Discover the Ancient Art of

ANNA HERGERT • Kantha •

© Copyright 2014 by Anna Hergert All rights reserved. Images, illustrations and text are the intellectual property of the author. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without the permission in writing from the author. Published and distributed through the author. First edition, based on and expanded from the previous iPhoto portfolio print edition “Kantha - A Primer”.

ISBN 978-0-9937268

i • Copyright and Dedication pages •

To Margarete Walter, my maternal grandmother who instilled in me a sense of adventure in mark-making with needle and thread.

To Colin, my husband and steadfast supporter who tirelessly encourages me in the pursuit of artistic endeavors and life.

To my students who have supported me, cheered me on and challenged me to “put pen to paper”.

ii • Table of Contents •

Copyright pg. i Dedication pg. ii Chapter 1 - A Passion for Kantha pg. 4 - or ? A Brief Introduction pg. 7 Chapter 2 - The Supplies pg. 9 Chapter 3 - The Stitches pg. 11 - From Simple to Complex: The Humble Running pg. 12 - The Method pg. 13 - Variations pg. 14 - The Kantha Outline Stitch pg. 15 - Sample 1: Chatai Fish pg. 18 - Sample 2: Chatai Variation Fish pg. 19 - Sample 3: Dhaan Chori Fish pg. 20 - Sample 4: Golak Dhaga Turtle pg. 21 - Sample 5: Jhinge Phool Turtle pg. ` 22 - Sample 6: Jaal Turtle pg. 23 - Sample 7: Golak Dhaga Girl pg. 24 - Sample 8: Jaal Girl pg. 25 - Sample 9: Dorma Girl pg. 26 - Sample 10: Jaal Bird pg. 27 - Sample 11: Jhod Bird pg. 28 - Sample 12: Dorma Bird pg. 29 Chapter 4 - Kantha Bag - Step-by-Step Instructions pg. 30 Chapter 5 - Kantha Gallery pg. 43 Appendix pg. 51 - Outline Stitch: Quick Reference pg. 52 - Sample Motifs pg. 53 - Suggested Reading pg. 56 - Webliography pg. 57 - Conclusion pg. 58 - Author Biography pg. 59 - Glossary/Index pg. 60 through 71 iii • CHAPTER 1 • A PASSION FOR KANTHA

It all began in 1998 while working toward London City & Guilds Certification. The homework assignment included research into Kantha embroidery. Not much had been written about this specific technique. Little by little I began to embark on a personal quest to learn about this simple, yet effective form, of Indian embroidery. Welcome to an exciting journey you The Piecework article and the book Kantha would become my personal may embark on without a passport, the “Embroidered ” by Sheila Payne obsession, and I soon developed a passion purchase of expensive airline tickets, and from 1990 were my only text and image for the humble running stitch. I am a full- the worry about lost luggage or language sources. The main objective was to create a time artist and much of my time is spent barriers. I invite you to join me as I sample, and I soon realized that all I sharing my knowledge of art and design,. continue to explore the ancient technique needed to do was outline a motif and fill it Kantha projects are very portable and my of Kantha. From the comfort of your in with running stitch. Additional running luggage often contains a small bag with the studio, favorite armchair or your daily stitches in a neutral color to add texture to latest Kantha project. commute you will add to your embroidery the negative space completed the sample. and quilting knowledge. My promise to you Despite its small size, a significant amount During the past decade I have taught is this: You will be mesmerized by the of time was invested which deterred many countless classes covering the basics of simplicity of this technique. At the same of my peers from delving deeper into the Kantha, and continually expanding my own time you will be yearning to try out the subject. I love challenges and won’t let off knowledge base as a direct result. My early stitches in small samples which may lead to until I have fully exhausted a technique or classes were small, often with only three or larger projects in the future. theme. four participants. Today I lead workshops that are fully subscribed with up to 25 My personal journey into the Kantha students and a waiting list. Simple technique began in 1998. An assignment handouts in place and limited personal for my first City & Guilds Certificate read samples, I compelled to explore “Research Kantha and create a small traditional Indian designs in depth. During sample to prove proficiency.” It sounded the summer of 2011 I immersed myself simple enough but remember: It was 1998. further into combining running stitches to Google was not nearly as popular as today, create increasingly complex fill patterns for and all I could find was a Piecework a variety of motifs. Magazine from 1994 with one short article and small project exploring the subject. Each completed sample heightened This general lack of information presented my awareness of how versatile the Kantha a challenge that continues to dominate my technique truly is. From this in-depth My First Kantha, 1998 creative life today. study my self-published book “Kantha - A

5 Primer” emerged. This book was printed by carefully layered to create an even, strong natural surroundings and every day tasks Apple, and the 20 page spiral bound surface for stitching. These intricately when creating Kantha cloth. portfolio provided information beyond the embroidered treasures were designated to basics, supporting my class handouts. It cover sacred statues and offerings to Hindu I already mentioned that my 2011 was not very economical to produce, and I gods. research ignited a newfound passion and yearned for a better way to disseminate my interest in Kantha. Each time I began a findings. I am thrilled about the Today, as in the past, India new sample my excitement grew. I was opportunity to compile my research and embroidery motifs are taken from flora, transported back in time: As a four year old supporting images into a format that will fauna or mythical characters. These are I spent all my free time with my speak to the demographic that is turning to outlined in contrasting thread. grandmother eagerly learning to make electronic devices and e-books to expand Traditionally colored threads were taken marks with needle and colorful thread. At their reference library. from the selvedge edges of the sari. Once the same time I had a passion for coloring the motif is established additional threads books. Opening a new, unspoiled coloring Let’s move ahead and explore are pulled through the layers of fabric for book was a special time for my younger historical details that will become the strength and to fill in the motif. These self. This mood was recreated when I building blocks for your personal journey. stitches add rich texture to an otherwise started each Kantha sample featured in plain background. Ultimately, worn fabrics “Chapter 3 - The Stitches”. My past research revealed that the take on a new life as Kanthas. Sanskrit word kontha means ‘rags.’ It Consider this your invitation to join refers to its original singular use of piecing Historical Kantha embroidery was me on this journey into history. Familiarize together scraps of cloth to be worn by comprised primarily of running stitches to or reacquaint yourself with the humble Buddha’s disciples. create specific patterns and textures. running stitch. Combine, regroup, recreate Motifs were steeped in religion and and invent new ways to make your mark Indian folklore and limited written emulated the natural surroundings of the with needle and thread on cloth. Embrace records help us understand better how to embroiderer. Today’s Kanthas are often the process! employ embroidery and quilting stitches to produced for sale to Western markets. extend the life of an old sari or saree. Motifs appear more simplistic and stylized Originally, Kantha embroidery/quilting, to make them appeal to a broader market. was worked with threadbare sari cloth, Embroiderers continue to capture their

6 • CHAPTER 2 • THE SUPPLIES

Kanthas have been produced for centuries. Imagine the setting: A humble dwelling with dirt floor, dusty front stoop, children playing and household chores to attend. With only a few moments to spare each day the embroiderer keeps her supplies to a minimum ensuring portability and affordability. • CHAPTER 3 • THE STITCHES

From Outline Stitch, simple running stitch to creating complex fill patterns when combining running stitches the options are limitless. Thread your needle and follow along! • The Kantha Outline Stitch •

The Solid Outline Stitch

Once the artist selects a motif, the basic shape is transferred to the fabric with the help of a chalk pencil or a fabric marker of choice.

I encourage the embroiderer to work a small sample of the featured stitch, especially if this is the first time she/he is exploring this time and thread saving technique. Following the step-by-step instructions will aid in a better understanding of the stitch sequence and reduces the probability of taking stitches out in the actual project.

9 • Sample 1 •

Chatai Fish

Sample 1 features a simple fish. The motif was outlined in stem stitch and filled in with Chatai. The focus was on the even distribution of the stitches within the fish motif.

The background was worked in the same manner. I began by echo stitching worked in evenly spaced rows that subsequently created the ripple effect associated with the Kantha technique.

Materials: - 3 layers of turban cloth - single strands of cotton floss - hand quilting thread to match the background

Time to complete: - 5 hours

10 • Sample 5 • Jhinge Phool Turtle

Sample 5 features the turtle motif from Sample 4 in a very different presentation. Outline stitch was once again used to define sections. Jhinge Phool was worked in carefully planned running stitch formations. The diagram showcases four colors to help dissect the complexity of the all-over flower pattern.

The background was worked in echo stitching.

Materials: - 3 layers of turban cloth - single strands of cotton floss - single strands of silk floss - hand quilting thread to match the background

Time to complete: - 5 hours

11 • Sample 7 •

Golak Dhaga Girl

The female figure’s sections in Sample 7 were defined in outline stitch. Horizontal and vertical rows of running stitch were used to fill in these sections. This is a variation of Golak Dhaga. Compare this sample with Sample 4 with the same pattern name.

The background was filled with simple running stitches to create the wavy, ridged Kantha texture.

Materials: - 3 layers of turban cloth - single strands of cotton floss - single strands of silk floss - hand quilting thread to match the background

Time to complete: - 7 hours

12 • Sample 10 •

Jaal Bird Defined in outline stitch the bird was filled in with a third variation of Jaal stitch. Compare this compound stitch example with Samples 6 and 8.

The background was filled in simple running stitch sections to achieve the Kantha texture.

Materials: - 3 layers of turban cloth - single strands of cotton floss - single strands of silk floss - hand quilting thread to match the background

Time to complete: - 8 hours

13 • CHAPTER 4 • KANTHA BAG

The samples created for this book sparked further interest in exploring the traditional aspects of Kantha. During my research I came across several figurative images on Kantha cloth and decided to develop a “Dancing Girl.” The initial sample quickly grew into a group of Dancing Girls, perfect for the bag project I am sharing here. • CHAPTER 5 • KANTHA GALLERY

Creating Kantha inspired work based on the information I have gleaned during the course of my research is a continuous focus. Handling fabrics, experiencing threads as they pass through my fingers, and feeling the resulting wavy, rippled textures renew my commitment to sharing this ancient craft. My First Kantha, 1998, 8” x 8”

Worked with three layers of Kona cotton, silk floss for the motif and rayon floss for the background Kantha stitching. The stitch motif was based on my City & Guilds “Sea and Sky” design research.

Time to complete: 21 hours

16 • Appendix • Appendix Contents

1. Outline Stitch: A Quick Reference

2. Kantha motif templates. Choose one or all, or step out of the box and alter the motif to suit your personal style.

3. A list of Suggested Additional Reading is provided. It includes books and magazine articles featuring the Kantha technique. 4. A Webliography Additional Resources sharing urls that were live at the time Preparing this book for publication has result in the most professional product a first of this book’s been an adventure. From the time the first page time e-book author is able to present. publication. glared back at me without image or text to proof reading the final version you are holding in your In meeting my personal goal of sharing to 5. Final thoughts. hand, I have learned a tremendous amount. This keep handwork techniques alive I am including was not just a “drop and drag” process of existing additional resources and templates in the hope material. Each sentence, paragraph and image that you will embrace the ancient technique of have been reviewed, adjusted and refined to Kantha embroidery/quilting.

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Thank you for supporting my personal quest into Kantha. I stumbled upon the following quote while conducting research for this book. It is fitting to include and place it close to the end. It summarizes my experience with Kantha:

"Kantha is like a personal diary, a letter one writes to a particular person, and is not meant to be read by all. In East Bengal the Kantha was a personal expression, an art-craft that was made spontaneously, even whimsically. It was never commissioned by rulers, nor ordered by the landed gentry. No two pieces are the same. It was the craft that was practiced by women of all rural classes, the rich landlord’s wife making her own elaborate embroidered in her leisure time, and the tenant farmer’s wife making her own thrifty, coverlet, equal in beauty and skill. The Kantha is an invocation to the gods and spirits for the prosperity and protection of the family. A real Kantha is able to narrate a story, and is much more compact in design, and it is made out of used materials. It has been passed on for generations, from mothers to daughters and is largely a “dowry” tradition."

Krishnadas Kaviraj

Join me in this continued exploration. Embrace the process, as that is how you have to view and experience each Kantha inspired creation. It is not something that is quickly finished. Kantha teaches patience, problem solving skills and ways to adapt to new situations. It is part of life, whether we live in India or elsewhere in the world. We can employ the Kantha technique to tell stories of our lives.

I look forward to hearing from you as you embark on your personal journey into Kantha. Please email me to share your experiences and images. Stay creative and enjoy the process.

Anna March 2014

18 About the Author

Born and educated in Germany, Anna Hergert was exposed to art at an early age. Handwork was a regular part of the weekly school curriculum, naturally aiding in developing her passion for art and textiles as a lifelong pursuit.

! Ms. Hergert holds London City & Guilds Diplomas in Art, Design, Contemporary Embroidery as well as and Quilting. Her strong focus on the arts makes her an enthusiastic and committed artist, well informed teacher, lecturer and writer.

Anna is a full time professional artist. Her work has been exhibited internationally in solo shows and traveling group exhibitions. Venues include Canada, the US, Korea, Germany, Austria and Italy. Commissions are found in Canadian, US and European homes and public spaces. She has received numerous awards for her innovative approaches to quilting and surface design across the country including the Saskatchewan Craft Council and the Grand National Juried Show. She has been nominated for Teacher of the Year by Professional Quilter in 2006 and Willow Bend Creations in 2012.

In 2007 Anna moved to Saskatchewan and now makes her home just north of Moose Jaw at Buffalo Pound Lake with husband Colin. She creates art in her dream studio overlooking the breath taking scenery that serves as constant source of inspiration.

Website: http://www.annahergert.com Email: [email protected] Blog: http://annahergert.me

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