The Brazilian Amazon How to experience the rainforest in style

By Lucy Bryson The Brazilian Amazon How to experience the rainforest in style

By Lucy Bryson

Copyright © 2015 Matueté

Published by Horizon Travel Press PO Box 9531 Denver, CO 80209 http://horizontravelpress.com/

By Lucy Bryson Layout & design by Simon Ross-Gill The Brazilian Amazon: How to experience the rainforest in style Contents

Foreword ...... pages 6-7 Welcome to the Brazilian Amazon ...... pages 8-11 Amazon highlights ...... pages 12-13 Myths and misconceptions ...... pages 14-15 How to travel the Amazon ...... pages 16-19 The Amazon in style: Private yacht charters ...... pages 20-21 Family Friendly Amazon ...... pages 22-23 Rio Negro and Manaus Introduction to Rio Negro and Manaus ...... pages 26-27 What to do in and around Rio Negro ...... pages 28-33 Exploring the Rio Negro region ...... pages 34-35 Accommodation ...... pages 36-37 Getting there and away ...... pages 38-39 Rio Tapajos Introduction to Tapajos ...... pages 42-43 Exploring the Tapajos region ...... pages 44-45 Getting there and away ...... pages 46-47 Belém & Marajó Introduction to Belém and Marajo ...... pages 50-51 Exploring Belém and Marajó ...... pages 52-53 Other Destinations The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The Xingu National Park ...... pages 56-59 Tefé and Uakari lodge ...... pages 60-63 Alta Foresta ...... pages 64-67 Resources Responsible travel ...... pages 68-69 Climate and when to travel ...... pages 70-71 Nature and wildlife ...... pages 72-75 Recommended packing list ...... page 76-77 Eating and drinking ...... page 78 Useful phrases ...... page 79 About Matueté ...... pages 80-81

44 5 Foreword

Martin Frankenberg Founder - Matueté

When I first set foot in the Amazon eighteen years ago, I knew I had discovered a special place: The lungs of the world, the heart of South America, the soul of Brazil. And since then, despite having organized hundreds of trips to the region over many years, the effect this place has on visitors never ceases to amaze me. There aren’t many travel destinations in the world that come with so many preconceptions as the Amazon rainforest. Some of them are correct - yes it’s hot, and yes it’s often pretty rainy! But much of the received wisdom couldn’t be any further from the truth - it’s only when you set foot in the jungle that you realise how much you had wrong. The near total absence of mosquitoes in vast regions of the forest; the glorious white sand beaches and tranquil crystal waters; the joy of swimming in the rivers free of piranha and all the other creepies you might expect; I could go on and on... But it’s the subtle things that make the Amazon truly unique. The immensity of the rivers; the absolute silence of the nights; the singing of the birds and the overpowering beauty of a sunset over a deserted beach. For my family, the Amazon has formed the backdrop of many of the most memorable holidays of our lives. And for this reason alone, it makes it so precious for me and for so many families I have had the pleasure of planning trips to the region. Welcome to the jungle! Enjoy. The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The

66 7 Welcome to the hectare of the Amazon than in all of jungle’s most compelling attractions sand beaches spring up alongside Europe, and the jungle is home to are within the reach of travellers who rivers that are so broad they’re more Brazilian Amazon around a quarter of all the planet’s want to experience the world’s largest like inland seas, making the Amazon living species. tropical forest without abandoning a surprisingly perfect location for a The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The Often referred to as the lungs of There are some 1,000 rivers and their creature comforts. beach holiday, and with a sense of A mazon Brazilian The the earth, the Amazon rainforest is tributaries - enough to circle the Earth And if you’re imagining hacking your splendid isolation that you won’t find the largest on earth and the Amazon twice over if joined together - in which way through impenetrable forest, anywhere on Brazil’s more famous itself is the world’s mightiest river. swim an estimated 3,000 species of machete swinging wildly, it might be coast. Covering almost half of Brazil’s fish. Some 300 species of mammal time to think again. Foodie travellers will be in their landmass and extending into eight have been identified in the jungle, While the Brazilian Amazon offers element, too, thanks to nature’s other South American countries, along with close to 2,000 types of great scope for rugged jungle bounty. The trees hang heavy with the Amazon region is a rewarding butterfly. adventures, a trip here needn’t be colourful tropical fruit - many of which destination for anyone looking for The sheer scale of the Amazon an endurance test of your wilderness don’t even have names in English - that trip of a lifetime that will linger rainforest can be both awe-inspiring survival skills. Today’s visitor can also while the rivers teem with edible fish. long in the memory. and intimidating to the visitor. When find high-end jungle lodges offering Superfoods such as energy-boosting The Amazon exists on a scale that planning a trip here it makes sense impeccable cuisine, while luxury yachts guarana and acai are found in is difficult to comprehend and its to concentrate on one region. The provide a floating base to explore the abundance. biodiversity is mind-boggling. There Brazilian portion alone is mind- jungle in style. Fish baked in a Brazil nut crust, are more species of plant in just one blowing in scale, but many of the During the dry season, pristine white potent caipifrutas made with sugar

88 9 cane rum and fresh fruit, and rich ice has a population close to two million creams, mousses and sorbets made - and Belém. Manaus is a buzzing, with tropical fruit such as creamy bustling city deep in the heart of the cupuacu are among the many culinary jungle, where visitors can admire treats to be discovered. the architecture of the city’s famous What you see and experience Opera House and take in a lively depends entirely on where and drinking and dining scene before when you visit, and how you prefer embarking on a trip down the Rio to travel. The Amazon River itself Negro as it flows out of the city. is the ‘expressway’ of the jungle. Meanwhile, the port city of Belém The communities that live on the is a foodie hotspot, with some truly banks of the legendary river are high-end restaurants serving highly long accustomed to enormous ships imaginative dishes made from native passing by - with no roads linking it to ingredients. the south of the country, all freight into the main city of Manaus is carried The jungle’s cities and large towns by river. owe much of their grand architecture In contrast, travelling down the to the rubber boom of the late 19th Amazon’s countless tributaries is a and early 20th centuries. Surrounded much more laid back affair, more by rubber trees, these cities thrived, akin to taking a quiet country road. becoming the richest and most But the scale can still be vast! The developed in Brazil until seeds were waterways range from relatively smuggled out of the country to narrow to so wide that you won’t be establish plantations in Malaysia, thus able to see the shore on the other ending Brazil’s rubber monopoly. side. Today, Brazil’s Amazonia is a rich mix Villages along these shores are of untamed nature, barely-contacted usually very small, populated by indigenous villages and busy cities. It is The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The communities who lead largely perfectly possible to enjoy exuberant A mazon Brazilian The subsistence lifestyles, living off the wild nature while traveling on river and the land. Schooling is a luxurious yachts, or take in an opera challenge here, and many children after exploring some of the most take a boat for miles to reach class. remote regions of the jungle. The jungle is home to a staggering The region offers almost limitless collection of flora, colourful birds and opportunities for accessible, even butterflies, and while the larger land luxurious, adventures, and trips can mammals largely keep themselves be tailor made to suit individual travel hidden in the trees, it’s common to tastes. Always surprising, never dull, spot pink dolphins at play in the rivers. the Amazonia is a destination that But it’s not all about wild nature. goes well beyond the ordinary and Many of the rainforest’s 17 million into the realms of outright fantasy. human inhabitants are concentrated in the large cities of Manaus - which

1010 11 Amazon Highlights Belém & Marajó (page 50) Rio Negro (page 26) The historic port city of Belém is the The Amazon’s most accessible and gateway to the vast Amazon estuary and classic ‘all-rounder’ destination. Perfect its archipelago, including the wildlife rich for getting a taste of everything the Marajó island. Excellent for accessible jungle has to offer, including the wildlife spotting and beaches in the dry opportunity to catch a glimpse of some Manaus (page 26) season. It’s also a major gastronomic colourful bird and animal life, admire A major transport centre, with top Brazilian chefs flocking tropical flora, explore channels and hub for trips into the here to better acquaint themselves with densely-forested archipelagos and rainforest. Famous for the abundant native fruits, vegetables witness the famous Meeting of the its grand opera house, and species of fish. There are some truly Waters where the Negro and Solimões the city has a lively world-class restaurants here, making it a form the Amazon itself. cultural calendar as well favourite for foodie visitors to the Amazon. as some good dining.

Tefé (page 60) One of the best places to see the jungle’s natural residents up close. The Mamirauá nature reserve is home Xingu National Park (page 56) to 400 species of bird and at least 45 This remote and strictl protected species of mammal. Guests stay at the area only allows outsiders to enter at famous Uakari floating lodge, home the invitation of the tribes that live to the Uakari monkey, which is found there. It’s a hard-to-reach destination The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The nowhere else. and a bare-basics lifestyle, but the opportunity to see how the tribes live day to day is immensely rewarding.

Rio Tapajós (page 42) Alta Foresta (page 64) With paradise beaches hidden Home to Cristalino Lodge, one of the deep in the wild jungle in dry world’s finest jungle lodges set within season, clear blue waters and the a private reserve that is rich in flora opportunity to escape the crowds and teeming with birdlife. Excellent and explore hidden tributaries nature spotting in the lap of luxury and coves, it’s a perfect spot and fine dining. for families and honeymooning couples.

1212 13 Myths and parts of the Brazilian Amazon boast unique blue-water rivers with misconceptions gorgeous white sand beaches that are perfectly safe for swimming and are The vast, steamy Amazon rainforest as paradisiacal as any Caribbean coast. is a region shrouded in mystery, and That said, the famed piranha can be few first time visitors to the jungle readily found elsewhere, and piranha really know what to expect from a fishing makes for a fun and popular trip here - expectations are often very activity. Culinarily-curious visitors different from the reality. should be sure to try piranha soup - Although the jungle is home to it’s a staple on many menus here. some incredible creatures including The famed pink dolphins of the the jaguar, tapir and giant anteater, Brazilian Amazon are also a reality, they tend to keep themselves to and a trip of five days or more usually themselves and visitors expecting to provides ample opportunity to spot encounter abundant large mammals them at play on the water. Grey you need for a comfortable, bite-free with young children. Fears about will probably be disappointed. On dolphins, meanwhile, can be found in trip (see recommended packing list, dangerous animals, stifling heat and the other hand bird watchers have a abundance and visitors may even find page 76). The beaches here actually biting insects can scare off cautious great deal to be excited about, thanks themselves swimming close to these have fewer mosquitoes than in parents from even contemplating to the sheer number and variety of beautiful but shy animals. Rio and elsewhere on the Brazilian a trip to this vast rainforest, but in bird species that can be easily spotted Many people imagine the rainforest coastline. fact the Amazon can be an excellent in and around in the trees and as a place filled with swarms of Don’t expect to encounter a world choice for a family vacation with a waterways. mosquitoes. In fact large swathes of of isolated indigenous communities, difference. Another misconception is the the jungle are almost mosquito-free, either - although some uncontacted The climate, while hot and humid thought of muddy waters teeming particularly in the dry season (see tribes do still live in the Amazon, they throughout the year, is not as with piranha, caiman and other climate, page 70). Even in the wet are not only impossibly remote, but overbearingly stifling as many bloodthirsty beasts. In actual fact, season, a good insect repellent is all there are also strict controls in place imagine. Temperatures tend to hover restricting access to these tribes. Stay around 27°C and only rarely reach The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The away from any operator claiming to over 33°C- making it positively cool in A mazon Brazilian The offer access to uncontacted tribes, comparison with cities such as Rio de as in reality such access is strictly Janeiro, where summer temperatures prohibited. are truly searing - regularly reaching However, some reputable companies 40 degrees and above. In the Amazon, can organise ethically-sound stays with there is always fresh water at hand to tribes that continue to live much as plunge into and cool off. they have done for centuries. It is vital The opportunity for jungle to thoroughly research any company adventures make the Amazon a offering such stays and find a trip that surefire hit with older children (see is culturally rewarding for visitors and page 22), and the beaches that doesn’t exploit host communities. emerge in high season are truly Another widely-held misconception pristine, with calm, clear waters - about the Brazilian Amazon is that it perfect for swimming even with very is pretty much off-limits for families young children.

1414 15 How to travel the found anywhere else on earth - can sometimes be spotted. Amazon Most visitors to the Brazilian Amazon will spend from three to 10 days There is no single approach to in the jungle, making a base at a seeing the vast Amazon rainforest. jungle lodge or aboard a riverboat, Although it is certainly possible to see which usually offer daily and nightly some of the interior by backpacking activities such as hiking in the jungle, independently with local boats recreational fishing, visits to local heading upriver, such trips are more communities and adventure sports about intrepid survival skills than such as tree climbing, along with relaxation. nocturnal nature walks. Most recreational visitors prefer to Some trips are more focused on land- take an organised and guided yacht based adventures, and much depends trip, with many operators running on the time of year: those visiting trips from Manaus as well as some during wet season will be able to glide other strategic locations. Meanwhile through the forest on a canoe, but those travelling in larger groups who will miss out on the joys of relaxing prefer to set their own agenda may on pristine white sand beaches. There find it worth the extra to charter a are pros and cons to every visit, and private yacht, allowing truly tailor- it is worth taking some time to plan made trips. exactly what you hope to see, do and Where you visit and how long experience during your visit to the you spend there depends on your Brazilian Amazon. travel style and what you want to Arguably the most efficient way to see. For spectacular scenery, the see large swathes of the Brazilian Rio Negro (page 26) - in particular Amazon is by making your base the Anavilhanas archipelago - is the aboard a riverboat, and if you really The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The most impressive, but the acidic water want to see virgin rainforest you’ll A mazon Brazilian The here attracts less wildlife than on need to spend at least a couple of the igarapés (creeks) that wind out days on the water to reach these of the river to the south of Manaus more untouched regions. There’s no and in the more remote regions of shortage of operators, but be sure to the jungle. For those really keen to do your research and avoid booking see jungle animals, it can be worth on-the-spot with touts. If your main taking a flight from Manaus to the interest lies in the flora and fauna town of Tefé to visit Mamirauá - a of the jungle, don’t be afraid to test vast ecological reserve where pink operators’ knowledge of the jungle dolphins, bright red macaws and by emailing them questions about the sloths can all be found in abundance, species you might see before booking and some of the world’s rarest your trip. creatures - such as the crimson-faced Amazon riverboats range from uakari monkey, which cannot be simple to deluxe. The main two

1616 17 choices are booking onto a group a couple of days’ stay (but probably trip with scheduled departures and no more than that due to a lack of fixed itineraries or chartering a private good hotels and unpleasantly high yacht (page 20) for those who prefer levels of traffic) and the majority of to set their own agenda. Amazon trips start here. Jungle lodges offer varying levels of The best tour operators are able to home comforts - from simple family- tailor-make Amazon trips for clients run affairs to luxury lodgings in the who are willing to pay a little more middle of the wild jungle - and will to set their own agenda. This can be typically include meals, excursions, an excellent option for travellers who guides and transport in the room know what they want to experience price. - and what they want to avoid - and Lodges can be found within easy want to see the jungle on their own reach of Manaus (page 26) - the terms. main point of entry for visitors to the Be aware that many operators do northern Amazon - but there are also not adhere to sustainable tourism farther-flung options that offer a real best practices (see: Responsible sense of escape and exploration in the Travel, page 68). Don’t be afraid to world’s greatest jungle. ask questions before booking and Although there are only a few always check a company’s credentials truly world class lodges in the online - their word alone may not be Brazilian Amazon, these top-end a guarantee of responsible practices. accommodations are worth the price Don’t buy into cruelty by paying to tag for those looking for luxury in the pose with captive animals - close to middle of the tropical wilderness. big cities it is sadly all too common to The city of Manaus is the gateway to see monkeys, sloths and other jungle the Brazilian Amazon and it is worth creatures kept for the sole purpose of setting aside some time to explore separating tourists from their money. The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The this bustling city in the middle of the Where possible, try to give A mazon Brazilian The wild jungle. Although the state of something back - the simple act Amazonas is the largest in Brazil in of bringing pencils, stationery and terms of landmass it is also one of the other school equipment can be most sparsely populated, and almost hugely beneficial to many Amazon half of the state’s population can be communities. A reputable tour found in this city of some 1.7 million operator will be able to advise on key inhabitants. items that are in short supply. Less grand now than it was during See the destination overviews in this Brazil’s rubber boom, Manaus retains guide for more details on the activities a handsome historic centre. With a and experiences you can combine into busy cultural calendar, urban buzz an itinerary. and compelling sights such as the dramatic Renaissance architecture of the city’s opera house, Manaus merits

1818 19 The Amazon in increasingly catering for the higher- bonus for improved wildlife spotting from three to 16 cabins and from end market too, particularly with the but it also creates more authentic expedition yachts perfect for style: Private yacht growth of private yacht charters. cultural interactions as you visit navigating the myriad back channels This is by far the most exclusive way riverside communities that are not and waterways, to 120ft superyachts. charters of touring the rainforest, and it comes affected by regular tourism. In addition to the sailing crew each with a price tag to match. But the In the relatively busy region around cruise will include a multi-lingual tour Of the many misconceptions advantages are two-fold: not only Manaus and Rio Negro (page 26) a manager, a professional naturalist associated with the Amazon rainforest can you cruise in the height of style private yacht gets you further from guide and a full complement of chefs (page 14), perhaps the most and luxury, you’re also buying the the human bustle and deeper into and cooks, ranging from big name misleading is the idea that visiting freedom and flexibility to set your pristine wilderness, vastly improving Brazilian star chefs to great local the jungle is inevitably a basic, raw own pace and tailor a unique journey the quality of bird spotting and nature cooks. experience; heavy on the adventure to your exact preferences. watching. In the Tapajos region (page For those with some extra money but light on the home comforts. This makes it possible to visit regions 42) a charter affords access to your to spend, this is the ultimate Amazon While that is certainly still true that few others venture into, charting own remote private beaches, far from experience. for intrepid explorers, what many a course far beyond the areas most the crowds and land-based tours to visitors don’t realise is that travel commonly visited by other group the popular Alter do Chao. infrastructure and services are tours and excursions. Not only is this a Yachts vary in size, ranging The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The

2020 21 Arguably the best regions for to bring all medicines that may children are the mosquito-free Negro be necessary - including diarrhoea and Tapajos rivers (see pages 26 and tablets, ibuprofen/paracetamol etc., 42). The clear waters here are good from home, as there will rarely be a for swimming, and the lack of biting pharmacy at close hand on your trip. insects is a major boon. Murkier Choose mosquito-free areas, where waters can attract too many mozzies there is no malaria. Check medical for comfort. While there is no wrong advice on anti-malarials as they may time for accessible family visits the come with significant side effects. Amazon, younger children are sure to The most common health hazard in appreciate the beaches that emerge the Brazilian Amazon is sun-stroke - it in the dry season when sand castle- is hugely important to protect kids making, splashing in the clear, clean from the intensely strong equatorial waters (a world away from the sadly sun. Heat rashes and skin allergies polluted city beaches of famous beach due to the high temperatures and destinations such as Rio de Janeiro) humidity are also common among are real child-pleasers. children, so be sure to bring any For older children and teenagers, creams and ointments your doctor paddle-boarding, kayaking and recommends. Tropical strength insect piranha fishing are all popular repellent is advisable, although those Family Friendly Children will get to see how Amazon activities, and those traveling aboard with a very high DEET content may communities live in the jungle, and a private yacht can get a real buzz not be suitable for young children. Amazon while visitors are unlikely to spot from jumping off the vessel’s decks, dangerous wild animals, they’ll with their varying heights, into the Food and drink The Brazilian Amazon teems with have a good chance of sighting pink river below. With its brightly-coloured, unusually- attractions and activities for younger dolphins, as well as countless colourful Indeed, while there are a growing shaped fruits and vegetables visitors, and there’s no need to let tropical birds and butterflies. number of high-end jungle lodges, and plentiful freshwater fish, the commonly-held preconceptions about Fishing and paddling in dugout families may find that making their Amazonian diet is not only healthy The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The the region deter you from planning a canoes are popular activities for base aboard a private yacht is the but is also likely to appeal to A mazon Brazilian The family trip to the jungle. Fears about older children, while adventurous most appealing and practical way to adventurous eaters looking to rack uncomfortable accommodation, a teenagers can trek through the see the rainforest. Young children up culinary experiences that will sticky climate, swarms of mosquitoes jungle and get clued up about jungle can take naps in their own bedrooms impress friends back home. For those and biting creatures rarely match the survival: learning which plants are when needed, and there’s always an with more conservative tastes, most reality - it’s just a matter of knowing edible and which are poisonous, how opportunity to rustle up a snack for upscale lodges - and all yachts - can where to go and where to avoid. to identify birds and spot caiman at fussy eaters in the boat’s kitchen. put together a dish to suit even the The Amazon offers plenty for kids to night, all make for an enthralling and fussiest child. If your child has dietary get excited about at any time of year. educational experience. Keeping healthy restrictions it is wise to advise the Canoeing through the flooded jungle Visitors young and old alike will Families visiting the Brazilian company you are traveling with is a highlight of the rainy season, enjoy tucking into bowls of piranha Amazon should be sure to have beforehand, in order for the necessary while in dry season virgin beaches soup, feasting on colourful tropical yellow fever injections before setting arrangements to be made. spring up alongside the clear, calm fruit - many of which are unheard of off, and to ask their family doctor rivers, and swimming opportunities outside Brazil - and learning about the about any specific precautions that abound. jungle’s many animal inhabitants. their children should take. Be sure

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2424 25 aus Introduction to Rio that wind through the vegetation and from the humidity of the rainforest. worth seeing in their own right, but aus micro islands by canoe and small boat. Although the jungle looms large for many visitors it is merely a jumping Negro & Manaus Water levels are higher during rainy over Manaus, it is one of Brazil’s off point for major adventures season - when the river can span some most important commercial cities, along the Rio Negro and into the o & Ma n & o Ma n & o

r If there’s one place that really lives 30 kilometres - but the channels are with container ships bound for the jungle. There are some decent r up to most travellers’ mental images navigable by small boat year-round. ocean docking at the busy port, and accommodation options here, but for of the Brazilian Amazon, it’s the Rio A major highlight of the river is the traders from Peru, Colombia and the best Amazon jungle lodges you’ll Negro. It’s on these dark, reflective Anavilhanas National Park - one of the Bolivia gathering here to do business. need to head out of the city and into Rio Neg Rio waters - teeming with fish and caiman largest river archipelagos in the world, The city’s large market is a colourful the thick and steamy jungle. Neg Rio and stretching endlessly towards the and an environmentally-protected place and offers good opportunities horizon - that we find thousands haven for many of the Amazon’s to pick up local handicrafts as well Not to miss: of islands clustered into lush green animals and birds. Some 400 islands as jungle fruits and vegetables, and • Glide silently through the jungle archipelagos, around which meander are liberally scattered over 350,000 the Museum of the Indians outlines by canoe during wet season countless channels and waterways hectares of virgin rainforest, and there the history of the region’s indigenous • Relax on pristine white sand perfect for bird-spotting from canoes are some appealing jungle lodges to peoples. beaches during dry season and small boats. be found here, around 100 kilometres Importantly for visitors, Manaus lies • Experience big city life in the But there’s a side to the Rio Negro along the Rio Negro from Manaus. close to the famous Meeting of the middle of the wild jungle in region that you might not have The urban jungle meets the real Waters (page 29) where the black tea- Manaus imagined: the metropolis of Manaus, jungle in Manaus itself. A buzzing coloured Rio Negro meets the latte- • Explore the islands and waterways the river beaches that rival anything to metropolis of nearly two million coloured Solimões, and the two run of the protected Anavilhanas The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The be found on Rio’s coastline and make people planted right in the middle of side by side, without mixing, to form archipelago A mazon Brazilian The for a perfect family vacation, and the world’s largest rainforest, Manaus the River Amazon itself. • See the Meeting of the Waters - even swimming - yes swimming! - In was a wealthy city during Brazil’s Manaus’ nightlife is more varied where the dark waters of the Rio waters that are safe and perfectly free rubber boom, and its famously grand and lively than one might expect in Negro and the clear waters of the of piranhas and other underwater opera house harks back to this golden the middle of the jungle, and there’s Rio Solimões run for several miles creatures you might be imagining. age. Today the city is a little gritty in plenty of opportunity to try local without mixing. It’s this blend of the expected and places, but the last decade has seen dishes such as pirarucu and tambaqui • Spot caiman and other creatures the totally unexpected that makes Rio increased investment in tourism, and fish which can be cooked in a variety of the night on nocturnal Negro such a compelling destination refurbishment has brought the city’s of imaginative ways. A particular adventures in the rainforest for visitors, offering a great all historic centre back to something regional highlight is grilled tambaqui • Visit small riverside communities, rounder location with a glimpse of the approaching its former glory. At the fish with farofa (seasoned manioc and get up close to the Amazon’s Amazon’s many faces. edges of the city, river beaches attract flour), rice and jambu (a leaf similar famous pink dolphins. The Rio Negro, its tributaries and the flocks of locals and tourists alike, all to rocket but with a very dist Manaus Rio Solimões are perfect for wetland relishing the chance to strip down to has a busy cultural calendar with some trips, exploring the narrow channels their swimwear and get a little respite sights and are attractions that are

2626 27 What to do in & Be sure to visit the Anavilhanas National Park - with some 400 islands around Rio Negro dotted around 350,000 hectares of untouched rainforest, this is The Rio Negro region, deep in the one of the world’s greatest river far northern rainforest, is a favourite archipelagos, and an environmental for visitors looking to taste a little of protection order has ensured that its everything that the Brazilian Amazon flora and fauna continue to thrive.

aus has to offer. Travellers with special aus interests or activities in mind may find River beaches and swimming another region more suitable for their Among the most unexpected sights particular needs but for the classic in this part of the Amazon are the o & Ma n & o Ma n & o

r Amazon experience, look no further long river beaches that emerge r than Rio Negro. between August and February and can, if just for a moment or two, make Channels and wetland excursions you feel like you’ve been transported Rio Neg Rio The Rio Negro, the adjoining Rio to some paradisical coastline. Unlike Neg Rio Solimões (the upper Amazon) and the more famous beaches in Rio, their many tributaries create a vast these strands are deserted, tranquil patchwork of wetland, and although and pristine with little chance of a in wet season the Negro can reach wayward beachball, insistent vendor up 30km in width, the surrounding or unwanted attention spoiling your channels and natural canals are moment of relaxation. perfect for exploring by canoe or The waters are warm, slow moving, small boat. This is the ideal way to as clean as it’s possible to get, free of slink through the jungle without piranhas or other biting nasties and disturbing the birds from their daily so are perfectly safe for all the family routines and, if you’re lucky, spot to swim in and enjoy. At the height The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The small mammals in the trees. of the dry season - from October to A mazon Brazilian The Guests at jungle lodges and aboard December - so many of these beaches certain yachts may also have the emerge that those on yachts will be chance to explore the waterways able to find their own private beach. at dusk or night, when the already teeming jungle somehow seems to The Meeting of the Waters (encontro come yet more alive. Extinguishing das águas) the boat’s spotlight and listening to The Rio Negro and Rio Solimões the forest’s raucous orchestra in the meet at Manaus, together forming pitch black is an experience you’ll the mighty Amazon. The confluence never forget. of these two waterways has become Water levels are higher in the wet an attraction in its own right, thanks season (page 70) but most channels to their stark differences in colour - are navigable by small boat all year the Negro being (true to its name) the round. colour of dark tea and the Solimões

2828 29 a much lighter sandy colour. At their when Manaus Opera Festival draws confluence the two rivers produce a visitors from across the country. The remarkable phenomenon, forming a dramatically ornate 1897 building is surprisingly literal boundary between certainly worth a visit even if it’s just themselves and the Amazon itself. to snap a photo or two rather than to take in a show. Details of upcoming Lago Janauari Eco Park events can be found at: http://www. An easy hour-long boat ride from cultura.am.gov.br/teatro-amazonas

aus Manaus, this nature reserve offers an Other attractions in the city itself are aus opportunity to explore the Amazon’s lower key, but there are a handful of wild side without spending days on worthwhile excursions within easy the river. It’s a popular day trip from reach. Almost next door, the excellent o & Ma n & o Ma n & o

r the city and is appealing for wildlife Galeria Amazonica is the best spot in r lovers, families and visitors on a tight the city to shop for locally-produced schedule. arts and crafts. Elevated boardwalks provide a A visit to the rubber museum, 30 Rio Neg Rio path through the trees, allowing minutes by speedboat from the city, Neg Rio visitors to marvel at the sheer size is highly recommended for its insight and spectacular colours of the flora. into how the rubber extractors lived Floating villages sit on crystal clear and worked during the industry’s waters, sloths hang lazily in the great boom. Those based in Manaus branches, and monkeys leap between will find it easy to combine a visit to towering trees. the museum with a dip in the Rio Negro, or it can easily be added to the itinerary of a private yacht trip. Those looking for more active pursuits can take part in jungle survival courses, which are suitable The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The for anyone aged 10 or above, and A mazon Brazilian The run from half-day to several days, depending on your level of interest and energy. Run by ex-army officers, they can be as adrenaline-packed or gentle as travellers wish. Expect to walk away with new skills such as how Sightseeing in and around Manaus to make a fire without matches, find Teatro Amazonas, the grand, domed water in the forest, how to identify Renaissance opera house, is Manaus’ edible (and poisonous) plants, making most famous attraction and regularly traps, and general jungle safety. hosts plays and live classical music events as well as opera spectaculars - many events are free. Opera Season runs from April through March,

3030 31 aus aus o & Ma n & o Ma n & o r r Rio Neg Rio Neg Rio The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The

3232 33 aus aus o & Ma n & o Ma n & o r r Rio Neg Rio Neg Rio

Exploring the Rio river usually depart from Manaus, Tropical Hotel. days by boat from Manaus. Trips and while operators compete in the Visitors happy to spend a little more will take in a visit to the Anavilhanas Negro region city for visitors’ custom it is strongly might well find that the best way to archipelago, around 60 miles from the advisable to book in advance of your experience the phenomenon is with city, before heading further upriver. At the heart of Rio Negro’s appeal arrival and to thoroughly research a bird’s eye view from a private water The archipelago is a protected nature to most visitors is its reputation tour operators. Even for a short trip, it plane that will swoop down to a few reserve, part of the vast UNESCO as a classic all-rounder Amazon is essential to travel with a reputable hundred metres above the river. It’s Central Amazon Conservation The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The destination. You might not find operator who know what they’re also possible to take an overnight Complex, and teems with animal life A mazon Brazilian The the best birdwatching or the most doing. trip in a water plane to the beautiful and colourful bird species. pristine forest but you’ll get a good Full-day or half-day trips along the Anavilhanas archipelago. The farther upriver you travel, lodges sampling of everything the rainforest Rio Negro from Manaus almost always A typical trip to the Rio Negro become virtually non-existent, so to has to offer, and all within fairly close take in the famous Meeting of the region might also include a visit to a explore the pristine, remote regions, a reach of the main entry/exit point Waters (page 29), just outside the city riverside village and/or a trip to the private yacht charter is easily the best of Manaus. The region’s relatively and is the start/end point for many a Lago Janauari eco park. Around one bet. Kayaks provide access to smaller undemanding environment helps yacht cruise along the Rio Negro. hour’s boat ride from the city, this is creeks and through flooded forests, too - the waters are acidic enough to For those in Manaus, it’s possible to a 9,000-acre nature reserve notable and it is possible to visit caboclos (river deter mosquitoes, and the tourism book a day trip via local boat (either for its floating villages, and abundant communities) to see daily life as it is infrastructure around Manaus makes private or as a group). Depending on wildlife including sloths, caiman and played out on the banks of the river. the area highly accessible to all visitors the boat and river conditions it can various species of monkeys as well as Most river trips take three or four - including families. take as little as 30 minutes or as much its mammoth water lilies. days, with options to add more stop- Both short and longer trips along as two hours to reach the famed To see more pristine jungle, you’ll offs in the jungle or connections to the appropriately-nicknamed black confluence from the dock outside the need to travel at least a couple of major cities such as Rio de Janeiro.

3434 35 Accommodation and crew, and even trained onboard chefs - so it’s important to ensure your Choosing the best accommodation boat is staffed with the right people if for your travel style is the key to you’re splashing out. an enjoyable visit to the Rio Negro A cheaper alternative to the private region. For most visitors, the choice yachts are regular scheduled cruises. is between a jungle lodge or a river For instance the Amazon Clipper cruise. High-end travellers or those Premium, a 16 cabin yacht, operates

aus visiting in larger groups might prefer a regular Monday to Wednesday aus the flexibility of chartering a private cruise along the Amazon River and yacht (page 20). a Wednesday to Saturday cruise Whatever travel style you choose, it’s along the Rio Negro. The boat is o & Ma n & o Ma n & o

r important to do some serious research comfortable, guides are professional r before booking your trip to ensure the and knowledgeable, and the food is planned itinerary matches what you excellent. hope to experience in the jungle. There are very few truly high-end Rio Neg Rio The main appeal of chartering places to stay in Manaus and along Neg Rio a private yacht is the additional the river, so be wary of sales spiel flexibility of tailoring a trip to your and be sure to thoroughly research Anavilhanas Lodge Novo Airao village tastes, and escaping the more popular any possibilities before booking - and This immaculately-maintained Novo Airao village is a must-see for tourist routes to discover hidden certainly before arrival. lodge is just outside the village of visitors to the Rio Negro, and this regions of the Amazon. Again, prior The following are dependably good, Novo Airao - a beach destination in smart hotel is a decent option if the research is key. Good operators will and accustomed to catering to a high- the middle of the jungle, and one popular Anavilhanas Lodge is fully provide local guides, a skilled skipper end clientele. of the most visited spots on the Rio booked. Located within Novo Airao Negro. Many rate Anavilhanas as itself, it lacks the wild appeal of a true the best lodge in the Amazon, and jungle lodge but makes up for it with the attention to detail is certainly a range of good excursions and easy impressive. It’s worth splashing out access to the village’s own sights and The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The on the superior bungalows, whose attractions. A mazon Brazilian The floor-to-ceiling windows seem to bring the jungle’s wild beauty right into Tropical Manaus your hotel room, while keeping out In Manaus itself there is Tropical noisy nocturnal sounds and flying and Manaus. Its days as one of the crawling beasties. The common areas Amazon’s finest hotels are long gone, are well furnished and there’s even but does offer resort facilities such as wifi available. The food, made using a large pool, bars and lounge, and fresh Amazonian ingredients, win rave even a small zoo, so families may reviews from guests. find it a fun place to stay for one or two nights if intent on exploring Amazonia’s biggest city. Provided you don’t expect stellar service or luxurious lodgings, you might find it makes a surprisingly entertaining stay.

3636 37 Getting there and well as the Brazilian airlines TAM and overhaul for the 2014 FIFA World Cup company with arranged private Gol. has brought it up to international transfers to/from the airport and your away The international airport is some standards. other destinations will take a lot of 14 kilometres from the city centre, Unless you have a hankering to sit the stress out of moving around in Most international visitors to the and taxis are easy to find although on hot, cramped buses as they crawl Manaus. Amazon will arrive by plane, and congestion can make the journey through traffic jams, it’s best to avoid The same applies when taking to the state capital Manaus handles by longer than visitors might hope. using public transport in Manaus. the water - the simple boats that far the largest share of flights to the Known as Eduardo Gomes Taxis are readily available but be transport locals and backpackers are

aus jungle. The city is a major commercial International Airport in honour of cautious of overcharging. Taxis from far from comfortable, and at their aus destination as well as the starting a late Brazilian Air Marshall and the airport generally operate on a worst can be dangerous. If comfort, point for many adventures into the political activist, Manaus’ airport fixed fare basis, but in other situations reliable schedules and safety are non- Amazon, and its airport is well served was the most modern in Brazil when you should make sure the meter is negotiable it’s best to stick with a pre- o & Ma n & o Ma n & o

r by international airlines including it was inaugurated in 1976. It is no switched on. researched, reputable operator. r American Airlines and TAP Portugal as longer the most modern, but a major Travelling with a reputable tour Rio Neg Rio Neg Rio The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The

3838 39 S S Rio Tapajos O TAPAJ Rio O TAPAJ Rio The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The

4040 41 Introduction to One of the most-visited places in Tapajos is the lakeside town of Alter Tapajos do Chão, a popular backpacker hangout known as the ‘Amazonian The beautiful Tapajos river is the Caribbean’ thanks to the clear, fifth largest tributary in the Amazon, mosquito-free waters and the pristine running for some 1,200 miles through white sand beaches that appear Para state to the border with during the July-September dry season Amazonas. (page 70). The river, with its scenic towns and Tourist infrastructure in the clear waters, is often referred to as town itself is largely geared up for

S ‘the Jewel of the Amazon’, and with backpackers and weekend visitors S good reason. Less exploited by mass from Santarem. Although it’s a tourism than the Rio Negro (page 26), relatively low-scale, budget scene, the it’s one of the most beautiful areas of beaches nearby are the finest in the the jungle and is home to some of the entire Amazon. As there are no high O TAPAJ Rio best beaches. end accommodations, luxury travelers O TAPAJ Rio Visitors can see the three different tend to find that a good yacht cruise types of Amazon waterways and is by far the best way to escape the ecosystems in relatively close proximity crowds and explore the region’s true to one another: the black waters of beauty. the Arapiuns river, the murky waters Private yacht tours will also take in of the Amazon river and the rare the ‘meeting of the waters,’ and other clear-blue waters of the Tapajos river. land and river-based activities such as The white sand beaches that emerge piranha fishing, kayaking and nature here in dry season are unlike any walks can be easily arranged for others in Brazil, and are as quiet and those on yacht cruises. Jumping from pristine as Rio’s beaches are packed the deck of the boat into the crystal The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The and hectic. clear waters is one not-to-be-missed A mazon Brazilian The The blue-green waters are too acidic experience, a guaranteed hit for kids. to attract mosquitoes, making this region a popular choice for families visiting the Brazilian Amazon, while the abundant flora and fauna are a draw for nature lovers and birdwatchers. Another high point is the meeting of the waters, visible from the pier at Santarem, where the blue Tapajos meets the brown Amazon, and the two run side by side for miles without mixing. Keep an eye out for the river dolphins here.

4242 43 Exploring the Although less accessible than the crowds here in favour of more remote, Private yacht charters in Tapajos Rio Negro the Tapajos can still be serene lodgings, and it’s best avoided For a truly unique experience, those Tapajos region comfortably explored, and the at weekends when it becomes a with the budget might consider absence of mosquitoes, the incredible raucous playground for Santarem chartering a private yacht to visit the Although it has a scattering of small beaches and opportunities for jungle locals escaping the city. Tapajos region. By sleeping onboard towns and beach resorts, the Tapajos excursions make itineraries here a The emerald green lake at the heart and setting your own agenda it’s region’s greatest attraction by far is favourite for families, couples and of Alter do Chão is a key part of its possible to visit pristine areas that its pristine natural setting and the those wanting to see the Amazon far appeal, and many itineraries will also travellers based in Alter do Chão will scarcely-believable beauty of the away from the tourist trail. make time for trekking up to the not reach. sandbanks and beaches encircling Most trips start and end in Santarém Piroca hills for panoramic views over As you go further up the Arapiuns tropical islands and archipelagos. - a slow-moving city at the confluence the jungle. River during the dry season (page 70)

S The area is popular with backpackers, of the Amazon and Tapajos rivers. Smaller vessels will be able to follow you’ll encounter stunningly beautiful S but those traveling by private yacht Its breezily laid-back feel of a fishing the Arapiuns River from here - the beaches with not another soul in will easily be able to escape the village is a stark contrast to the virgin beaches are so isolated that sight - perfect for docking your yacht, crowds, slipping away from the busy commercial rush and constant crush of most visitors will have them all to stringing up some hammocks on the tributaries to find their own beaches traffic in Manaus and Belém. themselves - and cultural visits can be beach and watching the sunset. O TAPAJ Rio for the day. While some travellers may choose to made to the riverside communities. The Arapiuns region also has some O TAPAJ Rio Some of the best strands in the unwind at the simple restaurants here Most journeys will also take in trips interesting communities, including jungle can be found along the and take trips into the surrounding along the yellow waters of Amazon the Anã who are running notable region’s Arapiuns river, also notable forest, there are more compelling tributaries - rich in flora and fauna, initiatives for the sustainable for its riverside communities, while sights to be found elsewhere, and one and with ample piranha-fishing development of the region including opportunities for piranha fishing night’s stay is usually sufficient. opportunities - before heading back a fish farming project and a tourism abound in the yellow waters of the Most travellers spend about six to Santarém. project where visitors can spend a few Amazon tributaries. days on the waters around the city, nights in a special hotel - a communal When bathing in the crystal waters with land excursions into the jungle room to hang hammocks, with good gets cold (hint: it won’t) you can and to visit indigenous communities. clean bathrooms and excellent food. always spice things up with a hike into Zip-lining through jungle canopy, the forest or kayaking through the horseback riding, guided nature The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The jungle creeks. walks, and recreational fishing are all A mazon Brazilian The You can also see the Amazon’s three optional extras on most Tapajos tours. distinct colours of water within a From here it’s an impossibly beautiful short distance of one another, and cruise along clear blue waters - a rarity take in a meeting of the waters that in the Amazon - of the Rio Tapajos to attracts far fewer tourists than the the national forest. meeting of the Negro and Solimões A popular stop is the village of rivers outside Manaus (page 29). Alter do Chão, which famously has You can comfortably spend up to a some of the best river beaches in the week exploring the Tapajos region Amazon during the dry season, and is without getting bored, but do give a favourite for backpackers and young yourself sufficient time - the beauty travellers. Lodgings here are simple, so and diversity of the place cannot be most luxury travellers make their base truly appreciated on a whistle-stop on a private yacht. Those on private visit. yachts may well choose to bypass the

4444 45 Getting there & sights and no high-end lodgings in the city. away There are also regular flights from the Brazilian capital Brasilia, which More remote than the Rio Negro, provides quicker connections to much of the charm of the Tapajos Rio, Sao Paulo and other major region lies in the feeling of glorious destinations. There are regular boat isolation and of slipping away from departures to Santarém from Manaus the tourist crowds. and Belém, but with a travel time of The main point of entry is the city of around two days, you’ll want to be Santarém. Its airport is served by the sure you have secured comfortable

S main Brazilian airlines, flying from the berths. Again, a private yacht charter S larger Amazonian cities of Manaus with a well-regarded operator is the and Belém. The flight time from either best way to ensure not only your city is around one hour. The airport own comfort and security, but also is around 15 kilometres from the city to allow for excursions into the areas O TAPAJ Rio centre, and taxis are readily available. that commercial vessels can’t reach. O TAPAJ Rio However, there are few compelling The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The

4646 47 Belém and Belém and M arajó and Belém Marajó M arajó and Belém The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The

4848 49 Introduction to Switzerland and home to gorgeous late-afternoon stroll thanks to its main attraction for most visitors. The beaches in dry season. good selection of restaurants and largest, Marajó, is the biggest river Belém and Marajó Visitors usually make a beeline for food-focused bars. Even the drinks island in the world, and the second the islands, and Marajó is a far more offer a wealth of new tastes, with all largest island in South America. The capital of the state of Pará in compelling destination than the manner of tropical fruits blended into Located between the Amazonas and the northern reaches of the Brazilian city itself. Famous for its beaches, delicious - and potent - cocktails. For Tocantins rivers, the island really is Amazon, Belém is the 11th most water buffalo (local lore holds that real gastronomic treats, gourmands a world unto itself, with a buffalo- populous city in Brazil and is around they came here when the ship they should pay a visit to Remanso do mounted police force, fewer cars than 100 km upriver from the Atlantic were being transported on was Bosque - manned by talented young bicycles, and a slow pace of life in the Ocean, on the banks of the Pará river. washed ashore) as well as the many Chef Thiago Castanho, and cited small towns and villages that dot the The Pará is a major waterway of the indigenous bird species and other among the 50 best restaurants in island. Amazon network, separated from native animals such as black caiman. Latin America. Here, indigenous Descendants of the Marajoaras the Amazon itself by the enormous Belém is not a long-stay destination ingredients are presented in an indigenous culture now run farms Marajó Island. in itself for luxury travellers, but there ultra-contemporary fashion that on the island, and many are open to are some interesting things to see and has wowed many food critics. The family visits. There are some culinary do here for those starting or ending seafood-focused Remanso de Peixe treats to be enjoyed here too - most Belém and M arajó and Belém a cruise in the city. There are some serves what is considered by many to notably buffalo cheeses, and buffalo M arajó and Belém fine squares, the largest of which is be some of the most delicious fish in steak. the Praça da República, and wide the world. The most accessible part of the island avenues flanked by handsome historic Belém’s market is interesting enough is the eastern shore, where the small buildings. to merit an hour or so trying local towns of Joanes, Salvaterra and Soure Top of the list of tourist attractions foods and shopping for keepsakes, provide access to cafés, convenience is Mangal das Garças - a very well- while the cathedral, basilica and stores and a couple of ATMs, but it’s maintained park with a bird sanctuary neoclassical theatre are other key best to bring plenty of cash as the An historic city with a busy port, and a butterfly enclosure that attractions. ATMs are not always in working order. Belém is famed for its abundant allows visitors to admire some of Despite Belém’s charms, the islands mango trees, and is the starting the many beautiful, colourful and surrounding the city remain the point for many Amazon river trips. intricately-patterned species that The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The It’s renowned as one of the culinary live in the jungle. Take the lift up the A mazon Brazilian The capitals of Brazil, and many of the park’s tower, which offers sweeping nation’s top chefs come here to learn views over the park, city and out to about Amazonian ingredients, such as the rainforest, before crossing the the many endemic species of fish, fruit wooden bridge that joins the park and vegetables. There are some truly complex with Manjar das Garças - the excellent restaurants in Belém, and park’s acclaimed restaurant, which foodies will find yet more treats at the specialises in sophisticated dishes city’s market and gentrified docks. made with locally sourced ingredients, The city sits on an archipelago that such as grilled lobster with shrimp is part of the vast estuary system risotto, or Red Angus steak with created by the Amazon discharging crisped potatoes and snail butter. into the Atlantic. The biggest and Foodies in Belém will also enjoy most famous of the islands is the truly the Docas - Belém’s restored port vast Marajó, a river island the size of area, which makes for a pleasant

5050 51 Exploring Belém and If you’re on a tight schedule you landscapes, the eastern highlands, might choose to bypass the city and covered in mangrove swamps, shrubs Marajó head straight to the many islands and farmlands and the jungle-covered in the surrounding archipelago. At lowlands. The entire navigable network of Belém, the Amazon river splits into Flooded during the wet season, Amazonian rivers and tributaries endless channels, creeks and two these lowlands become grazing spans out from Belém, offering almost great estuaries which separate Marajó territory for the water buffalo that unlimited scope for exploration. It is from the mainland. The Tocantins river have become a symbol of the island. possible to use the city as a departure joins the southern estuary, offering Marajó easily merits a couple of days’ point for adventures far upriver, many opportunities for exploring. stay, and can be reached by boat or but the nearby archipelago of river The archipelago surrounding the small plane from Belém. islands offers plenty of reasons to city can be explored in days, weeks, Visits to buffalo farms are popular hang around and spend a few days or even longer. Where you go and with families and kids, while the exploring. what you see depends very much on abundant bird and animal life makes Belém is one of Brazil’s most the season, as the landscape differs for some good nature-spotting and important gastronomic centres, enormously during the wet and dry photo opportunities. Belém and M arajó and Belém and foodies can dine on delicious seasons (page 70). Other key destinations within M arajó and Belém Amazonian ingredients prepared Whatever time of year, a trip from reasonably easy reach of the city with great flair at some of the most Belém to Marajó is essential. By ferry, include the beach island of Algodoal, acclaimed restaurants in the country. it’s a journey of just over three hours an unspoiled resort popular with Food aside, there are some interesting from Belem’s main boat terminal, backpackers. The traditional village of sights to be found in and around the are eye-catching, and during the dry arriving at the town of Salvaterra on Icoaraci, around 25 km north of Belém city, including a good park with bird season there are dozens of pristine the eastern shore of the island. At on the Praia do Cruzeiro in Marajó and butterfly-watching opportunities beaches nearby. Some of which can over 40,000 square kilometres, Marajó Bay, is famous for its Marajoara at Mangal das Garcas, and some eye- be reached by ferry from Belém’s busy has all the diversity of landscape and pottery. catching neoclassical architecture - its downtown boat terminal - others only ecosystem anyone could want. grandeur a legacy of Brazil’s rubber by private yacht. The dry season reveals two distinct boom. The waterfront market, known as The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The Ver-o-Peso (literally, ‘see the weight’ A mazon Brazilian The as products are sold according to weight) is notable for its towers and for its abundance of fresh fish, seafood and other local produce such as medicinal herbs, talismans and even supposed aphrodisiacs. Be sure to try acai from a market specialising in the Amazonian power berry used to make energising juices and smoothies. The once-rundown port area known The city’s neoclassical buildings as Docas is now a fashionable area - including a fine theatre and a packed with bars and restaurants, handsome public square that regularly and is a popular spot for an afternoon hosts free classical music concerts - stroll and a bite to eat.

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5454 55 Xingu National Park outside world. Outsiders are allowed tribespeople. It’s important to to enter at the invitation of the appreciate exactly what this entails: Overview tribes, and a handful of scrupulous accommodation is in mud and straw travel operators have built positive huts with basic, outside toilets. Buried deep in the jungle of northern relationships with some of the tribes, Simple meals are prepared with the Mato Grosso, Xingu National Park making it possible for visitors to spend ingredients of the land and river. is a hard-to-reach destination with time with them. Travellers usually stay for just one enormous appeal to culturally-curious Reaching here takes a determined or two nights and the ideal time to ns travellers willing to forsake a few effort, the costs involved are high visit is from mid-May to mid-August. ns o o creature comforts for an opportunity while comfort levels are low, but It is unwise to visit in September to get a taste of life in the Amazon in place of luxury is the ability and October, when forest fires are a rainforest. to participate in a positive, non- hazard, or between December and Here, in an area that covers close to exploitative cultural experience that is March, when torrential rains are Getting there 2.3 million hectares, around 6,000 truly unique. common. Xingu tribespeople live their lives, The welcome will be a memorable Charter flights are the only practical much as they have done for centuries. one - with a ceremony led by the way to reach this region, making it an Other Destinati Other The residents, actually a loose cultural chief, an exchange of gifts (your gifts expensive - but extremely rewarding Destinati Other grouping of various individual tribes, are very welcome and your operator - trip for culturally-curious travellers. inhabit approximately 30 villages in will advise on appropriate items) and Visitors to Xingu normally fly to either an area that has been designated as a a tour of the tribal village that will be Goiania or Cuiabá - the nearest large protected indian-only area since 1961. home for a night or two. cities - before boarding their plane The protected area was established Men may be invited to hear talks in a to Rancho Jatoba - a frontier ranch after tireless campaigning by the male-only central hut, before a simple used as a base for travellers. Some three Villas-Bôas brothers, Brazil’s dinner of fish, manioc, rice and the operators will provide accommodation celebrated indigenous rights activists, fruits of the last hunt, followed by at a support base for a night or two, who successfully advocated for the nocturnal spear-fishing. before heading into Xingu National entire area of the upper Xingu river Other highlights of a visit may Park itself. to be protected from development include joining the tribespeople on The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The and from unwanted contact with the guided treks through the forest to A mazon Brazilian The outside world - contact which had led observe birds and other animals; to the death of countless indians due swimming in clear-water lakes, to exposure to diseases. exploring the tributaries and creeks by This was the first large-scale region canoe; watching indigenous dances, of the Brazilian Amazon to be given watching tribal body-painting (and protected status, paving the way for possibly even being painted yourself) several more. A film about the Villas- and nocturnal fishing with spears. Bôas brothers’ fight to protect the It is a genuinely back-to-basics Xingu tribes - Xingu - is an interesting experience that is certainly not watch for anybody with an interest in for everybody, but which will thrill the region and its story. Exploring Xingu National Park anybody wishing to learn about real A closed park, Xingu receives very Visitors to Xingu eschew modern life for the indigenous peoples of the few visitors each year, but its tribes material comforts in order to see Amazon. are accustomed to contact with the at first hand the lifestyle of the

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5858 59 Tefé & Uakari lodge Institute and staffed by members of the reserve’s indigenous communities, Overview the unique lodge is made up of five floating bungalows, each of which Nearly 600 kilometres west of have views of the river and forest. Manaus on the south bank of the Solar energy, rainwater collection Solimões river, the small Amazonas and recycled construction materials town of Tefé is notable for two ensure the reserve delivers on its ns things - its proximity to the Mamirauá sustainable principles. The lodge ns o o Sustainable Development Reserve, isn’t for those who value personal and the Uakari floating lodge which comfort above all else - there’s no is in the reserve. If you are coming air conditioning and the solar panels to the Amazon to see wildlife and supply only weak minimal ventilation are willing to sacrifice some creature in the tropical heat - but the real comforts, this is your place. luxury is to get up close and personal Mamirauá itself is the biggest with the animal inhabitants of the Other Destinati Other protected flooded forest in the world, jungle. Destinati Other located between the rivers Solimões, Kayaking through the wetlands with Japurá and Auti-Paraná. local guides, visitors should keep an The vast wetland is home to many eye out for pink dolphins, three-toed rare species, and the water levels sloths, and manatee, among many vary some 10 to 12 metres between other creatures native to the area, and wet and dry seasons - during the wet some rare species of monkeys such as season, vast swathes of the wetland the black-faced squirrel monkey which are flooded right up to the treetops can sometimes be glimpsed in the (page 70). treetops. Birdlife is abundant, as are pink river dolphins. Keep your eyes and ears Getting there The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The open for the splashing somersaults Despite the sense of isolation (there’s A mazon Brazilian The of the pirarucu, the Amazon’s largest no road access at all) it’s not too hard fish. Don’t be tempted to join the fish to reach Tefé. There are regular flights in the water, though - there are giant from Manaus, a leisurely two-day alligators down there too. slow boat trip or just 12 hours by fast The region’s most famous - and boat. Most visitors will want to stay at elusive - residents are the Uakari least two or three days. The town of monkeys, an endemic species found Tefé itself has little to grab travellers’ nowhere else on earth. attention - the real appeal is in the reserve. Exploring Tefé The famous Uakari floating lodge is a solid example of sustainable tourism done well. Run by the non- profit, research-focused Mamirauá

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6262 63 distinct to those farther north, and and listening to the sounds of insect there are many species of flora and and animal life, is a wonderful way to fauna that are unique to the area. The unwind. forest here is not prone to flooding, which makes for taller trees and a Getting there jungle canopy that attracts a vast Truly isolated, the Cristalino Lodge is array of birds and mammals including not accessible by the cruise ships that the rare white whiskered spider travel along the Amazon River. Arrival ns monkey. here involves taking a flight to Alta ns o o Most trips will allow time for Floresta (regular flights from the town swimming in the river, bird watching of Cuiaba have connections to Rio and ascending into the 50 meter de Janeiro and Sao Paulo, and flights canopy, from where it’s possible to take around one hour), followed by a Alta Floresta other tropical fruit eaters flock here to spot several types of primates as well drive of an hour and a half, and then feast on cecropia - an Amazonian fruit as myriad birds. According to the an hour’s boat trip. Overview that can be found in abundance on season, itineraries will also include Transport is provided by the lodge, Other Destinati Other The remote Alto Floresta in the the lodge’s trees. treks or kayaking trips through the so it’s less of an ordeal than it sounds, Destinati Other southern state of Mato Grosso, is The Cristalino Lodge sits in a private jungle - a popular trail includes the although adverse weather conditions home to Brazilian Amazonia’s biggest reserve that stretches for almost brazil nut trail, which takes in an area can add considerably to the travel - and arguably its best - jungle lodge, 45 square miles, and is dense with rich in these native nut trees. times during wet season. the luxurious Cristalino Lodge. primary rainforest. The lodgings The lodge’s guided excursions will As it takes such a determined effort It’s a paradise for bird watchers themselves are top-of-the-range with keep you busy from dawn to beyond to get here, most visitors will want - the ecosystem here is home to some higher-category rooms boasting dusk but try to set aside some time to to stay more than a couple of days many endemic species, and the private jacuzzis. simply sit and absorb the ambience and a stay of three to five nights is lodge’s enthusiastic guides are highly Conservation is taken seriously at the of the jungle. Sipping a caipirinha recommended. knowledgeable about the wildlife reserve, which is divided into areas on the deck after a river swim, while here. for tourism, conservation, research looking at the impossibly starry sky Serious birdwatchers and and monitoring. The ecolodge is The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The ornithologists have a great deal to frequently cited as one of the world’s A mazon Brazilian The be excited about here - it’s one of best, and its observation towers, the best places in the entire Amazon hugely knowledgeable staff and region for birdlife, with more than responsible approach to tourism and 570 known species, and new species conservation make it a very much a still being discovered. Much of the destination for serious nature lovers. birdlife is endemic to this region, and As well as the celebrated birdlife, visitors can follow land trails or take many large forest mammals live river boat trips in the hope of spotting here - animals native to the region inhabitants such as the razor-billed include tapir, giant anteaters, collared curassow and the red-throated piping peccaries and southern tamandua. guan. Just relaxing in the lodge’s tree-filled clearing provides plenty of Exploring Alta Floresta bird-spotting opportunities - many The most southern region of the species of toucan, macaw, parrot and Brazilian Amazon, the ecosystem is

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6666 67 Responsible travel with captured animals, or visiting animal attractions where the The importance of Amazonia to the creatures are not well-treated. well-being of the planet cannot be overstated, and this a region that needs to be treated with the ultimate respect. Sadly, many tour providers do not operate in a sustainable manner, and many visitors are unaware of the importance of minimizing their impact on the jungle, its waterways and its inhabitants.

ces Be conscientious in choosing your ces operator, and be thorough in your research. Check out the operator’s sustainability credentials, and don’t Avoid putting additional pressure on r Resou be afraid to ask questions about their already-overburdened resources. Turn r Resou practices. off the tap when brushing your teeth, Before setting off read up on the keep showers short. areas you plan to visit - the local Properly dispose of all trash, and customs, traditions and etiquette don’t pick anything from the jungle as well as the jungle itself. Good without on the express advice of a operators will provide you with useful responsible and knowledgeable guide. reading material prior to your trip. Stick to the international Leave No Be conscious that the communities Trace principles to minimise your of the jungle are simply living their environmental impact. lives, and are not putting on a show for visitors. Don’t stare or take The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The photographs without first asking A mazon Brazilian The permission, and remember that you are the visitor here. Don’t encourage a begging culture - it is better to donate supplies or money directly to a local organisation, school or other project that benefits the community rather than handing out cash to those who ask for it. Be polite but firm, and don’t be tempted to hand out candies to children, as dental care in rural areas may be limited. Don’t encourage ill-treatment of animals by paying for photographs

6868 69 Climate & when to lower water levels during dry season, and this is arguably the best time for travel family travel. The main advantage of traveling The Amazon isn’t called a rainforest during the wet season is that the for nothing: it rains here at least 130 higher waters allow much greater days per year, with average annual access for canoes and small boats rainfall of 2,300 mm and humidity for wetland excursions. Rains tend levels almost permanently above 80%. to come in short, heavy bursts, so But visitors are often surprised by the there will be plenty of dry periods for variation in precipitation and climate exploring even during the wet season. which can vary greatly by season and Events & festivals

ces region. ces The Amazonian winter or wet Be sure to book accommodation season, runs between January and and travel well in advance if you June, and summer or dry season, plan to visit the region during the r Resou between July and December. high seasons of July-August, and r Resou In the northern Amazon - home December-January. to Santarem, Manaus, and other Carnival, whose dates move in major destinations, it starts to rain in accordance with Lent, is low key December and the rivers progressively here in comparison with destinations rise until June, when the water is at its such as Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo, peak. and the Amazon’s biggest party is Rainfall averages vary between 300 the Parintins Festival, in June. It’s a cm per month in March and April, and colourful folk festival, and second less than 60 cm in August. only to Rio Carnival in scale and visitor In the Southern Amazon, home to numbers. The event takes place in a Alta Floresta, the rains can vary from giant arena, slightly incongruous in The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The as much as 442 cm in March, to less the remote Amazon town of Parintins, A mazon Brazilian The than 10 cm in July. Temperatures vary and there are few luxury lodgings, little throughout the year, hovering at but some cruises will include it in their around 30 degrees. itinerary. Travelling to the Amazon can be Opera fans may want to be in comfortable and hassle-free in both Manaus during the city’s April-June the wet and dry seasons, provided opera season, where there are some you come prepared for the climate impressive shows at the iconic Teatro (see Packing List, page 76). Amazonas. Both seasons have their pros and cons, and choosing the best time to visit depends mostly on your preferred activities, interests and expectations. The white sand beaches of Rio Tapajós (page 42) appear with the

7070 71 Giant river otters can be spied (or at least heard) splashing in the water as they hunt for fish. There are many species of monkey in this southern region of the Amazon too, with howler monkeys and capuchins the most easily sighted, although visitors may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one. Collared anteaters, three-toed and which can reach four metres in length. two-toed sloths also inhabit the area, Once on the brink of extinction due to Nature and wildlife animal further up the food chain. although they only occasionally reveal overfishing and habitat loss, numbers

ces The major trade off is that these themselves, while encounters with big are now recovering thanks to a ban ces The wildlife of the Brazilian Amazon waters aren’t suitable for swimming cats such as jaguar, puma and black on commercial fishing. is more reclusive than you might - think piranhas and caiman - and panthers are rare but not unheard There are hundreds of species of expect and you’ll be disappointed that mosquitoes necessitate plenty of of. Although you’re highly unlikely to birds here, including the yellow- r Resou if you arrive expecting to see large insect repellent and covering up any find yourself face to face with a big rumped cacique, several types of r Resou mammals at every turn. bare skin. cat, at the very least your guide might toucan, and hoatzin, notable for their For nature lovers, the joy of the help you identify paw prints and other spiky plumes. Cormorants and egrets Amazon is in understanding the clues to their presence. frequent the riverside, while giant forest’s nuances and learning where The famous Uakari Lodge, over an caiman slide beneath the surface of and how to spot its shy inhabitants. hour’s boat ride from the Amazon the water. Patience is rewarded handsomely: town of Tefé, offers fewer creature Most famous of the reserve’s allow your guide to teach you their comforts, but entices nature lovers inhabitants is the Uakari monkey that behaviours and habitats and this with its prime location in the heart gives the lodge its name. This rare red- universe of birds, monkeys, reptiles of an ecosystem that is bustling even faced monkey, endemic to the region, and countless species of marine by Amazonian standards. Located in is somewhat elusive, but many visitors animals will gradually reveal itself to the vast Mamirauá nature reserve, are lucky enough to catch a glimpse. The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The you. Generally speaking, the more remote the waters here are home to one of A mazon Brazilian The If wildlife spotting is your main draw, the location, the better for spotting the world’s largest freshwater fish in you’ll need to sacrifice the beaches wildlife. The remote lodges such the form of the piraruca (Arapaima), and crystalline waters of Tapajos: as Cristalino Lodge in Alta Floresta murkier brown waters attract more (page 64), and Uakari Lodge (), in the insects, which in turn attract every southern region of the jungle, offer the chance for wildlife enthusiasts to venture far off the beaten track. The Cristalino Lodge is a luxurious base from which to spot animals such as the Brazilian tapir - South America’s largest land mammal, and capybara - the world’s largest rodent - which can commonly be seen grazing along the river banks from July to October.

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7474 75 Recommended • Several changes of layerable clothes, including lightweight packing list trousers and long-sleeved shirts to prevent insect bites. Expect to be a long way from stores, • At least one smart outfit for pharmacies and ATMs for most of dining/nightlife. your time in the jungle, and pack • Tropical strength insect repellent accordingly. and repellent wrist bands for babies and young children. Essentials will include: • Several pairs of cotton socks and • Any medications needed, plus underwear. surplus if possible. • Sunglasses, hat and sunblock.

ces • A lightweight daypack for • Spare contact lenses/glasses. ces excursions. • Post-bite cream. • Comfortable, lightweight hiking • Water bottles. shoes, ideally waterproof. • First aid kit, including essentials r Resou • Camera, waterproof camera case such as diarrhoea tablets, r Resou and spare batteries. paracetamol, band-aids, • A lightweight, foldaway rain bandages, antiseptic, blister jacket. plasters and antihistamine cream. • At least one fleece or warm sweater for cooler evenings. • Sandals for the beach. • At least a couple of changes of swimwear - bring protective clothing with sun protection for children. The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The

7676 77 Eating and drinking include maniçoba - a traditional Useful phrases My name is… - Me chama… dish made with pieces of meat, What is your name? - Como se The Brazilian Amazon is a dream sausage, manioc, and chicory leaves, Brazilian Portuguese can be tricky chama? destination for gourmands and those the delicious freshwater fish such for foreigners to master, and local with a taste for culinary adventure. as pirarucu - said to be the largest dialects make communication Food - Comida With so many types of fish, fruit, freshwater fish in the world - and still more complex. But efforts to Dish of the day - Prato do dia vegetables and nuts native to the of course piranha, which is delicious communicate in Portuguese will be jungle and its rivers, it’s little wonder when grilled. warmly appreciated, and mastering I am vegetarian/vegan. - Eu sou that many fine dining restaurants even a few basic phrases will enhance vegetariano/vegano. (male speaker) / in Brazil and overseas have begun your trip. Note that Brazilians don’t Vegetariana/vegana (female speaker) incorporating Amazonian ingredients take kindly to visitors trying to such as acai berries, tapioca flour and communicate with them in Spanish! Gluten-free - Sem Gluten

ces cassava into their menus. One thing to remember is that, due ces Where is the...? Onde fica o/a… Visitors to the Amazon will be able to masculine and feminine nouns to experience these ingredients at and adjectives, some words differ Where is the bathroom? Onde fica o their freshest, cooked with flair and according to whether the person banheiro? r Resou imagination by locals who really know speaking is male or female. For r Resou how to maximise the potential of example, a male speaker wishing Please may I use the bathroom? native ingredients. to thank somebody would say Posso usar o banheiro por favor? Dining well doesn’t necessarily ‘obrigado’, and a female speaker I am feeling unwell - Estou passando mean formal dining - some of the Smaller fish including curimatã and would say ‘obrigada’. mal most delicious dishes in the Amazon acari are typically grilled, fried, or may be prepared by unassuming baked with a brazil nut crust. When Hello - Ola Do you have…(cold water)? - Tem… local restaurants, and there are served in a tomato sauce the dishes (agua gelada)? some delicious street foods that are known as escabeche. Hi - Oi will have visitors feeling saudades Energy-giving Amazonian fruits I am looking for (a present)… - Estou Good morning - Bom dia (a Portuguese word for a sense of such as acai, guarana and cupuacu procurando…(um presente) longing for something or somebody) are pulped and turned into delicious Good afternoon - Boa tarde What a beautiful view! - Que vista The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The for a long time after they leave the juices and smoothies with a kick, and bonita! jungle. are also made into mousses and other Good night - Boa noite Chefs on board the best yachts will tempting desserts, while simple root Excuse me - Dar licenca create culinary miracles with the riches vegetables such as cassava are used of the river and the forest, while the to make everything from tapioca Sorry - Desculpe handful of high-end lodgings in the pancakes to butter-baked oven Brazilian Amazon also use native chips and filling cakes enriched with Please - Por favor ingredients to create a true fine dining coconut. The sheer variety of food on Thank you - Obrigado (male speaker) experience. offer means that there are plentiful / Obrigada (female speaker) One of your most memorable options for those with allergies dining experiences will be enjoying a or food restrictions, and high-end What time is it? - Que horas sao? piracaia, a traditional fish barbecue lodgings - as well as chefs aboard on your own private Amazonian river private yachts, are able to cater to May I…? - Posso? beach. most dietary needs and wants. Nice to meet you - Prazer Other highlights you cannot miss

7878 79 About Matueté provide a unique perspective on the country. Private villas, yachts which Founded in 2002, Matueté is Brazil’s cannot be booked online, especially in leading travel design company, the Amazon, are some of our greatest specialising in travel experiences that specialties. cannot be booked online. Over the years, our expertise Brazil is a vast country with has gained us some important an enormous number of travel recognition. Travel and Leisure destinations and experiences, Magazine has named our founder, each with their own seasons and the only Brazilian on the ‘A list’ of the complexities. By understanding each World’s greatest travel experts and guest’s goals and preferred travel Conde Nast Traveler Magazine has styles we guide them through the trip consistently named Matueté as their planning process to help them build Top Travel Specialist for Brazil. the very best itinerary for their needs. Our guests come from all over the But our job goes way beyond trip world. What unites them is that they planning. In a world with over- are all extremely well-travelled and abundant (but often dubious) advice, are not impressed by the obvious. our role is to make sure travellers Their rarest asset is time, which they have an authentic encounter with the consider the one true luxury, and they best the country has to offer, keeping come to us to help them make the well away from tourist traps and most of it, wherever they decide to stereotypes. go! But what really sets us apart is our ability to open the special doors that The Brazilian A mazon Brazilian The A mazon Brazilian The

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