SPring 2015 Thesizzle American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking

the benefits of pop-ups

nontraditional fish menu trend

Q&A with Indianapolis chef Neal Brown sizzle The American Culinary Federation features NExt Quarterly for Students of Cooking 20 Pop-up Restaurants Publisher issue American Culinary Federation, Inc. Benefit Everyone • Culinary crowdfunding campaigns Editor-in-Chief Unconventional dining events give chefs the • Pickling Jessica Ward opportunity to build a reputation. • Recipe testing as a career Senior Editor 26 Nontraditional Fish Trend Kay Orde Chefs are raising awareness of underutilized seafood Graphic Designer and putting it on the menu. David Ristau

Contributing Editors 32 Consider a Career as Rob Benes a Cake Decorator Suzanne Hall Ethel Hammer Cake decorating is more than Jody Shee just a hobby for pastry chefs with 20 26 32 Direct all editorial, advertising imagination and artistic talent. and subscription inquiries to: American Culinary Federation, Inc. 180 Center Place Way St. Augustine, FL 32095 (800) 624-9458 [email protected] departments Subscribe to Sizzle: 4 President’s Message www.acfchefs.org/sizzle ACF president Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, challenges young chefs to seize For information about ACF new leadership opportunities available within ACF. certification and membership, go to www.acfchefs.org. 6 Amuse-Bouche Student news, opportunities and more. 12 Slice of Life Paola Schwartz walks us through a busy day of her internship at The Sunflower Café in facebook.com/ACFChefs @acfchefs Nashville, Tennessee. 14 Classical V. Modern Sizzle: The American Culinary Federation Quarterly Dawn Viola and Robert Aristondo from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in for Students of Cooking (ISSN 1548-1441), Spring Volume 12, Number 1, is owned by the American Orlando, Florida, prepare Coquilles St. Jacques au Gratin two ways. Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. Send email address changes 38 By Degrees to Sizzle at [email protected]. All rights reserved. Reproduction without written permission Justin Hoffman from Broadmoor Technical Center, Overland, Kansas, breaks down of the publisher is forbidden. All views and opinions the techniques for fast-packed sweet pickling. expressed in Sizzle are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of 40 International Flavors the officers, employees, contractors or members of the American Culinary Federation. Sisavath Keovilay, chef instructor, Keiser University, Sarasota, Florida, shares his experiences growing up with Vietnamese cuisine. 44 The Interview Learn how Indianapolis chef Neal Brown went from opening the city's first innovative fine-dining restaurant to launching a pizza empire.

48 The Quiz Candy Cake Read this issue? Now test your knowledge. by Tressa Wiles, director of all things 49 Last Bite baked and fried Indianapolis local food scene is growing. at Bayou Bakery, Discover Indy dining from its chefs. Arlington, Virginia. Photo by Russ Evans Photography.

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Seize This Opportunity By Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC

Hello, students, the country can get together. From get involved! Google Hangout events to Twitter chats If you are already a member, email [email protected] with your A new year is here, and the American and a Young Chefs lounge at regional Culinary Federation is always looking for questions on how to get involved. If conferences and the national convention, you are not an ACF member, please fill ways it can help culinary students and we want to make sure you have the out a membership form found on the young chefs grow and network with peers American Culinary Federation website at opportunity to meet and learn from your www.acfchefs.org/Membership. and the culinary industry. This is why we peers and the culinary industry. are working on developing a Young Chefs Look at the Worldchefs Young Chefs Club for ACF. It will be a space where Now is the time to seize the opportunity Club blog to see what young culinary to be a leader in this movement and help professionals from across the globe are students and young cooks can get together doing and connect with them. and discuss the industry they care so much grow the Young Chefs Club. Though we will about and network with companies and provide the tools, we need you–the culinary Connect with ACF Young Chefs Club on social media: organizations that are interested in the student, the young cook and the up-and- @ACFYoungChefs talent ACF’s young chefs have to offer. coming chef–to help us make this a reality. facebook.com/acfycc The Young Chefs Club is open to all Visit www.acfchefs.org/YoungChefsClub ACF_Young_Chefs_Club members of the American Culinary to learn more about the people behind this Federation ages 18-27. Its purpose is movement and sign up to learn how you can to provide opportunities for young start building a community of likeminded chefs around the U.S. to connect, share peers. I look forward to seeing what ACF’s information and promote the hospitality young chefs can accomplish together.  industry. We want to build a community Sincerely, of emerging culinary professionals to create networking opportunities with mentors and employers and highlight the Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC accomplishments of ACF’s young chefs. National President American Culinary Federation We understand that your time is limited Product Specialist Manager/Food and you are busy, so we are looking at Fanatics™ Chef alternative ways young chefs from across US Foods, Inc., Philadelphia

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News & Opportunities

young chef moves Wells graduated with an associate 2013 ACF Western Student degree in culinary arts from Utah Chef wins prestigious stage Valley University (UVU), Orem, Lyn Wells, line chef, Canyon Park Utah, in 2011, and earned a bachelor’s Café, Orem, Utah, won first-place degree in hospitality from UVU in honors at a the ment’or Young Chefs May 2014. In 2013, she was named Competition held October 2014 at American Culinary Federation Bouchon Beverly Hills in Beverly Hills, Western Region Student Chef of California. She competed against three the Year. Wells is a member of ACF other young chefs. As the winner, Wells Beehive Chapter. received $15,000 and a three-month stage at a restaurant of her choice. The competition was the second in a series of four young chef competitions that took place across the country.

Wells chose The French Laundry, Yountville, California, as the location of her stage and will begin in August 2015. “I still can’t wrap my head around it,” she said. “I’m so excited to have received this honor, and I’m especially Chefs top Forbes’ 30 under 30 excited for the opportunity to mentor at Forbes recently released its 30 under 30 one of the nation’s best restaurants with list with several young chefs in the Food one of the industry’s leaders.” & Drink category. Chefs who made the For the competition, Wells created list are: Kelvin Fernandez, executive three different preparations of beef: chef, La Marina, New York; Cosmo a pan-seared, dry-aged rib-eye with Goss, chef de cuisine, The Publican, a bone marrow glaze; a quick-smoke Chicago; Vince Griffith (pictured), above: Lyn Wells and bacon-cured rib cap; and a braised pastry chef, The Greenhouse Tavern, her winning dish riblet stuffed in potato boul. Cleveland; John Lasater, executive

6 Sizzle SPRING 15 chef, Hattie B’s Hot Chicken, Nashville, Former youth team coach J. Kevin Tennessee; Jonah Miller, owner, Huertas, Walker, CMC, director of food, New York; Stephanie Prida (pictured), service and clubhouse operations at pastry chef, Manresa, Los Gatos, Grandfather Golf & Country Club, California; and Matthew Rudofker, Linville, North Carolina, has stepped executive chef, Momofuku Ssäm Bar, down from the coach position. “I wish New York. Judges for Forbes’ 30 under the youth team all the best, as they are 30 Food & Drink category were Randall an outstanding group of young people,” Lane, editor, Forbes; Danny Meyer, said Walker. “The position of coach CEO, Union Square Hospitality Group; requires much time and dedication. It and Lee Schrager, founder, South Beach is unfortunate my current position no and New York Wine & Food festivals. To longer allows me to dedicate the time view a complete list, visit www.forbes. necessary to make the team a success. com/30under30. I am confident that Spelman and DeCambra will do a tremendous job leading the team.”

S. Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 to represent U.S. in Milan Vinson Petrillo of Zero George Street Hotel and Restaurant, Charleston, South Carolina, has been selected to represent Youth Team Supports ACF National Culinary Team the U.S. at Expo Milano 2015 in June in Milan. He will be competing against 19 ACF Culinary Youth Team USA young chefs from across the globe for the members Megan Bamford and Kristyn title of S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015. Granahan had the opportunity to Petrillo competed against nine other be front and center at a “Taste of the chefs in the regional U.S. competition Team” fundraiser held at Hammock for the honor. “As a young chef honing Dunes Club, Palm Coast, Florida, Jan. my culinary skills, partaking in the 13. Bamford oversaw a marshmallow S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition dessert bar and created made-to-order is an incredible opportunity for me to rocky road ice cream for attendees. compete against other talented chefs Granahan created and served small from different parts of the world,” he plates of oriental pork belly fried bun. said. “I am thrilled to have this once-in- The event raised more than $30,000 for a-lifetime opportunity.” the national team. Petrillo prepared a pressurized octopus left: Stafford DeCambra, In addition, new leadership has been and wagyu cheek agnolotti with chorizo CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC, and named for the youth team. Mark and octopus ink emulsion for judges Mark Spelman, CEC, AAC, Spelman, CEC, AAC, corporate who included Paul Qui of qui in Austin, will serve as manager executive chef, Helen of Troy, El Paso, Texas, Blaine Wetzel of Willows Inn and coach, respectively, for ACF's youth team. Texas, and Stafford DeCambra, CEC, on Lummi Island in Washington, above: ACF Culinary CCE, CCA, AAC, American Academy of Wylie Dufresne of Alder in New York, Youth Team USA members Chefs chair, have accepted the positions and Amanda Freitag, costar of Food Megan Bamford and of coach and manager, respectively. Network’s “Chopped.” Kristyn Granahan. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 7 amuse-bouche news & opportunities

Student Team Championship, sponsored by Vitamix® Corporation Southeast ACF North Carolina Chapter/ Asheville-Buncombe Technical Community College, Asheville, North Carolina.

Northeast ACF Epicurean Club of Boston/Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Boston, Cambridge, Massachusetts. Congrats to ACF Northeast/ Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge Southeast Student winners Bowl, sponsored by American Technical Student chefs and cooks from ACF’s Publishers Southeast and Northeast regions Southeast competed for ACF regional awards Students representing the Culinary during the 2015 ACF Regional Institute of Savannah, Savannah, Culinary Salons. Southeast competitors Georgia. went head-to-head at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Atlanta, Northeast Tucker, Georgia, Jan. 10-11. Northeast Students representing ACF Eastern region cooks competed at Erie Long Island Chefs Chapter, Riverhead, Community College, Williamsville, New York. New York, Jan. 17-18. Regional winners of ACF’s Student Chef of the Year, JWU Students turn chocolate Student Team Championship and into gold Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge A team of Johnson & Wales University Bowl will go on to compete for their (JWU) baking and pastry students, respective national titles at Cook. Craft. Frank Carrieri, of Lindenhurst, New Create. Convention & Show, Orlando, York, Kristina Browning, of Pawtucket, Florida, July 30-Aug. 3. Rhode Island, and Emily Donlon, of Clifton, Virginia, won a gold medal and Student Chef of the Year, sponsored by first place overall at Niagara College’s Custom Culinary, Inc. fifth annual Canadian Food and Wine Southeast Institute's international student pastry Elxis Dodson, student, The Art Institute competition, Decadence, held Feb. of Jacksonville, Jacksonville, Florida; 21-22, at Niagara College, Niagara line cook, Roy’s, Jacksonville Beach, Falls, Ontario. Students from Canada Florida; ACF First Coast Chapter. and the U.S. competed using just two Northeast ingredients: chocolate and ice wine. Kathryn Eurich, student, State Other participating colleges were: University of New York at Delhi, Delhi, Fleming College, Cobourg, Ontario, New York; line cook, The Landmark Niagara College and The Pennsylvania from left to right: Kristina Browning, Inn, Laconia, New York; ACF Chefs School of Culinary Arts, Lancaster, Frank Carrieri and Emily Donlon and Cooks of the Catskill Mountains. Pennsylvania. The JWU team impressed

8 Sizzle SPRING 15 the judges with a chocolate showpiece, The commission welcomed Cindy chocolate entremets, molded and Komarinski, CCC, CCE, HAAC, enrobed bonbons, and three individual Ph.D., professor, Westmoreland desserts that were created and completed County Community College, during the two-day competition. Youngwood, Pennsylvania, as the new chair, and thanked Kevin Clarke, culinary education news CCE, JD, culinary director, Colorado Mountain College Culinary Institute, Dillon, Colorado, for his dedication and service. Clarke remains on the committee as immediate past chair. Find a complete list of ACFEF- approved apprenticeship programs at http://bit.ly/1APx7tE.

In addition, the ACFEF’s Accreditation Commission met Jan. 18-19 at The Major in craft beer brewing Hotel Hershey to review and recognize Kalamazoo Valley Community 29 postsecondary programs, including College (KVCC) and Western 10 new programs, and 31 secondary Michigan University (WMU), both in programs that included 13 new programs. Kalamazoo, Michigan, are launching sustainable-brewing degrees fall Bryan Frick, CEC, AAC, corporate 2015. The programs were designed so executive chef, Nestlé Professional, students could earn an associate degree Orlando, Florida, was welcomed or a certificate at KVCC and move on to as the new chair, and Christopher obtain a bachelor’s degree at WMU. The Koetke, CEC, CCE, MBA, HAAC, curriculum was developed with input vice president, school of culinary arts, from 10 of Michigan’s top craft brewers Kendall College, Chicago, was recognized and will address some of the industry’s by the commission for his dedication pressing issues, such as water use and and service. Koetke remains on the recovery. To learn more about the commission as immediate past chair. degree program, visit WMU’s news site. View a complete list of ACFEF-accredited schools at http://bit.ly/1CjcdFc. ACFEF recognizes new During the meetings, culinary students programs and new chairs from Pennsylvania’s secondary culinary American Culinary Federation Education programs and postsecondary programs Foundation’s (ACFEF) Apprenticeship collaborated to prepare dinner for their Commission met Jan. 17 at The Hotel respective commissions. Hershey, Hershey, Pennsylvania, to review and recognize seven apprenticeship Five secondary culinary programs programs. Two initial programs earning from Carlisle High School, ACFEF recognition are Classic City Carlisle; Cumberland Perry AVTS, Chefs & Cooks Association, Athens, Mechanicsburg; Dauphin County Georgia, and Mosaic Culinary Program, Technical School, Harrisburg; Lancaster Fargo, North Dakota. County CTC, Mount Joy; and Lebanon www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 9 amuse-bouche news & opportunities

County, Lebanon, worked together on been nationally recognized for creating a five-course menu. The menu featured consistent, upscale cuisine. Last year, a seafood tower, a roast beef carving we made OpenTable’s top-100 list and station; a pasta station featuring such we felt like our hard work had finally items as crab and shrimp ravioli with a been recognized. This year, we were roasted pepper cream sauce; mesclun named in the top six. This shows that greens salad with poppy seed vinaigrette consistency in product and a quality handcrafted to order; and a dessert table staff in front and back of the house—a that included marjolaine, lemon curd majority of who come from Colorado and blueberry tarts, and chocolate and Mountain College’s culinary program— raspberry Bavarian cream. makes a real difference.”

Postsecondary culinary arts program Each year OpenTable analyzes more students from Central Pennsylvania’s than 5 million reviews of more than Community College, Harrisburg, 20,000 restaurants across the U.S. Keystone Technical Institute, Harrisburg, submitted by its verified diners to and The Pennsylvania School of Culinary compile its 100 “Best Restaurants in America” list. No. 1 for 2014 is SeaBlue Arts, Lancaster, collaborated on a five- Restaurant and Wine Bar, North Myrtle course menu that included a pulled pork/ Beach, South Carolina, and, in 2013, polenta sopas station; sushi-grade seared St. Francis Winery & Vineyards, Santa tuna; seared foie gras with brioche toast Rosa, California, topped the list. Other and Calvados marmalade; pan-seared duck restaurants on the 2014 list include breast with porcini risotto, wilted power Michelin-starred restaurants Daniel, greens, apple-smoked bacon and shiitake New York, and Le Bernardin, New York. reduction. Dessert was rum babas with crème chantilly and assorted petits fours. Ski Tip Lodge is a bed-and-breakfast renovated from an 1800s stagecoach Former ACFEF Apprentices stop. The lodge features a four-course Receive National Recognition revolving dinner menu seven days a Ski Tip Lodge in Keystone, Colorado, week. Menu options range from elk loin a sponsor house for the apprenticeship and Moroccan spice-rubbed rack of program at Colorado Mountain Colorado lamb to juniper cider-cured College (CMC) Culinary Institute, muscovy duck confit. Dillon, Colorado, was named sixth best restaurant on OpenTable Diners’ Choice “I have had the pleasure of watching “2014 Best Restaurants in America” list. Chef Baker grow and mature from a The lodge’s executive chef, Brian Baker, culinary student with a lot of raw talent is a graduate of CMC’s apprenticeship to a refined technician who has elevated his restaurant into one of the best in program, and sous chef Ashley Kegu the nation,” said Kevin Clarke, CCE, JD, graduated from the program in 2014. director of culinary education at CMC. “It’s pretty spectacular,” said Baker. “I “Sous chef Ashely Kegu is a great example started as executive chef at Ski Tip in of motivation and dedication. She has a 2004. My philosophy is that we put our natural ability to combine flavors and an pride, passion, education and energy eye for plate composition that produces above: Brian Baker into everything we do, and now we have great-tasting and visually appealing dishes.”

10 Sizzle SPRING 15 CMC has a three-year apprenticeship students. Because of the Trotter ƒƒ Justin Lambert, Louisiana program. To graduate from the Foundation’s donation, ACFEF was Culinary Institute program, apprentices must have able to award $2,500 to 10 applicants in ƒƒ Nicholas Glenn, Louisiana December 2014. The following students accumulated 4,500 hours of experience Culinary Institute at an approved sponsor house. To learn were the first to receive this scholarship. ƒ more about the program, visit http:// ƒ Mica Salter, Louisiana Culinary Institute ƒƒ Catherine Brown, White bit.ly/1BIfSwQ ƒƒ Dustin Wesley, Louisiana Mountains Community College, Culinary Institute Charlie Trotter Berlin, New Hampshire To check deadlines and apply for other scholarships awarded ƒƒ Garrett Couvillon, Louisiana Culinary ACFEF culinary scholarships, visit Charlie Trotter’s Culinary Education Institute, Baton Rouge, Louisiana www.acfchefs.org/scholarships. Foundation, established by Charlie ƒƒ Whitley Delaney, The French Pastry Trotter in 1999 with the goal to educate School, Chicago and expose young people to the culinary arts, partnered ƒƒ Amie Genovese, Le Cordon Bleu in July 2014 with the College of Culinary Arts in Las Vegas American Culinary ƒƒ Alexis Hicks, Le Cordon Bleu Federation Education College of Culinary Arts in Las Vegas Foundation (ACFEF) to award need-based ƒƒ Lahela Kaiwi, Le Cordon Bleu scholarships to culinary College of Culinary Arts in Las Vegas

2015 DISCOVER DUCK RECIPE CONTEST for culinary students Citrus Seared Duck Breast with Herb Goat Cheese WIN 4 ADDITIONAL Each student BIG CASH FINALIST PRIZES OF finalist $ receives a for your original EACH duck recipe! 500 chef’s knife set GRAND PRIZE $2,500 Plus $1,000 worth of duck products for the culinary 2014 GRAND PRIZE WINNER school of the Student Grand Prize Winner Eljesa Haxhiu Contest begins March 1, 2015. Entries must be received by June 6, 2015. Find complete contest rules and Gwinnett Technical College entry forms at www.mapleleaffarms.com/chefcontest Athens, GA slice of life paola schwartz slice of life

Paola Schwartz

age 36 education Associate degree from Southcentral Kentucky Community & Technical College (SKYCTC) Culinary Arts program, Bowling Green, Kentucky, in 2014; bachelor’s degree in communications from Universidad del Valle de Mexico, Mexico City, 2002. why I chose SKYCTC After reviewing the cost and quality of SKYCTC’s academic program, it was the best choice for me. work Garde manger at The Club at Olde Stone, Bowling Green; 4-month internship at The Sunflower Cafe, Nashville, Tennessee; Volunteer in the Office of Sustainability at Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green. most interesting lesson My experience has taught me that cost and control management are essential in the restaurant business. Sanitation and safety should be taken seriously, and the performance of every person involved in food preparation should be monitored. career plans My dream is to become a health-supportive chef, which means I will have the ability to adapt menus and recipes for people with allergies and/or food intolerances. In addition, I want to gain the experience I need to become an ACF-certified personal chef.

12 Sizzle SPRING 15 10:00 a.m. and umeboshi vinegar, homemade On arrival, I wash my hands and clear beans, saffron rice, quinoa, three and sanitize my work area. I help with tossed salads, three or more bound last-minute ingredient preparations salads, three types of hummus and for the buffet, which opens in an hour. two desserts. If needed, I also assist Some of my tasks include washing on the buffet line so customers do kale, chopping carrots and celery, not have a long wait. When I go preparing caprese salad, assembling back to the kitchen, I start to make cold foods in the buffet, and hummus for the night buffet. I begin displaying the daily soups and wraps. to discuss ideas for the dessert with the sous chef. 11:00 a.m. 2:00 p.m. It’s cleanup time again. I clear and sanitize all work areas and sweep While I think about a dessert recipe, long, busy afternoon, things have the floors. Vegetables that are in I am told to start a batch of mock been moved and boxes have been boxes are put in their appropriate chicken salad. First, I gather the left open. ingredients, then wash the celery places, and those that have to be 5:00 p.m. stored clean are soaked in water. and apples, soak the apples, steam After all the vegetables and food are tempeh, chop celery, squeeze fresh We have less than 30 minutes before put away, I am told to use what is lemon juice and measure plum the dinner rush. The sous chef asks available in the pantry and create a vinegar. To refrigerate the salad, I me to portion vegan burgers on trays. vegan soup that is, preferably, gluten- use the FIFO method to rearrange I portion, form patties and, place the free. I find a box of cabbage the area where I will place it. When burgers in the oven set the timer, and that needs to be used, and I go back to the kitchen, I am told I I then begin to help prep such main decide to make cream can decide which dessert I want to dishes as vegetarian shepherd’s pie. of cabbage soup. make tonight. 6:45 p.m. 12:30 p.m. 3:00 p.m. I help close the kitchen. I move the prep tables to sweep up the food Rush hour I decide to make vegan toffee pecan that falls on the floor between the has begun. I pudding. The restaurant slows down help the sous cracks. I mop and sanitize prep and I am able to make my dessert. chef keep areas, clean sinks and shut down After I finish, I let the pudding rest for a food warm, the equipment, except for the few minutes. The sous chef tries it and steam kale steamer in case more food will need decides it will be served on the buffet. and restock the to be heated for the buffet. buffet. The buffet 4:30 p.m. usually has two 8:00 p.m. soups, cold wraps, It is time to clean the kitchen again I clock out and I am ready to go four hot items and sanitize the thermometers used home. It has been a long day, but that are the main to test the temperature of the food a great day. I am proud of what I courses, steamed before it was served. I help organize accomplished and glad to be of help kale with sesame oil the spices and dry storage. After a to the restaurant. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 13 classical v. modern coquilles st. jacques au gratin classical v. modern oquilles St.Jacques, Scallops Day, March 12, says. “All this was to prepare or St. James scallops, or National Coquilles St. me to do killer crossovers C is a classic French Jacques Day, May 16. and reverse layups. I was able dish. Simply put, it features a to move on to techniques When Dawn Viola, chef delicate sea scallop covered that are more complex, instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in sauce duxelles and because I knew the game’s College of Culinary Arts in breadcrumbs, served in the fundamentals. Classical Orlando, Florida, began to colorful shells in which the dishes are that–fundamentals research classical recipes for scallop once lived. of the cooking game.” this article, she was looking for The history behind this something that would ease her There are several culinary classical dish predates student partner into Escoffier. lessons to gain from this recipe medieval times. The scallop “If one has never read Escoffier, for students attempting both shell is the emblem of St. it can be overwhelming,” says versions of the dish, says James the Greater and is Viola. “Constructing a recipe Viola. They will learn how to considered the badge of the from Escoffier is like a scavenger balance seasonings and make pilgrim. This is not a dish hunt. The recipe is the map sausage and classical sauces. medieval Christians would sending you on an adventure Most important, they will learn have eaten, however, they did through the book’s pages in how to properly cook scallops. take scallop shells from the search of sauces and techniques “Pay attention to your food described in the recipe.” when cooking it,” says Viola. Galicia beach at Santiago de “It talks to you and gives clues Compostela, Spain, as proof Viola’s partner, Roberto as to when it’s done.” Scallops, that they had completed Aristondo, is a student at like meat, indicate doneness the journey to pay homage Le Cordon Bleu College of by touch, and their preferred to St. James. This popular Culinary Arts in Orlando. temperature is medium-rare. scallop dish was recreated in He compares learning When this temperature has Mastering the Art of French classical cooking techniques been reached, they look Cooking (Alfred A. Knopf, to learning how to play opaque on the outside, while October 1961) by Julia Child, basketball. “First, I needed the inside will waver between Simone Beck and Louisette to learn such basic skills as translucent and opaque and be Bertholle. It is often made top: Dawn Viola pass, dribble, how to shuffle slightly springy to the touch. bottom: Roberto Aristondo to celebrate National Baked my feet and rebound,” he

14 Sizzle SPRING 15 classical modern Coquilles St. Jacques au Gratin Procini-dusted seafood sausage 1. The scallop is first poached in white wine and herbs 1. Sausage made with scallops and white fish replaces until barely opaque and then finished in the oven. the single scallop and is more cost-effective. 2. Mushroom 2 . Classic gratin, according to Escoffier, is breadcrumbs straws replace the breadcrumbs and give the recipe a with melted butter that are toasted in the oven. lighter texture and flavor. 3. Mixed microgreens tossed in 3. Sauce duxelles made with mushrooms is a defining a lemon vinaigrette replace the parsley from the classic flavor profile for the classical dish. 4. Colorful scallop recipe. 4. Mushroom beurre blanc is made from the shells hold the components of the dish and are part of poaching liquid used to cook the seafood sausage and is the presentation. a nod to the classical dish's flavor profile. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 15 classical v. modern coquilles st. jacques au gratin classical Aristondo attends culinary but continued to cook for Interpreting Escoffier’s recipe He has several tips for students school at night and is a law family and study cookbooks. was the biggest challenge. attempting the recipe on enforcement officer by day. But Before he realized that cooking When asking other chefs how their own. Be careful with the cooking has always been in his was his true passion, 9/11 they interpreted Escoffier’s amount of salt used in the blood. He is first-generation happened, and he joined the scallop recipe, Aristondo poaching liquid, as scallops Cuban-American, and both his military. He got married while received several different are naturally salty. Poaching grandfathers owned restaurants serving and was then deployed answers, from the type of should be done at a low in Miami and Hialeah, Florida. to combat zones. After five breadcrumb to use to including temperature. And when baking His earliest memories are of years of military service, he cheese. Another challenge was the final dish, ensure a crispy “helping” on the weekends by became a police officer out sea scallops’ availability. It was gratin by ignoring the impulse stacking cups, and putting away of necessity. In 2014, he got a difficult to source local shell-in to constantly check on it. plates and silverware, or waking chance to go culinary school, scallops during winter. up at 3 a.m. to help his “Papa and he has never looked back. For students who want to Martin” make chicharrón with He did not encounter big put their spin on the classic pork belly and black beans. He says he had never heard of problems with the techniques recipe, he suggests using At age 6, he ordered his first Coquilles St. Jacques, but once of the recipe, but a point of minimal breadcrumbs to shrimp enchilada. By age he tried it, he was impressed concern for Aristondo was showcase the scallop. “I 12, he was learning the with its flavor. “It was rich, overcooking the scallops, as felt the scallop should be fundamentals of cooking such but still left you with room for the recipe calls for them to on exhibit and not hiding items as rice, steak and chicken more,” he says. His favorite be cooked twice in different under the gratin, but instead, from his grandmother. part of the dish’s preparation applications. The dish became highlighted by it.”  was learning how to make challenging for him when he After high school, Aristondo sauce duxelles. “I think it is a began to assemble it in the shell. got lost on his career path. He wonderful way to add another It was the first time he had ever couldn’t afford to go to school, level of flavor to dishes.” plated a dish such as this.

Classical St. Jacques scallops. Shallow poach over minced onion and shallot; cook Gratin medium-low heat until scallops 3 minutes. Stir in mushrooms; Ingredients: au Gratin just reach opaque, about 6 add salt and pepper. Cook, 2 T. white wine, divided Yield: 4 servings minutes. stirring occasionally, until soft Sliced mushrooms 3 . Remove scallops from heat; set and liquid has evaporated. 1 cup fine breadcrumbs, divided Scallops 4 T. unsalted butter, melted Ingredients: aside. Reserve poaching liquid. 3 . Season with salt and pepper; stir 1 t. fine chopped flat leaf parsley 4 fresh in-shell scallops in parsley. Dry duxelles Lemon wedges ½ cup white wine Ingredients: Sauce duxelles ½ cup water Method: 16 oz. medium button mushrooms, Ingredients: ½ cup onion, sliced 1 . Preheat oven to 400°F. Thick slice cleaned, stems removed, divided Poaching liquid from scallops 3 parsley stems 3 T. unsalted butter ½ cup mushroom liquor scallops; chop coral. Coat each 1 small sprig fresh thyme 3 T. olive oil 1 T. shallot, minced scallop shell with sauce duxelles ½ fresh bay leaf 1 T. onion, minced 1 T. demi-glace and ½ t. white wine. pinch kosher salt 1 T. shallot, minced 1 t. tomato puree 2 . Place sliced scallop and coral 3 whole peppercorns Salt and pepper to taste dry duxelles on top of sauce; surround with Method: 1 t. flat leaf parsley, chopped 1 t. flat leaf parsley, chopped mushroom slices. Cover with 1 . Clean outside of shells. Method: Method: sauce duxelles. Sprinkle with Remove scallops, including 1 . Thinly slice four mushrooms; set 1 . In small saucepan, combine breadcrumbs; cover with melted coral and beard; rinse to aside. Finely chop remaining reserved poaching liquid, butter. Place in oven; bake until remove debris. Set aside. Scrub mushrooms. Place in cheesecloth mushroom liquor, shallot, demi- breadcrumbs are golden and inside of shells; set aside. or clean towel; squeeze to remove glace, tomato puree and dry mushrooms cooked. 2 . In small pan, combine wine, excess moisture. duxelles. Simmer 5 minutes. 3 . Remove from oven; sprinkle water, onion, parsley, thyme, bay 2 . In large saute pan, heat butter 2 . Remove from heat; stir in with lemon juice and chopped leaf, salt and peppercorns; add and oil over medium heat. Add parsley. Reserve. parsley. Serve immediately.

16 Sizzle SPRING 15 classical v. modern coquilles st. jacques au gratin modern Dawn Viola didn’t start her career experience includes executive to become a chef and teach others fish, chefs will be able to stretch in the culinary industry. With a sous chef for catering at Le Coq how to cook. the scallop season longer and Au Vin, Orlando, and executive keep costs down. The mushroom bachelor’s degree in fine arts from Coquilles St. Jacques was intriguing the University of Massachusetts chef at Second Harvest Food beurre blanc, along with the to Viola because there are various Dartmouth, she worked in Bank of Central Florida, Orlando. porcini dust and mushroom interpretations of the dish. the advertising industry for Now she is pursuing a master’s straws, introduce the flavors Escoffier’s recipes are different from more than a decade. She then degree in holistic nutrition. found in the classic duxelles. what is served in restaurants. She discovered that she had multiple The lemon-dressed microgreens Viola grew up in a big Italian had prepared a version of the dish food allergies and switched her provide acid and replace the family where food was a part of as a culinary student and had eaten career focus. She enrolled in original recipe’s chopped parsley. everything. Her favorite memory versions as a teenager, but it was culinary school and earned a The mushroom straws replace as a child was waking up on always made with bay scallops, the diploma in culinary management the texture of the breadcrumbs. Sunday to the smell of gravy, which sauce contained either cream or from Valencia College, Orlando. for Italians is red tomato sauce cheese, and the scallop’s coral was Viola’s advice for students, or She then applied her experience with meatballs, sausage and/or anyone creating a modern version not included in the dish. The classic to writing and marketing in the braciola, “I would immediately of a classical recipe, is to always gratin recipe uses sauce duxelles and culinary industry, and has written head to the stove, tear Italian bread stay true to either the flavor toasted breadcrumbs with butter. and tested recipes for Food into chunks, stand on my tiptoes profile or the recipe’s technique. Network and such companies and dunk the bread in the pot for Viola’s modern version stays true Without at least one of those as Applegate Farms and Jamie breakfast,” she says. She always had to Escoffier’s original flavors and components incorporated into Oliver’s Food Revolution. She a passion for cooking. When she textures, but it is lighter and cost- the modern version, you’ve has also ghost authored several discovered her food allergies that effective. By creating seafood deviated too far and created a cookbooks for chefs. Viola’s passion became the catalyst for her sausage with scallops and white brand-new recipe, she says. 

Procini-dusted 2 . In food processor, place fish, Mushroom beurre blanc Mushroom straws scallops, salt, pepper, fennel, Ingredients: Ingredients: seafood sausage parsley and panade; blend ¼ cup poaching liquid 16 oz. expeller-pressed coconut oil, Yield: 4 servings smooth. Transfer mixture to 1 T. white wine vinegar or other neutral oil, for frying plastic wrap. 1 small shallot, minced ½ lb. large button mushrooms, Boudin blanc 3 . Roll in 2-inch tight log; secure 8 T. unsalted butter, divided cleaned, julienned Ingredients: ends with kitchen twine. Salt to taste Salt to taste 1 egg white Refrigerate until firm, about 10 1 cup cornstarch, divided Method: 1 ½ oz. heavy cream minutes. 1 egg, beaten 1 slice white bread, crust removed 4 . In medium sautoir, add 1 . Reduce poaching liquid to Method: 4 oz. white fish fillets or trimmings mushroom liquor, fish fumet, about ¼ cup. 1 . In small saucepan, heat 2 (U/20) scallops wine, shallot, celery leaves 2 . Strain; transfer to small saucepan. coconut oil to 350°F. Season ¼ t. kosher salt and thyme. Place seafood log Add vinegar and shallot; bring Pinch white pepper mushrooms with salt. in fumet mixture. Cover with to a boil. Stirring occasionally, 1 T. fennel, chopped 2 . Divide cornstarch evenly cartouche; place pan in oven. reduce to 1 T., about 6 minutes. 1 T. parsley, chopped between two bowls. Dredge Shallow poach 25 minutes. 3 . Strain mixture. Return liquid to 1 ½ cups mushroom liquor seasoned mushrooms in 5 . Remove pan from oven; remove pan reduce heat to low; whisk in ¼ cup fish fumet cornstarch, egg and second sausage from pan. Set aside; cool butter, 1 T. at a time, until mixture 2 T. white wine 10 minutes. Unwrap sausage; slice is thick. Remove from heat. Keep cornstarch bowl. 1 T. minced shallot into 1-inch thick rounds. Lightly warm until ready for service. 3 . Lower into hot oil; fry until crisp, 1 bunch celery leaves about 1 minute. Remove from oil 1 sprig fresh thyme dredge cut sides of sausage in porcini dust; set aside. Microgreens to paper-towel-lined sheet pan; 3 T. dried porcini dust Ingredients: 6 . In medium saute pan over sprinkle with salt. 2 T. clarified butter ½ cup assorted microgreens medium, heat clarified butter Salt and white pepper to taste Olive oil to taste Assembly until shimmering. Add sausage Fresh lemon juice to taste 1 . Place 1 T. beurre blanc in center Method: rounds. Cook 1 minute, until Salt and pepper to taste of appetizer plate. 1 . Preheat oven to 325°F. Prepare a golden-brown. Gently turn; brown 2 . Place sausage on top. buttered cartouche, set aside. In Method: second side; salt and pepper 3 . Top with dressed microgreens small bowl, whisk egg white and 1 . In small bowl, dress greens with to taste. and mushroom straws. cream. Press bread into cream 7 . Remove sausage from pan. Keep olive oil, lemon, salt and pepper mixture to make panade, set aside. warm until ready for service. right before plating.

18 Sizzle SPRING 15

Pop-up Restaurants Benefit Everyone

Well-planned and executed single dinner or series provide the opportunity for chefs to build a menu, a reputation and a following. // By Jody Shee

magine launching your culinary career on a helipad next to a helicopter serving chili prawns with candied walnuts, hearts of palm and scallions. You plate Brussels sprouts with chili, lime and mint while 20 guests talk, communal-style, Iat white-tablecloth covered folding tables and covered folding chairs. These are the type of pop-up restaurant experiences that keeps chefs energized and foodies entertained.

Executive chef Gregory Gourdet, who actually has chili prawns and Brussels sprouts on the menu at his restaurant, Departure Restaurant + Lounge, Portland, Oregon, remembers his first experience eating at a pop-up restaurant. “It was a monthly lunch pop-up set up in restaurants around town with an amazing line of ramen with different types of broth and garnishes,” he says. That pop-up endeavor spawned two brick-and-mortar Portland restaurants: Boke Bowl East and Boke Bowl West.

Gourdet considers Portland a food-focused town with many young chefs itching to branch off and do different things—him included. “Pop-up” is a term bestowed on the events that result, he says. The dining experiences usually are held at an existing restaurant during its normal off-hours, at a random space or somewhere out in a field.

“The ‘pop-up’ term is thrown around a lot, and some would argue that it’s lost its meaning,” Gourdet says. “But it’s a vehicle for creativity—a way for chefs to have another outlet.” Some chefs want to expand beyond their four walls, experiment with an alternate concept or work with different ingredients. Preparations are nearly complete for a Dinner Lab pop-up event in a Los Angeles warehouse. Photo courtesy of Dinner Lab Lab

Dinner

of

Pop-up pointer: Get a group of friends Courtesy and do a pop-up on campus. Take over a “One reason pop-ups have taken off the into, it also allows them to partner with campus cooking facility way they have is that chefs are just like a friend or someone they have always for the event as a project. the people they are cooking for. They are wanted to work with. It provides the — Andrew Freeman, millennials who want the opportunity opportunity to get true feedback on a president, Andrew to experience new and different things,” concept’s viability before making a big Freeman & Co., San investment. Finally, from a marketing Francisco. says Andrew Freeman, president of San Francisco-based Andrew Freeman standpoint, it’s a chance to invite media and & Co., restaurant and hospitality create buzz around a new project, he says. consultants. Guests get to be part of the During recent colder, slower months, chef’s experiment. Gourdet conducted a monthly Sunday Pop-ups will be around as long as young night pop-up he called his compass aspiring chefs find spaces that will help dinner series. He featured food from them find their voice, says John Manion, such parts of the world as China, Japan and Haiti. While he used his normal chef/owner of Chicago’s La Sirena kitchen crew to help, for his “Silk Road” Clandestina. “That’s always going to dinner he worked with local seafood chef happen. It’s always happened, but it’s Ken Norris to highlight fish from such been popularized recently, especially locales along the Silk Road as China, with social media.” India, Greece and North Africa. Also working with his Portland fish purveyor guiding Flying Fish, Co., the dishes combined Gourdet’s Asian cuisine leanings with circumstances Norris’ Mediterranean sensibilities. Freeman sees several pop-up purposes. Besides allowing chefs to expand beyond To advertise the dinner series, Gourdet the restaurant concepts they are locked sent out Facebook invites, posted

22 Sizzle SPRING 15 Pop-up pointer: Before contemplating a pop-up, do some recipe testing. Be well prepared, and don’t make diners sit information on the restaurant website, Manion reminisces, “I have a friend for a long time while you used Instagram and pitched the series to who had a pop-up bar in an elevator. try to figure things out. local writers. “We got great buzz,” he says. Sometimes things are more funny — Gregory Gourdet, than profitable.” executive chef, Departure Manion was a chef who left his job to Restaurant + Lounge, open his dream restaurant. Then, at the Portland, Oregon. last minute, the restaurant fell through. consider the He had the concept and a team ready to challenges go when the deal fell apart. “It was really For those planning on a pop-up with a a blow. We had to do something. I knew goal of launching a restaurant, don’t count a woman who owned a cafe that was on pop-ups to raise funds for a brick-and- only open for breakfast and lunch,” he mortar location. “You have to understand says. She agreed to allow him to use her the business side of it. Your margins won’t spot as a pop-up location for two nights be great buying product for one or two in August 2011. nights,” Manion says. “Think of what you will pay the restaurant owner. Then you “The air conditioning wasn’t amazing,” need insurance. It’s a real cost.” he says. To match the hot atmosphere, he put together a “beachy Brazilian” menu, There’s no way to define the challenges with a friend playing appropriate music. and solutions across the board, as every It sold out. All agreed to do it again, and pop-up situation is different. The space eventually he made a deal to go into the can cause issues, as can the timing. space as a majority partner. Thus, La “When we did it, we were in and out Sirena Clandestina was born, serving twice. I didn’t know (the owner’s) top: This Dinner Lab pop-up event was hosted in a Mardi Gras Brazilian fare. The “clandestine” reference equipment. These are things you have to float warehouse in New Orleans. is a nod to its secret pop-up roots. think about,” he says. Photo by Reaux Photo www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 23 24 a lotofquestions. appreciated. Then,ask Free laborisalways your area andvolunteer. dinners are happeningin Figure outwhere pop-up Pop-up pointer: chef/owner Sirena of La Clandestina, Chicago. — John Manion, followers. It’s market tested.” Younot such ashotinthedark. have you doopenwhen arestaurant, it’s concept forthemarket, Song says. “So and demonstrate you have aviable you to can start create acustomer base you don’t get fromWhile pop-ups, rich be afirst process,” he says. and your logo. identity build That could can get moneyto theprocess start to website for aplanned restaurant. “You ofagraphichiring designer to create a series, youup may beable the to fund He suggests that from asuccessful pop- andAugust September 2014. Thursday nightsfrom 10 p.m. a.m.to 1 in quiet native Korean foodontypically bar by presenting amenu focused onhis ham inhis and hybrid oystera pop-up inSan Francisco.Rocks He conducted executive chefat Hog Song, Robin & a restaurant, butto gain says visibility, fund is not to ofapop-up The purpose “But that wasn’t thepoint,” hesays. the help, hedidn’t make alotofmoney, inher restaurant.pop-up After he paid all Manion paid theowner aflat fee a to hold new ideas orwork creatively outside “We aplatform chefs give to beta test operates and counting. in21cities environment. inapop-up chefs It now in October 2012to showcase emerging New Orleans-based Dinner launched Lab that lessenopportunities thechallenges. Fortunately, there are pop-up easiest entry happen,” headvises. that. But beprepared foranything to You feedback. toup critical may need hoped they would. You open yourself people don’t enjoy itasmuch asyou comes your if fooddoesn’t resonate and the seats.fill challenge“A secondary itcould bedifficult to a following, income. Additionally, you if don’t have a cost fordisplacing therestaurant’s restaurant,functioning there may be choose to inan already dothepop-up required arestaurant. to run If you tables and chairswithout oreverything says, you if go especially into aspace challenges to consider, Freeman Pop-up restaurants have logistical Sizzle SPRING 15

Courtesy of Dinner Lab www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com If it’sLab agood theDinner chefde fit, at an event to see theyare if interested. He encourages students to culinary stage possible, Stithem says. make thefeedback ascomprehensive as a few additional questions inorder to receivealso that afollow-up asks survey to add comments.opportunity They and restaurant an with worthiness, rateguests each forcreativity, dish taste Using card onthedinner table, asurvey to learn from thefeedback. opportunity of thebiggest advantages the is forchefs and online attacha form a resume. One desire who Chefs to out participate fill thedetails. handles all warehouse. staff in eachcity Afull-time and aMardi Grasgymnasium float car exotic dealership, ring, boxing school secret location. Some were ahelipad, are always held inan unconventional five-courseup dinner events,which tickets to thesometimes weekly pop- to purchasethe opportunity $50-$60 paythe 21cities amembership fee for organization. Consumers ineach of The companyis amember-based staff execute it at thechosen site. together themenu and helps Dinner Lab Stithem says. Thechefsimply puts procurement kitchens,” and commissary thebackend all handle staffing, sourcing, “We risk. in mindto little test itwith for them aconcept orany chefwith Dinner provides theopportunity Lab else’s creative little menu with input. work nightwho after night on someone participants are cooks orline sous chefs Stithem, director ofcuration. Sometimes the confines ofa restaurant,” says Byron menu and becoming afeatured chef. eventually putting together their own ofstudents and opens thepossibility puts students infront ofmany chefs work events. future Theopportunity might inthat hirecuisine city them to fr and writes theblogwww.sheefood.com. than 20years offood-writing experience Jody Shee, an

Courtesy of Dinner Lab eelance writer andeditor, hasmore O lathe, Kansas-based  too manymenuofferings. overspend yourselfwith more comfortable.Don’t execute untilyoubecome choose somethingeasyto When gettingstarted, Pop-up pointer: Photo by ReauxPhoto Lab pop-upevent inNew Orleans. below: DinersmingleataDinner Photo by Ryan Green event inNashville, Tennessee. his food ataDinnerLabpop-up guests andshares thestory behind opposite: Kwame Onwuachi greets executive chef, Hog & Rocks, SanRocks, Francisco. — Robin Song, i NExt crowdfunding ss u e

25 A Sea of Change

Chefs across the nation are raising awareness of underutilized seafood with unique recipes and creative dinners.

By Rob Benes

he global fishing fleet operates culinary advantages at 2.5 times the sustainable Ransom explains there are three level, and 85 percent of the T culinary advantages to using world’s fisheries are either fully exploited, underutilized seafood. First, chefs are overexploited or have collapsed, not only supporting sustainability, according to the Monterey Bay Aquarium but they are creating a new market for Seafood Watch, Monterey, California. the fishing industry by using bycatch Overfishing continues to bring new seafood. Next, unusual seafood regulations for catching such fish as tastes good, and it brings attention grouper, tuna, marlin and others. With to a restaurant’s culinary program by these changes, fishmongers are further presenting a new dining experience for exploring oceans, rivers and streams to guests. Finally, underutilized seafood offer restaurants unusual catches. There’s provides new challenges for culinary teams to learn how to butcher and a growing appreciation by chefs, as well clean, as well as which cooking methods as guests, for underutilized seafood, and work best for different types of seafood. it’s changing menus across the country. on menus Paul Prudhomme’s blackened redfish, a favorite at his French Quarter restaurant K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen, New Orleans, was imitated in restaurants across the U.S. Before long, Louisiana redfish were being caught and shipped around the country. Overexploitation led to a ban on commercial fishing of redfish in 1988, and many chefs turned to farm-raised or frozen redfish sourced from outside Louisiana.

Anthony Scanio, executive chef, Emeril’s Delmonico, New Orleans, keeps the tradition of blackened fish on the menu, but he now uses black drum instead Lesser-known seafood, often thrown of overfished red drum, or redfish, in back because of lack of interest or preparing Louisiana drum meunière. misunderstanding, are actually flavorful, Black drum is a saltwater fish and similar sustainable substitutes for popular and at- to red drum in taste and texture. He risk fish. “Bycatch seafood is a welcomed could use farm-raised redfish from Texas, catch, and something that now is sought but it costs about $14 per pound. after by both restaurants and consumers,” says Michael Ransom, executive chef, New England has relied on cod for B&O Brasserie, Baltimore. years. A staple fish that was always

28 Sizzle SPRING 15 seafood guide Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch, Monterey Bay, California, provides an online sustainable seafood search. The tool makes recommendations on which seafood to buy or avoid and provides help finding around, it is no longer easy to get. Chefs He cleans it by cutting just below the seafood that are fished or farmed in ways that have less now rely on other species, such as eyes to free the legs, cutting out the little impact on the environment. hake, redfish and weakfish. “You need beak, removing the icky stuff in the head There is a downloadable guide to have a mixture of seafood on your and taking out the cuttle bone, which is a on recommendations, where seafood items are rated as “Best menu,” says Jeremy Sewall, executive hard centerpiece of cartilage. Cuttlefish, Choices,” “Good Alternatives” chef/owner, Lineage, Brookline, like squid, must be cooked in one of two or “Avoid.” It is available as an ways, because its muscles are dense with app that provides up-to-date Massachusetts, and Island Creek Oyster recommendations for ocean- Bar and Row 34, both in Boston. “It enormous amounts of connective tissue: friendly seafood and sushi. (www. seafoodwatch.org needs to be balanced and a mix of flash fry the legs and body, which are ) traditional and nontraditional, being typically cut into rings, or stew it for hours. mindful of sustainability.” opposite top: Derek Wagner, executive Ransom uses blue catfish from the chef/owner, Nick's on Broadway, Pablo Estrada, executive chef/owner, Chesapeake Bay, which gets confused Providence, Rhode Island, seasons brandade at a Chefs Collaborative trash Fattoria e Mare, Burlingame, California, with channel catfish. It is a bottom feeder, but has a clean, fresh flavor. This species' fish dinner in Boston, March 2013. likes the challenge that comes from Photo by Larry Leibowitz firm texture holds up to long cooking working with nontraditional seafood. opposite bottom: Louisiana drum meunière times and is perfect for stews. Blue catfish uses black drum paired with artichoke, “It’s educational and satisfying when is also good for smoking. When smoked, fingerling potatoes, local blue crabmeat, you achieve success,” he says. A type of it’s a firm fillet that emulates a smoked arugula and grape tomatoes. Courtesy of seafood that challenges him is cuttlefish, Emeril’s Delmonico, New Orleans ham hock. Ransom uses it in greens and which he serves with black squid left: Ben Polligner, executive chef, stews to impart a Southern smoky taste. Oceana, New York, supports local ink over polenta. It’s not a fish, but a oyster farmers by featuring New York relative of squid and octopus found in Ben Pollinger, executive chef, Oceana, raised oysters, such as Widows Hole, the Mediterranean and Southeast Asia. New York, offers underutilized seafood Fishers Island and great southern bay. Photo by Paul Johnson It tastes like a cross between them, with as appetizers that include black sea bass right: Cuttlefish served with black squid a fuller flavor than calamari but not as crudo and fluke tartare and entrees such ink over polenta. rich as octopus. as skate wing and whole-roasted dorade. Photo by Pablo Estrada www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 29 Nontraditional fish have strong Collaborative’s 2011 Sustainable awareness on a regional level, but not on Food Summit in New Orleans. Chefs a national level. For example, walleye pike Collaborative, a national nonprofit is found throughout restaurants in the founded in 1993 by a group of upper Midwest, cobia is most prevalent visionaries who include Rick Bayless, in Florida and on the Eastern seaboard Nobu Matsuhisa and Alice Waters, is on and a variety of trawl-caught rockfish are a mission to change people’s perception found on the West Coast. “Chefs should about underappreciated fish. consider using seafood not found in “Chefs Collaborative’s trash fish their parts of the country,” says Pollinger, dinners are unique because they were “because those items will be viewed as created and implemented by teams new to your kitchen and guests.” of inspired chefs,” says Sara Brito, above: Trash fish canape: smoked dogfish pâté, chilies, Pollinger helps support local oyster executive director. “Through these mustard on a whole-grain farmers by featuring New York raised dinners, we’ve seen dozens of chefs cracker was served at the oysters, such as Naked Cowboy® Oysters, collaborate in kitchens across the Chefs Collaborative trash fish country to feature undervalued seafood dinner in Boston, March 2014. Widow's Hole, Fishers Island and great Courtesy of 80 Thoreau, southern bay. “Using underutilized species on their menus.” Concord, Massachusetts. seafood does not always mean those that opposite top: Sign at a The first dinner was held March 10, are a result of bycatch,” he says. Chefs Collaborative trash fish 2013, at executive chef/co-owner dinner in Boston, March 2013. Michael Leviton’s Area Four in opposite right: Chefs trash fish dinners Cambridge, Massachusetts. Nine chefs Collaborative trash fish dinner signage. Trash fish dinners were dreamed teamed up to serve a multicourse, Photos by Alisha W. Fowler up by member chefs during Chefs family style meal that featured

30 Sizzle SPRING 15 NExt issue Seven chefs teamed up at Border pickling Grill Las Vegas July 22, 2013. Menu highlights included Rick Moonen’s bycatch bouillabaisse, sea robin ceviche and surf-clam sashimi.

Monday, May 20th, 2013 at 6:00 pm “By featuring so-called “trash fish” on BIG JONES, 5347 N CLARK STREET, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS TICKETS $125 • CHEFSCOLLABORATIVE.ORG/EVENTS their menus, chefs are building awareness

MULTI-COURSE • BEER, WINE, AND SPIRITS INCLUDED of and demand for more sustainable seafood options,” Brito says. “Through the dinners, chefs and culinary professionals are shining a spotlight on the need to diversify our seafood choices and helping to sustain fishing communities.”

November 12, 2013, Cathy Whims, chef/ owner of Nostrana and Oven & Shaker, both in Portland, Oregon, cooked with wolf eel, pacific skate wing and sand dabs. Local artists and chefs also teamed up to underappreciated seafood species such recommended reading auction off trash fish art and special meals. School of Fish (Gallery Books, 2014). as monkfish, sea robin and blood clams. Photo courtesy of Gallery Books.

“The inaugural trash fish dinner sold June 5, 2014, at Lowndes Grove This cookbook by Ben Pollinger, executive chef, Oceana, New York, out quickly,” says Brito, “and we soon Plantation, Charleston, South Carolina, a star lineup of local chefs treated claims to be the all-encompassing found member chefs collaborating to culinary education on cooking plan dinners in other U.S. cities. In diners to underappreciated fish such seafood. With more than 100 recipes as amberjack, white grunt, little tunny, organized by practices from easiest 2013 and 2014, we took trash fish on to most advanced, techniques for the road to Las Vegas, Chicago, Los Spanish mackerel and jolthead porgy. preparing underutilized fish such as Angeles, Portland, Denver, Sarasota sea robin are included. Additional Brito says the dinners are a powerful features include a guide to unusual and Charleston.” tool for creating change in the seafood ingredients and step-by-step photos with the recipes. In Chicago, 10 chefs teamed up at chef/ industry. “When chefs help create owner Paul Fehribach’s Big Jones in May a market for undervalued seafood, 2013. Working with Chefs Collaborative’s they help take pressure off overfished environmental partners at Shedd species, sustain fishing communities Aquarium in Chicago and Monterey and build demand for more sustainable Bay Aquarium, chefs served up invasive seafood options. We’re excited to see species that included Asian carp, rainbow this dinner series evolve over time.” smelt, sea speckled trout and bluefish. To learn more about Chefs Collaborative, “When we diversify and balance what visit www.chefscollaborative.org.  we take from the ocean, we can enjoy Rob Benes, a Chicago-based journalist, new delights while preserving old ones,” has 11 years of experience writing about says Fehribach, a Chefs Collaborative chefs, food, wine and spirits for trade, board member . educational and consumer publications. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 31

Let Them Decorate Cake Cake decorating is more than just a hobby. Pastry chefs with artistic talent, patience and a little imagination can make a living doing something they love.

By Suzanne Hall

um paste, buttercream and royal icing are the tools. Imagination, patience and perseverance are the traits. Throw in some artistic talent, the ability to be precise and a knack for working with people, and you G have the makings of a successful cake decorator. Once established, there are opportunities to run your own business, teach amateurs and pros, write books or host your own TV show.

Gail Wilson and Bill Schneider are co-owners of The Cake Shop of San Jose in Jacksonville, Florida. Wilson got interested in designing cakes watching her mother bake for family and friends. After attending culinary school, she worked in a restaurant before opening the bakery. In addition to working in the shop, she teaches beginning cake decorating at Florida State College at Jacksonville. For Schneider, cake decorating was a second career and a natural extension of his talents as a floral designer. He briefly decorated cakes at a supermarket before joining Wilson as a partner. He’s known for lifelike gum paste creations that often are mistaken for flowers. Karen Portaleo earned a mention on TV or cable. A must-take course is “The Today Show” website for her cake baking. Unless a cake is being designed bust of actress Maggie Smith portraying just for show, artistic beauty doesn’t Violet Crawley, Dowager Countess of mean much if the cake doesn’t taste Grantham, in PBS’s “Downton Abbey.” good. Portaleo believes that culinary Portaleo teaches classes for novices and students going into cake decorating pros throughout the world. have an advantage over those who are self-taught. “They have learned how to Kerry Vincent, who got into cake bake. That gives them independence decorating “by accident, as a favor to and freedom,” she says. She learned to a friend,” is the author of Romantic bake on her own while working part Wedding Cakes, (Merehurst Ltd., January time at Highland Bakery in Atlanta. The 2002), a Food Network Challenge shop still uses her specifications to bake judge, host of the network’s “Save My the layers she decorates, and when she’s Bakery” and cofounder/director of the traveling, she often bakes her own. Oklahoma State Sugar Art Show, Tulsa, Oklahoma. Now, she only creates cakes Once those perfect layers are made, it’s for TV and magazines. time to decorate them. Culinary arts programs often offer several courses There are numerous possibilities for that teach students to do just that. talented cake artists; however, there are At Kendall College in Chicago, Erika lessons to learn before realizing them. Webb, CEPC, CHE, chef-instructor, previous spread: Candy Culinary schools provide cake- teaches basic cake decorating, Cake by Tressa Wiles, decorating courses that can pave the wedding cakes, gum paste and sugars director of all things baked way to jobs with supermarkets, Dairy and sugar confection classes. The and fried at Bayou Bakery, Arlington, Virginia. Photo by Queen venues, gourmet bakeries and Institute of Culinary Education in Russ Evans Photography. caterers, as well as appearances on local New York offers a 16-week program

34 Sizzle SPRING 15 tips for aspiring cake designers in techniques and art of professional Art galleries, museums, jewelry and ƒƒ Learn how to bake. ƒƒ Learn the basics of buttercream. cake decorating. Other schools offer nature all provide inspiration for the ƒƒ Take classes in school and from individuals. variations of these classes. cake artist. ƒƒ Have a vision of what you want to be and do. ƒƒ Put your thumbprint on something Don’t stop there, Tressa Wiles urges. That’s where it pays to have an unique to you. ƒƒ Look for inspiration everywhere. Wiles, who as a child loved baking active imagination, Wilson believes. ƒƒ Mingle online or in person with other but never realized she could make a “Everywhere you look, you should cake designers. career out of it, is the director of all think, I can put that on a cake,” she says. ƒƒ The role of repetition is huge in this business. Practice, practice, practice. things baked and fried at Bayou Bakery You don’t have to be an accomplished in Arlington, Virginia. She earned an artist to be a successful cake decorator, spread, left to bottom: 1. Kerri Vincent associate degree in pastry/baking arts is host of Food Network's "Save My but most successful cake decorators from Stratford University, Falls Church, Bakery," author of Romantic Wedding agree it’s good to have some art Cakes and cofounder/director of the Virginia. Wiles bakes and decorates background or talent. Webb has an Oklahoma State Sugar Art Show, Tulsa, wedding and other specialty cakes on Oklahoma. Courtesy of Kerri Vincent. associate degree in culinary arts from the side. She recommends that students 2. Gail Wilson and Bill Schneider Triton College, River Grove, Illinois, working in their shop, The Cake Shop read books and magazines on cake and a certificate in chocolate showpieces of San Jose, Jacksonville, Florida. decorating, go online to get ideas and and candies from The French Pastry Courtesy of The Cake Shop of San Jose. learn techniques, and work or volunteer 3. A portrait of Karen Portaleo, a cake School, Chicago. She worked under in a bakery that does wedding or other decorator and chocolate artist based pastry chef En Ming Hsu at the Ritz- in Atlanta. 4. Portaleo working on a specialty cakes. Carlton Chicago, and also worked in cake for the cast and crew of AMC's "The Walking Dead." 5. Bugs sculpted Vincent, who lived in several countries other Chicago restaurants. She enhanced out of white chocolate for an episode before moving to the United States, her knowledge of cake decorating and of "Bizarre Foods" on the Travel Channel. was among the first to promote cake gum paste techniques at Le Royale Icing, 3, 4 and 5 Courtesy of Karen Portaleo. 6. Erika Webb teaches cake decorating designing as a true art form. She urges a Chicago cake shop. She believes her and sugar confection classes at future cake designers to get out and students who have an art background or Kendall College in Chicago. see as much of the world as they can. talent tend to pick up cake decorating Courtesy of Erika Webb. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 35 more naturally than others. She also and work with it. Then move onto notes that students who have worked buttercream. Get a feel for different in contracting or construction, where mediums.” She also notes that, like ice, precision is important, do well. That buttercream, which she often works makes sense to Vincent, who believes with frozen, melts. “You have to learn professional that creating a cake is like architecture. to work quickly.” development You have to know how to stack the layers The International Cake Portaleo agrees that aspiring cake Exploration Societé (ICES) holds to build the cake. meetings and shows throughout decorators need to invest in the future the United States and the Wiles dabbles in abstract painting. and not be afraid to ruin things as they world. Members can learn of Schneider took art classes in high learn. She suggests that novices buy international activities as close as Canada and as far away as Sri school and considers himself artistic. a bucket of fondant or chocolate and Lanka. The website lists classes So does Becky Wortman, CEPC, of make things by rolling it over pots on a variety of topics held across the world. For information on Clayton, Washington, owner of Imagine and pans to get the feel of it and get membership, visit www.ices.org. Something Sweet. She is a cake sculptor comfortable with it. Like many cake ortman W

Becky

of

Courtesy

who works mostly in buttercream to decorators, culinary students can learn create centerpieces. She also makes a lot on their own. left: Becky Wortman leads a hands-on wedding and specialty cakes. “I am an workshop at the 2014 ACF National In addition to needing the patience to Convention, Kansas City, Missouri. artist who sees food differently than practice and make mistakes, future cake right: "Frozen Woman" was a hand- others,” she says. “I see it as an art form.” sculpted buttercream centerpiece designers need to have people skills. with sugar accent pieces made for Wortman and other cake designers While some cake designers, because Icing Smiles' 2014 Buttercream Ball held in Savage, Maryland. Photos suggest that practice is the way to hone of their years in the business and courtesy of Becky Wortman. skills. “And don’t be cheap about it,” reputation, have, like Vincent, the luxury opposite from top: 1. Tressa Wiles, says Wortman, who demonstrated of creating only what they want to create, director of all things baked and fried her skills at the 2014 ACF National most have customers with their own at Bayou Bakery. 2. Pink and brown cake by Tressa Wiles. Convention in Kansas City, Missouri. ideas. They include everyone from brides Photos courtesy of Tressa Wiles. “Buy a 50-pound block of lard to corporate meeting planners.

36 Sizzle SPRING 15 NExt issue recipe tester When working directly with the public in a bakery, as do Wilson and Schneider, or on your own, like Wiles, you have to please customers. It is important to get a feel for what type of person the customer is and the nature of the event. In addition, it is important to be flexible and understanding. “It takes a certain kind of personality to interact with customers. When you do it successfully, you’ll have a customer for life,” Wilson says. “Most customers have an idea of what they want, but the designer needs to offer suggestions and advice.” Cake designers have to work with customers to help them make choices that suit their event and budget. get more for their work than those in Some people will come in with a smaller, rural areas. And, of course, photograph of a cake they want experience pays off in dollars. reproduced. When that happened to “You can make a living decorating Portaleo, she knew her job was to please cakes, and it’s better than it used to be,” the customer. However, she always Portaleo says. Food Network shows and tried to introduce special touches to other TV programs have introduced make the project her own. When cake people to over-the-top sculpted and decorators reproduce someone else’s elaborately decorated cakes. “People work, they need to be careful to give realize they can have those things, but proper credit and not let online or will have to pay for them. It’s a matter of print photos be deceptive. Ethics are as educating people,” she says. important in cake designing as in any other profession. And, for the would-be cake designer, it’s a matter of knowing the difference So is making money, and when it between a hobby and a job. “Sometimes comes to decorating cakes, there is people lose their creativity and their no norm. Supermarket and ice cream drive when it is something they have to shop decorators are paid an hourly do every day,” Wiles says.  rate that depends on their experience, store and location. Location also Suzanne Hall has been writing about plays a key role in the earnings of chefs, restaurants, food and wine from her home in Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee, for more decorators in bakeries and those than 25 years. working on their own. Those in urban areas with an affluent population and larger corporate clients generally can www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 37 by degrees farm-to-plate pickling by degrees

Farm-to-plate pickling Recipe by Justin Hoffman Article by Danielle Rodriquez Photography by Matt Ziegenhorn

resh-packed sweet pickling is U.S. during the late 1800s when Eastern a quick process to preserve European Jews immigrated to New York. Justin Hoffman is a culinary F vegetables or fruits with vinegar, instructor and restaurant manager salt, water, sugar and spices. This method Today, many culinary students are at Broadmoor Technical Center, exposed to urban farm agriculture Overland, Kansas. can be completed in a day. It differs from traditional pickling recipes that through schools and local nonprofit use brine. Brining requires more time organizations. It is essential for students and more salt to aid in the fermentation to learn how to grow, harvest, cook process. Kosher dill pickles are an and preserve food, not only for health example of pickling with brine. reasons, but also for society’s well- being. Engaging students in processing The fresh-packed sweet pickling food that they consume provides life method provides a sweet, tangy and skills for further development. about Broadmoor crisp pickle. Different spices, herbs and Technical Center flavored vinegars will create interesting Before the pickling process begins, Broadmoor Urban Farm culinary flavor combinations. Pickled items thoroughly wash food, workspace program, Overland Park, and equipment to remove any debris Kansas, uses farm-to-plate food can be used for relishes, condiments, production to teach Shawnee garnishes and even desserts. or contaminates. After all items are Mission School District students sanitized, prepare the food to pickle how to preserve, harvest and Curing cucumbers dates back to 2030 by adding sea salt or kosher salt and prepare seasonal vegetables. Headed by culinary instructors B.C. when the vegetable was brought aromatics to start the fermentation Bob Brassard, CEC, and Justin from India to Tigris Valley, which is process. Once this process has taken Hoffman, the program offers a modern-day Iraq. Ancient sources have place and the vinegar mixture is added, ¼-acre garden on-site where referred to the nutritional benefits of the result is a pickle created from the students harvest and use the produce in dishes prepared pickles and claimed that pickles were a vinegar’s acetic acid. The fresh-packed at the student-run Broadmoor beauty aid. Cleopatra declared that her pickling process is not canning and Bistro. Area chefs also use the good looks came from a diet of pickles. is not intended to make the product produce at their restaurants. Since the Middle Ages, pickles have shelf-stable at ambient temperatures. The Broadmoor student garden program was recently featured in been a common condiment and snack in Store the pickles in the refrigerator until The Kansas City Star Magazine. England. Pickles became popular in the ready to serve. 

38 Sizzle SPRING 15 Step 1 Step 4 ingredients Gather and organize tools and ingredients to In a large stainless-steel pot, add cider 25 cucumbers, thin sliced prepare pickles. vinegar, sugar, mustard seed, celery seed, 6 onions, thin sliced whole cloves and turmeric. Bring to a boil, 2 red bell peppers, thin sliced stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. 3 garlic cloves, chopped ½ cup salt 3 cups cider vinegar 5 cups white sugar 2 t. mustard seed 1 ½ t. celery seed ½ t. whole cloves 1 T. ground turmeric equipment Cutting board Crinkle cutter Step 2 Chef’s knife Using a crinkle cutter, slice cucumbers Colander into ¼-inch slices. With a chef’s knife, slice Step 5 Measuring utensils onions, garlic and red peppers. Transfer cucumber/onion mixture to sterile Large mixing bowl Mason jars; leave a 1-inch space at the top of 1-gallon saucepot the jar. Pour in hot vinegar mixture. Cool slightly. Wooden or metal spoon Tongs for filling jars Mason jars or containers of choice for storage helpful hint To seal the Mason jars, place on a perforated hotel pan and place pan in a steamer for 10-15 minutes. Remove jars; let stand until room temperature and the “tops have popped sealed.”

Step 6 Step 3 Place lids and screw tops on jars; hand tighten. Mix cucumbers, onions, garlic and red Cool in refrigerator until ready to serve. peppers in a large bowl. Evenly distribute salt over vegetable mixture; let sit for four hours. Rinse in cold water.

Bread and butter pickles made from fresh-packed pickling.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 39 international flavors vietnam international flavors

Vietnam By Sisavath Keovilay, chef instructor at Keiser University Center for Culinary Arts, Sarasota, Florida, campus.

my family as a Vietnam War refugee. In October 1975, my mother, who was born in Laos, my father, three sisters, two brothers and I emigrated from Bangkok to the U.S.

As a 5-year-old Asian immigrant, I remember U.S. cuisine being unusual and not to my liking. I did not even care for butter or pizza. My first experience with pizza was bad. My father bought frozen pizza, thawed it out and served it to us without cooking it.

My parents made our new living environment similar to the one in Southeast Asia by providing us with their homeland cuisine. They acquired seeds for such fresh herbs from Laos lthough I have a Laotian name, and Vietnam as mint, purplish Thai Vietnamese cuisine has been the basil, anise, which is like red perilla A main part of my diet growing or shiso, green perilla, lemon grass, up in the U.S. My father, who was born cilantro and more. Vietnamese use and raised in North Vietnam, did most mint as a savory, rather than a sweet, of the cooking. I was born in Vientiane, component for dishes. My parents grew Laos, and immigrated to Thailand with such Vietnamese vegetables as mustard

40 Sizzle SPRING 15 cabbage, small round green eggplant, slaughter and dress livestock or fish the bitter melon, Chinese spinach, andphak same day, and he brought that practice bung (pronounced phak book), also with him to the U.S. While growing up known as a Thai vegetable. in Sarasota, my brothers and I would net shrimp and other shellfish and go My father pickled a variety of vegetables, fishing almost every weekend. When including mustard greens (dua chua), a we wanted beef, my father asked other staple side dish. He would soak mustard Vietnamese or Laotian families living greens in saltwater for a day before opposite: Hoi An is a 15th century nearby to join in the purchase of a whole rinsing and putting in a jar. Then he port city located on the south- central region of Vietnam's east would put aluminum foil on top and seal cow from a farm, and he would slaughter it. Pork was handled the same way. coast. Now a tourist destination, the it with a tight lid. The mustard greens city was once a major trade center would ferment for two months. Once When my father made blood sausage, it for Southeast Asia. China's and they were soured, he would slice the was a celebratory occasion. He would Japan's influence are reflected in have his friends over to enjoy a feast of its architecture. pickled greens and add cilantro, minced left: Banh chung is a square-shaped ginger, sliced green chili pepper (usually blood sausage and pig innards. sticky rice stuffed with pork belly and jalapeño) and fish sauce. mung beans. It is made to celebrate Doi huyet is Vietnamese blood sausage. Tet, the Vietnamese New Year. When we lived in Laos and Thailand, Because my father is in his early 90s, it Photo credit: Wikipedia Commons fresh meat was always available. We has been a long time since I have had "Banh Chung", photo by Pmquan, licensed under CC BY 2.0 it. Local Vietnamese markets in Florida slaughtered our own livestock. The right: Rice paper is made by taking villagers occasionally slaughtered a cow sell doi huyet, but it is not the same. My soaked rice and grinding it into a or pig, and my father would cure or father used fresh pig’s blood and special thin paste. The paste is then spread onto a cloth that is suspended over smoke the remaining meats to extend ingredients. He would drain the blood boiling water and covered with shelf life. When he lived in Vietnam, from a fresh-slaughtered pig and cure it bamboo to steam. there was no refrigeration. He would with lemon grass leaves. Before piping Photos courtesy of Sisavath Keovilay www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 41 international flavors vietnam

regional flavors of Vietnam Northern Region The Northern region is influenced by Chinese cuisine because it borders China. The cuisine incorporates a variety of soups, long-grain rice, stir-fry dishes and hot pots. Chopsticks are used for dining.

Central Region France and Portugal influence the Central region. Food is spicy, which is common in Portugal. French influences are prevalent, as shown by the use of French bread as a staple part of the menu, as well as cream- filled pastries, meat and fish pâtés. Main ingredients include potatoes and green beans.

Southern Region The Southern region is influenced by Indian and Malaysian cuisines. It has a variety of curry dishes with coconut, in addition to using coconut as an ingredient in many other dishes. This region is least influenced by China. the blood into the hog casing, he would aromatic spices that included cinnamon add ground pork sauteed with kaffir lime bark, coriander seeds, star anise, cloves leaves, fish sauce, cooked broken rice, and nutmeg. The stockpot would chopped cilantro and a small amount simmer for hours with knucklebones, of fine shrimp paste. After he piped the toasted spices, brulee onions, whole blood mixture into the hog casings, he ginger, granulated sugar and fish sauce. hung the sausage for a few hours. He My father’s pho is the best I have ever then poached the sausage in saltwater had, and it was a celebration every time until done. When it was cold, he served we made it. it sliced and accompanied by fish sauce Another celebratory dish my father with fresh chilies and lime juice. spent time preparing is banh chung. He Pork dishes are prevalent in South would prepare this dish to celebrate above: Vietnamese eat whole fried fish, including the bones to get their Vietnam, but North Vietnam favors beef Tet, the Vietnamese New Year, which daily supply of calcium. or water buffalo when it comes to pho. is celebrated around February. Banh opposite left: Braised in ginger and Pho is comfort food to me. My father chung is a square-shaped sticky rice lemon grass broth, thin-sliced pig and my older brother would go to a farm stuffed with pork belly and mung beans ears are crunchy yet gelatinous. Seasoned with sweet and spicy at 3 a.m. with two or three other families and simmered in water for 12 hours. fish sauce, they’re tossed with fresh and slaughter a cow. Once we divided I would help my father wrap it with herbs, vegetables and lime. the slaughter, we would fabricate the banana leaves and tie it with bamboo opposite right: In Central Vietnam, beef to freeze it. The leftover parts were string. This was an exciting time for the French influence is still strong as a French bakery subsists alongside shanks and knucklebones. My parents me, because it was a chance to make a a Vietnamese restaurant. would throw these in a giant stockpot campfire and hang out with my brothers Photos courtesy of Sisavath Keovilay on an outdoor fire pit. I would toast and father. My father would then visit

42 Sizzle SPRING 15 his Vietnamese friends and give it away While I was getting my degree, I would from Laos to Vietnam as part of the Tet celebration. During reflect on the food that I consumed There is a reason why my last name is Laotian and not Vietnamese. My father our first Tet in the U.S., my father took growing up. The way my family and was a North Vietnamese general who me to visit other Vietnamese families. I acquired food was physical, from defected when the U.S. entered the I was in the first grade and, just like for gardening and fishing to slaughtering Vietnam War. He fled to Laos, where he met my mother, and turned himself Chinese New Year, adults would give livestock and cooking fresh food. in to the U.S. The CIA interrogated my small red money pouches to children After finishing my degree, I attended father and released him six months later. for a lucky year. My father thought I had Southeastern Academy Culinary He became a battalion commander in Vientiane, Laos, for the Laotian army good grades in my first year of school, Training Center, Kissimmee, Florida, during the Vietnam War. He changed his because he thought my report card for classical culinary arts training. name to protect his family that remained in North Vietnam. In his new position, he stated a “fantastic” grade for every class. Almost every dish I prepared in assisted the CIA in interrogating captured He would tell other Vietnamese families culinary school was reminiscent North Vietnamese military personnel. My that his son was so smart that he made of how my father and mother had father kept this detail a secret for a long time, and only told me when I decided an “F” in every class. One of my father’s flavored and cooked. to serve in the U.S. Army in 1989. This friends, who had been in the U.S. longer explains why my Laotian friends had While working as a chef in Orlando, than we had, told him that the “F” a different upbringing when it came to Florida, I interjected my Asian flavor cuisine and culture. stands for “failure.” That was the end of profile into my creativity for menu my money-pouch spree. development and daily specials. I am My education background has always pleased that the Southeast Asian flavor led me back to my Vietnamese profile has become a trend on the heritage. I have a bachelor’s in food U.S. culinary scene, and I continue to science and human nutrition from expand and share my knowledge of the University of Florida, Gainesville. Asian cuisine.  www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 43 the interview neal brown the interview

Neal Brown By Ethel Hammer

2014-present; cofounder, The Dig In restaurant’s legacy of expanding culinary Foundation, Indianapolis, 2010-2015; boundaries,” he says. chef/owner, Libertine Liquor Bar, Indianapolis, 2011-present; chef/owner, Not one to sit on his hands when The Brown Bag, Indianapolis, 2012-2013. L’Explorateur closed, Brown jumped achievements/awards into pizza, a culinary mainstay. He L’Explorateur voted Best New Restaurant, opened his first craft pizza restaurant, Indianapolis Monthly, 2007; Best Chef, Indianapolis Monthly, 2007; Forty Pizzology. No longer able to fashion Under 40 award, Indianapolis Business himself as Indianapolis’ most inventive Journal, 2007; Slow Food USA Indiana chef, he knew that crafted Neapolitan- delegate, Terra Madre, Torino, Italy, 2008; Pizzology, Best New Restaurant, Nuvo, style pizza could still fulfill one of his born 2009; Semifinalist Best Chef: Great major objectives: to get people to eat Indianapolis Lakes, James Beard Foundation, 2013 more local food. The house-made and 2014; Libertine Liquor Bar, one of porchetta, mortadella and pepperoni in resides The Best Bars in America, 2013, Esquire. Indianapolis his carne pizza are made from local pigs and the arugula comes from a local farm. learned the trade hef Neal Brown has been Dishwasher, busser at Indianapolis Indianapolis’ narrow culinary tastes pushing boundaries since his restaurants; graduated, Johnson & had previously stymied him. Now, as Wales University, Charleston, South C days as a mischievous boy. His he grows an independent pizza empire, Carolina, 1996; sous chef, Tavola di Tosa, first restaurant, L’Explorateur, touted Indianapolis, 2003-2004; line cook to chef he can help develop younger chefs and his natural inclination to explore. de cuisine, H2O Restaurant & Sushi Bar, thereby help build a bigger Indianapolis L’Explorateur was far ahead of its time. Indianapolis, 2004-2006. food scene. And his love of embracing It set a standard and led the way. The career path large objectives didn’t stop there. Consultant, Brugge Brasserie, restaurant closed in 2009, but it is still Indianapolis, 2005; chef/owner, a local legend for introducing such In 2012, he started The Brown Bag, a L’Explorateur, Indianapolis, 2006- dishes as seared foie gras with peach ice food delivery business inspired by the 2009; chef/owner, Pizzology, Carmel, Indiana, 2009-present, Village of West cream, the kind of things Indianapolis legendary Mumbai delivery system Clay, 2014-present, and Indianapolis, had never tasted. “I’m proud of the dabbawala, which is operated by 5,000

44 Sizzle SPRING 15 men who transport lunch to customers that the bacon flight with lamb back, in silver lunch pails, or tiffins. The Brown jowl bacon and Smoking Goose Bag delivered lunch in returnable pails house bacon is widely requested, but with such dishes as Thai chicken curry not always on the menu. Esquire put and carnitas tacos. The Brown Bag didn’t Libertine Liquor Bar on its list of the make it. Still, Neal Brown, the explorer, best bars in American in 2013. If it has cut down on throwaway containers and a signature drink, it’s the Screw & Bolt, expanded the palates of local residents, an unexpected mixture of gin, neroli turning them into explorers, too. Now, (oil from blossoms of the bitter orange with Juanita, a taqueria specializing in tree), tonka bean (a South American ceviche in the works, what other ideas spice similar to vanilla that has a fruity might be simmering on his back burner? aroma), violet and grapefruit. “It’s Ask for his signature dishes at an experimental drink that creates a Libertine Liquor Bar, and Brown challenge and is not like anything you’ve says, “Our menus are ever evolving, tasted,” Brown says. Experimental, above: Oxtail gnocchi but to say we have signature dishes challenging and moving in surprising served at Pizzology. is misleading.” However, he admits directions–this is Neal Brown. Courtesy of Neal Brown. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 45 the interview neal brown

else, had the ability to articulate an idea and trust he had done it well enough so that his group of aides could go off and work on it, after which he’d refine it. I’m proud that I have a point of view. I like to think about food in Indiana outside the normal conventions of noodles, steakhouses and chain restaurants.

How has the food scene evolved since you did L’Explorateur? NB: We are not a confident group of people when it comes to the culture of food. Taking risks is terrifying when you live in a conservative place. But the mindset has shifted here. I think there is a new generation of people whose interest in food is not conservative. Younger chefs are challenging older chefs, who are trying to be more adventuresome, too. Now Your best advice for chefs? some people will only eat at independent NB: Get an education, any education. restaurants. People no longer say, let’s While I loved going to Johnson & Wales, go out to dinner and a movie. They I no longer support culinary institutions want to go out to dine. The tag line at because the student debt is too much. It Libertine Liquor Bar is “Celebrating takes years to pay down the debt, and the Pioneering American Spirit.” young chefs will be making only $10 an L’Explorateur was the most inventive hour when they get out of culinary school. restaurant Indianapolis had ever seen. So, I advise people to find a mentor they We were doing things in 2006 that chefs can get close to. Go to a hotel and cook are doing now, using progressive cooking for someone you admire, or take the techniques such as sous vide, and using independent path and work with someone hydrocolloids to go beyond the mother who does food you want to cook. If you sauces. We were not successful, but we can’t have a long-term relationship with were sustainable until the recession. I’m that person, find someone else. I was most proud that people still respect what mentored by Tony Hanslits at Tavola di we did and think it’s important. I do all this Tosa and Greg Hardesty at H20 Sushi to make my community better and to get Bar. They allowed me to get close to them people to think in a more progressive way and see how they did things. about food. above: House-made mortadella with pistachios. One of my mentors is a Harvard- What happened when you decided opposite left: "Old Kentucky trained oncologist who started his own to open a pizzeria? Rome" features Kentucky- pharmaceutical company. Another is NB: I had to develop leadership skills. I cured prosciutto, roasted figs, arugula and taleggio cheese. a retired aeronautics and automotive was no longer going to be this creative opposite right: One of industry executive, whose advice has chef. It was difficult for a while.Then I Pizzology's rosa pizzas topped helped me navigate the world of startups. started thinking that maybe my job is with fennel sausage. Photos I really identified with Steve Jobs. He was to train and give opportunities to young courtesy of Neal Brown. independent and, more than anything chefs and develop Indianapolis’ food

46 Sizzle SPRING 15 culture. My goal now is to allow as many in a ripe position. The center core of people as possible to eat local food. I’m our city used to be stagnant. Downtown keeping my prices low. It’s tough trying to used to be a business center, and people push boundaries if you want to keep your would return to the ’burbs after 5 p.m. food inexpensive. But we have grilled Now people are starting to live in condos octopus on the menu at Pizzology, and downtown, and they see Indianapolis as that’s pretty innovative for a pizzeria. We a perfectly good place to raise a family. also have a ham tasting plate so people A lot of people are coming to live here can experience five different hams, three from out of state and the suburbs. In local and two from outside Indiana. addition, Indianapolis is developing as a vibrant tech climate, and this means real Is Indianapolis a good place for opportunities for chefs. new chefs? NB: Over the past 10 years things have Tell us a little more about your been slowly changing, thanks in part to life now as Indianapolis keeps the baby boomers who are traveling all evolving. over the world to New York, Chicago, NB: I’m an outgoing sort of introvert. I Miami, Shanghai, China, Paris, and recharge my batteries by being alone. I tasting new things. When they come do tons of reading, mostly cookbooks. back to Indianapolis they say, I wish we I like biographies. And I run a little bit. I love the natural world. I’m a semi- had some of those things here. Suddenly environmentalist, because, frankly, I don’t we have three vegetarian restaurants, have the time to dedicate to being an several Chinese and Korean restaurants, activist. I’m vocal about the preservation plus Latin and Thai food. Ethnic of species and ecology. restaurants are the unsung heroes in the culinary explosion of Indianapolis. The I think being a restaurateur and a chef is craft beer movement is blowing up. If our really a simple life. The impact we have employees desire to go after sommelier on people is immediate. People eat food certifications, we will pay for them. and know right away if they love it. 

Now younger chefs are starting to make Ethel Hammer is a writer, lecturer and names for themselves, and I think that will cartoonist based in Chicago. continue. Ultimately, I see Indianapolis www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 47 the quiz spring 2015 Get the answers Click here to find out the correct the quiz answers.

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1. What are Slice of Life’s Paola Schwartz 6. Success in cake decorating depends on what skills? 12. What is a culinary advantage of using career plans? a. Baking skills nontraditional fish? a. Executive chef b. Art skills a. Customers recognize the names of bycatch b. Banquet chef c. People skills b. There are no culinary advantages to using c. Health-supportive chef d. All of the above lesser-known seafood d. Sous chef c. Chefs have to find similar substitutes for 7. What is the professional development traditional seafood dishes 2. The callops shell is the emblem for which apostle? organization for cake decorators? d. Creating a new market for bycatch a. St. Paul a. Oklahoma State Sugar Art Show b. St. James the Greater b. International Cake Exploration Societé 13. What organization helped launch trash fish c. St. Thomas Aquinas c. ACF National Convention dinners in 2013? d. St. Luke d. Le Royale Icing a. Monterey Bay Aquarium b. Chefs Collaborative 3. What is the center-of-the-plate for the modern 8. How does fresh-packed sweet pickling differ c. Oceana version of Coquilles St. Jacques au Gratin? from brine pickling? d. The Seafood Watch a. Au gratin scallops a. Uses vinegar b. Poached scallops b. More time and more salt to ferment 14. What was Neal Brown’s first restaurant in c. Seafood sausage c. Less time and less salt to ferment Indianapolis? d. Sauteed scallops d. Uses spices a. Libertine Liquor Bar b. Pizzology 4. Dinner Lab is a New Orleans-based 9. Pickling dates back to which time period? c. L’Explorateur organization that does what? a. 2030 B.C. d. The Brown Bag a. Showcases emerging chefs by organizing b. 1800s pop-up events c. Middle Ages 15. What was Neal Brown’s main objective for b. Conducts surveys for chefs on new menu items d. 1920s starting Pizzology? c. Provides consulting services to restaurants a. He loves pizza d. Provides public relations and marketing 10. What city in Florida did Sisavath Keovilay b. It was easy services to the hospitality industry grow up? c. He was tired of inventive food a. Orlando d. He could use pizza as a way to get people 5. The ermt for a single or series of dining b. Kissimmee to eat more local food experiences held in a random space or existing c. Sarasota restaurant in off hours? d. Gainesville a. Fast-casual dining b. Adventure dining 11. Vietnam’s Central region is influenced by c. Field dining what countries? d. Pop-up a. France and Portugal b. China and Thailand c. Cambodia and Laos d. None of the above Last Bite indianapolis last bite Indianapolis Indy is set to make a statement in the culinary industry with its soon-to-launch food and beverage innovation hub, Tinker Flats. The intent is an incubator similar to what is available for tech startups that will encourage a next generation of artisan food businesses, restaurants and mixologists to celebrate farm-to-table and urban living in the “Circle City.” And Indy already has plenty of great places to eat. Just ask its chefs. farm-to- top-notch the table eats dim sum neighborhood The Local Eatery Szechwan Garden bistro and Pub 3649 Lafayette Rd Oakleys Bistro 14655 N. Gray Rd, Westfield (317) 328-2888 1464 W. 86th St (317) 218-3786 szechwangardenonline.com (317) 824-1231 localeateryandpub.com Szechwan-Garden oakleysbistro.com @LocalEateryPub Mon.-Thurs.: 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. @OakleysBistro Mon.-Thurs.: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sun.: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Lunch: Tues.-Sat.: Fri. & Sat.: 11 a.m.-TBD Dim sum hours: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Sun.: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Appetizers: $3.25-$10.95 Dinner: Tues.-Thurs.: Starters: $4-$10.75 Soup: $5.95-$13.95 5-9:30 p.m. Market specials: $7-$22 Chef’s Recommendations: Fri. & Sat.: 5-10 p.m. House favorites: $10-$23 $10.95-market price Soups: $6.75 Salads: $9.75-$11.75 For dim sum, my This is some of the Entrees: $18.75-$32.75 best comfort food in favorite restaurant is Szechwan Garden. It's Indianapolis. With This is my go-to a great way on a lazy great weekly specials restaurant in the city. Saturday or Sunday of frog legs and bison I have much respect to try their different burgers, Chef Craig for what Steve Oakley traditional dishes that Baker and his staff is doing. The food is are well executed. surround themselves well thought out and with local farmers –Chris Eley, owner, executed admirably. and have a strong Smoking Goose Visiting and touring influence on the the menu makes for a culinary scene. It has great night out. great atmosphere and great service. –Thomas Melvin, executive chef, Union 50 –Steven Oakley, chef/ proprietor, Oakleys Bistro g e T T he laT esT T rends wiT h

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