The Trailwalker Magazine of the Friends of the Heysen Trail Issue 107 Autumn 2008

Coastal Walking North Haven to Goolwa

Heysen Trail Meanders Walking the northern section of the Trail

Greenstone and Caples Valleys Hiking in New Zealand

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 1 PRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00079 ALPANA STATION

Blinman Nungawurtina Hut & Trail

There is a passenger transport service Alternative for not so active walkers – an available to Wilpena, , Heysen easy 2 day walk. Trail Head for walkers (individuals or Stay a night or two in a new replica pine & groups) provided by David & Sally Henery of pug shepherds hut en-route from Alpana Alpana Station. to the Blinman Pools and Angorichina Quality self-contained accommodation Tourist Village to be picked up by John and suitable for walkers, artists, nature returned to Alpana groups, etc. OR Ensuite facilities for caravans/campers now 4WDrive. Be transported to the hut and available. experience a true Flinders retreat in a serene setting. Suitable for 6 people.

Contact Details Postal address: PO Box 11, Blinman SA 5730 Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8648 4626 Website: www.alpana-station.netfirms.com Fax: 08 8648 4626

2 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Bookings Essential Published by the Friends of the Heysen Trail & Other Walking Trails Contents 10 Pitt Street, SA 5000 Phone (08) 8212 6299 Fax (08) 8212 1930 Regular Features Web www.heysentrail.asn.au 5 Presidents’s Report Email [email protected] 5 Summer Walking Burra Branch Hallett Cove Conservation Park Phone (08) 8843 8115 Office Report Email [email protected] 6 6 Walking Committee Report Membership Information 5 6 Brief News Joining Fee $10 Burra Branch Report Single $20 per year 7 Family $30 per year 8 Walking SA Report Organisations $50 per year 9 Trail Maintenance Sections Membership is valid from the 10 Notice of AGM date of payment until the end of the corresponding month in the 12 From North Haven to Goolwa following year. Coastal Walking

Trailwalker Magazine Views expressed in contributed articles are those of the authors, and not necessarily those of the Friends of the 12 Heysen Trail. 16 2008 Walk Programme 18 Greenstone and Caples Valleys The Trailwalker magazine is Hiking in New Zealand available by subscription or online at www.heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker

The Trailwalker magazine is published quarterly: • Autumn (March) 18 • Winter (June) • Spring (September) 21 Friends of the Heysen Trail • Summer (December) organised hiking holidays The Trailwalker magazine has a New Zealand, Tasmania & the Grampians distribution of 1200, and an estimated readership of approximately twice that number. 21 Articles, reports and other submissions by members and other interested 22 On The Trail - ARTS Project parties are welcome and should be An Update emailed to the Trailwalker Editor at [email protected]

Submission Deadline is the first Friday of the month prior to the month of 22 publication. 23 Heysen Trail Meanders Advertising Rates Walking the northern section of the Trail 1/8 page vertical $40 per issue 1/4 page horizontal $60 per issue 1/4 page vertical $60 per issue 1/3 page vertical $70 per issue 1/2 page $100 per issue 23 Full Page $150 per issue Flyer (supplied for insertion) 26 Tour du Mont Blanc $180 per issue Walking in Europe A commitment for 12 months advertising, ie 4 issues, would attract 10% saving

Advertising specifications are available upon request or by visiting 26 30 Discounts Available to Members www.heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 3 About the Friends

Patron Honorary Members C. Warren Bonython AO Terry Lavender* Jim Crinion Council Members 2006/2007 Neville Southgate Simon Cameron President Doug Leane Julian Monfries Vice President Fred Brooks Peter Wynen Secretary Sadie Leupold John Wilson Treasurer Thelma Anderson David Beaton Kath Palyga Robert Alcock Richard Schmitz Jim Alvey Arthur Smith Ray Blight Colin Edwards Gavin Campbell Hugh Greenhill Jerry Foster Jamie Shephard Bob Randall Glen Dow Claire Randall Barry Finn Cliff Walsh Dean Killmier John Wilson Council Committee Chairmen David Beaton President Simon Cameron Jack Marcelis Finance & Audit Cliff Walsh Julian Monfries Maintenance John Wilson * (deceased) Walking Arrienne Wynen Office David Beaton Trailwalker Editor Marketing & Membership Robert Alcock Jeremy Carter Honorary Membership Bob Randall Membership Secretary Council Meeting Dates David Beaton Wed 19 March, 2008 Wed 16 April, 2008 Office Coordinator Wed 21 May, 2008 Jack Marcelis Burra Branch Chairmen Maintenance Coordinator Branch President Arthur Simpson Gavin Campbell Branch Secretary Margaret Fry Maintenance Hugh Greenhill Bookkeepers Goyder Tourism Working Party rep Hugh Greenhill Bozu Zhang Wen Gu Xun Wang (Michael)

Shop/Office Hours & Volunteers

Monday 10.30 - 2.30 Wednesday 10.30 - 2.30 Friday 10.30 - 4.30 Mike Parsons, Beverley Blanch, Jack Marcelis, Wendy Fox, Christine Sandy Melbourne, Colin Edwards, Robyn Quinn, David Beaton, Hanna, Allan Wadham, Roger Porter Jamie Shephard Elizabeth Rogers Thursday 10.30 - 2.30 Saturday & Sunday Closed Tuesday 10.30 - 2.30 Frances Gasson, Chris Casper, Jim Relief Staff David Rattray, Dawn Bon, Chris Alvey Jim Alvey, David Beaton, Jack Porter Marcelis

4 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Report President’s Report

Simon Cameron Summer is supposedly the off season for walking but when the mornings are so clear and the evenings so long, who could stand still?

I have managed to join a couple of twilight walks and met a number of new walkers. The Twilight walks are social affairs, ideal for introducing friends and family to the pretty trails of Adelaide.

The Kokoda adventurers are also training, come searing sun or hot north wind, with a diligence that should make the Kokoda walk a pleasant rest.

Kokoda is the first overseas walk supported by the Friends of the Heysen Trail and two more walks are promoted in this edition of Trailwalker - Southern Tasmania for December 2008 and New Zealand in March 2009. We have negotiated group prices and as Front Cover usual the numbers are limited and bookings are made directly with the adventure companies. This is a new walking initiative with a Summer Walking variety of adventure companies who have supported Friends of Heysen Trail with sponsorship, advertising and rebates on the booking fees.

In true “off season” style the council has been planning the year ahead setting out goals and budgets. After our “feverish” 2007 we are on “the broil” in 2008. The development of the Strategic Plan in 2007 is being followed by Department of Health and Environment’s management plan for the Heysen Trail in 2008. These herald some exciting changes for the trail and our partnership with the department.

The Friends of Heysen trail have been diligently raising funds in the last 3 years and squireling away for future projects and opportunities with the vision of “developing a world standard walk”. Our support for DEH is primarily in volunteer hours but the Council has identified projects for 2008 including: • maintenance manuals • water tanks • Heysen friendly town signage • city and country displays • hut amenities This quarter our cover feature is • walk leader training a photograph of the boardwalk • trail marking in the Hallett Cove Conservation • refurbishing the office entrance Park. The Twilight Walk on Wednesday, November 28 was With Autumn we can start to enjoy the trail again as the fire season along this boardwalk, from Marino fades. Even after walking some sections many times it never fails Rocks to Hallett Cove and return. to surprise, often because different company makes for new appreciation. New markers, reroutes, changing seasons and changing In addition, on pages 12 to 15 moods means that it is always interesting. I have observed the second we feature Gavin’s account of group of End-to-Enders busily doing their catch-ups as the excitement his and Marie’s walk along the builds and wish I was joining them every step of the way. What better Adelaide coast from North Haven way to celebrate this wonderful trail than standing in Parachilna and onwards following the coast Gorge, in August, to watch them climbing up the creek bank to the of the to the final stile. Murray Mouth. See you at the AGM and on the trail.

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 5 Regular Reports Office Report Brief News

By Jack Marcelis Office Coordinator Searching for Trailwalkers please do. Members booked on New Staff members Are you an obsessional Trailwalker Thank you to those members End-to-End days and weekends hoarder? Are you just obsessional, and who answered our plea for more away can be contacted much more happen to have all the back issues of staff volunteers. We consequently easily and economically via our Trailwalker? If you are then you the welcome as trainees Christine email system, that is, if we have your member we want. Hanna, Roger Porter and Elizabeth email address. We currently hold all the issues of Rogers. I say trainee with trepidation Communication Problems TrailWalker EXCEPT Issue 2 (well we because during, retired teacher, have pages 1, 3, 5, 7 yet somehow Elizabeth’s first training day I During the past couple of months don’t have pages 2, 4. 6, 8! Do you distinctly felt I was on notice namely we have had some problems with have the missing pages?), Issue 45 and being surrounded by 3 ‘chalkies’! inward emails not being answered Issue 47. timely or not at all. The problems New staff members will bring appear to be/have been with the The Friends would dearly like to have a fresh ideas and new enthusiasm full set of Trailwalkers, like having a full integration of our website and to the shop. set of Grange Hermitage really! our email inbox. Some emails did Walking is not about walking only. not arrive at all and with others If you can help us with our loss, contact Because apart from the obvious we received up to six copies! Rest the office. We would like you to donate physical benefits most of us very assured that our ‘professional’ them, however a copy would suffice. well understand and appreciate the amateur volunteers have/are trying physiological benefits. to resolve it. Dear Editor New and Membership And to cap it all our two telephone While rambling around the net I Renewal Forms lines also went haywire over the stumbled upon the article on C Warren Christmas break. Bonython that appeared in the Winter Most of you have filled these out 2007 Trailwalker and was delighted diligently but approximately 30% Have a great and happy to read that C Warren Bonython was have not. To those I ask again to travelling 2008. still around!

In the mid-1970s I won a school book prize voucher and bought a copy of “Walking the ”. Not an obvious choice for a 14 year old who Walking Committee lived in Sydney but I loved the book and it was a big influence on my developing By Arrienne Wynen passion for bushwalking. I particularly Walking Committee Chairperson recall the beautiful photos and the walking formulae in the appendices. Unfortunately I lent it to someone a few The new walk season is nearly people is great fun. Just ask anyone years ago and the cad didn’t return it - I upon us and the walk programme who went to Spear Creek or the will have to seek out another copy. has been revised over the summer Great Ocean Walk! Strangely despite reading the book period. Although both the End-to- from cover to cover many times I have End 2 and End-to-End 3 are busy We are running a training course on March 16 for current walk leaders, never made it to the Flinders Ranges!! walking their way to the Flinders Hopefully I will get there soon! there will be walks on Sundays for back markers and all members those members that want a shorter interested in being more involved If it is at all possible could the Friends or different walk. with our walks. As you can see, our pass on my thanks to your Patron for walk program continues to grow his marvellous book! As we have done in the past we have and we need more people to help scheduled two weekends away, achieve this program. The one day Regards one in the Grampians and the other course will give all the basics in Doug Reckord in October at Burra. A weekend planning and running a walk - so New South Wales away walking with like minded come and check out what happens.

6 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Regular Reports Brief News

New Website Walk Leaders, New Members Feature Tail Enders & The President and the Council would like to extend a warm welcome to the A Google Maps interface has been Interested People following members, who have joined created that allows users to view a the Friends since the last edition of the dynamic map of the Heysen Trail. Have you thought about leading a walk, Trailwalker, and urge them to become helping with a walk or just interested in involved in the voluntary, walking and Users can zoom in and out to see more learning more about walking with the social aspects of the Association. or less detail. Layers can be selectively Friends of the Heysen Trail? Well, we turned on to provide additional are holding a training day on March 16. Geoff Kay Terri Hughes information such as: Anthony Jacobs Lynette Beard Topics covered include: Roger Porter Lara Marich • accommodation options along • Walk planning Margaret Porter Rudi Marich the trail • Map reading Charles Lancaster Peter Heysen • Panoramio.com user photos Tully Bates Diana Heysen • re-routes • Problem solving Marcus Eldridge Ian Piddock • end-to-end finish points • and other topics to make leading a Gilbert Downs Lindy Kronen • tourism regions walk an enjoyable experience Dianne Downs Tricia Bell • fire ban districts If you have any interest come along and Denise Ness Linda Morton A help file has been provided to explain see what is involved. Book at the office Adrian Rogers Bushwalkers features of the map interface in detail. Elizabeth Rogers Wandergruppe

Burra Branch Margaret Fry Secretary Burra Branch

Welcome to the new year of 2008. the entrance stating that trespassers The Friends of the Burra Branch Burra Branch will be prosecuted due to campers are looking forward to a new leaving rubbish behind. Apparently walking season. Maintenance SA Water did not know the area at Hugh Greenhill Freshwater Weir is a designated The first meeting of the year will be Maintenance Section 13 camping area for Heysen Trail the AGM which will be held on the users. It will be a Department for 6 April at Arthur Simpson’s house Environment and Heritage issue to in Burra. It will start at 3pm and Bundaleer Reservoir - sort out with SA Water. finish with a pooled tea. Everyone is Southern Channel welcome. At the meeting we will take For many years the southern channel Spalding Township suggestions for walks during the year has been closed due to the high and a program for the year’s walks salinity readings in the catchment Planning is in the process for the will be developed. area. Recently it has been found Heysen Trail to be routed through the Spalding township rather than There will also be elections for the that salinity not high as they first bypassing as it does now. I have new office bearers. There have been thought and now the channel is in the been able to obtain agreements from a number of new walkers join the process of being reopened. SA Water land owners and we are now waiting group in recent years and their input have been removing or trimming on the Licence Agreements to be would be very welcome. So come back trees along the channel and signed off before proceeding with along with your ideas. stabilizing some of the channel walls. At this stage the Heysen Trail will the next stage. It is anticipated that Now the countryside needs a good not be affected by the reopening there will be no road walking into rain to freshen it up and allow the the channel. and out of Spalding. The new route new walking season to begin. will give better access to the services At Freshwater Creek Weir SA Water of Spalding. In the next Trailwalker have placed a sign on the gate at I should have more information.

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 7 Regular Reports The Walking Federation of , Inc. Walking SA

By Thelma Anderson Walking Access Committee

Yankalilla Council some councillors who were absent clubs are urged to be represented and The item relating to an undeveloped from the first meeting voted to rescind members may provide individual club road reserve at Inman Valley outlined the previous decision and to sell the promotional displays. in the previous issue of “Trailwalker” is road reserve to the applicant wishing a classic example of the shortcomings to purchase it, thereby excluding public SARTI (South Australian and resultant confusion of current use of a potentially significant walking Recreational Trails Inc) trail. All Walking Access Committee legislation relating to undeveloped road The current situation with the marking members have since made a further reserves. Interpretation of the section of the Lavender Federation Trail on-site inspection and held discussion of the Roads (Opening and Closing) between Murray Bridge and Clare is at with the landowner and agree that an Act, 1991 by succeeding generations the final stages of planning for extension amicable resolution to this particular of local government officers leaves of the marked route between Springton problem could be achieved by Council much to be desired when dealing with and Keyneton. Landowners have been discussion with all parties. Once applications from adjoining landowners advised of the intended route and again another anecdotal occurrence to purchase undeveloped road reserves work will commence later this year. In demonstrates the failure of existing for absorption into their respective addition the committee is discussing legislation to be correctly interpreted properties. In this particular instance the initial planning stages of extending by local government clearly proving at least two objections were made to the Trail between Keyneton and Truro. that the suggested minor amendments Council regarding the intention to close Of course funding is a key factor for the to the legislation by Walking SA, as and sell the public land in question, purchase of materials and opportunities professionally recommended by a based on an on-site inspection in the for grants are being carefully monitored. case of the objection by Walking SA, retired Parliamentary Counsel with and based on prescribed criteria in the more than 35 years’ experience Walking Trails Support Group case of the objection by the Office for in Government, would provide a Recreation and Sport. Representation satisfactory solution to this long- Details of checking and maintenance was made by Walking SA at the meeting standing and on-going problem. The activities for the Flinders Ranges when Council made a decision to retain current situation is both intolerable walks between 28 March, 2008 and the road reserve in public ownership, and unworkable, requiring constant 7 April, 2008 in the southern area but at a subsequent Council meeting, surveillance of the “Government (Mount Brown, Dutchman’s Stern, Gazette” to monitor proposals to close etc.) are available on the web site: and sell publicly-owned access routes. www.walkingtrailssupportgroup.org.au Talyala Hills The intention of the 1991 amendment also between 9 May, 2008 and 19 to the Roads (Opening and Closing) Act May, 2008 in the Flinders Ranges Accommodation ~ Laura was to avoid this process but history has National Park. Volunteers to assist with Talyala Hills Farmstay at proved its failure to do so. All existing monitoring and maintenance of these Laura in the beautiful and potential walking locations and trails as set out on the web page will be Southern Flinders Ranges trails, including the Heysen Trail, as welcomed on a flexible basis, full time, well as native vegetation and wildlife part-time, or casual. Any visit to the corridors are destined to become bare, Flinders Ranges National Park, however barren tracts within private ownership brief, can only be highlighted by the fence-lines. experience of this activity. Visit the website or telephone Rob Marshall (08 Official Opening of the 8362 1595). 2008 Walking Season Now includes 2 new bedrooms - 5 in total This occasion will take place at 1.00pm Office Manager, Walking SA Good bathrooms - wheelchair friendly on Sunday 6 April, 2008 at Stirling After many years of dedicated and Marked bushland walks on property in the . A committee loyal service to Walking SA in capably Bed and Breakfast has been formed, comprising managing the varied requirements of or Standard Packages available representatives from Walking SA and this position, June Boscence has decided From $80 ARPA, to provide a comprehensive to “hang up her boots”, or more ph/fax 8663 2576 programme of walking events in the accurately to put on her walking boots, email [email protected] area, including the Stirling Linear Park or perhaps to even saddle her horse! It “a little bit of Australia all to yourself ” and Woorabinda, the Pioneer Women’s is expected that her decision will take Walking Trail and other local trails. All effect approximately in August, 2008.

8 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Regular Reports

This means that the Walking Federation to do so. There are also various links will be looking for a person to replace with the Heysen Trail, so it is apparent June at that time on a part-time basis. they are an important resource to Trail This information is simply being advised recreational walking and to State Maintenance to the walking community in the environmental and heritage assets. event that if she cannot be convinced Sections to reverse her decision there may be Caravan and Camping Show The Heysen Trail is graciously someone interested in enquiring about Walking SA was provided with space such an opportunity. maintenance by volunteers. If for a stall at the annual Caravan you discover a problem on the and Camping Show at Adelaide Walking Trails Heysen Trail, please contact the Showgrounds, from Wednesday, 13 Friends of the Heysen Trail office, Concerns are held for the future of the February, 2008 to Sunday, 16 February, or the Maintenance Co-ordinator Mount Lofty Walking Trails system with 2008. Volunteers attended the stall to or relevant Maintenance Section a general deterioration of vital access distribute leaflets, pamphlets, maps, Leader. We welcome feedback issues. These trails provide a valuable brochures, etc. relating to clubs and on the condition of the Heysen network of walking opportunities walking. It was an ideal opportunity to Trail, constructive suggestions on between Gawler and Victor Harbour and communicate information about walking improvements that could be made, were originally known as the Network to the wider community. and general comments or enquiries Trails, developed and published by the about the Trail. former National Fitness Council with Conservation Council of responsibility later transferred to the South Australia, Inc Maintenance Co-ordinators original Department of Recreation and The office of the Conservation Council Gavin Campbell 8296 8613 (H) Sport. They were also encompassed is moving from 120 Wakefield Street, Arthur Smith 8261 6746 (H) by the Friends of the Heysen Trail Adelaide to its new premises at Level 1, Maintenance Committee and Other Walking Trails. Interest in 157 Franklin Street. The library will Chairman the northern trails is currently being be accessible at Wakefield Street John Wilson 8356 9264 (H) expressed by the Gawler Environment on Mondays and Thursdays until Details of maintenance sections and and Heritage Association. Members 21 February, 2008 by appointment at their contacts is available on the of this group wish to re-instate certain 8223 5155. After that date the bulk website at www.heysentrail.asn.au/ trails relevant to their activities but are of the hard copy collection will be in heysen_trail/maintenance.htm experiencing difficulty in their efforts storage for the next threeMono years. ad quarter a page: 90x130mm Trailwalker

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Trailwalker Autumn 2008 9

bushwalkingtours.com.au Notice of Meeting Annual General Meeting

The twenty-first Annual General Meeting of the Friends of the Heysen Trail and Other Walking Trails Inc will be held at 7.30pm on Friday, 28th March 2008 at Woodville Lawn Bowling Club, Oval Avenue, Woodville South.

Free car parking will be available provided by Uniting Care Wesley in the car park; enter from (above the Friends offices). Meetings Agenda Koolunda Avenue. usually conclude by 7.30pm. 1. Apologies. Nominations are sought from In addition to Council, there is 2. Acceptance of the Minutes of you, our members, for election to an opportunity for members to the previous Annual General the Friends Council at the Annual contribute to one of the various Meeting held on 16 March 2007 General Meeting, for all positions Committees: Walking, Trails 3. President’s Report including the Vice President, Maintenance, Marketing and 4. Financial Report Secretary, Treasurer and half of Membership, Trailwalker, etc. 5. Maintenance Report the remaining members (our Constitution calls for not less than To nominate, please complete and 6. Election of Officers. four and not more than ten non office copy or detach the form below and 6.1 Vice President bearing members). send it to: 6.2 Treasurer The Secretary 6.3 Secretary Council meetings are currently Friends of the Heysen Trail, 10 Pitt 6.4 Council Members held on the third Wednesday of Street Adelaide, 5000 7. Appointment of Auditor each month at 5.30pm, in a room 8. Election of Honorary Members 9. Other Business 10. Close of Meeting

At the conclusion of the business of the evening, we have invited Tim Noonan (ABC Radio 891) to be our guest speaker, to share some of his Nomination Form experiences as a recent walker on the Kokoda Trail. I ...... (name) Tea and coffee will be served at the conclusion of the evening. Please bring a plate of light supper. wish to nominate for the position of ...... Note: Any member wishing to (Vice President, Secretary or Treasurer Council Member) move a motion at the AGM should be aware of the Constitutional Signatures: Proposer ...... requirements as follows: “Notice of any motion proposed to Seconder ...... be moved at a General Meeting by any member not being a member of Nominee ...... the Council shall be signed by the proposer and seconder and shall be Name (please print) ...... delivered to the Secretary at least seven days before the meeting. Nominations close at 2.00pm on Thursday 20th March 2008 No motion moved by any member (NB Friday 21st is Good Friday) at the Friends office other than a member of the Council shall be entertained by the meeting Note: We welcome nominations for Council, particularly for new members. unless notice thereof has been given The section of the Friends Constitution relevant to nomination and election to as aforesaid.” the Council is reproduced on the following page.

10 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Notice of Meeting Election of Council Members at AGM The section of the Friends Constitution relating to Management of the Association, and to the procedure for nomination and election of members of the Council is reproduced below.

8. Management (5) Nominations for election as President, Vice-President, Secretary or Treasurer, or as a member of the Council (1) The affairs of the Association shall be managed and shall be invited by notice in the Association’s Newsletter controlled by a Council which may exercise on behalf or other appropriate publication not less than 21 of the Association all the powers conferred on the days before the Annual General Meeting. All persons Association by this Constitution, and may do all such nominated for election must be members of the things as are within the objects of the Association except Association. such things as are required to be done by the Association in General Meeting. (6) Nominations must be in writing and must be signed by two members of the Association and by the nominee to (2) The Council shall consist of the President of the signify his willingness to stand for election. Association, together with a Vice-President, a Secretary, a Treasurer, and not less than four, nor more than ten They must include brief biographical details of the other members, all of whom shall be elected at an nominee for distribution to members at or before the Annual General Meeting of the Association. Annual General Meeting and must reach the Secretary of the Association not less than seven days before the (3) The President shall hold office for a period of two years Annual General Meeting; provided that if an insufficient and shall be eligible for reelection after that period, number of nominations has been received to fill the provided that after three terms in office he or she shall vacancies, additional nominations may be accepted at the stand down for at least one year. Annual General Meeting. (4) The Vice-President, the Secretary, the Treasurer and half (7) If the number of nominations received is more than the of the other members shall retire annually. The members number of vacancies to be filled, an election to fill the to retire each year shall be determined by the Council vacancies shall be held by secret ballot. which shall ensure, as far as possible, that they shall retire in rotation. A retiring Vice-President, Secretary, Treasurer or member shall be eligible for re-election without nomination.

Suppliers of Equipment for: Bushwalking Daywalking Trekking Travel Canoeing Caving Rock Climbing Canyoning Rope Access 192 Rundle Street Adelaide SA 5000 Friends of the Heysen Trail P: 8223 5544 F: 8223 5347 members receive E: [email protected] 10% Discount Excludes Sale Items, Canoes, GPS and EPIRBs

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 11 Coastal Walking From North Haven to Goolwa

By Gavin Campbell Finally we have completed it with our final day’s walk into the car park at . It was a journey that started years ago, but became a project when, one hot Australian Day, Marie and I were walking along Semaphore beach to the breakwater at North Haven and it occurred to me that, with a little extra effort, we could walk along the coast to the Murray Mouth.

We had already over the years walked The section from Seacliff to Hallett the inner Adelaide metropolitan Cove is along the recently constructed beaches and the Heysen Trail from boardwalk and is spectacular as it Cape Jervis to King’s Beach, so the rest winds its way along the clifftop. It would be merely a formality. We could can be achieved by walking to Hallett do it as a series of day walks. Cove and then catching the train back to Seacliff. My favourite way however This is a description of the walk, not is to walk there and back along the necessarily in the order we did it but, cliff, for the views are different each from North Haven to the Mundoo way. If it is low tide then this section Barrage. Most of the walk can be done can be done on the rocks between in the summer months and is little low and high water mark. This section more that a paddle in the shallows involves the Hallett Cove Conservation on hot days, when walking anywhere Park and a walk around it is delightful. else would seem a little silly. The The section from Hallett cove to Port metropolitan beaches need little Stanvac can either be made along the description and walking them mainly shore or on a track along the clifftop. involves leaving the car at a point and The shore walk is reasonably easy and walking out and back. Sometimes we involves some rock hopping and is best walked along the beach one way and done at low tide. The rock formations Brighton jetty back the other way through the houses. adjacent to the Port Stanvac fence are photo source: spacepotato (www.flickr.com/photos/spacepotato/1265826834) This was a highlight when we walked spectacular and alone make this walk past Westlakes, a walk that included worthwhile. Beach shopping precinct. These are all the shopping centre and the shores of out and back walks so allow time for the lake. The section from Seacliff to that. The memorial on Whitton Bluff Glenelg is a walk I take often, in fact a is interesting because it is wrong by trip into the city for me is a walk along Like most people, the inference. (Google, Captain Collett the beach to Glenelg, a tram ride into thought of walking more Barker and discover the correct story.) the city and then, after a look around that a kilometre brings At the Southern end of Southport is the Adelaide, a train ride back to Brighton. about images of instant mouth of the Onkaparinga River and I consider this one of the great walks death from exhaustion, as such is a terminus, or the walker to the shops, ranking with two we did so walking approximately can venture into the estuary and have in Maui along the beach, the walk from a great bird watching experience. How 20 kilometres amazes them. the Mount Cook YHA to the shops long you spend in this part is up to you and back, Aldgate to Stirling along the but I find it a total experience and have railway reserve including Woorabinda spent many days wandering around. Port Stanvac is out of bounds, so the Reserve and Kirton Point Caravan Park Kayaking up the river to Old Noarlunga next section starts from the boundary to Port Lincoln along the coastal path. and back is a great weekend’s fence on its southern side and includes The walk from North Haven to Seacliff entertainment. In doing so, the walker Christies Beach, Port Noarlunga and basically covers the inner metropolitan can get to the southern bank of the Southport. These beaches are great beaches. A friend once caught the bus river and then continue on along surf beaches, especially Southport, so if to Footy Park, watched the game and the beach through Seaford, Moana, you are adventurous, go for a surf. You then walked home in the late afternoon Maslins Beach, Port Willunga, Aldinga can also wander along the Christies along the beach. Beach and Sellicks Beach.

12 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Coastal Walking This section can all be done on the beach with the occasional rock or reef to maneuver your way around or over. I have only done it at low tide so there might be some problem at high tide, leaving the walker to walk along the clifftop on the various paths. The walk from Moana to Port Willunga I did with Terry Gasson through the scrub, so he is an expert on this section. From the clifftop near Port Willunga you can see what appears to be the hull of “The Star of Greece” in the shallows. This section is a stunningly beautiful surprise with the Sellicks Hill Range as a back drop. This range prompted a friend’s young daughter to call them hilltains, a great description of something between hills and mountains. The Star of Greece Restaurant makes a lovely lunch break.

The section between Sellicks Beach and Myponga Beach is lovely. We The Bluff at Victor Harbor did it by walking along the beach at photo source: Samela (www.flickr.com/photos/carcalledwanda/263323382) extreme low tide and walking back to

Sellicks Beach along the clifftop. The walk along the beach is really a long North Haven rock hopping exercise but at low tide the life in the rock pools is surprisingly Semphore delightful. Lunch overlooking Myponga Beach would have enticed us to stay all afternoon had we not had to get West Beach ADELAIDE back to the car. Walking back along the clifftop we basically followed the pipeline and any available tracks. It is Glenelg a walk that offers spectacular views of Brighton Seacliff the coastline with the best views being from the Buddhist retreat overlooking Hallett Cove Sellicks Beach. After this there is a small walk along the Main South Road before taking the first road back to the Pt Noarlunga coast. Marie and I have often walked Moana in this area along the various tracks Maslins Beach with a loop walk including Reservoir Road, Sampson Road, the pipeline and Pt Willunga various tracks, and Mount Jeffcott. A lot of it is on private property, so we are Aldinga Beach always mindful of leaving everything as Sellicks Beach we found it and giving any live stock a Myponga wide berth. Beach

Carrickalinga The section from Myponga Beach to was eventful, for no Normanville Lake Aleandrinasooner had we started to clamber Wirrina over the seemingly endless large rocks Cove Rapid Goolwa along the shore when Marie refused Bay Second Middleton Hindmarsh Valley Island to go any further on rocks. Feeling Pt Elliot Victor a bit the same and as always being Harbor Murray amenable to her wishes, we headed Cape Mouth Jervis up the first available gully and across Deep Coorong Creek country, again on private property but Waitpinga still following the coast. There were lots of steep gullies and associated hills

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 13 Coastal Walking but we soon discovered if we walked This section again we did over two Bay quite early and sit on the beach in inland the steepness soon subsided days, the first day to Second Valley the sun. While there I was able to help and the creeks were easily overcome. and back, the second from Second a bloke whose car had become stuck We are always mindful of livestock in Valley to Rapid Bay and back, with on a small mound with both sets of such situations and leave all gates as a walk around both towns included. wheels in the air. Sometimes it helps we find them. During the occasional Both of these walks were overland and to be size XXL as I sat on the boot of sortie to the ocean clifftop we soon on private property. Walks overland his car while he got some traction. realized we would not have made it are best done in the winter, for then Our next walk was from Bennett Road along the shore, for most of it was cliffs the constant worry of snakes and to Mount Rapid. This included some running down to the sea. The walk the nuisance of flies disappears or native forest, which was delightful, and back to the car was along Fork Tree then we walked to the summit along Road and the Myponga Beach Road what appeared to be road reserves. again offers stunning views. It was ...a stop off at Kenetha’s After lunching on the summit we while walking along this road that a walked back along tracks and roads. local in his white truck stopped out of for a cup of afternoon Before going to the car we walked curiosity and asked us where we had tea. It was a pity her along Yoho Road to have a look at the been. When told, he was very surprised hospitality had waned, wind turbines on Starfish Hill. We were for, like most people, the thought of surprised to see how big they are as walking more that a kilometre brings for after knocking they slowly rotated in the stiff breeze about images of instant death from loudly several times, we that was blowing on this lovely sunny exhaustion, so walking approximately phoned only to hear her winter’s afternoon. 20 kilometres amazes them. reply from Perth The walk from Bennett Road to Cape The walk from Carrickalinga to Wirrina Jervis was mainly on roads which Marina is one of the surprises, and included the Main South Road, Sappers we have walked it many times since. diminishes. Also green hills are much Road, McLeod Road, St Vincent Road We do most of our beach walks on more pleasant than dry and dusty ones. and a small expedition overland to a hot summer days but occasionally There are some stunning views from track that led onto Morgan’s Beach. we do them in winter and again they the hill tops and, on a cold and windy For those who haven’t seen this beach, are delightful in a different way. This day, most exhilarating. it is delightful and well worth a swim particular section we did over two on a hot day. On arrival at Cape Jervis days with a look around Normanville’s Our walk from Rapid Bay to Cape we had a quick look around, noticed main street. The shops and restaurant Jervis was one of the best. From Rapid that Robert Alcock’s Heysen Trail overlooking the small jetty at Bay we walked along the clifftop but sign was already starting to fade and Normanville are there for either a meal soon we were confronted with the bought a map of KI at the terminal or an ice-cream or both. I wonder exceptionally steep and long gully of for future reference, as we will be why such a small jetty, maybe it was Yohoe Creek, so in our wisdom we circumnavigating Kangaroo Island in longer once. The walk from the sand decided to climb Mount Rapid. This the future. to Wirrina is a little rocky, but Marie was an easy climb and the views from didn’t complain much, so I guess it its top were pretty good. After lunch As you all know, Cape Jervis is the wasn’t too arduous. Once at Wirrina we headed back to Rapid Bay with the Trail Head for the Heysen Trail and the we skirted the boat harbour on the whole walk offering great views of the next section, from Cape Jervis to Victor bitumen before heading up the hill coast. No Where Else Creek offered Harbor, is along the Heysen Trail and and on our way to Second Valley and a small problem but we were able to needs little description, for most of you Rapid Bay. negotiate this and get back to Rapid should have completed this section or are about to do so. All I will say is that it is challenging and beautiful and if you haven’t completed it, End-to-End 4 will be doing this section in 2009.

Most South Australians will be familiar with the section from Victor Harbor to Goolwa, for most people will have walked sections of it at some time in their lives, so my description will be brief. From Kings beach we left the Heysen Trail and followed a track along the cliff face then, after The Bluff, it was along the beach to Victor. After a look around Victor and some purchases, the long section to Goolwa began. All of this section was walked on hot to very hot days (everywhere else but here) in the shallows with the occasional swim Glenelg foreshore or surf as the need arose. I took one of

14 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Coastal Walking my Trail Walker groups to Port Elliott and back, including a pastry stop at the Port Elliott Bakery and a stop off at Kenetha Pick’s for a cup of afternoon tea. It was a pity her hospitality had waned, for after knocking loudly several times, Lyn Wood mobile phoned her only to hear her reply from Perth. We couldn’t even get a drink from her tap, for the water had been turned off. This would have to be hospitality at its worst with a lot of room for improvement. While walking past the railway station, Mike Spencer suggested we catch the cockle train Second Valley back to Victor, but the consensus was we were out for a walk, so walk we did. The walk from Goolwa Beach to the and then it was back to Goolwa along All walks the other way are different Murray Mouth and back was a long Randell Road. This is a bit tedious but because of the different scenery and day, with the distance I estimate to a quick look around the Chapman the board walk on the Hindmarsh River be about 27 kms. Again we walked Marina and those obligatory open estuary was a sweet little diversion. in the shallows and on this particular inspections we had to attend, made On another occasion we walked day it was foggy to start, with the fog it more interesting. In Goolwa we did up the stairs near the Chiton Rocks disappearing when a stiff sea breeze the usual shops and art gallery tours. Lifesaving Club and walked back to the sprang up. The mouth is always The one with the artists in residence Hindmarsh River on the road reserve spectacular and now, with its dredges painting those birds and animals is a and road, overlooking the ocean. This and out flow pipes from those dredges, must see at any time. We also stopped particular walk offers great vistas and it offers a different landscape. At one off at the Goolwa Bakery for one of is exceptional on a big surf day. On stage there were two rays feeding those blueberry turnovers, which is this occasion we were greeted by a in such shallow water that their fins a meal in itself and always takes an friendly Pardalote as we entered the were rippling out of the water as they age to finish. “Mmmm, eat your heart moved along. Hindmarsh river boardwalk. The little out Homer, they don’t have those in remembrance garden in Port Elliott Our walk from the Goolwa Barrage Springfield.” overlooking Horseshoe Bay was a along the river bank to the Mouth and Our next walk was the final one in this moving experience, for I can’t help back was one of those funny days you Odyssey and involved walking past wondering why boys from the sunny, have sometimes. We religiously stayed Sturt’s Monument down McLeay Road isolated Port Elliott of 1914 should be close to shore and avoided any of the through a gate into a road reserve. obscenely dying in the mud of France black mud until, near the mouth, down We followed this track for about a at some British staff officer’s whim. we went up to our knees. Luckily we kilometre before following it in a 90 had taken our sandals off by then but degree turn to the left. We followed The walk from Port Elliott to Goolwa we looked as though we had long black this track through another gate onto was done in three stages. The first socks on. When we reached the mouth a gravel road to its conclusion at the one was from Port Elliott to Middleton we washed all of this off, but on the Mundoo Barrage, which is where this along the beach. This is best done at way back we went out of our way to low tide because the beach can be a avoid the mud. This was to no avail walk ended. From all of the signage on little narrow at times. The next section for down we went again, not quite as the fences and the warning from the was along the beach to a halfway deeply as before, but enough to still man at the Goolwa information centre it seemed prudent to stop here and point heading toward Goolwa Beach have long black socks on when we got take up the walk on the other side of and the next was back to that point back to the barrage. Tauwitcherie Barrage. This we did and from Goolwa Beach. Both times we Our next walk was from the barrage are now in the process of walking to were at Middleton there was a surfing through Goolwa, across the “Secret Mount Gambier along the coast, as the competition, which to an ageing surfer Women’s Business” bridge and onto geography permits. was a delight. One thing that surprised Hindmarsh Island. After a quick walk me was the large number of baby- down O’Connell Ave, it was back along Link walks are always interesting boomer surfers in the comp. Most of Randell Road and then down Captain because we walk in places not usually these surfers had long boards and were Sturt Parade. This is a lovely walk with walked and these are sometimes the a little pale and over fed, and either its views over the Lower Murray and best. Examples of this were the walk grey and/or bald. This is a different Lake Alexandra. The beach houses offer from the Barrage to the Murray Mouth, sight to the 1960’s when they were a sight into another way of life and the the walks to Mount Rapid, the walk tanned, skinny, blond and longhaired winery we stopped off at offered some along the shore and cliffs between or as Little Patty would have it -“Blond interesting cellar door sales, after this Selleck’s Beach and Carrickalinga, the headed, stompie wompie real gone we headed down Monument Road. walk across Hindmarsh Island and the surfer boys.” We had a look at Sturt’s Monument Onkaparinga Estuary. •

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 15 2008 Walk Programme 2007/2008 Summer Twilight Walk Programme 2008 Walk Season2008 Walk Programme Season Programme for the Friends for theof the Friends Heysen of theTrail Heysen Trail Instructions InstructionsInstructions November December January February MarchApril AprilMay JuneMay JuneJuly AugustJuly SeptemberAugust September October November October November • Styles have been set up for • Styles have been• set Styles up forhave been set up for Fri Oct 4 Fri Oct 4 Sun May 4 SunSun JuneMay 41 SunSun July June 6 1 SunSun July Aug 6 3 SunSun SeptAug 37 Sun Sept 7 Sun Nov 2 Sun Nov 2 Sun April 6 Sun April 6 everything - object styles for Walk to Mon Oct 6 to Mon Oct 6 everything - objecteverything styles for -Walk object styles for Walk Trailstarter Trailstarter TrailstarterTrailstarter TrailstarterTrailstarter Trailstarter WeekendTrailstarter Away WeekendWalk Rally Away Walk Rally Opening of the Opening of the coloured boxes, and paragraph Piccadilly PiccadillyTBA TBATBA TBATanunda BlackTanunda Hill BlackBurra Hill ParklandsBurra Parklandscoloured boxes, andcoloured paragraph boxes , and paragraph Wed Nov 7 Wed Dec 5 Wed Feb 6 Trail WalkWed SeasonMar 5 Trail Walk Season Starter Starter Steve Wilkinson stylesJamieSteve for WilkinsonShepherd Walk text ArrienneboxesJamie WynenShepherd ArrienneGavin WynenCampbell GavinDavid Campbell Beaton DavidSun OctBeaton 5 SunNic OctWait 5 Nic Wait styles for Walk textstyles boxes for Walk text boxes Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilightat Stirling Walk at Stirling Trailstarter Trailstarter Dry Creek Brownhill Ck Blackwood LinearTrailstarter Park SunTrailstarter May 4 SunSun JuneMay 41 SunSun July June 6 1 SunSun July Aug 6 3 Sun Aug 3 TBA TBA • enter all walks, use object style No Sun Sept 7 Sun Sept 7 • enter all walks, use• enter object all stylewalks, No use object style No George Adams Graham Connor David Beaton ArrienneMichael Parsons Wynen ArrienneTrailwalker Wynen Trailwalker TrailwalkerTrailwalker TrailwalkerTrailwalker Trailwalker David Beaton David Beaton walk when no walks or only one walk Trailwalker SunTrailwalker Oct 5 Sun Oct 5 walk when no walkswalk or whenonly one no walkswalk or only one walk

Trailwalker LavenderTrailwalker Lavender LavenderLavender LavenderLavender Father’s Day Lavender Father’s Day of month of month of month 1st Week 1st Week 1st Week Deep Creek DeepTrailwalker Creek Trailwalker Trail Simon CameronTrail FederationSimon Cameron Trail on Federationa weekend Trail FederationFederation Trail Trail FederationFederation Trail Trail Federation Trail on a weekend on a weekend Walker Walker Ray Blight RayTBA Blight TBA George Adams George Adams GeorgeGeorge Adams Adams GeorgeGeorge Adams Adams George Adams Weekend Long October TBA Weekend Long October TBA • Adjust green boxes to cover the 5th (Bookings pending) (Bookings pending) • Adjust green boxes• Adjust to cover green the boxes 5th to cover the 5th Kokoda Track Kokoda Track Easter Easter Sun April 13 SunSun May April 11 13 weekSun when MayJune 11 no8 5th SundaySunSun July June of 13 the8 Sun JulyAug 1013 SunSun Aug Sept 10 14 SunSun SeptOct 1214 SunSun OctNov 12 9 Sun Nov 9week when no 5thweek Sunday when of theno 5th Sunday of the Trailstarter TrailstarterTrailstarter Trailstarter TrailstarterTrailstarter Trailstarter TrailstarterTrailstarter Trailstarter TrailstarterTBA TBA Cox’s Scrub Cox’sBelair Scrub month.BelairTBA Use these greenHale ConboxesTBA Pk to HaleMack Con Creek Pk MackMt PleasantCreek Anstey’sMt Pleasant Hill Anstey’sTBA Hill TBA month. Use these month.green boxes Use these to green boxes to

Wed Dec 12 Trail Trail Wed Nov 14 Wed Jan 9 Wed Feb 13 Wed Mar 12 Twilight Walk Starter Michelle Foster Starter DavidMichelle Beaton Foster ManuelaDavid Beaton Vida RobynManuela Quinn Vida MikeRobyn Parsons Quinn MikeGraham Parsons Parham Graham Parham GrahamGavin Campbell Parham Gavin Campbell Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilight Walk display the Key and Logo display the Key anddisplay Logo the Key and Logo

Belair – Away Trip – Away Trip Sturt Gorge Foothills Seacliff Stirling National Park Simon Cameron J Dow Robyn Quinn SunLiz April Barry 13 SunSun May April 11 13 • UpdateSun MayJunethe 11 Release8 dateSunSun July inJune the13 8 Sun JulyAug 1013 SunSun Aug Sept 10 14 SunSun SeptOct 1214 Sun Oct 12 • Update the Release• Update date inthe the Release date in the Ray Blight

Trailwalker TrailwalkerTrailwalker Trailwalker TrailwalkerTrailwalker July 6 to 17 Trailwalker July 6 to 17 TrailwalkerTrailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker (Fully booked) (Fully booked) bottom right (Fully booked) (Fully booked) bottom right bottom right Mother’s Day Mother’s Day of month of month of month 2nd Week 2nd Week Onkaparinga2nd Week Gorge OnkaparingaMt Misery Gorge MtTBA Misery Mt HayfiTBA eld Mt HayfiTBA eld TBAAldgate MtAldgate Crawford Mt Crawford Trail Trail (Fully booked) (Fully booked) Walker Richard Milosh Walker RichardRichard Milosh Milosh RichardBob Randall Milosh LynBob Wood Randall JamieLyn Shephard Wood JamieGavin Shephard Campbell GavinChris Campbell Caspar Chris Caspar

• to June Long Weekend create a mono versionJune Long Weekend on fi le, • to create a mono• version to create on a fi monole, version on fi le,

Kokoda Track when colour fi le isKokoda Track 100%Sun fi Julynished, 20 Sun July 20 Sun Sept 21 Sun Sept 21 when colour fi le iswhen 100% colour fi nished, fi le is 100% fi nished, Sun April 20 SunSun May April 18 20 SunSun JuneMay 1815 Sun June 15 Sun Aug 17 Sun Aug 17 Sun Oct 19 SunSun NovOct 1916 Sun Nov 16 Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TrailstarterTrailstarter createTrailstarter a duplicated ofTrailstarter the fi le, then Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TrailstarterTBA TBA create a duplicatedcreate of the a fiduplicated le, then of the fi le, then Mt Torrens Mt Torrens Wistow Wistow Brownhill Creek BrownhillMt Misery Creek MtMt Compass Misery Mt Compass Bakers Gully Bakers Gully Brownhill Creek BrownhillTBA Creek TBA Trail Wed Mar 19 Trail delete the object style group called delete the object styledelete group the objectcalled style group called Wed Nov 21 Wed Dec 19 Wed Jan 16 Wed Feb 20 Sue Scott/ Sue Scott/ Sandy Melbourne/ Sandy Melbourne/ Starter TwilightLyn Wood Walk Starter ChrisLyn Caspar Wood MikeChris ParsonsCaspar Mike Parsons Nic Wait Nic Wait Colin Edwards ArrienneColin Edwards Wynen Arrienne Wynen Red Range to Parachilna Gorge (6 hikes) Red Range to Parachilna Gorge (6 hikes) Red Range to Dutchmans Stern to Red Range (7 hikes) Stern to Dutchmans Michelle Edwards Red Range (7 hikes) Stern to Dutchmans Michelle Edwards Rosie Gubbins Rosie Gubbins

Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Colour version (CMYK) - follow Colour version (CMYK)Colour - followversion (CMYK) - follow

North Adelaide – Away Trip – Away Trip River Walk Anstey Hill Shepherds Hill West Lakes Sat Oct 18 – Sun Oct 19Sat Oct 18 – Sun Oct 19 SunParkklands April 20 SunSun May April 18 20 promptsSunSun JuneMay and 1815 replaceSun eachSun June Julycolour 15 20 SunSun Aug July 17 20 SunSun Aug Sept 17 21 Sun Sept 21 prompts and replaceprompts each colourand replace each colour Chris Caspar Robert Alcock Rhonda Dempster Arrienne Wynen May 11 to 22 May 11 to 22 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 GavinTrailwalker Campbell TrailwalkerTrailwalker objectTrailwalker style with its MonoTrailwalkerTrailwalker version TrailwalkerTrailwalker TrailwalkerTrailwalker Trailwalker to Hamilton Kapunda to Hamilton object style with itsobject Mono style version with its Mono version of month of month of month Sat Aug 9 to Sun 17 Sat Aug 9 to Sun 17 3rd Week 3rd Week 3rd Week Waitpinga ScottWaitpinga Creek KaiserScott Creek Stuhl Sat June 7 to Sun Jun 15 KaiserCastambul Stuhl Sat June 7 to Sun Jun 15 NorthernCastambul NorthernTBA TBA Trail Trail (grayscale) object style equivalent to Peters Hill to Peters Hill (grayscale) object(grayscale) style equivalent object style equivalent Walker Ray Blight Walker SimonRay Cameron Blight SimonRay CameronBlight RayColin Blight Edwards BobColin Randall Edwards Bob RandallTBA TBA Group 1 Group 1 End-to-End 2 – End-to-End 2 – End-to-End 2 – End-to-End 2 – • FinalSun thing June to 22 do is to replaceSun June logo 22 • Final thing to do• is Final to replace thing to logo do is to replace logo Sun April 27 SunSun AprilMay 2527 Sun May 25 Sun July 27 Sun JulyAug 2427 SunSun SeptAug 2428 SunSun SeptOct 2628 SunSun NovOct 2623 Sun Nov 23 with grayscaleTrailstarter version -Trailstarter then fi le Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TrailstarterTBA TBA with grayscale versionwith grayscale- then fi le version - then fi le Wistow Wistow Brighton RockyBrighton Creek, Kuitpo isRocky ready Creek, to included Kuitpo in TrailwalkerTBA TBA MorialtaTBA MorialtaTBA TBA TBA is ready to includedis readyin Trailwalker to included in Trailwalker

Wed Nov 28 Wed Jan 23 Trail Trail Wed Feb 27 Sandy Melbourne/ Sandy Melbourne/ Twilight Walk Twilight Walk Starter Richard Milosh Starter RichardLiz Barry Milosh Liz Barry Chris Caspar ChrisTBA Caspar LynTBA Wood LynTBA Wood TBA TBA Twilight Walk magazineRosie Gibbons Rosie Gibbons magazine magazine Marino Rocks Torrens Hackney Sat Oct 25 – Sun Oct 26Sat Oct 25 – Sun Oct 26 to Hallett Cove Linear Park Thu April 24 ThuSun AprilMay 2524 SunSun JuneMay 2522 SunSun JuneJuly 2722 Sun JulyAug 2427 SunSun SeptAug 2428 Sun Sept 28 Manuela Vida End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 Steve Wilkinson Lyn Wood to Sun Apr 27 toEnd-to-End Sun Apr 273 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 Kapunda to Hamilton Kapunda to Hamilton of month of month of month 4th Week 4th Week 4th Week Weekend Away CudleeWeekend Creek Away CudleeNugget Creek Rd MtNugget Crawford Rd PewseyMt Crawford Vale PewseyTanunda Vale Tanunda Trail Trail to Peters Hill to Peters Hill

Walker Grampians Walker toGrampians Nugget Rd toto Mt Nugget Crawford Rd to PewseyMt Crawford Vale toto Pewsey Tanunda Vale to KapundaTanunda to Kapunda Group 2 Group 2 Anzac Day Long Weekend Anzac Day Long Weekend Anzac Day Long Sun June 29 Sun June 29 Sun Aug 31 Sun Aug 31 Key to Walk ProgrammeKey to Walk ProgrammeTrailstarter Trailstarter The Friends of Trailstarter Trailstarter The Friends of The Friends of Waite Cons. Park Waite Cons. Park Trail Starter walk Trail Starter walk TBA TBA

theTrail Heysen TrailTrail the Heysen Trailthe Heysen Trail Wed Jan 30 Rhonda Dempster/ Rhonda Dempster/ More Details Starter Starter Arrienne Wynen Arrienne Wynen Twilight Walk 10 Pitt Street AdelaideTrail 5000 Walker walk Trail Walker walkRalene Shaw Ralene Shaw 10 Pitt Street Adelaide 500010 Pitt Street Adelaide 5000 An explanation of walk grades and details for Chambers Gully End-to-End walk End-to-End walkSun June 29 Sun June 29 Phone 08 8212 6299 Sun Aug 31 Sun Aug 31 Phone 08 8212 6299 Phone 08 8212 6299 each walk event are published on the website Nic Wait Trailwalker Trailwalker www.heysentrail.asn.auOther walk event Other walk event Trailwalker Trailwalker www.heysentrail.asn.au www.heysentrail.asn.au Pioneer Womens Pioneer Womens of month of month of month 5th Week 5th Week 5th Week TBA TBA Trail An explanation of walkTrail gradesAn explanation and details of walkfor grades andWalk details for Walk

Walker Walker Ben Wait Ben Wait This version releasedeach 23 January walk event 2008 are publishedeach walk on theevent website are publishedRichard on the Milosh website Richard Milosh This version released 5This February version 2008 released 5 February 2008

Walk Grades There are five different grades of walk on the Friends of the Heysen Registering for Walks Trail walk programme. Four of these operate during the walk season, generally from April to November when it is not Fire Ban Season: You must register for a walk, either • Trail Starter online or over the phone. • Trail Walker • Trail Rambler Register online (by Wed prior please) • End-to-End at www.heysentrail.asn.au, When it is not walk season, generally during the summer Fire Ban or by phone the office on 8212 6299 Season, a fifth walk grade, Summer Twilight Walks, operate. (during the hours listed on page 3). Details of each walk grade are provided on the website.

16 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 2007 Walk Programme

2008 Walk Season Programme for the Friends of the Heysen Trail Instructions April May June July August September October November Appropriate Clothing All walks are• subject Styles to you have wearing been appropriate set up clothing. for Prime Fri Oct 4 Sun May 4 Sun June 1 Sun July 6 Sun Aug 3 Sun Sept 7 Sun Nov 2 considerations are warmth and weather protection. Your safety Sun April 6 to Mon Oct 6 everything - object styles for Walk Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Weekend Away Walk Rally and the safety of the walking group can be jeopardised by you Opening of the Piccadilly TBA TBA Tanunda Black Hill Burra Parklands coloured boxes, and paragraph Trail Walk Season wearing inappropriate clothing. In an emergency situation it can Starter Steve Wilkinson Jamie Shepherd Arrienne Wynen Gavin Campbell David Beaton Sun Oct 5 Nic Wait take hours to evacuatestyles a forsick orWalk injured text walker. boxes Leaders may not at Stirling Trailstarter accept people for a walk who have not come appropriately dressed Trailstarter Sun May 4 Sun June 1 Sun July 6 Sun Aug 3 TBA Sun Sept 7 or prepared.• enter all walks, use object style No Arrienne Wynen Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker David Beaton Trailwalker Sun Oct 5 walk when no walks or only one walk

Trailwalker Lavender Lavender Lavender Lavender Father’s Day of month 1st Week Deep Creek Trailwalker Trail Simon Cameron Federation Trail Federation Trail Federation Trail Federation Trail on a weekend Walker Ray Blight TBA George Adams George Adams George Adams George Adams Weekend Long October TBA What to Wear (Bookings pending) • Adjust green boxes to cover the 5th Kokoda Track

Easter Sun April 13 Sun May 11 Sun June 8 Sun July 13 Sun Aug 10 Sun Sept 14 Sun Oct 12 Sun Nov 9 • Good walkingweek shoes, whenor boots, no with 5th grip soles.Sunday Thongs, of the Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA sandals, elastic-sided boots and smooth-soled sneakers Cox’s Scrub Belair TBA Hale Con Pk Mack Creek Mt Pleasant Anstey’s Hill TBA are not appropriatemonth. Use these green boxes to Trail

Starter Michelle Foster David Beaton Manuela Vida Robyn Quinn Mike Parsons Graham Parham Graham Parham Gavin Campbell • Thick socks display the Key and Logo

Trip Away – Away Trip • Wet weather gear - a three quarter length waterproof rain jacket Sun April 13 Sun May 11 Sun June 8 Sun July 13 Sun Aug 10 Sun Sept 14 Sun Oct 12 is ideal (showerproof• Update spray the jackets Release and quilted date parkas in theare not

Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker July 6 to 17 Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker

(Fully booked) waterproof and create a danger of hypothermia) (Fully booked) bottom right Mother’s Day of month

2nd Week Onkaparinga Gorge Mt Misery TBA Mt Hayfi eld TBA Aldgate Mt Crawford • A warm jumper or jacket of wool/polyester fleece. Cotton Trail (Fully booked) Walker Richard Milosh Richard Milosh Bob Randall Lyn Wood Jamie Shephard Gavin Campbell Chris Caspar shirts and windcheaters have minimum insulation when wet June Long Weekend • to create a mono version on fi le, and retain water Kokoda Track Sun July 20 Sun Sept 21 when colour fi le is 100% fi nished, Sun April 20 Sun May 18 Sun June 15 Sun Aug 17 Sun Oct 19 Sun Nov 16 • Shorts, loose comfortable wool or synthetic pants (jeans are not Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA suitable as theycreate are cold a when duplicated wet and dry of slowly the fi le, then Mt Torrens Wistow Brownhill Creek Mt Misery Mt Compass Bakers Gully Brownhill Creek TBA • Shade hat and sunscreen in warmer weather. Warm hat/beanie Trail Sue Scott/ Sandy Melbourne/ delete the object style group called Starter Lyn Wood Chris Caspar Mike Parsons Nic Wait Colin Edwards Arrienne Wynen in cooler weather Red Range to Parachilna Gorge (6 hikes) Red Range to Dutchmans Stern to Red Range (7 hikes) Stern to Dutchmans Michelle Edwards Rosie Gubbins

Colour version (CMYK) - follow Trip Away – Away Trip Sat Oct 18 – Sun Oct 19 Sun April 20 Sun May 18 Sun June 15 Sun July 20 Sun Aug 17 Sun Sept 21 The above list isprompts for Twilight andWalks, replace Trail Starter each and Trail colour Rambler May 11 to 22 End-to-End 3 Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker Trailwalker walks. For Trail Walker and End-to-End walks, in addition to the Kapunda to Hamilton object style with its Mono version of month Sat Aug 9 to Sun 17

3rd Week above list, please also consider bringing: Waitpinga Scott Creek Kaiser Stuhl Sat June 7 to Sun Jun 15 Northern TBA Trail to Peters Hill (grayscale) object style equivalent Walker Ray Blight Simon Cameron Ray Blight Colin Edwards Bob Randall TBA Group 1 • Thermal underwear End-to-End 2 – End-to-End 2 – • Waterproof over-trousers Sun June 22 • Final thing to do is to replace logo Sun April 27 Sun May 25 Sun July 27 Sun Aug 24 Sun Sept 28 Sun Oct 26 Sun Nov 23 Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter Trailstarter TBA with grayscale version - then fi le Wistow Brighton Rocky Creek, Kuitpo TBA TBA Morialta TBA TBA is ready to included in Trailwalker Trail Sandy Melbourne/ What to Bring Starter Richard Milosh Liz Barry Chris Caspar TBA Lyn Wood TBA TBA Rosie Gibbons magazine • Basic First Aid and Emergency Kit containing: Sat Oct 25 – Sun Oct 26 Thu April 24 Sun May 25 Sun June 22 Sun July 27 Sun Aug 24 Sun Sept 28 • UV sunblock, throat lozenges, lip salve and paracetamol End-to-End 3 to Sun Apr 27 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 End-to-End 3 • Insect repellant Kapunda to Hamilton of month 4th Week Weekend Away Nugget Rd Mt Crawford Pewsey Vale Tanunda Trail to Peters Hill • Torch

Walker Grampians to Nugget Rd to Mt Crawford to Pewsey Vale to Tanunda to Kapunda Group 2 • Lunch and snacks (include some for emergency) Anzac Day Long Weekend Anzac Day Long • Plastic bag for rubbish Sun June 29 Sun Aug 31 • Water in a secure container; minimum one litre, and two litres if Key to Walk Programme Trailstarter Trailstarter The Friends of the temperature will be over 20°C Waite Cons. Park Trail Starter walk TBA • Gear should be carried in a day pack; one with a supporting Trail Rhonda Dempster/ the Heysen Trail Starter Arrienne Wynen waist belt is recommended Trail Walker walk Ralene Shaw 10 Pitt Street Adelaide 5000 End-to-End walk Sun June 29 Sun Aug 31 Phone 08 8212 6299 The above list is for Twilight Walks, Trail Starter and Trail Rambler Trailwalker Other walk event Trailwalker www.heysentrail.asn.au walks. For Trail Walker and End-to-End walks, in addition to the Pioneer Womens of month

5th Week TBA above list, please also bring: Trail An explanation of walk grades and details for Walk

Walker Ben Wait each walk event are published on the website Richard Milosh This version released 5 February 2008 • Whistle • Wide elastic bandage and triangular bandage with safety pins Walk Cancellations Walks are cancelled if the broadcasted forecast is for temperatures Further Information over 32°C. For simplicity, this can be determined the night prior to the walk on the 7pm ABC evening news weather forecast, based upon Further information about the Bureau of Meteorology’s routine 4pm forecast. Even if the forecast each walk, walk grades and is later revised, the walk remains cancelled. End-to-End walks will be rescheduled to the following month. This doesn’t apply to Summer Frequently Asked Questions Twilight Walks. are available on the website If unforseen circumstances arise and you are no longer able to (www.heysentrail.asn.au/walks) participate in the walk, please notify the office as soon as possible, preferably by 4pm Friday, or leave a message on the answering machine after this time.

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 17 Hiking in New Zealand Greenstone and Caples Valleys

By Russell O’Brien Located on the shore of Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown is a great base for some of the best extended walks available on New Zealand’s South Island. In early January 2008, the combined Greenstone and Caples Valleys was the walk of choice for my wife and me, and two friends.

By combining the Greenstone and Water availability and quality is always shuttle bus then takes walkers to the Caples tracks, the walk route begins at the forefront of bushwalkers’ minds. Glenorchy jetty, where a high speed and ends at the Greenstone car park DOC warns that water may not be boat ferries you across Lake Wakatipu and shelter. Either track can also be safe to drink but if you use common to the Greenstone jetty. Finally, a walked in conjunction with another sense and take reasonable precautions second shuttle bus takes you to the of New Zealand’s Great Walks, the water can be taken from hut tanks as Greenstone car park and shelter. In all Routeburn. well as from some streams. Obviously, the trip takes about 90 minutes. the water to avoid is that which may Maps and other information, such as have had any contact with animals. If weather forecasts, were obtained at in any doubt about water quality boil the very informative DOC (Department the water for a minimum of 5 minutes, As is the case with of Conservation) office in Queenstown. but ideally for 10 minutes. That said, many climbs, waiting Since we intended to sleep in DOC there is nothing more pleasurable than huts or to use hut facilities a fee catching and drinking refreshingly cool at the top is a needed to be paid. However, paying to water that has fallen from a fifty metre wonderful view and sleep in DOC huts doesn’t guarantee a waterfall. bunk so a two person tent was packed somewhere flat to along with self-inflating mattresses. Arranging to get to the start of the have a cup of tea. If you don’t purchase sufficient hut track and back again at the end of tickets before the walk payment can the walk is as easy as booking with be made to DOC hut wardens along a backpacker transport service in Having decided to walk the the track. While not every hut houses Queenstown. That trip is an adventure Greenstone track first our initial a warden they are frequently seen at in itself, beginning with a bus journey destination was the Greenstone Hut. huts or along the track. from Queenstown to Glenorchy. A DOC’s advised time for this leg of the walk is between 3 and 5 hours (approximately 10 kms). Five hours might sound excessive for such a distance but walking is a gradual climb, the pack is at its heaviest and, if you like taking photographs, there is ample subject matter. Sited on the opposite side of the river and accessed by bridge over a gorge, Greenstone Hut is new, beautifully sited and accommodates 20 people. It also has flushing toilets!

If you have not stayed in track huts the experience is well worth it. Adjusting to hut life is generally quite easy but tolerance is a key factor for success. In addition to shelter, huts provide an ideal environment for information sharing among walkers. Our group Rhelma Stewart, Keith Lees, Chris O’Brien and had decided to stay two nights at Russell O’Brien rest at McKellar Saddle

18 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Hiking in New Zealand

Greenstone Valley this hut in order to walk part of the 12 people and is accessed across the Although, according to the map, Mavora Walkway on the second day. river by a swing bridge. While not as the next section of the walk is This proved to be a lucky decision well appointed as the Greenstone Hut, approximately 12 kms it involves because rain started falling overnight McKellar offers welcoming respite at a challenging 400 metre climb to and continued until shortly before the end of a long day’s walk. McKellar Saddle. This very steep climb lunch the next day. However, although we escaped rain on this occasion, it is worth saying that rain is an integral part of bushwalking, as all serious bushwalkers are aware, and makes for even better photographs once it has finished!

The next part of the track is reasonably long at 17 kms (4.5 to 6.5 hours) and consists of open cattle grazing areas and forests. Given that the track follows the Greenstone River, some boggy sections are inevitable. Speaking of inevitable, New Zealand’s sand flies are tenacious and unrelenting. Their bite stings and, in most cases, leaves an obvious circular red mark at the bite site which can remain itchy for a few days. To do battle with these nasty little critters cover up as much as possible and take along an insect repellent and either antihistamine tablets or cream.

McKellar Hut is the usual destination for most walkers at the end of this section of the track. It accommodates Map adapted from Department of Conservation park map (Fiordland map 273-03 Scale 1:255,000 Edition 5, 2004)

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 19 Hiking in New Zealand walk the remaining 8 km while the day was young. Heavy rain was expected to begin falling overnight and a number of creeks entering the Caples River needed to be crossed. In a matter of hours water run-off from the mountains during and after rain can turn ankle deep crossings into thigh deep hazards. The warden had cautioned us to plan on staying in the hut for an additional day in the event of extended heavy rain. Fortunately, the heavy rain did not eventuate but as there had been rain overnight we chose to err on the side of caution.

The easy walk to the confluence of the Greenstone and Caples Rivers was achieved in approximately 2 hours with the walk out to the Greenstone Upper Caples Hut car park and shelter a further 30 minutes. In our case, this part of the involves navigating boulders and tree enjoying taking our time we were walk was done in low cloud conditions roots at a speed that suits the physical quite relaxed about having a further and with just a little rain. The track characteristics of the walker. stopover. Accommodating 12 people, passes through bush and grassed river the hut is perched on a high point flats used by farmers for sheep and As is the case with many climbs, looking up the Caples Valley and is cattle grazing. In addition to more waiting at the top is a wonderful view adjacent to an impressive, deep and beautiful scenery, we saw a range and somewhere flat to have a cup of narrow gorge through which roars of bird life and deer providing yet tea. After the board-walked crossing the compressed Caples River. The another welcome experience along this of the saddle a slow descent through gorge is spanned by a bridge but there fantastic walk. beech forest is one of the prettiest are numerous vantage points from walks that I have ever experienced. which to view this awesome display More information about this and The suggested time for the 12 km walk of nature. The valley offers spectacular other New Zealand walks can is between 5 and 8 hours but with scenery in every direction. be found on the DOC website at rest breaks, photographs and simply www.doc.govt.nz • taking time to soak in the beauty of the Having met and chatted to a DOC hut area the longer time is more realistic. warden en route about the weather The forest floor is heavily covered prospects for the next day we chose with leaf-fall and consequently a track to pack up shortly after dawn and is rarely evident. While the route is marked with orange triangles (the official NZ standard for walking tracks) care needs to be taken. The forest is quite thick and walker alertness to the next marker is imperative. Even in good weather conditions it was a task that required vigilance.

At the end of the day’s walk the 12 bunk Upper Caples Hut is a welcome sight. The hut and environs was, at the time of our visit, unfortunately smitten with sand flies in almost plague proportions. We opted for the privacy, peace and refuge of the tent for a well- earned rest.

The distance to the next hut, Mid Caples, is just 6 kms and takes approximately two hours to complete. Most walkers choose to return to the Greenstone car park and shelter rather than stay at the Mid Caples Hut but being not-so-young bushwalkers and Caples Valley

20 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Walking Holidays with the Friends of the Heysen Trail

The Friends of the Heysen Trail Grand Traverse with Kirra Tours Ex Adelaide 7th to 16th March 2009 $2,670 including airfares 75km combining the Alpine scenery of the Routeburn Track with the tranquility of the Greenstone Valley. Fully guided, staying in lodges with all meals provided. Contact KTI Travel on 1800 007 373 and quote reference number 28PPJ

The Friends of the Heysen Trail The Friends of the Heysen Trail Southern Tasmania Walking in the Grampians with Exploranges Anzac Long Weekend Mon 1st Dec to Fri 12 Dec 2008 Fri 25 Apr to Sun 27 April 2008 $2,250 ex Hobart A beautiful part of Victoria offering a wide range of walks led by Simon Cameron, both Trailstarter Day walking Mt Field, Tasman Peninsula, and Trailwalker graded walks available. Bruny Island and South East Cape. Price includes meals and accommodation. Staying at the Baptist Camp in Halls Gap. Bunk style accommodation, self contained units available for extra Contact Exploranges Bushwalking Tours cost. Accommodation available from Thursday night and on (08) 8369 1779 can be extended to include Sunday night if desired. $200 per person with a deposit of $20 on booking. All meals and soft drinks included. Bring own linen. Further info and booking through the Friends of the Heysen Trail office (8212 6299).

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 21 An Update On The Trail - ARTS Project

By Catherine Murphy In September and October last year, Catherine Murphy (writer) and Italo Vardaro (photographer) held a series of consultation meetings with members of communities along the Heysen Trail about the proposed On the Trail arts project (article in previous Trailwalker).

These meetings confirmed communities They traveled with equipment for a Trail will aim to awaken walkers to the interest in participating in an arts and power-point presentation about some fragile beauty of nature and of art, as writing project (2008-2009) about the of the writing and visual arts projects well as to some of the darker issues historical and contemporary importance they’ve worked on in the past which of human impacts on environments. of the Heysen Trail. The trips were established a useful context for people Varied compositional effects can be funded by Country Arts SA with at the meetings to consider an arts achieved in response to available additional support from Department for project along the walking trail. natural materials, the local ecology and Environment and Heritage, Forestry SA landscape forms and environments. and Friends of the Heysen Trail. While the small amount of project Works may explore movement, funding limited their ability to meet seasonal cycles, light, life, energy, more widely with communities growth and decay. along the length of the Heysen Trail, Catherine and Italo are wishing to One idea which emerged from the involve as many communities as consultation meetings included possible. So, if they didn’t visit your the possibility of a collaboration community and you are interested, between an artist from ’s please contact them: candc@internode. home town of Hahndorf and a local on.net or [email protected] indigenous artist and/or a local European artist from Hawker or another On their return to Adelaide they met of the Flinders Ranges towns–the with members of Friends and DEH to landscapes Sir Hans loved to visit discuss the next stage of their search Arthur Simpson, member of the Burra and to paint. walking group, at Tourilie Gorge for project funding. They’re currently working with an experienced member During their travels last year, Italo and of an advertising team to produce Catherine were also approached for Catherine and Italo travelled to Burra, a ‘prospectus’ with which they radio interviews about the project from Hawker, Hahndorf, Port Elliot and hope to raise interest in public and 5UV, Regional ABC in Port Pirie and the Goolwa where advance publicity private sponsorship. Bald Brothers ABC morning state-wide through their On the Trail leaflet etc, program. These live to air interviews brought together local representatives On The Trail project will invite some of gave a publicity boost to the Heysen of: visual artists, environmentalists, South Australia’s leading contemporary Trail as well as to the arts project. tourism operators, state and local environmental artists to work with local • Government workers, land owners, artists and communities to interpret, trail walkers, maintenance section and to celebrate the Heysen Trail. leaders and members of local flora and The impermanent or ephemeral art fauna groups. works produced at points along the All photos by Italo Vardaro

At the Port Elliot Institute (l to r front In the Hawker CWA Hall (l to r) Tony One of the Burra consultation groups row) Keneatha Pick, Wendy Jennings, Smith, Catherine Murphy, Pat McCourt, in the Library (l to r) Kate Burton, Betty Gregory, - , Pamela and Geoffrey Jeff Morgan, Janet Teague, George Kirstie Jamieson, Hugh Greenhill Gardner, Chris Halstead; (back row) Abrams, Pat Wiseman, Janice McInnis Catherine Murphy and Paul Jennings

22 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Walking the northern section of the Trail Heysen Trail Meanders

By John Lindner, Bendigo Bushwalkers Over the last 3 years, a small group of walkers from Bendigo - members of the Bendigo Bushwalkers and the Bendigo Outdoor Club - have embarked on the project of completing the Heysen Trail at a rate of about 200km a year.

Of course the recent publication of magestic summit of Mount Aleck the party even refused to diverge to the two guidebooks has assisted this (not clibmbed yet), the ramparts of climb the sacred mountain which had quite substantially, but we still find the on the climb to Black lured us for so long - they just wanted old strip maps useful. Nevertheless, Gap and then more wide valleys to to stop at all costs. Highlights were the the planning of the daily walking Trezona and Aroona before the final stages was quite complex, and a little leg in the shadow of the Heysen hit and miss when you have no prior Range. It is always exciting to me This track wanders off knowledge of the country. that a huge geological sculpture like Wilpena Pound, which perhaps tantalizingly, and you The lure of the long distance walk - I could so easily be a landscape cliché suddenly realise you first saw the Heysen Trail when we due to its overuse in so many visual are on the threshold of were driving the Brachina Gorge formats, never fails to exert a sense of Geological Trail in July, 2004. This wonder and power. The quality of the what could be a great 20 kilometre transect through 150 walking experience on this section was adventure: where million years of depositional sequences unsurpassed, and we think we might has it come from and is geological interpretation at its take a “break” in 2008 and do it again. most exciting. where is it going? In August 2006 we walked from Just south of Trezona campground, in Hawker to Mambray Creek, Mount the flat country where Brachina and Remarkable National park (192km, Yourambulla Range just out of Hawker, Elatine Creeks join, marker number 4 17 days). This was an exceptionally the huge Willochra Creek valley, for the trail describes the 600 million arduous section and nearing the end, Buckaringa Gorge with its enchanting year old siltstones and shales of the Brachine Formation. In taking a short walk to a site a little south of the road, you find yourself on a narrow foot track. This track wanders off tantalizingly, and you suddenly realise you are on the threshold of what could be a great adventure: where has it come from and where is it going? At that moment the germ of the idea was hatched, and three years later we have come half way to Cape Jervis from Parachilna Gorge.

In July 2005 we walked from Hawker to Parachilna Gorge (114km, 11 days), with a car meeting us at intervals to resupply food and water. However rendezvousing with a vehicle has its logistical problems and it changes the “feel” of long pack-carrying walk in unexpected ways. This section has The essential and entrancing Flinders Ranges, waves or rock arcing away into the distance. This view is valleys full of Callitris pine, grand from the northern end of the Heysen Range near Parachilna Gorge, and shows the distant and quite River Red Gums on the creeks, the low ABC Range (upper left corner). The trail is located in the valley between these two ranges.

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 23 Heysen Trail Meanders Yellow-Footed Rock Wallabies and awesome geology, the Mount Arden Range, Eyre Depot with its monument to so many passing early explorers, Dutchmans Stern, Mount Brown and Alligator Gorge. We cached food and water depots before we began walking and had no back-up vehicle. The whole feel of the walk was quite different, as we just had to solve any problems that arose ourselves. On this remote section we met only a small group from Adelaide who were nearing the end of their own Heysen Trail odyssey, comprising a long series of day walks. They very thoughtfully left us some cans of beer at our Eyre Depot water cache.

In September and October 2007, John Lindner sits in front of huge stromatolite fossils, up to one metre wide and 630 million years old, we walked from Spalding to in the Trezona Formation just near Old Elatina Hut ruin. The fine layers are the result of inorganic debris, such as sand and mud, being deposited on the successive gum-like mats produced by cyanobacteria Melrose (180km, 14 days). This was a completely different walking experience, being largely through a before the walk: our depots were 1860’s and 1870’s. In passing through human modified landscape, with its concealed under piles of rocks, in the townships, visiting local museums, vast areas of crops (wheat, barley, hollow trees and stumps and in holes talking to farmers and reading of canola, fava beans, field peas, lupins), in the ground, and we made quite formal interpretive material, your extensive grazing lands, managed sure noboby would find them. A understanding of this sweeping and productive landscape is enriched and forests and water havesting schemes. friend asked me whether we took a deepened. This becomes an essential We again cached our food and water GPS reading for each one - I assured him that when your life depended on part of the walking experience. it you did not forget where such vital supplies were hidden.

The central spine of the Flinders Ranges and the provides the unifying geological The demanding theme of the Heysen Trail. Its geology, physical aspect of a landforms, drainage systems and vegetation, very different from those long walk compels in Victoria, provide endless scope you to simplify life, for investigation. South Australia also surely one of its most Old scarifier located at “Yandowie” on a rich has a unique history of land survey and very productive part of Never Never Creek. (the imposed pattern of Counties and attractive aspects The remains of such agriculture equipment Hundreds), township delveopment, (“the ploughs that broke the plains”) are found at intervals along the trail and are constant pastoralism and agriculture, especially reminders of the agricultural heritage of the area. the latter’s great expansion in the

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24 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Heysen Trail Meanders I have always found that such walks bring about changes in yourself. While you may acquire new knowledge about a region, you are also constantly challenged: “Why are we doing this?”, “What is the essence, indeed the compulsion, of the trail, behind, now and ahead?” Although these may appear simple questions, they have Ruins of an extensive farming settlement changing perspectives and are full at Bundaleer Gardens on Never Never of promise even if they have no final Creek. They included a main house, a partly “answers”. A long walk is a journey, underground cellar, and barns and sheds. This evocative place was a testimony to the a quest for a new outlook, with hard work of the early settlers. fundamental physical and spiritual dimensions. To undertake such a walk merely to be able to return and proclaim to others that you did it is A long stint on the Heysen Trail hardly adequate as a motive. may become an important part of Landscape is not just scenery. It the development of a philosophy These wonderful bush posts were part of of walking or outdoor living. The obviously has a spatial dimension what we called “Woodhenge”, the remains of demanding physical aspect of a as you grapple with landforms, a large stock yard on the south side of Mount topography, vegetation cover and Brown in the beautiful woodland at the long walk compels you to simplify water availability. You examine and headwaters of Mount Brown Creek. life, surely one of its most attractive re-examine many notable points aspects: you must get a good rest each and achievements of former periods from other points as you make your night, eat well, drink plenty, have a (buildings, farming technology, water steady progress. Crossing landscape harvesting and storage, forestry), but daily bowel motion, understand where has depth in time. There are daily you try to understand the pressing you are going and how long it will changes in weather conditions. It is an challenges of the future (population take, and above all, co-operate as a imaginative encounter with the past decline, consolidation of land holdings, mutually supportive group of people as you unravel a spool of previous climate changes, the future of with common aims. Ordinary civilised human experience, using the evidence cropping). There are endless mysteries life is just jammed up, cluttered and of occupation, impacts and artefacts. and stories, mostly half-finished or trivial by comparison. You not only recreate the struggles hinted at, some fully explained. •

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Trailwalker Autumn 2008 25 Walking in Europe Tour du Mont Blanc

By Nick Langsford The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is one of the world’s classic long-distance walks and certainly one of the most popular. It is a circular route around a discrete geological block, the Mont Blanc Massif, passing through France, Italy and Switzerland.

There are many variants; the one we not the panoramas of snow capped views all the way. This was a feature did was the 130km Sherpa route, peaks expected. After a short walk of the walk, in that almost each day with 9 days walking and 3 rest days. across the rack railway and a turn to we crossed a saddle (col) giving both Sherpa provide a set of 1; 25000 topo the east, there they were - tier upon steep climbs/descents and spectacular maps and detailed track notes. The tier of snowcapped alpine peaks. views. A notably steep descent to accommodation they organized was This was almost the best moment of lunch at the Chalets de Miage gave excellent, and a highlight of the trip. the walk! us our first exposure to the local We did the walk between 01 to13 July hiker’s water supply - ice cold glacier 2006. The weather was fine apart from water spurting from a black plastic one very wet day; almost too hot at Lunch at the Chalets de pipe. These drinks were always very times. welcome. Miage gave us our first As one would imagine, the Alpine exposure to the local A less demanding climb to the Chalets scenery is superb, and is seen close du Truc, and descent through warm up. The rest days gave the opportunity hiker’s water supply - pine forest followed, into the village to take cable cars or rack railway to ice cold glacier water of Les Contamines and the Hotel le see the higher peaks. spurting from a black Grizzli. We ate well and cheaply that night, at a shed-like restaurant next to The Sherpa tour is self guided, with a plastic pipe. the rushing Bon Nant Torrent. group of about 20. As the group stays in the same accommodation, there is Day Two: the opportunity, for better or worse, to After a few km we crossed the swing Les Contamines to Les Chapieux get to know your fellow walkers. You bridge over the milky torrent draining (18km) can choose to walk on your own, and the Glacier de Bionassay, the snout socialize in the evenings as you wish. of which was only 50m away. Then a After the usual high standard French zigzag path up to our first coll, the Col breakfast, we set off up the banks We arrived in the early afternoon 1st de Tricot (2120m). Picture postcard of the torrent, through forested of July at Geneva Airport and were bussed through pretty impressive alpine country to the start at the French village of Les Houches. But where were the snow capped mountains?

Day One: Les Houches to Les Contamines (18 km) After a typical French breakfast on the lawn in the first rays of morning sun, Heather and I set off early for the cable car station. On the TMB one is allowed to cheat at times by taking the cable car or bus. The ride to Bellevue saved 850m of climbing which would have been a daunting start. The Bellevue First sight of the snow-capped mountains. Looking east towards the saddle provided some nice views, but Glacier de Bionnassay. Distant central peak is Aigoille de Bionnassay (4052m)

26 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Tour du Mont Blanc camping grounds. We reached the beautiful little church of Notre Dame de la Gorge and marveled at the work which would have been required to build it 200 years ago. Then the climb began, through alpine meadows full of wildflowers and sheep and cows with bells. After about 5km the meadows ended and rock and snowfields began. The Col de Bonhomme was a one km stretch of snow, then a very rocky and snowy traverse to the Col de la Croix de Bonhomme (2433m). Fortunately there was a chalet there with hot chocolate and homemade cake.

From the chilly summit a steep ziggy- zaggy path took us down to the remote Refuge de la Nova, very friendly and full of walkers. The views all day were Nick on the snowfield of Col de Bonhomme magnificent. (For anyone with any attraction to glacial valley, flanked by gigantic lateral Day Three: geology, the glacial features along this moraines, to the refuge at Anurva. Les Chapieux to La Palud section are of extraordinary interest.) Then we took to hills, climbing into (30km but walked 20km) The bus then took us painlessly increasingly thick mist and cloud, to This day began with a long but but slowly into the conurbation of the Col de Ferret (2537m-like that attractive road traverse (essentially no Courmayeur-La Palud name) and the Italian-Swiss border. traffic) through a tight steep-walled At the summit, a group of walkers valley to La Ville des Glaciers. Then Day Four: stood glumly in the mist. We set we took to the hills, climbing slowly Day off in La Palud off immediately, as it started to rain heavily. There were tantalizing to the Col de la Seigne (2516m) and A free day gave the opportunity to glimpses of peaks and cliffs, and the into Italy. The track is on the eastern enjoy the hospitality of our very deep valley ahead. After a series of shoulder of a huge valley and gives friendly Italian family hotel-Hotel heavy showers we reached the refuge expansive views of the cliffs and Vallee Blanche. Great local restaurants. La Peule, and even enjoyed a cup of rock needles on the eastern side of A group of walkers went up in the instant coffee! We took shelter in an the massif. A long descent takes you series of cable cars that cross the Mont adjacent barn with a hundred other through a classic glaciated valley with Blanc snowfields-locally claimed to be soaked and steaming walkers. When several steep breaks of slope and the 8th wonder of the world. Probably the rain slacked we set off again, waterfalls, to the cappuccino stop at not an outrageous claim. Lac du Miage. descending on a loopy farm track to a minor road and walked to Ferret. Day Five: It was then a saunter along the The TMB then was routed into the narrow road to the bus at Cantine La Palud to La Fouly (18km walking) foothills on some muddy tracks and de la Visaille. We took the bus to La Vachey, and across a few (swollen) creeks, but we walked in light rain up a magnificent made it safely to the Hotel Edelweiss at La Fouly, just in time to avoid a massive rainstorm. SWITZERLAND FRANCE Triente 9 Day Six: 10 Martigny La Fouly to Champex-Lac (14 km) Argentiere 8 7 Champex Most of the day was a very pleasant 11 low level stroll through woods and Chamonix Les Houches 1 pastures, frequently passing Swiss log houses with bright floral displays. Les Contamines 6 La Fouly The TMB meandered through several Mt Blanc 2 lovely villages (Praz-de-Fort and Issert), with stone and log houses often of considerable size. The cappuccino La Palud 4 5 amenities were excellent. Just before 3 the former village the path followed Les Chapieux Courmayeur the crest of an enormous lateral moraine, so symmetrical it was ITALY hard to believe that it was natural.

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 27 WALKING & TREKKING IN EUROPE Departing Adelaide 11 September 08

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28 Trailwalker Autumn 2008 Tour du Mont Blanc The moraine was used to carry the pressure pipes of a major hydroelectric scheme. As an aside it was interesting to note that every sizeable stream on the entire massif had been tapped for hydro power- a massive engineering feat. Past Issert, the route left the valley of La Drance de Ferret and climbed to a beautiful perched glacial lake, Lac de Champex where we enjoyed an early entry to the Hotel du Glacier. The sun came out in the afternoon to give great views of the surrounding very steep mountains.

Day Seven Free day in Champex. We enjoyed a low activity day, visiting the botanic gardens, and it was just as well we did. Approaching Plan Praz, Mt Blanc massif in background Day Eight: Lac-Champex to Triente (13km) the close look at the glacier made it various glaciers, was truly magnificent. Today we (foolishly, says Heather) worthwhile, for me anyway. (Heather says nothing). From the coll we elected to take decided to have a go at the variant traverse slightly below the main ridge recommended as ‘a fair weather Like all the Alpine glaciers, the Triente (les Frettes), as the heat had become alternative for very fit walkers’, over is in rapid recession. Go and see almost oppressive. On the ridge was the Fenetre d’Arpette (2665m). I them, because they have only a few only bare rock but at our level the track was keen to do it because the route years left. was grassy. We still got great views passed alongside the Glacier du and saw few other walkers. Towards Triente. The first part of the walk After a long slow descent we reached the southern end of the spur our path up the Val d’Arpette was fine, just the welcome refreshment stop of the passed into welcome aromatic pine normally steep, but got steeper; and Chalet du Glacier-now a long way from forest shade, descending into the Arve when the track petered out it passed its namesake. The final leg into Triente valley and the modest conurbation of into a tremendous boulder field. This was mostly uneventful, but we were Montoc. A grassy path then led along contained granite rocks from head to both pretty tired when we got to the the river bank to Argentiere and the small skyscraper size, and was very Relais du Mont Blanc Hotel. Luckily Hotel de la Couronne. tiring to traverse. But the notch of Heather and I got accommodation in the Arpette got slowly closer, until the quiet part, rather than the rowdy Day Ten: it became apparent that the final semi-bunkhouse environment some of Argentiere to Chamonix (10km) slope was outrageously steep. It was our party suffered. a one-step-at-a time job, but we got The day promised to be rather hot, there. The notch in the ridge is bare Day Nine: so we elected to take the Petit Balcon and windswept, with steep crags Triente to Argentiere (12km) du Sud, rather than the strenuous overlooking it-quite an atmospheric walk along much higher, and exposed Feeling a bit stiff (just a bit, says spot and the most exposed of our Grand Balcon. Heather) after yesterday’s exertions, walk. Unfortunately, the initial descent we set out along a mercifully flat Up a steadily rising path we walked was also outrageously steep and with country road to the hamlet of le Peuty though pine forest, with frequent many loose stones, requiring very and began the steady climb to the views of the main massif across the deliberate downward progress. Still Col de Balme. At first the trail was in valley of the Arve. As we climbed forest, but later emerged into open the mountain vistas became quite meadows; in the direct sun, it became grand. Although the views may have rather warm and we were glad to get been even better up higher, TMBers a cold drink at the Refuge. The Col who did chose that route got rather de Balme (2191m) is on the frontier sunburned that afternoon. The end of between Switzerland and France, and the climb was the Chalet de la Flegere the head of the drainage of the Arve (1871m) a modern monstrosity of and the Chamonix Valley. It was also ski-ism, reeking of septic effluent and the start of the ‘developments’ which an abundance of cable-car ascendees. disfigure this magnificent glacial valley; We moved on after a cold drink. We a real tangle of ski lifts and cable cars. were now on the Grand Balcon, well Trient Glacier, on descent Still the view of the wall of mountains, above the tree line; passing along from Fenétre d’Arpette stretching to Mont Blanc itself, and the the foot of the wall of cliffs , crags,

Trailwalker Autumn 2008 29 Tour du Mont Blanc and screes forming the upper part of Because I insisted, says Heather. the Montagne de Charlanon at about The route took along steep (almost 1900m. At one point a sign (roughly vertiginous) lower slopes of le Brevent, translated) warned of the possibility initially through pines; then more of death from falling rocks - dislodged exposed rocky scree slopes. We came by construction of footings for yet to an unexpected ‘danger-track closed’ more ski lifts. All walkers ignored these sign. A massive avalanche several years signs! - the alternative being a loss previously had obliterated the TMB. A of 300m. faint pad seemed to go out onto the sea of jumbled rocks, and as the up or Our traverse terminated at the cable down alternatives were not attractive, car nexus of Plan Praz (2000m) and a we followed it. After a somewhat hair- spectacular (terrifying, says Heather) raising 2km traverse of the main rock descent in a telecabine to Chamonix. fall, we scrambled across the deep The Grand Balcon route did give gully of the active stream (Ravin des End of the ‘illegal’ detour remarkable views of Aiguilles de Midi, Vouillourds) diverted by the avalanche Mont Blanc, and the glaciers. and miraculously were back on the uniformly high standard of meals and main TMB. After this, it was easy going accommodation, in very modest hotels Day Eleven along the slopes, then down through and Auberges. Rest day in Chamonix. We actually the forest, past the Parc animalier, and What is sadly apparent is the extent had a rest day! Took the rack railway the giant concrete le Christ Roi Statue, of commercial development on the to Montonvers and went into the ice across the Arve and into Les Houches slopes around Chamonix, with literally caverns cut into the Glacier du Tacul and the end of our TMB. a tangle of ski lifts, and the strip (Mer de Glace) The TMB is a remarkable walk. development in the Chamonix valley Overall it is quite demanding and for itself. The dramatic wasting of the Day Twelve: the more adventurous variants can glaciers is a stark reminder of global Chamonix to Les Houches (10km) be selected to take you higher and warming. Go and see them before they Again we chose the lower level route further (and up chains and ladders). disappear-it can’t be long. For any one of le Petit Balcon-perhaps we had The Alpine scenery is wonderful and with an interest in landforms, the TBM had enough of the expansive views? there is a lot of variety. A feature is the is a real treat. •

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