Usas Best Trips 2
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
INDEX
4th Street Elevator 297 Amboy Crater 277 archeological sites 450 11th St Diner 257 Amelia Island 190, 198 Arches Trail 441 1719 Hans Herr House 64 American Civil War Center 90 Arkansas Delta Rockabilly 1880 Train 344 American Indian Cultural Festival 212 Center & Museum 322 Arrow Rock State Historic A American Visionary Art Site 352 Museum 80 Art Deco Welcome Center Abbe Museum 176, 180 Amish people 61-71 256-7 Abrams Falls 252 Amistad 124 Art Institute of Chicago Acadia National Park 19, Anadarko 17, 322 269, 310 175-81 Ancestral Puebloan people Arthur Bowring Sandhills Acadian Cultural Center 206 397, 448 Ranch State Historical Acadian Village 206 Park 334 Ancient Bristlecone Pine accommodations 25, 651-2 Forest 538 Artist Point 372 Adam’s Berry Farm 148 Ancient Village 319 Asbury Park 50, 58 Adrian 278-9 Angels Camp 556 Asheville 240, 242-3 Adventure Ridge 390 Angels Landing 414 Ashland 624, 629 African American Civil War Angels Landing Trail 439 Aspen 392, 393 Memorial 86 Animas River 397-8 Aspen Art Museum 392 Agate Bay 303 Ann Norton Sculpture Astoria 596, 597, 600, 610 air travel 650-1 Garden 196 Astoria-Megler Bridge 596 Airport Mesa 430 Antietam 84-5 Atlanta 278 Alabama Hills 534 Antietam National Battlefield ATMs 654 Alamo, the 473 84-5 Auburn Mansion 229 Albuquerque 274, 276, 279, anti-slavery movement 124 Audrey Headframe Park 427 418-19, 421 Apgar Village 379 Aurora Borealis 638 Alcatraz 545 Apollo Beach 193-5 Austin 475 Allenholm Orchards 150 Appalachian Trail Avalanche Creek 380 Alma 388 Connecticut & Rhode Avenue of the Arts 110 Alpine 467, 469 Island 131 Alum Cave Trail 251 New Hampshire 165 B Amador County Wine Appomattox Court House B&O Railroad Museum 80 Country 557-9, 561 National Park 91, 93 Backstreet Cultural Museum Amarillo 273-4, 278 Arabia Steamboat Museum 260 Amboy 277 352
659 Badger Pass 507 Bear Creek Mound 224 Blue Front 217 Badlands National Park 341 Bearcat Stables 390 Blues Highway 209-19 Bailey Yard 331 Beartown State Forest 132 Bluff 447, 451 Balboa Island 520 Beaver Island 288 Bluff Fort 447 Balcony House 397 Beehive Trail 175 boating, see cruises Ballroom Marfa 466 beer 147-8, 160, 286 Bob Kerry Pedestrian Bridge Baltimore 74-5, 80, 81 Belknap Hot Springs 620 353 Bandon 606-7 Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art Bodie 539 480-1 Bodie State Historic Park
INDEX Bar Harbor 176, 181 Baring Bridge 381 Bellingham 632, 639 539-40
Boiling River 373 B Barker Dam 528 Bemidji 292 Barnegat Lighthouse 55 Ben & Jerry’s Factory 157 Bolinas 547, 548, 550-1 Barrington Cellars 43 Bend 618, 621 Bonneville 592, 597 Barstow 277, 279 Benoist, Keith 228 Boone 235, 242 Bass Harbor Head Bentonia 217 Bordeaux Trading Post 334 Lighthouse 179 Berkshires 132, 135 border crossings 647, 651 Bass Lake 547 Best Friends Animal Boston 121, 125, 182-3 Battle of Brices Cross Roads Sanctuary 414 Boston Common 182 225 Bierstadt, Albert 45 Boston Harbor Islands 121 Battle of Shiloh 225 Big Bend 381 Boston Public Garden 182 Battle of the Little Big Horn Big Bend National Park 468, bottled water 415 343 469 Boundary Waters Canoe Area battlefields Big Morongo Canyon Wilderness 307 Antietam National Preserve 527 Bowring, Eva 334 Battlefield 84-5 Big Pine 536 Box Canyon Falls 401 Civil War 91, 222-3 Big Sable Point Lighthouse Boyer Chute National Wildlife Cold Harbor Battlefield 286 Refuge 354 89-90 Big Sur 495 Branchport 43 Gettysburg National Biltmore Estate 240-1 Breaux Bridge 203-4, 207 Military Park, Museum & Bird Woman Falls 380 Breckenridge 388, 393 Visitor Center 65, 87 Bird-in-Hand 65-6 Bretton Woods 134 Manassas National Battle- Biscayne National Park 193 Brewery Vivant 286 field Park (Bull Run) 86 Bishop 536-7 Bridgeport 540 Petersburg National Battle- Bismarck 355 Bright Angel Trail 419, 432 field Park 90-1 Black Hills 337-47 Brinnon 587 Bauer’s Market 296 Black Hills Playhouse 341 Bristol 141-2, 143 BB King 216 Black Point Wildlife Drive 195 Broad Creek trail 371 BB King Museum & Delta Blanding 448, 451 Interpretive Center 216 Brookings 608, 611 Blithewold Mansion 142 BB King’s 210 Brown University 142, 169-70 Blowing Rock 236, 242 beaches 23 Bryce Canyon National Park Blue Hole 475 441-2, 443 Beacon Hill 183 Blue Ridge Parkway 15, 20, Bryson City 247, 254 Beacon Rock State Park 593 233-43 Bubba’s Blues Corner 212 Bear Country USA 339 bluegrass music 241 Buchanon 284 Bear Creek Falls 399
660 Buck Rock Lookout 510 carriage roads 177-8 children, travel with 22 Buffalo Bill Ranch State cars, see driving Chimayó 455-6, 461 Historical Park 331 Carter House 223 Chimney Rock National Buffalo Gap National Carthage 271 Historic Site 331-2 Grassland 341 Cascade Lakes 617-18, 621 Chimney Rock Park 240 Burlington 148, 151, 578 Cascade River State Park Chinati Foundation 466 business hours 25, 654-5 307 Choctaw people 227, 322 Butler Wash Ruins 448-9 Cascadilla Gorge 41 Church of San José de Buttermilk Falls 41 Cassidy, Butch 441 Gracia 457 INDEX Bynum Mounds 226-7 Cassidy Trail 441 cider 157
Byrd Visitors Center 103 City Hall, Philadelphia 111 Cat Head 212 B-C
Cathedral Spires 341 Civic Center Park 405 C caves 99 Civil War 65, 83-93 Cades Cove 248, 252, 254 Cayucos 493 American Civil War Center 90 Cadillac Mountain 180 Cayuga Lake 42, 46 battlefields 91, 222-3 Café Beignet 261 Cedar Grove 510, 513 Clarksdale 212-13, 218 Cairo 298 Cedar Mesa-Grand Gulch Cliff Palace 397 Cajun Country 20, 201-7 primitive area 450 climate 24 Cajun Music Hall of Fame & Celilo Falls 592 Museum 205 cell phones 24, 655 Clingmans Dome 248-9 Cajun people 206 Central Cascades 614-21 Clinton 271 California Cavern State Central West End (St Louis) Club Ebony 216 Historical Landmark 556 359 Coachella Valley 530 Calvert Cliffs State Park 78 Chadron 333-4 Cody, Bill 331 Cambria 493 Chapel of the Holy Cross Cold Harbor Battlefield Cambridge 167-9, 171 430 89-90 Camp Hale 391, 393 Chapin Mesa 397 Cold Hollow Cider Mill 157 campervan rental 646-7 Charles River 183 Coloma 560 Canal Street, New York City Charlevoix 287 Colonial Michilimackinac 107 Chelan 574 288 Canaveral National Seashore Cherokee Heritage Center Colt State Park 142 193-5 319 Columbia 352, 555-6, 561 Cannon Beach 596, 597, Cherokee people 247-8, Columbia Gorge Discovery 602, 610 318-19 Center 592 Cannon Mountain 381 Cherry Republic 287 Columbia Hills State Park Cape Disappointment 595 Chester 298 592 Cape Disappointment State Chez Panisse 546 Columbus Park 106 Park 595 Chicago 28, 269-70, 278, Comcast Center 111 Cape Final 416 310-11 Comfort 473, 479 Cape May 57, 59 Chicasaw people 224, 225, Concord (Massachusetts) Cape Perpetua 603-5 226-7 167, 171 Capitol Visitor Center 108 Chicasaw Village 226-7 Concord (New Hampshire) 166 car insurance 645 Chicot State Park 204 Confederate graves 225 car rental 24, 645-6 Chief Shakes Island 634 Constitution Gardens 79
661 Continental Divide 369, 380, dangers, see safety car rental 24, 645-6 388 Dartmouth College 164-5 documents 645 Conway 273 Davenport 297 driver’s license 645 Conway Scenic Railroad 134 Davis Mountains State Park driving under the influence Coolidge, Calvin 156 466 648 Coos Bay 606 Daytona Beach 193, 198 fuel 24, 649 Copley Square 182 Daytona International highway conditions 493 Córdova 457 Speedway 193 insurance 645 Corn Palace 355 De Soto, Hernan 226 maps 647-8 INDEX Cornell University 41 Deadwood 344-5, 347 motorcycle rental 646
Dee Wright Observatory 619 C-E Corning 45, 47 parking 649 Cornwall Bridge 132 Delta Blues Museum 213 road distances 647 Corona del Mar 521 Delta Cultural Center 212 road rules 649 Coronado 490 Denver 386, 404-5 RV rental 646 costs 25, 654 Depoe Bay 603 safety 648, 649 Cottonwood 427-9 Desert Caballeros Western websites 646 Cottonwood Spring 530 Museum 425 Dubuque 297, 299 Cougar Reservoir 620 Desert Hot Springs 527, 531 Duff’s 359 Craig Pass 369 Desert View Drive 431 Duluth 302-3, 309 Crane’s Pie Pantry 284 Design District 197 Dune Climb 286 Crater Lake 625-6, 628, 629 Desolation Peak 578 Dunraven Pass 372 Crazy Horse 333 Devil’s Kettle 307-8 Durango & Silverton Narrow Crazy Horse Memorial 344 Devil’s Rope Museum 271, Gauge Railroad 398 273 credit cards 654 Durango 397-8, 403 Dewey Point 507 Creole people 206 Durham Museum 328 Diablo Lake 578 cruises Dutch Country 62-71 dialing codes 655-6 Mystic 124 DVDs 651 DiGrazia Vineyards 128 Newport 123 Dylan, Bob 302-3 Dinosaur Land 97 Crystal Cave 511 disabilities, travelers with Crystal Cove State Park 492, E 656 521, 523 Dismal Nitch 593 East Fort Baker 546 culture 23 Disneyland 517, 518, 523 East Mesa Trail 438 Cummer Museum of Art Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway 191-2 Disney’s California Adventure 517, 518 533-41 Curry Village 505, 507 Dixon 460, 461 ECHO Lake Aquarium & Custer, George A 341-2 Science Center 133 Dollywood 253 Custer State Park 340-1, 346 Ecola State Park 596, 602 Dornan’s 368 Cuyuna 293 ED White Plantation 202 Douglas County Museum Cypress Creek National 628 Edge of the Cedars State Wildlife Refuge 298 Park Museum 448 Drane, Colonel James 228 Eiffel Tower Experience 481 driving 645-9, 651 D Eisler Brothers Old Riverton best roads 15 Store 271 Dalles, The 592, 597 campervan rental 646-7 Dana Point 522 El Paso 464
662 El Reno 271, 278 Firehole Falls 369 Fort Union Trading Post 356 El Santuario de Chimayó 455 Firehole Lake Basin 369 Four Corners Monument 417 Eldridge Street Synagogue Fishing Bridge 371 Framboise Island 355 107 Fisk Quarry Preserve 150 Franklin 222-3 elephant seals 495 Five Civilized Tribes 320, 324 Frederick 79, 81 Elk Run Vineyards 78 Five Points 191 Fredericksburg 86-7, 92, Elkmont Campground 254 Flagler Museum 196 473-4, 479 Elkwallow Wayside 99 Flagstaff 431, 433 French Camp 228, 231 Ellis Grove 298 French Creek Natural Area
Florence 605, 611 INDEX Elmer’s Place 272 Florida’s Beaches 21 341
Frisco 388, 390 Elsah 298, 299 Foggy Mountain Gem Mine E-G Elvis Museum 253 235 Front Royal 97, 104 Emerald Mound 228-9 food 25, 652-3 fuel 24, 649 Emerald Pools 439 cheese 602 emergencies 24, 655 fruit 574 G Emerson, Ralph Waldo 167 regional food 23 Galena 271 Empire Mine State Historic forced removal of Native Gallup 276 Park 560 American tribes 247-8, 324 Garden Wall 380 Enfield Shaker Museum 166 Forest Park 358 gas 24, 649 Ephrata 68 Forks 586 Gateway Arch 270-1, 350 Erwin’s View Trail 237 Forsyth Park 258 Gathland State Park 80 Eunice 205-6 Fort Abraham Lincoln State Gatlinburg 252, 254 Park 355 Eureka 498, 501 gay travelers 653 Fort Atkinson State Everett 573 Gaylord-Pickens Museum Historical Park 354 Excelsior Pool 371 321-2 Fort Bragg 497-8, 501 exchange rates 654 Gearhart 600 Fort Buford 356 Experience Music Project & Gemini Giant 21, 270 Fort Calhoun 354 Science Fiction Museum General Sherman Tree 510 643 Fort Clatsop 596 Geneva 43, 47 Fort Davis 464-6, 469 George M Murrell House 320 Fort George Island 190-1 F Georgia O’Keeffe Museum Face Rock 607 Fort Gibson 320 418 Fairplay 388 Fort Kaskaskia 298 Geronimo 323 Fall Foliage Parade 132 Fort Lauderdale 196-7, 199 Gettysburg 65 Falls Village 135 Fort Madison 297 Gettysburg Address 65 family travel 22 Fort Mandan 356 Gettysburg National Military Federal Hill Park 75 Fort Matanzas National Park, Museum & Visitor Monument 192-3 Fennville 284 Center 65, 87 Fort McHenry 75 Fernandina Beach 190 Giant Forest 510-11, 513 Fort Niobrara National ferries 632-9 Gilcrease, Thomas 320-1 Wildlife Refuge 334 Figge Art Museum 297 Gitchi Gami State Bike Trail Fort Robinson State Park 306-7 film & TV locations 586, 600, 333 603, 628 Glacier National Park 377-83 Fort Sill 322-3 Finger Lakes 39-47 Glacier Point 507, 513
663 Glen Arbor 289 Grand View Winery 157 Hat Rock 591 Glen Ellen 548, 551 Grandad Bluff 296 Hawk Hill 545 Glen Farm 140 Grandfather Mountain 236 Hawksbill 102-3 Glendale 439, 443 Granite Canyon Entrance Hayden Valley 371-2, 373 Glore Psychiatric Museum 366 Haystack Rock 596, 602 353 Grant Grove 509-10, 513 health 653 Gloucester 118-19, 125 Granville Gulf 157 Healy House Museum 391 Going-to-the-Sun Mountain gray whales 548 Hearst Castle area 493, 501 382 Great Auditorium 52
INDEX Heartland of America Park Going-to-the-Sun Road 15, Great Barrington 132 353
377-83
G-H Great Lakes 14, 263-5 Heaven’s Peak 381 Gold Beach 607, 611 Great Platte River Road Helena 211-12 Gold Coast (Michigan) 281-9 Archway Monument 330 Hemingway, Ernest 287, 288 gold rush 557 Great River Road 291-9 Henry Sheldon Museum 146 Golden 628 Great Smoky Mountains Henson, Jim 216-17 Golden Gate Bridge 497 National Park 14, 245-55 Hermits Rest 432 Golden Spike Tower 331 Great Smoky Mountains Herreshoff Marine Museum Golden Staircase 382 Railroad 247 142 Goldsworthy, Andy 42 green frog 426 Hershey 69 Goonies, The 600 Green Mountain Club 158 Hetch Hetchy 505, 512 Gooseberry Falls State Park Greenville 217 Hickok, Wild Bill 344 304 Greenwood 215-16, 219 Hickory Nut Falls 240 Gooseberry River Loop 304 Grinder’s Stand 224 Hidden Lake Overlook 381 Goosenecks State Park Grizzly Redwoods State Hidden Valley 528 Overlook 450 Park 497 High Desert Museum 618 Goshen Fair 132 Groom 273 highlights 8-11, 12-21 Gothenburg 330-1 Groton 124 Highline Trail 381 Grand Canyon 17, 421, Grotto Falls 252, 253 Highway 1 189-99 423-33 Ground Zero 213 Highway 61 209-19 North Rim 415 Grove Street Cemetery 170 Highway 61 Blues Museum railway 419 Gruene 477-8, 479 216 South Rim 419-20 Guadalupe 493 Highway 101 599-611 village 432, 433 Gunflint Trail 307 Highway I-80 331 Grand Canyon Grand Island Guthrie Theater 294 hiking 416 330 Calvert Cliffs State Park 78 Grand Canyon of the Yellow- H Chicot State Park 204 stone 372 Connecticut & Rhode Grand Isle 150 Haines 637 Island 131, 132, 133 Grand Marais 307, 309 Half Dome 505, 506 Finger Lakes 41, 42 Grand Portage 308 Handy, WC 213 Hawksbill 102-3 Grand Prismatic Spring Hannibal 354 International Peace Park 369, 371 Hanover 164, 171 382 Grand Rapids 286 harbor seals 548 Jeff Busby Park 228 Grand Teton National Park Harvard Labyrinth 168 Maine 175, 179, 180 365-75, 368 Harvard University 167-9
664 hiking continued Huntington Beach 492, Jepson Center for the Arts Natural Bridges 558 519-20, 523 259 Tishomingo State Park Huntly 97 Jerome 427, 433 224-5 Hurricane Ridge 585-6 Jersey Jim Lookout Tower Vermont 158 Hurricane Sandy 52 397 Whiteoak Canyon 102 Hyde Log Cabin 150 Jersey Shore 49-59 Yosemite National Park Jesse James Home Museum 506 I 353 Hildene 133 Jewel Cave National
Independence, CA 536 INDEX Hill City 344, 346-7 Monument 344 Independence, CO 392 Jim Henson Exhibit 216 Hirshhorn Museum 109 Independence, MO 334 H-K Historic New Orleans John Brown House 142 Indian Cave 439 Collection 260-1 John Harvard statue 167 Indian Wars 333 Historic Ship Nautilus & Johnson, Lyndon B 474-5 Submarine Force Museum Indianola 216 Johnson City 475 124 Inside Passage 631-9 Johnson Museum of Art 41 history 22, 160 insurance 645, 653 Jordan Pond House 177 anti-slavery movement 124 Intercourse 67-8, 71 Joshua Tree National Park Gettysburg Address 65 Interlaken 42 528, 531 Lewis & Clark 589-97 International Peace Park 382 Judge CR Magney State Park Trail of Tears 247-8 internet access 24, 653-4 307-8, 309 Hoh Rainforest 584 Intervale Center 148 Juke Joint Festival 213 Holbrook 276 Iron Mountain Rd 340 June Lake 539 holidays 655 Island Beach State Park 55 Juneau 635-6, 639 Holland 285 Isle La Motte 150 Homestake gold mine 345 Isle Royale National Park 308 K Itasca State Park 292, 299 Homestead National K1-Express Gondola 156 Ithaca 41, 46 Monument of America 330 Kalaloch 584 Ivy League 163-71 Hood Museum of Art 165 Kalamazoo River 284 Hoosier Pass 388 Kanab 414, 421 Hoover Dam 420 J Kancamagus Scenic Byway Hopi House 419 Jackson 229, 366, 374 134 horseback riding 156, 439 Jackson Glacier 381 Kansas 271 Horsecollar Ruin 450 Jackson Lake Junction 368 Kansas City 352, 357 Horseshoe Bend 415 Jackson Sq 261 Katz’s Delicatessen 107 Horton Bay 287 Jackson, Andrew 228, 247-8 kayaking 574 hot-air ballooning 128-9 Jacksonville 191-2, 198 Maine 176 hot springs 402, 539 James, Jesse 352-3 Nantahala River Housatonic Meadows State Jamestown 554-5 247 Park 131-2 Jean Laffitte National Park Kearney 330, 335 Hovenweep National 202 Kenosha Pass 387 Monument 447-8 Jeff Busby Park 228 Kent 129-31 Humbug Mountain 607 Jefferson National Expansion Kerouac, Jack 578 Hunt Country Vineyards 43 Memorial 350 Kerrville 473, 479
665 Ketchikan 633-4 Lake Martin 204 Little Havana 197 Keuka Lake 43, 47 Lake McDonald 379, 383 Little Traverse History Keuka Spring Vineyards 43 Lake Michigan 281-9 Museum 288 Keys View 528-9 Lake Peak 455 Live On The Levee 212 Keystone 339-40, 346 Lake Quinault 582-4, 587 Lizard Creek 368 Killington 156-7, 161 Lake Superior 306 Lockhart 478 Kimmel Center for the Lake Village 371 Logan Pass 381 Performing Arts 110 Lake Yellowstone Hotel 371 Lone Pine 534-5, 541 KiMo Theatre 274 Long Beach 492, 500
INDEX Lamar Valley 372 King, BB 212, 216 Lancaster 62, 70 Long Beach Discovery Trail
596 K-M King Biscuit Blues Festival Landis Valley Museum 62 212 Las Trampas 457-9 Long Beach Island 55 King Biscuit Time 212 Las Vegas 413-14, 421, 480-1 Loop, the (Glacier National Park) 380 King Street Station 642 Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum Kingsley Plantation 190-1 294 Loretto Chapel 483 Kirchner Woods Trail 158 Laurance S Rockefeller Los Angeles 29, 562-3 Kite Trail 323 Preserve Center 366-7 Los Olivos 493 Knife River 303 Laurel Falls 252 Lowell 166-7 Knife River Indian Villages Lead 345, 347 Lowell Observatory 431 National Historical Site Leadville 391, 393 Luckenbach 474 356 Leavenworth 573-4, 576, 579 Ludington State Park 286 Knapp Winery & Restaurant Lebanon 271, 278 Lummus Park 256-7 42 LeConte Glacier 635 Luray 99, 105 Knott’s Berry Farm 520 LeFlore, Greenwood 228 Lutsen 307 Kodachrome Basin State Left Bank Books 359 Lynn Canal 637 Park 439 Leigh Lake 368, 374 Kolb Studio 419 Leiper’s Fork 222 M Kolob Canyon 437 Leland 216-17, 286, 289 Macedonia Brook State lesbian travelers 653 Park 130 L Lewis & Clark 350-7, 589-97 Mackinac Island 288, 289 La Crescent 296 Lewis Mountain 103 Mackinaw City 288 La Crosse 296 Library of Congress 108 Madewood Plantation 202 La Jolla 491 Lightner Museum 192 Madison 369 ladder trails 175, 178 Lincoln 329, 335 Magney State Park 307-8, Lafayette 206, 207 Lincoln City 602, 610 309 Laguna Beach 492, 521-2, Lincoln Home 270 Malibu 492-3, 500 523 Lincoln Memorial 79 Mammoth 373 Lake Candlewood 128-9, 135 Lincoln Presidential Library Mammoth Hot Springs 373, Lake Champlain 133, 135, & Museum 270 375 148, 150 Lincoln Road Mall 256 Mammoth Lakes 537-8, 541 Lake Charlevoix 287 Linden Place 142 Mamou 204-5 Lake Chelan 574 Linville Falls 237 Manassas 92 Lake Crescent 584-5, 587 Lititz 69, 71 Manassas National Battle- Lake Lure 240 Little Compton 138-9, 143 field Park (Bull Run) 86
666 Manatee Observation Deck Meriwether Lewis Site 224 Monument Valley 17, 415-16, 195 Merritt Island National 421, 446-7, 451 Manchester 133, 135 Wildlife Refuge 195 Moose Mountain 307 Mancos 397 Mesa Verde 17, 397, 418 moose spotting 157 Manitou Islands 286 Mesalands Dinosaur Moose-Wilson Road 366 Manzanar National Historic Museum 274 Moran, Thomas 372 Site 536 Methow Valley 575 Morning Star Gallery 483 Manzanita 602 Mexican Hat 451 Morrisville 160 Maple Pass Loop Trail 575-7 Miami 197, 199 Morro Bay 493 INDEX maps 647-8 Miami Beach 197, 256-7 Moses H Cone Memorial
Marathon 467-8 Miami Beach Post Office 257 Park 236 M Marblehead 120-1 Middlebury 146, 151 motorcycle rental 646 Marblemount 578, 579 Middletown 141 motorcycling, see driving Marfa 466, 469 Midway Geyser Basin 369 motorhome rental 646 Marfa Lights 21, 466 Mike O-Callaghan-Pat Till- Mount Washington Marin Headlands 545, 548 man Memorial Bridge 420 Cog Railway 134 Marine Heritage Center 118 Millennium Bridge 404 mountain biking 399 Mariposa Grove 507-9 Millennium Park 269-70, 310 Mountain Farm Museum 248 Maryhill 591 Millicent Rogers Museum mountain music 241 Maryland 73-81 460 Mt Airy 76 Matanzas Inlet 192 Million Dollar Highway 399 Mt Bachelor 618 Matchless Mine 391 Mineral King Valley 511 Mt Desert Island 177, 179 Mather Point 432 Mingo Falls 252 Mt Equinox 133 Mathews Arm 98-9 Mingus Mill 248 Mt Greylock State Forest Máximo Gómez Park 197 Mining Hall of Fame 391 132-3, 135 Mazama 575 Minneapolis 294, 299 Mt Hoffman 508 McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Mission Beach 491 Mt LeConte 251, 254 Center 166 Mississippi River 291-9 Mt Lincoln 388 McCredie Hot Springs 615 Missouri History Museum Mt Mitchell State Park 237-9 McDonald Falls 380 358 Mt Oberlin 381 McDonald Observatory 465 Missouri River 349-57 Mt Pisgah Trailhead 241 McKenzie Bridge 620, 621 Mist Creek 371 Mt Rushmore 340 measures 651 Mitchell 355 Mt Silverheels 388 Medford 625, 629 Mitchell, Dr Elisha 237-9 Mt Whitney 535-6 medical services 653 Mitchell, Margaret 236 Mt Williamson 536 Melville, Herman 121 Mitchell Pass 332 Mud Volcano 372 Memaloose Island 592 Mob Museum 413 Muir Woods 546-7 Memphis 210, 218 mobile phones 24, 655 Mulberry Street, New York Mendenhall Glacier 635-7 Moby-Dick 121 City 106 Mendi tribesmen 124 Mokelumne Hill 556 Mule Canyon Ruins 449 Mendocino 497-8, 501 Moki Dugway 450 Murrell, George M 320 Meramec Caverns 271 money 25, 654 Museum of Contemporary Craft 640-1 Merced River 505 Mono Lake 539, 541 Museum of Geology 339 Mercer-Williams House 258 Monterey 495-6, 501
667 Museum of International Folk National Museum of Wildlife Newport Beach 492, 520-1, Art 455 Art 366 523 Museum of Nebraska National Old Trails Rd 272 Niland 530 History 329 National Tom Sawyer Days Niobrara National Scenic Museum of the Big Bend 467 354 River 334 Museum of the Cherokee National Toy Train Museum Nora’s Fish Creek Inn 368 Indian 247-8 65 Norman Bird Sanctuary 141 Museum of the Confederacy National Trails Museum 334 North Cascades 571-9 90 National Women’s Hall of North Conway 134, 135 INDEX Museum of the Fur Trade Fame 42 North Dakota Heritage 333-4 Native American places 17
Center 355 M-O Museum of the Shenandoah Native Americans North Dakota Lewis & Clark Valley 98 forced removals 247-8, 324 Interpretive Center 356 Museum of Western Art 473 Natural Bridges National North Hero Island 150, 151 music 649 Monument 449-50 North House Folk School 307 Muskogee 320 Nautilus 124 North Platte 331 Mystic 124 Nauvoo 297 North Shore Commercial Navajo Loop 442 Fishing Museum 306 N Needles Hwy 340 Northern Lights 638 Naniboujou Lodge 308 Nelson 294, 296, 299 Norton Museum of Art 196 Nantahala Outdoor Center Neon Museum 414 Notch Mountain 391 247 Nevada City area 560, 561 Notch Trail 341 Napa 549 New Bedford 121 Napa Valley 549, 551 New Braunfels 478, 479 O Narrows, the 439 New Buffalo 282, 289 O’Keeffe, Georgia 418 Nashville 222, 230 New England Aquarium 121 O’Sullivan, John 332 Natchez 229, 231 New Haven 124, 170, 171 Oakridge 615, 621 Natchez people 229-30 New Holland Brewing Oasis of Mara 529 Company Pub 285 Natchez Trace Parkway 17, Oatman 276-7 221-31 New London 125 Oberlin Bend 381 National Archives 109 New Market 79 Observation Hill 369 National Cowboy & Western New Mexico History Museum Observation Point 439 Heritage Museum 322 482 Ocean City 56, 59 National Eagle Center 296 New Mexico Museum of Ocean Grove 52, 58 National Elk Refuge 366 Art 482 Oconaluftee River Trail 248 National Hall of Fame for New Museum of October Mountain State Famous American Indians Contemporary Art 106 Forest 132 322 New Orleans 260-1 Office Bridge 615 National Mall 19, 79 New York City 26-7, 106-7 Ogalalla 331 National Mississippi River Newberry Volcanic National Museum & Aquarium 297 Monument 620 Oklahoma City 321-2, 325 National Museum of Newfound Gap Overlook Oklahoma Route 66 Museum American History 86 249-51 271 National Museum of the Newport 121, 123, 125, 140-1, Old Chain of Rocks Bridge American Indian 109 143, 603, 610 270
668 Old Faithful 369, 375 parking 649 Pismo Beach 493, 500 Old Mission Peninsula 287, 289 Parton, Dolly 253 Placerville 559-60, 561 Old River 228 Pasadena 277, 279 Playalinda Beach 195 Old Trace 223-4 Patapsco Valley 75 Plymouth 155-6, 557 Olmsted Point 506 Paul Bunyan statue 292-3 Point Arena area 497, 501 Olympia 582, 587 Payne, Sunshine Sonny 212 Point Pleasant 53 Olympic National Park 582-4 Peabody Essex Museum 120 Point Reyes 548, 551 Olympic Peninsula 581-7 Pelican Valley 371 Point Reyes National Seashore 496, 548
Omaha 328-9, 335, 353-4, Pennsylvania Dutch Country INDEX 357 61-71 Polk, James 332
opening hours 25, 654-5 Pepin 294, 299 polo 140 O-P Oregon Coast Aquarium 603 Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway Ponce Inlet 193 Oregon Dunes National 340 Pony Express National Recreation Area 606 Peter Norbeck Visitor Center Museum 352 Oregon Vortex 628 341 Pony Express Station Original Mast General Store Petersburg 635 330-1 235 Petersburg National Battle- Port Orford 607, 611 Orilla Verde Recreation Area field Park 90-1 Port Townsend 586, 587 455 Petoskey 288 Portland 640-1 Orvis Hot Springs 402 Petrified Forest National Portsmouth 140 Osprey Rafting Co 574 Park 276 Post Guardhouse 323 Ouray 399-401, 403 Petroglyph Beach 634 Post-Dispatch Lake 358 outdoor adventure 22 Petroglyph National Potosi 296-7 Monument 274, 276 Oval Beach 284-5 Powell’s City of Books Overall Run Falls 98 petroglyphs 447 641 Owachomo Bridge 450 petrol 24, 649 Prada Marfa 468 Oxbow Bend 368 Pharr Davis, Jennifer 238 Prairie Acadian Cultural Oxford 225 Pharr Mounds 225 Center 205-6 Phatwater Challenge 228 Prairie du Chien 296 P Phelps Lake 367 Precipice Trail 175 Philadelphia 110-11 Prehistoric Gardens 607 Pacific Coast Highways 14, Philbrook Museum of Art 321 489-501 Prescott 425, 433 Phippen Museum 426 Pacific Marine Mammal President Calvin Coolidge Center 522 phonecards 656 State Historic Site 156 Pacific Park 277 Picasso, Pablo 311 Presidential Trail 340 Palace of the Governors 482 Pierce Stocking Scenic Prince of Wales Hotel 382 Drive 286 Palace Saloon 426 Prince of Wales Island 634 Pierre 355 Palisade 293, 299 Prospect 625 Pierre Menard Home 298 Palisade Head 305-6 Providence (Rhode Island) Pigeon Forge 253 169-70, 171 Palisades Park 277 Pigeon River 308 Providence 142, 143 Palm Beach 196 Pike Place Market 643 Proxy Falls 619 Palm Springs 526-7, 531 Pinnacle Overlook 64 Prudence Island 142 Palos Verdes Peninsula 492 Pioneer Square 642 public holidays 655 Panorama Trail 439
669 Rockport 578 Salida 390 Q Rockwell Museum of Salt Creek Falls 615-17 Quandary Peak 388 Western Art 45 Salton Sea 530 Queen’s Garden Trail 442 Rocky Mountains 15 Salvation Mountain 21, 530 rodeos 426 Sam Nail Ranch 468 R Rookery 310 Samuel Boardman State Roosevelt Memorial 79 Scenic Corridor 607 Railroad Museum of Roosevelt, Franklin D 249 San Antonio 473 Pennsylvania 65 Rooster Hill Vineyards 43 San Bernardino 277, 279 INDEX Rainbow Falls 252, 538 Rose Kennedy Greenway 121 San Clemente 492 Rainbow Point 442
Q-S Roseburg 628, 629 San Diego 490-1, 500 Rainy Pass 575 Rosenbach Museum & San Francisco 496-7, 501, Ralph Waldo Emerson Library 110 544, 550, 564-5 Memorial House 167 Ross Lake 577-8, 579 San Juan Hut System 399 Rapid City 339, 346 Round Barn Winery 284 San Juan Skyway 395-403 Reading Terminal Market 111 Route 100 15 San Marco 191 Red Canyon 439-41 Route 66 ‘Mother Road’ San Marcos 477 Red Fox Inn Bookstore 287 Museum 277 Sand Beach 175 Red Mountain Pass 399 Route 66 12, 15, 267-79 Sand Island petroglyphs 447 Red Rock Canyon National Roy’s Motel & Cafe 277 Conservation Area 420 Sand Point 371 Ruby Beach 584, 587 Reds Meadow 538-9 Santa Barbara 493, 500 Rum Boogie 210 Redwood National Park 498 Santa Barbara Trail 455 Russ Kendall’s Smoke House Reedsport 606 Santa Cruz 496, 501 303 Remington, Frederic 45 Santa Elena Canyon 468 Russell, Charles M 45 Reno 540, 541 Santa Fe 418, 455, 461, RV rental 646 482-3 Revere Beach 120 Santa Monica 277, 279, 494 Richmond 90, 92 Santa Rosa 274 Ridgway 402 S Sapsucker Woods 42 Rift Gallery 460 Sackler & Freer Gallery 79 Saugatuck 284-5, 289 Rim Road Scenic Drive 441 Saddle Rock Trail 332 Sausalito 545-6, 550 Rim Trail 432 safety 648, 649, 655 Savannah 258-9 Rising Sun 382 Sailfest 124 Sawtooth Outfitters 306 Rittenhouse Square 110 St Anne’s Shrine 150 SCAD Museum of Art 259 Ritter Range 538 St Augustine 192, 198 Schoodic Peninsula 176-7 River To The Rails 215 St Charles 351-2 Schulman Grove 538 road distances 647 St Francis Cathedral 482-3 Scotts Bluff National road rules 649 St George 437, 443 Monument 332 Roaring Fork Motor Nature St Joseph 352-3 Scottsbluff 335 Trail 248, 253 St Lawrence Seaway 41 sea lions 548 Robert H Treman State St Louis 270-1, 278, 350, 357, Park 41 358-9 Sea Ranch 497 rock art 447 St Mary Lake 381-2, 383 Seal Beach 517-19 Rock Art Brewery 160 St Paul 294, 299 Seaside 600-2, 610 Rockefeller Monument 249 Salem 120, 125 Seaside Heights 53, 58
670 Seattle 642-3 Snake River 368 statue of three lies 167 Second Vermont Republic Snow Canyon State Park 437 Statues of Presidents 339 movement 160 Snow Farm Winery 148 Steinberg Ice Skating Rink Secret Passage 439 snowboarding 456 359 Sedona 429-30 Soak City OC 520 Steven’s Pass 573 Segar, EC 298 Sonny Boy Williamson’s Stever Hill Vineyards 43 Seligman 276, 279 Grave 215 Stonehenge 591 Seneca Falls 46 Sonoma Coast 497 Stonewall Jackson Shrine 87 Sentient Bean 258 Sonoma Valley 548 Stowe 159-60, 161 INDEX Sequoia & Kings Canyon Sonora 554-5, 561 Strasburg 64-5
National Park 507, 509-10 South Bay 492 String Lake 368, 374 S-T Sevierville 253 South Beach 256 Stuhr Museum of the Prairie Shamrock 271 South Burlington 147-8 Pioneer 330 Sharlot Hall Museum 426 South Dakota Cultural Sturgis 345 Shelburne 146-7, 151 Heritage Center 355 Sturgis Pretzel House 69 Sheldrake Point Winery 42 South Gateway Visitor Sugarlands Visitor Center Shenandoah National Park Center 430-1 251-2 104 South Haven 284, 289 Sun Mountain Lodge 579 Ship Harbor Trail 179 South Hero Island 148 Sun Point 382 Shore Line Trolley 124 South Park City 388 Sunday Gulch 341 Short Trail 158 South Yuba River State Park Sunrift Gorge 381 Shovel Point 306 560 Sunset Beach 519 Sierra Nevada 536 Space Coast 196, 199 Superior Hiking Trail 304 Sieur de Monts Spring 180 Spanish Quarter Museum Sutter Creek 557, 561 Silver Bay 305 192 Suttons Bay 287 Silverton 398-9, 403 Spearfish 345, 347 Sykesville 76, 81 Sioux City 354 Split Rock Lighthouse State Sylvan Lake Shore 341 Park 304-5 Sioux County 332 Sprague Creek 379 Skagway 638, 639 T Spring Lake 52, 58 Skamokawa 593 Springdale 438, 443 Tabor Hill Winery 284 Skyland Stables 101 Springfield 270, 278 Tabor Opera House 391 Skyline Drive 95-105 Springsteen, Bruce 50 Tahlequah 318-19 Sleeping Bear Dunes Tail of the Dragon 248 National Lakeshore 286 Spruce Tree House 397 Tandem Ciders 287 Slidewaters Water Park 574 Squantz Pond State Park 128 Taos 459-60, 461 Sliding Jail 427 Square Towers Group 447 Taos Pueblo 460 Smith Opera House 43 Stagecoach Bar 368 Taos Ski Valley 456 Smith Rock State Park 619 Staircase 586 Stanton Mountain 379 Taughannock Falls State Smith, Joseph 297 Park 42 Stanton, ND 356 Smithsonian Conservation Taylor Creek Trail 437 Biology Institute 102 Stars over Sand Beach 175 telephone services 24, 655-6 Smithsonian Institution 79 State Capitol (Bismarck) 355 Telfair Academy of Arts & State Capitol (Pierre) 355 smoking 651 Sciences 259 Station Camp 593 Smoky Mountains 245-55 Telfair Square 259
671 Telluride 402, 403 Tunnel View 505 Vietnam Veterans Temani Pesh-wa Trail 592 Tuolumne Meadows 506, Memorial 79 Temperance River 306 512-13 Village Inn 379 Tenaya Lake 506 Tupelo 225 Vinita 271, 278 Tent City 52 Tupelo-Baldcypress Swamp Virgin 437 Terlingua 468, 469 228 Virginia City 540 Terwilliger Hot Springs 620 Tusayan 431-2 visas 656-7 Tettegouche State Park 306 Tutwiler 213-15 Volcano 556-7, 561 Tuzigoot National volcanoes 620
INDEX Thibodaux 202, 207 Monument 427 Thomas Wolfe Memorial 240 Vulture Mine 425
TV 651 T-W Thoreau, Henry David 167 Twain, Mark 354 Three Capes Loop 602 W Tweetsie Railroad 236 Three Oaks 282-3 Wabasha 296 Twilight saga 586 Thumb Butte 426 Walden Pond 167 Twin Lakes 391-2, 393 tide pools 607 Waldo Lake 618 Two Harbors 303-4, 309 Tillamook 602 walking tours Timber Creek Trail 437 Boston 182-3 time 651 U Chicago 310-11 tipping 25, 654 Umpqua Hot Springs 626-7 Denver 404-5 Tishomingo State Park 224-5 Uncle Tom’s Trail 372 Las Vegas 480-1 Tiverton 139-40, 143 Union Pacific Railroad Los Angeles 562-3 Museum 353 Tlingit culture 634 Miami 256-7 United States Botanic Tofte 306 New Orleans 260-1 Garden 108 Toketee Falls 627-8 New York City 106-7 Untitled (sculpture) 311 Toni Patisserie & Cafe 311 Philadelphia 110-11 Ursuline Convent 261 tourist information 656 Portland 640-1 US 101 15 Tower-Roosevelt 372 San Francisco 564-5 Trail of Tears 247-8, 323 Santa Fe 482-3 train travel 398, 419, 651 V Savannah 258-9 transport 25, 650-1, see Vail 390, 393 Seattle 642-3 also driving, train travel Valentine 334 St Louis 358-9 Trapp Family Lodge 160 Valle Crucis 235, 242 Washington, DC 108-9 traveler’s checks 654 Valley of Fire State Park 414 Wall Drug 21, 341 travelers with disabilities Valley of the Gods 450 Walloon Lake 287 586 Vanderbilt, George 241 Wallula Gap 591 Traverse City 287, 289 Veldheer Tulip Farm 285 War Veterans Memorial Tri-Cities 591, 597 Ventura 493 Tower 132-3 Tropic 442, 443 Vermilionville 206 Washburn 355-6 Truchas 457 Vermont Country Store 154 Washburn Hot Springs Trumansburg 42 Vermont Fresh Network 157 Overlook 372 Tucumcari 274, 279 Vermont Icelandic Horse Washington, DC 30-1, 79, Tulsa 320-1, 325 Farm 156 85-6, 108-9 Tunica 210-11 Victorville 272 Washington Pass 575 Tunnel Log 21 Viernes Culturales 197 Washington State Capitol 582
672 Washita Battlefield National White Pass & Yukon Railroad winter activities 507 Historic Site 324 638 Winthrop 575, 579 Watchman 438 White Silo Farm Winery 128 Wolfe, Thomas 240 Waterbury 157 Whitefish 378-9, 383 Wolfsonian-FIU 257 waterfalls 252 Whiteoak Canyon 101-2 Women’s Rights National Dark Hollow Falls 103 Whitney Portal 535-6 Historical Park 42 Finger Lakes 41 Wichita Mountains Wildlife Wonderland Trail 179 Lewis Falls 103 Refuge 323, 325 World’s Largest Six-Pack 296 Overall Run Falls 98 Wicked Weed 240 World’s Oldest Rodeo 426 INDEX Whiteoak Canyon 102 Wickenburg 425 Wrangell 634
wi-fi 24, 653-4 Waterrock Knob Visitor Wynwood 197 W-Z Center 241 Wild Gardens of Acadia 180 Watson, Doc 235 Wild Goose Island 382 Y Wawona 507 wildflowers 474 Yachats 603, 611 weather 24 wildlife 584, 605, 606 Yale University 170 websites 25, 646 Wildlife Loop Road 341 Yaquina Head Lighthouse Weeping Wall 380 wildlife-watching 548 603 weights 651 Wildwoods 56-7, 59 Yavapai Museum 420 Weinberg Center for the Williams 419 Yellowstone National Park 19, Arts 79 Williamson, Sonny Boy 212, 365-75, 369 Weisman Art Museum 294 215, 216 tips for visitors 369 Wenatchee 574 Williston 356 wildlife-watching 373 West Glacier 379, 383 Willow Street 63-4 Yellowstone River 371-2 West Palm Beach 196, 199 Wilmington 154, 161 Yosemite National Park 505, West Tunnel 380 Wilson, WY 368 507, 508 Westfir 615, 621 Wimberley 475, 479 Yosemite Valley 505, 507, 512 Weston 154-5 Wind Cave National Park Yosemite Village 505 Wetlands Acadian Cultural 343-4 Young, Brigham 297 Center 202 Windmill Farm & Craft Yucca Valley 527, 531 whales, gray 548 Market 43 Wheeler Peak 455 wine 148 Z Wheelwright Museum of the wine tasting 549 American Indian 455 winemakers 44 Zion Canyon 438-9, 443 White Horse Tavern 140 Wingfield Park 540 Zion National Park 414 White Mountain 536 Winslow 276, 279 Zumwalt Meadow 510
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my colleagues for being the best to OUR READERS work with. PUBLISHER Many thanks to the travelers who RYAN VER BERKMOES THANKS used the last edition and wrote to us Climate map data adapted from Serious thanks to my parents who with helpful hints, useful advice and Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon believed in the value of road trips interesting anecdotes: Debra Janis, TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map and my sister who always sided Fergus & Lorraine Maclagan, Jaye of the Köppen-Geiger Climate with demanding the motel pool Albright, Julie Homer. Classification’,Hydrology and Earth have a slide. Endless gratitude for System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. fruitful support and golden advice AUTHOR THANKS from Alexis during my journeys Cover photographs near and far. SARA BENSON Front Top: Mount Rushmore Thanks to everyone at Lonely Planet KARLA ZIMMERMAN National Memorial, nagelestock. for making this book happen, to all Many thanks to Lisa Beran, Lisa com/Alamy; Front Bottom of my co-authors for all of their help DiChiera, Jim DuFresne and Susan Left: classic cars in Lenoir City, and to everyone I met on the road Hayes Stephan. Bucketloads of Tennessee, Jim West/ Alamy; who generously shared their local appreciation to Lonely Planeteers Front Bottom Right: historic Route expertise. Big thanks to my Golden Sara Benson, Amy Balfour and Ryan 66 sign near Amboy, California, State friends and family, especially Ver Berkmoes for the help. Thanks Michael DeFreitas /Alamy; Back: the Picketts, Starbins and Boyles. most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s farm in Woodstock, Vermont, Bob CAROLYN MCCARTHY best partner-for-life, who indulges Krist /Corbis. I’m indebted to the good people all my harebrained, pie-filled road of the Rocky Mountains. Special trips. Sorry about the bug bites. thanks to Lance and his Ouray friends for the bed and BBQ. Many thanks go out to the talented Rachel Dowd and virtual beers go out to all
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