DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO 559 © Lonely Planet Publications 00 % 243; international access code 243; international % 62.6 million French, Lingala, Kiswahili, French, Kikongo, Tshiluba Country code North of equator: to October), dry (Decem- wet (April Congo is open as are borders Congo is open as are US$80 to US$100 a day Congolese franc; US$1 = CDF432 – from the brazen political folly of King Leopold of Belgium to the hideously of Belgium political folly of King Leopold – from the brazen none GMT/UTC + 1 (west); GMT/UTC + 2 (east) + 1 (west); GMT/UTC GMT/UTC 2,345,410 sq km US$75 for a single-entry, one-month visa; US$140 for a 60-day, multiple-entry tourist visa Visa Area ATMs Borders The with Rwanda, Burundi and Uganda. Angolan border is also open. Tanzania, closed. Zambia is Sudan and CAR are normally open. Budget Capital Languages Money Population Seasons to March), dry south of equator: wet (Novemebr berto February); to Octover) (April Telephone Time Inferno

FAST FACTS FACTS FAST            

The DRC isn’t all failed politics and wasted natural resources, however. Somewhere in Somewhere however. natural resources, DRC isn’t all failed politics and wasted The corrupt ‘kleptocracy’ of maverick megalomaniac Mobutu Sese Seko, and the blood-stained corrupt ‘kleptocracy’ of maverick first ‘world war’. battlegrounds of Africa’s With ground- heart giant. of darkness lies a lumbering African the midst of this proverbial voice to 60 million shell-shockedreaking inhabitants, national elections in July 2006 giving b early post-election violence in Kinshasa, been turned. Despite incumbent a corner may have Joseph Kabilapresident took office in October 2006 under the watchful eye of world’s With five can only get better. In some senses, the future UN peacekeeping force. largest US$24 trillion and an estimated wildlife of teeming whole ecosystems Unesco biospheres, of untapped mineral capacity lying underneath the ground, it goes without saying that is breathtaking. country’s potential Democratic Republic of Congo Democratic Republic of Congo a geographical concept than fully fledged nation, the Democratic Republic of Congo More by swathes is a bubbling cauldron of untamed wilderness carpeted (DRC, formerly Zaïre) almost and smoking Rendered by gushing rivers and punctuated volcanoes. of rainforest closed to all by the central administration in Kinshasa, the country remains ungovernable like something out of Dan- nation’s history reads The but the most brave-hearted travellers. te’s DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO Welshman, Henry totrack MortonStanley, outaprecociousNew Yorknewspapersent missing formore thanfive years in1866,a exploration. After thelearnedScotwent opening uptheAfricaninterior toEuropean the 1860s,whenDrDavid Livingstonebegan Kwanza River inAngola. monarch andstretched asfarsouththe Kongo thatwasruledover byapatriarchal kingdom knownasthe developed a highly pottery andironware, with theymadecontact century. Tradinggoodssuch asivory,cloth, explorershome byPortuguese inthe15th terious partof central Africawere brought basin thatstraddlestheequatorinthismys- first storiestoemerge fromthesteaming river more thananyothercountryonearth.The country nowknownas theDRC hassuffered 100 years of war,despotismandhorror,the Packed byover withpossibilities,butblighted Story Tragic A HISTORY October Apriland while inthesouthitrunsbetween the northisfromDecemberandFebruary (andthebesttimetovisit)in The dryseason which area of thecountryyouwillbevisiting. significantly asyoumove inland. isscantnearthecoast,but increases Rainfall daytime temperatures lingering around 30°C. country ishotandhumidyear-round, with areas,Apart fromhigh-altitude mostof the 560 CLIMATE &WHENTOGO Little more washeardof theKongountil The besttimetogodependslargely upon

   HOW MUCH?      LONELY INDEX PLANET  

EORTCRPBI FCNO • lmt hnt o DEMOCRATIC REPUBLICOFCONGO••Climate&WhentoGo Breakfast Souvenir T-shirt 500ml bottle ofPrimus beer 1L bottled water 1L petrol Average main meal Bottle ofwine Car hire perday Cup of coffee Internet perhour US$0.75 US$5 US$1.50 US$15toUS$20 US$10 to US$15 US$39 US$1.50 US$2toUS$3 US$12 toUS$15 US$2 for the mento bringback ever-greater sup- women andchildren captive asan incentive included raidingvillages These and taking rubbertraders. byLeopold’s the Congolese ber. Hideous crimeswere committed against of the invention of thepneumatictyre –rub- Congo of itsivory,copperand–inthe wake the about fleecing thing onhismind asheset andphilanthropy wasthelast size of Belgium, as hisownpersonal fiefdom. the Congoafree tradearea andcedeittohim vince thefamousIronChancellor to declare British colonialinterests –managed tocon- aware of desire French aGerman tooffset and – upAfrica,Leopold marck in1884tocarve conferencegifts. AttheBerlin calledby Bis- hand over inreturn theirlandrights forpaltry behalf,chiefs trickingthem to onLeopold’s signed more than400treaties withCongo theensuingfive years Over Stanley ganisation. philanthropicor-African Society–asupposed under thesmoke screen of theInternational commissioned himtogobackthe Congo as the‘ScrambleforAfrica’. The resulting Europeanfurore becameknown decided toacquire acolonyinhisownright. To solve theproblemarrogantmonarch governmentBelgian togoalongwithhim. he washaving sometroublepersuading the unclaimed Africangâteau forsometime,but eyeingthe hadbeen Leopold rican affairs, greedy andwhollyignorantofDevious, Af- adventurers, IIof KingLeopold Belgium. uponbythemostunlikelyseized of colonial exploitswere Congolese quickly Stanley’s his ownplaceinhistory. the course of theCongoRiver, thatmarked the British African sojourns, underthesponsorship of in Tanzania, subsequent butitwasStanley’s November 101871nearmodern-dayKigoma him down.ThetwoexpatBritonsmeton10 In 1878 Leopold summoned Stanley and summoned Stanley In 1878Leopold Reported enthusiasticallyin Leopold inherited acountry75timesthe Leopold able. Checkthesituationbefore travelling. information inthischapter may notbereli- research, sosome able todoon-the-ground many areas isnotguaranteed. Wewere un- prone tosporadiccivilunrest andsafety in The DemocraticRepublicofCongoisstill WARNING! Daily Telegraph newspapertotrace lonelyplanet.com The Times,

Democratic Republicof Congothemselves. to annexthelandmassnowknownas pulous kingUS$4millionincompensation andpaidtheunscru- wasenough, enough governmentknowledge, theBelgian realised As crimesgraduallybecamepublic Leopold’s Independence at bay. and keeping the‘cruelArabslave-traders’ aimedat‘civilising theNegroes’ benevolence, as ashiningexampleof finegovernorship and hisCongoventure off passed toring, Leopold earliest examplesof cynicalpoliticalspindoc- chopped Andallthewhile,inoneof off. the did notreturn hadtheirhands theirquota plies of rubberfromtheforest. who Those lonelyplanet.com ATLANTIC (ANGOLA) DEMOCRATIC REPUBLICOFCONGO G ABON Cabinda OCEAN C AMERON Pointe-Noire Muanda Boma Lobito LUANDA Matadi C ONG Ngungu Mbanza- REPUBLIC DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OFCONGO••History A NGOL CENTRAL Kisanto BotanicalGardens AFRICAN

Chutes duZongo

KINSHASA Inkisi River Inkisi

Congo River Bandundu

Libenge Kwilu Kikwit Tumba

Mbandaka Congo River Kasai Lac Oubangui Mai-Ndombe Zongo

Lac River River Akula Gbadolite Tshikapa Idiofa Basankusu Ilebo Binga Kongbo Boende Lisala Lulonga Businga Luau Djolu Mbongo Mobayi-

Bangassou Tshuapa Bumba

Dilolo

realised theirmistake and,with covert US 16 qualifieduniversity graduates –quickly –whohadleftthecountrywithonly Belgians toformacoherentstruggled government, the in1960.Asfrom thecolonisers theCongolese dependence movement finallywrested control matic revolutionary Patrice Lumumba,thein- ver atindependence. preparing forasmoothhando- theCongolese government proved consistently negligent in still hadfew andtheBelgian politicalrights ca’s richest thelocalpeople country,though sickness. Bythe1940sCongowasAfri- schools androads,eradicated sleeping administrationbuiltclinics, The newBelgian Thereafter, thingstookaturnforthebetter.

River River Sankuru Ndu

Gathering paceinthe1950sundercharis- River Ikela

Mbuji-Mayi

Kamina Bondo River Buta Ubundu Z AMBI A Kolwezi

Kindu

Congo River Lubutu Boyoma Falls Punia Kabalo Bukama Likasi Parc Nationalde Wildlife Reserve Obo

Chingola 250miles 400km 0 0 Kampene

River Opaki Mount Nyiragongo Niangara Congo Kahuzi-Biéga Kalima Kasongo (Lake Rwitanzige) Kayna-Bayonga Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Kitwe (3470m) Lake Edward Kasumbalesa S UDAN National Park Parc National des Virunga Garamba Rutshuru Mambasa Uvira Tanganyika Ndola Beni Faradje Mweru Lake Lake Lake Kivu BURUNDI Bunia Mpulungu Bangweulu BUJUMBURA Ishasha Kasindi Kigoma TANZANIA Aba Lake Mahagi KIGALI Aru Yei UGANDA RWANDA Juba Pakwach Albert Lake Arua

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OF CONGO CONGO OF DMCAI REPUBLIC DEMOCRATIC DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO time confidante of –dashed Che Guevara later of cancerinMorocco. a cargo planetoTogoanddiedfourmonths narrowly escapedcapture byhitching alifton inMaymarched onKinshasa 1996.Mobutu siastically byRwandanandUgandan troops, Tutsis,who,supported enthu- enraged Zaïran petuators of the1994Rwandangenocide, he the Hutuper-got hiscomeuppance. Backing the worldinearly1990s,Mobutu finally of politicalchangeWith asea ripplingacross Civil War mismanagement:state kleptocracy styleofa newwordtodescribehisspectacular nepotism thatwriter Michela Wronginvented was hisadministrationwithconnivingand sorifetrips totheChampsElysées.Indeed, hiring Concordetotake himonshopping US$5 billionintoSwissbankaccountsand moreSade–style extravagance, stuffing than ion, hebecamelegendary forhisMarquis de printing moneyasifitwasgoingoutof fash- billion inUSloansover a30-yearperiodand into anartform.Totingupmore thanUS$2 ruption andthesquanderingof stateresources Mobututent dulyturnedcor- thanLeopold, country firmlyintheUScamp. was farfrombeingacommunist,allyingthe of theMao jacket); Mobutuhimself though ing waytothe dropping theirChristiannames,andsuitsgiv- on acampaignof withpeople ‘Africanisation’, thenewleaderembarkedthe countryZaïre, suspiciously towardstheSoviet Union. (and assassinate) Lumumba,whowasmoving DésiréMobutuby armychief tooust Joseph to stem themountingchaos, backingaplot intheCongoorder support, re-intervened 562 the Congolese government.the Congolese support for Zimbabwe waded inwith military and Kabila wasonlysaved whenAngolaand Uganda entered onthesideof the Tutsi rebels whenRwanda and The conflict broadened very Tutsis hehadonceclaimedtorepresent. hisgovernmentcivil war,setting againstthe stage furtherbyplungingthe countryinto rupt asMobutu, Kabila took themadness a of Congo. Proving bitascor- every himself no apparent irony)theDemocraticRepublic opposition andrenaming thecountry(with any hopesearlyonbyoutlawing political Proving more tobeeven himself incompe- The new leader, Laurent KabilaThe newleader,Laurent –aone- and Seko, Mobutu Sese Renaming himself EORTCRPBI FCNO • epe DEMOCRATIC REPUBLICOFCONGO••People abacost abacost (a Congolese version(a Congolese etrable rainforest, and crisscrossed by huge rica, much of which iscovered by impen- The DRC isthethird-largest countryin Af- ENVIRONMENT Christianity. Africa’s mostpopular formof ‘indigenous’ the 1920sand’30s. Kimbanguismremains mysterious figure of SimonKimbanguin aroundthe a Christiancultthat developed ismanifestedminority sect inKimbanguism, Apopular Protestants orRoman Catholics. proximately 80%of thepopulation are either make upmore than40%of thepopulation. Luba andMongogroupingsthatcollectively followed bythe tribe thatdominates, closely and dialects.Notsurprisinglyitis the Kongo groups andmore than700different languages plays hosttomore than250individual ethnic As complexraciallyasitispolitically,theDRC PEOPLE DRC’s future asever. looksasuncertain ation. ForexperiencedAfrica-watchers, the to oversee situ- ashakyandvolatilesecurity world’s largest peacekeeping force)continue cooned in-country,17,000UNsoldiers (the in theSwahili-speakingeast.Meanwhile, co- the electioninOctober2006withalandslide Kabilain Kinshasa. roundof wonthesecond sporadic violencebreaking out,particularly opposition leaderJean-Pierre with Bemba, Kabilamate incumbentJoseph between and astale- Or hadit?The2006electionscaused Today DRC turned. hoped thatacornerhadbeen multipartyelectionsinJuly2006many ever ofwith theestablishment theDRC’s second and displacedanother3.4millionpeople,but war hadclaimedmore than3.8millionlives facing thecountryare stillhuge. By2003the government. Notwithstanding, thechallenges paved thewayforanall-partytransitional the warringAfricanfactionsthatin2002 about presiding over apeacetreaty between old whenhetookpower,Kabila IIquicklyset speaking, Western-educated andonly29years different thanhisincompetent father. English- Kabila theyounger couldn’thave more been byhissonJoseph, bodyguards. Succeeded Kabila inJanuary 2001byoneof hisown culminated withtheassassination of Laurent Despite widespread animistbeliefsap- in1998and war started The DRC’s second lonelyplanet.com warring militias. and Virunga)are intheeast,stillpatrolledby mostofthough them(includingKahuzi-Biéga vast, beautifulnature intheDRC, al- reserves much of thetowninmolten rock.There are wheniterupted in2002,coveringdevastation MtNyiragongonearGomacaused canoes; 5000m mark.TheDRC isalsohometovol- the country’seastern borderapproach the such astheRuwensorirangemountains on zige), Kivu,Tanganyika andMweru,while lakes of Albert(Mobutu), Edward(Rwitan- the RiftValley, openinguptothespectacular the east,DRC’s borders runthelengthof which covers almostonemillionsqkm.To the greater partof theCongoRiver basin, relatives).mans’ closest Thecountryincludes including bonobo (orpygmychimps –hu- forests are hometoallmannerof primates, gui, which flowintotheAtlanticOcean.The rivers such astheCongo,Kasai andOuban- lonelyplanet.com ing to keep control of thecountry to actually have generally toopreoccupied been intry- of war–theDRC’s various administrations government asthey are todowith theravages completion are asmuch todowith incapable dance of buildingsineternal stages of half- a Sunday. lonial neighbourhood, or thecitycentre on as theonce-grand (andnow run-down) co- escape fromthe traditional mayhem,such areasdeserted where exhausted visitors can thereThat said, are anumberof surprisingly lopolis couldn’tbecalledpretty byanyone. ading asstreet thispolluted salesmen, mega- myriad opportunistconmerchants masquer- and infested withshabbyshantytowns and soon change. hope andreintegration thissituationcould multiparty electionsushering inaneweraof from beingatraveller’s haven, with though –isalongway and Cairo) est (after is Africa’sthirdlarg-million inhabitants, confusing, thecity–which, withover six anything but.Huge, sprawling,grimyand chaotic of capital theDRC isregrettably the21st-centuryincarnationofshasa), the Once touted asKinlabelle pop 6.7million KINSHASA Kinshasa’s generalKinshasa’s decrepitude andabun- Built uponthebanksof theCongoRiver KINSHASA ••Orientation

(beautiful Kin- travel agency has extremely helpfulstaff.travel agencyhasextremely in Kinshasa. in Kinshasa. merce) Thebestequippedoftheemergencyhealth centres 24-hour pharmacies;this isthemostcentral. ICARE per hrUS$3)Internetaccess. Cyberlogic Internet access. Cybergd d’Urgences Privé Centre international callsare easytoarrange. stick tothetop-endhotels wherea fee. Best theirmobile phonesfor who willletyouuse waterfront. banks orwithblackmarketeers along the You canchange moneyatoneof Kinshasa’s they’re mint) condition. ingood(oreven francs,butthey’ll onlybeaccepted if golese US dollars are invariablypreferred over Con- cheques andcredit cardsvirtuallyuseless. withtravellers iskinginKinshasa, Cash INFORMATION of Brazzaville. of floatingwater hyacinths andtheskyline Gombé linestheriverbank withgreat views on theotherside. Thediplomaticdistrictof River, lookingdirectly acrossatBrazzaville branches fromthebanksof off theCongo someone topickyouup.Thecitycentre an unmarked (US$10)orarrange taxi for lawless, potholed roads.Optinstead for unsafe onthe anddownright maintained centre, buttheyare overcrowded, badly east of runtothecity thecity.Minibuses N’djili international airportis25kmsouth- ORIENTATION of soukous. nightlife thatpulsates totheuniquerhythms handicrafts, bustlingmarkets andavibrant tree-lined avenues andmore of traditional Think lessof historicmonumentsandbroad of Africanadventure. andatruesense security travelled explorer eyeon armedwithaclose brief iftentative visitbythebrave andwell- couldbewortha it.ButKinshasa develop to the and calls of ‘ If youare prepared towithstand lotsof hassle &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS ofTourism Ministry deFrance Maison Public phonesconsistof street hawkers ( % Central Market ofMatongé Market Central

( %

( 8807608; RwindiBldg, Blvd 30Juin)This % 9903313; Ave perhrUS$3) Mobutu18b,Masina; mondele 12 20520;A11Av Presse, ImmeubleMoanda; (Hal delaGombé)There are several

(Ave Batetela,Gombé) ’ (‘white person’), head ( % 20 875;Ave duCom- forlots of local

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OF CONGO CONGO OF DMCAI REPUBLIC DEMOCRATIC DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO sa’s flagshiphotel wasonceowned byformer sa’s manioc abound in Kinshasa andaremanioc abound inKinshasa yourbest Streetside vendors barbecuedgoatand selling EATING also goodreports onthefood. surroundings relatively There salubrious. are of isgenerally age, safe, thesetting andthe someofthough thefittingsare showing signs nationalairlinecompanySabena,and Belgian US$10. US$7and mainmealsfrom between selling ming pool,internet facilityandarestaurant with aJacuzzi and hotwater. There isaswim- AllroomshereKinshasa. have bathrooms hotel located about 5kmfromthecentre of r US$125; here isanextraUS$5. US$50; a few centralandsecure options. theremodation ishardtocomeby,though are isexpensive,Kinshasa andreal budget accom- SLEEPING Central. tional iconPatrice Lumumba,andtheGare president Kabila, Laurent of thestatue na- to buyinamore relaxed setting. and souvenirs of genuinely finecraftsmanship Gombé) Market). locally knownasMarché duVoleur(Thief’s price tops,andkeep aneyeonyourcash;it’s masks todrums.Pay athirdof theasking fabricsand fromCongolese for everything deValeur Marché colour. Alternatively, thetouristmarket at 564 venues. jazz andrumba can be found atsome though al- options inKinshasa, the entertainment prettyDancing anddrinkingbeer wellcover ENTERTAINMENT sandwich. place offers 10 different varieties of burger/ dishes. Western andCongolese mains US$20; bet forcheap eating. la Republique duTchadNo5;rUS$130; la Republique Pili Burger La Chaumiere Estoril Hotel isthetomb of former Also worthseeing Hotel Memling Memling Hotel Pyramide Hotel RUDKNHS AROUND KINSHASA a hasbeautifulgardenstostrollaround pais ) Academy desBeaux-Arts A cheap central option.Breakfast h

( % 8:30am-11pm) ( % 982 80270;Blvddu30Juin No120a) ( (Pl de la Gare, Blvd30Juin) (Pl delaGare, ( % % ( % 8989 12210;Av No85;r Kabasele 99 33721;Av NgongoLutete; 81-700 6364,1111;Av De ) 81-508 9556;Av NgumaNo35;

This isasmallluxury This place serves Thisplaceserves pa

(Blvd 24Novembre, ) isgreat Kinsha- This This via the rooms. Take your ownfood tobarbecue. Book chalets withattached bucket-and-drain bath- with waterfalls forswimming, andbasic serve two hours tothe is definitely worthavisit. and gentle rivers inwhich toswim,Kisanto 100-year-old trees fromall over theworld, or youcantake thetrain. Withacollectionof drive southof alongtheMatadi Kinshasa road, manioc leaves). of thecountry’sbest palm wineontheriverbank andtrysome down theCongoRiver, drinkintoxicating pirogue forUS$10anhourandbe paddled his ‘authenticity’campaign.You can hire a to honourthecountry’sfishermen aspartof visit. Themarket wasconstructed byMobutu along theroadto shasa airport,iswortha atweekends. worker staff it’s afavourite hauntof resident UNandaid allergic – towhite 4WDsandwalkie-talkies with theyounger chimps. ifyouare Beware and abonoboorphanage, where youcanplay is adecentrestaurant, naturallakes toswimin centre of town,alongtheMatadi road.There de Lukia isthe whileinKinshasa A must-see AROUND KINSHASA per day),youcanhire cars from natively, atmuch rates higher (fromUS$75 cost fromUS$30perdaywithdriver. Alter- Presidentielle Gallerie express’, which toutforbusiness outsidethe you canhire unmarked knownas‘taxi taxis, There but are inKinshasa, taxis noofficial AROUND GETTING first. Rwanda, isvolatile. withyourembassy Check ling overland, particularlyfromUganda or across theCongoRiver (see p558 ). Travel- andBrazzaville Kinshasa (Congo), between cities (see p566 ), andyoucancrossbyferry France () andahuge arrayof African There direct are toKinshasa from flights THERE&AWAY GETTING 0111; Ave Batetela,Gombé; Sat) For anovernight press stay, onanother The The fishmarket at attheIntercontinentalHotel. botanical gardens Ministry of Tourism Ministry , 40minutes fromthe bycarortaxi Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Chutes duZongo Chutes

Kinkole (Blvd 30Juin,Gombé) h liboke of are Kisanto a50km

8am-5pm Mon-Fri, tonoon 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, (Ave Batetela, Gombé) , 32kmoutof Kin- (fishstewed in , anature re- Avis

( % . They Chutes Chutes 81-81 . lonial times as Stanleyville andwasimmor-lonial timesasStanleyville Congo River, wasknowninco- Kisangani A major cityonthemiddlereaches of the KISANGANI (after Yellowstone). and theworld’s nationalpark second-oldest gas, homeof gorillas thefamousmountain town onthewayto Parc NationalDesVirun- up-to-date travel warningsfirst) isasatransit tocheck days(andyouwouldbewise these refugee crisis.Theonereason tovisitGoma canic eruptionandtheongoingRwandan ofcatastrophes the2002MtNyiragongovol- UN aidagencies tryingtodealwiththedual from Rwanda, campfor Goma isnowabase A one-timestopover foroverlanders to and GOMA AROUND DRC lonelyplanet.com Saturday. Monday toFriday and 8.30am tonoon on areBusinesses usuallyopen8.30am to3pm BUSINESS HOURS pre-book aroom)andtake itfromthere. handful of international hotels (where you can in one of off staying and safer the –tostart organisation,or official itisprobablybetter – country andare nottravelling withagroup in theDRC islimited. Ifyouare new tothe For thetimebeing cheap accommodation ACCOMMODATION DIRECTORY DRC local minesare visit. worthafleeting and areasonable networkof dirtroads.The gardens,well-keptthat boastspleasant homes is acompactcityof onemillioninhabitants tached fromtherest of theDRC, Lubumbashi In theheartof thecopperbelt,andlargely de- LUBUMBASHI aUnescoWorldHeritage Site.Reserve, volume waterfall), andthe Okapi Wildlife include BoyomaFalls (theworld’shighest farbetter days.Attractionsintheareaseen colonialbuildings have the decayingBelgian placeandamajorpleasant hubfortravellers, classic novel astheunnamedcityinVStalised Naipul’s A Bendinthe River AROUND DRC ••Goma AROUNDDRC . Onceafairly Washington, DC20036) X8QF) 1040 Etterbeek,) Luanda) Congo USA UK 75008, Paris) France Belgium Angola following countries: DRC hasdiplomaticrepresentation inthe down during2003,butare likely toreopen. Many of the country’s embassieswere closed Embassies&Consulates DRC EMBASSIES &CONSULATES information). further for p1134 precautions and take allthenecessary (see Check withyourGPbefore leaving home your passport. can gatherquickly.Alwayscarryacopyof in acaraccidentdonothangaroundasmobs whereversecurity possible. Ifyouare involved advice of thelocalsinmatters of personal unless you are sure of theroute. Take the twice aboutwalkingaroundinthedaytime to arrest. Takingsecurity. photoscanlead unsanctioned port, which are viewedasplacesof national the river, government buildingsandtheair- Avoid photosinpublic,especiallyof taking DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Malaria remains rife DRC. throughout andthink Do notwalkaroundatnight

  PRACTICALITIES  

( % ( Radio Okapi isthenational station.The Okapi Radio The DemocraticRepublicofCongo’s The DRCuses themetric system. There is220V50Hz. Electricity are two % controlled terrestrial and satellite TV. –state- Nationale Congolaise (RTNC) channelisRadio-Televisionmain TV Congolais newspapers are thedailies grounding pin. circular metal pinsabove alarge circular African/Indian-style plugwithtwo two circularmetalpins; andaSouth plug shapes:aEuropean plugwith ( ( % ( 020-7278 9825;281GraysInnRd,London,WC1 % % 202-234 7690/1;1726MSt,Suite601,NW ( % 81 3052;Ave del’Indépendance, Brazzaville) 01 42 42 25 57 50; 32 Cours Albert 1er, 01 42255750;32CoursAlbert 222-310293; RuaFernando Pessoa, VilaAlice, 02 21 349 80; Rue Marie deBourgogne30 02 2134980;RueMarie and La Reference.

Debout

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OF CONGO CONGO OF DMCAI REPUBLIC DEMOCRATIC DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO rarely accepted here; credit cardsare only Kinshasa. YourbestbetistotravelKinshasa. witha accepted inoneortwoupmarket hotels in US$20 note). or smalldenominations(anything belowa should becareful olddollarbills nottouse often USdollars, you easiertouse though note denominationsnearlyworthlessitis be taken outof thecountry.Withindividual (CDF); it cannot beconverted andcannot The localcurrency franc istheCongolese MONEY Day Christmas Anniversary New Regime Army Day All SaintsDay Independence Day National LiberationDay Labour Day Monday Easter National HeroesDay ofIndependenceDay Martyrs New Year’s Day Public Holidaysare asfollows: HOLIDAYS Zambia USA UK Kenya Germany France Congo Republic African Central Canada Belgium inKinshasa. resentation The followingcountrieshave diplomaticrep- inDRC Embassies &Consulates 566 one’s mobile. be able to borrow some- local callsyou might This isexpensive, butland linesare rare. For nonexistent. system rangesThe postal from unreliable to POST &TELEPHONE around where youare staying). but it’sbetter tofindareliable (ask contact US dollars. carefully concealed moneybeltcontaining Gombé) ( Travellers cheques andcredit cardsare Make calls frominternet centres orhotels. You canchange moneyaroundtheport, ( % % RNPR NDC • etn hr wy There &Away ••Getting INDRC TRANSPORT ( ( ( % ( ( % 98 169100;Ave deRoiBaudouin83,Gombé) % ( % % 81 2255872;310Ave desAviateurs) ( 17November % % 34 028;Blvddu30Juin179,Brazzaville) 37 23641;Ave deLouganda4002) 1May 81 7007213;Ave RépublicduTchad97) 21 802;Ave deL’Ecole54) 895 0310;Ave Pumbu 17,Gombé) 89 24233;Pldu27Octobre) 1November 894 8201;Ave deRoiBaudouin82) 25December March/April (datesvary) March/April 1January 30June 17January 17May ( 24November % 33 571;Ave Pumbu 11, 4January in from Abidjan (Côte d’Ivoire), Bujumbura around three you can also fly times aweek; and AddisAbaba Kinshasa lines flies between about three and EthiopianAir- timesaweek, and Johannesburg Kinshasa flies between necting toMadrid. Paris, withoneof Paris theweekly con- flights and toBrussels three times aweek Kinshasa Bravotimes aweek. AirCongofliesout of usually viaDouala,three to Kinshasa, Brussels Airlinesfliesfrom andSNBrussels a week, viaNairobionceortwice sterdam toKinshasa KLMfliesfromAm- once ortwiceaweek). into (itfliesfromParisKinshasa to Kinshasa Air Franceistheonlyairlinewithdirect flights THERE&AWAY GETTING INDRC TRANSPORT sively asaweaponof war. exten- used the armedforces:rapehasbeen very waryofdrive inaconvoy,ifyoucan.Be traveller. Do not drive aloneafter dark;instead extremeExercise cautionifyouare afemale WOMEN TRAVELLERS short hopacrosstheCongoRiver. to get intheDRC isforCongo(Brazzaville) a from aperson in-countryfirst. Theeasiestvisa which requirevisas aletter of introduction departure. Thisisespeciallytrue forAngolan fromyourhomecountrybeforeAfrican visas If atallpossible,procure youronwardtravel forOnwardTravel Visas within 24hours. land youcanoften get attheborder avisa Ifcrossingbymultiple-entry touristvisa. orUS$135fora60-day, single-entry visa, cost approximately US$75foraone-month, to it isessential beforehand.get avisa These IfflyingintoKinshasa All visitors avisa. need VISAS the UK1912064038;www.undiscovered-destinations.com). the British-based tions, transfers andguides.Anotheroptionis for individualtravellers such ashotel reserva- ofa selection tailored tripsaswellservices operationofferscountry. TheKinshasa-based to nonewhenitcomesarrangingtripsin- Go Congo TOURS From withinAfrica, SouthAfricanAirways ( % 98 368200;www.gocongo.com) Undiscovered Destinations Undiscovered lonelyplanet.com is second is second

( % in invariably abetter bet. schedules aren’t reliable. Entrybyplaneis laam but,duetorailwayunderinvestment, Lubumbashi toJohannesburg orDaresSa- p558). zaville in Congo. page ItcostsUS$25 (see ( h ( youcancontact In Gombé,Kinshasa, Brussels ( include N’djili Airport.Carriers is more viaKigaliinRwanda. easilyaccessed totheeastoffly fromKinshasa DRC, theeast and (Kenya). planesnow Although geria), Luanda(Angola),Libreville (Gabon) (Ni- Lagos (Burundi), Douala(Cameroon), lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright the termsandconditions onoursitefor alongerwayof saying youknow, orresell it.See everyone site,massemailit to only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapter isnotdigitally Tomake overlander avoid atallcosts. Unlessyou’reAngolan visa). atrulyintrepid hassle (make sure youhave pre-arranged your with reams of bureaucracy andawholelotof tempted byforeigners andyoucouldbefaced town of Matadi butcrossinghere israrely at- % % % Technically, youcancatch atrainfrom Most airlineshave atKinshasa’s offices The landborderwithAngolaisopenviathe A regular ferry withBraz- linksKinshasa 8am-3.30pm Mon-Sat) 081-700 5908;6147,Blvd30Juin,Gombé) Ave1221465; HotelMemling, Tchad, Gombé) 081-884 5548; Hotel Memling, Ave081-884 5548;HotelMemling, Tchad,Gombé;

( % TRANSPORT IN DRC •• Getting Around ••Getting INDRC TRANSPORT 081-897 5003;Blvd30Juin,Gombé). and South African Airways South African Kenya Airways Kenya . Air France and SN

along theway. often break downorget stuckonsandbanks forthedeparturetable of barges andthey therethe country.However, isnofixed time- Africaandawonderfulwaytosee of Central Thisisthereal toKisangani. highway shasa by barge alongthe CongoRiver from Kin- about privacythere are possibilities totravel toKindu. connections through but trainshere are sporadicandthere are no FallsBoyoma (Stanley) ontheCongoRiver, andUbunduinorder tobypassthe Kisangani Great railwaylinethatruns between Lakes via Kabalo. There isanisolated branch of the Matadi, LumbumbashitoIleboandKalemie travelthrough agents. all withoffices attheairportoryoucanbook Airlines andLignesAeriennes Congolaises, airlines includeHewa BoraAirways,Congo banned fromoperatinginEurope. Domestic one (Bravo AirCongo)of itsairlinestobe record hasledallbut of airtraffic Congolese around the DRC, thepoorsafety although the best(andoften theonly)wayof getting With only480kmof paved flyingis roads, AROUND GETTING If youhave timeandaren’t enough fussy Train travel to ispossiblefromKinshasa © LonelyPlanetPublications

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