremonies connected with this as both are well developed forms fully Pakule were to be stringently observed, adapted for their respective uses, and ex- as, if a kahuna in his incantations even isted in full operation at the same time misplaced a word, the ceremony would side by side. It is not improbable that be of no effect and the kahuna would die. they owe their origin to a time prior to The priest was believed to have the the advent of the Polynesians to these power to draw into the trap at will any islands, and it would be interesting to ob- variety of fish desired, and for his ser- THE MID-PACIFIC. 323

The Largest Salt Water Fish Pond in Hawaii, near Honolulu. vices he received payment in advance Several attempts to resuscitate the fish- from the fishermen who expected to ben- ing have since failed, in 1907 no less efit from the catch. It was believed that than three kahunas being called in at when invoked, Hina enticed the variety different times, and the natives have ob- of fish desired into the harbor from the served that these three priests have died sea. On the return of the fish to the since their failure, and the man employ- ocean, they perceived Kuula hiding be- ing them has lost his position. hind the wall and fearing to pass him, The janitor was once a participant in attempted to make their way over the a catch of fish, when several fishermen bank, where they were stopped by the asked the kahuna to call in a certain va- men on the walls (represented by the riety. They were told to return the fol- black stones). Threatened on both sides, lowing morning. On their return, the they entered the trap. Mr. Bruce Cart- fish were waiting and while the kahuna wright, Jr., found on top of the wall near uttered his prayers by the heating imu, Hina a collection of four or five small the fishermen surrounded the shoal ; pieces of basalt ; the largest, under seven leaving the catch in the water inside the inches long, was preserved and shown to net, they brought one fish—the first—to a native, who said it represented a cer- the kahuna, who offered it to Kuula and tain fish. It may be that the kahuna, who cooked it in the oven, all the while mum- believed in his power as thoroughly as bling his prayers, which the janitor, who did his customers, designated to the god- was desirous of learning how to do it, dess the variety of fish he prayed for, by could neither hear clearly nor under- means of such stones placed where de- stand. When cooked, the fish was par- scribed. taken of by every one present, and all the Piopio is said to have been the kahuna remains buried in the oven. Mr. Cart- until 1882 or 1883, followed by Kaanaa- wright has lately informed the writer na until 1889. Then Kimona took that there are certain holes in the ledge charge and operated the Pakule until of rock at Puleou in which, it was said, 1891, when he left to live at Moanalua. the fish were cooked, and it is more than 324 THE MID-PACIFIC.

probable that similar customs prevailed thin, and the consequences to the woman at the other fish traps, the cessation of a serious illness or even death. Any ex- the same being due to the overshadow- planation of this and the foregoing be- ing influence of the larger and better sit- liefs the writer has been unable to ob- uated Pakule, which is also, as before re- tain. marked, probably the most recent. The janitor had observed that during The walls of the Pakule and the the incumbency of the various kahuna fenced ground have been referred to as sharks were never known to have enter- tabu to Kuula. Males and unmarried ed the trap, but since Pakule has been girls were permitted to pass along the unguarded these fish have often tres- walls and through the enclosure, but if passed. An evidence of this is the cur- any married woman were to trespass in ious fact that today the Pakule is known these sacred prec.ncts, a sickness would to the white population as "The Shark attend her which would end her life un- Pen," and the belief is general among less cured by Kuula's kahuna. Another others than the aborigines that it was version is that both the woman and the built for the purpose of entrapping kahuna would die. It might be men- sharks. tioned that from the walls of fish ponds These walled fish traps, being in the women were debarred during the period line of the channel planned by the United of their menses, the belief being that the States naval authorities, now have fish in the pond would become poor and ceased to exist.

Pearl Harbor. Around Australia BY PERCY HUNTER

It is the ambition of every Australian you as I should be treated, and tell you to know his country. Not only that, but something in detail of the cities and he wants everyone else to know Austra- places on the coast of Australia that face Ea. He is proud of his continent. Americaward. Many Australians make up their Thursday Island lies in Torres Strait, minds to circumnavigate the island con- opposite Cape York, the northeastern ex- tinent, but it is often the American tour- tremity of Australia, from which it is ist who comes nearest accomplishing this separated by Endeavor Strait. The feat. pearling industry, which is conducted on Starting from his base in Manila, the an extensive scale, is its interesting fea- Yankee traveler either descends directly ture. For the most part, the pearl shells upon Northern Australia, or he leisurely are collected off the shallow reefs ; but drops down to Java and cruises from deep-sea diving—a depth of twenty-five there in one of the smaller steamers, fathoms has been reached—is now prac- either to Perth in West Australia and tised, though not without serious risks. around by the southern coast to Mel- The work is chiefly performed by Ka- bourne, or he books on the boat to Syd- nakas and Japanese. ney by way of the many islands and the Resuming the voyage from Thursday Torres Straits. Island, the steamer passes along the The American has 1200 islands in his quiet waters b tween the Great Barrier Philippine group, and is sometimes loth Reef and the mainland, and reaches to leave gay Manila for the 2200 mile Townsville (660 miles) after two and a voyage to Thursday Island, the first half days' trip. This is the largest city landing place on Australasian soil. How- in North Queensland. In addition to its ever, no American ever regrets a visit outer anchorage, Townsville has a well- to Australia. Many of those who have sheltered inner harbor, protected by a come to visit have remained to live. stone breakwater for a mile on either It is surprising how little I know of side ; it has a railway system of its own, the countries I intend to visit, until after of which it is the center, being connected I have really visited them, so I shall treat with the other systems of the State, al-

325 326 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Cruising in Jenolan Cave.

though it is under the control of the bers 137,670, which is more than one- Queensland State Railway Commis- fifth of the total population of the State. sioner. The town has behind it three Brisbane, though smaller, is as up-to- great sources of revenue — sheep and date as any of the great modern cities. cattle raising on the pastoral area to It has some magnificent buildings, and Cloncurry, the gold mines of Charters its public and private institutions would Towers, and the sugar plantations of the do credit to a metropolis far exceeding Burdekin. A trip to Ayr, by rail, will it in size. Its comprehensive electric bring the visitor to the heart of the tramway system radiates through the sugar-growing country. suburbs, and many of the routes are The steamer leaves Townsville in the most picturesque, commanding beautiful afternoon, and will reach Brisbane—the panoramic outlooks. Brisbane is amply Capital of Queensland — (610 miles supplied with public parks and gardens, south), two and a half days later. well laid out and splendidly kept, and Brisbane is picturesquely situated on the many beautiful homes of its citizens the banks of the Brisbane river, about along the river banks have earned for it twenty miles from where it flows into the the sobriquet of "The Villa City." ocean. Across an amphitheatre of dark Brisbane is destined to be one of Aus- blue hills the river winds like a silver tralia's largest and most important capi- ribbon ; the city clusters along its banks tals. The State of Queensland is one of and spreads over valley, undulation and the largest and richest in the Australian ridge. The climate of Brisbane resem- Commonwealth, and will be the greatest bles that of Southern California, which meat producing country in Australia. means that it enjoys one of the mildest The State is rapidly developing, and her in the world. The population, within a progress in the future will receive a great ten-mile radius of the city's center, num- impetus when it feels the full effect of THE MID-PACIFIC. 327

Near Adelaide, South Australia. the government's policy of assisted im- state of things obtains in regard to migration, which is now being rigorously Queensland's sugar industry. The Com- prosecuted. In addition to the main pro- monwealth's "White Australia" policy, ducts which the several States have in under which the Kanaka was deported to common, Queensland is favored by her his islands, has left the industry almost geographical position for the sub-tropi- exclusively to the white man. Side by cal products of sugar cane, bananas, ar- side with this great reform, the Queens- rowroot and cotton, which she alone of land government established what is all the Australian States produces in any known as the "Central Mill System," and considerable quantity. loaned the money for the purpose. The Queensland is the great sugar-produc- large estates now have been cut up into ing State of Australia, because her rich small farms, which have been sold or agricultural lands are in tropical and rented to white cane growers, who sup- semi-tropical latitudes. Of late years the ply the central mill. Thus the suppres- industry has undergone a rapid change. sion of the "plantation" system has Under the old regime, the "plantation" changed the cane-growing industry from system, under which the same man was being the monopoly of a few rich plant- planter, mill owner and manufacturer, ers and companies to an almost essen- had vogue, and the largest percentage tially democratic industry. of labor he employed was "black"— The voyage from Brisbane to Sydney chiefly the Kanaka. This system still may be made by either boat or by rail. obtains in most of the world's sugar- The trip by ral is much the more in- growing countries, and the large culti- structive. The train passes through the vated areas lie contiguous to the mills, famous Darling Downs. the grower and the manufacturer being The Darling Downs, which surround one concern. Today quite a different Toowoomba on the north, south and 328 THE MID-PACIFIC.

west, consist of an area of volcanic coun- Australians, a return may be made to try, 4,000,000 acres, equal in extent to Sydney via Botany, a busy manufactur- the American States of Illinois and Mis- ing center, or over the same route if pre- souri. The soil is rich ; black, red and ferred. chocolate in color, and varying in depth The magnificent ocean beaches at from four feet to sixty feet, and the Bondi and Coogee Le within half an hour whole area is well watered by numerous of the capital, over a route leading mountain streams. Some of the "pock- through some of the fashionable suburbs. ets" in the valleys contain soil as rich In summer these spots are gay with life, and productive as any in the world. The for thousands of Sydney's inhabitants mild temperatures with these rich soils disport themselves in the foam-crested enable all crops, vegetables and fruits of breakers of the blue Pacific. Besides the semi-tropical and temperate climes to be delights of surf-bathing at Bondi and grown. The crops cherly grown are Coogee, there are numerous outlooks over maize, wheat, barley and lucerne. the panorama of ocean and coastline— From Wallangarra to Sydney the an imposing chain of bold, rocky head- journey lies for the most part over the lands and sweeping beaches of golden northern tableland, through a rich tract sands. of country given over to the growing of wool and wheat, and to dairying. On arrival at Albury, the border sta- Newcastle, the great coal port, in the tion, the Victorian car will be in waiting, center of one of the largest coalfields in as was the case at the Queensland bor- der. This is rendered necessary on ac- the world, will be reached at breakfast time. From here on to Sydney the scen- count of the variation in the gauge of the railway tracks. ery is beautiful, especially around Gos- Shortly after leaving ford, Woy Woy and the Hawkesbury Albury, the Murray river, which forms river, which for continuous beauty of the boundary between the States, is scenery has been placed before the Rhine crossed. An interesting journey of 190 and the Mississippi near St. Paul. miles over typical Australian scenery Sydney has few rivals for beauty of brings the visitor to Melbourne, the cap- situation, and visitors will see something ital of Victoria. The country between of the extent and beauty of the world- Albury and Melbourne is mostly flat and famed harbor of. Port Jackson ; of the well grassed, and is devoted principally to grazing purposes. magnificent natural beauties in close proximity to the metropolis, and of some Melbourne is the best laid-out city in of the scenic resorts, which a splendid Australia ; its streets are wide and rec- railway system brings within easy dis- tangular, and are planted with trees and tance of it. gardens. The city proper occupies an The electric cars convey visitors to La area of one mile square, and its pictur- Perouse via Darlinghurst, Zoological esque environs stretch for miles in all directions. Gardens, Royal Agricultural Society's grounds, Kensington, Randwick, Marou- The afternoon of arrival may be de- bra and Long Bay, or to Bondi or Coo- voted to tram or motor rides around gee beaches. The journey is an inter- Melbourne and some of its fashionable esting one, the road crossing the country suburbs, which will afford an opportun- lying between Sydney harbor and Bot- ity of seeing the city, its buildings, bou- any Bay. La Perouse is situated on the levards and gardens. shores of the historical Botany Bay, Tram fares amount to but a few pence, where the Navigator's Monument and and motors for small parties cost about other places of local interest may be in- ten shillings for each passenger. spected. Kurnell, the landing place of One of the finest trips for a visitor to Captain Cook, the Columbus of Australia, Melbourne is to the charming fern glades lies opposite. After seeing everything at of Healesville. This country town is this spot of such historical interest to thirty-eight miles from Melbourne, with THE MID-PACIFIC. 329 a lovely climate and fresh, bracing air. ley and township, the Yarra Valley and The surroundings are most delightful, Dandenong Ranges, with Melbourne in the country being mountainous, the scen- the distance, will be included in this trip. ery varied and of great beauty. A visit One of the few aboriginal stations in to Condon's Gully, which is a wilderness Victoria may be visited and exhibitions of magnificent ferns, many reaching a of boomerang and spear throwing, fire- height of thirty feet, and to the summit making and basket-weaving by the blacks of Mount Monda, from which a fine pan- arranged for the entertainment of the oramic view is obtainable of Watt's Val- party.

Sydney Harbor. 330 THE MID-PACIFIC.

A Typical Lava Trail. Following Lava Trails in Hawaii BY SOL. N. SHERIDAN

Cook's Monument.

The road by which we went down into large as the body of a robust man. Kona from our dry camp in the lava is a "Umi's Trail," they call this road. road that has been traversed by few men How few white men in these islands have now alive. Long ago, before the history ever even heard of Umi's Trail, although of these Islands began to be written, it is most may have read the story of Umi as said that the natives went that way to it is told in Alexander's history. Umi, get stone forms for their adzes from the according to the histories, was king over hard rock of Mauna Kea, but that is a the island of Hawaii about 1500 A. D. talc only. That was some little time before the ad- All that is known is that the natives vent of Kamehameha. did get their rock there for their stone It is said in Alexander's history that implements—and there are in places in "he built a remarkable temple on the that wild region that lies between the table-land between Mauna Loa and Hua- peaks of Mauna Loa and Hualalai the lalai, now known as `Ahuaa-a-Umi,' traces of a trail so old that in some parts which he is said to have occupied as his it has been covered by lava flows whose headquarters. Around this heiau he date is forgotten, and in other places caused six pyramids of stone fifteen to trees have grown up in it that are as twenty feet high to be erected."

331 332 THE MID-PACIFIC.

At the Base of Cook's Monument—the end of the trail.

It is ill attempting to correct any his- all Hawaiian roads of the olden time— tory—but there are seven pyramids of or most of them—it ran straight away stone, or the remains of seven pyramids toward the point that it was desired to of stone, around what is said to be the reach, regardless of the topography of House of Umi on the table-land that is the country. Umi was a trail builder, up between the mountains of Mauna Loa to his date. Where the a-a was level, his and Hualalai. I have seen and counted men marked their way across it by the seven. So have all the others who smooth going. Where there were de- were in the party with me. pressions in it, they were filled up to the However, it was a long ride from that general level, much as a modern engineer dry camp of the morning over the lava would fill them. Where there were flows that date from before and since the hillocks to be crossed, these were cut time of Umi to the house of that old away if not too high and passed over in a ancestor of the greatest of Hawaii's straight line if their altitude forbade kings. It was a long and a hard ride, grading. and the trail was a trail that but two And this road, as smooth and as easy men before us had ever traversed in its as though built but yesterday, was con- entirety. Eben Low and a native assist- structed so long ago that in the center of ant went that way once, and marked the it, through the rotten lava, lehua trees way. It was by this marked way that had grown up, having the girth of the Rawhide Ben led us out again. I know body of a strong man. Umi's slaves a man who will not travel that road marched this way to the quarries of Ma- again. una Kea, and his couriers went this way, We had traveled several hours from and his armies marched this way, it is our dry camp when we struck Umi's probable, to battle with the men of the Trail, plainly marked across an old a-a Waimea and Kohala country. If they flow upon which a forest had grown up. battled with Kohala men, I'll warrant The trail was plain, and showed that that they licked them. much work had been done upon it. Like This road, or maybe-another, ran from THE MID-PACIFIC. 333

Kailua straightaway to Hilo, and old The flow of 1859, in many of its as- tales are that the kings living at Kailua pects, is unique. You probably know all would have mullet caught for them in about that, if you know anything of lava the ponds of Waiakea in the morning, flows. And, if you do not, you are not and would eat them at night, relays of going to get the knowledge of them swift couriers carrying them across the from me. All I know of them is that island. We lost Umi's road, as we went on, they are hard to ride over—and the flow a little before we reached the great flow of 1859, because that we rode along upon of 1859, the flow that came boiling out it instead of crossing it directly, seemed from Mauna Loa and ran down to the something harder to ride over than the sea not very far from Kawaihae—one of rest. the greatest flows that the greatest of the It came to an end, after it had seemed volcanoes has sent down. Over this flow to extend for miles and miles and miles Eben Low and his native man, had mark- --but not until I had noticed at places ed the road with dabs of white paint in it some peculiar brownish spots, which upon the smooth surface of the black seemed to be made by a kind of smooth lava, and for miles we went by these clay coating the black rock, these brown white disks—not crossing the flow direct- spots invariably hiding caverns in the ly but following it down so that we might lava. make the point for which we were aiming This brownish stuff was soft, and on the table-land of Umi. For miles and about half an inch in thickness. I do not miles and . miles we followed the flow, know what it was. Maybe a lava expert working painfully from white disk to can tell. Nor do I understand why it white disk, the road growing rougher should lie in spots in certain parts of the and more uncertain all the time. But this flow, and be altogether absent in other more recent flow, upon which the forest parts. was not yet started, was by so much bet- We reached the end of this hard road, ter than the old ones where the trees at last, and came out upon the sand plain were breaking up the pahoehoe that we that forms the table-land between Ma- could at least observe the caves and una Loa and Hualalai—a table-land that cracks and crevices, and would have met is covered with forest growth but in our death, if we were doomed to meet it, which there is not one drop of water. with seeing eyes. If I am destined to fall Here the Secretary and Rawhide Ben into a bottomless pit, there is a certain and Thimbleberry Jim went galloping dark satisfaction in seeing the place (,f off, after crossing that lava flow, in chase death. of wild pigs—which they did not get. As I can conceive of nothing more diffi- to the rest of us, we rested. That was cult to travel upon than an old flow of the most convenient thing to do, and the pahoehoe, not yet transformed into soii, easiest. I have found in myself a great -upon which a lehua forest has started. capacity for resting, and Jimmie has The trees and the rock seem to combine noted the same thing of himself. -against the traveler—the one to drag him from his saddle, the other to trip The Secretary and the guide came horse and hurl him to his death on foe back again, presently, without a pig, and black and merciless rock. And the \yea:- after we had jogged for a very little dis- and tear of the horse's gait, and the tance across the sand plain, we struck strain upon the nerves of a man, and the into a wide trail, running straightaway racking of his muscles, combine to put toward Kona, built up of small rocks put the traveler a little closer to the con- together almost as firmly as masonry, templation of the possibilities to follow and the Secretary shouted : an ill-spent life than may be altogether "The Judd road !" pleasant. This did not trouble me, of And it was true. This was the road course, but we had politicians in the that Dr. Judd, the grandfather of Judds party. and Carters and Wilders of this genera- 3-M. P 334 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Typical Kona Scenes.

tion, and himself a great statesman in We rode but for a mile or two along his time, would have built from Kona in the Judd road, and then branched off to a straight line across the island of Ha- the southward and in a little time came waii. It was meant, of course, as a road to the House of Umi, in the middle of a for horsemen and pack animals. In the great plain, where it is said that the old generation of Dr. Judd it was a great chief was wont to drill his armies. There work, and the manner of its building was room enough there to do it, in all showed that he meant it to be a monu- conscience. There would be room in that ment to him for all time. plain to fight the battle of Waterloo— It had progressed, when the flow of and then leave a few acres for the retreat 1859 came down and crossed it, to the of the French. point at which it stops now, from the One can understand, traveling over the coast a little above Kailua. At this point island of Hawaii as I have done, how it the red-hot lava boiled over it, and all was that Vancouver estimated the popu- the power and prestige of Dr. Judd, lation of these islands so high. That backed by the power of the kings, could plain where Umi's house stands must not get the natives to work upon it again. have been thickly populated, at one time. the gods were angry, and no man must There are remains of houses everywhere, build a road across there. So Dr. Judd although all the houses are gone now. had to come to a halt. Some day, how- The chiefs, indeed, would have gathered ever, there will be a road through there their people about them, probably by —although it will hardly follow the line thousands. And if water was plenty, that Dr. Judd took. In these days of there is room for thousands on that plain. wheeled vehicles, men cannot make their Straightaway from the House of roads as the crow flies, regardless of Umi we rode to the house where Dr. topography. Dr. Judd could—and, so Trousseau once dwelt alone in the wilder- far as his road went, did do that thing. ness, and we saw his old-fashioned woof THE MID-PACIFIC. 335 press here, still used by the Greenwells. forest that we traversed in a long after- Here we off-saddled, and gave to our noon, was there apparent any effort to tired horses the first good drink of water save a single tree. That was where some they had had in two days ; and here like- natives were hewing out a canoe. Every- wise we lunched upon sardines and hard where, the trees lay dead on the ground, tack. After lunch, we rode on again, or drooped over to die—like old, gray through a great forest of sandal wood, men who had passed their usefulness, and sonic of the trees of very fair size, des- for whom the world had no more care. cending gradually into a vast belt of gray Downward and still downward we koas standing in a country where the cat- rode, out of the forest and through the tle were belly-deep in lush grasses ; and rolling uplands, once and again the Kona so on down into a region of mist and fer- Plantation, and presently, after we had tility, which was Kona. stopped, and been regaled upon fresh I have said that it is a pity that the peaches grown on the place, came koa trees are being cut on the Volcano through a gate upon the Kona road along House side ! I still think that it is a pity ! the hills above Kailua, and were present- But men must be served, though the tree ly met and welcomed and made to feel that you know most intimately and love at home in a spacious house upon whose the best is slain ; and though the cutting lanai we might sit and watch the Mauna is a pity, it is not nearly so sad as the Loa sail by, and dream the sweet dreams sight of the trees in this Kona forest that of peace and plenty which, go to make up are dying, apparently from pure neglect. life in Kona, the fairest, sweetest spot in Only in one place, in all the stretch of this fair, sweet island land. 336 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Maori Greetings.

The Lovely Wanganui. Maori Superstitions BY C. F. MAXWELL

The Maoris, like many uncivilized peo- For it was at these times when sitting ples, were very superstitious, but pos- round the camp-fire that, influenced by sessed a knowledge of occult lore, and their surroundings, and knowing that no had curious customs relating to psychol- inquisitive listeners were present, who ogical matters, and the spiritual world had not been inducted into the mysteries generally. Having spent much time in of Wharekura, the red house, or lodge, the company of Maoris under all sorts of where the secrets of Maori priestcraft conditions, very often in the heart of the were imparted to candidates for instruc- dark forest, with only a few old natives tion in the mystic art, they would divulge as companions, and no Europeans within their secrets. As for myself, a mere many miles, I have had many opportuni- pakeha, I was not supposed to under- ties of listening to strange tales of war stand what was said, or if I did, it was of and slaughter, and have heard weird and no consequence. As they discussed the ancient karakias or incantations recited events which gave their tribe title to the by old tohungas, who are now long dead. lands, whose boundaries we were engag-

337 338 THE MID-PACIFIC. ed in defining, they became communica- The first navigator, Kupe, I think, was tive, and narrated many strange things his name, knew perfectly well where he relating to deeds and circumstances, was going, and made arrangements ac- which are rapidly becoming enshrouded cordingly, though where he got the in- in the mists of oblivion. formation is another matter. Some remarkable instances of mata- It is evident that up to the advent of kite, or second sight, have also come un- Christianity, the Maori tohungas were in der my observation, and, as I knew all possession of much learning of an occult the parties concerned, I was able subse- nature, which is almost totally lost. The quently to verify the correctness of the chief efforts of the missionaries were assertions of these dusky seers. The directed to discountenance anything re- tohungas, or priests, had several func- lating to their ancient and barbaric cus- tions, the principal one being the exercise toms, and as the young men were not of malignant witchcraft, by which they inducted into these mysteries, on account compassed the death or injury of those of having joined the Church of Christ, who had incurred their animosity. They when the old men died their special also undertook the performance of in- knowledge of occult subjects was lost. cantations, which ensured success in According to his adherents, the arch fishing, bird-catching, and planting food, rebel, Te Kooti, possessed the gift of and read the omens relating to war. matakite, or second sight, in a very high They were also adepts at tattooing, ca- degree, and certainly the deft way in noe-building, and were expert in the use which he foiled the efforts of the colonial of medicinal plants and herbs. It was forces to effect his capture or destruction, their province to preserve the ancestral appear to be marvelous. I have heard lore of the tribe in the form of oral tra- one of the most devoted of his adherents, dition, and jealously guard the secrets of an old Chatham Islander, describe how Wharekura, which included a knowledge Te Kooti used to predict when and where of astronomy and powers of divination they would engage the government akin to clairvoyance, possibly derived in forces, and the result of the encounter, past ages from the ancient Egyptians, a and his atua, or familiar spirit, always considerable similarity being known to "spoke truth." exist between several Maori words and I can call to mind several instances ancient Egyptian. To give one instance, where the faculty of second sight was ex- "Ra," the name of the sun in Maori, is ercised in a surprising manner. The in- identical with "Ra," the sungod of the stance I am about to relate was pathetic Egyptians. in its tragic ending. Not many years ago The Maoris have always strenuously an old tohunga was accused of having declared that it was by information and caused the death of a young native, the assistance derived from supernatural son of a chief of a tribe on the East sources that they were enabled to navi- Coast, by "makutu," or witchcraft. A gate their canoes safely and successfully meeting of the elders considered the case, from Hawaiki to New Zealand, and, in and decided that he should be put to sonic instances, to return to their native death, and a native was deputed to carry land. They have no tradition of any the sentence into execution. This man canoe setting out for New Zealand and afterwards related to me how he ap- failing to reach it, though one or two met proached the house where the old man with disaster on the coast after sighting resided with his young granddaughter. land. Gently drawing aside the wooden shutter It seems almost incredible that the which covers the opening or window in first party of voyagers should have left all Maori houses, he saw the tattooed old Hawaiki, and steered an aimless course priest sitting beside a small fire. At that over the waste of waters, finally lighting moment the old man said to his youth- upon New Zealand by chance. Personal- ful companion, "Ano iau ka pouri atoa i ly, I do not think anything of the kind. roto i tenei whare i to anaki pu," which, THE MID-PACIFIC. 339 being interpreted, signifies, "It appears to raised my hand to point it out to the me that this house is darkened inside native, it gave vent to a hideous chuckle. with powder smoke." The native said My friend bounded out of the whare, as to me : "When I heard that I knew it the Maoris have a mortal dread of rep- was an omen, and taking the rifle from tiles, and it was not until I had carried the hands of my attendant, I shot the the lizard some distance away into the tohunga through the head. We then re- forest, and liberated it, that he returned. turned to the meeting house, and re- He would not sleep, but said it was an sumed our places. They had heard the aitua, or ill omen, and sat brooding over shot, but asked no questions." I never the fire until I closed my eyes. Next heard what became of the granddaugh- morning he informed me that a leading ter, but have often seen the old man's chief of his hapu had died, and he must grave. This terrible deed occurred not return to Waiapu. We packed up and many years ago. The man who commit- left, and on Pakiakanui forest road, mid- ted it was a pleasant, kind-hearted native, way between Kawakawa and Waiapu, we and did not seem to think that he had met a party of natives. Without preface, done anything reprehensible. Nothing he said, "Mamiora is dead." They an- was done in the matter, as the whole swered, "Yes, he died last evening ; and tribe were implicated. we are going to collect the people for the Many years ago I was in the bush in tangi." My friend said, simply, "I knew the Hokianga district, a long way from it last night." A curious belief amongst the native settlement. My only compan- natives is that cooked food is a sure safe- ion was a native, a son of a noted tohun- guard against the assaults of spiritual ga. This man had a most tenacious enemies. If one chanced to encounter a memory. The name of every feature of malign spirit, or rehua, vulgarly called the locality was known to him, and in taipo, while travelling a lonely path at addition his stock of incantations, suita- night, the near approach of which could ble for every possible emergency, was always be detected by the air smelling quite inexhaustible. We were camped a warm, it was only necessary to offer it a little way from a stream, and in the even- piece of cooked food, when it would im- ing he went down to fill our can with mediately disappear. It also nullified water for tea. When he returned, he tapu, and was forbidden to be carried on said, "I have seen a Wairua (or spirit) the backs or heads of warriors, the lat- on the bank of the stream. It was a ter part being particularly sacred. woman wearing a red petticoat, and it If cooked food could be smeared on th% must be the spirit of Miriama, as she is points or edges of weapons carried by the only woman in the settlement who tauas, or war parties, it destroyed their has a red petticoat." When we returned mana, and those warriors would be de- in a few days, and reached the brow of feated. The Maori proverb being, "Kia the hill above the still distant kainga, he tupato kei tamaoka to mata ote tao ite called to the people in the olden style, and kai maoa," i. e., "Beware of contaminat- asked, "Who is dead ?" The answer came ing the point of the spear with cooked back, in the wonderfully clear and far- food." A party of natives, being belated reaching voice of the Maori, "Ko Miri- while travelling along the coast, took pos- ama." She had died on the day my session of a large whare in a deserted friend had seen the apparition at sun- kainga. About midnight one, happening down. Another time was when a Maori to wake, saw a small and hideous figure friend and myself were sitting in a small seated near the fire, regarding him intent- nikau whare near the summit of a lofty ly. He knew at once that it was a taipo, mountain near Hick's Bay, East Cape. or malignant spirit. His cries awakened By the light of our solitary candle I de- his comrades, who fell over each other in scried a huge green lizard, called kaka- their efforts to escape ; though frenzied wariki by the Maoris, on the floor of the with fear they dared not pass the fiend hut, observing us intently. When I in the doorway until one bethought him- 340 THE MID-PACIFIC.

self of the remains of their evening meal. joined by a web of skin. His face was Hastily throwing some of the food to the very much awry, and one leg shorter spectre it immediately vanished. This than the other, which made him limp, story was related by one of the party in and gained him the name of "Lame perfect seriousness. It was also extreme- Haua." We were all much afraid of him, ly injudicious to carry cooked food in it as lie had the reputation of being able canoe to a fishing ground, as the fish to bewitch people and cause their death, would desert it. Cutting up fish recently but I wanted my wedges, so I said, caught, to serve as bait for others on the "Good morning, Hape." He looked at same ground, is very wrong. It is well me, and said, "Where is your friend?" known that many fishing grounds, which I replied that I was alone. "Nonsense," were formerly highly productive, have said Hape, "I saw two persons coming been absolutely ruined by neglect of these over the sand. What do you want ?" I simple precautions, either by pakehas or said, "Someone has stolen my wedges, Maoris, who, having been brought up and I want you to help me to get them amongst Europeans, have lost all respect back." "Ah," said Hape, "I know now ; for the customs of their ancestors. what I saw following you was the shadow I will conclude by relating a story told of the man who stole your wedges ; he is me by an old Ngapuhi chief, still living, afraid, and his spirit follows you. Go showing the power of a genuine tohun- then to the Ngatihoewaka settlement, at ga : "We had been busy splitting posts the head of the bay, and tell them straight in a clump of bush, near our settlement, to give you the wedges. If they deny and left our wedges on the log for the having them, say : 'the old man sent you ; night. In the morning the wedges were if they will refuse, return to me." I missing ; someone had stolen them. I in- went at once to the settlement, and de- quired of the members of the tribe, but manded the wedges. I saw them look no one had seen them. We were per- at each other when I told them what plexed and troubled, as wedges were Hape had said, but they persisted in their scarce and expensive in those days. Sud- denial, so I went back to the tohunga, and denly, I thought of the lame priest, old told him. He said, "It is well ; the man Haua Hape, who lived by himself on a who took them is a relation of my own ; little island just beyond the settlement. he will be smitten with a lingering illness. At low water one could walk right out He mate kawenga roa." I went home, to the island dry footed, so when the tide and told my people what Hape had said. edded I started off across the sands to- Shortly afterwards, a young man, related wards the little hut. When I got near to Hape, was taken ill, and one morning I could see the tohunga sitting at his but the wedges were left at the door of our door, sunning himself ; he was watching house by someone. But it was no use ; me, and waved his hand, calling Haere- the man died after a long sickness, but mai ! haeremai ! I must tell you that old before he died he confessed that he had Hape was not a nice-looking old gentle- taken the wedges. After that we were man. He had been severely burnt in his more frightened than ever of the lame youth, and one arm was crooked, and priest. Afterglow BY DIXIE FORT

The flame of color on mountain and The man who sat alone was missing sea, struck by old Sol from the jeweled the twilight, though he could not have Isles of Hawaii, was fast fading into the told why. Terror and acute pangs of hunger had weakened his once powerful smoke-gray of evening. At the swift frame, still, while the sun shone bright, gathering of the army of night-clouds he had gone daily upon his quest, pa- on the mountain peaks back of the city tiently, cautiously, battling with the fears of Honolulu and their hurried descent that beset him, at every suspicious glance, down the ridges to overwhelm the last and shrinking from the pitying curiosity pale rays of sunlight, a sense of hopeless- of those who denied him work ; and even ness crept into the heart of an old man, this night, though well nigh spent, he who sat alone, on a ledge of rock, half- had set out bravely upon his evening way up a hillside, and felt; rather than climb to the top of the hill, where he was saw, that sudden closing of the day, to sure of a shelter and could brew his bit which many of longer tropical residence of tea. When the sudden nightfall than he, remain unreconciled. gloomed his path, he sunk down wearily

341 342 THE MID-PACIFIC.

and found no strength with which to The coat was indeed of thick wool, and continue his way. Dumbly he felt that looked the heavier for the number of night had overtaken him and that there patches which had been generously but was to be no twilight ! neatly applied. As the girl nodded When the old man arose, it was so good-by and ran lightly down the trail, painfully and stiffly that he would have her pink dress fluttering like a graceful fallen but for the quick support of a moth through the dusk, the man glanced young woman, who appeared as if by over these patches and even in the an- magic, beside him. He leaned heavily guish of his hunger and fear and misery, against her. felt grateful to his sailmakers' trade that "I'm sorry I startled you !" she said. he had not been found in rags by this "I was running down the path and didn't gentle woman, who had spoken the only notice you as I came round the bend. friendly, personal words he had heard If you will take my arm, we can go down since leaving his one, dear daughter. a shorter way. You see, it's getting As he toiled on through the darkness, quite dark, now." his thoughts dwelt upon Helen ; he went "It's good of you, miss, but I'm not over again and again the words of her going down just yet." letter : "Oh, I beg your pardon," the girl an- Dear Pa :—I don't know as you will swered quickly, and flushed a deeper pink feel very bad to hear John is dead. But at the repulse. "Good night, then." I know you are not holding it up against The man resumed his slow ascent up me for the mean way he acted to you. the zig-zag trail, but had gone only a I'm all alone now and I want you to short distance when he felt a light touch come back. I've got a good job in a hat on his arm, and saw that the girl had store and I am strong and well, but it followed him. "I'm afraid you will get bothers me awful to have to leave the wet, for there is rain gathering in the children with the neighbors. Now, Pa, valleys, and there are no houses up on you are getting along in years so as you the hill." ought to quit that work. We can be so "It's good of you," the old man said happy if you will only come home and again, monotonously. "Us old folks need keep the kids and be my jolly old Dad to walk, ye know, and I've got a right like you used to ! Don't you remember heavy coat." what fun you and me had, going fishing THE MID-PACIFIC. 343 together, and sailing those little sticks in nations could he seen dimly, among them the ditch? the mast of the Australian ship "Dorcas," My ! Jackie and Madge would be most loomed a crucifix before the old man's crazy i f you was to come home ! I only gaze, and suddenly overcome by his ex- feel bad to think I can't send you the haustion and the anguish of the thought money so as you could come right off, that she who needed him would never and never get foot on one of those ships know why her father had failed to return again, but you take the first chance to to her, he put his face to the ground and ship on something coming this way and gave himself up to bitter tears. then you can buy off in San Francisco, * * * * * can't you ? Oh, Pa, it's shameful you've "Yes ! Just as I thought! there's a tin had to work alone way off there all these dipper and a little paper of tea in the years, but you know I could not help it cave, and oh, Ralph ! the dryest crust of before, but now I can, and I do need you bread! When Minnie told me they had so much, you will try to come soon as seen him coming up the trail every ever you can, won't you ? night for more than a week, I felt sure "I need you, I need you," the simple he must be sleeping here. The idea of words made, to him a beautiful song that thinking the poor old man might be a had sung itself through his mind and thief—Pm surprised they couldn't see he brought up happy pictures of a home- was faint with hunger even if he asked li fe which he had hungered for so long! only for a cup of water." To be home again with Helen, his baby ! "Hush, Nan ! I think he's coming to The eight years .of rough work aboard —give me that flask again !" ship in Australian waters ; the humilia- The sound of voices reached the old tion and abuse to which that life had man's consciousness like the unintelligi- subjected him ; the bitter remembrance ble trailing off of an unpleasant dream ; that his daughter's husband had wished for one frightened instant, he quivered him out of the way and had procured with the fear that the torture of the night for him the work he dared not refuse, might be real, then, reassured by the cer- which had taken him, like an exile to tainty that he was safe in his own bed at those Southern Seas : all this was to have home, he lay with closed eyes and smiled. been forgotten in the joy of his return. On his left was the door which led out on His feet dragging wearily, he reached the side lanai and into the garden ; two the head of the trail and with an exhaust- windows, prettily curtained, were in the ing effort climbed the steep rock, from wall opposte, the large picture of Mar- which each night he had peered eagerly garet hung between them : how like her toward the harbor to see that which he mother Helen grew ! the dear child was so desperately feared to find ! Below almost a woman. He stretched himself him, the city of Honolulu lay serene, un- lazily and wondered why his pet Tabby, abashed by the terrors of the night. who always slept at his feet, did not Myriad lights blinked a cheerful defiance grunt her usual dissatisfaction at being to the dark conqueror, and torches of disturbed. He opened his eyes and made the native fishermen flickered along the a motion to sit up. dim shore-line. Now and then a dog "There, you are better now ! Don't barked shrilly or the sound of a hurrying move, you must rest a little while. My wagon came up through the stillness. husband is building a fire and perhaps Peace and happiness with Helen and when you have had some thing hot to Jackie and Madge ! Oh, agony ! he had drink, you will feel able to come down put them from him by the rash action of to our house. You see I'm quite bent on a single moment ! Why had that passion taking you down the trail, after all." lain dormant through long years of pa- A lantern lit up the pink figure and tient humility, only to overwhelm him sweet face that leaned above him, and his at such a time. mind wrestled with the images of win- Far away spars of vessels of many dows, door and picture which he felt 344 THE MID-PACIFIC.

must grow out of the darkness about procured for him, at a good wage, writ- him. But the blackness did not clear and ing happily to Helen that he would soon slowly the truth came back. continue his way to her. He uttered no word as husband and The days that followed formed, in wife ministered to him and silently suf- every way but one, the brightest period fered them to lead him down the path of his life. His work of sewing harness to their home, where the slight nourish- and tarpaulins was not arduous and each ment he could endure in his weakened night and morning he worked joyfully in state served to renew the gnawing pangs Nan's garden to repay her for the room of hunger, and so caused him a physical in her servants' house which she insisted unrest that gave surcease to the torture upon his using. Neither she nor Ralph of his mind. In a few days he had re- had questioned his story of having been gained his strength and knew that he dismissed on sick leave from one of the must soon reply to the question which all coast boats, but he wondered if they ob- the kindness of his benefactors could not served that he avoided the wharves and banish from their eyes. Not daring to if they thought it strange that he did not ask if the dreaded "Dorcas" had sailed, now go to Helen, of whom he had not he made the excuse of needing to exer- been able to forbear speaking to Nan. cise and once more climbed the winding His deceit troubled him and a hundred trail and gazed anxiously toward the har- times he would have confessed but for bor. She had gone ! Relief lent wings the fear of bringing all his new hopes to to his return and the next morning he disaster. Though nothing occurred to began the work which his friends had alarm h:m as the weeks passed, still he THE MID-PACIFIC. 345 was unable to learn anything that would over the rail. Glauber started in to abuse lift the shadow which hung heavy upon him and from what I know of the mean his spirit, and he realized that he could little shyster, I was mortal glad to hear never go from Hawaii and leave this that the sailor swung up his tin box and dread uncertainty behind. gave him a good one. It stunned him So it happened that the close of a love- and he keeled over and as he was com- ly Saturday afternoon some two months ing to, he heard the old sailmaker breath- later, found the old man bending over ing hard and muttering little snatches of the border plant that lined the path lead- prayer and Glauber saw that he was ing to Nan's pretty arbor. frightened silly by what he thought he'd His thoughts running on pleasantly, done and the mean little rat thought he'd the man did not notice the voices which give him a good scare and make a hard proceeded from the arbor, where Nan case against him, too, for he didn't doubt and Ralph sat talking with an acquain- the man would fetch someone to help re- tance, until a name he knew fell upon vive hint ! so he lay stone-still, but after a his ear. moment he pretended to come to a little, --- No end of trouble, settling so's he could see what was going on, and that 'Dorcas' affair. The accident was I guess he thought he was hoodooed, for the sailor had vanished completely and largely the captain's fault, but we wanted all Glauber's searching didn't unearth to keep out of the papers, so we offered him. He was hot on the trail too, posted to assume the expense of her damages, but by George ! if they didn't try to bluff the usual notices round the wharves— us into paying for her whole dum cargo offered a reward—he hoped he'd get because she had to lay up here for the starved out and wou:d come around for repairs. Oh, it was a disgusting busi- work, but I don't sec myself selling a down-and-out beggar for ten dollars !" ness, all through. The captain wasn't sober half the time and he had a fresh "That is so interesting," Nan's sweet youngster, named Glauber—first mate, I voice quivered, tense with excitement. guess—tending to things for him. Say, "You said the sailmaker was old ? I'll Ralph, of all the mean little donkeys I come back in one moment—I want to ever had to deal with, this Glauber was speak with my gardener." the worst—and he was actually proud of The old man stood erect : his worn felt his meanness ! Told me a yarn that most hat, which he had unconsciously removed any man would have been ashamed to as if in reverence to the Power that had confess to : seems there was a sailmaker at last answered his unceasing appeal, aboard who wanted to get home to was held up against his breast, both Frisco and he'd shipped with the'Dorcas' hands grasping its brim ; his head was because she was bound for there, but bowed. when she pulled in here, there was a cable for her that the cargo had been re-sold "Don't take it so hard, please, don't ! and she was to make some port down in Come and sit on the porch for I want Chili, to deliver it. Well, that was a to tell you something. Drink this bit of blow to the sailmaker and he came out brandy to brace you up ! You can go to fair and frank and wanted to get his dis- Helen tomorrow and don't think of the charge here. But seems sailors don't get past. I think God sent you to keep me their pay till they reach their destination, from being selfish. Ralph and I and just so's they don't quit, and Glauber did Roy-Boy have been so happy alone that a lot of tall swearing about deserting sea- I wouldn't ask our old father to live men and said he'd see to it that this man with us but let him wander about, spend- was made an example. The man took it ing his money in travel and living with all quiet enough but along in the middle a lonely heart. But by watching your of the night, Glauber came on the poor pleasure in Roy-Boy and hearing you wretch with his things packed in a little talk of going home to Helen, I've learned tin box, and he was just putting a leg what it means to an old man to live with 346 THE MID-PACIFIC.

those he loves, and I want you never to steamed out of the channel, an old man forget, when you are happy with Helen, leaned upon the rail of the second deck that you, yourself, were the means of and looked back across the waters to the bringing this happiness to another, an hill which had been his refuge and old man who was dear to us. watched it as it faded away with the A boat sailed at sundown and as she afterglow. Home Life in Japan BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

The home life of the Japanese im- least once a day. True, it is immaterial presses the average civilized stranger to him whether he takes his bath in pub- visiting the island kingdom as the most lic or private, our code of modesty being cleanly, refined, and altogether happy unknown in the Far East. But even in form of existence in the world. The the public baths, where men, women, and spotless floor mats which cover the ver- children mingle together in perfect inno- min-infested filth beneath give no out- cence, the most rigorous etiquette is ob- ward sign of what the Japanese house- served. Ceremonial bows are exchanged, keeping has so carefully hidden from men and women clasp their own hands, view. The sanitary arrangements, deft bow low to each other many times, and in design, would cause any American of abuse their own relatives while praising a refined sense of smell to vacate the those of the friend to whom they are premises, but the Japanese, having prac- speaking, as is the custom in Japan. tically no olfactory organs, observe no Everywhere in the daily life ceremony odor ; therefore the accumulations of and exaggerated forms of politeness are filth, if hidden, have no objectionable fea- carried to an extreme. There is no low tures, unless typhus or cholera should be class in Japan as we understand the term raging, and then the government takes a in civilized countries. Every Japanese, hand and there is a general house-clean- whether five years of age or fifty, reveres ing in the affected district. his parents if living and adores them if Despite the fact that their entire life dead. That is the religion of the country. is a mass of contradictions and flaring Early training is not apt to be forgot- incongruities, the Japanese are the clean- ten, consequently the humblest as well liest, most refined, and happiest people as the proudest and most wealthy mei- on the face of the globe. It is safe to of Japan are apt to have the same out- say that every Japanese bathes himself at wardly ever-polite mannerisms. 347 348 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Force of habit becomes second nature, Those who visit Japan casually inva- so that today in Japan it is the most nat- riably become enthusiastic over the won- ural thing in the world for the people to derful and artistic little people ; those be polite under the most trying circum- who remain there for a prolonged period stances. I have known stable business as a rule have nothing good to say of men of Kyoto to give American traveling their moral character ; while those who men large orders for goods merely to have lived among them, learned their avoid giving a refusal that the persistent manners and customs, and speak their drummer would take to heart. Of course language are almost as enthusiastic over the merchant never intended to take the the ideal life of the Japanese as is the goods ; he merely desired to make the casual tourist who sees only the brilliant guest, while under his roof at least, feel kaleidoscopic picture ever changing be- comfortable. fore his eyes. With the same object in view, my Japanese character is different from rickshctze, man, when I sounded him to Chinese, chiefly because the Japanese discover if he was a Christian, cautiously have always hated their continental rivals but politely asked me if I was, then ad- and for centuries sought to do every- mitted most effusively that he was a thing differently. If the Chinese dressed good Christian, wormed from me the loosely, the Japanese adopted tights ; name of the denomination I preferred, when the Chinaman was forced by the and declared that it was also his choice. Manchu to grow a queue, the Jap ton- He seemed to enjoy visiting with me the sured his head. The Chinamen ignored foreign churches, always prayed in them their girl children ; for two thousand most effusively, and if there happened years the Japanese have educated their to be a Shinto temple adjacent would offspring of both genders, and it is the visit that in turn to offer up additional public school system of Japan, which was prayers. It is this misplaced regard for in operation during the lifetime of Christ, the feelings of others that leads the easy- that has prepared the nation for the won- going Japanese, who enjoys nothing bet- derful progress toward civilization and ter than to please every one, into errors power it is now making. of judgment which too often make him There have been civil wars and cruel despised by the business man and dis- revolutions in Japan, but the home life trusted by the missionary. has always been pure, even when com- THE MID-PACIFIC. 349

pared with the standard reached by civi- in "bad form" in Japan, as in certain lized nations. It is true that polygamy ultra-civilized communities with us, is has been and is practiced, although now worse than to be really criminal. Dur- forbidden by the new laws ; but we have ing my last visit to Tokyo a little notice in America married men whose behavior was sent out by the police requesting citi- suggests that no stones should be thrown. zens not to follow strangers who visited In no country of the world has the the city, as it was impolite. The Japa- head official such influence over the home nese, the most inquisitive people on the life of his people as has the Mikado. The face of the globe, curbed their curiosity, Shinto religion, the faith of the masses, and foreigners were thereafter permitted is nothing more than a belief in God, to make purchases at their pleasure and from whom is descended primarily the visit sacred shrines in undisturbed peace. Mikado, and incidentally all Japanese, The Japanese child is taught• first his who all return to their Maker after death, duty to his Emperor, next his duty to and for that reason are worshipped in his parents, and last his duty to his every household of Japan as departed neighbor. In fact, a ceremonial form of saints, the family altar, with its dolls rep- politeness may be said to constitute the resenting ancestors who have gone be- moral code of Japan. The parent be- fore, being the Japanese equivalent of the gins to teach his child, before it can talk, family shrine in Roman Catholic coun- politeness in all its phases and the cere - tries, or the ikon, or holy picture, to be monies which have been invented for al- found in every Russian house. most every necessary act in life, from the As the direct descendant of God, the cradle to the grave. laws of the Mikado, or Emperor, as he is At the head of the home life is the now called, must be obeyed. It is "bad father, unless, perhaps, his aged mother form" in Japan to violate a law of the lives, in which case she is the autocrat land, even if not found out, and to be of the family circle, there being no ap-

4-M. P. 350 THE MID-PACIFIC.

peals from her decisions. Age is sacred Three months after a child is born in in Japan, and no son would dare disobey Japan its first birthday is celebrated, and a mother's commands. Too often, if the it is then one year of age. After that aged father still lives, he is off on a pil- all the boys in Japan have one general grimage to the sacred shrines of both the birthday and the girls another, so that Buddhist and Shinto faiths. often a youngster in Japan finds himself In Japan marriages are arranged and two years of age before he would be take place at an early age. By the time four months old in any other country. a man has reached his prime—forty or The home life of the very young chil- forty-five years of age—he has grown dren is not unlike that of our own. sons enough to support him, and, as this Countless dolls fall to the little ones, and is considered their privilege as well as ingenious toys, made familiar to us since duty, the father promptly follows the cus- Japan has been opened to our commerce, tom of the country and retires to enjoy beguile much of their time. It takes six idleness and travel in his declining years. years to learn to read a Japanese book, The government is now seeking to alter so the little ones are sent to kindergarten this custom, suggesting to male parents at a very tender age ; here they learn the that they wait until the age of fifty before simple forms of the Japanese alphabet and retiring from active labors ; but the older play games requiring mathematical exer- men desire rest and the younger genera- cise. Often the larger girls—say from tion opportunity, so that no headway is eight to fourteen years of age—will car- being made in the reform movement. ry their little brothers or sisters to kin- Few Japanese are childless ; in fact, it dergarten on their backs, and then go on is a disgrace to pass through life with- to school themselves. In all the large out offspring; consequently there are, cities there are public schools where sew- practically, no native orphan asylums in ing, housekeeping, and many other Japan, it being an honor desired by every branches of domestic science are taught, one in the village to be given the custody so that the Jap girl makes a most ex- of any children left without parents. In cellent wife and mother. the case of a boy, he is adopted by his The houses in Japan are invariably new father, and, should he be older than open to the four winds, so that any one any of the real offspring, takes preced- may see and examine. Built of wood and ence over them, and at the death of his plaster, these artistic-looking two-story adopted father becomes the real head of dwellings do not give an impression of the family, whom all the others must strength ; in fact, on the mountain sides obey. —and almost all of Japan is mountainous THE MID-PACIFIC. 351

—when the monsoon comes in the spring storm of the perfumed pink flowers falls the people stay at home, for their ser- with every breeze. vices are needed during the storm. The Every one is happy in Japan when great sliding walls of the house, made spring conies. After the children have of wooden frames covered with tough had their day of joy, the parents shut up oil-paper, are tightly closed against the shop for two more days and spend the time in the parks about the temple, for storm, and must be kept so, for, in the in Japan the public playgrounds are in- case of one-story houses especially, separably associated with religion. should the wind get in under the roof, After the Cherry Festival is over, every little would be left of the building. one returns to his home duties. Home The frequent earthquakes militate life and business life are often one and against the adoption of our modern style the same in Japanese towns and villages, of architecture in brick and stone, while for every one works, and usually the frequent fires necessitate the construction home is also factory and workshop. In of solid out-houses of plaster, in which the day-time the front of the house is the family jewels and works of art are open ; here the trinkets or useful articles stored. manufactured by the family in the great In the larger houses is always to be room behind the courtyard are displayed found a central courtyard, in which for sale ; upstairs the sliding partitions dwarf trees are grown in great vases, are thrown back and the heavy counter- while in front of every house, no matter panes taken up off the floor and hidden how humble, are to be seen the inevitable away in unobservable drawers, so that cherry tree and a few chrysanthemum the bedroom becomes a parlor. bushes. The ceremony of arranging if the house is near one of the innu- flowers is a most important and artistic merable mountain streams of the country, one. Every guest at a Japanese home water power is brought into use, and is expected to know how to give that deft at the rear of the house a great water- turn to the stern of a lily that will make wheel turns slowly day after day. Now- the flower appear at its best, to twist the adays electrical equipment is made in leaves in accord with the native rules these humble homes of Japan, and in the of art, and to arrange the whole in a great long streets of shops to be seen in manner suggestive of the season ; he any city of the Mikado's Empire an in- knows just what is expected of him the ventor of some new electrical device may moment the flowers are placed by his be experimenting in one of the dainty side, and seeks to win the admiration of little doll houses—for the doors are often his host. Art is the keynote of every too low to admit an American, unless he form of ceremony, and with the Japanese stoops—while in the next perhaps a artistic arranging of plants and flowers whole family is turning pottery, the mak- is almost a part of their religion. In fact, ing of which has been a secret handed the greatest holiday of the year is the down from father to son for more than Cherry Festival, or Japanese Easter. All a thousand years. The famous cloisonné work is suspended for the time being. we prize so much in America is made The first day is given over to the chil- in two or three rooms of a Japanese dren ; down avenues lined on either side home, one such place in Yokohama being with cherry trees in full blossom proces- called a factory because two or three sions of little girls haul by long ropes men not belonging to the family are em- great temples on wheels, Japanese boys ployed as assistants. A million women in richest costumes give religious Tlays still weave on hand-looms cotton cloth in the moving temples, and all the world that competes in price with the British of Japan looks on in joy. Along the fabric in China. Unfortunately for roads, inch deep in the soft fallen petals Japan, however, the artistic is giving of the cherry blossom, the procession way to the commercial. Already hun- makes its way, while a perfect snow- dreds of cotton-mills have been estab- 352 THE MID-PACIFIC. lished, and soon cloisonné and satsuma Foreign customs are gradually making will be manufactured by machinery. The headway, although as far as dress is con- artistic Japanese characters are to be cerned the Japanese woman has abolished for the unsightly Roman let- triumphed and the European abomina- ters, and only those who have experi- tions are in pronounced disfavor, while enced the delight of reading in Japanese the men who attend court in swallow- or Chinese, in which every word sign re- tails return home hurriedly to exchange calls a living picture, can realize what a the uncomfortable costume for the soft loss the nation will sustain. The strange- looking characters lend themselves to ar- but clinging kimona. Children are no tistic groupings impossible with cold longer tonsured, while young girls per- Roman type, so that the thousands of mit their hair to hang about their shoul- advertisements one meets with on the ders, a custom far more becoming than roadsides and telegraph poles of Japan, the prim pomaded mass usually worn on far from being disfigurements to the sur- top of the head. In eating there is also roundings, blend most artistically. In an evolution. While the Japanese do not Japan babies almost in arms are taught yet take kindly to vegetables and disdain to be useful, and at an incredibly early the fruit-growing cherry tree—because age they become adept at shredding bam- its blossoms are inferior—they are be- boo, or even cutting out paper for the ginning to eat meat despite the rigorous making of lanterns, although the electric laws of the Buddhist religion, which with light is now superseding the paper lan- the simpler Shinto practically forms the terns in the home of the city-bred Jap. national faith of Japan. The Defense of Hawaii BY BRIG. GEN'L JOHN H. SOPER, N. G. H. RETIRED.

Some of the National Guard.

The United States has entered upon a could be harrassed, commerce destroyed more complete and extensive scheme for and a landing effected from a secure base the defense of the Hawaiian Islands within easy striking d'stance of the cities than for any other portion of its domain. of Seattle, San Francisco and Los An- So complete will be the chain of fortifi- geles. cations and equipment, that the Island of Many millions of dollars have already Oahu will be as impregnable as Gibral- been appropriated by Congress for the tar or the Island of Malta, and in no re- fortifications on the Island of Oahu, for spect inferior in its equipment. Indeed, dredging its harbors, erecting light- it will probably be the strongest fortified houses and making topographical sur- island in the world. veys, and many more millions of dollars Few will realize what a vast undertak- will eventually be appropriated and spent ing this is or the millions of dollars and for the same purpose, but the magnitude years of unremitting labor required to of the undertaking is only realized by accomplish the result sought. That the taking into consideration the formation Island of Oahu must be made impreg- and size of the island, which is approxi- nable is unquestionably necessary because mately twelve miles wide and forty miles of its isolation and strategic value to the long, with about one hundred and thirty United States, particularly for the pro- miles of coastline to protect, and the fact, tection of the Pacific Coast States ; for, that in spite of the coral reefs surround- with the Hawaiian Islands in the posses- ing the island, landings may be made at sion of an enemy, the entire Pacific Coast many places along the entire coast.

353 354 THE MID-PACIFIC.

. llery i t d Ar l Fie THE MID-PACIFIC. 355

All of this work is being carried on rap- of Hawaii has had its camps of instruc- idly, but quietly, without any ostentation tion for officers and for the enlisted men, or display by the United States Army and the reports of officers of the Regular and Navy, each at its own appointed Service show that they have done excep- task. Topographical surveys are being tionally good work and are to be ranked made, fortifications built, harbor lines along with the best organizations of the straightened and drydocks constructed, States. The work in these camps of in- while upon lands formerly barren and struction in very exacting, taking every literally covered with volcanic rocks, minute of daylight and well into the night beautiful reservations have been made, in study in the classroom and rough, with grassy lawns, beautiful trees, and hard work over many miles of territory, finely macadamized roads, all greatly so that each night those participating adding to the attractiveness of the island. therein have been well tired. But so The fortifications now in progress of zealous have they been that with the com- construction are on the south side of the ing of the new day they have been ready island, extending from Diamond Head, and anxious for the work of the day. an extinct volcano, to Pearl Harbor, with- Since the last camp of instruction, Cap- in which could be safely anchored the tain W. H. Johnson, 25th U. S. Infantry, navies of the world. These fortifications detailed for duty with the National will consist of batteries of twelve and Guard, has instituted a correspondence fourteen-inch guns and mortars. In time school for officers in Honolulu, where the line of fortifications will be extended they are getting further theoretical in- well along to the west end of the island. struction along the lines of their theo- The defense of the island is much sim- retical and practical instruction in the plified by the fact that a precipitous camps. They will later have tactical mountain range runs close to the shore walks and terrain exercises under Cap- on the north side of the island, and while tain Johnson, so that they will be able to this mountain range is not impassable, it apply the instruction now being received constitutes a serious obstacle to the pas- in the class to problems on the ground. sage of troops. Being so near to the How thorough this instruction is may be shore line, this range of mountains with readily seen from a brief description of a small force would make the landing of the class work they are doing in what is troops on the north side of the island ex- commonly termed the "War Game." tremely hazardous, if not impossible. Having no standing army commen The defenses when complete will prob- surate with our population, resources and ably require as a minimum force 10,000 standing as one of the great powers of men. This force will not be furnished the world, and with the certainty that entirely by the United States Army, but our people will never consent to the will include the National Guard of Ha- establishment of a large regular army, waii, which upon the completion of its the inevitable conclusion is, that in the new armory will be increased to one full event of war, Uncle Sam must depend regiment of infantry, one signal com- mainly on the organized militia and pany and one company of sanitary troops volunteers. It would therefore seem that in Honolulu. no argument should be required to sup- The average citizen knows but little of port the statement that the larger and what the militia in his own city, State, or more efficient the militia organization is, Territory is doing day after day and year the less danger of disaster at the begin- after year to become and remain efficient ning of hostilities, and the less cost in in order to perform its function when blood and treasure during an entire cam- called upon by either the State, Territory paign. or Federal government. Camps of in- Great Britain's experiences in South struction are held wherein the officers Africa conclusively proved that thou- and men are instructed by officers of the sands of untrained men sent out were at Regular Service. The National Guard the start worse than useless, as they had 356 THE MID-PACIFIC.

to be taken care of by trained ones un- of the legislature, as was done by the til they had been broken in to take care of Chamber of Commerce of Honolulu for themselves and during that process of the years 1905-1906 and 1906-1907, breaking in, a greater number died of where the legislature had refused to ap- disease in field and hospital than were propriate, and the Federal Government killed in battle, and these conditions were had suggested a special session of the largely duplicated during our war with legislature for the sole purpose of making Spain. such appropriation for the militia. In General Jackson's time the Ameri- When such men as General McArthur cans were called a nation of riflemen ; and General Wood urge in the strongest but how many men in the United States manner the advisability of increasing the of this day and generation would be National Guard of Hawaii, both in num- qualified to meet and defeat such veteran bers and efficiency, to act as an auxiliary troops as Jackson's men encountered at force to the Federal troops in case of war, New Orleans ? we may well heed their advice and pay The argument is advanced that we are little attention to the criticisms men- now United States territory, and that the tioned, which seem to be based on the United States government must protect assumption, that we as citizens of the us. Shall we be so ignoble as to demand United States, are under no obligation to that the Federal Government send militia do anything to assist in the defense of and volunteers from Maine, Texas, Cali- our homes, our country and flag, but can fornia, Oregon or Washington, in order depend on Uncle Sam to send militia and that we and our families and property volunteers from Maine, Texas, Califor- shall be afforded the protection that we nia, Oregon or Washington to take care are not willing to lift our hands to assist of us. in securing? As a matter of fact there is no State One critic of the National Guard of in the Union where a well brained and Hawaii says that the individual states efficient national guard would be of such need something in the way of an army, value—man for man—to the Federal but that this Territory does not need an Government in the event of war, as right army any more than it needs a navy, here on this island of Oahu. that our National Guard of Hawaii is of The volunteer who has had no military no use at all, and in any event that the training, where he goes into camp for the United States troops can take care of any first time, is absolutely useless for any local disturbances. This last point is ad- military duty, but he must be equipped mitted only as to their capability to take with a modern high powered rifle, which care of things, but this argument is just he will not know how to handle, load nor as true in Massachusetts and Maine, as shoot. He will not know whether the it is here if they were permitted so to do. gun can be sighted for 2000 yards or two They would no more be permitted here miles ; he will know as little aoout sani- than there, without a first resort to and a tation cooking or any of the ordinary bona fide attempt by our local civil and camp duties of a soldier. military authorities to control such local Still no matter how ignorant he may disturbances, and if our legislature were be of a soldier's duties, he will require to cut off the appropriation for our mili- the same equipment, the same transpor- tia, in the expectation that the regular tation and probably four times as much forces would be used in the first instance medical attention as a trained man would in local troubles, the Federal Government need, at least, until he had either died in would again as it did on a former occa- camp, or had pulled through to become a sion. suggest that a special session of fairly efficient soldier after months of the legislature be called to make an ap- experience, but it is safe to say, that dur- propriation therefor, unless other means ing those months of preparation, he will could be devised for the maintenance of be a vastly greater burden to his offi- the militia until the next regular session cers than if he had had some previous THE MID-PACIFIC. 357 training in the militia, when he certainly "Officers are detailed to command would have learned to look after himself troops, which are represented on the map in the field, and in many instances would by little cardboard blocks and pins. One have been taken care of better than at side is called the Red and the other the home. Blue. These forces are supposed to belong We should have not less than three to imaginary governments which are thousand men in this Territory with suf- at war. Before the game the instructor ficient military training and experience must work through the problem from to enable them to take the field without both sides to be sure that he is giving delay when called on, and who should, in situations that possibly could exist on the the hands of experienced officers prove ground represented by the map. Condi- to be a fairly efficient force whose coop- tions must be brief. First we have what eration would be welcomed by the regu- is called a general situation, which is in- lars, in time of trouble. formation relative to the supposed state With the "Tactical Walks," "Corre- of war that both the opposing forces spondence School" and "Map Maneuv- would know as a matter of course. ers," conducted by Capt. Walter H. John- "This information is furnished to both son, the United States Army officer re- the Red and the Blue leaders. Then we cently detailed as inspector-instructor of have special situations for each stage of the organized militia in Hawaii, supple- the maneuvers that are from time to time mented by the periodical camps of in- disclosed to one side or the other. struction, there will be little doubt of a Upon receiving the general situation rapid increase in the numbers and effi- and the first special situation the officers ciency of the militia, provided that a detailed to act as leaders of the hostile decent and well equipped armory can be forces retire to other rooms and there secured for them, otherwise there is little plan on a map much smaller than this hope of any great increase in the number just how they will handle the troops un- of enlisted men, although those who are der their orders. While this is going on in the guard will certainly improve under the director of the game sets forth to the expert instruction now being im- the officers not actually in the play, or the parted to them. observers, as they are termed, the full Captain Johnson thus describes the conditions under which both sides are to war game or map maneuvers : work. Thus the interest of the observing "The war game or as we now term it, officers is aroused and discussion at once map maneuvers is a method of military begins as to what the Reds or the Blues instruction that has within the last ten had better do. Such discussion is of it- years been taken up in earnest through- self of great value. out the service. • "The given time having passed for the "It is now not only a study of the line leaders of both sides to formulate their class and the staff class at Fort Leaven- plans, one side or the other is called in, worth, but also a part of nearly every say first the Reds. In the presence of post graduate course at each military the director and the observers the leader post. To explain briefly how, let me of that side is required to state what or- show you on our maps. ders he has given and what he plans to "Now, any map can be used that is of do. His troops are then put upon the scale sufficiently large to show details of map—that is, the cardboard blocks to the ground—say twelve inches to one scale, and the pins, etc., are placed as he mile—but for purpose of this kind, a mili- has ordered. No remarks relative to his tary map is better. I mean by that, one dispositions are made at this time, wheth- which shows all the features by certain er he makes tactical errors or not. The conventional signs familiar to all military Red leader now retires to his own room men. and the Red troops are covered or re- "Thus such a map as this represents moved from the board, and the Blue the ground upon which a certain combat leader is called to give his initial orders or maneuvers are supposed to take place. likewise. 358 THE MID-PACIFIC.

"Thus the game progresses, the sides or not a decision as to which side is the being being called in alternately. No winner is rendered depends largely upon move is made on the map unless actually the skill and military judgment shown ordered by one of the leaders, and each by the leaders and the conditions of the movement can only cover so much of the problem. map as troops could march in the time "Simple problems are the most in- allowed. For instance, we allow infan- structive, provided they are thoroughly try to cover, say, from two and a half to worked out in detail. They are always three miles per hour, depending upon the far more instructive than those based on given conditions of the roads. For every complicated situations that often lead to movement made the leader of each side absurdities. The officers of the First explains to the observers and the director Infantry, N. G. H., assembled here last his military reasons, asking the director Thursday night, and we played a little such questions relative to conditions as patrol problem until nearly 10 p. m., and he may desire, the former always retain- continued the problem to next Thursday. ing the right, however, to decline to an- From the way they went at it and from swer, if it is possible for the leader to the interest shown, I think some of the work out the answer himself. Thus a officers who were absent will find that player may wish to know whether, when they are missing something. his forces reach a certain hill, he will be "In the discussion after these prob- able to see some crossroad or farmhouse lems we go into considerable detail and, near which he has reason to believe his in fact, do not attempt even to avoid repe- enemy is located. Such a question tition, for briefness readily leads to mis- would, no doubt, cause a smile round the understanding. This system of instruc- board, for if the player knows how to tion, using small forces only, is far better read the military map he should be able than the old school idea of plain ques- to work out the answer himself. tions and answers, for no officer can play "So step by step the forces draw closer his part properly in a map maneuver, to each other, and under the conditions even when using the smallest forces, of some problems actually reach the com- without a fair knowledge of his text- bat stage. The time used in every move- books and some ability to read a map. ment is recorded as the play goes along. The game is a constant review and be- All messages and orders sent or issued comes more than a review as the size of are actually written, and the time it would the units brought into play increase. take to deliver them correctly calculated. Another point that one notices at once If one side directs fire to be opened upon when dealing with map maneuvers is that the other, the proper commands for such no officer cares to show up at the game fire must be given. Thus an officer is before his brother officers short of knowl- put through almost an actual duplicate of edge he is supposed to have. Only three what his thoughts, plans and actions or four play at a time while the rest look would be were he, in fact, on the field. on, and the officers who find themselves "When the forces reach, or are sup- weak on one subject or another soon see posed to reach, the combat stage, the play that the game exposes their lack of goes much slower than would actually be knowledge and they promptly study up the case sometimes, for every detail must their subjects. That sort of study is be noted and kept in mind. It is, as a worth far more than mere preparation rule, well for the director to close the play for recitation. Again, a mistake made before the last stages of the combat and in the war maneuver is every time a les- then to give a brief summary, both lead- son learned and no one hurt, while the ers being present, of what has taken same mistake in field service might also place on both sides, thus lifting the fog he a lesson learned but with, perhaps, of war, as it were, and pointing out such others than paper soldiers killed." errors and lost opportunities as were It is with pleasure that I read the shown during the maneuver. Whether words of commendation uttered by vete- THE MID-PACIFIC. 359

The Camp, Leilehua. ran officers of the United States Army which had once been the richest and fair- for the energy, intelligence and patriot- est on earth. ism displayed by those Hawaiians, who, And they understood too late that it is as officers and men of the National a law of heaven that the world is given Guard of Hawaii, have attended the to the hardy and to the self-denying, schools of instruction. It is an appre- whilst he who would escape the duties ciation that counts for much, coming as of manhood will soon be stripped of the it does from those whose business it is to pride, the wealth, and the power, which read men, size them up and determine are the prizes which manhood brings." their physical and mental capabilities. I And Rome, in her turn, lost all, when know from years of experience, that the she no longer had men of her own peo- Hawaiian, under officers who inspire him ple who were equal to those duties of with confidence and command his respect, manhood. will prove a loyal and reliable soldier, Nor do we lack for modern cases in and he would be an exceptional man in- point, to prove the fatal difference be- deed—of any race—whom I would ac- tween being ready and prepared, and be- cept as a fighting man, in preference to ing unready and unprepared, as in the such Hawaiians as the late William Ka- Franco-Prussian war, the Japanese-Chi- mana, John W. Alapai, James Kauhane nese war, the Spanish-American war, the and many other Hawaiians who have Japanese-Russian war, the occupation of been under my authority in times past. Korea by Japan, the Italian-Turkish war Conan Doyle, in concluding his vivid —to say nothing of the tremendous sacri- pen picture of the destruction of "The fices of the North through being unpre- Last Galley," thus describes the burning pared at the battle of Bull Run, and the of Carthage : awful experiences of the British in the "For in that year a great cloud hung Boer war, which certainly "staggered hu- for seventeen days over the African coast ; manity," as Oom Paul predicted, and all a deep black cloud which was the dark because of unpreparedness begotten by shroud of the burning city. And when that "valor of ignorance," to which the the seventeen days were over, Roman possibilities are always impossible. In ploughs were driven from end to end of conversation with a retired lieutenant- the charred ashes, and salt was scattered general of the British army a short time there as a sign that Carthage should be before the Boer war, the writer coin- no more. mented on Mr. Gladstone's peculiar poli- And far off a huddle of naked, starving cy after the battle of Majuba Hill, and folk stood upon the distant mountains, the possibility of further trouble in South and looked down upon the desolate plain Africa. The general airyly said, "If there 360 THE MID-PACIFIC. is any more trouble there, we will send the loss of their city, and to the utter a hundred thousand men and hem them destruction of their Nation, at one time in." This was very brave talk, but the more powerful than ancient Rome. possibilities were not recognized by this And Rome in her turn, lost all through veteran officer nor by the British Govern- the vicious courses of her rulers and ment, and they were compelled to trans- people, when she no longer bred men port over three hundred thousand men capable of resisting the barbarians of the to South Africa before the Boers were north. hemmed in and the war ended. And now in conclusion I wish to say, that in order to realize the hopes and These things should be borne in upon the consciousness of employers to the end wishes of the friends and suporters of the National Guard of Hawaii, for its future that they be induced to give encourage- well being and increased efficiency, it is ment to those in their employ—who are a matter of paramount importance that physically qualified to become soldiers— a comfortable home be prepared, in the to join the National Guard, and acquire military experience in, at least, the rudi- shape of a spacious and well equipped ments of the duties of a soldier, and armory for the officers and men who are without the fear or danger of being dis- willing to devote time and energy to the charged from the employment which pro- task of fitting themselves to become effi- vides their bread and butter. cient defenders of our homes, our coun- try and our flag when the time comes, Indifference or an overweening con- and no man can say, that that time will ceit among the people of Carthage led to not come.

General Soper and Staff on Capitol Steps in Revolution Days. The Smiles of Witashima BY ARTHUR LORING MACKAYE

Kitari Witashima was a smiling little breath that he could evolve, in hopes that fellow ; in fact his smile seemed to be as he could exorcise the demons of frost much a part of him as was his uniform which delighted in nipping his fingers. or his nose, but though he had other He would have blown upon his ears as peculiarities, his smile dominated them well if he had but had half a chance. all. Kitari was a member of the Third In Ping-Yang, Kitari and his smile, or Tokyo Infantry, and considered himself rather that smile and Kitari, made quite a veteran ; even his mother conceded a hit with the Korean girls, each of that he was almost grown up. At times whom thought the smile was an especial his officers or comrades had tried to im- compliment to her. One result of this press upon Kitari the seriousness of war. was that his comrades found it harder He agreed with them that it was aw- than ever to convince him that war was fully serious, and his smile was especial- a most serious affair and that a contin- ly cheerful. uous happy smile was exceedingly incon- On the march from Seoul to Ping- gruous under circumstances in which a Yang, Kitari seemed to think that the man leaves home on purpose to kill as deeper the mud the better the fun, and many of his fellow men as possible. when his captain had to be rescued from At Anju, Kitari nearly lost his smile, a mudhole by half his company, Kitari but that was because he nearly lost his was only kept from laughing outright life as well, and for a time he was more by his instinct of discipline ; but it was cheerfully ready than ever to agree that lucky for him that his captain did not war was no joke. This particular day see his smile. Kitari's company had acted as advanced Yes, he knew that war was serious. pickets, and instructions had been given There were times when raw rice, if there that special vigilance should be observed, was only plenty of it, was a luxury, and as it was known that strong parties of many times during that long march Ki- Cossacks were scouting in the neighbor- tari blew onto his hands with the hottest hood. 361 362 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Beside the road, where the detail to were scandalized at the joyful interest which Kitari belonged was posted, there with which their daughter welcomed the was a half-ruined house of two rooms, occupation of Anju by the Japanese sol- and there the main detachment made its diers. They lectured her and threaten- headquarters, while pickets were sta- ed her, but she just smiled at them in a tioned farther down the road and on way they knew by experience would either flank in touch with pickets from cause them to forgive her anything. other detachments. Kitari was on the One evening Mr. Kong, who was one road, and in spite of the monotonous of the few educated Korean merchants rain which soaked him, his smile was in Anju, told his wife and daughter cheerful in anticipation of soon being re- about an attack by Cossacks upon a Jap- lieved in time for supper, when sudden- anese outpost and how one soldier had ly, out of the wood nearby, dashed a fought single-handed a whole squad of score of Cossacks on their swift horses. the enemy until the main picket had "Ah, here is some real seriousness !" come up and dispersed the raiders. He thought Kitari, and his smile became added that the soldier who had fought almost a grin as he blazed away at the so well was badly wounded, but might enemy and saw one of the horses go live, and had been brought to town for down. treatment. After this Kismeetu insist- "He'll stick in the mud," said Kitari ed upon her father enquiring every day to himself as he threw in another cart- as to how Kitari was progressing, and ridge and again fired. when his regiment marched in April for "That makes two," he counted as one Wiji she gave her parents no rest until of the Cossacks fell forward and, clutch- they agreed to take charge of the wound- ing his horse's mane, still rode in the ed man. charge. Again Kitari fired when the Thus it was that when Kitari recover- enemy was close to him, and again a ed from his fever, the first thing he saw horse went down with its rider. when he opened his eyes was the face of "If I could only throw myself into a Kismeetu bending over and smiling at square to repel cavalry," thought Kitari him. And he smiled back at her. regretfully, "what a fine thing it would "Where am I?" he whispered, but the be." But he did the best he could and girl nodded her head and said something quickly fitted his bayonet just in time to he could not understand, so he went to parry the thrust of a long lance. sleep again, smiling happily to himself The Cossacks shouted something at and to her. him which was a command to surrender, Kitari's recovery was rapid once the but Kitari did not know what it meant, fever left him, and he was made very and with a swift stab pinned the leg of happy by the notification that he had the Cossack who had thrust at him to his been made a corporal in recognition of horse. his bravery. Soon he was about the " Certainly, this is real serious," house, and before long became as one of thought Kitari, and he smiled at the idea the family, for, although he knew but a just as another Cossack struck him with few words of Korean, and Kismeetu was his sharp lance on the head and he felt ignorant of Japanese, their smiles were as though he was falling, falling, but eloquent, and it was seldom that Mr. with a soft, slow motion. Kong was called upon to interpret. "How deep the mud must be," was his One day when the cherry blossoms last dim idea. were beginning to dot the trees with sil- very stars, Kitari broke a twig laden Now, Kismeetu was looked upon by with flowers and stuck it in Kismeetu's her father and mother as an exceedingly glossy black hair, and she looked so strange young woman, for Kismeetu pretty that he gazed upon her in admir- was romantic, even if she were a Korean ation and his heart beat and his stout lit- girl, and Mr. and Mrs. Kong Jong Su tle legs trembled as they had not done THE MID-PACIFIC. 363 when the Cossacks thundered down upon tari buried his sense of duty under his him. And Kismeetu smiled at him so love and made up his mind to really learn lovingly that almost before he knew it Korean, and he smiled at the thought he had caught her hands and pressed and of all he had to say to Kismeetu, and them to his forehead and to his heart he determined to begin at once. His op- and told her of his love. portunity came that same evening at "In my heart there your home is, supper when Kitari told Mr. Kong of his Kismeetu! Ever in my dreams you'll talk with the surgeon and his decision to dwell with cherry blossoms decked and learn Korean. scented, Kismeetu! I your captive am, "You are my honored guest and I will and will be ever while I live, and you be glad to help you," responded the head must love me, Kismeetu, or I shall die of the house graciously. and be a cherry tree that you may pick "Let us begin now," said Kitari. "Tell and wear my blossoms in your hair, dear me, what is 'love' in Korean ?" Kismeetu !" "Love !" repeated the amazed Mr. And though Kismeetu did not under- Kong, while Kitari nodded his head and stand the words, she knew that he was smiled. "That is not a useful word," he telling of his love for her in his flowery added. Japanese way, so she crossed her hands "Oh, yes ! When one is lost in love over her heart and bowed to him and one must at least know how to enquire then she placed his hand upon her head the way," asserted Kitari decisively. to show she was his own and that he "What does he say, respected father ?" must cherish and protect her. asked Kismeetu. "Dear Kitari, you are my hero and "Why,, the silly boy says he is lost in my love," she said, as they stood with love,' replied Mr. Kong, solemnly. hands clasped. "But you must love me Kismeetu looked pleased, but did not truly so that the singing birds will envy reply, and Kitari, who had been screw- us. Your home will be my home and my ing up his courage, plunged desperately heart shall ever be yours," and then she into an explanation. looked at him and they smiled and in "Yes, my dear and honorable Mr. this way they told of their love, and were Kong, I am greatly in love. My devo- happy. tion makes me brave to appeal to your But Kitari was puzzled what to do, honored friendship for assistance, for 1. for there were no relatives of his pres- am in a deep despair that my respected ent to ask for him of her parents the relatives cannot honor me by requestinc, hand of his sweetheart ; neither could the excellent parents of the girl I so feel- he explain to her his dilemma, and he ingly adore to permit their honored and hesitated about asking her father to in- beautiful daughter to accept me for her terpret for him. Still, he was happy, for husband," and Kitari drew a deep breath he met Kismeetu about the house and in and for once his smile was not altogether the garden continually, and he wooed happy. To him this was more serious her with smiles and she responded with than war. a happy heart in the same way, and was "What does he say ?" again asked Kis- content. meetu. And now Kitari felt that he was well "He is asking my assistance to request enough to join his regiment, even though some girl to marry him. But how can I still having to wear a bandage which do that when I do not know who she is ?" looked considerably like a turban, and and Mr. Kong looked puzzled. he reported to the surgeon at headquar- "Tell him you will help him all you ters, but the latter told him to be patient, can," said the sly Miss Kismeetu breath- for wounded men were a nuisance at the lessly. front, and his regiment might struggle "Corporal Witashima, I feel that you along without him for a time until his honor me greatly by your request for my wound was thoroughly healed. So Ki- good offices and I will help you all I can, 364 THE MID-PACIFIC. for I am sure you are a good and hon- to his future father-in-law in the most orable man." approved Japanese style, and promised Kitari was delighted ; here was his solemnly to become a general or die in chance, and he immediately began to ex- the attempt, with the result that Mr. tol the beauty, wisdom and virtues of his Kong was completely mollified. sweetheart and the high standing of her The next day Kitari took up the study parents and the great consideration in of Korean in earnest and quickly learned which they were held. the name for "love." There was only one "Do I know this possessor of all the thing now that worried him, he might virtues ?" finally asked Mr. Kong with miss a chance to become a general, and more interest than he had yet shown. he shed mingled tears of vexation and "Oh, great and respected Mr. Kong," joy when the news came a few days later said Kitari, bowing almost to the matting of the battle of Kuliencheng and the vic- upon which he sat cross-legged, "she is tory of his countrymen on the banks of your own daughter, the incomparable the Yalu. Kitari reported at once to Kismeetu." Major Satsoesi at headquarters and ask- Mr. Kong sat speechless, gazing at Ki- ed permission to join his regiment. tari in dumb surprise. What he princi- "We need you here, Corporal," said pally saw was a smile, and he thought of the major. "Report for duty tomorrow. how well Kismeetu's smile matched it. There are Cossacks in the mountains But the spell was broken by his daugh- east of us, and though it is not likely ter. they will come this way, they might "What does he say ?" she asked for the make a dash for our lines here. If you third time. only knew Korean now," added the "He wants to marry you !" shouted her major. father in a tone of mingled wonder and "I am learning it, sir," remarked Ki- despair. Kismeetu clapped her hands tari proudly. gleefully. For several days Kitari was extremely "Oh, how nice !" she cried. busy, and the amount of work he got Mr. Kong groaned. Mrs. Kong then out of his men was astonishing. "It's had something to say, and poor Kitari that smile of his," commented the major, all this time tried to look cheerful. Kis- who had supervision of the forwarding meetu boldly confessed her love for Ki- of supplies to the front from Anju. One tari, called him a hero and was sure he day the major remarked that some sup- would be a great general in a remark- plies destined for the troops across the ably short time. This last argument im- Yalu had been lost near Suk-Chon. pressed Mr. Kong favorably, for Japan- "It would be a good thing if we could ese generals had a habit of giving con- replace them here, but I am afraid we tracts for supplies which had already cannot," said the major to those about benefited the Korean merchant. Mrs. him. Kong also sided with her daughter, and That evening Kitari spoke to Mr. Kong finally Mr. Kong surrendered, but condi about the lost food supplies, and the re- tionally. He told Kitari that he would sult was that the next day the Korean accept him as a suitor for his daughter merchant received an exceedingly lucra- and if at the end of the war they still de- tive contract, and his respect and belief sired to marry he would give his consent, in Kitari increased greatly. and he begged him to hurry up and be- come a general. On the afternoon of May 7, 1904, Mai. It seemed to Kitari that the gates of Satsoesi called in Kitari. "Corporal, take heaven were standing open for him and ten men and an interpreter and make a his happiness was reflected in the smile reconnoisance toward the hills. A na- with which he looked at Kismeetu and tive tells me that a lot of strange men which caused Mrs. Kong to sigh gently. and horses are up there, and from his de- Then Kitari made his acknowledgments scription they may be Cossacks. Let me THE MID-PACIFIC. 365

know at once if you see anything sus- Suddenly Kitari noticed a bustle in the picious." camp. The Cossacks were dispersing Corporal Witashima with his eleven from about the fires and were saddling men made straight for the hills after their horses. Officers went among them crossing the river, and after a hard and gave commands which Kitari guess- march entered a pass leading into the ed were cautions to make less noise. valleys which cut the range. Climbing "They are going to try and surprise the highest of these hills the little com- Anju," thought Kitari. "But I must stop pany had an extended view, and when them. Maybe I will be a general yet," Kitari had climbed a big tree just after and he smiled happily at the delight such sunset he saw in the darkened valley to a circumstance would give Kismeetu. the east the lights of scores of camp fires. Rejoining his little squad, Kitari sent They might be a detachment of Japanese the interpreter and one of his men to re- troops from Chong-nyong, but it was port to the major as to the number of the more likely to be those marauding Cos- enemy, and that it was evident that they sacks he had been told of, and he smiled would try to surprise Anju that night. at the thought of how he would surprise He added a message to the effect that he them pretty soon. and the men with him would hold them As silently as possible the little squad in check as long as possible at the narrow descended the hill and leaving the apol-. pass from the valley, so that the major ogy of a road plunged into the forest to- might have more time to make arrange- ward the distant fires. The whinney of a ments for defense. horse told them they were approaching "Good boy !" exclaimed Major Satsoesi the camp, and crawling through the as he hurried out into the sleeping town brush with one of his men Kitari soon to get his command together and dispose made out the camp in a cleared space. them to the best advantage, when he re- They were Cossacks. For a long time ceived Kitari's message. he watched the scene and counted the Meanwhile, Kitari fell back with his camp fires and the men around those men to the pass between the forest-cover- nearest him, and he concluded there must ed hills, which were impassable for cav- be nearly 600 men in the party. And alry. They had no axes to fell trees there were less than one hundred sol- across the road, but they worked hard to diers in Anju. roll boulders and pile big stones in the

5—M. P. 366 THE MID-PACIFIC.

clear spaces. It was midnight when the complete. A number of men and horses tramp of horses reached the ears of Ki- were floundering about in the road, and tari, and he disposed his nine men across there were shrill cries and groans with the road behind the rough stone wall shouts of command, and then the rapid they had made. There was no moon, but beat of hoofs as the Cossacks retreated by the starlight the Japanese soldiers be- in confusion. They were non-plussed, fore long made out the Cossack guard with no idea of the force in front of coming down the road. Kitari had or- them, but from the rapid fire delivered dered his men not to fire until he did, the lieutenant in command of the advance and as the enemy came nearer and nearer guard thought it must be considerable. they wondered why Kitari did not shoot. The colonel in command of the Cos- They knew they were there to die, but sacks thought that the ambush was much they wanted to do as much execution to more likely to have been an attack by the enemy as possible and give their com- some brigands who did not know of his rades in Anju a chance to prepare for a force, and he ordered a charge down desperate defense, and every hour count- the road of as many as could ride to- ed in such an emergency. gether. But again the Cossacks were The Cossacks were less than fifty yards met with a deadly fire, and retreated with from the ambush before Kitari fired, and some loss in horses and men, and the immediately his men blazed away until colonel was convinced that a strong force their magazines were empty ; then they opposed him which would have to be hurriedly reloaded. The surprise was flanked before it could be dislodged. THE MID-PACIFIC. 367

Dismounting a couple of hundred men, attack Anju and that there would be a he ordered them to climb the hill and at- battle. When morning came, Kismeetu tack the Japanese from the rear to clear insisted that her father go to headquar- the road, while another column attacked ters and find out where Kitari was. in front. When he returned, Mr. Kong was evi- "They are attacking on foot," said Ki- dently disturbed. tari to his men. "Something has happened to him !" Soon the bullets were whistling over cried Kismeetu. the stone wall or striking with a "spat" "He may be taken prisoner," said Mr. on the boulders behind which Kitari and Kong, soothingly ; but his daughter his comrades lay, shooting at every mov- wrung her hands in despair. ing shadow seen in the starlight. Then "He would never surrender !" she ex- suddenly there was the crack of rifles up claimed indignantly, while the tears ran the hillsides, and bullets began plowing down her cheeks. the ground behind and around them. But "Then maybe he is only wounded," it was too dark for the enemy to see to remarked Mr. Kong with the idea of take aim, and an hour went by and still quieting his little daughter's present an occasional shot from behind that grief, though he himself believed that flimsy stone wall struck down some too Kitari was dead. Kismeetu wiped away venturesome Cossack. her tears with her long, loose sleeve. Kitari was wounded and only two of "We must go to him at once, then," h's men were left, but they crawled to- she said decisively. "He may be dying gether, determined to die like soldiers because there is no one to care for him," of the Emperor ; they knew the end had she added. come, for the cavalry bugles were sound- "But the soldiers will not let anybody ing the charge, but in the east a faint leave the town," cried Mr. Kong. light heralded the dawn, and Kitari "Oh, yes, they will, if we both ask smiled. them." "I'll never be a general," he said to A little later Major Satsoesi was as- himself. "But maybe they will bury me tounded when one of his contractors, under, a cherry tree." accompanied by an exceedingly pretty Once again rang out the rifles of the Korean girl, came up to him during a Japanese heroes, and then as the flood lull in the firing which had already com- of Cossack horses poured over the low menced, and asked permission to leave breastwork the three soldiers rose to the town for the Russian camp. their feet for the'r last fight, grim, un- "Certainly not !" said the major brus- conquered, phantoms in the starlight of quely. But when Kismeetu understood that death they gave and sought. she clasped her hands in supplication and No fog-curtain shrouded the hills from would have knelt at the major's feet if Anju that morning, and the sun rose he had let her. bright and warm over the plain where "What does she say?" inquired the the quaint town guarded the fords of its major as he lifted up the girl. river. As the sun shot up over the dis- "She says she wants to get Corporal tant hills, Major Satsoesi raised his cap Witashima," interpreted Mr. Kong dole- as he turned to Captain Yatosota. fully. "Corporal Witashima has done well," "Oh, that's it, is it !" exclaimed the he said. major in a different tone. Just then the All that night there had been an un- Russian attack was redoubled. "Very usual activity in Anju, and the Koreans well, you can try," he told them as he had peeked from their little houses at hurried away. the hurrying squads of Japanese soldiers At noon when the Russian attack was and wondered what it was all about, and again suspended, Kismeetu, mounted on then the word passed from house to a Korean pony, led the way across the house that the Russians were going to river while her father jogged along on a 368 THE MID-PACIFIC. sorrowful steed behind her. Against the squad of Japanese heroes who had saved advice of her father, Kismeetu made Anju, and one of them was Kitari. straight for the Cossack lines, and with- "It is hardly possible he'll live, but in half an hour she was explaining to an do my best for him. He was a brave exceedingly cross old colonel the reason man," had remarked the surgeon with the Russian forces, and he had proceed- for her visit. ed to bind up a dozen wounds. "Yes, there are a couple of wounded And there it was that Kismeetu found Japanese back by the hills ; but I don't her lover, and as she knelt beside him expect they'll live," he added, grimly, and clasped his limp hand to her beating and Kismeetu cried out in fear as the heart, he opened his eyes and smiled upon colonel's Korean guide translated. her as he had in the garden that day. "Tell her she can have her sweetheart, "Cherry blossoms !" he murmured. dead or alive, if she'll hurry," said the "Take good care of him and he may colonel, and Kismeetu hardly waited to live to smile at you again many times," say, "Thank you." said the sympathetic surgeon as he help- Under the trees not far from a tumble- ed Kismeetu lift Kitari into a horse- down stone wall which stretched across stretcher attached to a couple of Korean the road, lay a dozen or more wounded ponies. men. They were all more or less band- And now Lieutenant Witashima has aged, but two especially, at one end of the two smiles, his own and Kismeetu's, but line, looked as though dressed in noth- his own is a little lopsided because of a ing else. They were the only survivors scar, though Kismeetu insists it is all of the desperate stand made by the little the more eloquent. My Catamaran BY A MALIHINI

I once owned a catamaran for quite The launching of my strange craft half a day. It was a product of home tal- was accomplished during what proved ent, and promptly started on its trial to be a severe kona storm. The loud and trip. I had watched the construction of ribald laughter of my comrades who had this wonderful craft with awe, but the foretold failure for the queer craft made boyish carpenters working under my di- me grit my teeth and determine to sail rection assured me that with the altera- her out in the open bay in the face of tions being made it would surely hold the gathering storm. One by one my together for all eternity. I was new to invited guests withdrew, and the cata- Hawaii, and believed them. They began maran, built to accommodate twenty, to deviate from the original drawings carried but a single passenger. From when they bored holes in the bottom of the shore willing hands reached out to each boat, through which to run the iron help me hoist the giant sail, and mock- clamps that were to grip the crossbars ing friends bade me "farewell forever," that held the two separate craft together. as a gust of wind stretched every inch After that there was no chance of the of canvas and the double prows cut catamaran outliving her trial trip. through the waters. I had expected

369 370 THE MID-PACIFIC. much from my catamaran from the mo- first would bring about the very accident ment I first beheld one of these .strange that I had declared to the wondering Polynesian vessels dart into the harbor crowds who watched our construction and dart out again. I had never seen to be utterly impossible—the upsetting another, and the shipbuilders were of the catamaran ! unanimous in declining to build one for We drifted toward the channel ; the me ; it was for that reason that I had broad, open ocean was just beyond, and called in several naive boys to my as- the wind blowing a hurricane. Suddenly sistance. I owned the only catamaran there was a ripping sound and my vast on the entire Oahuan coast, and I tried expanse of sail was in tatters. It was to be proud of it. impossible now to keep headway ; we From the very first my craft acted rolled in the trough of the sea and the strangely. A heavy rain began to shut pine beams that connected the two cof- out from view the mockers who had re- fins began to creak and groan ominous- fused to be my guests, and like a pair ly. Straight before us was a reef upon of arrows shot from one bow we—I pre- which the breakers roared, the grave- sume a catamaran is "we"—shot across yard of many a yacht and fishing the wide, sweeping arm of Pearl Har- sampan. A grating, crunching sound un- bor, leaving Pearl City behind a curtain der our larboard keel and I knew that of rain. Almost upon the flats of Puu- one of my coffins had found the rocky loa I succeeded in cleating down my covering of the submerged coral that sheet-rope and with all my might sought extends miles. A moment later it hap- to work the tiller of my twin rudders. pened. Shrieking wind, falling mast This was almost too much for the and shattering of timbers—then wreck- strength of a single person in the rising age that floated far and near on the storm, but slowly we came into the waves. My half of the catamaran drift- teeth of the wind, then the great sail ed free and undamaged ; half swamped flapped and the giant boom swung to and waterlogged she rode with the rising with a force that threatened to create tide. Nightfall found me clinging to my havoc. However, the ropes held, and wreck as she drifted by the lights of we raced toward the open sea. The Honolulu and on past Diamond Head. wind rose to a gale and it is doubtful if In the shadow of Koko Head it was two men could now budge the tiller an possible to ride out the storm, even in inch ; we flew before the wind. Al- comparative safety and a half-sub- though the force of the gale increased merged pine coffin. My trial trip was with every moment, we began to crawl over, and as a catamaran, my boat had through the water at a pace that was ceased to exist. astonishing in a catamaran—for its lack Morning dawned bright and clear. of speed. Moreover, the waves now be- Resting peacefully upon a bed of coral gan to swamp both boats from stern to and crab blanket lay the remains of one stem, and we seemed to be sinking half of my craft, minus rigging and rud- deeper into the water. I thought of der. I had tried to sleep upon the half- those auger-holes in the bottoms of the upturned deck, but even in summer a craft through which the twisting irons storm will cool the atmosphere sufficient- had been thrust ; I thought also of other ly for the one who must remain outdoors things. There was no bailing out, for in damp clothing. I could now examine the two coffins that formed the cata- the neat, round holes on the outer side maran were decked over. Help there of which the irons had been bolted was none, for the gale now gathering in down. It was but the work of a mo- strength drove every vessel to seek shel- ment to unscrew the nuts and withdraw ter or cast anchor and ride out the the now useless clamps, but it was some storm. I realized now that no ordinary hours before all the water that had anchor would hold my awkward twins, leaked in leaked out again. Finally I and what I feared was that one filling stuffed the remnants of my shirt into the THE MID-PACIFIC. 371 auger-holes and prepared my half-craft hanker after. So far, so good, however, for the rising hide. She floated fair and and now to get back to civilization with free, more beautiful in her single bless- my cumbersome craft. Without it I was edness than when bound to her frail as absolutely cast away as any mariner in mid-ocean, for on every side stretch- partner, now drifting aimlessly some- ed coral that tore bare feet or quick- where on the great ocean. sands in which I was certain I might In no condition to return to the city, bog to my neck for the rising tide to it was my purpose to cruise about as finish me gently but surely. I preferred best I could until I found a native who the dangers of the deep in a frail, rud- would take a message to my family and derless, unmanageable bark to the pos- return with a suit of clothing. In the sibility of losing myself in shifting sands, meantime it became absolutely necessary so selecting a young sapling from the that I find breakfast somewhere. Opihi driftwood on the beach, I boarded my are abundant everywhere along the coffin as soon as she was afloat and be- coast, but opihi pall on a hungry man, gan to pole across the submerged coral besides it takes time to pry them out of flats. By keeping to the narrow chan- the rocks. Near my wreck lay one of nels that cut up the coral I managed to those little islands in the vast desert of make several miles by mid-day. It was coral, a handful of sand forming a small a zigzag journey. Lost in a maze of mound upon which a few kiawe grew. coral scarce covered even at highest To this spot I made my way and scan- tides, I began to grow anxious. A dozen ned the tiny beach ; not in vain, for times tempting channels may take you there, not ten yards away, was the trail within a stone's throw of the coveted in the still damp sand of a turtle, and up place of landing, only to leave you gaz- above the tide-rne the patted sand that ing over a narrow, but impassable, strip covered a score or more of round, soft- of coral. What was my astonishment shelled eggs that I dug up from the pit. upon nearing the beach by one of these Now turtle eggs are one thing when treacherous blind alleys, to observe a served with steaming taro and quite an- small native boy gazing at me from the other when raw and cold ; opihi are bank in open-mouthed amazement. I preferable. I tried all the wonderful think I must have been the first white scientific experiments described in Rob- man he had ever seen, but to an inquiry inson Crusoe and the Swiss Family Rob- he replied that his name was Ikeewee, inson for starting a fire on a desert is- and that he had always lived in the little land, but it is needless to state found grass house that stood half-concealed in none of the combinations would work. the heavvy growth of kiawe trees. A Marooned on a turtle island without gaunt native woman now made her ap- matches I found to be a serious incon- pearance at the grass but door, cour- venience, and, moreover, I was becom- tesying she stood waiting the commands ing feverish from a raging thirst that of the "haole." even the slimy fish-tasting whites of tur- tle eggs did not begin to alleviate. In "Anything to eat ?" I bawled out. despair I once more began to conjure "Ikeewee, go git koukou," and Ikee- up all the tales I had read of shipwreck- wee darted off in the underbrush. Be- ed seaman, who by miraculous means fore long he returned with a few crabs, procured a plentiful supply of fresh pulled several ears of corn, picked a ripe water just as they were dying of thirst. melon, and had a young turtle from the Only I did not wish to wa't so long as family pen clasped close to his breast re- that, so I tried Receipt No. 1, and began gardless of the proclivity of these semi- digging vigorously with my bare hands reptiles to bite vigorously and hold on in the sand a few feet above the mark until darkness sets in. Grinning and left by the highest tides. I did come to happy he came into the little home water, and I could drink it, but it was through its one entrance, for window not water that even a thirsty man would there was none. 372 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Turtle stew, crab salad, green corn, next morning the man of the family had and watermelon, all at a moment's no- returned, and I discovered upon inquiry tice on a desert strand was not a meal that he had an old saw and a still ser- to be despised, and before the stew was viceable hatchet. It was an hour's work fairly on the fire, Ikeewee was off and to cut a cockpit in my pine coffin and back again, this time bringing a double- stop the auger-hole leaks with wooden handful of bird eggs, and a more delic- plugs. But at least I had a serviceable ious omelet I have never eaten. I might single boat which I fitted with an out- have had a pair of birds also, or a brace rigger, and was ready to start homeward. of mynahs, but with a feast fit for a king before me I declined another course. The trip back was anything but a tri- While my hostess tended the fire and umphant one, but we finally reached the cooked the dinner Ikeewee waited on the vicinity of Waikiki in safety. A mile or table, and the almost ice-cold water from two more and I would have been home the well was far superior to the brackish with at least half of my original cata- fluid I had scooped up from the sands maran, but the ridicule of the small boy with my hands in the early morning. I was more than I cared to face, so I de- will not speak of the glorious nap I had cided to offer my native friend, who had after surfeiting myself on island deli- piloted me home, a silver dollar to take cacies, for if I spoke the truth I should it back to his Crusoe island as a present be bound to admit that to escape the fleas to little Ikeewee. I left the cabin and fell a victim to the And that was the last I saw of my mosquitoes without. However, I got catamaran. What my friend's experi- some sleep, and before I had awakened ence with it was I never learned. Philip Island. Cruising Among the South Sea Islands BY H. F. ALEXANDER

In America there is a saying that it is off, some 15 miles to the south of Lord cheaper to move than to pay rent. From Howe Island, a pinnacle of rock arose Australia it is almost cheaper to go a from the sea, a single cathedral sphere cruising than either to move or to pay 1500 feet in height. This, Ball's pyramid, rent. and Lord Howe Island we could clearly It costs about sixty or seventy dollars discern at a distance of 60 miles. a month to cruise among the Solomon, Lord Howe Island lies almost midway Marshall or New Hebrides islands. I between Sydney and Norfolk Island. It chose the New Hebrides cruise because has 113 residents or thereabouts. They is promised a prolonged two months loaf- all live on the sale of the seeds of the ing trip among real cannibal islands palms that grow there and nowhere else. where people are still eating strangers These are the house palms the world off the grill. over. We shot off two bombs as our ar- I kept a diary in which there are some rival was at night and then waited for interesting passages. Several days out the boats to put off. We were a mile and we sighted our first land, Lord Howe a half from shore, in a cove. All about Island,—two mountain peaks that rise us strange snakes glided through the from the sea, a valley between, giving water leaving beautiful phosphorescent the whole a shape reminiscent of the isl- trails—in fact snakes of fire darted every- and of Capri in the bay of Naples. Afar where.

373 374 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Early in the morning I arose and war (French) in the harbor about to be found the boats putting out for the dismantled and we must remain a day or freight. There was quite a swell, but I two on our return to take away some of got into one of the boats and was soon the salvage. ashore on the beach. I could see now The sea was choppy as we sailed away, that the palms are small, not over 20 feet but the scenery about the outlying islets in height, in fact just like the conserva- was too pretty to miss ; birds nesting on tory palms of New York or London. the sides of precipices, larger birds—all They are 60 years old before they bear white—appropriating entire islets, the seeds so the island holds a natural mountains of the larger half of the isle monopoly. A keen Yankee visited the beyond and in the distance Ball's Rock island and organized its people into a rising like a gigantic cathedral from the company and each resident now owns an sea—fifteen miles away—a pretty scene equal share in the export of seed. The indeed. adult stockholders pay boys five shillings Three days sailing brought us to Nor- a bushel for gathering the palm seeds and folk Island, which is not so pretty from get two pounds a bushel for the product, afar as is Lord Howe, but in the sunlight netting each islander about fifty pounds the little islet off the main island is seen a year. to advantage—all colors of the rainbow. Traveling is easy in Lord Howe. From This, Philip Island, is an uninhabited the landing boxes on runners drawn by rock that is as irridescent as a Colorado oxen carry the freight over the sandy canyon. Here in the old days the con- roads to the homes of the people, who victs set rabbits loose, which ate all the live in little one storied frame dwellings, foliage, denuded the island until the innocent of fire places, as it is never very storms washed the soil away and now cold on Lord Howe. the rabbits eat each other and the young Wild pigs and goats roam the hillsides, sea birds. for only a small portion of the island is Early in the morning I was prepared cultivated or occupied. On a small island to land. The main island with its green in the cove a widow raises sheep, and background to the old coral rock prisons on the rocky islets birds lay eggs which and barracks made a pretty picture, the the islanders collect by the bucketful for surf beat on the coral and our ride was food. on great rollers into a little cove at a right I walked across the island in one of angle. Just at the right moment the boat the narrow parts in 20 minutes—through takes the wave, shoots into the ram's forest of underbrush and tiny palms. On horn, then turns sharp into quiet water. the other side was a small sandy cove It is not so dangerous or exciting a land- and a beach. ing as that at Laupahoehoe, Hawaii, or On my return to the landing—on men- at Jaffa. tioning I had not breakfasted—an old The islanders—about 700 are des- man, who has lived here 45 years, took cendants of the mutineers of the Bounty me up to his house, where his wife and who took Tahitian women to Pitcairn two barefooted daughters prepared me a Island. They were given this island meal of eggs, home-made bread and but- after the convicts left, but 50 returned ter with fresh milk. They loaded me and are now at Pitcairn, which they tell with bird's eggs, milk and flowers and me is but one square mile in area. Nor- would take no pay, although I slipped folk is six miles long, a garden without a shilling in the little girl's hand on the a market. beach and sent back some Samoan shells We landed and were offered a one- from the boat. horse trap for the morning for five shill- These people promised on my return ings and took it—alas ! We drove uphill that I should have a trip up the mountain through a very pretty country over a red and a run over to the nesting places of road to the crest and then down to a little the birds. There was a wrecked man-of- bay on the other side of the island where THE MID-PACIFIC. 375 the boats land in rough weather ; a beauty lifted up and we tipped over. I jumped spot but somewhat spoiled by the car- and landed on my side in the roadway. casses of whales that lay on the beach The horse bolted and soon the little cart and smelled to high heaven. was going to pieces. I called to the horse and followed, but she dashed off the road, We stopped at a cottage surrounded by a vegetable garden, and here found a broke the traces and was off at a jog woman who had lived in America, her trot. We left our basket of berries in the father being an American and her mother road and began to pick up the pieces of a Maori. She took us out into the straw- berry patch, and such berries ! an inch in wreck. On reaching the wagon we found diameter, real English berries of delicious that only the outer work had been smashed to Hinders. Our horse was gone, flavor. We picked full two quarts, and so we put the wreck against a tree and she sent for some cream. I gorged my- started to walk. At the end of half a self. Our hostess then put a quart of mile we came to our horse standing berries in a basket for us and a quart of across the road with the dog on guard. milk in a bottle. Her charge was one In a few moments I was leading him shilling, we paid her two. back and by dint of patching up the har- All along the road the natives and chil- ness we managed to get him between the dren raised their hats. We drove down shafts and resume our way. Everyone an avenue of Norfolk pines, the like of we passed I felt was looking at our wreck which exists in no other part of the and I blushed. At the outskirts of the world. There was the Toreii roadway town I slipped out, found the owner and and the V shaped sky descending, for brought him to estimate damages. To these pines are like those we see in chil- my astonishment we got off with a dren's toys. I always thought them im- pound. possible, but here they are, real. I was for going at once on the steamer We passed the Melanesian Mission, but one of the islanders took us to tea ; whose little church is a marvel of beauty, then the rain came down in torrents. the grounds pretty and the inky black The house was of coral rock. It was boys at their desks in the school inter- built around a patio, sheltered by grape esting. We drove on uphill to the cable vines, almost European in its pictures- station, and here we got out to admire queness. It was through the pouring the beautiful little rockbound sandy bay rain that we went back to the wharf and where the cable lands. The scenery was found the captain had gone aboard and entrancing, but not such as should throw all the cargo was off the boat. The men an ordinary sane man into convulsions. charged us double fare (2 shillings) to The island as a whole reminds one of a row us out and my bottle of milk, which drive through parts of England. had escaped the wreck, was smashed We started back at 10:30 and bowled against the iron side of the steamer. It along, the dog that went along to guard poured rain and we were soaked through the horse had amused himself all the and through. Later the secretary of the morning chasing cows and running poul- governor of the New Hebrides wanted to try across our track. The horse was ac- come aboard—he had to—and they held customed to it, but I was morally certain him up for ten shillings. It almost broke that we should be ditched, for my com- his heart to pay it, but as they started to panion left the guidance of the vehicle to row him back and the anchor was being the horse entirely. We bowled down a hauled up, he did pay—and swear—but steep decline and my companion remark- he paid. ed that the horse took the curves abrupt- It was another run of several days to ly. There was a sharp curve before us, Vila, capital of the New Hebrides. The which he pointed out as an example, and trip from Norfolk Island was unevent- instead of guiding the horse let her turn ful—three days of it—until we came in abruptly. I saw it coming and prepared sight of Sandwich Island, on which Vila to jump, the hub struck a stone post, is situated. 376 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Soon many native canoes came out to will and took the matter as a humorous trade, little dugouts from 10 to 15 feet experience. He used the clippers on the in length with outriggers at the end of side of my face, parted my beard, waxed long light poles, usually four saplings to my hair and moustach, annointed me and the outrigger, and these lightly lashed at politely requested two francs. their tips to pegs stuck into the soft wood The Americans here (there are two) of the outrigger and criss crossing each are monarchs indeed. They are above other. Many of the canoes had little lat- the law. No one can punish them, only tice work platforms built out on two of French and English must behave. They the poles to hold luggage, and the tiniest are represented. However, the Ameri- canoes seemed to carry four paddlers— cans are not allowed to trade or recruit. long tiny paddles that were used gently One was stopped by a British man-of- between the narrow spaces of the outrig- war, but on their own plantation they ger poles. Some of the canoes carried may kill or do anything else. I wonder triangle sails. It was picturesque, but the why one of the Americans does not apply natives seem to dress here like longshore- for the American consulship. men in the South. The women are rarely The natives here seem to live in low seen, as they are kept in the background, huts, mere thatch tents, a score to a hut, being purchased as wives from the age of the women in the background. It is the 8 up in exchange for pigs, or boar tusks. lowest island life I have yet seen. Can- After seeing a few, I would rather pos- nibalism still occurs with considerable sess the tusks. frequency, and recently a boat load of Vila is a pretty harbor, large and com- whites was butchered, but a man-of-war modious, fringed with dense green from peppered the offending village so that which rise the lighter hued cocoanut better behavior is in order, but it is still palms—scanty bearers, for the rats are dangerous to go alone in the bush in numerous here and the tin bands placed many islands. There are fifty-four lan- about the trees rust quickly and give guages and dialects spoken in the New them a foothold so that they can get up Hebrides, so that the natives learn pigeon to the nuts. The trees, too, seem small, English, as the planters cannot learn all after the majestic palms of Fiji and Sa- the dialects represented on their planta- moa, or even Hawaii. tion. The natives use pigeon English also There are several high islands in the to talk with those of other tribes than harbor—on one is the British residency. their own. We had the resident's secretary aboard, The heat at Vila is muggy. The har- who has been "home" for the holidays. bor swarms with sharks. They tell a As secretary they say he is feared by story of attaching red rags to wires those who wish to retain the favor of the bound about American oil cans. The "king" (the British resident). sharks swallow these and the cans may I went ashore in the afternoon and be seen bobbing about the harbor until after a few moments at the store wan- the shark is drowned. dered down the main road, through the After leaving our anchorage we steam- usual everlasting dull green of a mono- ed around Devil's point, where many tonous tropical bit of scenery. The na- tides meet and from whence sail boats tives were not picturesque and the houses are sometimes carried miles by a swift were one story shacks. I stopped at the current, then we passed in panorama the Vila hotel, a one-story grog shop, and beautiful bays near Vila. Hat island here for sixpence I had a large glass came in sight—like a soldier's cap, and of French claret (no duties here) and then Ashton's plantation and Havana bought a bottle for a franc. Here, too, harbor. The green grass on the hillside I met the Vila barber, baker and butcher I was informed was twelve feet high. —a Frenchman who offered to barb me. We came in close ashore and landed in He could not understand that I wanted the small boat. Ashton's partner was a vandyke—so I let him go at his sweet there to meet him, a large stolid looking THE MID-PACIFIC. 377 fellow. A few negroes were about—the instead a boat with a missionary (Robin- place looked as though it were going to son, who has been here. 30 years) put rack and ruin. The few cocoanut trees out, with him a sheep breeder who has planted were choked and withered. The his run on top of the table land 2000 feet up and ten degrees cooler than the partner had been away in a cutter for coast (85 degrees). Mrs. Robinson was months, recruiting,--result 7 boys. The aboard. At this place J. Williams and house was a two-room cement thatched other missionaries were murdered in affair with roomy veranda flush with the 1839. This was a pretty spot, a tiny ground. I would not care to live amid little river emptying into the sea between such lonely desolation. One hideous two mountains, and the little missionary black woman came to welcome her mas- station on the lowland cape beneath a ter. That was all. On the beach was the grove of cocoanut trees—a pretty little little outrigger canoe-8 or 9 feet long— spot, but neither this nor any part of the Ashton offered it for five shillings. I New Hebrides I have yet seen compares paid it and took possession, one of the with Samoa, Fiji or even Tonga for beau- boys getting in and holding to the side ty and picturesqueness. of the boat. It would hold only one per- I am the only passenger in the first son, but is quite a pretty little affair, cabin now, except a government official[ and now hangs from the rafters of the in charge of the 24 blacks who are being Outrigger Canoe Club. deported from Queensland to make place. There was a little roll during the night for white labor in the cane fields. and at 5 :30 I was up to go ashore, but The cruise has just begun.

Lord Howe Island. nammagnmmarammammommaaa

• • To An Hawaiian Skylark. By P. Maurice McMahon. M M Blithest of Warblers, sweet is thy lay, tz? M Delightfully rolling, each clarion note . N M Rings through the air on this bright sunny day, M Rarest of music from thy mellow throat. M Oh, how entrancing thy glad voice to hear, M `a What a grand medley of 'wildering sound, M Falling deliciously down on my ear, M 1 Softly diffusing its essence around. ar Like merry laughter the lilting notes ring, M I Where the broad swords of the sugar cane sway, M M Like to a bell when it ceases to swing : M Murmuring gently, then fading away. 1 Trembling, enraptured, as upward you soar By the green mountains of fair Waianae, M A fountain of mirthfulness bubbling o'er, i With melody flooding the earth and the sky. M Say, merry songster, what makes you so glad? M i What is the theme of your wondrous lay? a Do you not sometimes feel weary and sad? I Is your wee heart always cheery and gay? M Sweetly you're singing when morning is here, M And when the short evening has draw to a close 1 m Your rich, thrilling voice is still warbling as clear n As when in the morning all freshly you rose. M M Would I were like thee, blithe bird of the air, Would that my soul gushed with music like thine; M Then might I banish all thought of dull care "m? M If but such utterance only were mine. M Then would I trill my soft anthems of glee, M On Love's rosy wings speeding lightly along, M Contented with liberty, joyous and free, M I'd sigh my last breath in wild rapture of song! LIMMIZSgMaMMIMaMMr2MMal 378 Woman and the Cruising Habit BY HELEN MAY FARR

The desire of the Amer:can woman, the Mediterranean and around the world, who must travel in comfort, is chiefly or by way of the Straits of Magellan to responsible for the recent erection of the Great Pacific, and this without once magnificent hotels de luxe throughout changing ship or state room. In fact, it the Orient. Her all-conquering desire is far, far cheaper today to go a-cruising for comfort in travel is also responsible in ships de luxe than to cross and recross for the new idea of placing the most the ocean in a modern, up-to-date grey- magnificent and commodious ocean grey- hound of the seas. hounds on cruising runs that last for The first great cruise from America to months, and take the cruiser in luxury the Mediterranean and the Orient was from the beginning of a voyage to its immortalized by Mark Twain in his In- end, all the while affording a floating nocents Abroad. The humorist dwells home that is under almost military super- upon the fact that the party was largely vision, as absolutely satisfactory to her made up of men and women who would who is traveling alone as it is to her never have dared to trust themselves to can't-get-away husband at home. the intricacies of the ordinary foreign The cruise de luxe was originally con- tour ; they wished to be taken care of. ducted to lure the well-to-do woman These cruisers, back in the sixties, paid whose father or husband could not or some fifteen dollars a day for their ex- would not give up business for the pleas- periences. Today several steamship ure of some lengthy foreign tour. To- companies and private speculators con- day, however, it is the woman of very duct cruises around the world at a daily moderate means who is in the majority expense to the cruisers less than that at among those who spend months in some a first-class metropolitan hotel ; but there floating palace, cruising along through were many years between the voyage of

379 380 THE MID-PACIFIC. the "Quaker City" and the next public south of the line, while our own wester+! cruise to the Orient. country is clamoring for the greyhound Today the Daughters of the American criuser in Northern Pacific waters so that Revolution, who at first organized annual San Francisco has become the starting Mediterranean cruises, now arrange point of annual cruises that take in the round-the-world cruises from New York entire Pacific. to San Francisco on one chartered grey- Australia sets the world the pace in the hound, and across the continent by rail. cost of a cruise. From Sydney to the It was not until the early nineties, how- South Sea and to the cannibal islands, ever, that the American woman began there are frequent cruises that last from to demand something more extensive two to three months, at a fixed daily rate than the usual cross-the-ocean voyage. of ten shillings, or two dollars and a half Many of them had enjoyed occasional a day, which includes all expenses. True cruises on private yachts, and it was on we have three-dollar-a-day cruises from their insistent recommendation that the New York to the Caribbean islands on steamship companies began to build the smaller fruit and cargo steamers, and pleasure steamers on the lines of the there are Mediterranean cruises from yacht and experiment with short cruises. London and Italian ports at as low a rate These, to the Norwegian fjords and the as the Australians are accustomed to, but North Cape, for example, were made these are on tramp steamers that load and successful largely through the patronage unload at night, while the Pacific island of the Americans spending their sum- cruiser invariably lays up at dusk in mers in Europe, as were the cruising some land-locked island harbor where yachts to the wonderful sounds of New all is still. Hawaii has recently arranged Zealand made possible by foreign pa- for a twenty-five-dollar cruise to all the tronage. islands of that group. The Oriental cruise was but a begin- The recognized daily rate of the cruise ning. Eastern America next demanded de luxe, in every part of the world, is the Caribbean cruises, then the South from five dollars, or a pound a day, up. American and round-the-world cruises, There are Australasian cruises at this and now the Pacific cruise. This in addi- rate on palatial greyhounds ; this is the tion to the many cruises that originate rate of the Norwegian fjord pleasure and end at London, Hamburg or Genoa, cruise, as it is the price asked on the an- all exploited largely to catch the dollar nual winter cruise to the wonderful of the American women ; until the cruise sounds of New Zealand, that rival and of today has become to our feminine even excel in splendor and magnitude traveler at least what the conducted tour those of far-famed Norway. The Medi- was to the "first-time" tourist of a de- terranean crufse rate fell year by year cade ago. from fifteen dollars a day until it is now San Francisco and Sydney have inaug- less than four, while the round-the-world urated their Pacific cruises, but the great cruises start out with an advertised rate cruises start from New York during the of scarcely more than five dollars a day, winter months, when the man of the including all shore expenses and the rail family is least likely to be able to get trip across the American continent. In away. It is during the summer time that fact, one may safely place the minimum the shorter cruises originate from Aus- cost of a cruise by vessels of a thousand tralasian ports. The Australasian woman, tons or less, at about $2.50 a day, and by being as assiduous a lone traveler as her palatial greyhounds that carry neither American sister, has created a demand freight nor mail, at twice as much. for the cruising greyhound in the south- The longest cruise is the round-the- ern seas, with the result that from Syd- world trip ; this occupies some 120 days. ney, Auckland and even from Dunedin The 16,000-ton greyhound leaves New in Southern New Zealand, there are reg- York City in the fall, arrives at San Fran- ular cruises to the points of interest cisco early in the year and turns around THE MID-PACIFIC. 381 for the return round-the-world trip. A March, the southern summer months, traveler going on the westward round- while the Australian-South Sea Island the-world cruise from San Francisco, cruises are indulged in during the anti- starting in January, might after cruising podean winter, June to September. In in Japanese, Indian and Mediterranean fact, it would take a decade to complete waters all winter, make use of his Euro- all of the regular advertised cruises of pean stop-over privilege and join one of today, that were non-existant even a de- the round-Europe cruises from Naples or cade ago. Genoa to North Sea waters, arriving at The possibilities of the extended cruise English or German ports in time to catch are due to the demand of the American one of the summer cruises to Iceland, woman and her husband for the palatial Spitzbergen, the North Cape and Nor- hotel accommodations abroad to which way. He may return to America via a they are accustomed at home. The ocean regular cruiser that starts from Holland, greyhound must take from 300 to 700 visits the northern parts of South Amer- cruisers on an extended tour to make it ica, the Canal Zone and the islands of the pay the company to remove her from her Caribbean before finally calling at New regular run. Until recently a round-the- York in time, perhaps, for a transfer to world cruise would have been impossible, the ocean greyhound scheduled for the India, the Philippines, China, Japan and fall cruise around South America. In Hawaii being up to the present decade fact, he may return to San Francisco by innocent of gigantic caravansaries capa- this all-water cruising route, traveling in ble of housing many hundreds of guests the year some fifty thousand miles at a at one time. Today these countries boast cost that need not exceed five dollars a hotels as great with roof gardens more day. extensive, than any even in New York The man or woman who has once ac- City. The American woman traveling quired the cruise habit is sometimes gone alone, or in company with her sisters, has from home years at a time, cruising leis- induced her brothers in many lands to urely from continent to continent and is- turn the waters of the earth into pleas- land to island. Even South Africa is not ure ponds, and to bring the whole world left outside of the cruise zone, for there is before her vision as she dallies from port a regular round-Africa cruise from Ger- to port on colossal cruising yachts more man and Italian ports. The New Zealand palatial in appointment than any owned cruises are most popular from October to by the multi-millionaire for personal uses. 382 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Spokane, an Example of the Work of a Live Popular Chamber of Commerce of the People. The New Chamber of Commerce Idea BY FRANK G. SPRINGLEY

Oakland.

In Western America today it is the seems to be to spread the fame of his People's Chamber of Commerce that in- particular city abroad and to help make itiates and carries to success civic better- it an ideal place for residence. ments. In Richmond, California, now the sec- Los Angeles, Oakland, Portland, and ond manufacturing city in that State, the most notably Spokane, in the State of younger men, considering themselves Washington, are cities that have been snubbed by the chamber of commerce, forced on to better things by their peo- controlled by the conservatives, organ- ple's chambers of commerce. ized a club of their own, no one being In most of the older western cities that eligible who was under twenty-one or have been lulled to sleep by the old con- over thirty-five years of age. This or- trolling chambers of commerce, officered ganization became the progressive power and controlled by the "conservative" ele- in the city. It captured the chamber of ment, it has been necessary first to or- commerce, turned over all promotion ganize new chambers of commerce, open work to the young and energetic of the to any reputable citizen who is willing to community, and the real growth and im- pay the small annual dues imposed. In portance of Richmond began. this way Los Angeles, Oakland and Spo- In Spokane, also, it was necessary for kane have each secured thousands of ac- the younger and more progressive busi- tive workers, whose main desire in life ness men to stir things up. They reor-

383 384 THE MID-PACIFIC.

ganized the Spokane Chamber of Com- A t:cket was elected, and Spokane is merce, and that city began to move for- now governed by a commission of busi- ward by leaps and bounds. It was the ness men. It is the People's Chamber of New Chamber of Commerce Idea in Commerce Idea that is becoming the Spokane that compelled the city fathers power for good in Western American to submit to a commission form of gov- cities to lift city governments out of the ernment. sphere of politics and place them in the After considerable agitation by the hands of business men. Spokane has chamber, in October, 1909, the Hon. N. taken the lead, her Chamber of Com- S. Pratt, mayor of Spokane, addressed merce, with its thousands of members an open letter to the people of Spokane, and weekly dinners attended by hun- in which he declared the failure of the dreds of eager, active young business system of municipal government then men, has become the model for other existing and urged the wisdom of an im- cities. Perhaps the New Chamber of mediate change to the commission form Commerce Idea is an outgrowth of Spo- of government. Within a few days kane, a result of its growth, at any rate thereafter he appointed a committee of a brief sketch of the city that has suc- seventeen citizens to investigate and re- cessfully developed the idea of a Peo- port upon the general plan and outline ple's Chamber of Commerce may not be of an advisory charter of the commission out of place here. type. This committee studied the char- Spokane has an interesting, if brief, ters of all the commission systems of city history. The first settlement was made government of the United States, and in the summer of 1872, when a handful after five months of investigation report- of sturdy people gathered at the site of ed an advisory commission charter to the the Spokane Falls, after which the village mayor of Spokane and recommended the was named. Earlier it was the home of adoption of a commission charter by the trappers and hunters, who sold their pelts people. This report and recommendation to the Hudson's Bay Company and the was transmitted by the mayor to the city Astors, who in turn maintained the Spo- council, accompanied by a recommenda- kane house, before the Oregon country tion that the city council appoint a spe- became part of the United States. The cial election for the purpose of choosing first saw and grist mill was erected in a board of freeholders to frame a pro- 1876, the water of the Spokane Falls fur- posed charter for the city. The city nishing the power to turn the old-fash- council did not comply with this recom- ioned wheel. The first banking institu- mendation. A petition of citizens then tion was organized in 1879, in which requested the council to call an election year the first newspaper was established. for the same purpose, to which request The Northern Pacific Railway Com- the mayor again added his recommenda- pany entered from the west two years tion. The city council declined to act. A afterward, and the people decided to in- voluntary committee of citizens then ob- corporate as a town. There were 500 in- tained and filed a petition signed by 5075 habitants at that time. Robert W. For- qualified electors of Spokane, requesting rest, a native of Pennsylvania, was the the council to call a freeholders' election. first mayor. The second flour mill and After considerable delay the city council another newspaper were established in appointed the first Tuesday in May, 1911, 1881, and the town began to take on me- as the date for the election of a free- tropolitan airs when, in 1882, it was made holders' charter revision committee. The the permanent county seat. The Union citizens' committee, by mandamus pro- Pacific line came in 1890, and the Great ceedings in the Superior Court of Spo- Northern line came in 1892-3. kane County, and in the Supreme Court The first disastrous blaze occurred in of Washington, compelled the city coun- 1883, and was followed in the summer cil to appoint the 27th day of September, of 1889 by a fire which wiped out thirty 1910, for the freeholders' election. blocks in the business district, causing THE MID-PACIFIC. 385 losses aggregating more than $5,000,000. It is believed the word is from the lan- It was the first real test, but the people guage of the Indians who formerly hunt- were undaunted and the work of rebuild- ed and fished on what is now the site of ing was begun almost as soon as the ruins the city. Even the early interpreters of cooled. The fire limits were extended, the language are at variance in their un- and the city council adopted and enforced derstanding of the meaning of the word an ordinance prohibiting the erection of Spokane. Ross Cox, an early writer, says wooden structures within the boundary "the chief of the tribe was known as established. Spokane thus escaped the `Illim-Spokane,' which means 'Son of the shanty period. Sun,' " From this and from the nature The growth of the city began with the of the country, being more open and hav- completion of the first railroad and its ing more sunshine than the habitat of the progress has been substantial and rapid. Colvilels, in the valleys to the north, or In less than ten years, from 1881 to 1890, the Coeur d'Alenes, whose hunting it attained a population of 19,222, accord- grounds were in the mountains and foot- ing to federal census, while in 1900 the hills to the east, the tribal name is inter- official count showed 36,842. A postal preted to mean "Children of the Sun.,' census, authorized by the city, state and The men of Spokane may well be call- federal governments, taken in June, 1907, ed the "Children of the Sun." They have gave 77,584 within the city limtis, 7500 let the sunshine in on politics, and have in the limits since incorporated, and confounded the politicians. The Spokane 11,000 employed in railroad and mining idea of a chamber of commerce, com- camps and making homes in Spokane. posed of every man willing to support The federal census of 1910 gave Spokane such an organization, is needed in every 104,402 population. city, not only of Western America, but Much has been written of the deriva- around the Pacific and in the islands of tion of the word Spokane, pronounced the Great Ocean. Let the people get "Spo-kan," but little is definitely known.together.

ealifornia expost 19M-FirtireYem. . 07 SanOiage end Bal l S;

San Diego. 386 THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Pali. The Story of Hawaii.

There are several ways of going hour stage ride back to Honolulu over around the island of Oahu, starting from the Pali. The fare to Kahuku is $2.15 Honolulu. one way, or $3.55 round trip, made in a You may race around the island by day ; the fare on the Koolau Railway is auto in a few hours. You may travel by about fifty cents, and the fare by Japanese rail and coach in a day, you may go by or Chinese bus back to Honolulu, from bicycle, by boat or afoot. Try each one to two dollars. method in turn. Even in the month of There is an excellent hotel at Haleiwa, July it is posible without a hat. fifty-six miles out, and a smaller place The most popular route is either by at Hauula, on the Koolau Railway, near rail or auto, $6.50 covering the expense the famous Kaliuwaa Valley and Falls. of either, unless you wish to make a two- The ride by rail is first through Orien- day trip of it with night stop overs at the tal Honolulu, then through Chinese rice Haleiwa Hotel and at Wahiawa, the pine- fields plowed by hairless water oxen, apple center. The Oahu Railway makes through banana plantations and cane a ten-dollar excursion rate for this two- fields. Pearl City and harbor is but day trip. twelve miles from Honolulu. Here in There is a fast through train from Ho- this magnificent natural harbor the fleets nolulu at about 8 :30 and a local a little of the world might anchor for there are after nine a. m., and again a little after miles of channel forty feet deep. Here three in the afternoon, besides several are building the greatest fortifications trains to the pineapple district. and dry docks that have been planned by The Oahu Railway runs more than the United States Government. half-way around the island, from Hono- A visit to the peninsula, on which lulu to Kahuku, 71 miles along the beach. Pearl City is situated, is well worth Another railway connects at Kahuku and while, a branch line of the railway car- takes the passengers about 30 miles fur- ries you its entire length. ther to Kahana, from whence it is a five- A short walk in any direction brings

387 388 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Kaena Point, Oahu's Northwest Point.

you to one of the lochs and affords a sugar, while the bagasse or refuse cane splendid view of one branch of the har- is automatically dumped into the furnaces bor. Sailing boats may be secured and that boil the syrup into sugar. That a voyage around the islands and up the pours into the automatic separators. arms of Pearl Harbor. The giant dredg- From these the sugar is carried by auto- ers and the great drydock being con- matic machinery and poured into bags structed are worth visiting, and the fish- that are automatically opened to receive ing in the harbor is usually excellent. just so many pounds of sugar and then Many Honolulu families make their sum- automatically sewn up and carried by mer homes in Pearl City. automatic trolley to the storehouse to Just beyond Pearl City is the Ewa await the steamer into the hold of which plantation, the most productive sugar the bags will be automatically dumped. lands in the world. There are 40 miles You may see the whole process at won- of private railway on this sugar planta- derful Ewa. tion and a dozen different villages of a Just beyond Ewa is the first sisal plan- dozen different nationalities. Great wa- tation and mill. You may, if you wish, ter works pump up a hundred million stop and see this century plant growing gallons of water a day to irrigate the out of barren soil, cut down, carried to cane, and it is interesting to watch long the mill and turned into a flax-like trains of cars loaded with cane that pass product. the mill and are unburdened automatical- Soon the scenic splendor of the round- ly. Here the planters hope soon to be the-island trip begins. The train passes able to plant seed automatically ( for their along at the base of the beautiful Wai- chemists produce cane raised from seed), anae mountains. The sea dashing up to irrigate automatically, and reap automa- the railway tracks on one side, verdure tically, as they plough automatically to- clad peaks rising on the other to a height day by giant steam plows. Once the cane of 4000 feet. is lifted automatically to the cars the rest The entire ride is now impressive in of the process is automatic. The cars are the extreme until Waialua and the Hale- unloaded by an endless steel grip, carried iwa Hotel are reached. A drive or walk to the grinders, crushed, the juice ex- through the Waialua plantation is of in- tracted, and automatically turned into terest. The sugar mill produces 150 tons THE MID-PACIFIC. 389

Mouth of Waimea River, Across Kaiaka Bay. of sugar a day, and it takes nearly 3000 the next morning a carriage will take men of many nationalities ( mostly Orien- you to Waialua Plantation, a short dis- tals) to produce the 35,000 tons of sugar tance away, where you will have an op- that the 10,000 acres of this estate an- portunity to visit an up-to-date sugar nually produce. mill, returning to the hotel in time for A day at Waialua is apt to be prolonged, luncheon, and at 2 :00 o'clock in the after- for there is golfing, swimming in the noon you again leave by carriage for a sea or in the fresh water lake in front of drive to Wahiawa pineapple plantations, the hotel. where you may see this new island indus- There is the choice of three methods of try in all its stages. A train leaves Wa- return, the way you came, entirely hiawa after the plantations have been in- around the island, or through the pine- spected, arriving in Honolulu at 5:30 apple country between the Waianae and p. 111., ending a pleasant trip that has oc- Koolau ranges -of mountains. cupied two days of your stay in the isl- . If you decide on the first it is well to ands. Tickets are sold at the railway sta- have at hand the following bit of infor- tion every morning except Saturday and mation put forth by the Railway Com- Sunday." pany: Should you decide to go entirely "Step on either a King or Beretania around the island, there are two trains a street car, westbound, and it will take you day from Honolulu or Haleiwa, to Ka- direct to the station of the Oahu Railway. huku, the Koolau Railway trains con- A train leaving at 9:15 a. m. will take necting with the morning train. It is you to Haleiwa Hotel, where you arrive best to phone the Haleiwa and Hauula shortly before luncheon. This will be hotels in advance. served on the broad lanais, after which From Haleiwa the train ride is along you may spend the afternoon according the beach at the foot of the pali, or cliff ; to yor desires. There are fine golf links, the Industrial training school is passed good tennis courts and bathing or boating and this is well worth a visit. Here more within a short distance of the house. than a hundred boys who have been mis- Dinner is served at night in the well-ap- chievous or wayward are taught to farm. pointed dining-room. At 9:00 o'clock At Kahuku, the end of the main line, an- 3(10 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Through Rice and Pineapples. other string of sugar plantations begin. chines are stalled in making the ascent. The Koolau Railway passes through the The ride back from the Pali to Honolulu Laie Mormon settlement, where a large is made without power. This trip is one church and village are maintained, and that no isitor should miss. The valley reaches Hauula in time for late lunch. is one of the most beautiful, and is the It is hoped that auto busses will soon be most historic on the island. Here Ka- placed in operation between Kahana, the mehameha the Great drove the Oahuan present terminal of the Koolau Railway, army for miles until a thousand or more and Honolulu, by way of the Pali road. were driven over the pali, or precipice, Perhaps it is the automobile round the and dropped sheer hundreds of feet to island run that is most popular. Hono- the rocks below where their skulls and lulu autoists make the run every day, the bones may still be found after more than route being over the Pali and thence to one hundred years. The site of the the Haleiwa hotel and back through the fortress built by the great Hawaiian king center of the island and the pineapple is still shown. As the auto ascends the country. valley, Honolulu and the sea behind is For a party of five or more the cost of spread out a wonderful panorama. In this trip is $6.50 per head. It is best to fact, this trip should always be made in phone to the other side of the island and two directions—going and comng. learn the state of the weather, as it often The Pali view bursts on the stranger rains on the other side of the mountain as a great surprise. The auto creeps range when it is perfectly dry in Hono- laboriously up an incline between two lulu, and a tropical downpour in the city rocky walls. Suddenly these open, re- does not mean that a drop of rain will vealing a precipice hundreds of feet deep ; fall a few miles away. more than a thousand feet below is The ride to the Pali is up the perfect spread a rich tropical valley that ends at Nuuanu road for six miles. The autos the sea. On either side now tower moun- always go this way as the slope up to the tains over 2000 feet above the Pali. In 1200 foot ascent is gradual. The ride one direction you glance along a wall of down the face of the Pali on the other green, miles in length and more than half side is steep to a degree, and many ma- a mile high ; at its base, miles of guava ; • THE Ail 0-PACIFIC. 391

Through Sisal and Sugar Cane.

in the other direction, mountain peaks, be picked, without going more than a few plain and sea. There is a broad plateau steps perhaps, weighing 12 pounds or here where everyone invariably alights to more. These pines are so sweet that it enjoy the view. Then there is the wind- is possible to can them without the addi- ing descent with an ever-changing vista tion of sugar. Their flavor is unsur- at each new bend, the ride through the passed, for these are the pines that have level guava lands, a spin through little made Hawaii famous of recent years. Hawaiian villages, a glimpse here and It is at Wahiawa that you may visit there, far up a valley on the hillside, of Ku-kani-loko, the birthplace of chiefs. a grass house of the natives, a ride along Two places were set apart for the the beach where sometimes quicksands birthplaces of chiefs. They gave a sacred and a bad road, that is being re-built, character to the chiefs born there. Ku- make weary the heart of the autoist, then kani-loko was the place at Waialua, the spin to Haleiwa, a good dinner and Oahu. Holoholoku was at Wailua, the ride back through the pineapple re- Kauai. gion . Ku-kani-loko was built up by Nanaka First there is the long climb up the oko and Kahihiokolani, her husband, as hills from the hotel to the table lands, a the place where their son Kapawa could few miles by the gulches, until the dam be born. They began the setting apart of the irrigation company at Wahiawa, of places for the birth of chiefs. Rows the home of the pineapple, is reached. of stones were laid out on the right hand There is a hotel here, on the edge of the and on the left, turning the face toward irrigation ditch„which is here a river on the north. which steam launches and other craft There stood thirty-six chiefs ; eighteen ply for miles in either direction. on each side. They had a humpback The pineapple fields stretch across the standing at the end of the line mauka, plains to the mountains. There are those or inland. Ku-kani-loko was a stone to who will point out a row of pines and tell against. When the woman came, you that it extends in a straight line for she leaned against this stone, the arms six miles ; cetrain it is you can not see to resting on supports, the limbs raised, the its end. Some of these luscious fruit may body reclining. Thus the child was born. 392 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Toward Koko Head.

This was called the birth of a divine The ideal way of seeing the scenery of chief who became Ahi-wela, a "hot-fire," the Hawaiian Islands is afoot. In July signifying the Tabu degree of the chief's or December you may walk around the rank. island of Oahu, and at no time find the When the child was born, it was taken temperature above 80 degrees, and al- to the cold waters of Hoolonopahu. ways the gentle trade breeze blowing. There forty-eight chiefs were directing If you are prepared to camp out, or the ceremonies for the child. Far off sleep on the beaches, start at any time, on the west of Ku-kani-loko was beaten from Waikiki beach. There is a cut the drum of Hawea, a sign that a chief across the rice paddies of Waikiki, and was born. The makaainana or common then out through Kaimuki, back of Dia- people stood on the eastern side of the mond Head through the kiawe (alga- stream on the side Kuaikua, numbering roba ) forest to the bungalow, that six nano (thousands). miles beyond, awaits your camping for On the western side far away, stood the night. An early start and you may the Kauwa (servants). But if chiefs skirt the shore, for the walk beyond Dia- were born outside at the place of the mond Head is one that has its thrills. humpback, or if chiefs were born along There is the great black point of lava to the road, they were chiefs, but not Tabu. cross, where the waves leap up over the They were Mawaho, outside. Kameha- highest rocks, and then the quiet beach meha wanted Keopuolani to have her beneath the everlasting kiawe that grows child here and brought her to this place, wherever there is sand. but failed. They had to return. Soon the Trail and Mountain Club will The ride in from Wahiawa is by way have rest and camp houses along this of winding gulches, over ridges and route so that it may be made accessible through the Moanalua estate. It is also to all trampers alike. Take torches for possible to return to Honolulu by rail. night fishing, or with lamps as torches, In fact, it is possible to go out to Wa- held high above your heads you may hiawa by train in the morning and return wade a mile out in waist deep water to the same day, but as there are delightful the edge of the reef where the waves mountain trails to explore in this region, break. Sometimes there is a flash of red boat rides to enjoy, military camps and through the water and down goes your ranches to visit, it is advisable to make spear—to just miss a fish. In the coral Wahiawa headquarters for several days' of the outer reef are squid (cuttle fish) outing. and the native lobster. You must dive THE MID-PACIFIC. 393

Golf Links at Haleiwa. outside the reef to catch the lobster and rocks and dashes itself high in air. Just tear him from the coral, and it was even before Koko crater is the spouting horn, more difficult to tear the squid first from and nearby a cave facing the sea, its floor the coral arm and then from your arm, to decorated with Hawaiian Hieroglypics. which he clings with all his tentacles. Beyond Koko crater is Makapuu point It takes time to acquire the native method and the lighthouse. So far there is a of biting out the eye of the squid, and wagon road. Beyond only a foot trail. so killing him. The lighthouse is on the extreme point The water is 76 and refreshing, but of the island, high up on the precipitous then the waters of Hawaii are 76 degrees rocks, and thrilling indeed is the walk the year around. along this trail that clings to the face of It is best to cook an early breakfast and the rocks. Often it is necessary to place be away among the cocoanut groves of both arms out against the rock and pro- Niu valley (niu is the Polynesian word ceed slowly and cautiously. for cocoanut). There is a cave in the After climbing down from the high cliffs facing the sea, within which are trail you come to a bit of beach that has three canoes, each containing a skeleton. not its equal on the island. Here waves These cave-burying places are common in lift you gently and hurl you toward the Hawaii. In some of them is found tapa beach. It is probably the most perfectly that is hundreds of years old. adapted surf in the world for body surf- Approach is now made to the dry ing. You merely swim out a hundred country. The hills are lower and the yards, turn, spread your arms out and let moisture laden clouds drift over them. the foaming billow catch you, curl your It is all the world like a trip through the body, feet above head and so carry you Holy Land. Now you pass the largest to the beach where the receding wave native fish pond in the Islands and come leaves you high and dry. When hungry, to the region of Koko Head. There is a feast on opihi (shell fish) that may be little arm of the sea here, Hanauma Bay, gathered from the rocks. that is a perfect natural harbor. Here The tramp down the Koolau, or windy lovers of the rod come to fish. side of Oahu, is of far greater scenic in- Beyond, the surf leaps against the terest than the ride along the leeward 394 THE MID-PACIFIC.

About the Hotel at Haleiwa

coast. In the sea, a mile from shore per- Kaneohe bay is ten miles long, the haps, are rocky islets near which natives channels to the sea are 90 feet deep. in canoes fish. The mountains that on There is always a gentle breeze and sail- the other side of the island break into ing of small craft is safer here than any- delectable valleys now rise sheer walls of where else in the islands for the bay is green as steep as the side of a house. entirely land and reef locked. Near On this side of the island is an old heiau, Heeia is a small island in the bay crown- or native temple. Now follow the iron ed with cocoanut trees, and five miles piping that for four miles carries the away an acre of white sand that rises to water from the Waimanalo plantation to the surface. Here campers raise a tent the lighthouse. For at that end of the and here the children paddle out half a island it seldom rains. mile in the waters in perfect safety. All Once more you are among the cane along the shore of Kaneohe bay the fields, and here at the base of the Pali scenery is charming in the extreme ; be- hills began to rise again. You have yond the mountains come down to the walked 30 miles from Honolulu and at sea. There are valleys that it would pay the base of the Nuuanu Pali are ten anyone to explore for days. miles from the city, but the round the At Waiahole a splendid trail leads island tramp, familiar to the average across the mountain range to Pearl Har- walker on the islands, is now just about bor, a sixteen-mile tramp. to begin. At Kahana the railway around the You may safely camp on the sands by island begins, and a tramp up this valley the sea, in the Waimanalo sugar mill, fully repays the sightseer. You may outdoors or under any kind of shelter. telephone down the line and engage a An early morning start is usually made gasoline hand car for sightseeing along by those who set out from Honolulu to the Koolau railway. Or you may tramp tramp over the Pali, the first stop, usual- through the cane fields or along the beach ly for lunch, being at Kaneohe, twelve a few miles further to Hauula. Here a miles from the city. This is the location resting place for the night is to be found. ideal for a city, for it is on the windward From this point begins the trail into Ka- side of Oahu island where it is several liuwaa valley, or gorge, a tramp of per- degrees cooler than on the leeward side. haps three miles to the highest and pretti- THE MID-PACIFIC. 395 est waterfalls on the island of Oahu. raging brooklets and hear the splash of They- come tumbling down a hundred feet waterfalls. In all the island there is no over the precipice at the extreme end of such walk as this. the gorge. To one side of the falls is A rest at Hauula and a dip in the sea the great gulley in the rock that gives where the swimming is exceptional lim- the valley its name Kaliuwaa, which bers up all the stiff joints. There are means leaky canoe. In the old days when numerous kuleanas, or little holdings, in a certain queen of Oahu was pursued she this region, some belong to natives and escaped to this gorge and leaning her are given to taro patches, others near the canoe against the precipice and climbed sea are the summer homes of wealthy to the valleys above. The imprint of the Honolulu families. Often these are canoe was left in the rock and to this day crowded with week-end parties that come the water trickles from its seams. down by auto. A mile or so Paliward of Kaliuwaa The walk is now along the beach and valley is Punaluu valley and the begin- through the Mormon settlement and a ning of the trail that leads up the moun- visit to these bee-hive people is not un- tain range behind the falls. This trail interesting. A few miles beyond is Ka- ascends 2000 feet and continues for eight huku point (just half way around Oahu miles. It is to be extended by the Trail from Honolulu, if you return by way of and Mountain Club over the range into Wahiawa). Here, 39 miles from Hono- Wahiawa in one direction, and in another lulu, is the wireless tower, from which along the mountain crest until it con- messages have been flashed to San Fran- nects with an existing trail that ends at cisco, 2100 miles away. Over shimmer- Kahuku, as the extreme point of the is- ing sands the trail now leads to the Boys' land in a straight line from Makapuu is Reform School, and a few hours here called. with the boys on their model farm that This trail reveals the finest bits of brings the state a profit over all expenses, tropical scenery in all Oahu. Six miles is not wasted. The homesteads now up in the mountains is a rest house and stretch out, along the narrow strip be- camping place. The first part of the trail tween the mountains and the sea. Some is through Punaluu valley, and then over of these homesteads are up on the table the foot hills through extensive groves lands beyond vision from the beach, of the lauhala, or screw palm. Next the where the homesteaders plant pineapples. region of the ohia forest is reached and The walk back to Honolulu may be then 1500 feet above the sea, the true made entirely around the island and the and gigantic native palms of Hawaii. Waianae mountains following the railway You are walking now along the face of track, or across the pineapple country. the mountain. Gorges and valleys below There's a good opportunity now to ascend you and the shimmering sea beyond. Oahu's highest peak, Kaala, over 4000 Around sudden promontories you turn feet above the sea. into torrential showers, and then out of Either way, walking gives a more inti- some little gulch that has caught the rain- mate acquaintance than can any other cloud into sunshine again. You cross method of getting about. 11 EDITORIAL COMMENT

TROPICAL FRUIT PESTS. HEAT IN THE TROPICS.

California and the fruit States of the Popular fiction of the ages has given West spend millions annually fighting the reading world an idea that the tropics fruit pests with sprays and other ener- are unbearably hot. getic methods. In the tropics where no So far as the tropics in the Pacific are concerned this is a false impression. winter intervenes to. mitigate the fruit Hawaii is just within the tropics ; pest nuisance and give the human worker here, even on the seacoast, the thermom- the upper hand for the time being, spray- eter never rises above 85 degrees Fahr- ing is practically unknown. The fruit enheit, while on the mountain tops there growers send scientists throughout the are frosty nights the year round and world to discover the parasite that will snow even in July. destroy the particular fruit pests they In Fiji, nearer the equator, it is wish eradicated—and the thing is done. warmer. In Suva the heat at times is Years ago the leaf-hopper threatened oppressive, but there is no more health- the Hawaiian sugar industry with ruin. ful, cooling and delightful cruise in all The sugar planters sent men everywhere the world than that of the windward in search of the parasite of the leaf- Fijian islands. hopper. It was found and brought to Samoa has its oppressive days, but the Hawaii, fed on the leaf-hopper until clothing worn by the white man there is there were no leaf-hoppers left, and the same as that worn by the Londoner everything was lovely for the sugar or New Yorker. The heat in Samoa is planter. In like manner, when the lan- seldom oppressive when no exertion is tana began to overspread the grazing undertaken. The white man quickly grounds of Hawaii, scientists were sent adapts himself to the climate and dreams throughout the world to find a parasite his life away in peaceful ecstacy. Once that would destroy the lantana plant. he has come beneath the thrall of the Parasites that attack the root and para- coco palm he loses all desire to return to sites that attack the leaves were brought cooler climes. to Hawaii, and today there are miles of In Queensland, Australia, which is in lantana so covered with blight that it the tropics, the white man works eight would seem that a fire had spread over hours a day in the canefields under a the diseased area. tropical sun, and is none the worse for In South Africa and in Australia they his exertions. In the tropic Pacific dark- have discovered a spray that will save ness does not set in at sundown with the ninety-five per cent of the fruit from the suddenness of a cannon shot. In Ha- ravages of the fruit-fly. Hawaii is send- waii there is an hour of light after sun- ing scientists to Central Africa, the orig- down, and in Samoa half as much. inal home of the fruit-fly, to find its nat- It is about time that some of the ural parasite. Somewhere the parasite myths of tropical climate be dispelled. that feeds upon the maggot of the fruit- In Hawaii and the islands of the Pacific fly will be found, and if this parasite will sunstroke is unknown, and in Honolulu, also make short work of the common in July, when the thermometer never house-fly it will be worth all the Medi- rises above 85 degrees, and the nights are terranean fruit-fly has cost the fruit cool, the people read with wonder the growers of the world to discover its cables telling of deaths from heat in all parasite and destroyer. the great northern cities of America.

396 ENCYCLOPEDIA and GUIDE to Hawaii Icez Pacific

Fully Illustrated with Maps and Photographs

7-M. P. 102 THE MID-PACIFIC.

To Honolulu and the South Seas

There are two ways to Hawaii, Aus- The Union Steamship Co. makes a tralia and Japan. From San Francisco specialty of its cruises. There are or from Vancouver. From San Fran- cruises, annually, to the wonderful cisco the Oceanic S. S. Co. dispatches West Coast sounds of New Zealand, one of its boats every two weeks to Ho- grander than the Fjords of Norway. nolulu. Every four weeks one of its ves- There are monthly cruises to the Cook sels stops at Honolulu and goes on to Islands and Tahiti, where direct con- Australia, where connection is made with nection is made for San Francisco, and the fleet of the Union S. S. Co. of New weekly trips around New Zealand and Zealand. on to Tasmania, Victoria, and New The Matson Navigation Co. also navi- South Wales. gates vessels to Hawaii, and through The American-Hawaiian Steamship tickets to Australia are sold from San Company maintains a direct Honolulu- Francisco by this line. The Pacific Mail New York freight service, via the dispatches a steamer for the Orient every Isthmus of Tehuantepec. These boats ten days, stopping at Honolulu. carry sugar from the plantations in Hawaii to Salina Cruz, the Pacific It is 2400 miles from Vancouver to port of the Tehuantepec railway, Honolulu, and the fare by the Cana- where transshipment is made, the ves- dian-Australian monthly palatial sels of the American-Hawaiian S. S. steamers is $65.00 up, first-class. The Co. awaiting the cargo sixty miles through fare to Australia is $200, with away at the Atlantic end of the Isth- stop-over privileges. These Pacific mian railway line. Very low freight Ocean greyhounds stop for a day in rates are made by the American-Ha- Honolulu on the trips to and from the waiian Company to shippers sending Australian Colonies. The vessels of goods from Eastern markets to Hono- this Trans-Pacific line belong to the lulu. The sailings are frequent. For Union S. S. Co. of New Zealand, the further information third largest steamship company fly- apply to Hack- f eld & Co., Agents, Fort ing the British flag, and with its fleet street, of seventy ocean-going steamers by Honolulu, or the New York offices of far the largest steamship company op- the American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. erating in the Pacific. The Vancouver-Australia boats also stop for a day at Suva, Fiji, where the native of the South Seas may be seen in his pristine simplicity. A month's stop-over, both in Hawaii and Suva, may be made to advantage. Cruising rates among the beautiful Fijian Islands by comfortable steamers cost but $2.50 a day. By the splendid big cruising steamers of the Union Steam- ship Co. there is a monthly cruise in either direction, from Auckland to Sydney. stopping at ports of Fiji. Sa- moa and the Tongan Islands ; the fare on these cruises being $5 a day. THE MID-PACIFIC. 103 The New South Wales Tourist Bureau

tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of rare magnificence. Through countless centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- dous gorges, comparable only to the famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp tus covered slopes give off health-giving odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring panoramas, impress themselves on the memory of the mountain visitor. The wonderful system of limestone caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- tions, which must for ever remain the despair of the painter, the photographer and the writer. The world has no more Physical configuration and a wide marvelous or beautiful system of caves range of climate give the State of New than these at Jenolan, which tourists South Wales its wonderful diversity of from everywhere have marked as their scenery, its abundance of magnificent own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- plemented and rivalled by the extensive ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this systems at Womheyan and Yarrangobil- bewildering array of scenic attractions, ly, a little further away from Sydney. and the peculiar strangeness of the forms In the south on the Australian Alps, of its animal and vegetable life, which lies the unique Kosciusko Range, which makes New South Wales one of the most contains the highest peak in the Conti- interesting countries in the world, and nent, and is said to be the oldest land sur- one which an up-to-date, well-traveled face on the globe. The Hotel Kosciusko, tourist must see. a modern spa, replete with every conve- The climate of the State ranges from nience, golf links and tennis courts, an the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the ideal tourist headquarters, stands at an sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- altitude of 6000 feet. In summer, the ers, and withal is one of the most equable mountaineer and trout fisherman stays in the world. Its eastern shore is washed here to enjoy the majestic scenery at the by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific summit, or fill his bag with fish caught and stretches by meadow, tableland and in a handy stream, and in winter the ski- mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath runner, tobogganer and ice-skater revels the rim of the setting sun. in the Alpine carnivals conducted on the Sydney, the capital, is the great tour- glistening snowfields. ist rendezvous. It is an important com- The Government Tourist Bureau, a mercial center, but the incomparable splendidly equipped Institution at Challis beauty of its situation has given it wide- House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- spread fame as a holiday city. Its mighty mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to harbor with its peculiar and sustained all inquirers in connection with the tour- beauty, is the talk of the world. North ist resorts of the State. Special itinera- and South from the capital is flung the ries are planned, and everything possible rugged Pacific coast, with its line of done by the Bureau to facilitate the golden dazzling beaches, the palpitating mcvementc and put to the best use the haunts of the surf bather. time of visitors while in New South Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- Wales 104 THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co., Ltd, Office Queen , Honolulu—Phone 1811. THE MID-PACIFIC. 105 THE STORY of HAWAII TOLD BY MAPS. on this page, the courtesy of Alex- ander & Baldwin, tells the story. To speak of the sugar industry in Ha- waii is to suggest "Alexander & Bald- win" as its pioneers to the mind's eye; this Hawaiian firm represents to the world the agency for the Hawaiian Com- mercial & Sugar Co., Haiku Sugar Co., Paia Plantation, Maui Agricultural Company, Hawaiian Sugar Company, Kahuku Plantation Company, Kahu- lui Railroad Company, Haleakala Ranch Company, Honolua Ranch, McBryde Sugar Co., a Swiss Ma- rine Insurance Co., a New Zealand In- surance Co., a German, a British and several American fire insurance com- panies, besides that of a general Acci- dent, Fire and Life Insurance Co. Moreover, besides the head office in the Stangenwald building in Honolulu, there are spacious Alexander & Baldwin Alexander a Baldwin offices on the mainland—in San Fran- Kauai, the "Garden Island," is the cisco, 426 California Street ; 500 Mehl- most northerly of the Hawaiian Group horn building, Seattle ; and in New on which sugar is grown. The map York city at 82 Wall Street.

aNOlulu NORMF

IV ovation 5 em NanaiWU88 hjtie er X1,0r0 Peoptc rse Sugar Plan to roes o p for 1967. 7 106 THE MID-PACIFIC. CASTLE 4 COOKE. Away back in 1837 S. N. Castle and Amos S. Cooke came to Honolulu. They at once be- came partners, and in 1851 organized the firm of Castle & Cooke. The firm and its business grew with Honolulu. General merchandise was given up so that their attention could be devoted solely to the sugar, commission, shipping and in- surance business. The firm in the summer of 1910 moved into the splendid quarters it now occupies, at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets. In the spacious corner office the business of the Mat- son Navigation Company is conducted, Castle & Cooke being its agents. In the Fort street of- fices, all on the ground floor, are the general offices of the firm ; here is conducted the execu- Castle & Cooke Building. tive business of Ewa Plantation Company, the Waialua Agricultural Co., Ltd., Kohala Sugar Co., Waimea Sugar Mill Co., Apokaa Sugar Co., Ltd., and the Wahi- and the London Assurance Corporation, awa Water Co., Ltd. Here also is and Freeman Fund Ins. Co. (Marine). located the agency of the Fulton Iron The present officers of Castle & Cooke, Ltd., which is a close corporation, with Works of St. Louis, Babcock & Wilcox Boilers, Green's Fuel Economizers. capital stock of $2,000,000, owned by the directors, are Geo. P. Castle, presi- Castle & Cook, Ltd., are also agents in dent; E. D. Tenney, 1st vice-president Hawaii for the following insurance com- and manager ; W. A. Bowen, 2nd vice- panies: The New England Life Insur- president ; T. H. Petrie, secretary ; C. H. ance Co. of Boston, Aetna Ins. Co., Na- Atherton, treasurer ; L. T. Peck, auditor, tional Fire Ins. Co., Citizens' Ins. Co., and F. C. Atherton, director.

■1 K(410, 60,000 Feupie Di pm..C114.0 PilkS 3,400 Miffs L :arcs t Ita4Y4 4)14,1(5 Co,ernttlf:t Ravi arokora Ithrd FIrst-class Rwirdqd Stoter 50-¢v, Crop for 1907 liwt3ro THE MID-PACIFIC. 107

THE STORY OF HAWAII TOLD BY MAPS. The Island of Maui.

The firm of C. Brewer & Co., Ltd., of the directors of the Hawaiian Fer- dates back to December 8, 1817. Sandal- tilizer Co., Ltd., the works of which are wood was one of the first articles dealt in the Iwilei district of Honolulu, where in by this firm. In 1859 the present firm the fertilizer is stored in the largest con- crete building west of the Mississippi name was adopted. This is one of the river. This concern has branch works oldest American business houses not on in San Francisco, for the Hawaiian Fer- the mainland. Naturally the firm took tilizer Co. supplies many of the farmers an important part in the development of of California with their fertilizers. the sugar industry in Hawaii. In 1883 More than twenty thousand tons of the firm became a corporation, and as earth food are made at the Iwilei works such it exists today, deeply interested in every year. Samples of the soils that the development of the sugar industry are to grow sugar, rice, taro, bananas, and agents for the Oceanic Steamship or flowers, are analyzed, and the neces- Company. Many of the most prominent sary fertilizer manufactured to properly business men Hawaii has produced have feed the soil, and it is seldom that any served as officers and directors of C. two soils demand the same ingredients Brewer & Co. In another half decade in the make-up of the fertilizer. this oldest business house in Hawaii will The Company has its business office celebrate its hundredth anniversary. on Queen street, phone 2772, and here The Brewer building is the head office all information may be obtained.

HONOLULU NORMAL SCHOOL

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Ltngth 48 Iles, Brea Hthzsr Elevation t oa3x Feel inc CTOfdr in the Wor4d Population over 45.oao from n Sugar Phntot.,ns Crop Far c V. r=,15 108 THE MID-PACIFIC. The Island of Molohai.

The firm of Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., was The soil of Hawaii is of a character established in Honolulu October 1, 1849. that requires fertilization to a great In the whaling days this firm had a large share of that business. They made large extent. When one speaks of the fer- importations of merchandise in their tilizer business of Hawaii, he speaks own vessels, were the agents for the old- of the Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co. est sugar plantations in the Islands, and The majority of the sugar and pine- for the first steamers plying between apple plantations are supplied by this San Francisco, Honolulu and Australia. company. A very large concern today, This firm is now agent for the Pacific the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Co. is Mail steamers. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., the outgrowth of a small industry has done much to establish the coffee in- which followed the discovery of rich dustry in Hawaii, erecting coffee mills guano deposits on Laysan Island. and providing capital for the planters. It costs, ordinarily, $50 an acre to fer- The building of the firm of Hackfeld & tilize pineapple lands, unless it is the Co. in Honolulu is the finest business fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and building in that city, and in Hilo this Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the progressive firm has also given the city expense is cut in half. If you need fer- a business block that it may be proud of. tilizer for your garden or your planta- The firm has a branch office in San tion, call up Phone No. 1585, and the Francisco, importing nothing from Eu- Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Co. will rope except such articles as are required gladly advise you, making a chemical for the manufacture of fertilizer, the analysis of the soil, if necessary, and purchases of the Company being confined mixing the fertilizer in accord with the almost exclusively to the United States. demands of the soil. The Island of

For Hawaii, direct boats leave Hono- cascades leap. The railway crosses deep every Tuesday morning at 10 o'clock, gulches and tropical ravines, and trav- arrive in Hilo at the railway wharf erses rich sugar plantations. Every mile at daylight Wednesday, in time for of the Hilo railway is of interest. an early breakfast at the Hilo Hotel, or There are two hotels in Hilo, the Hilo you may take the train for Kilauea at the Hotel and the Demosthenes. The rates wharf at daylight Wednesday, reaching at the Hilo Hotel are : $4.00 a day, or Volcano House, at the edge of the crater, $24.00 a week ; and at the Demosthenes : in time for lunch. The Hilo railway $2.50 per day and $15.00 a week. owns about fifty miles of standard gauge The Volcano Stables maintain auto track, and runs daily trains to the Vol- and stage routes around the greater part cano of Kilauea, making connection with of the island and will send parties entirely auto busses for the last 8 miles up the around. The stage fares are : Hilo to mountain side. The railway and auto Laupahoehoe, 28 miles, $2.50, a drive fare from Hilo to the Volcano is four only rivalled in beauty by the upper Cor- dollars one way ; the Volcano House rates niche road in southern France, and the are $5.00 per day or $24.50 per week. Amalfi-Sorento drive, Italy. A steamer for the island of Maui and Honolulu may Another branch of the Hilo railway runs daily trains to Pahoa, the Ohia lum- be caught at Laupahoehoe. Another ber mill of the Hawaiian Development steamer port, for the boats that touch at Co., and to Kapoho, in Puna, where the the Kona district and proceed direct to medicinal warm springs are located. It Honolulu, is Kawaihae, a ride of 80 miles is expected that a small hotel will be from Hilo, through a country of varied located here at an early date. The Hilo and entrancing interest ; fare ten dollars Railway Company is now laying rails by the Volcano Stables busses, or horse northward to Hakalau. This section of and buggy may be hired for $3.00 to Hawaii, between Hilo and Laupahoehoe, $4.00 per day. Mr. Wright is manager is one of the most beautiful from a scenic of the Volcano Stables Co. and can be standpoint, in the world. Ever snow- communicated with by mail or wire- capped Mauna Kea, nearly 14,000 feet less at Hilo. The Volcano Stables are high, slopes down to the sea, and then connected around the island of Hawaii descends by steep precipices, over which by phone. 110 THE MID-PACIFIC.

AROUND OAHU ISLAND BY RAIL

By rail you may travel 100 miles from the splendid golf links, the tennis court, Honolulu, visiting the richest sugar plan- or in bathing or out boating. Dinner is tations in the world, the largest pineapple served at night in the well-appointed din- fields, the biggest sugar mill and Hale- ing-room. At 9:00 o'clock the next iwa (house beautiful), one of the most morning a carriage will take you to Wai- delectable seaside hotels in all the tropics. alua Plantation, where you will have an The Oahu railway passes along the edge opportunity to visit an up-to-date sugar of now famous Pearl Harbor, a to-be- mill, returning to the hotel in time for greater fortification than Gibraltar. It luncheon, and at 2 :00 o'clock in the after- skirts the Waianae mountains, 4,000 feet noon you again leave by carriage for a high, and it is almost washed by the drive to Wahiawa pineapple plantations, breakers at their base. A ride from Ho- the largest in the world, where you may nolulu to Haleiwa by rail gives a 56-mile see this new island industry in all its flying panorama of gorgeous tropical sea stages. A train leaves Wahiawa, arriv- and mountain scenery that has no coun- ing in Honolulu at 5 :30 p. m. terpart in any portion of the globe. In place of this trip, Saturday and The fares on the Oahu railway aver- Sunday, are cheap week-end excur- age, first class, about two cents a mile, sions to the Haleiwa Hotel by rail, two and the week-end excursions even less. dollars for the return fare, from Satur- The following is one of the railway's two- day until Monday, or five dollars if the day $10.00 trips, all expenses included : hotel service is included. The rates at Step on either a King or Beretania the Haleiwa are $3.50 per day, or $21.00 street car, west bound, and it will take per week. There is no finer cuisine on you direct to the station of the Oahu the islands, and banquets may be ordered railway. A train leaving at 9:15 a. m. from Honolulu by phone. A fresh water will take you to Haleiwa Hotel, where stream flows by the door of the hotel, you arrive shortly before luncheon. This where it empties into the sea ; and a trail will be served on the broad lanais, after leads up to the summit of Kaala, the which you may spend the afternoon on highest mountain peak on the island.

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Dsi/ PA" PA • At. C°So,A 6° \cs. NIAP OF THE CITY OF 1,5 ttO NOLULU v-c"°\. THE MID-PACIFIC. 111 Electric Honolulu. Everyone uses electricity in Hono- Honolulu possesses one of the very lulu. The first city to instal the tele- best electric street railway systems in phone and the wireless is first, for its the world. Scenically, the Honolulu size, in the use of electric labor-saving trolley trip has no rival. For five cents, devices. The Hawaiian Electric Co. free transfers, you may ride directly, supplies the electric lighting and or by zigzag course if you prefer, from power current for the city. You may one end of the city to the other, from run your White sewing machine, your the sugar cane fields about Fort Shaf- electric fan, vacuum cleaner, coffee ter in the direction of Pearl Harbor, grinder, meat chopper, washing ma- to Waikiki Beach or Kaimuki and chine, silver polisher, ice cream freezer Diamond Head fortress, the Gibraltar or window cleaner by merely turning of the Pacific. The Honolulu Rapid on the current generated at the Ha- Transit system rails are laid before waiian Electric Power House. The seven valleys and mountain spires. Hawaiian Electric also maintains a From the baronial estate of Moanalua, handsome office building and show in the valley of the same name, and the rooms on Union Square, facing King polo grounds, the cars pass Kalihi street. Here you may study the cook- Valley and the famous Bishop Mu- ing stoves and entire electric kitchen seum, with its finest Polynesian col- and household outfit. You may lection in the world ; Nuuanu Valley, completely equip your kitchen, so that with a branch line to the Country Club, at the mere turning of a plug you may and a walk of but three miles to the boil, bake, roast or fry. You may do Pali, a precipice 1200 ft. high ; Pauoa your ironing anywhere by merely at- Valley, where native grass houses still taching a movable wire to the nearest stand ; Makiki Valley, from which electric plug on the wall of the room Tantalus, the mountain of homes, is or similarly supply power to a motor ascended, and fair Manoa Valley . that will turn your lathe, if you are mechanically inclined, or put a work- shop in operation. The Hawaiian Electric is agent for the Westing- house, and that means everything in electric equipment from the simplest kitchen to the biggest sugar mill in the Islands. For the housekeeper the Hawaiian Electric maintains a cold-storage warehouse, and manufac- tures ice, which it delivers at the home. By all means visit the show rooms of the Hawaiian Electric on King street, Union Square, and see the dis- I Flit ., play of useful and ornamental electric • irt - .01: 0 devices for the home, business office - and workshop, or phone 2390. c Nal(

HOTELS AND

Vida Villa BOARDING HOUSES Macdonald The Moana, the famous Alexander The rates are from $3.50 a day, and Young and the Royal Hawaiian Hotel $75.00 a month up. Mrs. Mary Johnson are all owned by the Alexander Young is the manager and the phone number interests and are conducted as modern is 2876. palatial tourist hotels. J. H. Hertsche Probably no city in the world is so is general manager of the three hotels. fortunate as Honolulu in the possession The rates at the Moana, American of palatial home hotels. The best are : plan, are $4.50 a day ; the rates at the VIDA VILLA, a number of cottages and Alexander Young are $2.00 a day up, a spacious house in a luxurious garden European plan, and the rates at the of palms; which is located at 1040 King tropical Royal Hawaiian Hotel are $1.50 street, where cars pass every five minutes a day, European plan. toward the business center, or toward Of the Alexander Young Hotel, Waikiki beach. Rates per day, $1.50; which extends for the length of Bishop by the month, $35.00 up. This home street, Van Norden's Magazine for hotel is within walking distance of "down August said : "Alexander Young, the town." Mrs. L. B. Evans is proprietor many-time millionaire of Honolulu, of this beautiful property. Phone 1146_ built as his monument a hotel that is THE MACDONALD is situated in the equal to any in appointment found in fashionable Punahou quarter, a stately London or New York, and with a roof colonial building at the end of a double garden more spacious than any on the row of royal palms. On Punahou street, continent." adjoining the Governor's residence, the It is in front of the beautiful Seaside Macdonald is convenient to either the Hotel at Waikiki that the malihini, or Hotel street or Wilder avenue car lines. newcomer, learns to ride the surfboard, The rates are : $2.00 per day, $14.00 per and on shore the resident at the Seaside week, $60.00 per month and up. Mrs. has a ten-acre cocoanut grove, long the Margaret Macdonald, proprietor. abode of royalty, in which to roam at THE DONNA, 1262 to 1286 Beretania will, or he may play tennis under the avenue, is Honolulu's newest apartment palms. He may occupy a cottage to hotel, and is conducted by Mrs. C. J. himself, or only a room. The rates are McCarthy. These several cottages afford moderate for such a hotel, from $2.50 a a splendid opportunity for families de- day up ; $60.00 a month ; American plan. siring exclusiveness. The houses are Just toward the city from Kapiolani built so as to divide into two or more park is Waikiki Inn, adjoining the sum- apartments, each with a hot and cold bath. mer residence of ex-Queen Liliuokalani The phone number of the Donna is 2480. and facing the "Queen's surf," where the THE NUUANU, one of the most attrac- most daring surf riders disport them- tive places, is at 1634 Nuuanu avenue, selves. The bathing is excellent in front third house above School street — a of the Inn. Meals are served at fifty cents family boarding house of more than each, board by the week is ten dollars. usual attraction, in a park of about The latest palatial private hotel to cater three acres, consisting of one main to the ultra refined is the Colonial on building and three cottages. Beautiful Emma street. This splendid mosquito- Waikahalulu waterfall and swimming proof mansion has its own out-door pool is three minutes' walk, a charming plunges, stables and garages, as well as place where lovers of water sports take bungalows for bachelors. The cuisine is a delightful plunge. Rates $2.00 a unsurpassed, and the lanais spacious. day, $12.00 a week. Telephone 1428.

The Gray The Nuuanu The Donna THE MID-PACIFIC. 113 Amusements Ye Liberty Theater is the newest and most commodious of the Honolulu play- houses. It is under independent manage- HAT MORE ment. This great brick and cement struc- thrilling sport ture is largely given over to vaudeville than hunting and motion pictures.. It makes a specialty sharks by day of importing the most world-talked of or perhaps shoot- feature films. While New York, Chi- ing flying fish cago, Boston and Philadelphia were yet from a launch— the only cities showing the $200,000 this is the great Odyssey production, this film was being amusement t h e shown at Ye Liberty, Honolulu, before Young Brothers any other Americans west of the Missis- make their spec- sippi were favored with a view of this ialty. If you want wonderful film that has set the world to engage their services for either of, talking. Ye Liberty sometimes imports these sports, phone 2551. the pure dramatic. It was this theater Most of the theatres of Honolulu are that brought to Honolulu the Boston under the control of the Honolulu Juveniles. Amusement Company of which J. H. The theater is so large and commodi- Magoon is Manager. ous that a banquet for several hundreds might be held on its main floor, while After dinner in Honolulu everyone still other hundreds could sit and watch turns out to attend the motion picture the show. There are exits on every theaters. There were a dozen of the:e side, and but one seating space, with in town, but all interests have consoli- cooling breezes that come gently in under dated, and now the best vaudeville talent the great rafters. Ye Liberty is one of and the best motion picture films are the evening sights of Honolulu. brought down from the Coast and the en- The main entrance to Ye Liberty is on tertainments are of the highest order. A Nuuanu street, between Hotel and Bere- very large sum of money has been spent, tania, convenient to all cars and at the practically reconstructing the theaters intersection of the up-to-date, modern that will remain open. New stages have and picturesque Oriental portions of the been built, new scenery painted, and ex- city. There is a large auto patronage cellent orchestras installed. Some of the and autos may be left in a circle around theaters are practically open-air, others Ye Liberty, so great is the space about almost enclosed. Honolulu's newest theater. The Bijou is one of the newest theaters and latest word in motion pic- ture shows in Honolulu. This spacious, practically outdoor theater, roofed only against the rain, occupies the site of the old skating rink on Hotel street. There is vaudeville, but the specialty of the house is clean travel films, films from every part of the world, endorsed by the education boards of the great American cities. The Savoy, the Empire and the New Orpheum are also under the same management. Every now and again Manager Ma- goon makes a personal visit to San Fran- cisco to select talent and feature films for his circuit of theaters. A DAY IN HONOLULU

Both inter-island and steamer com- the shoppers and business men wait for munication are maintained at a very high their cars. Usually they count on miss- standard by the wireless department of ing a car or two while they sit and chat the Mutual Telephone Company. at the open soda fountain that the Cham- RATES. bers Drug Company has placed before Between islands, 15c per word ; mini- their spacious open doorway on the cor- mum, $1.50. ner. At Chambers' drug store the be- Between steamers and islands, 20c per wildered tourist of the day from the big word ; minimum, $2.00. liners is set straight, introduced to Dole's Between steamers of the T. K. K. line bottled pineapple juice, the drink of the and islands : Minimum for one word, country, advised as to the sights of the $1.08; for each additional word up to a city, supplied with any perfumes, can- 10-word message add 8c per word ; for dies or drugs he may need during his 10 words and over the rate is 18c per stay, and made to feel at home. word straight. If you have films, or need supplies, Wireless office open from 7 a. m. to The Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak 5 :30 p. m. daily. headquarters, Fort St., develops and Sundays from 8 to 10 a. m. prints for tourists within a few hours. You have to look about in Modern All photo supplies, films, film packs, Honolulu for the real old Hawaii, but plates, cameras, island scenes, photo- you can find it. Even in the big graphs, etc., always in stock. Develop- Alexander Young Hotel a bit of old ing 4x5 plates or film packs, 70c a Hawaii lingers. Ernest Kaai has his dozen ; roll films, 60c a dozen ; print- Hawaiian quintette on the main floor, ing, 70c. Fresh films packed in her- and from Kaai you can secure, if you metically-sealed tins for use in the wish, for an evening party or luau tropics at no extra charge. (native feast) from one to fifty native The Post Office is located at the Hawaiian musicians, who play the corner of Merchant and Bethel streets, ukulele, as well as modern instruments, and nearby, on King street, is the and sing native Hawaiian songs—they great china and outfitting house of Ha- dance to vocal music in Hawaii. waii, that of Dimond & Co. Here you Kona Coffee means the real bean may secure real souvenir china of Ha- grown in Hawaii. One firm in Hawaii, waii, decorated with scenes on the is- the McChesney Coffee Co., on Mer- lands. There are souvenir spoons and chant street, makes a specialty of aging many interesting novelties designed to and perfecting the Hawaiian coffee tempt both tourist and resident. There bean. You may phone an order for a is also an entrance to Dimond's from sack of this real Old Kona Coffee to the alley that leads to the postoffice, and be sent to friends in the States, but it the tourist will do well to pass through is better to call in person and learn the establishment before he returns to his something of this Hawaiian product, ship. There are many travelling con- used in the States by coffee blenders veniences carried by Dimond. One of to lend flavor to the insipid South these is an aluminum canteen, that car- American coffee that floods the market. ries two quarts and fits snugly to the In front of the Chambers Drug Store, body. There are four interesting floors at the corner of Fort and King streets, at Dimond's with useful goods and the main street car lines intersect ; here choice art treasures on each. THE MID-PACIFIC. 115 The Tourist

is supplied, as well as printers' and bind- ers' supplies. There are musical instru- ments of every kind in stock, even to organs and pianos and the Angelus piano player. Either the resident or the tour- ist will find the Hawaiian News Co. stores of interest. The phone is 2294. The Cross Roads Book Shop adjoins the Hawaiian News Co., and is a contin- uation of the great fashionable bazaar. In the Cross Roads Book Store the liter- ature of America, Europe and the Orient is kept in stock. The novels of the day are received by every steamer. This is the bargain book store of city. Editions de luxe are displayed on the counters and shelves, as art' the lighter novels of Fort is the leading business street of simple binding. A phone message to Honolulu, and above is pictured the in- 2401 will bring a catalog with prices of terior of one of its leading stores, that the latest books. of H. F. Wichman & Co., Jewelers. The Arts and Crafts Store is just Seemingly the big store of H. F. Wich- what its name implies. This fascinating man & Co., Ltd., occupies more than place of interest is located in the new half the block on Fort street between building at the corner of Fort and Hotel King and Hotel streets. Wichman's is streets, the Pantheon block. one of the show places of the city. Here All the art works of foreign and na- you may profitably spend a day over the tive painters may be studied, or pur- great cases of silverware. If you have chased, here ; as well as sketches of jewels that need setting, are interested island scenes and photos and the choice in diamonds, or are looking for a wed- paintings made on the islands by well- ding present, you will visit Wichman's known artists. If you are an amateur For furniture of every description, photo artist, the Arts and Crafts will from steamer chairs to full household finish tip your work, color, mount and sets, the big double store of the Coyne frame your pictures in the most approved Furniture Company, Limited, in the and artistic manner. Young Building, may be visited. Here For crockery, the housewife in Hono- may be studied all the latest importa- lulu goes to Dimond's, on King street, tions in furniture from the Coast. This near Fort. This is the china and home is the largest establishment of its kind outfitting house of the city. in Honolulu, and has a factory as well And don't bother about your laun- as storehouse near by. dry ; the Sanitary Steam Laundry sends The Coyne furniture store is worth a man aboard for your clothes, and if a visit from the tourist as well as from you wish they will be returned to you the resident. You may outfit a palace within three hours, carefully laundried. in furniture, or you might hire chairs The rates for work are : Undershirts. and tables for a modern luau. 15c, nightshirts 20c. shirts 25c, white The very fashionable shops are in the coats 25c, collars 5c, if delivered to Alexander Young Building, and the larg- agent at 9 a. m. and returned to ship est of these is that of the Hawaiian News at 4 p. m. If wash is retained three Co. Here the ultra fashionable station- days, shirts 10c, white coats 15c, and ery of latest design is kept in stock. other rates in proportion. Phone 1973. Every kind of paper, wholesale or retail, Laundry, Kawaiahao street. 115 THE MID-PACIFIC. HAWAIIAN DEVELOPMENT Over on the big Island of Hawaii the Hawaiian Development Company has es- tablished lumber mills at Pahoa, in Puna, and here the magnificent Hawaiian ma- hogany, koa, and the equally hard ohia, is taken from the forest and sawn into suitable lengths. These hardwoods of Hawaii are splen- didly suited for interior work, and the koa furniture of Hawaii is as beautiful as any mahogany. The Hawaiian De- velopment Co. is creating the lumber in- dustry in Hawaii, and already the Ha- waiian mahogany from their mills is be- ing shipped around the world and the ohia is in demand on the mainland for use as everlasting railway ties. The headquarters of the Hawaiian Development Co. is in the Stangenwald building, Merchant street, Honolulu. On GAS IN HONOLULU. the Island of Oahu this company is de- Within the last two years the Hono- veloping the land across the pali. It owns lulu Gas Co. has been extending its the Koolau railroad, which is a continu- mains toward the most distant part of ation of the Oahu railway, and now that the city, so that the city is now brilliant- there is an auto bus service across the ly lighted. Downtown, this company has Pali, this railway is likely to come into installed the latest improved gas lighting prominence in connection with the round- globes at the street corners, so that at the-island auto-railway trip. night the business section is flooded with From Kahuku Point, where the Oahu light. railway ends, seventy-one miles from If your house is in Honolulu, natural- Honolulu, and the big wireless tower ly you will use gas for lighting and cook- flashes messages :o San Francisco, the ing. The Honolulu Gas Co., with ex- Koolau ( windward) railway begins. Its hibition rooms on Beretania and Alakea schedule makes connection with the streets, has men employed there to show Oahu railways trains, and passengers you the latest and best gas ranges and are carried on to Kahana, eleven miles stoves. The cars stop in front of the away. In time this railway will doubt- door. less climb the mountains and descend into Every housewife will want to know Honolulu. This is the land of the Ha- where the Gas Company has its exhibi- waiian Development Company, several tion rooms. The Honolulu Gas Co. has degrees cooler in summer than the Ho- a spacious show place at the corner of nolulu side of the island. Here are the Alakea and Beretania streets, where the famous Kaliuwaa falls, near Hauula, and Beretania, Emma and Alakea street cars splendid trials leading 2000 feet up into stop to exchange passengers. Here may the mountain range and a permanent be seen the latest gas ranges, devices for camp. There are regular lines of Chi- heating at trifling expense the water for nese and Japanese busses from this re- the bath tub, and a hundred other labor gion to Honolulu, over the Pali, twenty and money-saving devices that have odd miles, fare $1.00 ; and soon it is been invented to minimize the cost of gas promised an auto bus will be placed in and give comfort to the housekeeper. commission, when daily round-the-island Demonstraters are always present to ex auto rides may be made in either direc- plain the uses of the several inventions. tion at very low fares. The phone number is 2322. THE MID-PACIFIC. 117 SHOPPING IN HONOLULU The oldest established Dry Goods Next door is the big edition de lux House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situat- shoe store. You cannot escape the ed at the corner of Fort and Beretania Manufacturers' Shoe Co. Store if you Sts. For over a quarter of a century are on Fort street. It is the prominent this store has held an enviable reputa- feature of the busy, fashionable shop- tion for high-class merchandise. The ping block. Here every kind of shoe beautiful court dresses worn at the re- that is made for men, women and chil- ceptions and balls in the days of the dren is kept in stock, especially the Hawaiian Monarchy were made by this fancy kids and dancing shoes dear to firm. Then, as now, Sachs' was the womankind. rendezvous for ladies who desired the very best in Silks and Dress Fabrics, Tapestries, Draperies, Linens, Laces and Millinery. Their Millinery Estab- lishment will be found particularly in- teresting to tourists who wish light and pretty hats for tropical wear at rea- sonable prices. The following are a few of the lines for which "Sachs' has the exclusive agency ; they can only be obtained at "Sachs' " : "Knox" Ladies' Hats, "Memo" Corsets, "Onyx" Hosiery in Silk and Lisle, "Fowne's" Gloves, "Knox" Panama Hats, The I'Delineator," "Butterick" patterns, and the "Modart" front-lacing corset. The largest and most complete dry goods store in the city is that of B. F. Ehlers & Co., on Fort street. This firm makes a specialty of ladies' ap- The man's jeweler in Honolulu is parel and of bringing the latest Vieira, on Hotel street, near Bishop fashions to Hawaii. The year round and the Alexander Young Hotel. silk and woolen suits, skirts, waists and Vieira will supply you with a natty all the wearing apparel of women are scarf pin for $1.50 or he will make you rushed through at frequent intervals an exclusive design, Hawaiian if you from New York by Wells Fargo Ex- prefer, at prices ranging from two or press, being only twelve to fourteen three dollars up to a hundred or more days in transit, so that the fashions on if you are fond of diamonds. Vieira Fort street are only a few days behind will design watch charms or enamel those of Broadway. the Hawaiian coat-of-arms on your The fashionable grocery store of watch ; and best of all he will gladly Henry May & Co. occupies the entire suggest a piece of jewelry suitable for middle of this block. It takes time for your wife or other member of the fami- a newcomer to know and realize the ly. Mail address J. A. R. Vieira, 113 immense variety of groceries carried Hotel St., phone 2231. by this leading supply store of the city. The well-dressed man wishes his Henry May & Co. make a specialty of laundry carefully and tastefully done their fine roasted Kona (native) coffee, up by experienced laundry workers. and have established a coffee mill and In Honolulu the up-to-date laundry is steam roaster ; but all of the edible the Sanitary Steam Laundry, with products of Hawaii are displayed, to works covering almost an acre where say nothing of an exposition-like array citizen labor only launders the cloth- in the two big adjoining stores of ing from start to finish. It is worth canned goods from California and while visiting this interesting estab- every part of the United States and lishment at Kakaako, but if you have Europe. not time for this call up 1973. 8 -M. P. 118 THE MID-PACIFIC. HONOLULU'S BUSY CORNERS.

The corner of Fort and King is the the modern part of Culman's. The house of the Home Insurance Com- tapas, calabashes and native matting pany in Honolulu, and it has been a are all made by the native Polynesians success from the start. During the in their own primitive ways. If you first six months of its existence it wrote are interested in Polynesian curios, over $10,000 in premiums. The capital enameled jewelry and silverware, this stock of the Home Insurance Company is the place to spend an hour or so. is $100,000, divided among men of Hundreds of different Hawaiian pic- every walk of life in Honolulu. The ture post cards in colors are kept in directors are men who have made busi- racks, and you may pick out those you ness successes.. The following is the wish and mail them to friends without list of officers : leaving the store, or if you wish any- Cecil Brown, President thing in stock, or enamel work, Ha- J. A. McCandless, Vice-President waiian coins enameled and made into Norman Watkins, Secretary hatpins, bracelets or ornaments of any Zeno K. Myers, Treas. and Manager kind, leave your order and they will be A. W. Eames, Jr., Auditor mailed to you at any given address. If J. A. Kennedy, Director you have forgotten any desired curio Chu Gem, Director before sailing, use the phone at the A. S. Wilcox, Director (Kauai) wharf and give your order ; Culman's J. A. Scott, Director (Hawaii) phone number is 1483. R. A. Wadsworth, Director (Maui) The world over a man is known by The sun shines nearly every day in his neckwear and his boots. You don't Honolulu, and the temperature, nine have to leave the block to purchase months in the year, suggests one of the boots that mark the man. At the next many delicious concoctions of soda water corner (King and Bethel) the Regal obtainable at the store of Benson, Smith Shoe Company has its splendid Hawa- & Co., Ltd, at the corner of Hotel and iian exhibit and show rooms. If you Fort streets. Here, too, may be had are a round-the-world tourist, you have candy that is known on the Pacific Coast met or will meet the Regal Shoe Store as the "best in the world," and if you do in every large city on the main street, not buy Haas' chocolates and bonbons with the best display of American you do not buy the best. These bits of shoes in the town. The tourist always commerce are merely incidental to a su- feels entirely at home in a Regal store ; perior quality of drugs, Rexal remedies it reminds him of the "Regal" in his and what not, which the firm handles. All own town. Of course, the Regal fac- of the clerks are certificated, and any tories manufacture and send out to Ha- prescription you have may be filled as waii special shoes suited for the trop- carefully as if you were in Caswell's or ics, mountain climbing and touring, as Weythe's. Also, if you need any of the well as the standard makes for city numerous remedies for the cure or pre- wear and for the man returning to the vention of mal de mere you can be sup- States. You know the Regal prices, plied at the store of Benson, Smith & Co. popular the world over. In Hawaii Across Fort street, where the lei you will need for the beach white can- women line the sidewalk with their vas Oxfords ; for swell street wear with baskets of gorgeous flowers, Culman's white suiting, white buckskin Oxfords; curio store occupies the spacious cor- for mountain climbing and walks in ner. Here every conceivable Hawaiian the country, Regal No. 17 high-cut souvenir is displayed, and an elabor- boot. But it is best to drop in and look ate factory is kept going at full force over the stock, especially if you are go- all the time manufacturing Hawaiian ing on the Volcano trip, the Uniform coats-of-arms in enamel and creating Russian Blue D. S. heavy-weight shoe a hundred different finished products being the one for this or the Haleakala reminiscent of the Islands. This is trip. The Regal phone is No. 2043. THE MID-PACIFIC. 119 The HORSE and theAUTO in HAWAII

There are about one thousand auto- own on the island, and knows just what mobiles in Honolulu. It costs from feed island horses need. The Union eight to thirty dollars to transport an Feed Co. has the largest store of horse auto from one island to another, and feed of every kind of any concern in the on every one of the islands the auto Islands. Its buildings near the sea most suited for the country is being front cut an imposing figure in the eagerly sought after. The first suc- city. cessful automobile built in America Of course, you will need harness and was the Haynes ; this machine, after harness repairs. You cannot avoid the sixteen years, has become the most up- big saddle sign of the California Har- to-date, and its adaptibility to the re- ness Shop, diagonally across from the quirements of Hawaiian usage has in- Government building on King street. duced Joseph A. Gilman to bring the D. 0. Hamman & Son are the propri- machine to the islands. etors, and they have had a score of Around the corner of Alakea and years' experience making and repairing Beretania streets cluster the independ- harness, saddles, whips, robes, collars, ent auto workers. J. W. Kershner, the brushes and every line of harness vulcanizer, at 1177 Alakea, is the city's accessories, to say nothing of their spe- tire doctor. He imports tires, repairs cialty, automobile and carriage trim- tires, and manufactures rubber goods. mings. Having had eighteen years of experi- If you do keep a rig it will occasion- ence in vulcanizing tires, Dr. Kershner ally need repairs or refitting ; and on can prescribe for anything that is rub- King street, at the corner of South, is ber. Call him up, phone 2434, if you the carriage factory of the Wright- Hustace Co. In this factory carriages need his services. Honolulu is the ideal home of the and rigs of every kind are built from bicyclist, horseman and driver of a rig. start to finish, and years of experience If you wish a good horse brought down have taught this concern just what from the mainland or from New Zea- kind of rigs should be built for island land, drop into the Club Stables on use. It is well to let the Wright Co. Kukui street, phone 1109, and you will know just where you will use your rig learn all about the kind of horse you or wagon and let them do the rest. If you are in trouble of any kind over should have. And, after you have gotten your your carriage or auto, phone No. 1148, horse, you will wish to feed him. The Mr. Wright will make it all right at a Union Feed Co., with spreading ware- reasonable cost and in short order. Mr. houses, is to be found on the harbor Hustace is an experienced auto man, so front, at the corner of South and Allan that if the body of your auto needs re- streets. If you have not time to call pairs he will give personal supervision phone No. 1868. Fred W. Macfarlane, to the work. The establishment is the who is president, has a ranch of his largest of its kind in Honolulu. 120 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Islands as "The Palm." It is located HOME BUILDING on Hotel street near Fort, but is best known to the housewife by its phone number, which is 2011. The rolls and bread of the city are baked at The Palm, and usually delivered about daylight from the wagons of the bakery. Every housewife will want to know where the Gas Company has its exhibi- tion rooms. The Honolulu Gas Co. has a spacious show place at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets, where the Beretania, Emma and Alakea street cars stop to exchange passengers. Here may be seen the latest gas ranges, de- If you contemplate building a home, see the architect and then the Hustace- vices for heating at trifling expense the Peck Co. for your draying and crushed water for the bath tub, and a hundred rock material. other labor and money-saving devices that have been invented to minimize Draying in Honolulu is an important the cost of gas and give comfort to the business, and Hustace-Peck & Co., housekeeper. Demonstraters are al- Ltd., are the pioneers in this line, and ways present to explain the uses of the keep drays of every size, sort and de- several inventions. The phone number scription for the use of those who re- is 2322. quire them. They also conduct a rock No home is complete in Honolulu crusher, and supply crushed rock. without a ukulele, a piano and a Vic Their office is at 63 Queen street, and for talking machine. The Bergstrom the 'phone number is 2295. Music Co., with its big store on Fort If you wish a more expensive home, street, will provide you with these—a with concrete finishings and every up- Chickering, a Weber, a Kroeger for to-date improvement dear to the heart your mansion, or a tiny upright Bou- of the man of wealth, J. H. Craig, who doir for your cottage; and if you are designed and built the palatial home of a transient it will rent you a piano. Mr. Howard, has had the experience The Bergstrom Music Co., phone 2321, (twenty years of it in Honolulu) that books your theater tickets for the you may be looking for. He will show Royal Hawaiian Opera House. you palatial buildings he has designed In building your house, and after, and erected in the city, and will pre- you will need the expressman. The pare elaborate plans in accord with easiest way is to phone orders to 1281. your desires. It will pay you, if you This is the City Transfer Co., Jas. H. are going in for a substantial home, to Love, Manager, King St., near fort. call up 2230, and take a drive around town with Mr. Craig to let him point out the advantages of building to the climate. If you are going in for raising your own poultry, you cannot do better than to phone to the Club Stables and order the kind of fancy breed you wish to raise from. The Club Stables manage- ment makes a specialty of importing fine breeds of poultry, and will be glad to tell you all about it. Phone No. 1109. There is one excellent popular bak- -ry in Honolulu, known throughout the

THE MID-PACIFIC. 121 Your Health in Honolulu. If you imagine you are an in- valid, you will demand delicacies in Honolulu. Mr. Thomas Kelly has established a factory for the purpose of satisfying this crav- ing. He puts up guava jellies in natural yellows and reds, from the two fruits, so clear that you can almost read through the glass tumblers of jelly.

No one who travels in Hawaii The most healthful and inspiring should ever abstain from having in drink in Honolulu is the purely Hawa- his room, at home, in a sanatorium, or iian drink—Pinectar. at his hotel the aerated waters of It took Byron 0. Clark and the pine- Hawaii. The Rycroft Brothers, phone apple people many years to invent and 2270, have built an extensive concrete perfect "Pinectar." The product has building on Sheridan street, where they revolutionized the pineapple industry manufacture from distilled waters the of Hawaii, as the juice, now instead of aerated waters that bear their name, or the fruit, becomes the valuable product. that of the Fountain Soda Works. The distributing of this wonderful Rycroft is the best, and a phone call drink of the Islands has been taken will bring you any kind of soda you over by the Pinectar Sales Co., Ltd., of wish. Honolulu. Whether or not you visit Hawaii, you should become acquainted Good health is preserved by secur- with its drink—Pinectar. ing life a plenty of the best of every- "Pinectar" is not a cannery by- thing. The American Brokerage Co. product but is made from the whole (T. Lansing, Manager, 935 King St.), fruit, picked ripe in the sunny fields, next the big market, was organized as and from the very best grade of refined an aid for everyone to this end. There Hawaiian cane sugar, so that it is hard is no kitchen utensil, in sanitary enam- to perceive how the quality of such a el, that this company will not supply combination could be improved. In- at lowest prices; there is no grocery deed, there is no drink of its kind on article of merit that has passed the the market today that brings out the pure food inspection that is not kept in flavor of a luscious ripe pineapple so stock, and all of the Colgate wares, perfectly as Pinectar. While in the na- soaps, perfumes, etc., are sold at San ture of a soft drink, it retains all the Francisco prices. valuable digestive properties which has People don't usually die in Honolulu, made pineapple syrup a standby of the but when they do they phone in ad- medical profession for ages. As an aid vance to Henry H. Williams, 1146 to improper digestion, Pinectar is par- Fort street, phone number 1408, and ticularly effective. Mixed with White he arranges the after details. If you Rock or Apollinaris, or any of the well- are a tourist and wish to be interred known carbonated waters, it forms a in your own plot on the mainland, delightful substitute for light table Williams will embalm you ; or he will wines or punch—and is a refreshing arrange all details for interment in beverage after sea sickness. A bottle Honolulu. Don't leave the Paradise of Pinectar and a siphon of plain soda of the Pacific for any other, but if you in your room, and you have the ingre- must, let your friends talk it over with dients for a most acceptable drink to Williams. offer callers. 122 THE MID-PACIFIC. BUILDING IN THE CITY OF HONOLULU

THE BUILDINGS AT FORT SHAFTER. When one intends to build, he will Brick Company, Limited, is turning it naturally seek architects and contrac- into a cheap and durable building ma- tors of known skill and experience to terial. undertake the work for him. The powdered lava will probably in E. J. Lord, foremost successful con- time be moulded and pressed into vari- tractor in the Islands, and J. L. Young, colored columns and cornices. Probably late advisory engineer and architect of Hawaii will, with her lava products, the quartermaster department, U. S. create an architecture beautiful beyond Army, have recently organized the description and as unique as it is beau- Lord-Young Engineering Co., Ltd., tiful, all her own. with offices in the Campbell Block, Lewers & Cooke, on King street, op- Fort and Merchant streets, to conduct posite the Young Building, maintain a general engineering and contracting the largest establishment of the kind business. Phone 2610. in Hawaii. This firm not only occu- Mr. Lord's construction work on pies the entire three floors of what is some of the largest government con- architecturally the finest business tracts in the Islands is too well known building in Honolulu, but it also main- to dwell on. Mr. Young spent many. tains a two-story concrete office build- years in the government service as ing on its lumber yard property, and engineer and architect. He designed spacious stable buildings. It is the numerous public buildings in the United boast of Lewers & Cooke that they States and Cuba, and in Hawaii designed supply all materials required for the and supervised the construction of Forts erection of buildings from the founda- Shafter and Ruger. tion until ready for the furniture. This Honolulu is entering a new era of firm sends its own four-masted schoon- building. The Honolulu Lava Brick er to the Coast for cargoes of red- Company, Limited, is bringing this wood, oak, ash, hickory, sugar pine and about. This concern has erected works all kinds of woods. It also imports in Kaimuki that reduce the abundant hardware of every description, and a lava to fine powder and then moulds it full and complete line of Fuller's house into bricks more durable paints, to say noth- than any from the main- ing of the latest fa- land. To supply the de- shions in stains and mand for red clay bricks wall papers, oil and it is also undertaking to mattings. If you turn Hawaiian clay into need tanks, lime, ce- bricks, and by a chemical ment, brick, terra process the clay of Ha- cotta or any one of waii is made to hold to- the thousand and gether in bricks as well one requirements in house building, call as any that are made up No. 1261, and rest elsewhere. The lava in assured that Lewers Hawaii is ever abundant, & Cooke will see to and the Honolulu Lava all matters. THE MID-PACIFIC. 123 The Business Man in Hawaii. While sugar is king of all business in well to visit the show rooms. Phone the Territory of Hawaii, the progress of number 2111. development in the Islands is rapidly The business man in Hawaii outfits bringing to the front other industries. his office from the American-Hawaiian The Island Investment Co., Ltd., whose Paper and Supply Co. The wholesale fine offices are on the first floor of the and retail headquarters are at the cor- Stangenwald Building, next the Bank of ner of Fort and Queen streets. If there Hawaii, is taking a leading part in this is anything from paper bags to blank work, having organized the Island Elec- books, paper of any quality from a tric Company, Ltd., to supply the Island pound to a ton, the American-Hawaiian of Maui with electricity and erected a Paper and Supply Company is out for $50,000 plant at Wailuku. It has also the contract. It represents the fore- organized a number of independent com- most paper mills in America, and any- panies, including the Honolulu Motor thing not in stock it imports on order. Supply Co, Ltd., and the Territorial In- One of the oldest and most reliable vestment Co., Ltd. business houses of Honolulu is that of The Island Investment Company's Allen & Robinson on Queen street, stock and bond department guarantees phone 2105. This firm for generations a "square deal" in all transactions in the has supplied the people of Honolulu various sugar and industrial stocks list- and those on the other islands with ed on the exchange, as well as in a num- their building materials and paints. ber of fine unlisted, dividend-paying Their office is on Queen street, near the stocks and high-grade bonds. Inter-Island S. S. Building, and their Its real estate department has homes lumber yards extend right back to the (from a cozy cottage to a magnificent harbor front, where every kind of hard mansion), lots and acreage to show and soft wood grown on the coast is those interested in any special section of landed by the schooners that ply to the city, from Diamond Head to Nuuanu Puget Sound. and Manoa. Its insurance department You have but to step out of the office (fire, life and accident) represents a of the Honolulu Construction and number of the strongest and best com- Draying Co. to consult with Allen & panies of New York in their respective Robinson, either in their office or in lines. the extensive lumber yard, where you The Office Supply Co. on Fort street may select at will the seasoned lumber is the house that deals in office furni- you need. In the office you will be ture. Here is maintained a complete able to select your house paints, and typewriter repair department, and the good advice will be given you as to the Company is agent for the Remington kinds best suited for the climate. If typewriter, as well as for the Globe- you can't call, phone 2105, and it will Wernecker filing and book cases. The do as well, for the firm understands the phone number of the Office Supply Co. needs of the man who is building or is 1143. A complete line of office sta- painting his house. tionery is carried, and a phone message is all that is needed to get what you need in your office. If you locate in Honolulu, both for home and office, you will need furni- ture. J. Hopp & Co., Ltd., are fully competent to outfit you. Their great spacious store is on King street, oppo- site the Alexander Young Building. Here you will find every kind of fur- L niture that you would expect to see in a big San Francisco furniture em- porium. This company is opening up a new line of office furniture, and it will be 124 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Roycroftes, where you can see the work of the leading artists of the BUILDING Islands, small views, native types and surfriders and other objects of art. Besides being the leading art shop, they are agents for the Ansco Cameras and Cyko Paper, with a developing and printing department that cannot be ex- celled. Probably no pretentious house built in Honolulu during the last half cen- tury has been completed without the assistance of E. 0. Hall & Son, Fort and King streets, phone No. 1854. You Are you thinking of building? might completely furnish your house Harry L. Kerr, in the McCandless from top to bottom at Hall & Son's. Building, is the dean of the Honolulu There is a floor given over to crockery architects. He has designed and su- and kitchen ware of every kind and de- perintended the construction of houses scription. In fact, lumber provided, innumerable in the city, to say nothing you might order material to build and of churches, business blocks, the Yoko- equip your house from Hall & Son's. hama Specie Bank, and the big con- There is a hardware basement and a crete building of the Hawaiian Fertili- ground-floor from which the gardener zer Co., the largest of its kind this side or small farmer might secure his entire of the Rockies. outfit. If you are thinking of painting The construction of this building your house within or without, it is Hall was performed by the Pacific Engi- & Son who handle the Sherwin-Willi- neering Co., Ltd. This firm of design- ams paints. If you need a gas engine, ing and constructing engineers has its motorcycle or an ordinary pedal bike, offices in the Kapiolani Building, Ala- Hall & Son have them in stock. If kea and King streets. The Pacific En- you are interested in sporting goods, gineering Co. are engineers and con- they are the agents for Spaldings' structors of buildings of every kind, goods. In fact, E. 0. Hall & Son is the from the smallest private residence to big retail department store of the Ter- the large and imposing business ritory of Hawaii, where you may pur- blocks. Being composed of some of chase or order any and everything, the most prominent men in the Islands from a pin to a locomotive. it is not surprising that it has secured If your house is in Honolulu, natu- large and important contracts, includ- rally you will use gas for lighting and ing the construction of the new Y. M. cooking. The Honolulu Gas Co., with C. A. exhibition rooms on Beretania and J. Emmeluth & Co., on King and Alakea streets, has men employed there Bishop streets, is the plumbing supply to show you the latest and best gas store of Honolulu. In securing every ranges and stoves. The cars stop in kind of plumbing it is necessary to con- front of the door. sult this firm as well as for the tinning After you have built your house, of the roof. After the house is built, you will naturally insure it for all it it is J. Emmeluth & Co. who will sup- is worth—but, if you really do not wish ply the gas ranges and stoves needed it to be even damaged by fire you will for the kitchen. Either as plumbers keep a Badger Fire Extinguisher at or as suppliers of any kind of plumbing hand. These chemical extinguishers material needed in house construction should by law be a part of the equip- it is well to call, or phone 3067, J. Em- ment of each and every house and meluth & Co. home, especially in the outlying dis- Your home or office needs pictures tricts. The Badger has saved many and picturing. "Gurrey's" on King homes in Honolulu. Phone J. A. Gil- street is the home of the Hawaiian man at 828 Fort street. THE MID-PACIFIC. 125

BUSINESS BUILDINGS. The business man does not have to If you have your design and are leave his district in Honolulu to give ready for a frame building, put up by an order for a house or business block, the importers of lumber, it is best to from start to finish. He can drop into drop into the lumber yards of the Ho- the big, spacious hall and office of nolulu Planing Mill. Here, at 655 the Honolulu Construction and Dray- Fort street, near the waterfront, the ing Company at 65 Queen, phone 2281. Lucas Bros., contractors and builders, This is the concern that sells you your conduct their planing mill and receive coal, hauls it to you, supplies you with their lumber from the Coast. You drays and teams for any work, or un- can give an order for a house, or you dertakes to lay your sewers or build may merely select your mouldings, your roads. brackets, window frames, sashes, doors and other lumber. The phone is 1510. The Honolulu Construction and The business man needs a safe, and Draying Company combines the prep- the agency for the Alpine Safe and aration of rock for any and all pur- Lock Co. is in the hands of H. E. poses with the business of moving Hendrick, Merchant and Alakea Sts. heavy and light freight to and from the These are the famous Cincinnati safes, wharves in Honolulu. The quarries and may be had at prices from forty of the company are located at Moiliili, dollars up to as many hundred dollars. adjoining the immense crusher plant by Call and learn about office safes. Mr. which it reduces rock to any dimension Hendrick is also laying it_ a line of for use in concrete work. Its plant is office supplies, and it is well to keep the largest in the Territory. The office in touch. of the company is in the Robinson There are many things the business building, Queen street. man will wish on commission. The If you are building, remember that California Feed Co., Ltd., Queen St., in Hawaii you need the aid of the near Nuuanu, is a commission mer- Peerless Preserving Paint Co., Ltd., chant firm and an importer and dealer also at 65 Queen street, that you must in hay and grain ; phone 1121. If you use the best preservative paint or let are keeping .horses in your line of busi- your roof rot out in a year or so. This ness, this concern deals in every kind firm guarantees their work for three of feed, or if you are starting a ranch, years, and they periodically inspect large or small, they will contract to same. It is also the exclusive handler see that your stock is well fed. of the famous felt, pitch and gravel If you are thinking of investing in roofing. A postal or telephone call a boat, or of getting rid of one, there (2281) will be responded to by a fore- is the Miller Salvage Co., Ltd., on man, who will give full particulars and Merchant St., near Alakea. If there a careful estimate. is anything from the wreckage of a If you need a painter for work of vessel that you can use, this company any kind, there is Sharp, the sign- has it. There is little about shipping painter. You must have interior dec- that Captain Miller or his company orations and signs of some sort, and dont know, and as he sometimes dis- Sharp, on Hotel street, opposite the patches a schooner to the Coast, it is Alexander Young Hotel, can put you well to keep in touch with him if you right. Talk with him, or phone 1697. have anything to send to the mainland. 126 THE MID-PACIFIC. THE SRI OF ME [MOM AMU The several banks of Honolulu, some 603.23. The capital surplus and undi- of them more than half a century in vided profits amounted to $1,121,372, business, have never felt the financial or more than the total of any other gales that have passed over the main- land. bank in the Hawaiian Islands. This bank is a monument to the financial In Honolulu there is no "booming." acumen of the late C. M. Cooke; his The saying is, "The banks won't stand son, C. H. Cooke, is its president. The for it," and they don't. That, perhaps, Bank of Hawaii has spacious quarters is why Honolulu is the most prosper- on the main business corner of Hono- ous city of its size in the world. lulu, Merchant and Fort streets. This To quote briefly from the San Fran- bank also conducts a savings depart- cisco Chronicle of recent date—speak- ment. ing of the progressive banks of Ha- The First National Bank stands at waii—taking the Banks of Honolulu in the corner of Fort and King streets, the order of their ages : the heart of the business district. This The Banking House of Bishop & Co. bank is the depository in Hawaii of the was established August 17, 1858, and has U. S. Government, and began business occupied its premises on the corner of October 1, 1900; its business has in- Merchant and Kaahumanu streets since creased by leaps and bounds, it having the year 1877. The operations of this paid over a quarter of a million in divi- Bank began with the encouragement of dends on the capital stock of $500,000. the whaling business, then the leading The deposits March 29, 1910, were industry of the Islands, and the institu- $1,301,638.76; surplus, $135,000. Total tion has ever since been closely identified assets, $2,332,772.37. This progressive with the industrial and commercial bank will soon remove to a new build- progress of the Islands. The partners ing of its own. The officers are : Cecil in the firm consist of Mr. S. M. Damon Brown, President; M. P. Robinson, Vice-President ; L. Tenney Peck, and Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley. On Cashier. June 30, 1911, the deposits with this Bank amounted to $4,898,646.86. Bishop "The Yokohama Specie Bank, a branch of the famous Japanese institu- & Co. are correspondents for the Amer- tion, with a subscribed capital of $24,- ican Express Company and Thos. Cook 000,000 and a paid-up capital of $15,- & Son. In its fifty-three years business 000,000, has just moved into its mag- the Bank has established connections nificent new building at the corner of with other banking establishments all Merchant and Bethel streets, opposite over the world, and its Domestic and the postoffice and Bishop & Co. The Foreign Letters of Credit are found by officers of the Yokohama Specie Bank, clients to be highly satisfactory. Cable Mr. Y. Akai, Manager; T. Suto and S. address : " Snornad." Takagi, pro-managers ; Y. Murakami, "The Bank of Hawaii. Ltd.. was in- Accountant. A visit to this institution corporated December 27, 1897. The is well worth while. It is the most up- start was made with a cash capital of to date fireproof building in Hawaii, the $300,000, increased to $600,000; at the interior being finished in bronze marble. end of the first quarter, March, 1898, Branches of the Yokohama Specie the deposits totalled $196,000. On De- Bank are found everywhere through- cember 31, 1909, the total was $3,721,- out the world." 642.07. The loans in March, 1898, Honolulu has reason to be proud of $323,026; in December, 1909, $2,690,- her banks. THE MID-PACIFIC. 127 110N1111 1RUS1 COMPRNIES

Honolulu was one of the first cities to issued and paid, occupies the spacious adopt the idea of the trust company, quarters at the corner of Fort and and the Hawaiian Trust Co., organized Merchant streets. Here the wireless in 1898, was the first to be established on system for Hawaii was born, and housed the islands ; J. R. Galt is its present head. until very recently. There are spacious The Henry Waterhouse Co., Ltd., was vaults for valuable papers, insurance de- born January 1st, 1903, succeeding partment, real estate feature, and every Henry Waterhouse, who began business department common to the up-to-date in 1852 ; Robert Shingle has been Presi• trust company. The managers were for dent of the Trust Co. from its incep- years associated with Henry Water- tion. The Trent Trust Co. was organ- house, before the firm that had stood for ized in June, 1907, by Richard H. Trent, half a century was incorporated as a formerly of the Waterhouse Trust Co., trust company. The telephone number and Treasurer (thrice reelected) of is 1208. The Trent Trust Co. has grown, and Honolulu. grown, since its inception in 1907, then In Hawaii the trust companies are not with a capitalization of $50,000, now permitted to do a banking business. $83,000, fully paid up. With the begin- They are controlled by a trust law. First ning of its third year the assets had in- they act as attorney in fact, draw up creased to $176,912.09. The size of the wills, administer estates, act as guar- office space, on Fort street, between King dians, collect rents, pay taxes as trustees, and Merchant, has been doubled, large insure their clients from loss by fire, in- vaults built in, and a series of agency sure the life of the head of a household, rooms for insurance business of every buy and sell—through their agent on the kind. The Trent Trust Co. is the par- Stock Exchange—stocks and bonds for ent of the Mutual Building and Loan their clients, but may not purchase or Association of Honolulu, Ltd., a separate sell for their own account. In fact, the body with a capital of $75,000. The trust company in Hawaii acts as agent or Trent Trust Co. does a large house rental business manager for those who need agency business and is, as are all the such service. Many old residents when trust companies in Honolulu, a member touring abroad leave a full power of at- of the Stock and Bond Exchange. The torney with one of the trust companies telephone number is 2301. to conduct their business. Such in brief is the story of the trust The Hawaiian Trust Co., for instance, companies doing business in Honolulu. in July, 1910, had charge of $7,500,000 If any one of these can be of service to worth of property. This company has you—well, they are there for that pur- for a decade or more administered the pose. Brewer estate, which owns a large sec- You will do well to drop in and get tion of the business heart of Honolulu. first-hand information from one of the The Hawaiian Trust Co. insures the Trust Companies. buildings, collects the rents, makes re- pairs, pays taxes and turns over to the heirs their just returns. This company, organized by ex-Governor of Hawaii, George R. Carter, occupies a handsome building on Fort street between King and Merchant streets. The telephone number is 1255. The Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., a $200,000 incorporation, with $100,000 128 THE MID-PACIFIC. INDUSTRIAL HONOLULU.

Honolulu will in time become a manu- est pineapples, the best coffee, and the facturing center. Already the pineapple richest tobacco in the world are grown industry has begun to bring this about. in the Hawaiian Islands, and Kona is the Another of the pineapple pioneers, nursery of the Islands. Visit Kona. W. B. Thomas, a California journalist Honolulu is growing, and Mr. P. M. who came to Hawaii for his health, has Pond is about the busiest contractor in done much to make the land of his adop- the Islands. His up-to-date equipment tion known from one end of America to for rapid and thorough plantation con- the other. The Thomas Pineapple Co. struction work and his experienced en- plantation, consisting of 600 acres, is lo- gineers who plan and supervise the cated at Wahiawa, twenty miles from building of reservoirs and walls, laying Honolulu, in the most favored pineapple railroad tracks, driving wells and all section of the world, and where 80 per other plantation construction work has cent. of all Hawaiian pineapples are led, to his securing many contracts that grown. This company's cannery is equip- have been most satisfactorily executed. ped with all the most improved machin- Mr. Pond's telephone is No. 2890, ery, and the planting, cultivation and and he is always willing to submit esti- canning of their crop receive personal mates of cost of work and offer sugges- supervision from start to finish. tions for proper approaches, etc. The best butter that comes to Hono- The Pablo Land Company is an or- lulu is the Australian butter that is ganization composed of several gentle- brought fresh each month by the Metro- men who own upper Pablo Valley and politan Meat Market, on King street. the scenic portion of Pablo Hill above This butter is remarkable both for its Wilhelmina Rise. This is the portion of perfect flavor and for keeping qualities. Honolulu that overlooks Kaimuki, and A phone message to 1814 will insure de- from Upper Palolo Hill half of Oahu livery any morning of the week. Heil- Island may be seen. Splendid roads have bron and Louis are the proprietors of recently been constructed. Maps of the Metropolitan, which is the large cen- these may be seen at the Pablo Land Co. tral market of Honolulu, and they guar- office in the McCandless Building. antee their Australian butter. The Palm Restaurant has now moved The milk of Honolulu is provided by into its new quarters on Hotel street, a the Honolulu Dairymen's Association, splendid building having been erected for Phone 1572. The several milk dealers the Palm Restaurant. A visit should be send their milk to the central dairy, made to the new building and the new where it is sterilized by electricity until restaurant. no germs of any kind exist. The milk is At the Palm every soft drink is served. then chilled and sent out, absolutely pure, Honolulu being a soft-drink town, and to the customers. There are few places The Consolidated Soda Water Works in the world where a more careful super- Co., Ltd„ 601 Fort street, are the largest vision of cattle is enforced, with the re- in the Territory and well worth a visit sult that the milk supply is of a far at lunch time. Aerated waters cost but higher standard than on the mainland. little in Hawaii, from 35 cents a dozen A visit to the big dairy of the Honolulu bottles up. The Consolidated is agent Dairymen's Association on Sheridan for Hires Root Beer and puts up a Kola street would be of interest. Mint aerated water that is delicious, be- The finest tobacco grows in Kona on sides a score of other flavors. Phone the Island of Hawaii. There is none 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at The finer in the world, and it is interesting to Palm. note that on the most historical spot in On King street is the remodeled Union all Hawaii, where Captain Cook was Grill. Here you may have a lunch at killed, the Kona Tobacco Co., Ltd., is any price and all the delicacies of the now growing the weed that first made season, and if you have ladies in your North America really interesting to the party, there is a ladies' restaurant up- world. The finest sugar cane, the sweet- stairs. THE MID-PACIFIC. 129

The port of Kahului is the begin- ning of Maui, so far as the tourist is concerned. Here he lands from the WAI LU KU steamer and begins his exploration. The Kahului railway runs frequent trains to Wailuku and Iao Valley, to THE Paia, from whence carriage and horse- back ascent of Haleakala is begun, and CITY to 'Puunene, the largest sugar mill in the world. There is a merchandise de- partment of the Kahului Railroad Co., OF for home-making. Here you may out- fit your house from top to bottom and MAUI secure paint to burnish it up within and without. The merchandise de- partment of the Kahului Railroad Co. The Island of Maui is called the can fit up your bathroom in modern Valley Isle of Hawaii. And it is. style, completely supply your kitchen, Wailuku is a picturesque little town put in a private acetylene plant, and situated at the mouth of the famous fit up your diningroom, bedrooms and Iao Valley, at an elevation of about parlor. If you are going to take or 500 feet above sea level. build a house on the Island of Maui, The Maui Hotel at Wailuku is a this merchandise department can help. modern family and tourist hotel. It commands a marine view, with the The Puunene Store is the retail estab- Western Maui mountains as a beauti- lishment of the Hawaiian Commercial & ful background. The hotel is equip- Sugar Co. in Kahului. It is the great ped with large and well ventilated bed- large building in the long row of stores rooms, spacious diningrooms, and the and houses that have recently been erect- —"Kapaniwai"—is nestled in the very ed in Kahului. The Puunene Store is heart of the mountains, which at this more like a big department store in a point rise towering in the air some fair sized city. Meet me at the store on three or four thousand feet. Almost Maui means meet me in the big Puunene like an alpine home is this charming emporium. Everyone from the picnicker to the housekeeper finds his way to this summer resort with its green lawns and blooming gardens of roses, violets spacious building during the day. and flowers. Here one seeking rest is The Kahului Store, John J. Walsh, lulled to sleep by the sound of water- manager, is the headquarters on Maui falls and the rush of the Iao stream. for tires and auto supplies of all kinds. Not only this but it is the wholesale supplier on Maui of every kind of plantation supplies, having taken over part of the business of the merchandise department of the Kahului Railway. You might start and equip a ranch or con- duct a small farm with no other necessities than those secured from this big emporium. It is an institution with retail branch stores every- where on the Island of Maui. 130 THE MID-PACIFIC. HILO Hawaii's Second City

Hilo is the second city of Hawaii and, when the Panama Canal is completed it may take first place. Hilo is lit by electric power generated The center of attraction to the tourist from waterfalls within the city. The is the Hilo Drug Store, on the main cor- Hilo Electric Light Co. can therefore ner of the town opposite the railway sta- supply light and power at a minimum tion. Here the photo fiend can secure cost, and this is a consideration that his supply of films and have them devel- means much to Hilo. The Hilo Electric oped; here also he will be dazzled with the display of many colored souvenir Light Co. keeps in stock a full supply of cards. The resident knows the Hilo Tungsten lamps and other money-saving devices to improve the lighting service. Drug Store as the standard place of its kind on the Big Island. From Hilo there is telephone service around the island, the Hilo and Hawaii There is one big department store in Telephone and Telegraph Co. are having Hilo. The man who intends to locate in free interchange with the telephone com- Hilo and expand with the city will neces- panies throughout the big island. From sarily consult with E. N. Holmes of the any part of the island messages may be big department store. If he is a man he phoned to be transmitted by wireless to will outfit himself here, while the woman the other islands. The cost of a phone does her shopping for the home with this in the house in Hilo is small and the con- oldest and best of department stores on venience inconceivable. the big island. It is interesting to the There are concerns in town whose tourist also to visit this typical emporium sole _business it is to help Hilo grow. of the Island of Hawaii. The Hilo Mercantile Co., Ltd., and the The marketing in Hilo is done at the Enterprise Planing Mill, are two of Hilo Market Co., although many of the these under one management. You customers call up phone 30 and give may order your house, from lumber to their orders for island and mainland tur- furnishings, from these two concerns, keys, chickens, beef, mutton, pork, ham, including plumbing and hardware. The bacon, butter, and all the fresh fruits and big store of the Hilo Mercantile Co., vegetables of the season. The celery is Ltd., on Front street, is filled with brought from the volcano, 30 miles away, every kind of general merchandise, and fresh every day. The Hilo Market, near is well worth a visit, whether you are the railway station, is one of the Hilo tourist or resident. places worth visiting. The house completed, G. W. Locking- Hilo is growing, and the energy of the ton, also in Front street, furnishes it from young man is in evidence. Charles H. top to bottom. Lockington's is the most Will, the foremost contractor and con- completely equipped furniture house in crete constructor in Hilo, is a young man the Territory of Hawaii. He provides walking on to success in his business. If for births, marriages, deaths ; he fur- you are wisely thinking of establishing nishes palatial mansions or humble yourelf in Hawaii's chief city, build, and dwellings ; it is all one to Lockington. He a written request to P. 0. Box 213 will has furnished the homes of Hilo for a bring a reply from the contractor who quarter of a century and knows the needs can best furnish estimates of cost. of the country. THE MID-PACIFIC. 131

Oahu College, Hawaii's premier edu- In the great buildings and spacious cational institution, is a private, endow- grounds across King street the Hawaiian ed, undenominational school, governed girls are educated, taught manual arts by a Board of Trustees. and domestic science. The Punahou School, founded in 1841 Music is not neglected in Hawaii. as a school for the missionaries' children Ernest Kaai has his Hawaiian Conserva- and later chartered as Oahu College, has tory in the Alexander Young building, continued ever since as a school chiefly and here he teaches the use of the native for white children. With more than six ukulele. It is the Kaai Glee Club that hundred and thirty students, forty-five provides all of the Social Music for teachers, and departments which include Honolulu. In Hawaii people dance to the eight grades in the Punahou Prepar- vocal as well as to instrumental music atory School, the college preparatory, and all of Kaai's musicians are excellent general and commercial courses in the singers, who sing in both English and Academic Department, courses in Music in Hawaiian. From Kaai's Glee Club and Art, and some advanced college the youth of Hawaii learn the songs of work, it performs a notable educational the people. Ernest Kaai can supply a service for Hawaii. In its traditions, quartette for a small dance or as many the character of its work and in the ex- as fifty musicians for a big public affair. tent of its influence, the school is amply It is worth while visiting the studio justifying its $550,000.00 plant and its and studying the native Hawaiian musi- $450,000.00 endowment. cal instruments. Educationally Hawaii takes care, and Leilehua, the great Military Camp of good care, of her own children, de- Hawaii, is reached in an hour's ride by scendants of the original people of the rail or auto from Honolulu, and here islands. By the bequest of Princess Chang Chau has established a restaurant, Bernice Pauahi Bishop there have been department store and a hotel where erected the splendid buildings of the trampers may rest at night to proceed Kamehameha Schools on King street, in the morning to make the easy ascent surrounding the Bishop Museum. Here to Kaala, the highest mountain peak of the Hawaiian boys are educated and Oahu. At Leilehua you will make your trained in manual arts and in farming. headquarters at Chang Chau's. 1 132 THE MID-PACIFIC.

The business life of Honolulu is ex- Downtown business is also expand- panding in every direction. New and ing. The firm of A. B. Arleigh & Co., successful enterprises are established on Hotel street, quickly worked itself while older ones extend their spheres. up to first place among the stationery The newest Trust Company is the and book stores in Honolulu, and not Guardian Trust, in the Judd building, content with that, has recently doubled largely an incorporation of the trustee- its store area, until now it is the most ship of W. 0. Smith; yet in the few spacious place of its kind in the Terri- years of its existence this concern has tory. A. B. Arleigh & Co. began as so demonstrated its fitness as a guard- the leading magazine and newspaper ian of the interests of minors and others purveyors in Honolulu. They are still that it has had more than once to In- expanding. crease its capitalization, until it is now the recognized caretaker of estates that The American Steam Laundry is one are left in trust. of the successful home enterprises of With new enterprises, there is also Honolulu. The home of this establish- an expansion in insurance. B. F. ment is 1382 Liliha street, but its de- Dillingham & Co., in the Stangenwald livery wagons are everywhere, while a building, are the representatives of the call on the phone-2503—will insure old and new world standard fire insur- prompt attention. This concern has ance companies, such as the Atlas As- been placed under the management of surance of London, the New York Un- a keen, active American business man, derwriters' Agency of New York, the who is keeping pace with the most up- Providence-Washington Insurance Co., to-date methods of handling laundry all of which take care of fire risks in goods with care. Hawaii, and of the West Coast Life Insurance Co., this being the leading Max Greenbaugh is one of the ener- life insurance company, with head of- getic young men who have come to fices in San Francisco. Hawaii, studied conditions and the In the matter of homebuilding Hono- growing demands of the populace, and lulu has awakened with a start. Kai- has made good. Not only has Green- muki has become a little city in itself, baugh established permanent show- and now the almost priceless Waikiki rooms in the Hawaiian Hotel, where properties are being sought by real es- every kind of dry goods from the main- tate men as homes for the peOple. land factories are displayed, but on Beachwalk is the choicest part of Wai- King street, in the heart of the busi- kiki, with a frontage on Kalakaua ness center of Honolulu, he has his repre- avenue where the Waikiki cars pass, sentative who sees to it that throughout and a private right-of-way to the best the islands any store that needs restock- bathing beach at Waikiki. The Henry ing can replenish its shelves from start Waterhouse Company is handling the to finish through Max Greenbaugh, Beachwalk lots while they last. manufacturers' agent in Honolulu.