Taiwan Traditional Oolong 傳 統 Nowadays An Interview with Master Lu (呂禮臻), 烏 President of the Association for the 龍 Promotion of Chinese Art

茶 茶人: Zhang Yun Ying (張芸瑛) 的 Translated by Lucas Ledbetter 歲 月 In January of 2015, we introduced you to Master Lu Li Zhen, who is one of ’s wisest and most important tea mas- 時 ters. We recommend that you re-read that article so that you will have a context for just how relevant his commentary is, 光 as he has literally affected every one one of us and our tea appreciation. He’s made tea history, in other words.

ver the years, Taiwanese tea The varietal, region and pro- insufficient sunshine, there are often has been deeply impacted duction method of a type of tea all problems with the fresh leaves during O by society and history. At result in variations, and all influence withering. There isn’t enough mois- the beginning of 1971, vigorous tea the flavor of a tea. But the environ- ture removed and the tea’s raw flavor exports were diverted down more del- ment is the most important of the is often over-pronounced. Some tea icate domestic trade routes. Following three. Take Muzha , for merchants attribute these raw flavors the elevation of the fragrance and fla- example: its environmental charac- to the alpine air, and pass such mis- vor of oolong, tea gained the affection teristics are a northerly latitude and information on to the consumer, but of more and more people. The num- an elevation of about 350 meters. this is misleading. ber of people drinking tea gradually Since it receives long periods of sun- From all this, we can see that there increased, but at that time, Dong Ding shine, the and tannin content is a difference between the actual oolong tea, also known as “traditional of the freshly-picked leaves is quite effects of the environment and pro- oolong tea,” received the most atten- high. The tea has a heavy quality on cessing of tea and the consumers’ tion in Taiwan. Traditional oolong tea the tongue, and the bitterness and knowledge of it, which wasn’t there in led the way to the highest domestic astringency are strong. However, gao the past, and that the produced peak in Taiwanese tea’s history. shan tea’s (high-mountain oolong) traditionally and nowadays themselves growing environment is greater than form the fault line between the two. 1000 meters above sea level. Atop Properties Derived from the mist-shrouded peaks, it often gets the Environment foggy in the afternoon. The duration Processing: The of sunshine is short, and the caffeine Missing Link A plant should be in accord with content of the fresh leaves is therefore the environment in which it grows, low. The leaves are juicier, highly aro- What we normally call “traditional as that determines the substances and matic, and the pectin content is high. oolong tea” refers to tea that is heavily subtle elements contained within the The tea’s bitterness is slight when oxidized during processing, for exam- tree and also leaves. Just as “terroir” brewed, and it has a pleasant sweet- ple, Muzha Tieguanyin or Dong Ding is stressed in red wine, so should the ness as well. The mountain environ- oolong teas. In earlier times, Dong climate, soil, weather, etc., determine ment gives the tea nourishment for Ding oolong tea was highly oxidized how to create a balanced tea. Fine tea growth, but is also its Achilles’ heel and roasted and is in relative contrast is always made in harmony. when it comes to processing. Due to to the “flavor” of presentgao shan tea.

73 In 1971, the traditional oolong quite a few times and the roasting I think the key to high-quality tea produced by tea farms underwent period was fairly long. In the end, that tea lies in letting the nature of tea withering in the sunshine for oxida- tempered the varietal and environ- “reveal itself.” This doesn’t just refer tion. A preliminary roasting, shak- ment’s “aggressive” flavor, transform- to the degree of oxidation we’ve been ing, and other processes made the ing its shortcoming into its specialty. discussing, but to every phase of the tea highly oxidized; during rolling, it High-mountain oolong tea cur- production process. Traditionally, was pressed in cloth by hand or foot. rently undergoes light oxidation, oolong masters tried to avoid creating The tea took on a ball shape and was and most of the stages of processing tea with raw flavors. If you let oolong called “balled oolong.” In withering are done by machine. What’s more, reveal its potential, it won’t have a this tea, masters would wait until the some people believe that small farm- or fresh-off-the-tree flavor, raw tea flavor had left the tea leaves, ers using traditional production tech- and as such, it will be more conducive and then perform the next step. The niques should be phased out and that to tea craftsmanship—in the process- process was adjusted in accordance large-scale mechanical tea production ing, roast and even brewing skills. with Nature, echoing changes in rain- methods should be adopted instead, Asides from letting the tea “reveal fall, temperature, humidity, etc. for example, factory-farm cooperation itself,” there is another key point, These complicated but reliable (small farmers don’t have to set up fac- which is the tea’s dryness. The mois- production skills lowered the mois- tories; they just provide maocha and ture content must be less than 5%. ture in the tea leaves to an appropriate the processing is done by large facto- When the tea liquor has a fresh- degree. Not only was the aroma stabi- ries). This method not only can save ly-picked, raw green flavor, that indi- lized in the process, but the mouth- on wages, but can mass-produce tea, cates that the tea leaves have a high feel, flavor and heartiness (body) were which is advantageous to the devel- moisture content, and the tea will be also greatly increased. Moreover, such opment of the tea industry, market, bitter when drunk (the surface of the teas were suitable to be drunk right and economy. However, when tea tongue will have a slight astringent away or stored for later. leaves are machine-processed, they do feeling), and it will not be suitable Let’s look at another example: Due not acquire natural flavors. Manufac- for aging. Processing an oolong the to the growing conditions and charac- tured tea is only mediocre and lacks way it wants to be processed, reveal- teristics of traditional Muzha Tieguan- any special characteristics. It cannot ing its true potential, and making sure yin, it is intrinsically rather bitter. be adapted to the varietal, climate or it is adequately dry will make a fine Thus, tea farms used a relatively high environment and lacks craftsmanship oolong that is pleasant to drink and degree of oxidation, the tea was rolled and character. worth aging for some years as well.

74 Taiwan Oolong Roasting Preserves the Aroma

The main reason that nowadays mouth, the sweetness instantly floods hand, has a very different attitude tea mostly undergoes light oxidation your whole mouth. There is a slight, towards tea. and is not thoroughly dried is that pleasant bitterness in the sweetness. This topic can’t be covered in so at present, the “aroma” of the tea Different levels and flavors dance few words. Based on my years of expe- is emphasized. There are crude teas upon the tongue in tingling sensa- rience, many people like Taiwanese and raw teas that have a very appar- tions, melting the body and mind. tea after coming into contact with it. ent aroma when smelled. One could Only vintage tea can offer such an I believe that with the right attitude, describe this type of fragrance as experience. It is like the qualities of Taiwanese tea can achieve another “charming.” the tea are fulfilled by the aging. And peak, maybe even higher than the pre- Then how to stabilize the aroma? that is an experience which light, raw vious one. Tea that hasn’t been sufficiently oxi- tea with only a pleasant fragrance can’t dized can be roasted directly after ever compete with. drying. The tea’s fragrance will change with the high roasting temperature and will be preserved layer by layer. Industry: Things Are No This changes the “evenness” in the Longer As They Were original aroma into “heartiness.” In other words, it reduces the shortcom- To date, along with changes in ings of the tea, decreases the acerbity, technology and the environment, peo- and increases its supple smoothness. ple’s demand for tea has also changed. Tea that has not been roasted can be The market has been influenced by likened to a gorgeous woman who is these changes. For example, because uncultured, left alone on an island: modern people drink tea with increas- she is beautiful, but not as beautiful as ingly light flavors, lightly oxidized she could be. Similarly, fine tea from a teas have gradually gained popularity, fine source and location is great, but it as have the newer cultivars, like Jing won’t reach its full potential as oolong shuan or Four Seasons Spring. without the roast. In addition, tea information is Thus, when a tea farmer roasts a basically controlled by tea merchants. tea over a long period, the aroma is When consumers don’t have access to transformed from an obvious, charm- objective information that can help ing flavor into a mellow and complex them develop discernment, it’s very poem, deeper and more profound. easy to feel that a certain tea suits you, Take Li Shan spring tea as an exam- and to then grow a preference for it— ple (like our Tea of the Month): it has after a while, you become accustomed a clear floral fragrance as raw tea, but to this type of flavor. (Magazines like after roasting, it is transformed and this can obviously help!) reveals a mellow floral and fruity fra- There are also many challenges in grance, which smells gentle and pleas- the sales of Taiwanese teas, such as ant. The tea then seems to cling to the that Taiwanese teas have a low profit mouth, adhering everywhere and lin- margin. Sometimes, without any gering on. This takes the experience to mark-up, even after twenty years, a an even higher level. tea is still sold at a comparable or even I think the true quality one experi- lower price as it was back then. These ences when drinking tea is more holis- issues are not guided by a reasonable tic than just a pleasant aroma. In the system, resulting in a chaotic market past, we often talked about a tea’s abil- and tea farmers who can’t earn a live- ity to “rhyme (cha yun, 茶韻).” In the lihood. old days, tea was produced “in con- Taiwanese tea’s specialty lies in its cordance with the Heavens,” and it high quality. If quantity is demanded, was good for aging as well as drinking. how do we preserve and maintain that I have some Taiwanese oolong tea quality? Traditional craftsmanship here from the year 1916. The depths pushed Taiwanese tea toward a peak of the tea liquor have a burgundy and offered people memorable flavors. translucence. After the tea enters the The modern market, on the other

75/ Traditional Oolong Nowadays

Taiwanese tea’s specialty lies in its high quality. If quan-

“ tity is demanded, how do we preserve and maintain that quality? Traditional craftsmanship pushed Taiwan- ese tea toward a peak and offered people memorable “ flavors. The modern market, on the other hand, has a very different attitude towards tea.

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