WHERE DID THE RADZIWIŁŁ EAGLE ALIGHT? A short guide about the Biržai history Where did the Radziwiłł eagle alight?

A short guide about the Biržai history

2020

When in Biržai, you are welcome to go boat- On the other ing on one of the two lakes – Širvėna or Kiluči- side of the ai. Lake Širvėna, located in the very Old Town lake lies the of Birzai, is the largest and oldest artificial romantic Astravas water pond in Lithuania, formed by damming manor, a the confluence of the two rivers that carved possession the city – the Apaščia and the Agluona. And of Count in another lake, Kilučiai, the agar, a floating Tyszkiewicz. water nut, is believed to have grown, a rare delicacy reserved for the rich, desired to be tasted by every guest of Dukes Radziwiłł. Have you by any chance heard anything about the agar from Lake Kilučiai? On one shore of the Širvėna stands the Biržai Fortress, built by Prince Krzysztof Mikołaj Radziwiłł, nicknamed “Piorun“ (The Thun- derbolt) (Lith.: Kristupas Mikalojus Radvila “Perkūnas“) in the 16th century. It was meant Biržai is a town in northern Lithuania, small to protect not only his Biržai domain but also should be noted that the Duchy of Biržai is Welcome to but majestic with its exceptional natural the northern border of the Grand Duchy of rightly called the largest and longest-lasting beauty, unique natural phenomena and rich Lithuania (GDL), only to be destroyed by the private estate in the history of the Grand history. The founders of the town of Biržai Swedes and later in history rebuilt by as many Duchy of Lithuania. Biržai – a town would rightfully be considered the Radziwiłłs, as three Radziwiłł generations. However, at On the other side of the lake lies the roman- or Radvilos, one of the most illustrious noble the beginning of the 19th century, during the tic Astravas manor, a possession of Counts dynasties of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania in Northern War, the fortress buildings were once founded by Tyszkiewicz, immersed in the greenery of the the 16th – 17th centuries. From the beginning again attacked and blown up by the Swedes. It park, overlooking the town and the fortress. of the 19th century, the town was ruled by was only after almost 300 years that the castle You can reach the Tyszkiewicz manor, built in Dukes Radziwiłł! another powerful family of nobles – Counts and arsenal of the fortress were salvaged from the 19th century, by going along the longest Tyszkiewicz (Lith. Tiškevičiai). decaying. Today, a wooden bridge invites you pedestrian bridge in Lithuania (525 m) via the to enter the fortress once again ... The geographical location of Biržai district is Širvėna. also exceptional: it marks the northernmost The Biržai domain remained in the hands of point of Lithuania – 56º27‚ north latitude – the Radziwiłł dynasty for over 350 years. It anyone willing can find it. While wandering around the environs of Biržai, you‘d rather not say “May you be swal- lowed by the earth!“ because it can actually happen. Our land is famous for karst depres- sions – sinkholes, of which there are thou- Miasto sands here. The largest of them is the Cow‘s Cave. As the legend goes, a couple of centuries ago a cow was swallowed up in this place, and all the owner found was its chain. Let alone the Birze mysterious Kirkilai and Drąseikiai karst lakelets which sometimes get coloured red!

4 5 Jonas Mekas. Astravas manor one can feel the spirit of the New York, 1968. Tyszkiewicz still floating around. Walking (Thephotographs around the town, you will see many buildings are from Jonas dating back to the times of the first Republic and Adolfas of Lithuania, designed by the most famous ar- Mekai Legacy Studies Centre). chitects of that time: Mykolas Songaila, Karo- lis Reisonas, Vytautas Lansbergis-Žemkalnis. The latter is famous for having designed the Biržai gymnasium (school), which produced many notable representatives in the fields of science, culture and arts, making Biržai famous. The future artist – the poet, the pioneer of avant-garde cinema in the USA – Jonas Mekas, was among them. Biržai is the birthplace of quite a few notable individuals, among them two signatories of the Act of Independence of Lithuania – Jokūbas Šernas and Alfonsas Petrulis, and many ministers of the first Republic of Lithuania: the brothers Jonas and Martynas As far back as the time of Dukes Radziwiłł, Yčai, Konstantinas Šakenis, Vytautas Petrulis, studied at Biržai Gymnasium and started The Biržai was known as a multinational, Ernestas Galvanauskas. his career as a basketball coach in Biržai. basketball multicultural and multi-confessional town. Žydrūnas Savickas, the strongest man in the coach Vladas The withdrawal of the front during World National and religious tolerance was used by world, also born in Biržai, started lifting the Garastas. War II left Biržai devastated by fire, with only Dukes Radziwiłł as the basis to successfully first weights and picking up the first victories a few brick buildings remaining. It is hardly establish, develop and govern the Duchy of in his hometown. The winner of the Olympic surprising that during the Soviet era the face Biržai. Even a few centuries later, you can still silver (Beijing 2008) Austra Skujytė, competing of the town was significantly changed – new find religious communities of eight different in both the heptathlon and the decathlon, public buildings and apartment buildings Christian denominations in the Biržai land. also grew up in Biržai. Arūnas Gelažninkas, were erected. Despite the fact that due to known for successfully driving in the Dakar The Biržai Castle is reminiscent of the times its geographical location Biržai was at the Rally, an unparalleded endurance event, of the noble Radziwiłł family, whereas in the epicenter of all the storms of all the wars that overcame the first springboards at the Biržai were being waged, the few surviving relicts of motocross club “Agaras“. It would be great if the old epochs are very powerful. you could find the time and grab the unique Sport occupies a special place in the history opportunity to play a game of outdoor tennis of Biržai. Vladas Garastas – an honorary citi- in Biržai – the first concrete tennis court in zen of Biržai, one of the most titled basketball Lithuania was built in the Astravas manor coaches in Lithuania, who led the legendary owned by Count J. Tyszkiewicz around 1900. basketball team “Žalgiris“ from Kaunas, Unfortunately, this sport did not take root at that time, but in the interwar period, exem- plary outdoor tennis courts were installed in the courtyard of the Biržai Castle. Let alone the victories of the Biržai gliders and the The busts of Martynas and Jonas Yčai. battles on the Tatami won by the fighters of The sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas. an increasingly popular judo sports?..

6 7 as “Birze“, in the times of tsarist In the clearing of Russia “Birži“, in 1915 it was re- named as “Biržai“ and has been the birch grove called Biržai ever since. The Biržai land used to be lies my Biržai inhabited by the two tribes of Balts – the Semigallians (to the North) and the Selians (to the town South), which existed in the 6th- (V. Dagys, the poet from Biržai) 13th centuries. The residential area of the tribes included the Eagle: This is the present lands of northern Lithu- ania and southeastern Latvia. place I have been It was in the lands of Biržai that searching for... the boundaries of the Selian endless forests, with and Semigallian tribes crossed, not a single human and at different times they were being in sight! No pushed to one side or the other. better place to build a nest...

Forests were thriving here many years ago. The birch trees kept Birže swaying from the winds and The earliest recorded mention stretching in search of more of Biržai can be traced to August sunlight. It is said that people 23, 1416. In a letter from the Livonian made a clearing in the birch Master of the German Order to the Order‘s forest and settled in these pla- Procurator, the Nogailiai district of Semigallia ces, giving their home a name. was described, in which the name of Biržai was first The origin of the name Biržai mentioned, referred to as the Biržai plainfield. It was remains unclear. It can only be assumed that the name Biržai is just a place back then ... we‘ll find out about the people derived from the word “biržė“, who will settle down here and the town that will grow in which means the area of forest the vicinity, much later. to be felled or cut down, or from the word “beržų miškai“, the (birch forests) that were flou- rishing here. In the documents up to the 18th century, the name of the town was written

8 9 The Radziwiłł dynasty as the Biržai rulers

Telling the history of Biržai is almost the same as telling the The Biržai-Dubingiai branch of the Radziwiłł family line is story of the Radziwiłł family. They ruled Biržai for so long believed to have been started by Jerzy Radziwiłł (Lith.Jurgis that most of the town‘s history is akin to the history of the Radvila (~1480–1541), the Castelian of Vilnius and Grand Biržai-Dubingiai branch of the Radziwiłł. Hetman of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Contemporaries highlighted his military accomplishments during the battles It was here that the Dukes founded the Duchy of Biržai, built waged with the Muscovites, Prussians and Tatars. As a mem- a defensive castle, defined the rules and a conceptual layout ber of the influential Radziwiłł family, Jerzy worked hard to guide the future growth of the town, established a house both to consolidate the state and secure the predominance of prayer, invited people of different nationalities and faiths of his family among Lithuanian noble houses. He reared to settle here and made the establishment of schools a three offspring: a son Mikołaj Radziwiłł “The Red“ (Lith.Mi- priority. The documents also record how their predecessor kalojus Radvila Rudasis) and two daughters – Anna Elżbieta Radziwiłł Ostik (Lith. Radvila Astikaitis) had put a lot of effort (Ona) and Barbara Radziwiłł (Barbora). It was his children into inhabiting this region. who started a new period in the history of the Biržai-Dubi- ngiai Radziwiłł family. Mikołaj Radziwiłł “The Red“ (~1515– “Radviliana” – the cycle of the portraits of the Radziwiłłs fami- 1548) and the youngest daughter Barbara (~1522–1551), the ly by Juozas Galkus. wife of the King of Poland and the Grand Duke of Lithuania A letter of donation, written on April 14, 1455 by King of Lithua- Sigismund II Augustus, occupy a special place in the history nia-Poland Kazimieras Jogailaitis to Radziwiłł Ostik, Voivode of of the family. Barbara‘s marriage provided the Radziwiłłs a Trakai and Castelian of Vilnius, states that, at Radziwiłł Ostik‘s unique opportunity to establish their influence in the state. request, six individuals from Rokvėnai were to be resettled in the Mikołaj Radziwiłł “the Red“ became the first Duke of the land of Biržai purchased by him near the German border. Mikołaj Biržai-Dubingiai branch, but did not live in Biržai. At that Radziwiłł the Old (Mikalojus Radvila Senasis), the son of Radziwiłł time, Biržai was still far from the main Vilnius-Riga road, and the only wooden castle in the Duchy of Biržai was in Papilys. Ostik, adopted his father‘s first name as the last name, which was to be used in the future by the representatives of this branch, further expanded the lands of Biržai.

10 11 spring has been used for treatment purposes since the 16th century. At the begin- joying hunting in his free time. ning of the 19th century, the One could say that he pursued healing powers of the spring a healthy eating style, although were researched by Theodor it would be more accurate to von Grotthus. The people of say that he enjoyed eating in Biržai wanted a health resort moderation, which apparently to operate in Likėnai, thus this explains a lean figure throu- issue was constantly raised ghout his lifetime ... He loved until in 1937. construction of Duke Mikołaj Radziwiłł “The game (especially moose meat) Anna Kiszka. (Lith.Ona Kiškaitė), Eagle: Can I pos- Eagle: Why do resort buildings was launched, Red“ (Lith.Mikalojus Radvila and fish (especially salmon). His the wife of Krzysztof Radziwiłł sibly find a better they say that fall- and a year later the sanatorium Rudasis) stod out among the character was also quite prai- II, was very fond of visiting Likė- place for a bird of ing into the mud is began its operations. At that other well-off nobles for his seworthy: although the Duke nai steam baths while visiting time, it was written in the press my caliber? Doesn‘t long age, having lived to the age had quite a short temper and OK, but staying in Biržai. They not only helped her that whenever individuals come seem likely... Just of 70! He lived quite healthily was quick to anger, he was as it isn‘t? A mere half improve her health – the water to Likėnai on crutches, after wonder whose coat compared to other nobles: due quick to forgive, willing to reach an hour of a mud of the Smardonė spring is said having taken 10-15 mud baths, of arms am I being to his high position he moved a compromise and had a subtle bath in Likėnai will to have helped the Duchess to they leave fit as a fiddle. At the featured in?.. a lot, traveling around and en- sense of humor. suffice to regain your maintain her beauty and youth. moment, you can take a walk in strength and bring Even later, people did not forget the park in Likėnai, test your en- the miraculous effects of spring back “a wide array durance by swimming in the icy water on health. of colours on your Smardonė stream and taste the feather coat“, as if In Likėnai, located near Biržai, magical water that has treated Radziwilow you were a roller the water of the Smardonė people for centuries. bird. Feels so good!

Thanks to Duke Krzysztof Mikołaj Radziwiłł Swedes also blew up the walls of the castle “The Thunderbolt“, (Lith.Kristupas Radvila built by Krzysztof Mikołaj “The Thunder- Perkūnas) (1547–1603), Biržai became the bolt“. The grandson of Krzysztof Mikołaj center of the Duchy, with a bastion fortress “The Thunderbolt“, Krzysztof Radziwiłł built here to protect the northern border of (Lith.Kristupas II Radvila) (1585–1640), led the Grand Duchy of Lithuania (as well as the the GDL army in the wars with Sweden and Biržai Duchy). On March 9, 1589, the ruler of fought with the Russians near Smolensk. He the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth Sigis- resided in Biržai, probably the longest of all mund III Vasa (Lith.Zigmantas Vaza) granted the Radziwiłłs. In 1637, he initiated a massive Biržai a privilege bestowing Magdeburg redevelopment of the fortress. It was not rights (self-government). only the restoration of the castle, but also its major reconstruction. It‘s most unfortunate that in the 16th cen- tury, during the GDL wars with the Swedes, the town of Biržai burnt to the ground. The

12 13 Janusz Radziwiłł (Lith. Jonušas Radvila) Bogusław Radziwiłł (Lith. Boguslav Radvila) (1612–1655), the son of Krzysztof Radziwiłł (1620–1669), was the last male descendant II, was born in the village of Papiliai and lived of the Biržai-Dubingiai branch. Janusz Radzi- in Biržai Castle for some time as a child. He wiłł‘s cousin, he became the guardian of was one of the most prominent personalities Janusz‘s only daughter Anna Maria Radziwiłł of his era, an outstanding politician and a (Lith. Marija Ona Radvilaitė), and later her soldier, not lagging behind his predecessors, spouse. Anna Maria gave birth to a daughter, also holding the highest position in the state. Ludwika Karolina Radziwiłł (Lith. Ludvika Karolina Radvilaitė) (1667–1695), who was In 1655, Janusz Radziwiłł signed a treaty married to Philip, Duke of Palatinate-Neu- with Sweden with his supporters, nobles iburg, bringing her husband the estates of and boyars in Kėdainiai. This treaty termi- Biržai-Dubingiai Radziwiłł as her dowry. At nated the union with Poland, concluding the the beginning of the 18th century, the Radzi- union with Sweden. Lithuanian nobles were wiłłs of the Nesvizh branch succeeded in cherising hopes that Sweden would better regaining the estates of the Duchy of Biržai. defend their interests and provide support However, they continued to write the history in the war with Russia. By the way, according of the Radziwiłłs of Nesvizh-Olyka. Even to the Treaty of Kėdainiai, a Swedish garrison though the name of the Radziwiłł ceases to made entry to the Biržai Fortress, which exist in the history of the daughter of Ludwi- was the only peaceful entry in the history of ka Karolina, the last Duchess of Biržai-Du- Biržai. Due to this Treaty, Janusz Radziwiłł bingiai, many noble families of Europe can received controversial assessments, but the boast the blue blood of the Radziwiłł of the deal with the Swedes saved the country from Biržai-Dubingiai Dukes. the Russian invasion at that particular time.

Eagle: You can of the legends of Biržai, as no magic: someone allegedly saw dive into its depths to find agar. and the fruit is adorned with four one had either seen or tasted it it, someone allegedly ate it, yet Who knows now whether they tiny horns. Blooms in June-July. chop off my toenails for a long time. another person is said to have were truly fishing nuts from the Grows in non-calcareous, warm of my right claw if talked to it, the fourth is believed lake? After all, not a single guest and muddy lakes.Agar gives The legend has left its mark this strange thing to have chased it, the fifth to have could have seen or relished one a feeling of fullness. In the on the history of Biržai. Even is not a nut... and shot at it, the sixth is rumoured agar, so how on earth could they 19th century, it grew naturally now, the company “Agaras“ they even claim that to have been jailed for it ... The have known what the host was in Kilučiai and Vepriai lakes and is operating here, in the past it has a heavenly legend goes that whenever abbout to serve them ... So what was artificially cultivated in the residents and guests were taste... noble guests came to visit Dukes is that agar? Širvėna lake near Biržai. Today, most welcome to visit the Radziwiłł or stopped to spend agar is believed to be completely Would you love to taste an agar restaurant “Agaro žiedas“ (Agar Floating agar or water nut, the night, the Dukes immediately extinct in our country. nut from Lake Kilučiai? Agar, or in blossom), although nobody Trapa natans (Latin), a species gave orders to their servants to a floating water nut, is believed really knows what agar in full of plants of agar genus - this is treat the guests to the best beer to have once been growing in the blossom looks like. Agar is how Carl Nilsson Linnæus first and several pounds of agar nut! lake and producing rich harvest even more mysterious than the described it. The upper part of And the servants would run to of fruit. It ultimately became one blooming fern flower with all its the plant has four thicker stems, Lake Kilučiai at full gallop and

14 15 the townships of the Duchy, Eagle: How vast even their layout. J. Narūna- are the lands of my vičius-Naronskis was not only Majesty the Duke, the geometer of the Radziwill and how beauti- manor, but also the auditor, so ful they are from a he had the opportunity to use bird‘s eye view - the material of the manor inven- the whole Duchy tory for the map. He reduced seems to be resting the drawings of the individual on the palm of your areas in size while keeping the proportions the same and hand ... Just wonder showed them on the map. He how could anybody did not have the opportunity to be that smart as to rise into the air and capture the draw it on a piece of image from above, so he used parchment without other means, measuring with rising to the sky?.. a rope and triangulation. That notwithstanding, he succeeded The Radziwill dukes not only in the dukes‘ manors, to draw in transferring the image on expanded the estates, but also a map of the Duchy of Biržai. the parchment very precisely wanted to know and see how The 740x590 mm map is turned and in detail. Above all, one can The Duchy of Biržai much and what belonged to at an angle of 120 degrees, so marvel at the talent of the artist them. Thus, in 1645, Janusz we see Samogitia in the north, – what a beautiful font and how Radziwiłł commissioned the and Curonia and Žiemgala in impressive map illustrations! As a possession of the Radziwiłłs, Biržai was Mikołaj Radziwiłł “The Red“ was the first to cartographer Juozas Narūna- the south and east. On the already mentioned in the 15th century. The settle Tatars (in Niutanai, Lotkov and Aspar- vičius-Naronskis, who worked map you can see exactly all Radziwiłł dynasty worked hard to expand iškiai) and Germans in Biržai lands. During the domain, which had been passed down the battles led by Krzysztof Radziwiłł “The from generation to generation, by acquiring Thunderbolt“, a separate Tartar-Cossack flag more land. In 1547, Mikołaj Radziwiłł, nick- of the Duchy of Biržai would be raised during named “The Red“, (Lith. Mikalojus Radvila the battles. In the 16th century, empty lands Krzysztof Radziwiłł II focused on creating other places of the Duchy of Biržai. Rudasis) was awarded the title of Duke by were donated by the Duke to boyars for their the administrative structure of the Duchy of The Duchy of Biržai was the only larger integrat- Emperor Charles V of the Holy Roman Em- military service. Biržai, which had already been formed. ed complex of Biržai-Dubingiai Radvila estates, pire in Augsburg, which was confirmed by Upon the death of Krzysztof Radziwiłł “The In 1640, after the death of Krzysztof Radzi- equal in size to the lands of the most famous Sigismund Augustus in 1549, whereupon the Thunderbolt“, the lands of the Radziwiłł fam- wiłł II, the Duchy of Biržai was inherited by Polish and Lithuanian nobles of that time. Biržai estate became a duchy. ily in Northern Lithuania – Biržai, Nemunėlis his son Janusz Radziwiłł (Lith.Jonušas Rad- Brick and iron smelting furnaces were built The territorial expansion of the Biržai estate Radviliškis, Papilys, Astravas, Salamiestis, vila). He allocated a lot of land to the Tatars in the Duchy for the construction of the began with Jerzy Radziwiłł (Lith.Jurgis Ageniškis, Parovėja, Naradava and Saločiai – in return for their military service to protect fortress, a large glass manufactory operated Radvila), son of Radziwill the Old (Lith.Radvila were inherited by his son Krzysztof Radziwiłł the Biržai Castle. The Tatars served in the in the Biržai forest, a gunpowder production Senasis), when he started buying land from II (Lith.Kristupas Radvila II). This was the ex- cavalry under the flag of the Duchy of Biržai workshop (mill) was installed to meet the the Upytė boyars. At the beginning of the 16th act composition of the Duchy of Biržai, which or in hussar regiments. needs of the castle defense. Furthermore, century, the land of Biržai already had about remained unchanged until the second half of The Germans, boyars and townspeople of the Dukes of Biržai were entertained by the 503 boyar farmsteads (Lith. dūmas). the 17th century. According to the Duke him- Curonia and Livonia moved not only to the zoo operating in the vicinity. It also pro- self, Biržai “was a good and useful estate“. town of Biržai itself. They also settled in duced meat to the luxury table of the Dukes.

16 17 In the mid 17th century, when the Duchy of Biržai, which was finally formed, it Let us count consisted of 5 estates, with 1 town and 4 townships in them: what made up 1 Biržai (600 valakai of land, the town of Biržai, a manor and a commune (Pol. the Duchy of gmina, Lith. valsčius) 60 villages and folwarks (Lith. Palivarkų), a large forest). Biržai 2 Papilys (more than 400 valakai of land, 40 villages and palivarkai, a forest). 3 Nemunėlio Radviliškis (about 250 val- 5 akai of land, 33 villages and palivarkai). Biržai estate as the center 4 Salamiestis (224 valakai of land, of the Duchy a township, valsčius, a large forest – about 119 valakai). The Biržai estate was the strategic, religious 5 Saločiai (about 150 valakai of land). 4 and representative center of the Duchy of Biržai, uniting other estates around it. The inhabited territory of the Duchy of Biržai covered an arrea of approximately 36 thou- sand ha, excluding part of forest massifs, water bodies and empty land. 1 In the 17th c., 8 workshops were functioning in Biržai: those of merchants; tailors; shoe- makers; locksmiths and blacksmiths; a joint workshop of brewers, bakers, homebrew makers and animal slaughterers; carpenters‘ workshop; a joint workshop of bricklayers, carpenters, wheelwrights; weavers and spinners.

2 The fortress had an arsenal (Germ.czekhaus, 3 Lat. armamentarium); its staff consisted of local government officials (Lith.urėdninkai) and craftsmen. The former were responsible for the functioning of the arsenal and its inventory (officers, cannon shooters, gun- powder supervisor), the latter operated and repaired armaments and other ammunition (gunsmiths, gunpowder makers, smiths, blacksmiths (armourers), wheelwrights, carpenters, drummers).

18 19 The rights of Magdeburg, or the free town, be held twice: the first during the Feast of Biržai held on awarded to Biržai in 1589, were due primari- Rome according to the new calendar, that is, ly to Krzysztof Radziwiłł “The Thunderbolt“, it should start during the Feast of John the who completed the construction of the cas- Baptist, and should last for 14 days, and the an equal footing tle. This privilege gave the citizens the right second during the feast (February 2) ...”. The to govern their own town. At the same time, residents of Biržai were allowed to trade in with Vilnius, the the most important symbols of the city were markets and fairs without paying any duties approved: the coat of arms, the flag and the and taxes. seal. The coat of arms is a black Radziwill The town of Biržai was inseparable from capital of the eagle surrounded by a laurel wreath against the castle, so the townspeople had certain the background of a white flag: “... for this obligations to the castle, the most impor- town of Biržai and the Townsmen of that Grand Duchy of tant of which was military service. It was town for the present and future times, for obligatory for the townspeople to defend all the eternity to come, we have bestowed the town hall, to have a cannon shooter Lithuania the Coat of Arms with a black eagle against in the town and supply him with gunpow- a white flag, granting that town of Biržai der and projectiles, to participate in the all the rights and freedoms as the most fortification of the city, first of all by building The oven tile with the initials important cities of our Crown (Kingdom) of Krzysztof Radziwiłł and strengthening a rampart around the and Vilnius, the city of the Grand Duchy of “The Thunderbolt”. city, to defend the castle during war and Lithuania have...“ fire, less often to guard the castle in peace The highest official of the town government, times. The townspeople guarded the castle the vaitas, was appointed by the ruler of the in the absence of the garrison in it. When the country or the owner of the town, in the case city was attacked by an enemy and there of Biržai – the Radziwiłł family. Apart from was no garrison to protect the castle, the the vaitas, the most important self-govern- townspeople were obliged to gather in the ing institutions were: the city council, called castle and defend the honor of the Radzi- a magistrate, consisting of burgomasters will. The town dwellers were also obliged to (master of the town, Lith. burmistras) and guard the town at night, to protect it from councilors (Lith. tarėjas), and the court of lay unexpected fires and unforeseen events as judges (Lith. suolininkų teismas .) Actually, well as to participate in the construction we have to be grateful to these judges for and restoration of the castle. The obligation having convinced the ruler to grant the to fulfill military service was supervised by privilege of turning from the original road the magistrate. This duty had to be fulfilled Vilnius – Riga, one of the most important not only by all the townspeople, but also by routes in those days, and making a detour every man who resided in the town. During through Biržai, which meant that everyone the rule of Janusz, Bogusław and Ludvika traveling through Biržai had to contribute to Karolina Radziwiłł, the townspeople had to the town budget. provide themselves with handguns (mus- kets), bullets and gunpowder. A privilege was also granted to Biržai to hold the days of the town market and annual fairs: “... we decide on forever having a weekly regular market in that town of Biržai would be held on Sunday and the second on Thursday. And the annual fairs are to

20 21 Eagle: After all, The Radziwiłł eagle was returned to the Biržai coat of arms of it‘s in this coat of during the years of Soviet occu- arms that I look pation, only the shield of the coat my best and feel of arms this time was painted a my best. Although... bright red color of the USSR flag. something is amiss here, something The coat of arms returned to Biržai in its gernuine form only seems to be truly in 1996, when the Lithuanian missing... The first coat of arms of Biržai. Heraldry Commission approved 1589 the stylized version of the coat of Together with the title of the merely one wing and one claw arms created by the Biržai artist Secret archive of dukes, the Radziwills received holding a horseshoe – the symbol Egils Skuja. The current coat of the coat of arms of the family – of the noble Kiszka family (Lith. arms of the town features the a black eagle with a shield on his Kiška) (the wife of Krzysztof main details of the first authentic the town of Biržai chest, and on the shield, the coat Radziwiłł II, the mother of Janusz coat of arms of Biržai: a white flag of arms of their predecessors Radziwiłl, was Anna Kiszka, Lith. on a yellow shield, a black eagle The old archives of Biržai, reminiscent of Ostiks was portrayed: three rota- Ona Kiškaitė). against te background of the flag, the Radziwiłł era, the granting of self-gov- ting hunting horns. The Radziwiłł with the shield surrounded by a ernment to the town of Biržai, even the For some obscure reason, prba- eagle also landed on the first green wreath of laurel leaves. But times past its heyday, after the town lost bly because it was the coat of The coat of arms of Biržai. 1792 coat of arms of Biržai – right on something is still missing ... its self-government rights following the arms approved by the last ruler the fluttering white flag within third division of the Polish-Lithuanian of the Grand Duchy of Lithua- The eagle is not as majestic, as if it a yellow shield enclosed by a Commonwealth in 1795, were vigilantly nia, this was the coat of arms were not the Radziwiłł eagle any- laurel wreath, a symbol of fame, guarded and passed down from gener- that the Biržai people chose as more ... It is quite disappointing ation to generation. During the times of honor and victory. The coat of the symbol of their town when that one important attribute is no the First Republic of Lithuania, Professor arms of Biržai was the only ha- Lithuania regained independen- longer visible on the eagle‘s chest Jonas Yčas, a historian writing the history ving a wreath in the whole Grand ce in 1918 after years of tsarist – the symbol of the three hunting of Biržai, only by some miracle managed to Duchy of Lithuania. take a glimpse at several documents of that Russian occupation. horns, which had also been the archive and make sure that it had survived However, in 1792, the last ruler the symbol of the Radziwill prede- intact and was still in good hands. Jonas of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania cessors, the Ostiks (Lith.Astikai)... Yčas wrote: “I, the ordinary professor of must have confused something The current coat of arms of Lithuanian history, Jonas Yčas (...) was in my – when bestowing the privilege Biržai. mother-in-law M. Neumanienė‘s apartment, of self-government on the town located at the corner of Aptiekos square of Biržai, he confirmed the same and Reformatai street: with the mediation custodians again and it was only in the last coat of arms that had previously of P. Klybas, the mayor of Biržai, I met there decades of the 20th century that they were been approved by him for Kėdai- Henrikas Stefanavičius, a representative of handed over to museums for safekeeping. niai, another town of the Radzi- Biržai townspeople, who said he had been Currently, most of the archive is kept in the a long-term custodian of that archive and Lithuanian National Museum, the other part wiłłs . The saddest thing about it belonged to a commission of eleven other of the archives is stored in the stock of the is that the eagle, the main symbol elected members of the townspeople.” The Biržai Region Museum “Sėla“ (stamps and of the Radziwiłł Duchy and the professor returned the documents to the some documents are on display). town of Biržai, was reduced to

22 23 Tomasz Makowski. The pagan God Thunder (Lith.Per- copper engraving from the 17th century. kūnas). This is what the old man told the builders: A fosa – a protective, – You have defiled the old faith defensive moat of your ancestors, you keep fighting over the new God, surrounding the territory you are angry with each other. of a castle or other Can‘t you see? Lithuania is defensive fortification. fading away, the castle under construction is even disintegra- A bastion is a defensive ting on its own ... But since you structure in the form of construction of a castle in Bir- want my advice, listen... Wait a pointed protrusion in žai, people dug deep and wide for the full moon, then stop the corner of the fortress canals, built high and steep em- the first couple of newlyweds wall. bankments, and built masonry returning from the church and Biržai castle with thick walls. Whenever bring them to the collapsing Biržai Castle is the residence of the Radziwiłł construction was about to be corner of the castle palace. Dukes, the center of the Duchy of Biržai, The first castle Eagle: I feel so completed, the same corner of Only the good will of genuinely built in the end of the 16th century for desolate every time I the palace would collapse for happy individuals can save a defensive purposes, repeatedly attacked Duke Krzysztof Mikołaj Radziwiłł “The Thun- fly over the glorious no obvious reason. The corner crumbling castle like this... and plundered by enemies, therefore it had derbolt“ built a modern, the largest and was restored several times, Biržai that I have This is exactly what happened to be rebuilt several times. Originally, it was strongest Italian-type bastion castle in Lith- but it would collapse again, as to rest here, on the ... they stopped a happy couple built as a fortification of the Italian type uania at that time for the protection of the if a spell had been cast over it. (1575–1589), but in 1625, having suffered Biržai lands and the northern border of Lith- corner of the castle of newlyweds who had no time Superstitious people were filled from the enemy attack, it was rebuilt for uania. Construction work began in 1575 with palace... It breaks to rejoice in their happiness. with dread just looking at it. the second time (1637–1704) following the the installation of a dam at the confluence of my heart to see the The newlyweds were brought Some said it was heavenly pu- model of the Dutch fortifications. By that the Apaščia and Agluona rivers. The base of walls of the mighty to the castle and told that only nishment for the fight between time, the construction of defensive castles the fortress consisted of four large bastions, their benevolent sacrifice could castle palace falling, the Catholics and Evangelicals. had significantly advanced. which were surrounded by and connected save the crumbling palace. with earthen ramparts and a moat. Each but on this corner I How come brothers cannot find Currently, the Biržai Castle complex (13.36 ha) Upon hearing this, the young of the four bastions had a defensive tower. feel safe. My resting peace and unity when the ene- consists of a restored palace, a restored groom agreed to be immu- Six brick casemate buildings (fortified gun place has been the mies sharpen their swords aro- arsenal, three gunpowder magazines, the emplacement or armored structures) were red within the corner of the ruins of a gate building, a bridge and double same for so many und? The old people would sigh designed to shoot at the attacking enemy. castle palace for the sake of his defensive earthen ramparts with fosa. The years, it‘s inde- reprovably: in the old, when our The main entrance was guarded by a gate homeland, and his young wife Biržai Region Museum “Sėla” and the Biržai structible. parents were nurturing the old building, on which a wooden bridge rested. chose to share her husband‘s District Municipality Jurgis Bielinis Public faith, the castles never collap- You might have heard the le- fate ... Wars and storms raged, Library (in one of the palace avant-corps (It. The pivotal building is the three-storey sed on their own... gend of the Biržai Castle, which the castle fell into ruin several risalita)) are located in the buildings (in the representative palace of Krzysztof Mikołaj palace and the arsenal) of the complex. To- Radziwiłł. In front of the palace stands the is spread by word of mouth, Totally exhausted, the castle times, and yet the corner of day, the buildings of the complex house the Evangelical Reformed Church, the arsenal from generation to generation builders decided to seek advice the palace – a symbol of love Biržai Region Museum “Sėla” and the Biržai and food warehouses, barracks and other and will be told as long as the from a hermit who, in the old and loyalty to the homeland – District Municipality Jurgis Bielinis Public buildings. The fortress and the city formed a castle stands in Biržai. It is said customs of his parents, still stood intact, withstanding all Library (in one of the palace avant-corps. single defensive complex. that when Radziwiłł ordered the worshiped theh Lithuanian hardships.

24 25 The second castle military architect Gregor Pirk, to be contin- ued by Teofil Crell-Spinowski. During the In the 17th century, The Grand Duke of reconstruction of the castle, new double Lithuania and King of Poland Sigismund III ramparts were formed, the gate building Vasa and later on his descendants would not was only partially rebuilt in the yard, and a renounce their claims to the Swedish throne. temporary arsenal was reconstructed from They dragged the Polish-Lithuanian Com- the old stables, whereas other buildings monwealth into the war with Sweden, which were built anew. lasted many decades (1600–1635 and 1655–1660). In 1625, the Biržai castle suf- Janusz Radziwiłł invited the famous military fered extensive damage from the Swedish architect A. Freitag to Biržai for the con- army. struction of the castle. The second castle was much larger, its design included four In 1637, on the initiative of Duke Krzysztof bastions, defensive curtain walls connecting Radziwiłł II, major reconstruction of the cas- those bastions and a ravelin , a triangular tle began. Following the death of Krzysztof fortification or detached outwork, located Radziwiłł II, his son Janusz Radziwiłł contin- in front of the innerworks of a fortress The model of Biržai castle. ued the work. It was not only the restoration covering the bridge. The ramparts generally The author is Valdas of the castle, but also its reconstruction, by consisted of large earthworks, covered with Rakutis. changing the type of fortification – instead turf, with a ditch in front of it. The buildings of the Italian, the Dutch model of fortifica- for defense purposes included an arsenal, tion was used. The reconstruction design stables, 4 barracks and barracks (there were of the castle was prepared by an engineer, 4 two-storey barracks, accommodating 500

soldiers), where the castle crew lived. In the Radziwiłł bequeathed all his property to his center of the courtyard was a troop forma- daughter Ludwika Karolina Radziwiłł (Liudvi- tion (or alarm) square, from which paths led ka Karolina Radvilaitė). In 1671, Ludwika to all the bastions, gates, and main build- Karolina renewed the construction of the ings. The facade of the gate building was fortress, the works lasted until 1682. decorated with the coats of arms of the towns In 1701, during the Northern War (1700–1721), belonging to the Radziwills carved in the Peter I, Tsar of Russia. and Augustus II, Ruler sandstone. The representative palace was a of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, late Renaissance-Early Baroque building with concluded a treaty against Sweden in Biržai two 3-storey “avant-corps“ (It. rizalita) and a Castle. In August of the same year, the 2-storey arcade. Swedes occupied Biržai and it was only in In the autumn of 1655, after the union with 1703 that the castle and the town of Biržai Sweden initiated by Janusz Radziwiłł, a were regained by Grzegorz Antoni Ogiński Swedish crew was brought to the Biržai and the Russian soldiers. fortress. In 1659, the castle was taken over In 1704, the army led by the Swedish general by Duke Bogusław Radziwiłł, the cousin of A. L. Levenhaupt, having outwitted the castle Janusz Radziwiłł. Although living in Karaliau- crew after a month-long siege, recaptured the čiai, he took good care of the reconstruction fortress. When forced to retreat, the Swedes of the Biržai Fortress, which due to the wars blew up the buildings of the fortress. remained uninished. In his will, Bogusław

26 27 Arsenal (Germ. czekhaus, the royal arsenals. Thus, every (Ona Marija) was greeted upon displayed today at the Swedish esteemed guest was escorted entering Biržai. So was Peter Army Museum in Stockholm, zeughaus) – the Heart of the by the Dukes not only to the the Great, Tsar of Russia, who the other is exhibited at the Castle palace and the church, but by arrived at Biržai Castle to sign a Polish Army Museum in Warsaw, all means to the arsenal as well. treaty with the ruler of our co- and how many more of them Judging by the abundance of untry August II, and was greeted are still resting at the bottom of cannons, the Biržai arsenal amidst the thunder of cannons. the Baltic Sea?.. was even equal to that of the Cannons were also fired in Kraków city. The cannons and rendering a salute at funerals of weapons kept in the arsenal the most distinguished officers were of good quality, most of for their merits. It is regrettable them were made in the Nether- that the impressive cannons, lands, Germany, Denmark. It decorated with the coats of is no secret that the Radziwiłłs arms of the Radziwiłł Dukes, were interested in military left the Biržai Castle as war innovations and were the first in trophies. One of them is proudly the GDL to use muskets.

It should be noted that the Eagle: As Casimirus arsenal inventory was not used Siemienowicz (Lith. merely for warfare. The thunder Kazimieras Semeno- of the castle cannons also vičius), a great ex- marked the Radziwiłł festivities pert in the art of and the arrival of the most warfare, said in the honorable guests to the castle. middle of the 17th In a similar fashion, Bogusław century, “Let better Radziwiłł‘s, wife Anna Maria rockets serve tempt- ress Venus than blood-thirsty Mars... Salve to his Majesty the Duke!“...

The arsenal holds an excep- tional place in the fortress. Furthermore, the fact that this particular fortress arsenal be- longed to the Radziwiłłs, Dukes of Biržai, makes it even more ex- ceptional – it was by no means inferior in prestige and value to

28 29 There is only one God, but there can be multiple ways to know Him

Even as far back as the 16th century, Biržai tions in Biržai. Religious tolerance is the Catholic Church was a multinational and multicultural city legacy of the Radziwiłłs, Dukes of Biržai. where Karaites, Jews, Germans, Latvians Although they instilled the Evangelical Currently, the largest religious community and Tatars mingled together. Therefore, it is Reformed faith in their lands (by building in Biržai is that of Catholics. The first church hardly surprising that in the town of Biržai churches and establishing schools next was built at the start of the 16th century. and in the whole Duchy, each ethnic group to them), they also realized that the more However, the activities of the Catholic parish prayed in its own house of worship. The diverse the society, the greater its potential depended on Dukes Radziwiłł who, after spirit of religious diversity and tolerance contribution to the economic growth of the converting to the Protestant faith, liquidated for each other was prevailing in the town. Duchy and the town. The Radziwiłłs also the parish (late 16th century) and demol- From a religious perspective, Biržai is still understood the importance of providing the ished the church. For more than a hundred one of the most colorful towns in Lithuania. opportunity for the representatives of each years, the dominant religion in Biržai was Although there are no more Jewish, Karaite ethnic group to realize their best potential. Calvinism. Duchess Ludwika Karolina Radzi- or Tatar religious communities in the town Religious tolerance was inseparable from wiłł, who for the second time married the and district of Biržai, even today there are ethnic tolerance. catholic husband, the Duke of Neuburg, and as many as eight Christian religious denom- consequently started embracing Catholi- inations in the district, and as many as five cism in the Duchy of Biržai, in 1692 commit- houses of worship for different denomina- ting funds for the construction of Catholic Church. True, the church was wooden, with- out a sacristy. A few decades later, two more Catholic churches were built in the Duchy – in Salamiestis and Nemunėlis Radviliškis. In Catholics have their houses of worship in all the late 18th – mid 19th century, the wooden centers of the former Duchy of Biržai (Biržai, St. Jerome‘s Church in Biržai was replaced Nemunėlis Radviliškis, Papilys, Salamiestis, by St. Ann‘s church, also wooden. When the Saločiai). latter church started crumbling, concerns were raised about the construction of a new church. After the foundation of Count Jan Tyszkiewicz, a new brick church was erected in Biržai, designed by architect Tomas Tišeckis. In 1879, it was consecrated with the title of St. John the Baptist. Although the dominant religion in the Duchy of Biržai during the reign of Dukes Radziwiłł was that of the Evangelical Reformers, Counter-Refor- mation also exerted its authority, and today

30 31 Evangelical Reformed Biržai, established by Mikołaj Radziwiłł “The movement were the Biržai-Dubingiai branch Red“, was the largest in the Grand Duchy of the Radziwill Dukes, and although they Church of Lithuania, and has remained the largest chose the Calvinist branch of the Reformation, In the16th century, Dukes Radziwiłł brought parish of Evangelical Reformers to this day. other Reformation movements were also Calvinism to the land of Biržai (currently The Biržai-Dubingiai branch of the Radziwiłł tolerated by them. Thus, the Evangelical the religious confession of the Evangelical Dukes remained faithful to the Evangelical Lutheran community in Biržai consisted of Reformers), one of the branches of the Reformed faith until the end of its existence. newcomers – Latvians and Germans. About mid 17th century, Evangelical Lutheran Reformation. Dukes Radziwiłł, the dissem- The only place in the former estates of the Parish in Biržai was one of the largest in inators of the Evangelical confession, were Duchy of Biržai where the Reformation did Lithuania. preoccupied not only with the construction not take root was Saločiai, a territorially sep- of churches in the Duchy of Biržai, building arate estate of the Duchy, in which there is The last Lutheran church was built in the churches in Biržai, Nemunėlis Radviliškis, no Evangelical Reformed Church today. And 19th century in the city center, near the mar- Papilis and Salamiestis, but also with the es- although the Counter-Reformation move- ket square (currently Dagilio St., the square tablishment of parish schools. The parish of ment significantly changed the religious near J. Janonis Square), during World War map of Lithuania, Evangelical Reformed II, as the front was retreating through Biržai, communities and houses of worship have the church was severely damaged by war survived in Biržai, Nemunėlis Radviliškis, Evangelical Lutheran and fire, and in Soviet times it was demol- Papilis and Salamiestis to this day. Church ished. The Evangelical Lutheran community was granted shelter for prayer in the Biržai The Evangelical Reformed Church, which Having emerged in the 16th century, the Evangelical Reformed Church, and after had repeatedly suffered damage in Biržai, Reformation movement did not bypass the Lithuania regained its independence, the was rebuilt several times. In the 19th Duchy of Lithuania and the Duchy of Biržai. community established its house of worship century, Count Tyszkiewicz donated 2,000 Martin Luther‘s idea that salvation does not on Kilučių Street. rubles for the construction of a new church, depend on the sacraments or performance commissioning a competent architect of rites, but on the sincerity of the human Heinrich Schell to design it. The church was religious belief, found its followers. Among consecrated in 1874. the greatest patrons of the Reformation

32 33 Orthodox and Old Believers community in Lebeniškiai, and rites are very rare in the church. in Biržai region In the village of Kvedariškis, right on the bor- The Orthodox parish In Biržai was founded der with Rokiškis district, a community of in 1864, and a year later St. Church of Nicho- Old Believers has survived. Its predecessors las was built. Count Tyszkiewicz allocated a settled here in the second half of the 17th plot of land and money for its construction. century or early 18th century, when, during The Orthodox Parish in Biržai was among the church reform in Russia, confessors of the smallest in Lithuania. Today, the city no the old faith were forced to renounce it and The Orthodox longer has an Orthodox community, and the were persecuted. Eventually they fled to the Church. former church building is used by another outskirts of the country or deep into Europe. religious group. In the village of Kvedariškis, the commu- Another church was built in Lebeniškiai nity of the Old Believers has significantly village, the dwellers of which, after the declined in number. The house of worship uprising of 1863, were deported to Siberia still stands here, but the rites no longer take and in which the tsarist government settled place in it and there is no local clergyman Russian families instead. At present, only leading the church. Methodist Church a few individuals belong to the Orthodox Methodists consider the Bible to be the most The Orthodox Church of St. Martyr important source of faith. The first Lithuanian Nicander in Lebeniškiai. Methodist community in Biržai was founded by priest O. Kaufman in 1923. It did not have Pentecostal Church its own permanent house of worship. The activities which had ceased during World The Pentecostal fellowship in Biržai was War II were resumed only in 1997. The Meth- established in the end of the 19th centu- odists settled in Stoties Street. ry. Pentecostalism is an evangelical faith recognizing adult baptism and emphasising direct personal experience of God through baptism with the Holy Spirit. It also pro- claims salvation for all those who believe in Seventh-day-Adventist the Gospel. Since its inception, the commu- community nity had changed its name and the location The individuals professing this Christian of the house of worship several times, until faith, like the Jews, regard Saturday the sev- in 1989 the Pentecostals were handed over enth day of the week as tthe Sabbath day, by Biržai City Municipality a redundant Or- rejecting several doctrines that other Chris- thodox Church in 12 Kęstučio str. For many tians uphold – the immortality of the soul years, the church was led by its founder and the eternal suffering of sinners in hell. Petras Viederis. A group of Seventh-day-Adventists gathered in Biržai in 1935, but it was scarce and even ceased to exist. Today, believers gather for prayer in either the Methodist Church or the priest’s homestead.

34 35 Oriental ethnoses:Jews There is scanty information about the reli- Eagle: For what- As time passed by, the gious life of the Tatars in the Duchy of Biržai. fortress was gradually falling ever reason, it does and Tatars It is believed that the mosque, or rather a into decay and ruin. One not feel good any The Jewish community in the Duchy of Biržai private room for prayer, may have been built dynasty which ruled Biržai longer to land on was established at the end of the 16th centu- in the 16th–17th centuries in Panemunė was replaced by another: in ry, during the reign of Duke Krzysztof Mikołaj folwark (Lith. palivarkas). In the past, a small the other side of the 1811, Biržai, which had been Radziwiłł “The Thunderbolt“ (Kristupas Rad- Muslim burial place was situated near the lake, I like it much under the ownership of the vila Perkūnas). In the 17th century it grew in house of prayer. The Tartars in the Duchy of more to rest here, Radziwills, passed into the Biržai lived communally in six settlements. hands of Counts Tyszkiewicz. numbers. In the 17th c., Krzysztof II Radziwiłł gives me pleasure... took the initiative to settle the Jews of the There were no mosques in the neighboring They are said to have paid town in one place and allowed them to build estates. The religious tolerance of the Radzi- 450,000 silver rubles for a synagogue. Prior to World War II, Biržai wills and a open-minded treatment of the Biržai. The Tyszkiewicz fam- had the Great Brick Synagogue, two wooden Islamic ethnic minority by the Christian de- ily established its residence Kloyzn, one for shoemakers, and the other nominations did not prevent the latter from on the other side of Širvėna for the Shammash (synagogue beadles) and having a place to profess their faith. Today, lake – in Astravas manor. a wooden Chabad Hasid Synagogue, which only the names of place names (Aspariškiai, was later rebuilt into a large brick synagogue. Totorkalnis) remind us of the former Tatar On August 8, 1941, the town of Biržai lost its community. Jewish community, which was annihilated by the Nazis, and the surviving house of wor- ship was deprived of the privilege to exercise Counts its direct functions. Tyszkiewicz Biržai Great Wooden Syna- gogue (beit midraš) and the acquire Biržai Great Brick Synagogue in Karaimų Street. 1926. In the 19th c., Counts Tyszkiewicz became the richest landowners in Lithuania. Their land holdings included Palanga, Kretinga, Užutrakis, Lentvaris, Raudondvaris near Kaunas and other lands. As a family sign, the Tyszkiewicz used the so-called Leliwa coat of arms (Lith. Leliva) – a yellow crescent and a six-pointed star over a yellow crescent moon on a blue shield. The Tyszkiewicz acquired the Biržai land holdings at the beginning of the19th century. Official documents state that the Biržai es- tates were bought by Colonel Michał Tyszk- iewicz (Lith. Mykolas Tiškevičius) (1761– 1839) from the Radziwills. He is considered to be the first official owner of the Biržai estate, although it is believed that Biržai One of the Astravas manor land holding could have been bought for buildings.

36 37 had a lot of Parisian gloves, hats, hats, sticks, Egypt, he was approached by the Louvre loved to wear kerchiefs, ties, scarves. He even Museum in Paris, interested in his collection. had tiny silver comb to comb his moustache. Count Tyszkiewicz donated a part of his valua- ble collection to the Louvre. Upon the tragic death of Jan Tyszkiewicz in the second half of the 19th century, the Astavas After starting an affair with a cabaret dancer manor was inherited by his brother Józef‘s Juliette Beaux in Paris, he divorced his wife eldest son Michał Tyszkiewicz (Lith. Mykolas Maria. As the years went by, he seemed to Tiškevičius) (1828–1897). Michał Tyszkiewicz care less and less about his manor in Biržai. was a tall (almost 2 m in height), imposing aris- Receiving a large income from the Biržai tocrat who married Duchess Maria Radziwiłł entail, M. Tyszkiewicz lived his life freely and (Marija Radvilaitė). M. Tyszkiewicz became became increasingly involved in collecting famous in Europe as a collector of antiquities antiques. He had acquired antique rarities. and an amateur Egyptologist. He took an inter- Michał Tyszkiewicz died in 1897 in Rome. His est in archeology early on: not yet 30, he was collection of antiques was sold at an auction the money of Jozef Ignace Tyszkiewicz (Lith. During the Napoleon‘s invasion of Russia already an Honorary member of the in Paris, and individual masterpieces were Juozapas Ignotas Tiškevičius) (1724–1815), 1812, Michał Tyszkiewicz supported Napoleon. St. Petersburg Society of Imperial Archeology. split between different locations, mostly one of the richest people in Lithuania at that Using his own funds, he began formation of In 1861 he traveled to Egypt, where he carried European and American museums. Prior to time. Apparently, due to his respectable old the 17th uhlan regiment consisting of Lithua- out archaeological excavations. The Count his death, he bequeathed the entail to his age, the elderly Count no longer wanted to nians. in Biržai, in the hope of reestablishing added Egyptian antiquities to his collection son Joseph (1850–1905). manage the property documents in his own the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Upon his of antiquities, which he bought or received name, passing over the ownership title to death, Biržai were inherited by his youngest as gifts. When M. Tyszkiewicz returned from his son and his wife Joanna. Jozef Ignace son Jonas, who is considered to be the most Tyszkiewicz is considered to be the pioneer colourful personality, having left the biggest of the Biržai Tyszkiewicz branch. mark in the history of Biržai. Jan Tyszkiewicz Jonas (Lith. Tiškevičius) (1802–1862) was a well-educated nobleman, speaking Russian, French and German, well Eagle: And what (1814–1873) lived for several versed in geometry, mathematics and history. years in Astravas manor, where might our Honorable Being just 18, he was elected a candidate for he wrote the first monograph Count have written the Masonic lodge. It was J. Tyszkiewicz who on the history of Biržai region took all the trouble of securing the approval here? He seems to “Biržai: An aperçu of the history from the Tsar of Russia to legalise Biržai as an have slept at his desk of the city, its castle, and majo- entail in 1862. An entail (Fr. majorat) meant in the library... wait, rat” (“Biržai. A glimpse into the an indivisible family estate, which was inher- could it be in Polish? ited as an integral unit by the most senior past of the town, the castle and member of the family. J. Tyszkiewicz not How can a a simple the majorat”). The book was only perfectly maintained and nurtured the eagle read it? published in Polish in 1869 in Biržai estate, but also built the current Biržai St. Petersburg. It took many ye- Catholic Church and the Astravas manor The pioneer of Lithuanian ars for the book to be translated released. The book presents house at his own expense. museology, a scientist, archa- into Lithuanian. Finally, in 1998, the history of Biržai, gives a de- Jan Tyszkiewicz was also famous for being eologist, collector, founder the Lithuanian version, trans- tailed description of the library a dandy. The Count had his attire made in of the Museum of Antiquities, lated by Algimantas Baublys, in Biržai Astravas manor, rich St. Petersburg or London, or and purchased Count Eustachy Tyszkiewicz the then director of the Biržai manuscripts, archeological and clothes in Vilnius, Riga and St. Petersburg. He (Lith.Eustachijus Tiškevičius) Region Museum “Sėla“, was ethnographic collections.

38 39 Józef Tyszkiewicz (Lith.Juoza- Lviv Cathedral (now Ukraine) to wicz became grief-stricken, fell pas Tiškevičius) inherited the be wed. After the marriage, the ill and passed away in 1901. His Biržai entail when he was only spouses lived in Paris in great wife Clementina remarried a 22. The burden was much too luxury for several years. After Frenchman and settled in Paris. heavy for is shoulders, so he Jan Leon took over the Biržai The Biržai entail was inherited relinquished the estate in favor estate, the spouses moved their by Alfred Tyszkiewicz (Lith.Alf- of his younger brother Jan Leon residence to Vilnius. redas Tiškevičius) (1882–1930), Tyszkiewicz (Lith. Jonas Leo- the only son of the Counts. He At that time, Biržai entail con- nas). Thus, in 1880, Count Jan was the fifth and last owner of sisted of 43 small folwarks (Lith. Leon Tyszkiewicz (1851–1901) Biržai entail from the lineage of palivarks), their rent brought became the fourth owner of the Counts Tiškevičiai. the largest income. However, Biržai entail. His mother Maria due to the crisis J. L. Tyszkie- Alfred Tyszkiewicz was born in Radziwiłł-Tyszkiewicz (Lith.Ma- wicz‘ income fell significantly, Astravas manor, could speak rija Radvilaitė-Tiškevičienė) did leaving him indebted to the some Lithuanian, but spoke her best to find the right bride state. only its dialect. At the beginning for her son. In 1878, Jan Tyszkie- of the 20th century, he worked wicz and Klementyna Potocka Looking for new ways to make at the Russian Ministry of were already seated in a hor- money, in 1899 the Count Foreign Affairs and the Russian se-drawn coach, on their way to started to build a large match Embassy in London. In 1919, factory on the bank of the authorized by the Lithuanian Nemunėlis, in the village of government, he went to Rome Šleideriškis. It is said that after to negotiate with the Pope on Russian engineers declared the Lithuanian-Vatican relations. buildings unfit to be used for In 1920, A. Tyszkiewicz was production, Jan Leon Tyszkie- appointed Lithuania‘s diploma- tic representative in London. Astravas manor “He was one of our most talented diplomats,“ wrote Martynas Yčas, a member of the Astravas is part of the town of Biržai, located system was installed in the park, with swans Lithuanian government. on the other side of Lake Širvėna, from gliding majestically over the water. In the In 1922, the Law on Land which a beautiful view of Biržai opens in homestead of Astravas there was a stable Reform was adopted, pursu- front of you. Count Jan Leon Tyszkiewicz with a manege, made of red bricks and ant to which the manors of A. chose Astravas as his permanent residence. broken stone. At the entrance to the palace In 1841–1842, he started to build a brick there still stands a small guard‘s hut, other- The first telephones in the Bir- Tyszkiewicz were expropriated manor house there, which has survived to wise known as a dog handler‘s hut, and an by the state. He was left with žai environs were introduced in this day. It is one of the most beautiful resi- arch bridge over the canal is built next to it. 1898–1899. The first telephone only the manor of Astravas and dences of the Romantic period in Lithuania. The territory of the manor was surrounded line connected Count Jan Leon about 165 hectares of land. The by a fence, there were observation towers in On the peninsula situated on the northern impoverished Count sold his the corners, and two gates, wide across the Tyszkiewicz‘s Astravas manor shore of Lake Širvėna, a landscaped park real estate and moved to Paris. bridge, and smaller, leading to the farm- and the village of Mūrmuiža in of a mixed design, overgrown with various He died in 1930 in France. and buildings (Lith. kumetynas) and manor Latvia. trees and shrubs, was planned. A pond barns.

40 41 The representative palace in 1840 was In addition to the park and the palace, designed by Tomas Tišeckis, construction Astravas boasts an original architectural was supervised by Cezare Lorenzo Anichini. engineering structure, a dam-bridge, built in Materials for the construction of the palace 1860, considered one of the most beautiful were brought from St. Petersburg and Riga. technical, cultural and historical monu- ments in Lithuania.

Eagle: It should be St. Petersburg. Documents have The interior of the Astravas Pa- survived showing that for the scary for an ill-in- lace was famous for its works of transportation of lions by sledge tentioned person to fine and applied art. Regretta- from St. Petersburg to Biržai in bly, scanty information about walk through these 185, the Count paid the carrier them has survived. Art treasu- doors when they 79 rubles. and 10 copecks and 3 res (such as the painting of the are guarded by such rubles of bonuses. The authentic Crucifixion of Jesus by Peter sentries... lions are currently guarding the Paul Rubens) have spread from gate to the Kaunas Vytautas the Great War Museum (donated the Astravas manor around the world and are now housed in In the 19th century Russia, it was by Count Jan Jerzy Tyszkiewicz famous museums and private considered fashionable to de- (Lith. Jonas Jurgis Tiškevičius) collections. corate the facades of the palace in 1938), and the facade of the with lion statues symbolizing Astrava Palace is decorated with power and might. J. Tyszkiewicz their decorative copies. tried to follow suit by ordering cast iron statues of lions in

42 43 The White Pharmacy is the oldest building in Biržai, and only the surviving authentic walls of the Biržai Castle could compete with it. The Radziwill town hall stood in close proximity.

The house of the pharmacist Apolinaras Marcinkevičius, built in 1913.

Biržai in the 19th–beginning of the 20th cent. At the beginning of the 20th century, the Behind the Agluona River, after crossing the press was painting the following picture of bridge, the Tiškevičiai Avenue, as dusty as the town: “Biržai is a relatively small town – all Biržai, ran from the town to its outskirts. summer here is the most dust-ridden season, The street was built-in only at the beginning: and in autumn you are literally stuck in on one side stands the Orthodox Church unwadable mud. And yet the town is adorned and on both sides are the buildings of Biržai with impressive masonry buildings. In the Manor. In the place of the current buildings 19th century, Catholic, Evangelical Reformed, of “Aušra“ School and “Saulė“ Gymnasium, Evangelical Lutheran brick churches, an fields of crops were swaying, and in the Orthodox church and Astravas Palace were direction of Parovėja, the town boundary Eagle: What kind The biggest commotion in Biržai for a pig, and all the above-men- erected in the town of Biržai. The town is marker was a mill standing behind the was during the fairs, when the tioned fancy goods could be of marketplace is also embelished with many other handsome bridge over the Apaščia. people came to the town from found in A. Marcinkevičius house buildings, notably the industrialist T. Janson‘s this? And where do In the town, life was concentrated around the surrounding environs. And of (now 5 Vytauto str), where palace, the houses of pharmacist A. Mar- so many people come the Market Square (Turgaus aikštė), the horse-driven carts aplenty! ... Ch.Ginzburg‘s stores of Curonian cinkevičius and merchant A. Paslaveckis and Church Square (Bažnyčios aikštė) and the from? The place is Most wore home-made clothes, drapery and fashion clothing a brick hospital. Most of the houses, however, Pharmacy Square (Aptiekos aikštė). All the so loud, you can hear factory made clothing was a and medicine stores welcomed are wooden. The bridges across the Apaščia squares were close to each other: Market people chattering here and Agluona are also wooden”. In 1907, the rarity. However, in the Market you, and the stores operating Square, is currently J. Janonis Square, newspaper “Nedėldienio skaitymai“ wrote in Lithuanian, over Square one could find scarves, in B. Paslaveckis‘ house of Church Square was next to St. John the that the main streets were paved with stone, galoshes, hats, medicines, fab- (now 7 J. Janonis sq.) offered Baptist Church, and Pharmacy Square is cur- there in Latvian... and in one of the main streets – Dirvonas rics and other goods to one‘s lik- the residents of Biržai and the rently Bielinio Street, next to the so-called (now Vytautas) – “there were outdoor lighting ing. More accurately, some were newcomers a wide range of White Pharmacy). fixtures built in rows in the middle”. looking for a goose, the others haberdashery.

44 45 Biržai during the period of the first Republic of Lithuania

In 1918, Biržai town-dwellers, who had been exposed to cultural deprivation for quite some time, founded the art society “Mūza“, the aim of which was to educate their members and those around them by organizing literary evenings and acting. Plans were made to start a choir, organ- ize lectures and engage in many other cultural activities. Kostas Kregždė, a teacher at Astravas Primary School, became the first director of the “Mūza“ Theater. A few years later, the well-known director Borisas Dauguvietis took over staging performances at the “Mūza“ and training would-be actors, until he was invited to work at the Kaunas State Theater.

Dalia and Beatrisa – the char- The house of Teodoras Janso- acters of P. Vaičiūnas’ drama nas, built in 1903. “Nuodėmingas angelas”. On The opening group of Biržai Art the left is V. Kulbytė who played Society Theatre “Mūza”, 1921. Dalia. 1930 In 1908, a four-grade school was established In 1912, a printing house was established in in the house of the industrialist Teodoras Biržai, which employed 10–15 people. With Jansonas (currently 23 Vytauto str.), which the advent of the printed word, it was no later evolved into a gymnasium. Both boys longer necessary for a man to walk with a and girls studied there. The tuition fee drum and break the news to the townspeo- was small, the instruction was in Russian. ple aloud. Foreign language learning was to be paid for separately. Povilas Jakubėnas, a Lithuanian Calvinist clergyman, general superintendent of the Lithuanian branch of the Reformed Church and an active public figure, started teaching in Lithuanian without receiving any remuneration. During the Lithuanian press ban (1864–1904), Lithuanian books were distributed by many enlightened people of the country, the most famous of whom was Jurgis Bielinis, called the father of book smugglers (Lith. knygnešys).

46 47 The “Mūza“ Society flourished as a forester and taught B. Dau- when Borisas Dauguvietis guvietis how to brew a beer. (1885–1949) arrived in Biržai – Brewing traditions in Biržai an extraordinary personality, a date back to the time of Dukes hearty and boisterous charac- Radziwill. In 1704, the Swedes ter, witty and ingenious, a per- marching towards Biržai knew son of high stature, wearing an that when they knocked on the earring in the left ear. He grew door of the locals, they had up in Biržai region, near the better know how to say in the Nemunėlis river. Not all actors local language: “Hello, do you could put up with his hot tem- have a beer?” – and would be per, but the performances were given a hearty welcome. In the a great success. In the years 19th century, the Radziwill bre- to come, B. Dauguvietis would Eagle: Is it really wery was taken over by Counts gain fame for his immortal co- worth wearing such Tyszkiewicz, to be reacquired medy “Žaldokynė“, in which the knick-knackery, me at a later time by the last ma- tradition of brewing, typical of being a self-respect- nager of Astravas manor Petras the people of Biržai, is revived, ... grew, new houses and public buildings were ing eagle?.. Variakojis. and the reality of the Soviet built. Reinforced concrete bridges were built At the same time, in 1922, the first private across the Apaščia and Agluona rivers, and regime is cautiously ridiculed. power station owned by AB “Agluona“ start- many city streets were paved. Žaldokas, the main character of ed operating. the play, had his own prototype On February 16, 1928, Biržai intellectuals and In 1924, after competing with Pasvalys, – Jurgis Žaldokas, who worked broad-minded individuals joyfully welcomed Biržai became the district center. The town the Decade of Independence: with the support of the Biržai county governor Vladas Rozmanas, a museum was opened in Biržai. In 1922, a section of the narrow-gauge Minister of Trade and Industry, as well as the railway from Pasvalys to Biržai was built. Minister of Transport. The train was called This project was largely possible thanks to “kukuška“ (cuckoo), which gave the Biržai the efforts of Martynas Yčas, born and raised dwellers a lot of joy, but at the same time in the district of Biržai. He served as the it caused worry. The carriages were cold in winter and filled with smoke coming from the wood burning stove. The trip was slow and long, jokes were even made that any elderly woman preferred to ride a bicycle, loaded with cans full of milk, because she did not have time to enjoy the ride on the “kukuška“. Today, Biržai railway station remembers not only the joyful chatter of the “kukuška“ passengers but also the pain and emotional distress of the Biržai deportees, forcibly expelled from the Homeland and transported to a bleak and inhospitable terrain of Siberia

48 49 There was no solemn space in Biržai to commemorate state and national holidays, so on September 13, 1931, the monument to those who died for the independence of Lithuania was unveiled and consecrated (author Robertas Antinis). The place chosen for the monument was quite reputable – the Church Square (currently Independence Square), with its facade overlooking Vytauto Street. In 1946, the monument was blown up and buried in the very place it had been standing on. In the years of national revival, in 1988, the ruins of the monument were excavated, but it was impossible to restore the monument from them, so the sculptor‘s son Robertas Antinis Jr. cast a copy of the monument. The Biržai dwellers gently call the monument Birutė, but not everyone has accepted it as a worthy replacement, so the ruins of the original sculpture are also exhibited nearby.

In 1928, the Riflemen‘s (Lith. šauliai) Theater On June 28, 1931, a monument to Duke opened in Biržai, with a number of perfor- Janusz Radziwiłł was unveiled in front of mances staged, thus contributing to the the ruins of the Biržai Castle Palace. The cultural life of the Biržai residents, and the monumental sculpture was made by the “Odeon“ Cinema was opened. sculptor Juozas Zikaras. Many distin- guished guests attended the unveiling In 1930, the flax-tow yarn spinning factory of the monument, Minister of Education “Siūlas“ started operating in Astravas, in the Konstantinas Šakenis, prof. Jonas Yčas, former stables of the manor. In the summer of Martynas Yčas among them. Taking part 1939, the factory was employing 300 workers. in the ceremony were also 4 exemplary Linen is still being processed, UAB “Siūlas“ is units of the First Hussar Regiment, named one of the companies representing Biržai. after Grand Hetman of Lithuania Janusz The castle site, called the Radziwiłł mound, Radziwiłł, with the Regiment Commander was a popular place during the interwar pe- Colonel Pranas Jackevičius. riod – firefighters organized festivities here, people played tennis, a summer theater was staging perormances, dances were held, apple trees were blossoming and impressive rose trees were stretching toward the sun.

50 51 Eagle: And how from ice and snow. Regrettably, snow and ice are removed in does the press cover a peculiar way. Sidewalks are the glorious town watered with salt solution, of the Radziwiłłs as it should be. Only that salt today? .. Vow, it solution is usually not mixed by looks like changes street cleaners themselves – are about to come to herring brine is used instead. I Biržai. have seen several heads of her- ring spilled on the street with Extract from the weekly “Biržai together with brine. As a result, žinios“, February 26, 1928: “The the streets turn wet and smelly. town of Biržai is steadily pur- If the sidewalks are watered suing its “modernization”. Si- while the snow is melting, they dewalks are diligently scraped should be swept and cleaned. For whatever reason, this is not done here.”

Biržai Gymansium, built in 1931. Designed by Vytautas Lands- bergis-Žemkalnis.

The improving economic situation kalnis (1893–1993). Construction took place meant that Biržai did not lag behind in 1930–1931. Among the students of Biržai other cities, commissioning the Gymnasium were the following: Vladas most famous architects of that time Garastas, Jonas Mekas, Vytautas Brėdikis, to create artwork for them. Not only Bernardas Brazdžionis, Alma Karosaitė, New Biržai County Board modern public buildings have emerged Antanas Kučas, Kazimieras Vasiliauskas, and House. in the town, but its residents also many others who left their mark in literature, started chasing fashion, building their art, sports and religious life. own houses. Walking around Biržai, you can see more As you walk around today‘s Biržai, you modern buildings: Biržai Town Hall (10 Ro- will easily recognize the buildings of mod- tušės str.), the construction of which started ern architecture of that time (you can find in 1923, municipal administration building out more in the booklet “Interwar Biržai on (38 Vytauto st.), built in 1931. the way to Modernity“; Lith. “Modernėjan- In the summer of 1944, as the World War II tys tarpukario Biržai“). front was retreating, only the ruins of Biržai Biržai Gymnasium was one of the most remained, more than half of the city was modern and expensive Lithuanian destroyed and burned. gymnasium schools of that time. It was designed by Vytautas Landsbergis-Žem-

52 53 Biržai in Soviet times was used not only for film viewing – dances, concerts and other events were held here. During the Soviet era, in the currently In the aftermath of World War II, the town central part of the town, multi-storey had to be rebuilt. Three collective farms – apartment buildings were built. In a fully “Tarybinis artojas“ (“The Soviet Plough- equiped square, as the locals say, in front of man“), “Raudonoji vėliava“ (“The Red Flag“) the Church of St. John the Baptist, a water and “Pabiržė“ – circa 1954 were preparing fountain was running just for one day, and for future construction by opening a new a plaque of honor dedicated to the forerun- brickyard. Asphalt was poured and spread ners of socialist work was placed. on the streets of Biržai, apartment buildings were being erected in the town center, new In 1976, the architect Vytautas Brėdikis and factories and institutions were being built. sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas, both com- ing from Biržai, put the monument dedicat- In 1954, a public catering establishment was ed to the poet J. Janonis, who had attended built on the corner of Vytauto – J. Janonio the Biržai four-grade school established in Eagle: We have streets: there was a dining room on the the same T. Janson‘s house, on a high ped- shown you what ground floor and a restaurant on the first estal. Restoration of the Biržai Castle was Biržai looked like in floor. This building Biržai is still being called launched. The first parts to be restored were the past, and what a restaurant. the gunpowder house, the bridge, to be they look like today, The restaurant. 1972. Today, there is a supermarket between the followed by the palace itself, where in 1988. Jurgis Bielinis Library was established, and how the town grew restaurant and the former house of industri- and was beautified alist T. Janson, but around the year 1964, the in 1989, the relocated Biržai Region Museum cinema “Širvėna“ was built there. It was here “Sėla“ opened its doors. during the 30 years that the main hall of the town was located. It of the independant Republic of Lithu- The cinema “Širvėna”. ania, you can see with your own eyes. And who knows what it will be like in 50 years, who knows? Feel free to take a brush and draw a picture of today‘s Biržai, or maybe the Biržai in 50 years‘time?..

54 55 This book is based on the articles and monographs by historians and local researchers on Biržai history.

C o m p i l e r : Dovilė Bekerienė T e x t : Edita Lansbergienė, Dovilė Bekerienė E d i t o r : Edita Lansbergienė

I l l u s t r a t o r : Justinas Jažauskas

Photography: Biržų krašto muziejus “Sėla“ (archyvuose saugo- mos ir muziejaus eksponatų nuotraukos), Jono ir Adolfo Mekų palikimo studijų centro (Biržų rajono savivaldybės Jurgio Bielinio viešoji biblioteka) archyvo, fotografai Tomas Bekeris, Remigijus Timukas

D e s i g n : Amalkera / Asta Radvenskienė

Panevėžys 2020 BIRŽŲ MIESTO SAVIVALDYBĖ