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Lesson 1 ,-__ ..... ------, - Extension Bulletin 498 "' ' ' TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS Revised June 1957 / / / / , ;' ------

A good looking dress is a · well-fitted dress. You can achieve a good fit in every dress you make if you consider three things: 1 ) Know your own figure measurements. 2 ) Select the size and type which most near 1y corresponds to your measure­ ments. 3 ) ~1ake any necessary alterations in the pat­ tern before you your d!'ess. This lesson tells you how to know a good fit, how to take your measurements and has a place for you to record them. What Is a Well-fitted Dress? A dress that fits you well adapts itself to your body. It brings out your good points and skillfully hides your poor ones. You will know a good fit by- Direction of fabric -Grain means the direction of the warp and filling threads in a wise on the cap should lie in the fabric. Crosswise (filling) threads should be same direction as the arm when it is straight at parallel to the floor at the center front and back the side. This varies slightly on different figures. bustline, at the hipline, and at the base of the Direction of lines-Seam lines that sleeve cap, unless the dress has unusual style lie and hang straight keep your dress in right details. shape on your figure. For instance, shoulder Lengthwise (warp) threads should be at right seams should set becomingly and smoothly in a angles to the floor at the center front and back straight line along the top of the shoulder. They of both skirt and blouse of your dress. Length- end where your arm joins your body.

TEACHING • IUIAICH IXTI.NSION EXTENSION SERVICE STATE COLLEGE OF WASHINGTON Pullman, Washington Armhole seams should make a good curve measurements. Do not select a pattern underneath your arm and over the top of your by the size of the ·ready-mades you wear. shoulder. They should be straight in the front They are not sized by the same measure­ and back except when special style features, such ments as patterns.) as extended shoulders, require a slanting line. 3. The dress is carelessly cut or made. Be should into the armhole without accurate in laying the pattern on the fabric puckering. On long sleeves, darts should center arid in pinning, basting, stitching and . at the elbow. pressing. The seam should appear to be The old system of construction was straight around your figure-actually it dips slight­ to cut out a dress, try it on, fit, rip and refit. ly in front, following the natural waist curve. No more! Know your measurements; then buy Underarm waist seams and skirt seams should the size and type of pattern which most nearly hang straight down-with no swinging to the meets these measurements. This means fewer back or front. The seam line that begins at the pattern alterations and a better fitting garment. shoulder neck curve and the one that follows the underarm seam of the blouse to the bottom of the Taking Your Measurements skirt should seem a continuous straight line. Wear a smooth-fitting, light-weight should be even and parallel to the dress or your slip when you have your measure­ floor. Note the current length, but choose the ments taken. Be sure to wear the foundation best length for your figure. garment you will wear with your finished gar­ ment. If you are taking measurements over a Smooth lines-You can expect some folds light-weight dress, be sure to remove the belt. to form in a dress as you move. But when you Have a friend help you take your measurements sit or stand still, there should be no unbecoming so you can maintain normal folds or wrinkles at the bustline, waistline, shoul­ · posture. Watch yourself in der line or across the hips. a full length mirror, if pos­ Amount of ease at the bust, waist and hips sible. Take snug but not depends on design, fabric, texture and how snugly tight measurements. Use a you .like to wear your clothes. · measuring tape that does not The and should fit smoothly stretch. around the base of the neck. Darts should make your garment fit smoothly FIRST, tie a heavy cord without wrinkles. Blouse darts should point to around your waist, snug but the fullest part of your bust. not tight. Then bend slightly to each side. The cord will Wearing comfort-The properly-fitted dress move to the crease at your is comfortable when you stand, sit, or move natural waistline. See where around. It is snug when fashion demands, but each measurement is taken on never feels tight or strained. the figures below. Take You may have fitting difficulties and your yours in the same way and dress may never fit if- record them on the last page: 1. The style is not suited to your figure­ 1. Height ( w i t h o u t simple styles are in good taste and easier shoes) : Back up to a wall, to fit than elaborate styles. stand straight and have a lev­ 2. The pattern is not the right size, or not el measurement taken along altered to fit. (Get a pattern to fit your the top of your head. 5. Blouse back length: Measure from the prominent vertebra at the base of your neck straight down the back to your waistline. This should be where you want your neckline to lie. 6. Blouse front length: Measure from the · high point of your shoulder, close to the base of neck, over the bustline to your waistline. Also measure from the high point on shoulder at the base of the neck to your bustline tip. 7. Arm length: Measure from top of your shoulder at the normal armhole seam over bent elbow to wrist. You may also want the measure­ ment to the elbow. 8. Back shoulder length: Measure 4 inches down your back from the base of your neck. Mark the place with a . Now measure from one armhole seam across the pin to other armhole seam. Hold arms slightly forward as you take this measurement. This allows for ease of shoul­ der movement. 9. Underarm length: Put a ruler flat under your arm as high as it will go while your arm is dropped naturally. Measure from bottom of ruler to your natural waistline. 2. Waist: Pass the tape around your waist 10. Full bust measure: Pass tape around right over the cord. Draw tape as snug as you you, under your arms and over the fullest part of like your garment to fit at the waistline. your bust. Keep tape straight, and just snug 3. Full hip measure: On one side hipline enough to stay in place but still loose enough so measure down 7 inches from your natural waist­ that you can run your fingers underneath it. line. Mark the place with a pin. Repeat measure­ Also measure from one underarm seam across ment on the other hip and also mark with a pin. the fullest part of the bust to the other under­ Pass tape straight around your figure and over arm seam to get the front bust measure. the . This measurement is taken 7 inches 11. Shoulder seam length: Measure from down so it can be compared with the hip measure­ the base of your neck to the socket bone where ment given on your pattern. the arm joins the shoulder. This is your normal You may need a second hip measurement at armhole line. If you put your finger where the the fullest part of your hip. If so, record both socket bone should be, and then raise your arm measurements. up and down, you can easily find the spot. Your back hip measure: Also measure from If your shoulders are narrow in proportion one skirt side seam across the fullest part of to your hips, or if they are narrow in proportion the hip usually more than 7 inches down from to the large muscles in your arm, you may want the waist, to the other side seam. to lengthen the measurement slightly to give a 4. Upper arm: Drop your arm naturally better figure proportion. and measure around the fullest part. This ts 12. Skirt length: Take the skirt measure­ usually in line with the base of the armhole. ments as you stand perfectly straight. Check to be sure your skirt hangs evenly and parallel to 6. Blouse front length the -floor. Then take the length measurement in To bustline tip four places: From the center front waistline to 7. Length of arm the skirt length you want; from each side and 8. Back shoulder width from the center back waistline. Add a al­ 9. Underarm length lowance to each measurement. * 10. Full bust measure You may prefer to take these measurements Front bust measure to the floor and figure the same skirt length, with­ 11. Shoulder seam length out hem depth, from each measurement. 12. Skirt length plus hem Center front If you have these measurements, it is pos­ Left side sible to complete your dress, even including the Right side hem, before putting it on. Center back The four skirt lengths may differ, but don't The measurements are the ones you will be alarmed at that. _Figures are not all perfectly * need to buy your pattern. Later, you will need proportioned. The main thing is to have your all of them for checking the fit of your pattern skirt hang evenly. and garment. Note: You may also wish to divide the waist Just a word about "cheating" on measure­ ( 2) into front and back measurements, as you ments. You fool only yourself. Be accurate and did for the hip ( 3) and the bust ( 10). believe in your . Lesson 2 Record Your Measurements You will learn about pattern types and how * 1. Height (without shoes) important they are if you want to get a pattern *2. Waist that gives you a well-fitted dress and needs only *3. Full hip measure a few alterations. back hip measure This bulletin was adapted by Marjorie S. Lusk, 4. Upper a:m Extension Clothing Specialist, from a bulletin * 5. Blouse back length prepared . by the Clothing specialist of Iowa State College.

Published and distributed in. furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the State College of Washington Extension Service, R. M. Turner, Director, and the U. S. De­ partment of Agriculture, cooperating. 5M657 litho.