Fashion. Beauty. Business. special e dition September 26, 2018

Paris Landing Magic Crystal Report Byredo is growing its Streetwear brand Card footprint in the French Advisory Board Crystals Blake Lively capital with a flagship is gaining momentum gets all suited and pop-up due to open with its mix of wellness up — with this week. and fashion. mixed results. Page 12 Page 13 Page 14

business $2.1B The Collections Versace paris Deal Recasts Kors ● The company is set to become Capri Holdings, marking its new portfolio approach.

By Luisa Zargani and Evan CLark with contriButions from Lisa LoCkwood

The portfolio race is on. And while John Idol, Michael Kors Holdings’ chairman and chief executive officer, made the latest move, securing Versace in an aggressive $2.1 billion deal, his company’s going to have to keep pushing to get ahead. Idol told WWD in an interview Tuesday that the company is done with acquisitions — for now — and is going to focus on paying down its post-deal debt load and growing Versace into a $2 billion brand. But the group seems to be open to more deals down the line — once the Versace transaction closes in the fourth quarter, Kors will be renamed Capri Holdings, mirroring Coach’s transformation into Tapestry Inc. last year after buying Kate Spade. Investors started feeling a bit better about the deal and pushed Kors’ stock up 2 percent to $68.01, gaining back some of the 8.2 percent the shares lost on Monday as word of the deal filtered out. Once the deal closes, the Versace family will have a keen interest in Capri’s performance. Part of the total deal value of 1.8 billion euros will be paid in the form of 150 million euros in Capri shares. At current prices of Kors, that stake would equal about 1.7 percent of the company. The rest of the deal is being funded by cash on hand, the company’s existing credit facility and bank loans from Kors’ advisers J.P. Morgan Chase Bank and Barclays. Kors prevailed in what was an active sale process, sparked at least in part by The Blackstone, which bought 20 percent of Versace in 2014 and was eyeing an exit. There are few fashion properties with the kind of profile Versace has enjoyed. Fountainhead It is a very established brand with broad Ayn Rand’s was a novel, and Alessandro Michele’s, plenty novel. There’s name recognition and a long history, but also has room to expand, for instance in even a connection beyond the visual pun: Both Gucci’s creative director the U.S. and through additional stores. and Rand’s protagonist Howard Roark are creative guys who refuse to And Versace was also not already locked cave to convention, although as far we know, only one has an affinity for up in one of the major luxury companies. fountain-esque headgear and falling-water fringe. For more on Monday The opportunity piqued the interest of a number of strategic buyers, most notably night’s Gucci show and the Paris collections, see pages 8 to 11. Kering, but also Tapestry and others. photograph By giovanni giannoni Dealmaking can become almost a reason for being for some companies continued on page 4

9.26 Page 1.indd 1 9/25/18 7:00 PM 2 september 26, 2018

business business Fitch: Lampert’s Nike Sees Record Engagement Proposal Not After Colin Kaepernick Ad Enough to ● Chairman and chief executive inspiring to the consumers that we’re after-market trading. Save Sears officer Mark Parker told here to serve,” he added. “Nike’s Consumer Direct Offense, ● Annual liquidity needs investors he was very Kaepernick sparked a national combined with our deep lineup of conversation by kneeling during the innovation, is driving strong momentum are estimated at more proud of the campaign. national anthem at football games and balanced growth across our entire to protest racial injustice and Nike’s business,” said Parker in a statement. than $600 million. by kAThrYn hopkins campaign initially sent its shares “Our expanded digital capabilities are by ViCki m. Young downward, but they have since recovered, accelerating our complete portfolio and Nike Inc. has witnessed “record” recently hitting an all-time high of $86.04 creating value across all dimensions as we Edward S. Lampert’s bailout plan engagement from its “Just Do It” ad a share, as Millennials bought the stock in connect with and serve consumers.” to eliminate $4.35 billion in Sears campaign featuring former San Francisco support of the move even though some After hitting the headlines earlier Holdings Corp.’s debt load isn’t enough 49ers quarterback Colin Kaepernick. consumers burnt their Nike shoes and this month for its new “Just Do It” ad to avoid further restructuring. That’s Speaking to investors following the release otherwise criticized the brand in protest campaign, Nike has courted controversy according to credit ratings agency of its first fiscal quarter results, Mark Parker, against the campaign. over its alleged treatment of women in Fitch Ratings, which said the proposals chairman, president and chief executive Parker’s comments came as the apparel the workplace. Last month, two former are “insufficient to avoid further officer of Nike, said he felt “very proud” giant posted revenues of $9.95 billion in female employees sued the company, restructuring given negative EBITDA of the campaign, adding that it resonated the 13-week period ending Aug. 31, up 10 alleging they were paid less than their trends [earnings before interest, taxes, “quite strongly” with consumers around the percent from a year earlier. Analysts had male counterparts and were exposed depreciation and amortization] and world and introduced “Just Do It” to a new been expecting $9.94 billion. to a hostile workplace. ongoing liquidity needs.” generation of shoppers. Net income for the Beaverton, Ore.-based This followed Trevor Edwards, the Lampert’s plan includes $1.75 billion “We’ve seen record engagement with company jumped 15 percent to $1.1 billion, former Nike brand president who was in asset sales, comprising the Kenmore the brand as part of the campaign and while diluted earnings per share were up viewed by many as the natural successor brand and the Sears home improvement our brand strength, as you well know, is 18 percent compared to the prior year at 67 to Parker, resigning in March after women and services businesses. The idea was a key dimension that contributes to the cents, topping forecasts for 63 cents. who worked at the company conducted an raised by Lampert earlier this year in ongoing momentum that we’re building Its gross margin, however, was slightly internal survey on gender discrimination an effort to stave off a Sears bankruptcy across the Nike portfolio so that’s really weaker than anticipated on the back and presented the results to Parker. filing down the road. The plan for ESL, how we look at it is how do we connect of higher-than-average selling prices. These issues were not discussed during Lampert’s hedge fund, to acquire the and engage in a way that’s relevant and This sent shares down 4.5 percent in the call. ■ businesses was formalized into a proposal in August. In addition, the plan counts on $1.47 billion in real estate transactions and a $1.12 billion debt conversion. The beauty Nathalie Kristo and latter would make debt holders become Yann Joffredo stockholders. And while it would cut the debt load by $4.35 billion, it would still Huda Taps leave Sears owing $1.24 billion. Sears said, “The board has directed Sears’ management and its advisers Nathalie to work closely with ESL to seek to pursue liability management transactions, and has referred the Kristo as proposed real estate transactions to the existing special committee.” U.S. President “We will now be working aggressively to execute liability management ● transactions so that we can extend our Helena Sampson joins Huda runway and continue executing on our as European president, while transformation strategy. At the same NYX names Kristo’s successor. time, we’ll continue to move forward with our other planned liquidity and by Allison Collins and EllEn ThomAs cost measures,” a Sears spokesman said. Lampert earlier this month raised Nathalie Kristo, who was most recently the possibility of a bankruptcy filing global brand president of NYX, is joining when the company reported second- Huda Beauty as U.S. president. quarter earnings. He has already At NYX, she will be succeeded by Yann dangled next month as a possible time Joffredo, who will now serve as the firm’s president of Kendo Brands at LVMH Moët At NYX, Los Angeles-based Joffredo is set frame for a bankruptcy filing if his plan global brand president. Hennessy Louis Vuitton, overseeing efforts to start his role as global brand president isn’t accepted. The time element could In her new role, Kristo is tasked with for Fenty Beauty, Marc Jacobs Beauty, this month. He is also a L’Oréal veteran, be because Sears has $134 million in driving growth for the Dubai-based Kat Von D and Ole Henriksen in the U.K., starting with the company in 2005 and debt due on Oct. 15. And this isn’t the business in North America. Kristo spent Europe and Middle East. holding a series of global leadership first time the company has raised the 18 years with L’Oréal, working in the U.S. “In just a short time, Huda Beauty has positions with brands including L’Oréal bankruptcy possibility. In March 2017, and Canada. During her time with NYX, already become a powerful brand with Paris, Maybelline and Essie. His most the retailer had its potential-bankruptcy Kristo oversaw the digitally native brand’s its uniquely authentic, empowering and recent assignment has been global general moment when, in a Securities and aggressive expansion into brick-and-mortar positive approach to beauty,” Kristo said. manager of Baxter of California, where Exchange Commission filing, Sears retail with freestanding stores in North Both Kristo and Sampson will work closely he oversaw international expansion of warned about its ability to continue America and Europe. The brand also rolled with Huda Kattan, founder and ceo of the men’s grooming brand and honed its operations as a going concern. out into the U.S. mass market and specialty Huda Beauty, as well as Mona Kattan, digital strategy. Fitch Ratings on Tuesday said Sears retail doors, including Ulta Beauty, global president, and Chris Goncalo, chief Joffredo joins NYX at a time when faces “significant near term liquidity Walgreens, Target, CVS and Walmart. operating officer, to grow regional teams in mass market makeup sales in the U.S. constraints,” attributing that to the Kristo was with NYX for four years, the U.S. and U.K. have been consistently flat or in decline, $134 million due on Oct. 15 for second starting shortly after L’Oréal acquired “These roles are crucial to the growth as consumers embrace shopping for lien notes, as well as “associated debt the brand, and worked her way up from and development of the brand so we beauty in specialty and online channels. maturity reserve requirements under its general manager of marketing and global spent a lot of time searching to ensure The L’Oréal stable of brands — NYX, credit facility agreement on Oct. 1, 2018.” business development. She was tapped to we found the perfect candidates to take L’Oréal Paris and Maybelline — have The ratings agency, which considers run NYX in 2017 following the departure responsibility. Both Nathalie and Helena been continual outliers with NYX as the the proposal a distressed debt of chief executive officer Scott Friedman, bring incredible brand strategy expertise leader, with sales routinely trending above exchange, said even if the financial who went on to take the top job at and knowledge of the industry, which category performance. Mass makeup restructuring goes through, Sears Bellami, an Instagram-famous brand of will be invaluable for the future of Huda and nail sales were flat for the 52 weeks would likely still have annual liquidity clip-in hair extensions. Beauty,” Kattan said. ending Sept. 18, according to Nielsen data, needs in “excess of $600 million Kristo joins Huda Beauty shortly after The departures of Kristo and Sampson compared to NYX, up 20.3 percent. Still, annually,” with EBITDA expected to Helena Sampson, who joined as European are in line with broader industry trends weak mass marketing conditions may be “remain negative in the $500 million president in July. Sampson is tasked — many executives at major beauty affecting the brand — four-week data from to $600 million range. Ongoing cash with growing the business in Europe. companies have left to join start-ups in Nielsen ending Sept. 18 puts the brand up interest expense was estimated at $88 Before Huda, Sampson was internal vice recent years. 15 percent. ■ million.” ■

9.26 Page 2 Nike + Sears + LOReal.indd 1 9/25/18 6:57 PM Untitled-1 1 9/25/18 7:51 AM 4 September 26, 2018

Jonathan akeroyd, donatella Versace and John idol.

and shields against downturns. groups, which I won’t name, that “That’s something that is part of a long- $2.1B Versace But it also doesn’t come easy. achieved far greater revenues than that term vision that will happen over the Standard & Poor’s said, “While the in a very short period of time,” Idol said next 12 to 36 months and you will see that Deal Recasts Kors acquisition will increase the company’s in the interview, seemingly hinting at implemented throughout the company.” continued from page 1 brand diversity and luxury brand the powerhouse that is Gucci. “First and All of this change will require a melding exposure, we think the transaction foremost we will focus on the brand’s of the Kors and Versace corporate cultures. that have been built around one brand’s initially adds less than 10 percent to the iconic message, and that’s going to be led So far, the people at the top seem to be explosive growth, but need to turn total [earnings before interest, taxes, by Donatella and we will follow her lead. getting on famously. elsewhere to keep the enterprise depreciation and amortization] base and The focus is on the Italian heritage of Asked if it was a long courtship, Idol moving forward. at a lower margin.” luxury and craftsmanship. Made in Italy laughed and said: “Donatella does It has long been a dream of the empire The debt rating agency, which revised is very important and you will see it even everything very quickly, that’s why she builders in the U.S. fashion industry its outlook on Kors to stable from positive, more. We will move much more quickly, is still successful. I’m having trouble to create mutlibrand giants to rival the also noted the “integration and execution opening stores, an e-commerce platform keeping up with Donatella, to be honest European stalwarts LVMH Moët Hennessy risks associated with the acquisition.” and really capitalize on the brand’s with you. I thought I had a lot of energy Louis Vuitton and Kering — a dream that Wells Fargo analyst Ike Boruchow noted enormous reputation around the world. I and enthusiasm, but I have met my so far has only been partially realized. that Versace, at 22 times EBITDA, or 2.5 think you will see us do that in a relatively match. It was a very, very short period of But Idol clearly has his sights set on the times sales, “the deal wasn’t cheap.” (Kors is short period. time, we met and we realized very quickly top of the heap. And he is just catching up valued at 9 times EBITDA or 2.5 times sales). “We gave the goal of $1.2 billion in the that we shared the same vision on luxury, to Kors’ closest rival, Tapestry. However, Idol has raised analysts’ eyebrows next three years, it’s a pretty rapid growth heritage and fashion. Not in any order Kors, which also owns Jimmy Choo, in the past with the amount he has paid in a very short period of time and we but those three put together and knowing logged sales of $5 billion for the past for brands: The Jimmy Choo deal was at an will focus on doing that first,” he added. Donatella’s belief in that and our wanting 12 months according to S&P Capital IQ. adjusted EBITDA multiple of 17.5 times, a “We’ll let the consumer speak to us on to support her vision in all three of those Versace will send that number higher figure that also caused some consternation. when we get to the $2 billion. It’s very things, it was pretty simple I think for the immediately and is forecast to log Boruchow added: “With the acquisition within our reach, we know that, we see it both of us to move forward.” revenues of $850 million this year, up of Jimmy Choo and now Versace in a and you can measure that [against] other It is noteworthy that the American from $350 million in 2010. 12-month span, Kors is quickly evolving luxury and heritage brands from Italy.” company reached out overseas, again, to After the deal, Kors will be about on into a ‘luxury house’ of brands, and if they Idol plans to open manufacturing expand. Idol said that while there are “very par with Tapestry, which has sales of $5.9 can hit their targets, the company should plants in Italy and said “certainly shoes talented designers” in the U.S., luxury billion, but still far behind PVH Corp. at be able to drive 25 cents [per share] of and accessories are going to be the goods from Europe simply resonate. $9.5 billion and VF Corp., which will have accretion in Choo (from break-even today) areas where we will make investments “We just made a decision about a year sales of over $11 billion after jettisoning its and 50 cents in Versace (from a loss of in factories in Italy.” He emphasized ago that consumers understand European jeans business. The European players are 35-40 cents today) by fiscal year 2021 — Jimmy Choo’s “enormous shoe business” luxury on a global basis better than any of even bigger, with Compagnie Financière creating 75 cents of M&A driven upside and said the category is one “we would the historical American brands and we felt Richemont weighing in at $12.5 billion three years from now to come on top of any like to control more with our own that luxury is a very sustainable market

Swiss francs (11 billion euros), Gucci parent organic growth the model may generate.” manufacturing,” leveraging Versace and for us to be in as a group over the long- ezvani Kering at 16.8 billion euros and LVMH And Idol is clearly looking for growth Michael Kors there as well. term, so that’s what really encouraged leading the pack at 44.7 billion euros. from all of the above. “Clearly accessories are an area where us to focus on European companies,” he ahi r Scale creates power and influence, The ceo was noncommittal about exact we will need to have manufacturing said. “We are done with acquisitions right unlocks the benefits of a truly global timing and said the Italian brand would capabilities in Italy to grow in size and now. We are going to focus on growing positioning, creates management depth, hit its $2 billion “over the next few years.” scale,” he said, and not only through Versace, which is super important for us,

lets companies nurture smaller businesses “You can see other Italian luxury acquisitions but also by building facilities. Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors.” r by p hotograph

9.26 Pages 4-5 Versace.indd 4 9/25/18 6:48 PM September 26, 2018 5

a look from a look from the Jonathan Akeroyd will continue to serve the Versace michael Kors as ceo of Versace and said he was “very spring show. spring show. excited” to work directly with Idol, who he has known professionally for 25 years. Asked about his first tasks, Akeroyd said “two years in, it’s great that we’ve already started the journey, the platform has been set, and I genuinely believe now working with this new group, with Idol and further investments, we can just accelerate things now.” Akeroyd said three main drivers have been identified: “We’ll be building a stronger accessories business; further investments in marketing, and further investments in retail development. We are set up and we are ready to go and I think with the extra support we can just move even faster. We are all aware of the journey that we are going on and now we can move faster. “The core business is the first line and that has been bringing our growth and we are very much focusing on that,” he said. Akeroyd is also seeking to calm any internal jitters over the deal — especially questions as to whether one of Kors’ first moves would be to replace Donatella Versace as the brand’s creative head. In a memo sent to Versace employees and obtained by WWD, he said: “I would like to reassure all of you that Donatella Versace will continue in her role of leadership of the creative vision of the brand. Donatella is key to the spirit of innovation, empowerment and diversity that lies at the core of Versace, and she is very excited about this development, as you will hear from her. I want to reassure all of you that both Donatella and I are fully committed to this new chapter for the house we all love so much; significantly, the Versace family will become shareholders in Capri Holdings Limited, which demonstrates their strong belief that this is the right move for the company and a long-term proposition.” It remains to be seen how the deal — and the changes that inevitably flow from it — reverberate with the consumer. “The news of Versace’s acquisition by Michael Kors Holdings will come as quite a shock to followers, admirers and customers of the iconic Italian brand, which has always been characterized by its fierce narrative and aesthetic as well as its strong family values and independence,” said Florence Allday, research analyst at Euromonitor International. “However, several years of a difficult global luxury climate, declining growth and stiff competition from brands a shoe from the Jimmy choo like Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Dior, make women’s spring collection. the sale less surprising.” ■

in an increasingly competitive donatella e-commerce skills, which we only this, but we will also create market and now that work has Versace could not have had at that level a lot of jobs. If the company ezvani Donatella Versace paid off. otherwise. And he is passion- grows, you need more people — Her attachment to the family ate. So it was the fastest deal in I don’t understand the con- ahi r r On Michael Kors company and its heritage have the world [laughing]. troversy. We did not become steered her decision-making WWD: This really changes Americans —we are Italian and over the years, leading her to things for you — you secured will remain Italian. The fact that Deal, Her Role this historic moment. the future of the company the company is publicly listed During a phone interview with and are investing in a public on Wall Street is added value. WWD talked to the designer Tuesday, WWD, the designer reiterated company. WWD: In light of this just after Michael Kors Holdings agreed how happy she was, sounding D.V.: I like this very much. As growth, do you plan to build energized and determined — you know all the family, we have your team? to buy Versace for $2.1 billion. and a few times breaking into reinvested in Capri Holding be- D.V.: Surely, I will see what a chuckle. A champion of girl cause we really believe in this to do. I have a beautiful team, “An actual icon.” Quite an introduction, and power, Versace is writing a new project. Yes, I sold but I feel it is and naturally, as you know, I This is how Michael Kors in an interview with WWD, it chapter for her company, and a bit mine, this Capri Holdings, am always open to young new Holdings’ chairman and chief was clear that, while this might for the publicly listed Kors. which is not only Versace but talents that can help me, that executive officer John Idol very well be, Versace is not Here, a conversation with the also Jimmy Choo and Michael talk to me and bring a different described Donatella Versace one to dwell on what had been designer shortly after the deal Kors. I am very happy. I am not message and lifestyle. We will shortly after reaching a $2.1 achieved as she looks ahead was made public. afraid and can’t wait to restart. set up new factories and this billion deal to buy her family’s to the future. As she put it, she WWD: Why now and why company. I’ve been approached WWD: Some Italian media can only help Italy. aestri; Kors runway by Giovanni Giannoni; Versace by by Giannoni; Versace Giovanni by runway Kors aestri;

m company, which she steered for “can’t wait to restart” with this with Michael Kors? by many people and most of have been underscoring how WWD: Did you think of the two decades. new adventure. Donatella Versace: I must them, I didn’t really care for. too many Italian brands have name Capri? Idol emphasized her “incred- She couldn’t dwell when she say I wasn’t even thinking about But I have known John Idol been sold to foreign investors. D.V.: [laughing] No, John ible celebrity following,” as well suddenly and tragically found such a choice. I was happy with for years, I wanted to talk to How do you feel about that? Idol adores Italy and his wife is as “her leadership in the fashion herself leading the company Jonathan Akeroyd [Versace’s him, and the connection was D.V.: This is a beautiful thing Italian. He strongly wanted the field” and said the designer is after her brother Gianni’s ceo], we had a lot of success immediate. I realized he could that happened to Italy, because Capri name, and the three cliffs “even more relevant today than murder in 1997. She chose to over the past year and he did a help grow the company more Versace is an Italian company are the three brands. any other time in her history.” continue to build the business lot of wonderful things for the quickly and that he would bring and it will remain in Italy. Not — Luisa Zargani Versace runway by Davide by runway Versace

9.26 Pages 4-5 Versace.indd 5 9/25/18 6:48 PM PRESENTED BY:

FUR: A SUSTAINABLE, VERSATILE CHOICE Emerging designer and two-time Remix Competition Winner Chunchen Liu discusses why fur is her preferred material.

s the fur debate rages ity of fur, and the ongoing support from and fascinating. I learned quite a lot ments, and I won the grand prize again on, brands and retail- the fashion community. about using fur in garments and adapted – that is how I qualifi ed to automatically ers have been divided my ideas to integrate fur alongside other participate in the REMIX International regarding its use. But WWD: Would you elaborate on your materials. I wanted the main look and Edition, hosted in Milan during Milan the material’s inher- experience with the REMIX competition? body of my design to be denim but Fashion Week. ently natural origins Chunchen Liu: Winning the REMIX wanted to mix fur with it, so I created I only had one garment made and Aare appealing to young, contemporary competition was a very big surprise. I two layers: the outer layer, which was needed to produce two more pieces in a designers who seek ways to create more participated in the competition com- made of fur, and the inner layer, which period of two months in order to com- sustainable collections. pletely by coincidence while studying at was made of denim. pete – I was also then completing my According to emerging Chinese Bunka Fashion College in Japan in 2016. The materials could be detached from master’s course in the U.K. It was a big fashion designer Chunchen Liu, the Part of our summer project was to par- each other to make it more versatile, challenge, but also an amazing opportu- winner of the ASIA REMIX 2018 fur take in a competition — we were going which is the same concept of “detach- nity, and with the help of the Japanese design competition and the INTER- to complete a course on fur, so I chose able jackets” seen in outdoor wear. This Fur Federation, the International Fur NATIONAL REMIX design compe- the Japan Fur Design Competition. To concept then became an important focus Federation, and a few local fur retailers tition, supported by Vogue Talents, fur my surprise, a few weeks later, I was told in my designs. I won the competition in the U.K. who supported me, I man- is a “beautiful, sustainable, and natural I was selected as one of the fi nalists. I with this garment, and was then asked if aged to get ready for the competition material with endless creative possibili- hadn’t even thought of entering a com- I would like to take part in the REMIX and entered with a collection of three ties.” Here, Liu discusses her experience petition before! Next came the process Asia edition, a youth design competition fur garments, keeping the denim and working with Saga Furs, the sustainabil- of production, which was both complex promoting the use of natural fur in gar- white fur as a key focus in the look, and I

Chunchen Liu’s Award-winning designer sketches of a natural, Chunchen Liu. sustainable capsule collection inspired by ocean plastic pollution.

Untitled-1 1 9/25/18 7:50 AM PRESENTS

Bolero in mink, fur Oversized sweater and Tyvek. in mink, fox and organza.

won it. I was very lucky, not just to learn space with a lot of heritage and creative production and the fur farming waste the craft of working with fur, which was energy. It was a wonderful, enriching is turned into useful products, such as completely new to me, but also for the experience. I learned many new tech- biofuels and fertilizers. Also, natural fur many friendships I made along the way nical skills and discovered technologies lasts for decades if professionally cared with amazingly talented creative people, Fur is a and innovations in fur making that I for, unlike chemical-based fur that ends which I will always treasure. never knew existed before. Saga Furs up in landfill sites often after a single beautiful, helped me implement all those useful season. Fur can also be passed down WWD: As a prize for winning REMIX, discoveries into my collection. The through generations and remodeled and you had the opportunity to produce your sustainable, experience helped me also improve my restyled in a variety of ways to keep it first capsule collection in collaboration initial sketches and designs and elevated modern. with Saga Furs. What inspired this and natural both the look and the creativity within collection, and in what ways is it natural the collection. I also learned about their WWD: How has the fashion industry and sustainable? material with ethical sourcing and their sustainable supported the decision to center your C.L.: The inspiration for my capsule col- practices – it was important for me to collections around the use of fur? lection that I produced with Saga Furs endless creative fully understand the material I am work- C.L.: Of course, having the support of came from the impact of plastics and ing with. I did fall in love with the crafts- the fashion industry is very important to synthetic materials on the environment possibilities.” men inside the center; they are very kind me. As a future designer, I would like to and the oceans. Current data shows that and skillful artisans. have the choice and freedom to explore more than 8 million tons of plastic waste CHUNCHEN LIU, all my creative energy in using and inno- is dumped into the ocean each year, and DESIGNER AND WWD: Why did you decide to work vating with materials that appeal to me this is just the tip of the iceberg. These TWO-TIME REMIX with fur? and are sustainable and responsible. Fur plastics and waste do not biodegrade C.L.: I have to say, starting my work is one of those materials that I have dis- and are then eaten by marine organisms, COMPETITION WINNER with fur was completely coincidental. covered and learned about that is in line which in turn enter our food chain. The But since then, after completing the with the fashion industry centering itself plastic wastes have become part of those series of competitions and producing my on sustainability. marine life ecosystems and they threaten friendly non-woven fabric, produced by first capsule collection with Saga Furs, I always base my designs on the fashion their livelihood daily. E. I. Du Pont Company, a high strength, I understand this material much more. knowledge that I have acquired through Unfortunately, our evolution is accom- waterproof, non-toxic, non-stimulating, And I know why I like fur: Fur is a beau- my studies, but with the use of fur, for panied by overconsumption of natural non-corrosive and easy to recycle mate- tiful, sustainable, and natural material example, I push myself to innovate with resources in an unsustainable manner, rial that is even widely used in architec- with endless creative possibilities. It is a technology and style to make the designs which is overwhelming our environment. ture. After use, its complete combustion very attractive material to me. look more appealing and younger. I am Nature is our only home, and this will products are carbon dioxide and water. always learning. affect us humans greatly. Using fur and a mix of those responsible WWD: Why, in your opinion, is fur This served as my inspiration to create materials, I created this natural, sustain- a more sustainable and responsible WWD: Will we see further use and a collection that contrasts the above by able capsule collection to raise awareness choice than comparable synthetics? exploration of natural fur in your using fur, a completely biodegradable and help people understand the implica- C.L.: Fur has strong sustainable cre- upcoming collections? and environmentally friendly material tions of plastics and overconsumption. dentials. Unlike comparable petro- C.L.: I am currently completing an M.A. made mainly by hand, as opposed to leum-based synthetics made of plastic, illustration program in the U.K., and factory machines with petroleum-based WWD: Would you elaborate on your natural fur is a completely biodegradable in the future, I would like to apply my operations and heavy CO2 emissions. I experience working with the master material, which does not further burden illustration knowledge into my fashion then mixed fur with other natural mate- furriers at Saga Furs? nature. Every stage of fur production designs and of course further explore how rials including organza made of silk and C.L.: I had a week of technical training is sustainable: Fur farmed animals eat I can integrate fur onto those designs, if I Tyvek. Tyvek is an environmentally at the Saga Design Centre, a beautiful waste and bio-materials from food get the chance.

Untitled-1 1 9/25/18 7:50 AM 8 September 26, 2018 The Reviews

Gucci

day 2 Winner Marine Serre

for Next-Level Upcycling

The Collections Paris

Gucci spliced with Goodwill items chosen for fact brilliantly — and tactically — planned. down, Michele knows that; at the press Do you ever long for the good old days in their ironic potential. And then this girl In his post-show press conference conference, he even worked in a couple fashion? You know, when all a girl and boy and boy throw a party for like-minded on Monday, Michele talked about his of specifics about the clothes: “I was really had to do to get attention was carry their types, and Jane Birkin wanders into the discovery of de Berardinis and Peragallo obsessed with tailleur, blazers and suits,” own heads in their hands? Life is more middle of it and sings like an angel with a (“they changed the rules of traditional and, “I really take care of the shoulders.” In complicated now. Now, they create their past. And, oh yes, there’s Mickey Mouse (as theater”); the honor of having Birkin a world in which blazers, suits and shoulders own experimental theater, inspired by a a handbag) and Dolly Parton (on denim). perform (she’s “a poet, like a Middle Ages matter, Michele has dared to reimagine grainy, creepy-chic silent film by Seventies’ That was Gucci. troubadour”); and why he showed at a Gucci as a cool enclave for eccentric experimental theater impresarios Leo de Alessandro Michele has done something theater, Le Palace, “(a magic place where outsider types, the more offbeat, the better, Berardinis and Perla Peragallo, about a girl remarkable at the Florentine house. In you get in, and something happens”). with remarkable success. He has imbued with black eyes (smudged or punched?) an instant, he made us all care again He found the history-rich venue, a one- powerhouse Gucci with niche cachet, who looks like a Gucci girl on a bad acid with something wild and outrageous time famous nightclub, the right place making it both spectacular fashion curiosity trip, and who freshens up with a splash and completely antithetical to the Gucci to “reconnect high culture and popular and spectacular commercial juggernaut. of urinal water. Thus inspired, they we first loved and to the Gucci that had culture,” and that it would be “nice to Yet it is now spinning toward self-parody. aître and Giovanni Giannoni and Giovanni m aître create their own performance-art world settled into prosaic merchiness. Through reactivate the underground scene.” Truth is, it may already be there, but the populated by the likes of Janis Joplin and several years, Michele has maintained But with sales upward of six billion euros, trip has been incredibly inviting, fun to a boy in a jeweled cod piece. They dress the heady magic with a dizzying fusion Gucci is way above sea level. It just is. To watch, and filled with great clothes, so who with wanton disregard for convention, of informed, referential, experimental, suggest that it can inaugurate a genuine cares? So far, so great. But when the frenzy some geek-chic-faux-plain, others, as if highly decorative fashion and street, underground (if such were even possible calms, and it can’t last forever, Michele will they got dressed in the dark in a crazy-ass rooted in a genuinely artistic vision and anymore) is to ignore the basic reality of a have to evolve and more tightly focus his vintage store that just received a costume delivered with fearless assurance. While mainstream luxury behemoth owned by a baseline of merry misfit mayhem. More isn’t hotographs by Dominique by hotographs

shipment from waaaay off Broadway, seemingly random and insane, it is in bigger mainstream luxury behemoth. Deep always more. — Bridget Foley p

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day 2 Winner Marine Serre

for Next-Level Upcycling

Marine Serre Koche

marks since Serre’s definition of couture suit bodice and pouf sleeves and a ruffled who live here experience — the result of Marine Serre adheres to the notion of one-off garments, skirt done in children’s bed sheets. Grungy shuttling between her job as artistic director Marine Serre may very well be the new here, all made from used pieces, rather reworked vintage is nothing new. Serre’s of Maison Lemarié, part of Chanel’s stable of model for a designer starting her own than the traditional standards of version’s struck a chord of ironic cool that specialty ateliers, and her own studio in the brand in today’s complex fashion/geo- haute couture. rang familiar. What is sincerely cool is multiethnic neighborhood of Belleville in the political/digital/hyperconnected world. Interesting though it was that Serre where she could take her commitment to northeast of Paris. It’s not enough to bring just good designs felt compelled to break down her still working with preexisting materials — there’s This season, she broadened that vision to the table, so Serre showed up, just two nascent label into subsets, it felt needlessly a lot more out there than your brother’s old to places she has visited, and those she years ago, ready to engage on all relevant complicated. The collection presented sheets and T-shirts. — Jessica Iredale dreams of discovering. A black bodysuit levels. She had logo-ready iconography; cohesively as a whole. Without her callouts was embroidered with silver sequins in references to sport, street and societal/ that denim was part of Green and the show geometric motifs inspired by the tattoos of cultural awareness, and ideas on how to concluded with Red, it would have been Koche Berber hill tribes, while a blue-and-black confront the fashion’s ecosystem of excess difficult discern which from what. At a time when the United Nations is lace-trimmed dress melded a cheongsam and waste in a proactive way. She also had Though Serre’s point of view is strong, meeting in New York, discord between collar with striped tracksuit panels. very good designs. there are still glimpses of the Demna nations has rarely appeared so high. She splashed men’s ponchos and tops Serre’s spring collection marked an Gvasalia school of thought in her rearview Christelle Kocher has other ideas. with pixellated patterns, checks and ethnic expansion and escalation of strategy. mirror. New versions of her’s crescent Her spring collection was an ode to prints, taking advantage of her ongoing Aesthetically the lineup, titled Hardcore moon, on bodysuits, tights, tight-covered unity, under the guise of a celebration partnership with The Woolmark Co. to Couture, reinforced the scarf-dressing, Nikes and Converse, and a dress with a of women worldwide. That could be a develop Japanese fabrics with flocking silk moire turned sporty, crescent moon bralet over it, as well as pieces stamped soignée Parisienne, strutting down Avenue techniques borrowed from sportswear. motifs and upcycling of her past shows, with slogans from her past collections Montaigne in a fuchsia blazer, or a young There were riffs on the soccer jersey with a Formula 1 theme as an access — FutureWear and Radical Call For girl in Indonesia going out with friends in dresses that have become a signature of the point to new decorative motifs and riffs Love — were present. From a branding a sequined top and matching headscarf, label, but Kocher also leaned more heavily

m aître on racing gear. The show also introduced perspective, the label is primed for those paired with pleated track pants. into the dressy part of her repertoire, with four new lines within the main collection: who want to wander over from the Gucci/ “It’s a homage to diversity, a rallying call nods to Eighties Paris couture. Gold Line, which show notes described as Balenciaga/Vetements/Off-White club. in which fashion can be a good vector of “There isn’t a single straight line in this “avant-garde ready-to-wear;” Green Line, The upcycled pieces were her most unification,” Kocher said backstage after building. Oscar Niemeyer really designed “upcycled eco-futurism,” assembled from interesting proposition. The show closed the show, held at the French Communist it as a tribute to women, and I thought it preexisting product; White line, “core with riffs on classical couture shapes made Party headquarters in Paris, a saucer- was beautiful to come back to a certain brand rtw,” which included collabs with from old stuff. A voluminous black jacket shaped building designed by Oscar femininity, while remaining comfortable Trylex, Nike, Converse and Melissa; and was embroidered with souvenir keychains. Niemeyer in the Sixties. and open-minded,” she explained. That finally Red Line, which is “couture.” The A draped dress was made from used white Kocher has always connected with a more sounds like something all women can

Kache photograph by Dominique by photograph Kache terms calls for a second set of quotation sports Ts. A mermaid gown had a scuba nuanced vision of Paris than most people agree on. — Joelle Diderich

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Undercover

Ellery

Ellery Undercover Ottolinger Kym Ellery drew on Paul Kos’ sound Following on from his men’s show in Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch’s installation “Sound of Ice Melting” for June, themed around “new warrior” collections always trace back to their her spring collection. “I really like the tribes, Jun Takahashi divided the hyper- native Switzerland, utilizing its traditional idea that it was a little bit existential playful collection — “The Seventh Sense” lace, craftwork, even bucolic cowbells, and made you think about, ‘Yeah, what — into seven groups, each with their own yet taking them way out of their comfort would that be like?’” she said during universe. zone in interesting ways. her presentation. “I think of the Ellery The designer paid tribute to the work For spring, they sent everything on woman as quite intellectual, and I wanted of British photographer Mick Rock, who a trip, perhaps psychedelic, emotional, to create a collection of wearable but documented David Bowie’s fifth studio or physical, maybe all of the above. unique pieces that are for women who are album, “The Rise and Fall of Ziggy The models were dressed in clothes inquisitive and thinkers.” Stardust and the Spiders from Mars,” on indicating they had been through Mission accomplished. Ellery built her a capsule of colorful basics embroidered something. Their signature denim, brand around restrained retro-futurism with the singer’s face, including a bright with its warped seam work, was and bold volumes that elevate her clothes pink-and-green Lurex sweater, and a black cut into an acid green cropped beyond the immediately accessible. shirt with an allover print and star-shaped vest with curvy, homespun laces They’re anchored in classics — tailoring, buttons, which will likely set the tills and worn with pants that had had feminine poufs and flared pants — but ringing. a run-in with a blowtorch. Denim exaggerated beyond the basic. For spring, An out-of-this-world group inspired biker shorts and jackets were also she worked in icy, fresh colors, such by John Derian’s decoupage technique burned and battered and knits came as silver, gray, yellow and pool blue. featured planet-print platforms and coats in angry, flame patterns. Then the A long silver foiled trench had a slight swirling with glow-in-the-dark planet look shifted from postapocalyptic to a feminine flare to its shape and was worn motifs. More down to earth was the happier new world with satin techno over a sunny yellow knit top. A gray knit “otaku” geek-themed line centered on pieces, lace, gingham, Hawaiian florals shirtdress in an ultralight weave had a colorful knitwear and shirt hybrids and and The New York Times logo that were zip polo collar and a loose, asymmetrical mesh blousons sporting transfers of cult cut up, reassembled and layered into m aître hem. What looked like a classic blue Eighties manga hero, “Creamy Mami, the do-it-yourself looks appropriate for an and white toile de jouy on a blazer and Magic Angel.” otherworldly rave. matching pants featured dinosaurs rather Other highlights included the smocked The overall effect of the curving than 18th-century pastoral scenes. A crop bombers and girly dresses embroidered cutouts, ad-hoc layers and ample lace-up, top with modernly puffed sleeves was with pixelized hearts, and a wardrobe strappy accents was improvisation, as encrusted with snowflake embroidery. set for lovers of all things bright and if everything was made with whatever Everything was ultimately quite wearable. chemical, including a high-shine plastic limited resources were lying around, but It didn’t require deep thoughts to get it, blue anorak and oversize yellow parka. it belied some of the complexity and but it will take a bit of confidence to carry — Katya Foreman creativity of the collection. Ottolinger

it off. — Jessica Iredale — Jessica Iredale Dominique by photograph Ottolinger

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The Collections Paris

Afterhomework For Afterhomework’s first show on the official Paris schedule, design duo Pierre Kaczmarek and Elena Mottola reached out to accessories designer Isaac Reina to create the boxy leather bags that peppered the models’ looks. “He works with Raf Simons for Calvin Klein,” Kaczmarek said backstage, visibly excited. “It was important to us to work with people like him, because we need their support and Awake experience to grow. We’ve never been to fashion school.” Billing themselves as the youngest designers on the fashion calendar, the duo presented grown-up versions of previous offerings in black, white and blue. Off-the-shoulder deconstructed shirts were paired with teeny skirts or stretch joggers; overalls were delivered in a wide-leg version, and ruched sleeves were added to a spaghetti-strap dress. A pop of color was added by a red “Afterhomework Polo Club” sweater, an obvious nod to similar Ralph Lauren styles. An AHP logo was also spotted on a black towel thrown over shoulders, mimicking the font of the Calvin Klein logo. — Fleur Burlet

Awake Capping with the Bee Gees’“More Than a Woman,” Natalia Alaverdian had visibly matured in this covetable collection that Afterhomework carried just the right balance of ideas and wearability. The conservative-chic cloths and silhouettes were broken by weird color Jour/Né combinations and nature prints, from Léa Sebban and Jerry Journo had Ibiza bamboo and canyon prints to the eyes of — and the Spanish island’s iconic Mar y Sol

m aître albino zebras peering out from blazers café — in mind when designing their highly that lent a slightly alien edge. The wearable spring collection full of elevated designer experimented with Japanese beachwear, long spaghetti-strap dresses constructions and organic forms, and short combos of various lengths. with metal ball necklaces punctuating Models walked a red and orange runway some of the looks. Standouts in the whose undulations were echoed in some of lineup of 52 looks included the color- the fabrics used, such as the printed long- blocked monochrome minidresses with sleeve shirt and trousers or the suit made of accentuated waists. wavy eyelets. Signature surrealist touches like the There was a naughty-yet-nice attitude to deconstructed shirts — their collared this collection. For one look, a mint-green, necks transplanted to the fronts or backs two-piece satin swimsuit with high-waisted, — and cape shirts sporting porcelain frilly bottoms and ribbon looped around a pins in the form of tiny clasped hands at model’s midriff was overlaid with an open the front also disturbed the silhouettes, printed Oxford shirt. In another, a cropped though with a light hand. white sleeveless eyelet top was worn with a Particularly pleasing were the fluid long side-slit tie-dyed skirt. pleated skirts paired with minimalist Colorful beaded accessories, like kimono tops which, like the rest of the handbags, belts and a necklace, and collection, felt modern, elegant and summery prints — think fruits and veggies wearable but with weird twist. — helped inject even more zing into this Jour/Né

Jour Né photograph by Giovanni Giannoni Awake photograph by Dominique by photograph Giannoni Awake Giovanni by Jour Né photograph — Katya Foreman spirited collection. — Jennifer Weil

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FASHION Ralph Lauren has been the official “She and the other girlfriends feel very outfitter of the U.S. team since 2014 and fortunate to be taken care of.” will dress the caddies and spouses as well Thomas, who said he was wearing Polo Justin Thomas Expects as the players. For the golfers, that includes before he inked the sponsorship deal, said the uniforms and outerwear they’ll wear on he’s gained a newfound respect for the the course as well as the tailored clothing brand after watching the design process Strong Matchup they’ll sport on arrival, during the opening for the Ryder Cup uniforms. ceremony and welcome dinner. “I was really impressed by their The outfits feature stripes and creativity and how they can come up with At Ryder Cup colorblocking, accented with patriotic logos different outfits with a red, white and blue and graphics grounded in an American theme every two years,” he said. ● The U.S. team will be dressed Thomas was also chosen to play in the color palette of red, white and blue and What’s also impressive is Thomas’ by Ralph Lauren for the Presidents Cup last year, where the U.S. constructed from tech fabrics. “United We résumé. The 25-year-old Kentucky native squares off against an international team Stand” is printed on the interior waistband has won nine PGA Tour titles, has 12 other tournament that will be held from the rest of the world, except Europe. of all on-course pants, and a mapcamo top 10s and was the PGA Tour’s Player of outside Paris from Sept. 28 to 30. The U.S. also took home the win there. print appears on selected outerwear, the Year in 2017. But despite the prestige of that inspired by the Albatros Course. There are But Thomas is still not satisfied. “I don’t by Jean e. Palmieri tournament, the Ryder Cup is perhaps merino crewneck sweaters and half-zip think about rankings when I’m on the more special. “We’re going to be playing pullovers, full-zip vests, quilted woven course, but when I’m off the course, I’m Justin Thomas has been to the Ryder Cup a strong team, probably the deepest team jackets and packable down jackets. The pretty determined to be the best I can,” three times, but this is the first time he’ll they’ve ever had,” he said. The Europeans collection is also available to the public at he said. “I’m upset that there are three actually be teeing it up in the prestigious will field Paul Casey, Tommy Fleetwood, the Ralph Lauren web site as well as select people ahead of me. I was number one for U.S. versus Europe matchup. Sergio Garcia, Tyrrell Hatton, Rory golf clubs and retail stores. a couple of weeks and I’m going to keep “I was very fortunate as a kid because McIlroy, Francesco Molinari, Alex Norén, Thomas is especially fond of the fighting to get back there — and hold it my father worked for the PGA so I was able Thorbjorn Olesen, Ian Poulter, Jon Rahm, outerwear pieces, particularly the one longer this time.” to go two times in the States and once in Justin Rose and Henrik Stenson. sporting a camo print of the course. “That He could turn to one of his mentors for Wales,” Thomas said. “I’ve also watched And because the tournament will be really stuck out for me,” he said. advice during the Ryder Cup: “There are it on TV, so I understand the importance, held on European soil, Thomas knows the His girlfriend Jill Wisniewski, who will a lot of guys I look up to, but Tiger was but I’m excited to be on the other side of U.S. squad won’t be favorites. “There will join him at the tournament, is also “very my idol growing up,” he said. “When I the ropes this time and to be able to play be a lot of people there and it’ll be very excited to get her care package,” he said. was seven to 12, the way he dominated with a great group of guys.” loud,” he said, “and we’re the underdogs everything was so impressive, and fun to As the number-four ranked golfer as far as the fans are concerned.” watch. Now we’re on tour together and in the world, Thomas automatically But he’s nonetheless expecting an have become friends. It’s awesome to be qualified for the team and will join 11 exciting matchup, one that he and his able to ask his advice, but when we tee it other American luminaries in the game teammates take very seriously. up, we’re not really friends. We’re trying today: Bryson Dechambeau, Tony Finau, And while he’s hopeful that the Americans to beat each other.” Rickie Fowler, Dustin Johnson, Brooks will prevail, he knows it’s not a slam dunk. That’s just the way it is with driven Koepka, Phil Mickelson, Patrick Reed, “All Ryder Cups are such toss-ups,” he professionals. Webb Simpson, Jordan Spieth, Bubba said. “It’s the top 12 from both the U.S. and Thomas admits that he doesn’t really Watson and Tiger Woods. Europe. There are no bottom feeders there. have any hobbies and during the off-season The biannual tournament will be held Everyone is really good and the Europeans he watches a lot of TV, goes boating with Sept. 28 to 30 at the Albatros Course of Le are executing on a course they know well. So friends, on vacation to the islands or home Golf National in Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, there’s a potential for a great matchup.” to Kentucky to catch a football game. a suburb of Paris. Thomas said although he played the But his focus is to continue to work Team USA holds a commanding lead in course once during the French Open, he’s diligently on his game in hopes of the overall results for the tournament, with no expert on it. Instead, he’ll rely on the regaining that top ranking. And his recent 25 wins versus 12 for the Europeans (and two skills of his team, which are many. success also brings with it a whole other ties). And it is hoping to retain the cup that it “I’m really happy to be on the team with set of challenges as sponsors and media won at Hazeltine in Minnesota in 2016. these guys who are so comfortable in the clamor for more of his time. Thomas said above and beyond the spotlight,” Thomas said. “They know how “It sure beats the alternative when tournament itself, he’s perhaps most to play when the big opportunities come nobody wanted to talk to me,” he said. honored to be able to represent the U.S. on around.” “I’ve gotten better at managing my time a world stage. “I had the opportunity a few Another thing the team can count on is during tournament weeks. And I know that times in my career as a junior, but whenever that it’ll be well dressed. Thomas, who has what really matters is the effort my team you can represent your country, it’s the been sponsored by Polo Ralph Lauren since and I put in. There are always people who greatest thing you can achieve. It really he turned pro in 2013, will be sharing his Justin Thomas in a look by Ralph Lauren will be negative but I try to stay positive doesn’t get any higher than this,” he said. favorite designer with his squad this time. from the Ryder Cup collection. and the rest will take care of itself.” ■

buSINeSS excluSIve less about copy and paste and more about The 555-square-foot location with floors really creating something — in this case — and walls constructed from Swedish pine for Paris.” sourced from a friend’s mill is to have Byredo Chief Talks (Paris) Shop Due to their long-standing working a selection of products — many done relationship, Gorham requested that in collaboration with other creatives ● Ben Gorham is set to open the brand maturity was there, and in cities design agency M/M Paris play a major and artists — that will be revealed a flagship and pop-up like New York, London and Paris we have role in the conception of the boutique, intermittently over the next three months. in the French capital. great followings and great clients,” so the including creating a mural of sketches. “It’s really a development of products natural evolution was to have the anchor Some of the agency’s iconic art posters beyond anything we’ve done,” said by Jennifer Weil of stores there, he explained. done with Sarah Morris are to be hanging Gorham, referring not least to a major The flagship in Paris, Byredo’s home as well. food element. “It’s our first time working PARIS — Byredo is poised to broaden its base, encompassing all of its categories — “It was [about] looking at the city, and around taste.” retail footprint with a first flagship and fragrance, beauty and leather goods — and not only at our customers and following, He signed on French chef Jean Imbert pop-up slated to open in the French capital the pop-up focusing on just one idea — but also our friends, and being able to get to create freeze-dried gourmet food for this week, days after inaugurating a store camping — are complementary, since they them to collaborate on this store,” said camping. One menu will be unveiled in in London. differ so dramatically. Gorham. “It is really a privilege.” November and a second in the following The flagship, situated at 199 rue Saint- The 2,220-square-foot flagship on two So, too, is the proximity to Byredo month. Honoré in the 1st arrondissement, will stories, still under construction, will be a customers that the stores afford. That “It’s really interesting putting other open to the public on Thursday, while the mix of some things old and some things enables Gorham to better understand people into different contexts and then ephemeral location, at 11 rue Debelleyme new. Take, for instance, the materials them and to have an opportunity to tailor seeing how that comes out,” said Gorham. in the Marais, debuts Sunday and remains such as terrazzo, polished aluminum assortments and create specific products “There’s obviously an experimental operational through yearend. and wood that are found in Byredo’s for the various locations. “I think these component to it, but it’s also kind of Byredo founder Ben Gorham told WWD other stores. But there will also be a stores deserve a unique facet,” he said. challenging the traditional notions of that since beginning his brand 11 years ago, raw element involving the old building’s Meanwhile, the pop-up takes on a camping and outdoor lifestyle.” he’s focused on product and narrative. structure and a ceramic-glazed brick different character and purpose. It was Along with the especially created “I always wanted to open retail, an component for displays. imagined around the launch of Byredo’s collaborative products, the camping important part of the vision, but I was “In all these retail ventures, I had newest fragrance, called Eleventh Hour, store will carry items from the likes of quite specific in terms of how and when,” the opportunity to work with great out this month. “It’s a fragrance imagined Vargo, which makes titanium equipment, he said. “Building a company from scratch craftsmen,” said Gorham. “Even though around the idea of being the last perfume and Leatherman tools. It is to have a takes time, especially in regards to our these stores [share] the same emotion, I on earth,” said Gorham. “This entire designated web shop, as well. approach, [which] is quite thorough and really tackle them individually and try to pop-up is a build-out and an exploration of “An outdoor lifestyle over the last five, sometimes even slow. understand and respect the place they that idea in the form of a camping store.” six years has become very important to “But a few years ago, we started to feel are in — the city, the neighborhood. So it’s But it will be no typical camping shop. me,” said Gorham. ■

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men’s Advisory Board if you believe in something, it is real and it Crystals does work for you. But it’s not a black-and- white or a right-or-wrong thing.” How Advisory Board It’s uncanny how simpatico they are about very specific things. They both lament the decline of Virgin Airlines post Richard Crystals Merges Wellness Branson, they both think Dover Street Market isn’t as exciting as it used to be, and they both aren’t into unofficial do-it-yourself With Streetwear projects, including the tie-dye sneakers ● Started by Remington Guest of the world and the wearer, but in the most people keep tagging them in on Instagram. noncontrived way. Eternal youth, or living They prefer certified partnerships like the and Heather Haber, Abc. is a forever, is an ongoing theme for the brand. one they had with Nike Milan on an Abc. Air study in how customers T-shirts feature terms like Eudaimonia, Force 1 that was sold exclusively at Slam Jam. want to shop and what they an Ancient Greek word that translates Guest, a Nike obsessive who refuses to work to “fulfillment,” and certain pieces are with any other sneaker brand, said it’s hard are buying into. constructed with fabric that shields the to say whether it will get a wider release at by AriA HugHes body from EMF radiation emitted by some point. cell phones. Haber and Guest explain They are also both critical consumers Outside of making somewhat interesting, this information via extensive Instagram who believe retail needs to change limited-edition product, the loose formula captions and sometimes zines that come and they’re attempting to defy that by for breaking through and succeeding in with the purchase of product. And they eschewing seasonal collections and streetwear today goes as follows: 1. Be don’t confine their collaborations to working on capsules made exclusively Supreme; 2. Be Supreme alumni; 3. Be clothing or fashion brands. They’ve created for specific retailers and artists. The two associated with Kanye West or 4. Seed a Youth Elixir with Furnace Creek Farms are juggling about 10 collaborations with clothes to influencers who are probably and recently partnered with Wikipedia on a everyone ranging from artist Ai Weiwei to also connected with West. T-shirt to help support the platform. a luxury brand they can’t disclose. Neither Heather Haber nor Remington “We are always on Wikipedia York where he mentioned Abc. and later Guest said the clothes, which are Guest, the couple behind Advisory Board researching about wellness and filtering presented the entire concept to him. made in the U.S., aren’t marked up in Crystals, which is self-funded, have worked that into our brand,” said Haber. “We want “I was blown away,” said Gibbs. “They an exorbitant way. He remembered a for Supreme, and while they idolize him to offer information to live a better life, but had thought everything out, even things dip-dyed T-shirt from Band of Outsiders and appreciate his candor, they don’t not in a preaching or teaching way. Just by that I never would have. They had all these retailing for $900, while a hand-dyed know Kanye West. They also don’t seed sharing the knowledge.” creative ways that they wanted to connect T-shirt from Abc. is usually around $100. clothes to anyone, including Justin Bieber, Haber and Guest met in Los Angeles in with their customer. I thought it was really Some of that is because they do the labor who purchased their pants from Patron of 2015 in the back seat of an Uber Pool car, dope. Not to mention, they had a really themselves, but they also believe that the New and wore them earlier this month. and randomly crossed paths again later great chemistry between the two of them.” pricing for their collection should be fair. And although they live in Los Angeles, that day at the Ace Hotel. Haber grew up The first collection, which was titled “I believe in exclusivity through which has turned into a breeding ground in Miami and studied fashion design at Otis “What Took You So Long?” told the story of availability, not by price point,” said Guest. for streetwear brands that cross over into College of Art and Design. She ran her own how they met and it featured a crystal pack Haber added: “The paradigm has shifted. luxury territory, they orbit in their own dress line, Haber, for a few seasons while along with hand-dyed, rose quartz infused Girls mostly care about workout clothes, skin very private world that’s consumed by interning for brands including Three as T-shirts, which sold out almost immediately. care, makeup and supplements. The other each other and building Abc., shorthand Four and Band of Outsiders. Guest, who is Tie-dye is trending in streetwear — stuff is secondary. For myself, I don’t buy for Advisory Board Crystals. from New York, also worked for Band of see Online Ceramics — and crystals are anything. I wear all Abc. and random vintage “We don’t know anyone,” said Guest. Outsiders — there was no overlap between having a moment with Millennials — see or thrifted skirts that I’ve had for a while.” “I know Scott Sternberg from Band of the two — and ran a food blog called The their office desks — but Haber and Guest Despite this new paradigm, there are Outsiders, but that’s just a different thing.” Cheap, The Best & The Hidden. believe their brand is more than its dyeing plans to launch a women’s collection, Despite being disconnected from the They discovered their shared obsession techniques and said they were into crystals which they said will be different from the streetwear scene, over the course of two for crystals on their first date when Guest long before they became a thing. They men’s line and won’t include streetwear or years Abc. has quickly become a key player took Haber to a crystal store and bought present crystals and wellness in a way ath-leisure. And despite being disenchanted in it. The couple has worked with retailers her a lepidolite crystal, which helps relieve that feels advisory rather than restrictive, with most retail, they are interested in including Grailed, Colette, Bergdorf stress and anxiety. Over Thanksgiving they which isn’t typical — see Goop. opening their own physical space for Abc. Goodman, Union and Barneys New York drafted a plan for Advisory Board Crystals, “I collected crystals because they were But what would that look like? on capsule collections that quickly sold which wasn’t meant to be a clothing beautiful, but I didn’t necessarily know “I mean, wouldn’t everyone want to out, and built a following with their brand, but rather a contemporary crystal the names of all of them or the healing know?” said Guest. “We are secretive for distinct crystal-infused dye technique and store that also sold talismans and home properties,” said Haber. “But we approach a reason. It’s only the two of us right now hand-crafted details. decor. Remington met Chris Gibbs, the them from a viewpoint that’s more so we have to be protective. But it won’t be The clothes connect to the greater good owner of Union, at a Noah pop-up in New pragmatic and less spiritual. We think that your typical store.” ■

fashion media, collections could no longer to help push this strategy forward. In be presented every six months. Tod’s November, it revealed that chief executive has tested the waters by joining forces officer Stefano Sincini was leaving after 33 Tod’s Unveils with retailers such as Mytheresa.com, years with the company, to be succeeded and said it also planned to enlist rising by Umberto Macchi di Cellere, previously Capsule With photographers, students and filmmakers managing director of worldwide sales at to court a younger customer. Bulgari. Dell’Acqua’s collection consists of nine Della Valle said then that 2018 was going Alessandro shoe styles and seven ready-to-wear pieces to be a year of transition, citing the new in three colorways — pink, black and tan team of managers and a strong component — and will hit stores from mid-November, of innovation. Dell’Acqua the brand said. It includes variations on its The group reported a 2.8 percent decrease Diego Della Valle and signature driving shoes such as pointy-toed in net profit to 33.7 million euros in the first ● The collection, consisting of Alessandro Dell’Acqua moccasins with a velvet bow, or stretch half, but Della Valle noted that at constant nine shoe styles and seven ankle boots with curved heels. exchange rates, revenues at both Tod’s and rtw pieces, will hit stores from mix of capsules and limited editions in “It’s been a huge honor,” the designer Roger Vivier had returned to growth. On collaboration with different designers and said, adding that he felt like he did at the Tuesday, he acknowledged luxury brands mid-November. friends of the house. beginning of his career, working with are going through turbulent times. by Joelle DiDericH “We need to have to have — maximum traditional craftsmen. “There is an incredible confusion in every two months — a new product going Tod’s has been without a women’s the market. Now, everything is like a Nike PARIS — The cat is out of the bag: After on the market directly,” Della Valle told a creative director since Alessandra store,” he said. Nonetheless, Della Valle setting tongues wagging by attending room full of fashion editors at a breakfast Facchinetti stepped down in 2016, but believes brands should remain true to their Alessandro dell’Acqua’s No. 21 show in meeting at the Ritz Paris hotel during Paris plans to continue showing seasonal roots, which in the case of Tod’s is Italian Milan, entrepreneur Diego Della Valle said Fashion Week. collections in Milan. Andrea Incontri is in quality and craftsmanship. “What I suggest: Tuesday he has drafted the designer to “We try to remain what we are, and charge of the men’s division. try to stay in your DNA 100 percent, but create the first capsule collection for Tod’s at the same time we put curiosity in Smaller collections with more frequent what changes is the communication.” under its new strategy. our product, a lot of creativity and drops fits in with the fashion world’s latest As for future designer collaborations? As reported in February, the Italian movement,” added the executive, who strategy to try to excite consumers beyond His brief was simple. “The feeling is: luxury group is overturning its business was flanked by dell’Acqua and model Edie the main seasons twice a year. Picking up ‘People with taste.’ I don’t want to have

oard Crystals photograph by Ger by photograph Crystals oard model and launching a new project Campbell, who is the face of the collection. from streetwear brands such as Supreme around me people without taste, because called Tod’s Factory, in a reference to “We are doing more in one year than we and Kith, luxury labels from Givenchy to these people don’t know anything, they Andy Warhol. In a system mirroring did in the previous 20.” Kiton are adopting the concept. destroy everything in two seasons,” he

Advisory b the streetwear drop, it will release a He noted that with the speed of social Tod’s has shaken up its executive ranks said to laughter from the room. ■

9.26 Page 13 Advisory Board + Insta.indd 1 9/25/18 6:45 PM 14 September 26, 2018

Report Card Blake Lively and the Power Suit As Lively winds down her press tour for “A Simple Favor,” a look at the suits she’s donned in honor of the role. One thing’s for certain: It’s time she comes out of character.

aB Two things are undeniable: One, the color looks great on her, and two, the silhouette aB- Sartorially, the suit Ca Lively is the gift feels very chic. But this fits her well. But the that keeps on giving. highly committed effort pink satin lapels with Here, she is the would be the perfect C-aThe ethereal silver tie and silky circus master with an companion for an bridal-meets- fabrics shifts the incredible ability for Eighties Kermit the Frog. equestrian look outfit into stripper high magic tricks. A top If that’s her objective, would seem at home gear. And a portable hat and a white rabbit she should lose the in a folklore land steamer would go a would help seal annoying bedazzled full of unicorns and long way post limo the deal. shoes and go full Kermit. flute-playing fauns. ride. ace/ re X/ re X/Shutterstock e p ictures/ eed/AC X/Shutterstock, Gregory p Gregory unch/ re X/Shutterstock,

FAIL X/Shutterstock, m edia p re X/Shutterstock, b roadimage/ re X/Shutterstock, a a A three-piece+ denim DThe theme here D is a rainy afternoon suit is not a good in the British idea, even in concept. aA- This chic, updated countryside, but But when adding the Oliver Twist fits her unfortunately more all-over geometric like a glove. The outfit floral cottage chintz print, combat boot a The color-blocking should teach her a than fashion. She and multiple pocket paired with the graphic lesson: Sleek, minimal shouldn’t look like watches, the result is turtleneck and bright suiting is the way you’re going to sit plain confusing. Where green pants is very to go. on her to have a cup are you going dressed groovy, baby. But that hotographs by Anthony Harvey/ Anthony by hotographs p of tea. like that? doesn’t make it right. r and m ike re X/Shutterstock e p ictures/ Curtis m eans/AC re X/Shutterstock, m att b aron/ Shutterstock,

9.26 Page 14 Report Card.indd 14 9/25/18 7:42 PM September 26, 2018 15

Fashion Scoops

includes experiences at Giorgio Faye Dunaway Jared Leto year, she has little contact with Fashion Armani and Sundek. the fashion industry, noting that Presca had joined Golden Michele is an exception. Royalty Goose in March 2017 from “I found him very handsome, It’s not just Stateside that the Italian footwear company Geox. very intelligent, very cultivated. celebrations for Ralph Lauren’s His arrival coincided with the I enjoyed spending half-an-hour 50th anniversary are in full swing completion of the acquisition of with him. He spoiled me and I sent this year. On Dec. 4, the French- Golden Goose by The Carlyle him a photograph of potatoes,” American Foundation will host a Group, and he was tasked with she said. Come again? “Because gala dinner in his honor — at the structuring the organization I photograph exceptional Château de Versailles, no less. and growing its business potatoes,” she explained. Lauren will be celebrated for globally, which was “successfully “They are heart-shaped.” his “unparalleled impact on the completed,” the company So was she to credit for fashion world for 50 years,” states said. Presca will continue to Michele sending guests a sack the invitation to the event, hosted collaborate with Carlyle as of flower bulbs by way of an under the patronage of French director of the board of Italian invitation? “That’s a brilliant idea, President Emmanuel Macron. fashion company Twinset SpA, because the idea of nature is so Lauren held his anniversary also under the fund’s umbrella. far removed from fashion that fashion show and dinner in Central Carlyle purchased Golden it was a sort of extraordinary Park during New York Fashion Goose from the founders and reconciliation,” she marveled. Week earlier this month. Other creative directors Alessandro “Everyone is going to plant them.” events and accolades for his Gallo and Francesca The 90-year-old is busy working milestone year include receiving Rinaldo; Ergon Capital Partners, on the follow-up to “Faces Places,” the first CFDA Members Salute and Zignago Holding SpA, which which was nominated for the by fellow American designers, is controlled by the Marzotto best documentary at the 2018 including Thom Browne, family. Ergon Capital Partners III Academy Awards. “I’m doing a Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, SA acquired a majority stake in documentary about my work. It’s Jason Wu and Donna Karan, Golden Goose in 2015. a sort of master class, because commemorating his career, at — LUISA ZARGANI it’s time to leave behind a few the CFDA Awards in June, while messages,” she said. Rizzoli published a book done In the darkened orchestra in partnership with WWD, titled Pick and Mix section, a woman in a gold- “WWD: Fifty Years of Ralph Alessandro Michele assembled sequined dress stood out. It Lauren,” a 192-page tome of an eclectic cast of divas and turned out to be Molly Lewis, five decades of archival stories, misfits for his one-off Gucci known professionally as Whistler’s photos and illustrations. show in Paris at the legendary Sista, who can whistle tunes — ALEX WYNNE theater Le Palace, home to photographs were great.” and diminutive Belgian director differ. The club’s official history ranging from the Queen of the France’s equivalent of Studio 54 The star of classic films like Agnès Varda. Gucci ceo Marco says it opened on March 1, 1978, Night aria in Mozart’s “Magic Flute” in the late Seventies. “Bonnie and Clyde” said she was Bizzarri sat with his childhood and Grace Jones claims in her to Nicki Minaj’s “Truffle Butter.” Di Marco’s Leading the Hollywood flattered to be considered a friend, renowned Italian chef memoir that she performed “It’s very niche and there aren’t contingent was Faye Dunaway, style icon. Massimo Bottura. that day. many whistlers in the world, so New Role who stars in ads for the Italian “I feel wonderful about it, I really Dotted throughout the theater “I inaugurated this place. I was it’s not even something I knew Former Gucci chairman and chief brand’s Sylvie bag. The Oscar- do. You work very hard every step were the likes of Jared Leto, the first,” Lear said emphatically. existed in a wider sense until I executive officer Patrizio di Marco winning actress hugged a very of the way with the designers, you Hari Nef, South Korean singer “The paint wasn’t dry, there were was in my late teens and I kind of has joined Golden Goose Deluxe pregnant Soko, who plays her know, from [‘Bonnie and Clyde’ Kai, David Furnish, Jorja Smith, no dressing rooms. Fabrice Emaer found out that competitions were Brand as chairman of the board. daughter in the campaign, before costume designer] Theadora Van Lou Doillon, Jolin Tsai, Maurizio came to get me in Italy and told a thing,” she said. He succeeds Marco De Benedetti, taking her seat in the stalls. Runkle to ‘Thomas Crown,’ all of Cattelan and Balenciaga me he was doing a kind of Studio Michele, apparently, is a fan. who will remain as director, and is Though she has influenced many the films I’ve done, and it’s very designer Demna Gvasalia, 54 in Paris. So there were lasers “I got an e-mail — very random,” managing director and cohead of designers, the 77-year-old was nice to be recognized and for it alongside a galaxy of rising everywhere and I sang here. There said the Australian performer, Carlyle’s Europe Buyout group, the honored that Michele picked her. to be an inspiration to all of these actors, photographers, musicians, were 5,000 people blocking the who plans to play two shows buzzy sneaker label’s parent fund. “I couldn’t believe that he asked people,” she said. dancers and influencers. street — all of Paris was here.” while in Paris. “I’ve never been to Giorgio Presca, chief executive me to do it,” she said. “In fashion, Behind her, editors peered Amanda Lear recalled Varda apparently wasn’t one a fashion show. This is all very officer of Golden Goose Deluxe he is the man to meet right now. through binoculars to identify performing at Le Palace 40 of them. “I don’t dance and I don’t new for me.” A glance at her Brand, has exited the label, I mean, the kids love him, they the VIPs in the boxes. François- years earlier to the day, on what drink,” she said with a shrug. videos on YouTube confirms the succeeded by Silvio Campara, keep coming in, and his line and Henri Pinault, the head of Gucci’s she remembered as its opening Though the New Wave director obvious: Michele has an eye for the brand’s chief commercial his garments are really wonderful, parent company Kering, was night — though accounts of the wore Gucci to accept her honorary hidden genius. officer since 2013. His background so I’m very happy with it and the flanked by his wife Salma Hayek party-loving era predictably Oscar from Angelina Jolie last — JOELLE DIDERICH

business classes in several stores, including the 59th Street flagship in Manhattan. But there won’t be any broken noses. “It’s really Designer Boxing Gloves Set for Cause about the exercise component with boxing motions,” Berman explained. “It’s shadow ● Bloomingdale’s will auction part of Bloomingdale’s annual Pink Zac Zac Posen handbags including his boxing. It’s not about fighting someone.” them off to benefit the Breast campaign for Breast Cancer Awareness leather and floral motif; Rag & Bone gloves In 2014, Bloomingdale’s got designers to Cancer Research Foundation. Month, runs Oct. 1 to 30 on CharityBuzz. are hand-dipped in pink glass with a reimagine pro football helmets, in honor com, with $250 the minimum bid. crushed look to signify “crushing” breast of the Super Bowl being hosted by New by DaviD Moin Stepping into the ring were Alice + cancer, and Ralph Lauren’s pair say “Love” York and played at MetLife Stadium in East Olivia, APL, Bally, Charlotte Tilbury, Fila, with an American flag motif, symbolizing Rutherford, N.J. In the fight against breast cancer, MCM, Rag & Bone, Ralph Lauren, Sachin & the hope to unify the country in its fight The designer boxing gloves will be Bloomingdale’s is saying “put up Babi, Sean John, Swarovski, Zac Posen and against breast cancer. displayed in the flagship’s Lexington Avenue your dukes.” Michael Aram. Swarovski’s gloves, as could be arcade housing designer accessories. The retailer has roped in 13 designers to “As a designer, it’s great to be thrown expected, are embellished from fist to “They’re works of art and conversation customize Everlast boxing gloves, which into something and have to figure it out,” wrist with more than 23,000 hand-applied pieces, rather than meant to be functional,” will be auctioned off to benefit the Breast Aram said. “When this challenge came up, crystals, making a bold statement to signify Berman noted. Fourteen pairs of gloves Cancer Research Foundation. The auction, I thought about how to make it my own the strength shown by those touched by seemed logical to Bloomingdale’s and build a story into it. I am also a cancer the disease; Charlotte Tilbury’s gloves are considering it has supported BCRF for Charlotte Tilbury’s survivor. I feel close to the subject. The covered in her signature night crimson 14 years. Larger-than-life boxing gloves boxing gloves for metaphor for boxing gloves is really a good and blush nude colors, to represent by Jen Mussari of the Ghostly Ferns artist

aule Bloomingdale’s.

r one. They are so soft, supple, fleshy, but they hope, strength and sophistication, and collective in Brooklyn will be displayed, symbolize something fierce and aggressive.” Bloomingdale’s in-house creative team also as will punching bags to punch up the Aram, whose creative process is rooted customized a pair of gloves, which will also presentation. The artist collective also in a realistic take on nature, customized be auctioned. covered a S’well bottle with terms of female his gloves with gilt orchids dipped in silver “The whole theme behind our campaign empowerment, and created a pin with a for a metallic quality, and like the other for breast cancer awareness is about pink mascot that customers can purchase to designers, he kept the Everlast logo visible, taking action, empowerment and women’s benefit the cause. but with a “frosting.” strength in coping with the disease and Everlast will host boxing classes Oct. “I always love orchids as a symbol of getting out in front of it,” said Frank 20 at Bloomingdale’s stores, which are extreme femininity,” Aram said. Berman, Bloomingdale’s executive vice also staging yoga and fitness classes, to “Where flowers grow there is hope, president and chief marketing officer. advocate health and well-being and cast gracefulness, determination.” As part of the breast cancer awareness Bloomingdale’s as a community gathering

Dunaway and Leto photographs by Jacopo by photographs and Leto Dunaway Zac Posen used classic elements from initiative, Bloomingdale’s will hold boxing place transcending selling products. ■

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