Omega Pacific

It Is Possible Climbing Volume 30 2 OMEGA PACIFIC carabiner cameoff ourassemblyline. expectations, justlikewedidback whenthatfirst the industryandfiguringoutwaystoexceedyour gear. We’ll stillbemaking someofthebestgearin leading thewaytowardsaferandmorereliable improvement andqualitywon’twaiver. We’ll stillbe one thingisforcertain:ourcommitmenttoconstant what changeswe’llseeoverthenextthirtyyears,but As welooktothefuture,it’s impossibletosayforsure them everysingleday. the industry’s finest,butwecontinuetoworkonimproving standards. OurQualityManagementprogramsareamong and buildgoodscertifiedtoCE,UIAA,NFPA andMil-Spec Over thattime,we’vebecomeanISO9000certifiedplant company better. have supportedusthroughtheyearssothatwecouldrealizethosechangesandmakeour We’re proudofthoseaccomplishments,butwe’re evenmoregratefulthatourcustomers in thetacticalmarket. and expandedourreachintorescue,industrialsafetybecomeoneofthepremierbrands robotics andautomationtheindustryhaseverseen.We’ve gainedmarketshareworldwide belay devicesandhavemodernizedourproductionprocessestoincludethemostadvance cold-forging efficienciesandhot-forgingergonomics;we’veintroducednewlinesofprotection, Since ourlaunch,we’veinventedISOColdForgingwhichstrikestheperfectbalancebetween it canbehardtorecognizeusasthesamecompany. We builtourfirstcarabinerin1982andtocompare ourorganization,now, towhatwewerethen, draw someparallels. As wecomparethatwithourowndevelopment,hereatOmegaPacific,it’ become, virtually, mainstream. sport anditspenetrationintopopularculturehasmovedrockclimbingfromafringeactivityto more exoticandreliablethaneverbefore;youngerdiverseclimbersarepropellingthe seen massivechange.Standardshaverisentopreviously-unimaginablelevels;gearhasbecome We’ve beeninbusinessfornearlythirtyyearsand,lookingbackoverthattime,climbinghas The FirstJob IT ISPOSSIBLE Canyon nearBanks Lake,WA. Jon Jonckers -BrettJessenclimbing inNorthrup s impossiblenotto

NEW from Omega Pacific

snow NEW PRODUCTS anchors OPLVW Volcano New Snow Anchors - now color-coded with a beveled spike. See page 25 for details. SNANC24 lava Yellow New ultra-light, all-mountain carabiner SNANC36 built for multi-purpose use. See page Red 18 for details.

OPGPQD-4 gym pro quickdraw OPMDW-4 Steel components on this quickdraw provide superior durabilty and strength. See page 15 dash 4-color cam pack for details. Convenient four-pack of Dashes anodized to match Link Cam colors. Saves time whenever sorting or placing gear. See page 10 for details. screw-linkThe OP Screw-Link is ideal for fixed draws on routes or at OPSCL6 infinity rappel/belay stations. See page 15 for details. wire gate OPGF55LNFPA Introducing the new Infinity Wiregate. We G-FIRST “pinch” it in the middle so The new workhorse for that it’s less likely to get Fire, Industrial, Rescue, hung up in other ‘biners Safety and Tactical or open accidentally industries, The G-FIRST when it’s dragged is the world’s lightest across a rock face. carabiner to earn the full- Easy to clip and strength, “General” rating improved ergonomics from the National Fire make it a real bonus Protection Association! over conventional See page 29 for details. wiregate ‘biners. You can find the Infinity Wiregate on our Dash and the NEW Lava carabiner. OPGF36LNFPA

WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 3 4 LINK CAMS certified toboth CEandUIAA standardsandspecifications. Link Camsarebuilt inourmodern,ISO9001Certified facilityinW another piece. be reliable.IfaLinkCamisnotable tobeplacedproperly, indirection ofanticipatedload,select and effectiveness. Placingapiece“blind”canoftenleadto animproperly-placedcamandmaynot which pieceofgearyouuse,but with LinkCams,properplacementiscrucialtomaximizingsafety •Visually inspecteveryplacementbefore relyingonit! This isanexcellentdisciplineregardlessof initial placementbemadeinproperalignmentwithanticipatedload. Link Cams’ flexiblestemscanhelp“correct”aless-than-idealplacement,itisstillimportantthatthe when loaded,thepositionofaxledoesnotrotateduringafallor whenbounce-testing. Although Link Camsinparticularshouldbeplacedsothatthestemisaimed directlytowardthegroundand, in mind. You shouldalwaysplaceanyremovable protectionwiththisprincipleinmind,ofcourse,but strength anddurabilityofLinkCams,butitiscriticalthatCams beplacedwithdirectionofload the cam“shift”whenaclimberfallsontoit.We areconstantlyresearchingwaystoimprove the lobes, Link Cams can become damaged—and the placement may fail—if a load is placed that makes important withLinkCams,duetotheiruniqueconstruction.Since they arebuiltusingtrisectedcam •Besuretoanticipatedirectionofload,shouldyoufallorweight thecam. prevent thecamsfrom“walking.” •Clipacarabinerandlongerslingtothesewnonwandering routesorunderroofsto within 70%oftheirmaximumrangeand10%minimum,fully-retracted position. the placementlessstableordifficulttoremove. Asageneralrule,deployLinkCamssotheyare •Placecamssothattheyareneither“tippedout”nor“overcammed”aseitherinstancecanmake ensuring thattheloadisasequallydistributedpossiblebetweenallfourlobesets. • Attempt toplacecamssothatthere ismaximumcontactbetweenthelobesandfeature, placements, generally. Flaky, looserockorexpandingflakesshouldbeavoided, wheneverpossible. • Assess theoverallplacementfor qualityoftherock.Dense,solidstonemakesforbetter Here areafewmorepointers: sought beforeusingLinkCams. placement. Ifclimbersaren’texperiencedatassessingnuancesofplacements,instructionshouldbe be placedcarefullyanddeliberately, withacriticaleyeandtheabilitytoassessproper, solid careful considerationtoavoiddamagingthemorcompromisingtheplacement.LinkCamsshould Although LinkCamsaren’tnecessarilymoredifficulttoplacethanothercams,theydorequire machined from7000-seriesaluminumalloy. casting—with increasedstrengthandaremadefrom17-4aircraftstainlesssteel. The outerlinkis process knownasMetal-Injection-Moldingwhichpermitsustocreatedetailed,precisionpieces—like modern cammingdevicesintheworld. The two,innerlinksoneach lobeunitarebuiltbyamodern a hybridblendofmaterialsandadvancedMIMprocess,LinkCamsarethemostsophisticated Mechanically-speaking, LinkCamsareasinnovativetheconceptbehindtheirdesign.Builtwith the firsttimeyougotoyourrack. piece” youneedRIGHT NOW, LinkCam’s largerangeincreasesyouroddsofpickingtherightsize particular piece.Likewise,forbackcountryclimbers,itmeanspackinginlessgear. And asa“crux up onpiecesyouthink“might”needifyou’reunsurewhere,exactly, you’llneeddoublesofone Extended rangemeansyoucanleavethegroundwithfewerpiecesonyourrack;nomoredoubling more rangepersizethananyotherspring-loadedcammingdeviceavailable! Utilizing areliable,single-axledesignandwithcammingratioofover2.5:1,LinkCamsprovide B and permitsanamazingrangeforaunitofitssize. on asimpleconceptoftrisectingcamlobesothat,asthedeviceisretracted,unfurls uilding onarevolutionaryconceptfromlegendarygeardesigner, GregLowe,LinkCamsoperate IT ISPOSSIBLE

ashington State andare This isparticularly

signature feature signature feature Patented, hinged “Swivlets” attach our lobes increase trigger cables to the

range! lobes for smooth action. LINK CAMS

OPLC2

OPLC075

OPLC1 link cams OPLC050

signature feature Cross-Cabling provides increased range!

Weight Length Width mm/ Part # Description Range mm/inch Strength grams/ mm/inch inch Color ounces

OPLC050 Link Cam .5 13.5 - 35 / .53 - 1.38 8 kN 95 / 3.35 165 / 6.5 45.7 / 1.8 Purple

OPLC075 Link Cam .75 17.8 - 44.5 / .7 - 1.75 10 kN 113 / 4 170 / 6.7 48.2 / 1.9 Green

OPLC1 Link Cam 1 21.1 - 53.3 / .83 - 2.10 14 kN 176 / 6.2 171 / 6.75 63 / 2.48 Red

OPLC2 Link Cam 2 25.4 - 64 / .96 - 2.51 14 kN 207 / 7.3 191 / 7.51 63 / 2.48 Gold

WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 5 6 ROCK PROTECTION braided steelcable,they’rebuiltforyearsofuse. identification onyourrack.Slungwithstrong, quality aluminumalloyandanodizedforinstant and machinedfrom6000-series,aircraft- individually orinsets,eachis tapered cracksalike. Available slight flaresandmoretypical, double-taper tofit are builtwitha W wedgies edgies OPWDG10 OPWDG13 OPWDG12 OPWDG11 OPWDG3 OPWDG2 OPWDG1 OPWDG4 OPWDG7 OPWDG6 OPWDG5 OPWDG9 OPWDG8 Part # IT ISPOSSIBLE Wedgies Nut10 Wedgies Nut13 Wedgies Nut12 Wedgies Nut11 Wedgies Nut3 Wedgies Nut2 Wedgies Nut1 Wedgies Nut4 Wedgies Nut7 Wedgies Nut6 Wedgies Nut5 Wedgies Nut9 Wedgies Nut8 Description extruded 19.81 -25.65 17.27 -22.35 15.24 -20.32 13.21 -17.27 26.42 -33.76 22.86 -29.72 11.18 -15.49 Dimension mm 5.84 -10.92 9.65 -14.48 8.38 -13.51 6.86 -11.18 4.06 -9.91 3.56 -9.91 Head 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum 6000-Series Aluminum Material Head 1/16” dual 1/16” dual 3/32” dual 3/32” dual 3/32” dual Cable Size 1/8” dual 1/8” dual 1/8” dual 1/8” dual 1/8” dual 1/8” dual 1/8” dual 1/8” dual Strength 10kN 10kN 10kN 10kN 10kN 10kN 10kN 10kN 2kN 2kN 5kN 6kN 6kN 32 /1.13 43 /1.52 39 /1.37 37 /1.31 58 /2.05 15 /.53 16 /.56 18 /.64 34 /1.2 51 /1.8 71 /2.5 grams/ 7/.25 Weight ounces 8 /.28 ut Tools are the unsung heroes on your rack. Most climbers don’t think of them until they really need one–and then they could mean the differenceN between keeping your favorite gear or donating it to some stranger.

We’ve built one of the most unique, most copied, reliable designs ever offered. Made from powder– coated 4130–chromoly steel and equipped with ROCK PROTECTION a built–in carabiner gate (the first ever), the Caranut Tool easily clips to your harness while climbing, yet remains immediately accessible.

caranut tool

CARANT

WHMR

ALways read the instructions and warnings that accompany your equipment wall hammer ur hammer is, simply, the very best wall hammer ever built. It’s got heft–33 ounces of it-for driving even the most pesky pins in with ease.O The fiberglass shaft reduces vibration and the ribbed rubber handle is easy to hold with plenty of surface contact for accuracy and power. The head has an extended beak for tapping ‘heads and the carabiner hole and butt ring are big enough to accommodate nearly any carabiner out there. Every hammer also comes equipped with our Funkness Device for testing and removing ‘heads and pins. Or, you can use it as a bomber hammer leash.

Weight Part # Description Material Length cm grams / ounces

WHMR Wall Hammer 17-4 Stainless Steel Head 911 / 32 33 w/ Funkness Device / Fiberglass Shaft

CARANT Caranut Tool 4130 CrMo 54 / 1.90 21

Jon Jonckers - Phillip Schaal climbing the Crystal Tower near Marble, CO. WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 7 8 SBG II B and safety. rigid stemandrappel,figure-8style,fortheultimateincontrol what afastandlooseridethatcanbe!WiththeSBGII,wrapskinnycordaround If you’veeverrappedonasingle8mmor9mmropewithotherbelaydevices,youknow Then belayoff theU-Grooves andclipintothebottomholeofSBGIIforlessfriction. even morebrakingpower. Climbingwithfatropes,askinnypartneroronlow-angle slabs? through theV-Slots! Clippinginshort(intotheoblongholecenterofstem)adds Does yourpartneroutweighyou? Are youusingskinnyropes? Then setupthebrakeline need. Least (Rappel Only) Super Max Moderate Maximum Amount Friction Friction Friction Friction Amount Amount Amount free itself. The amountoffrictioncanbecompletelyadjusted whipping outropeinasingle,smoothaction—nomorebindingupasthedevicetriesto y incorporatingarigidstemonthisbelay/rappeldevice,climbersgofromfulllock-off to Of Of Of Of Single RopeConfiguration IT ISPOSSIBLE Double RopeConfiguration signature feature smoother actionand increased versatility. Rigid stemprovides Part # SBGII sbg II Rappel Device SBGII Belay/ Description Bright Color tosuityourparticular 77 /2.72 Grams/ Weight ounces SBGII Aluminum Material figure 8 igure 8 devices remain a popular device for their simplicity, durabil-

OPFIG8-1 ity and dependability. Forged from F aircraft-quality anodized aluminum with 35kN minimum breaking strength. Can be used with double, half or single rope systems RAPPEL for rappelling or belaying.

WEIGHT PART # DESCRIPTION GRAMS/ STRENGTH OUNCES OPFIG8-1 Figure 8 Belay/Rappel Device 105 / 3.7 35kN rappel rings RAPRNG Aluminum Rap Ring 34 / 1.2 20kN

orged aluminum rap ring for bail-outs and rappel stations. Anodized gray for minimal visual impact. Solid construc- RAPRNG tion—notF hollow—for 20kN minimum breaking strength (over 4400 lbs!). Not intended for repeated lowering.

Jon Jonckers - Jessa Younker on a 5.10 crack at the Narrows near Redstone CO. WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 9 10 DASH Dash istheright‘binerforjob. places oraroadsidecragclosetohome, The dictable alpineroutesintheworld’s remotest other, anorexic ‘biners. Whether it’s the unpre it’s builttotakepunishment thatmightcripple strength 3/8”aircraft-qualityaluminum,so lean. We builditfromfull-sized, high- is asnapand,at37gm, The Dashis full inchofgateclearance,clipping never holdyouback.Withnearlya serious use,yetlightenoughto T OPCLKLMDQD-4 OPMDLVQD-4 OPMDAPQD OPMDQD-4 OPMD8W OPMD3W OPMD4W OPMD2W OPMD6W enough towithstandyearsof strength wiregatethat’s burly he Dashisalightweight,full- OPMDW PART # dash quickdraws Part # Dash Cinder Dash Purple Dash Green Dash Bright DESCRIPTION Dash Gold Dash Red IT ISPOSSIBLE Dash KeylockQuickdraw Dash LavaQuickdraw OPMDW-4 Alpine Quickdraw Dash Quickdraw Description GATE OPEN- 24 /.930 24 /.930 24 /.930 24 /.930 24 /.930 24 /.930 ING MM/ dash INCH STRENGTH MAJOR 25kN 25kN 25kN 25kN 25kN 25kN AXIS Dash WireGate Dash WireGate Dash WireGate Dash WireGate Carabiner 1 STRENGTH OPEN GATE 7kN 7kN 7kN 7kN 7kN 7kN Available individuallyorin4-colorcampack. Available inGreen,Purple,RedandGold. size youneedfasterandeasierthanever! cam withacolor-matchedDashandfindthe dash 4-colorcampack O - full setofLinkCams,youcanrackeach Conveniently packagedtoaccompanya ur popularDashWiregatesgetnewcolors! STRENGTH MINOR AXIS 7kN 7kN 7kN 7kN 7kN 7kN Classic KeylockStraight Dash WireGate Dash WireGate Lava WireGate Carabiner 2 37 /1.30 37 /1.30 37 /1.30 37 /1.30 37 /1.30 37 /1.30 GRAMS/ OUNCES WEIGHT OPMD6W OPMDW 93.2 /3.67 93.2 /3.67 93.2 /3.67 93.2 /3.67 93.2 /3.67 93.2 /3.67 MM/INCH LENGTH Strength Draw 22kN 22kN 22kN 22kN 51.7 /2.04 51.7 /2.04 51.7 /2.04 51.7 /2.04 51.7 /2.04 51.7 /2.04 MM/INCH WIDTH 125 grams 116 grams 96 grams 99 grams Weight dash quickdraws

OPMDQD-4 DAS H

OPCLKLMDQD-4

OPMDAPQD

Jon Jonckers - Nicky Dyal on a 5.11 at the Narrows near Redstone CO. WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 11 12

12 QUICKDRAWS OPCLKLQDSB TECLKLQDSB OPFOQDWW OPCLQD6SB OPFOQDSW OPFOQDSB OPCLQDSB OPLVAPQD

Part #

TECLKLQDSB

QUICKDRAQ TELOS Classic Keylock Quickdraw IT ISPOSSIBLE IT ISPOSSIBLE Classic Quickdraw Five-O Quickdraw Five-O Quickdraw Five-O Quickdraw Alpine Quickdraw Telos Quickdraw Dirtbag Draw Description cancer awareness. official colorofovarian quickdraw istealblue,the on thestraightgate, on thebentgateandHERA Engraved withClimb4Life ovarian cancerresearch. which raisesfundsfor purchase tothenonprofit, from everyconsumer is matchingthe$1donated HERA foundation.Omega quickdraw goestothe of thenew Telos keylock T and $2fromeachsale “purpose” or“goal,” elos isGreekfor quickdraw telos Classic KeylockStraightGate Classic KeylockStraightGate Classic StraightGate Classic StraightGate Five-O StraightGate Five-O StraightGate Five-O WireGate Lava WireGate Carabiner 1 draw classic Classic Keylock Bent Gate Classic Keylock Bent Gate Classic BentGate Classic BentGate Five-O BentGate Five-O WireGate Five-O WireGate Lava WireGate Carabiner 2

OPCLQDSB draw keylock classic Strength Draw 22kN 22kN 22kN 22kN 22kN 22kN 22kN 22kN 129 grams 122 grams 116 grams 114 grams 114 grams 116 grams 114 grams 97 grams Weight OPCLKLQDSB

five-o quickdraws

dirtbag OPFOQDWW FIVE-O WIRE/WIRE DRAW

OPCLQD6SB DIRTBAG DRAW draw OPFOQDSW FIVE-O STRAIGHT/WIRE DRAW FIVE-O STRAIGHT/BENT DRAW OPFOQDSB Q UICKDRAWS

he Five O quickdraws ugged and dependable, are a cult favorite among the Dirtbag Draw pairs two climbers with big hands or Classic carabiners with wheneverT clipping while wearing Ra superlight Dyneema draw. gloves. The larger frame equals a significantly The no-hassle clipping of a larger gate opening - up to 32mm of clearance. straight gate matched with the convenience of a bent gate. core a real deal with the Five-O Rack Pack. Six Five-O Wiregate quickdraws with a ALways read the instructions FREE Five-O Screwgate locker - that’s an and warnings that Sadditional $11 value. accompany your equipment

ALPINE QUICKDRAW OPLVAPQD alpine lava quickdraw

WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 13 14 QUICKDRAWS IT ISPOSSIBLE OPCLQD6SB-6 SIX PACK DIRTBAG DRAW Whammy, The Gash,Redstone CO. Chris Hunter -Jeff Jacksoncilmbing Double S leave ‘emonyourprojects. afforable enoughsoyoucan a dayofcragging,and these unitsaregreatfor Dependable anddurable, Locker -that’s a$9value. Draws withaFREEClassic includes FREE lockingcarabiner rack pack package. SixDirtbag in anyquickdraw core thebestvalue O dogbone ‘draws. shoulder-length oras4-inch slings areavailablein light weight.Ratedat22kN, of strength,durabilityand slings &draws dyneema OPSLDY-24 OPSLDY-4 the perfectbalance ‘draws andslingsstrike ur 12mmDyneema CERTIFIED CERTIFIED gym pro quickdraw ake one Omega Steel Screw-Link, one GymPro Steel Wiregate and our 4-inch Dyneema dogbone quickdraw, put them all together, and you’ve got the Tnew GymPro Quickdraw! They’re burly, strong and ready for lots of repeated use. Easy to clip thanks to over an inch OPGPQD-4 GYM PRO QUICKDRAW of clearance and its snappy wire gate, they’re the best thing going for indoor climbing or high-traffic routes.

screw-link uperior strength over other steel screw

links yet the same compact size, the Q UICKDRAWS OP Screw-Link is ideal for fixed draws Son routes or at rappel/belay stations.

OPSCL6

Draw Part # Description Carabiner 1 Carabiner 2 Weight Strength

OPGPQD-4 Gym Pro Quickdraw Gym Pro Wire Gate Screw-Link 22kN 199 grams

gym pro uilt for gyms, this hardened steel carabiner is easy to clip. Conceived after seeing too many severely-worn OPGP6W Baluminum carabiners hanging in gyms all over the country, you can fall with confidence on this plated, steel beauty. Great for fixed draws on outdoor projects, too!

GATE MAJOR GATE MINOR WEIGHT AXIS LENGTH WIDTH PART # DESCRIPTION OPENING AXIS OPEN GRAMS/ MM/INCH MM/INCH MM/INCH STRENGTH STRENGTH STRENGTH OUNCES

OPGP6W Gym Pro Steel 27 / 1.06 40kN 16kN 12kN 220 / 4.3 103.1 / 4.06 57.7 / 2.27

OPSCL6 Screw-Link 10.9 / .43 30kN NA 10kN 77 / 2.7 74.4 / 2.93 38.3 / 1.51

WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 15 safer, stronger and dependable carabiners Nearly 30 years ago, Omega Pacific started out as “The Carabiner People” and we’re still as committed as ever to building the best biners with the greatest value possible. Omega Pacific pioneered innova- tions that make our carabiners safer, stronger and more dependable.

Our carabiners feature a full-sized, true radius wherever a rope runs over it. Carabiners with flat spots in the corners treat your rope like it’s being run over an edge, a potentially dangerous situation with worn or older ropes.

We designed tapered noses and tapered gates to help keep ‘biners in tune longer, but it also beefs up a critical area in carabiners to make them stronger.

We spin our rivets virtually flush to our gates, preventing snagging on slings, ropes or harnesses, helping to ensure Omega ‘biners stay closed when they should.

Take a peek at the corners of a carabiner....do they have the tell-tale dimples indicating they’ve been Since our carabiners are made in the proof-loaded? We test every single US, our anodizing and other production ‘biner to half its rated strength. processes meet stringent environmental and worker safety standards, something that’s important to all of us, but frequently not the case for goods from overseas. How Strong Is This Carabiner? The kN, or kilonewton, rating measures the amount of force the carabiner can accept, as opposed to how much mass it can hold in a static situation. Objects with relatively low mass (like a person) can generate substantial energy (force) when accelerating, so it can be misleading if a piece of climbing or fall-arrest equipment were rated in terms of “pounds” or “kilo grams.” In order to convert kilonewtons into pounds-of-force (another measure of force, not mass), simply multiply the rating in kN by 224.8 (1kN = 224.8 lbf). All Omega Pacific carabiners are stamped with the major axis strength measured in kilonewtons.

16 IT IS POSSIBLE SAFER & STRONGER

Jon Jonckers - Sanam Pejuhesh climbing the Crystal Tower near Marble, CO. WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 17 18 LAVA & FIVE O climbing carabiner. Perfectforalpine,ice,andsport,the aircraft-quality 7000-seriesaluminumandourexclusive ISO ColdForgedprocess,theFive-Oispremierfree- Five-O boastsupto32mmofgateclearance. wire andlockinggatesforvirtuallyanyuse.Builtfrom - F OPLV2W OPLV4W OPFOW OPLVW PART # OPFOB OPFOS PART # OPFOL carabiner. Hugegate clearanceswithdeepbaskets provide ive generationsofdevelopmenthaveperfectedthis OPLVW OPFOW Lava WireGateVolcano Five-O LockingGate Five-O StraightGate Lava WireGatePurple Lava WireGateGreen Five-O WireGate Five-O BentGate effortless clipping. DESCRIPTION DESCRIPTION IT ISPOSSIBLE 28 /1.10 32 /1.26 21 /1.41 24 /.945 MM/INCH five-o OPENING GATE 23 /.920 23 /.920 23 /.920 MM/INCH OPENING GATE OPFOS Available instraight,bent, lava OPLV2W STRENGTH MAJOR 25kN 25kN 25kN 25kN AXIS STRENGTH OPLV4W MAJOR TBD TBD TBD AXIS STRENGTH OPEN GATE 7kN 7kN 7kN 7kN STRENGTH OPEN S without aweightpenalty. it for‘draws,slings,camsandanchors and the34gmweightmeansyoucanuse handling; it’s easiertotelltopfrombottom, Lava boastsreducedmassandimproved multi-purpose useasadailyworkhorse,the replacement, thehot-forgedLava!Builtfor This year, we’reequallyproudtolaunchits it quicklybecameoneofourbest-sellers. with awiregate.We calledittheDovaland TBD TBD TBD GATE all-purpose, OvalizedDShapeframe “All MountainWiregate”bybuildingan everal yearsago,welaunchedthefirst STRENGTH MINOR AXIS 8kN 8kN 8kN 8kN OPFOB STRENGTH MINOR TBD TBD TBD AXIS 58 /2.0 49 /1.7 63 /2.2 57 /2.0 GRAMS/ OUNCES WEIGHT 34 /1.19 34 /1.19 34 /1.19 GRAMS/ OUNCES WEIGHT 108.5 /4.27 108.5 /4.27 108.5 /4.27 108.5 /4.27 MM/INCH true radii(noflatspots)on LENGTH all ropebearingsurfaces. 89.7 /3.53 89.7 /3.53 89.7 /3.53 signature feature All Omega‘binershave MM/INCH LENGTH OPFOL 68.3 /2.69 68.3 /2.69 68.3 /2.69 68.3 /2.69 MM/INCH 51.7 /2.03 51.7 /2.03 51.7 /2.03 WIDTH MM/INCH WIDTH OPD6 OPD5 OPL6 OPL5

standard D COLD FORGED D’S ou’re looking at one of the strongest aluminum carabiners in the world. At 31kN, it’s wicked-strong and represents the most durable design in basic, functional climbing carabiners. Through ISO Cold Forging, we put material exactly where it will Yrender the strongest design possible for a carabiner of its size and materials.

OPLL6 OPLL5 OPLD6 OPLD5

lite D ’s are the backbone of most climbers’ racks and to some, shaving ounces is the most important thing, so we trimmed the weight of our standard D by a full fourteen grams, yet still provide 24kN of major-axis strength! By utilizing ISO Cold Forging Dand a smaller bar stock than our standard D series, we achieve the perfect compromise signature feature between strength and weight. GATE MAJOR GATE MINOR All Omega ‘biners have WEIGHT LENGTH WIDTH PART DESCRIPTION OPENING AXIS OPEN AXIS GRAMS/ true radii (no flat spots) on # MM/INCH MM/INCH MM/INCH STRENGTH STRENGTH STRENGTH OUNCES all rope bearing surfaces. OPD6 Standard D Bright 20 / .787 31kN 9kN 9kN 65 / 2.3 108.7 / 4.28 60.7 / 2.39

OPD5 Standard D Black 20 / .787 31kN 9kN 9kN 65 / 2.3 108.7 / 4.28 60.7 / 2.39

OPL6 Standard Locking D Bright 16 / .630 31kN 9kN 9kN 74 / 2.6 108.7 / 4.28 60.7 / 2.39

OPL5 Standard Locking D Black 16 / .630 31kN 9kN 9kN 74 / 2.6 108.7 / 4.28 60.7 / 2.39

OPLD6 Lite Standard D Bright 19 / .748 24kN 7kN 9kN 51 / 1.8 107.4 / 4.23 55.6 / 2.19

OPLD5 Lite Standard D Black 19 / .748 24kN 7kN 9kN 51 / 1.8 107.4 / 4.23 55.6 / 2.19

OPLL6 Lite Standard Locking D Bright 16 / .630 24kN 7kN 9kN 57 / 2.0 107.4 / 4.23 55.6 / 2.19

OPLL5 Lite Standard Locking D Black 16 / .630 24kN 7kN 9kN 57 / 2.0 107.4 / 4.23 55.6 / 2.19

WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 19 20 OVALS O Omega Ovalsforeveryday, all-arounduse. on themarket.At22kN,it’s 4kNhigherthan otherovals,whichmeansyoucanrelyon Compare foryourselfandyou’llseethatwehaveoneofthe by shiftingmaterialandputtingaluminumwhereitneedstobereinforcetheframe. However, withourexclusiveISOColdForgingprocess,weareabletocompensate PART # OPO61 OPO6L OPO5 OPO6 lower strengthratings. distributed overthelargeradiiatendsofcarabiner, whichtypicallyresultsin val carabinersarearealtechnologicalchallenge.Becauseofitsshape,theloadis Standard OvalLocking Bright Standard OvalBright/Blue Standard OvalBright Standard OvalBlack IT ISPOSSIBLE

OPO6

DESCRIPTION OPO5 ovals GATE OPENING 15/.591 15/.591 12/.472 15/.591 MM/INCH

MAJOR 22kN 22kN 22kN 22kN AXIS OPEN GATE 6kN 6kN 6kN 6kN MINOR AXIS 8kN 8kN 8kN 8kN strongest ovalcarabiners OPO6L OPO61 65 /2.3 65 /2.3 71 /2.5 65 /2.3 GRAMS/ OUNCES WEIGHT 107.7 /4.24 107.7 /4.24 107.7 /4.24 107.7 /4.24 MM/INCH LENGTH 57.7 /2.27 57.7 /2.27 57.7 /2.27 57.7 /2.27 MM/INCH WIDTH OPCLKLL OPCLKLS OPCLKLB classic keylock T up onwires,boltsorslings! all binerthatcan’tgethung frame andyou’vegotado- on thenose,inside gate, eliminatingthe“hook” give itakeylocknoseand signature feature clean “nosnag”usage. Keylock designallows Omega Classicand workhorse likethe ake abestselling classic keylock ake a best selling OPCLKLB workhorse like the OPCLKLL OPCLKLS Omega Classic and Tgive it a keylock nose and gate, eliminating the “hook” on the nose, inside the frame and you’ve got a do-

all biner that can’t get hung CLASSIC SERIES up on wires, bolts or slings! signature feature Keylock design allows clean “no snag” usage.

classic he Classic is … well, a classic. A perfect and simple shape designed for maximum strength, ease of use and OPCLS Textreme affordability. The asymmetrical D series is available in straight, bent and locking gate versions. Setting anchors and top-ropes, the locking classic is the most OPCLB useful and best ‘biner there is. signature feature Flat-spin riveting to make sure rivets are flush with gates. Standard on all Omega carabiners. OPCLL

ALways read the instructions and warnings that accompany your equipment

GATE OPENING MAJOR GATE WEIGHT PART # DESCRIPTION MINOR GRAMS/ LENGTH WIDTH MM/INCH AXIS OPEN AXIS OUNCES MM/INCH MM/INCH

OPCLKLS Classic Keylock Straight Gate 17 / .669 24kN 7kN 8kN 54 / 1.9 104.1 / 4.10 58.4 / 2.30

OPCLKLB Classic Keylock Bent Gate 20 / .787 24kN 7kN 8kN 54 / 1.9 104.1 / 4.10 58.4 / 2.30

OPCLKLL Classic Keylock Locking Gate 15 / .551 24kN 7kN 8kN 60 / 2.1 104.1 / 4.10 58.4 / 2.30

OPCLS Classic Straight Gate 17 / .669 24kN 7kN 8kN 54 / 1.9 104.1 / 4.10 58.4 / 2.30

OPCLB Classic Bent Gate 20 / .787 24kN 7kN 8kN 54 / 1.9 104.1 / 4.10 58.4 / 2.30

OPCLL Classic Locking Gate 15 / .551 24kN 7kN 8kN 60 / 2.1 104.1 / 4.10 58.4 / 2.30

WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 21 22 JAKE SERIES B or Quik-Loklockingmechanisms. or belayloops. Available withScrew-Lok the nose,nomorehanginguponslings By removingthe“hook”oninsideof achieve maximumstrengthduringuse. the Jakeorientsloadpredictablyto carabiner. Thedistinctpear-shapeof OPHMSKLQ OPHMSKLL OPHMSQ3 OPHMSQ OPHMSL PART # functionality andsafetyofalegendary nose andgate,weimprovedthe y adaptingtheJaketoakeylock OPHMSKLQ OPHMSKLL Jake Keylock Screw-Lok Jake KeylockQuik-Lok Jake 3StageQuik-Lok Jake Screw-Lok IT ISPOSSIBLE Side-Swing Gatesprovide Jake Quik-Lok increased gateclearance! DESCRIPTION signature feature Jake Keylock GATE OPENING 28.5 /1.12 28.5 /1.12 MM/INCH 23 /.906 24 /.945 25 /.984 signature feature clean “nosnag”usage. Keylock designallows MAJOR 23kN 23kN 23kN 23kN 23kN AXIS Jake F the 3-StageQuik-Loklockingmechanisms. use. Available withScrewgate,Quik-Lokor provides greatergateclearanceandeaseof unique sideswinggatemechanismwhich able rap’. The Jakeisalsofeaturesatruly the spine,ensuringasmoothandpredict rappels, neitherstrandofropeispinchedon belay/rappel devicesothatindouble-rope problem becauseitalwayscentersyour strength. The Jake’s designeliminatedthis to thenosewhichsignificantlycompromises OPHMSQ OPEN GATE many otherdesignspermitloadingcloser standard forHMS-stylecarabiners. Too or manyyears,theJakehasset 8kN 8kN 8kN 8kN 8kN MINOR 10kN 10kN 10kN 10kN 10kN AXIS OPHMSQ3 105 /3.7 108 /3.8 105 /3.7 GRAMS/ 99 /3.5 99 /3.5 OUNCES WEIGHT 114.3 /4.5 114.3 /4.5 114.3 /4.5 114.3 /4.5 114.3 /4.5 MM/INCH LENGTH OPHMSL 80.0 /3.15 80.0 /3.15 80.0 /3.15 80.0 /3.15 80.0 /3.15 MM/INCH WIDTH - JAKE JUNIOR

or those that love the Jake but want all it has to offer in a smaller package, the Jake FJr. is just the ticket. Available in Quik-Lok or Screw-Lok configu-

OPJKJRQ rations, the Junior is about 10% lighter and smaller than its larger counterpart. It’s perfect for alpinists and backcountry climbers for OPJKJRL whom trimming grams is an obsession.

Familiar to fans of the Jake Sr. are the strong, reliable shape (perfect for Muenter hitches), Jake Jr side-swing locking gates (for extra gate clearance) and Omega’s trademark features like Flat-Spin Riveting, Proof-Load testing, Tapered Nose, and ISO Cold Forging.

GATE OPEN- WEIGHT MAJOR GATE MINOR LENGTH WIDTH PART # DESCRIPTION ING MM/ GRAMS/ AXIS OPEN AXIS MM/INCH MM/INCH INCH OUNCES

OPJKJRL Jake Jr. Screw-Lok 21 / .827 24kN 9kN 10kN 91 / 3.2 104.1 / 4.1 72.6 / 2.86

OPJKJRQ Jake Jr. Quik-Lok 20 / .787 24kN 9kN 10kN 97 / 3.4 104.1 / 4.1 72.6 / 2.86

Jon Jonckers - UCLIMB participant learning to rock climb in Post Falls, Idaho, WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 23 24 MOUNTAINEERING ALways readtheinstructions accompany ourequipment P mountain axe your pack. you’ll barelynoticewhenit’s lashedto is nobeast,however;atunder22oz., shaft. Builttotakeabeating and aircraft-quality6061 T6 aluminumalloy laser-cut NiCrMo, Tig-welded heads, spikes, course, self-arresting.Ouraxeisbuiltfrom bollards, performingboot/axebelaysand,of chopping steps,buildingsnowanchorsor and warningsthat important toolonthemountain.Greatfor roven overtheyears,pioletismost IT ISPOSSIBLE

MAX80-1 MAX75-1 MAX70-1 MAX65-1 MAX60-1 Part # , thisaxe Mountain Axe Mountain Axe Mountain Axe Mountain Axe Mountain Axe Description Aluminum Aluminum Aluminum Aluminum Aluminum Material Handle Jon Jonckers -MountShuksan,WA. MAX60,65,70,75,80 4130 CrMo 4130 CrMo 4130 CrMo 4130 CrMo 4130 CrMo Material Head 686 /24.2 665 /23.4 707 /25 643 /23 622 /22 grams/ Weight ounces Length cm 80 75 70 65 60 snow anchors SNANC36 ur popular Snow Anchors are Red upgraded this year with a beveled spike on one end for Oeasier, speedier use and they’re color-coded by size for quicker identification. Extruded from 6000 series aluminum, Snow Anchors have no sharp edges to snag packs or shred ropes. Available in 24 and 36 inch lengths.

beveled spike on one end MOUNTAINEERING

SNANC24 Yellow

Length mm/ Weight grams/ Part # Description Material inch ounces

SNANC24 24” Omega 6000 -Series 610 / 24 526 / 19 Snow Anchor Aluminum

SNANC36 36” Omega 6000 -Series 914 / 36 774 / 27.3 Snow Anchor Aluminum

All photos - Rob Nadeau WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 25 26 OMEGA PACIFIC Shown withoutkeyrings IT ISPOSSIBLE another Redstone bouldering testpiece. Jon Jonckers -BenRueckcrushing Not Intended For Climbing For Intended Not Accessory Carabiner Solid Gate OPAC accessory carabiners ccessories are used for numerous odd-jobs: holding water bottles, chalk bags, hanging stoves or lanterns, holding stuff down in your pickup, jangling your keys, Ahanging your bike in the rafters or, even, leashing up your best friends.

Ours are built right here in Airway Heights, Washington and are made on the same assembly lines with the same attention to detail as our full-strength climbing carabiners. We figure, if we’re going to make an accessory ‘biner, we may as well make the best.

Your clubs and organizations can have your logo or even a specific event featured on our high-quality accessory carabiners. Each one is made from aircraft-quality, 6000- OPMP series aluminum alloy, anodized and laser-engraved with Minipearabiner your group’s logo or special text, split rings included. Call us Not Intended For Climbing for details on artwork requirements and pricing. Only fifty-unit minimums! Easy for clubs and groups! ACCESSORIES

Jon Jonckers - Ronnie Jenkins climbing in The Gash, near Redstone, CO. WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 27 28 INDUSTRIAL SAFETY OP76S38Q IT ISPOSSIBLE OP12S55LNFPA OP12S58LNFPA ALways readtheinstructions accompany ourequipment and warningsthat OP12A33QCENFPA O address [email protected] For aFREEcatalog,pleaseemailyour steel carabiners,we’vegotwhatyouneed. over threedozenstylesofaluminumand to ensurequalitythroughandthrough.With the highest-qualitymaterialsandprocesses and manyareUL-Classified. We useonly to meetorexceedcurrentNFPA standards to neverletthemdown.Ourgoodsarebuilt fire rescuecarabiners world relyonOmegaPacificcarabiners site, workersandrescuersalloverthe n thejoborinmiddleofadisaster fall protectionand Industrial safety,

OPLH8L OP12A33QNFPA G-FIRST

OPGF55LNFPA

OPGF6LNFPA OPGF36LNFPA uilt as a the new workhorse for Fire, Industrial, Rescue, Safety and Tactical industries, The G-FIRST is the world’s lightest carabiner to earn the full-strength, “General” rating from the National Fire Protection Association! Rated to 40kN, this B‘biner weighs only 4.6 oz —almost 10% lighter than other G-Rated aluminum ‘biners and less than half the weight of steel carabiners. Get them in all-purpose Bright, Rescue Red or Covert Black. SAFET Y

Jon Jonckers - Training session for the Coeur d’Alene Fire Department. WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 29 30

certifed CARE 9001:2008 O P • Besuretowipeoff anyexcesslubrication. basedlubricantwillworkfine,but“dry”lubesseemtopromotelessbuildupofdirtanddust. • Applyalightlubricanttothehinges,springsandpushersinsidegates. themtoairdryforseveralhours. workinsidetheactionofyourcarabinersathinge.Drythemcompletelywithatowelandallow • Dirtanddebrisshouldberemovedbywashing‘binersinwarm,soapywater. Useatoothbrushto • Somesmallscratchescanbebuffed awaywithlightactionfromabrasivecloth. Besidespotentiallyweakeningcarabiners,sharpscratchescandamageyourropesandslings. comeintocontactwithbolthangersandwirednuts.Ifsignificantscoringisvisible,retirethecarabiner • Lookforcracksordeepgouges,particularlyintheinsideofbasketwherebinersfrequently smoothandfree. • Alwaysvisuallyinspectcarabinersbeforeandafteruse.Work thegateactiontomakesurethatit’s • Applyalight(non-paraffin)lubricanttothehinges,springsandpushersinsidegates. • Immediatelyremovethe‘binersfromwaterandcoolthemwithtapwater. ofyourcarabiners. themuponthestovetojustunderboilingtemperature. This meltsthewaxyresiduefromworkings • Soakthe‘binersinextremelyhotwater. You canevenputyour‘binersinapanofwaterandheat problem, takethefollowingsteps: ISO Withthefollowingsimplesteps,youcanensurethatyour‘binersprovideyearsofreliableservice: roper careandmaintenanceofyourclimbinggeariscrucialthisincludescarabiners,too. but withtime,theytendtobuildupawaxydebristhatinhibitsproperfunctioning. To correctthe lubricant onthehinges. These kindsoflubesmayworkfineforcammingdevicesandothergear, n particularlystickygates,we’vefoundthatthisisoftentheresultofhavingusedaparaffin-based care andmaintenance

ward toservingyou.Please feelfreetovisitourwebsiteatwww.omegapac.com orgiveusacall at800-360-3990. Airway Heights,Washington (right outsideSpokane).We takeprideinourgoodsandservices, andwelookfor Over 25yearsafterwe beganmakingcarabiners,we’restillquitepleased tobeaUSManufactureroperating in Made inTheUSA nationally recognizedbenchmarkofquality. meet, aswellexceed, theneedsandexpectations ofthosewhopurchaseourproducts.Inshort, this isaninter- of theISO/QMSsystemisfocusingonachievement ofresultsinrelationtoourqualityobjectivesorder agement System(QMS),enhancingourability toidentifyandbetterserveourcustomers. Omega PacifichasintegratedISO(International OrganizationofStandardization)asthecompany’ Iso 9001:2008 by theUIAA forusebyclimbersandmountaineers. relevant UIAA standard.Climbingandmountaineeringequipment,testedtotheUIAA standards,isrecommended The UIAA SafetyLabelisawardedformountaineeringandclimbingequipmentthatmeetstherequirementsof UIAA representing theEuropeanCommunity. eering Equipment-connectorEN12275and12276). Annual auditsareperformedbyacertificationbody for PersonalProtectiveEquipment- Against FallsFromHeights- Technical ReferenceEN362andMountain ence tothestandardsestablishedbyEuropeanCommunity(asdenotedin Directive89/686/CEE Our CEcertifiedcarabinersaremarkedwiththeicontoindicateOmegaPacific commitmentandadher CE by UnderwritersLaboratory(UL)andisnotedonourproductwiththeindeliblemarkofNFP all ofNFPA’s requiredspecificationsforcarabiners. ThisadherencetoNFPA 1983-2006Editioncriteriaisverified pational safety regulations in the industrial and search and rescue communities. Omega Pacific meets or surpasses The Technical CommitteeonFireServiceSafetyoftheNFPA (NationalFireProtection Association) requiresoccu UL /NFPA IT ISPOSSIBLE Almost anynon-paraffin An importantelement A andUL. s QualityMan-

- - .

WARNING... mega Pacific climbing products are designed and tested specifically for climbing, mountaineering, and technical rope work. OOmega Pacific steel carabiners are designed and tested specifically for fire, rescue, industrial and technical rope work. The user is responsible for following NFPA, OSHA, ANSI, and all other applicable state and federal regulations regarding the use of these products.

All of these activities are inherently dangerous and present the risk of SERIOUS INJURY and/or DEATH.

This product information contained in catalogs and brochures is not a substitute for qualified personal instruction.Any person using Omega Pacific products is responsible for obtaining qualified instruction on the proper use, techniques and limitations involved in such use.

Inspect all equipment before each use and destroy any gear that is damaged, worn or does not pass inspection. Any person using Omega Pacific products is responsible for the proper care and maintenance of these products. WARNING

IMPROPER USE, ABUSE AND/OR LACK OF PROPER MAINTENANCE WILL INCREASE THE RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

Any person using Omega Pacific products in any manner assumes all risks and accepts full responsibility for any damage or injury, including death, which may result from the use of any Omega Pacific product.

Any litigation involving this product will be in Washington State pursuant to Washington law.

The Distributor-wholesaler-retailer is responsible for providing this warning information to the customer.

This warning must accompany all shipments/sales of Omega Pacific products.

Warranty...

WHEN IN DOUBT, REPLACE IT! Omega Pacific products are warranted to the original retail purchaser to be free from defects in material and workmanship for a period of (1) year and will be replaced without charge if, upon inspection by Omega Pacific, no misuse or alteration is disclosed. Omega Pacific makes no other warranty, expressed or implied.

We also support the efforts and contributions of these non-profit partners. Many of them are the backbone of the very sport we love. We strongly encourage every American Alpine Club Outdoor Industry Association climber to maintain Chicks with Picks Spokane Human Society membership in the American Mountain Guides Association Spokane Regional Clean Air Access Fund HERA Foundation The Isaac Foundation The Lands Council www.accessfund.org

Rob Nadeau WWW.OMEGAPAC.COM 31 Thanks to the following for their The following people were vital to the friendship and support...: production of this catalog:

Greg Lowe, Scott Newell, James Booth, Kenji Bruce Andre , Spokane, WA Haroutunian, Krista “Dodgeball” Dill, Jeff and Andy (studio photography) Bastar, Dr. Michael Pang, Tim “Timmay” Alexander, Jon Jonckers, Mat Walden, Rob Nadeau, Rachel Strate, Jack “Can I Borrow A Pen” Roberts, Chris Hunter (climbing photography) Bruce Andre, George Hughbanks, Carlos Buhler, Action Printers of Coeur d’ Alene, ID

Eric Dash, Steve Nagode, Paul Niland, Stephane Front cover photo: “Mr. Nuts” Pennaquin, Duane “Body Cast” Raleigh, Phillip Schaal and Carlo Traversi climbing the Crystal Tower Bill Ayre, Hans “Can’t Go Any Slower” Florine, near Marble, Colorado. Photo Jon Jonckers Karl Strauss, Jay Renneburg, Brian Gallant, Ivo Ninov, Ammon McNeely, Phil Bridgers, Malcolm Back cover photo: Daly, Nathan Smith, Tonya Riggs-Clement, Casey Jon Jonckers appreciating the exhilerating summit of Harrison Peak overlooking Harrison Lake in the North Idaho Selkirks. Newman, John H. Miller, Andrew “Bish” Bisharat, Photo: Mat Walden Jeff Jackson, The Flying Irish and in loving memory of Stuart, who will be missed by good friends.

Omega Pacific, Inc. 11427 West 21st Avenue, Airway Heights, Washington 99001 800.360.3990 toll-free 509.456.0194 fax 509.456.0170 international www.omegapac.com