HERMES NET UP 7.3 PERCENT/2 NORDSTROM SAYS ALOHA/3 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • March 21, 2008 • $2.00 Greener Beauty Pastures Antiaging is going green. Kiehl’s Since 1851, with its Superbly Restorative body care lineup, and , with its Green Science skin care collection, are aiming to prove that organic ingredients can deliver the same punch as lab-generated equivalents. Superbly Restorative will be out in April in 200 U.S. specialty stores and Kiehl’s 26 freestanding retail stores. Green Science, which will be sold in about 4,000 salon, spa and Aveda retail doors, will launch in May. For more, see page 4.

Coty on the Prowl: Firm Seeks Deals to Build Color, Skin Care By Molly Prior sensibility, is looking for targets In December, Coty took a ergers and acquisitions may to fortify its color and decisive step closer to becoming a Mbe scarce these days, but Coty skin care businesses, and lessen more well-rounded beauty player Inc. — the prolific fragrance house its dependence on the troubled by acquiring DLI Holding Corp., — has a hankering for buying. fragrance industry. The strategy which is known in the beauty The New York-based firm, also will catapult Coty to its goal of industry as Del Laboratories, for which has a strong European hitting the $5 billion mark by 2010. See Coty, Page 6 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MEGAN MCINTYRE THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 WWD.COM Hermès Reports 7.3% Profi t Gain By Miles Socha erage exchange rates for the re- including the U.S.” spective periods.) However, he cautioned it is WWDFRIDAY PARIS — Aided by disposals and Operating profits in 2007 “difficult to extrapolate” for Beauty accelerating sales in the second improved 2.1 percent to 423.7 the balance of the year given half of 2007, full-year net profits million euros, or $580.8 mil- multiple uncertainties in the GENERAL at Hermès International rose 7.3 lion, from 415.2 million euros, U.S. and a “challenging market Mergers and acquisitions may be scarce these days, but Coty Inc. is on percent to 288 million euros, or or $521.6 million, as sales in- in ,” which accounted for 1 the prowl for targets to fortify its color cosmetics and skin care sectors. $394.8 million, from 268.4 mil- creased 7.3 percent to 1.63 bil- 24 percent of Hermès sales last Aided by disposals and accelerating sales in the second half, full-year lion euros, or $337.2 million, a lion euros, or $2.38 billion. At year. The Americas represented year ago. constant exchange rates, the 15 percent of sales, France 20 2 net profi ts at Hermès International rose 7.3 percent to $394.8 million. “We had very good results bump in operating profi ts stood percent, the rest of Europe 21 Banana Republic has launched an investigation into British newspaper from our growth engines: silk, at 14.5 percent. percent, Asia-Pacifi c 17 percent 3 allegations of unfair working conditions at its contractors in India. men’s ready-to-wear, fashion The fi gures include an excep- and other regions 3 percent. accessories and jewelry. This tional gain of 9.2 million euros, Thomas said Hermès would In its fi rst designer collaboration, Express has tapped Celia Birtwell to did boost the figures,” said or $12.6 million, from the dis- continue expanding its produc- 3 design four limited edition mini collections that will bow April 7. Patrick Thomas, chief execu- posal of bonds in Leica Camera tion capacity and store network Complementing its blossoming lifestyle brand, Dsquared2 has signed a tive offi cer at Hermès. “We are AG. The net margin remained this year, opening 12 new branch- 3 fi ve-year license with Marcolin for its fi rst eyewear collection. very pleased.” steady at 17.7 percent of sales. es. The locations are in San Diego The results were “slightly bet- Given mounting economic and Santa Fe, N.M., in the United After 15 years of broken promises and thwarted ambitions, Nordstrom ter” than Hermès’ projections and woes in the U.S., Thomas said States, four stores in , two 3 has unveiled a full-line store at the Ala Moana Center in Honolulu. bested analysts’ expectations. forecasting is becoming increas- in Macau and one each in Hong With natural and organic products generating about $57 billion a year in Still, unfavorable exchange ingly diffi cult. Hermès has set a Kong, Seoul, Kobe in Japan and 8 the U.S., attendance at the Natural Products Expo West set a record. rates chopped 80 million euros, sales growth target of around 10 Delhi in India. Roughly 30 stores or $109.7 million, off full-year percent at constant exchange are slated for renovation. Diane von Furstenberg will unveil a travel-oriented line in Florence on sales tallies, and wiped 44 mil- for 2008. Last year, Hermès said in- 9 June 18 at the invitation of the city and the Pitti Immagine trade show. lion euros, or $60.3 million, from Asked about recent trading, vestments in its factories and operating results. (Dollar fi gures Thomas said, “The beginning of boutiques totaled 156 million Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 are converted from euros at av- the year was good everywhere, euros, or $213.9 million. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. [email protected], using the individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 61. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with Neiman’s, Copley Growing in Boston one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided By Katherine Bowers by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ BOSTON — Simon Property Group plans a major Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: expansion of the upscale Copley Place complex return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: here, boosting the size of Neiman Marcus about SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 50 percent and adding more than 110,000 square 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE feet of retail space and a condominium tower. INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new Neiman’s, one of the downtown center’s an- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production chors, is to grow its 115,000-square-foot footprint correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, by 54,000 square feet. The Dallas-based luxury re- please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other tailer has wanted to enlarge its “very productive” Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list Boston store for years, said Wayne Hussey, senior available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA vice president of store development. 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, The additional space is “crucial to strengthening OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, the Neiman Marcus brand in Boston,” Hussey said. BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED Citing the “signifi cant infusion of retail into MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR the Greater Boston area,” he said the chance “to A rendering of the larger Neiman Marcus. CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY expand our presence in downtown Boston will en- health club and day spa, which are slated to open A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. able Neiman Marcus to further preserve our com- in 2012. petitive advantage.” Neiman Marcus will stay open during reno- Carl Dieterle, executive vice president of de- vations, which Hussey estimated would take 12 velopment for Simon Property Group, said Copley to 18 months and broaden every merchandise was conceived in the Eighties with a residential category. The Boston store is too small to ac- component. However, because the complex is commodate children’s wear and has only a few Quote of the Week built over the Massachusetts Turnpike tunnels, branded shop-in-shops, two elements the retail- the tower was too costly and structurally com- er has in its unit in Natick, Mass., 20 miles west plex for the original developer. Simon has now of Boston. “I wear some of the Versace sweaters. I resolved the engineering issues and, pending city Simon Property Group is spending $450 million approval, plans to break ground in 2009. to expand and upgrade its Boston-area properties can’t speak for anyone else, but I think The 41-story tower will sit on the Stuart Street as the region undergoes a development surge. Plaza, now a windswept and often empty brick Copley Place, which also features Louis Vuitton I look great in them.” expanse. At ground level, the tower will have and Barneys New York, among other luxury Neiman Marcus and a soaring conservatory gar- stores, is scheduled for a cosmetic overhaul along — Woody Allen at the launch den. Above there will be 300 luxury condos, a with the expansion. of Donatella Versace’s men’s wear collection. Retail Shares Up as Dow Posts Gain In Brief etail shares gained momentum on Thursday at $9.63 in trading on the New York Stock Rafter commodities future prices declined, Exchange. Over 77.6 million shares of CIT trad- ● DONNA’S HONOR: Donna Karan will be among the honor- giving investors hope consumers might step up ed, compared with a three-month average vol- ees at this year’s Wayuu Taya Inc. gala benefi t. their pace of spending as a result of lower energy ume of nearly 6.2 million shares. The fund-raiser, which will take place at The Bowery Hotel and food costs. CIT said Thursday it was drawing upon $7.3 in New York on June 5, also will honor Iman, singer Bebel The Dow Jones Industrial Average closed up billion in bank fi nancing to fund operations and Gilberto, philanthropist Dany Garcia Johnson and Creative 261.7 points to 12,361.32, while the broader S&P might sell some of its assets. Vision’s founder Kathy Eldon. Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, 500 grew 2.4 percent to 1,329.66. The S&P Retail “Our decision today is a result of the pro- Narciso Rodriguez and Isaac Mizrahi are expected to be pre- Index surged 4.9 percent to 395.77. tracted disruption in the capital markets,” senters at the event, which will be emceed by author and for- Notable gainers included J.C. Penney Co. said Jeffrey Peek, CIT’s chairman and chief mer MSNBC television news anchor Rita Cosby. Gilberto also Inc., which rose 8 percent to $42.12; ’s Corp., executive offi cer. “It provides us with added is slated to perform at the event. The Wayuu Taya Foundation up 6.4 percent to $45.55; Macy’s Inc., which in- fl exibility and ensures that our clients have the was created by model and actress Patricia Velasquez in 2002 creased 7 percent to $24.85; Sears Holdings fi nancing they need to operate and grow their to raise funds for indigenous communities in Latin America. Corp., up nearly 7 percent to $103.87, and Saks businesses successfully.” Inc., which jumped 5.4 percent to end the day “The bottom line is there’s obviously less at $12.83. credit,” said William Detwiler, partner at Watch One stock that saw heavy trading volume was Hill Partners, a boutique investment bank and CIT Group Inc., which provides fi nancing to advisory fi rm. “You probably will be able to get Correction many companies in the retail and apparel sec- a new credit facility, it will probably just be at Tickets to the High School of Fashion Industries event honoring tors through its commercial lending group. higher prices.” Ruth Finley are $100. Due to misinformation from the school, the Shares of CIT fell 17.3 percent to close — Jeanine Poggi and Evan Clark price was incorrect in a story on page 5, Thursday. WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 3 WWD.COM Express Teams With Birtwell Via C for emerging labels. By Marcy Medina n its first designer collaboration, Express has tapped Celia IBirtwell to design four limited edition minicollections. The first will appear in stores April 7. Birtwell, known for the colorful prints she designed for late husband Ossie Clark’s bohemian label in the Sixties and Seventies, later found more acclaim as a home textiles de- signer. Now her son and daughter-in-law run her eponymous London shop, and Birtwell has returned to the apparel world. In 2006, her line for Topshop became a runaway hit. Separately, the iconic Ossie Clark brand is aiming for a revival. Chanel’s new “This spring is all about vibrant prints, so we tapped one of cosmetics format. the greatest print legends in Celia Birtwell,” said Fran Horowitz, executive vice president and general manager of merchandising and design for the $1.8 billion apparel chain. “Our design team worked closely with hers to rework the color palette so that it sits Nordstrom Finally Says ‘Aloha’ to Hawaii with our product in a really fresh and new way for the season.” Birtwell, who was in Philadelphia when the deal developed, By Sharon Edelson The Seattle-based Nordstrom took pains to went to a local mall to check out one of Express’ 500-plus stores. design a store in sync with the surroundings. “I liked their blocks of color, which seemed like the perfect ve- fter 15 years of broken promises and thwarted The contemporary-style building was inspired by hicle to add prints,” she said from her London home. “I thought A ambitions, Nordstrom earlier this month un- Hawaiian architecture, with backlit windows that I’d be suitable for that.” veiled a full-line store at the Ala Moana Center create an Asian lantern effect. Inside, columns The fi rst collection includes two silk chiffon blouses in six dif- in Honolulu. The 210,000-square-foot unit — the wrapped in white coral with fossilized seashells ferent prints retailing for $79.50 and one silk chiffon dress in two retailer’s first full-line store in Hawaii — ranked reference the ocean. Fine art by local artists such different prints for $128, about 15 to 20 percent more than most in the top-five openings in the company’s history, as Don Ed Hardy, Scottie Flamm, Bruce Behnke, of the store’s offerings, but among the most fashion-forward yet. and Nordstrom is savoring the moment. Curt Ginther, Carl Pao and Franco Salmoiraghi is Birtwell combined some of her vintage patterns with new ones to “We had deals that kept falling apart,” said on display. create the styles, which have an updated bohemian vibe. Blake Nordstrom, president of Nordstrom Inc. “We customized the store, given the importance “Everything goes in circles; there’s nothing new, really,” she “Before General Growth Properties [Ala Moana’s of the market and the unique location,” Nordstrom said. “It’s just getting the right time and place. I think people will owner] bought the mall, we talked with the pre- said. “It defi nitely has a unique feel for us.” like them because they are pretty and wearable, and affordable, vious owner, but Liberty House [a local retailer] The store has a large designer offering, but which is especially important now with fi nances in fl ux.” blocked us. Then we signed a lease a few blocks Nordstrom would like more. “The challenge for Express’ 100 high-performing away at the Victoria Ward Center. GGP bought that us is distribution,” he said. “A lot of brands have stores will sell the pieces, which num- mall and canceled the lease. We have never had a their own shops, not only at Ala Moana, but in ber just 250 units a store. The second store take this long to open.” Waikiki, a mile away. We’d like to have more de- collection will drop in July, and dates Nordstrom declined to discuss sales projections, signer, and we think we could sell more. There’s are to be determined for the third and but said, “Ala Moana has one of the highest sales no doubt there’s customer demand for it.” fourth, which Birtwell just fi nished. per square foot of any mall in the country. It’s a very A Lanvin shop on the third fl oor is only the The designer approves of merging name-brand driven market. Part of that is Japanese second U.S. shop-in-shop for the French fashion high design with mass market fashion. tourism, which has a big impact on the mall.” house. There’s also a St. John shop, European and “Today there are pretty people from Nordstrom is no stranger to Hawaii. The retailer American designer collections, via C with labels all walks of life, not just kids with has had a presence on the island for many years, such as 3.1 Phillip Lim, M Missoni, Milly, Moschino money,” she said. “I like that.” operating leased shoe departments in 10 Liberty Cheap & Chic, Tory Burch and Vince. Savvy, t.d.b. Birtwell also is launching a line for House stores from 1966 to 1997. When the agreement and Individualist departments are also found on Topshop in June, as well as a line for with Liberty House ended, Nordstrom opened a three, along with Ebar, an espresso bar. British sporting goods chain Millet’s freestanding shoe store at Ala Moana. A Nordstrom Much of the merchandise is skewed toward lo- in May. Rack unit bowed at Ward Center in 2000. cals. The Ala Moana unit has the largest petite de- “I hate seeing all those plastic anor- “We parted ways with Liberty House when we partment of any store in the chain and the largest aks; they should be forbidden,” she said. expressed an interest in having a full-line store,” selection of sunglasses. There are fewer suits and “These clothes will blend with nature.” Nordstrom said. “The main reason we opened a more trousers and an emphasis on swimwear. The line is set to launch just before [freestanding] shoe store was because we knew A highlight of the main (second) fl oor is the the U.K.’s Glastonbury music festival, we wanted to have a full-line store. We had great women’s shoe area, which has 35 percent more where concertgoers such as Kate Moss managers and great salespeople [in the Liberty space than Nordstrom’s average shoe departments. and Gwyenth Paltrow don Wellies and House departments], and we wanted to keep as “The shoes are pretty spectacular,” Nordstrom casual gear to sit through the often A look from the new Celia many as we could.” said. “We have more of a reputation for shoes in rainy shows. Birtwell line for Express. In spite of the state’s low 2.5 percent unemploy- Hawaii. It’s a three-room shoe department.” ment rate, Nordstrom said the company received Also on the second fl oor is an open-sell cosmetics 2,400 job applications for the store. department with a new Chanel concept, accessories and handbags. BP, young contemporary fashion, has specially designed lighting, a screen showing the lat- Dsquared2 in Eyewear Deal est music and fashion videos and “the apartment,” a dressing room concept with a fl at-screen TV, couch- By Alessandra Ilari es and fashion magazines for teens. Lingerie, kids’ wear, the Rail department MILAN — In another addition to their blossoming lifestyle for denim and casual sportswear, men’s and the brand, Dsquared2 designers Dean and Dan Caten have signed Marketplace Cafe are on the fi rst level. a five-year license with Marcolin Group SpA for their first eye- “This is the biggest store we’ve opened in sev- wear collection. eral years,” Nordstrom said. “We’ve heard that The pact is for production and worldwide distribution of customers are excited for us to be at Ala Moana men’s and women’s frames. Dsquared2 launched its fi rst fra- because of the niche we have between Macy’s and Collectors for designer labels. grance last year. GARCIA MARCO PHOTOS BY Neiman Marcus.” The launch of the fi rst sunglasses is slated for the fi rst half of 2009, with prescription frames to follow soon after. According to a Marcolin spokeswoman, the project will gen- erate annual sales of 20 million euros, or $29.2 million at cur- Banana Republic to Examine Factory Allegations rent exchange rates. “Eyewear was our missing link and we feel it’s important By Lucie Greene tory deliberately concealed information or misled because a pair of glasses can make a distinctive statement and an investigation, we would immediately take steps pull a look together,” said Dan Caten. “We plan a sporty chic LONDON — Banana Republic said Thursday that that could ultimately lead to the termination of look by working with sharp and linear shapes and using color it has launched an investigation into British news- the factory,” said Dan Henkle, Gap Inc.’s senior and enamel details.” paper allegations of unfair working conditions at vice president of social responsibility. He said he was impressed by Marcolin’s effi ciency in turning factories that produce its clothing. “We are looking at the factories in that area sketches and ideas into prototypes with a clinical eye for the Banana Republic’s statement came on the where production of our clothing is done — facto- smallest detail. heels of a report in The Guardian newspaper al- ries which also do work for a number of other re- Maurizio Marcolini, style and licensing offi cer at Marcolin, leging that workers in India are being forced to tailers — and plan to take appropriate action,” he said, “Dean and Dan Caten’s great potential and design tal- work more than 70 hours a week for less than 15 said, adding Gap already employs 90 staff globally ent, combined with the high appreciation for this brand, will pence, or 30 cents, an hour. to ensure compliance of factories with its Code of ensure success.” The newspaper conducted its investigation Vendor Conduct. Marcolin is still ironing out both the price list and the num- with the London-based charity War on Want, “This includes regularly conducting announced ber of sales points for the collection. The eyewear will also be and the charity also staged a demonstration and unannounced factory visits,” he said. “In 2006, available in Dsquared2’s Milan fl agship and in the brand’s units at Banana Republic’s new London fl agship on we revoked our approval of 23 factories for com- slated to open this year in Capri, Italy; Istanbul; Kiev, Ukraine; Thursday, the day of its offi cial opening. The pliance violations.” , and Moscow. Regent Street store is Banana Republic’s fi rst Banana Republic’s announcement follows The Dsquared2 brand is licensed to Staff International unit in the U.K. another investigation launched by Gap Inc. in SpA. Marcolin’s portfolio of licensed line includes Tom Ford, “Gap Inc. condemns unfair working conditions, October. That probe came after allegations by The Roberto Cavalli, Miss Sixty, Kenneth Cole and Montblanc. such as the type of wage and hour violations de- Guardian’s sister title, The Observer, that Gap scribed in this case. In fact, if we found that a fac- clothing was being produced by child labor. 4 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 The Beauty Report A Restoration Effort From Kiehl’s Aveda Takes Antiaging iehl’s Since 1851 has a simple mission for spring: proving that its body care can have the Ksame antiaging qualities as face products. Into the Green Zone “This is our fi rst totally restorative body care collection,” said Chris Salgardo, U.S. presi- dent of Kiehl’s, of the brand’s new Superbly Restorative body care lineup. It is set for an April veda’s out to prove that it’s easy being green — and effective, launch. “Usually, we save the highest-tech ingredients for the face — but we felt strongly about A to boot. launching a line which offered similar benefi ts for the body.” The brand is launching Green Science skin care, a lineup of The brand’s best-selling skin care product at present is Creme de Corps, a body which fo- plant-infused facial treatment products, in May. cuses on hydration, explained Salgardo. “Superbly Restorative, which we will launch on Earth Day, “We’re a little late to the antiaging market, but we wanted to do it gives restorative benefi ts, as well. It can be used in tandem with Creme de Corps, or on its own.” right,” said Suzanne Dawson, vice president of marketing for Aveda. The ingredient powering Superbly Restorative is organic argan oil, which Kiehl’s is sourcing “We see a great deal of opportunity in skin care. The professional from the Targanine Cooperative in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. While argan oil may be relative- skin care market, according to Kline [a worldwide consulting and ly new to skin care, it has a long history among the Berber population in Morocco, said Salgardo. research fi rm] is now a $5.2 billion dollar market. Overall, we are “Argan has been used in food preparation forever, and we’re now recognizing its potential the number-two spa brand in the U.S., and we’re aiming to be num- in skin care,” said Salgardo. “It’s naturally rich in polyunsaturated oils and very rich in anti- ber one. We think this line — and other recent introductions, such oxidants, especially linoleic acid — which is proven to help maintain skin elasticity. It’s also as our Outer Peace acne line — will get us there.” amazingly moisturizing. And the way that we’ve designed these products allows for multiple Green Science is powered by certifi ed organic argan oil, a fatty uses — for instance, the oil can be used on your body, your hair or your cuticles.” acid replacement that is designed to help restore the skin’s mois- The collection will include two products at launch: Superbly Restorative Body Lotion, $35 ture barrier, noted Dawson. The Berbers, an indigenous people of for 6.8 oz., and Superbly Restorative Dry Oil, $30 for 4.2 oz., with a third product, Superbly Northern Africa, have used argan oil for medicinal, culinary and Restorative Skin Salve, expected in June. The products are packaged in 100 percent post-con- cosmetics purposes for years due to its concentrated amounts of sumer recycled plastic, added Salgardo. linoleic acid, polyunsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, noted While Salgardo declined to discuss sales, industry sources estimated that Superbly Restorative Pat Petersen, executive director of research and development for body care would do upwards of $5 million at retail in its fi rst year on counter. Kiehl’s is available in Aveda. “We’re using two components of the plant — extract from the just under 200 specialty store doors in the U.S., and in the brand’s 26 freestanding retail stores. leaves and oil from the kernels the plant produces,” noted Petersen. Salgardo is also proud that the “The leaf extract has anti-infl ammatory properties, while the kernel Superbly Restorative line marks Kiehl’s oil contains a lot of the same lipids you will fi nd in the skin. entry into fair-trade ingredients. “Fair “There seems to be a ‘no pain, no gain’ mentality with some facial trade, which is an organized social move- treatment products,” continued Petersen. “The focus for Aveda has The Superbly ment, which promotes standards for inter- always been to do products that leave you with very little redness or Restorative lineup. national labor and social policy, focuses irritation — and we’ve been able to develop these high-performing on exports from developing countries to products that stimulate and soothe, as well as deliver a very effec- developed countries,” said Salgardo. “The tive treatment.” funds that the Targanine Cooperative In addition to argan oil, the Green Science lineup includes or- is earning from sourcing our argan oil ganic plai oil, said to be a powerful antioxidant and anti-infl amma- are going to education and health care. tory; organic cactus, said to inhibit the destruction of collagen and That’s very important to us, as a socially help stimulate collagen synthesis; glucosamine, for its moisturiza- responsible company.” Kiehl’s will offer tion and exfoliating properties, and boswellia, an anti-infl ammato- an “Argan Oil Journey” in stores, which ry ingredient said to help boost the skin’s elasticity. The products will take consumers through the sourc- are lightly scented with geranium, grapefruit, palmarosa and ber- ing process. gamot essential oils. Speaking of being responsible, The lineup includes four retail products designed to be used Kiehl’s is collaborating with Parsons together: Lifting Serum, priced $50 for 50 ml.; Firming Face The New School for Design on the Creme, $55 for 50 ml.; Firming Eye Creme, $45 for 15 ml., and Line school’s annual Sustainable Design Minimizer, $85 for 10 3-ml.tubes. A professional-strength Skin Review Competition. Open to all New Renewing Treatment has been developed for use in Aveda spas and School students, the contest’s aim is to salons. A second professional-strength service, a plant-based peel, develop creative, yet sustainable pack- is expected to launch later this year. Packaging ranges from 50 to aging. Students are challenged to be as 100 percent recycled material, and the products are produced with innovative as possible without altering 100 percent wind power, said Dawson. Kiehl’s formulas or packaging require- Green Science will be available in about 4,000 doors in the U.S., ments. A winner will be announced on including salons, spas and Aveda freestanding stores and online at May 11, and Kiehl’s plans to explore aveda.com. executing the winning designs in stores While none of the executives would discuss sales projections, in- nationwide, said Salgardo. dustry sources estimated that the Green Science collection could do — Julie Naughton upward of $20 million at retail in its fi rst year on counter. National advertising is not planned at launch, although Dawson said it is likely KIEHL’S AND AVEDA PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY AND AVEDA KIEHL’S Aveda will advertise the line in 2009, once it is in full distribution. The brand has also tapped its ayurvedic heritage for a second May offering, Chakra Balancing Body Mists, designed to be used in tan- dem with a new spa service, Chakra Balancing Massage. According to Mark Zolicoffer, global spa educator for Aveda — who developed the Chakra Balancing Massage — the body has seven chakras, lo- cated at major branches of the nervous system. “Energy fl ows in an ascend- ing order, from the fi rst chakra at the tailbone to the seventh chakra at the top of the head,” said Zolicoffer. “Each chakra can affect our wellness — when one chakra is blocked, there is an imbalance, resulting in a dimin- ished sense of wellness.” The spa service combines pro- fessional-strength Chakra Balancing Blends, deep tissue mas- sage, chakra foot re- fl exology massage and chakra energy work with guided medita- tion therapy to “har- monize these energy centers, thus promot- ing health, balance and personal growth,” said Helga Hefner, spa treatment educator for Aveda. To contin- ue the experience at home, aromatic body sprays based on each of the seven chakras have been developed. Each will retail for $30 for 100 ml. Part of Aveda’s Green Science collection. — J.N. WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 5

WWD.COM Bliss and Philips: Bikini-Ready Darphin’s New Recipe FUZZ, BEGONE. BlissWorld LLC and Royal Philips Electronics have teamed up on a deal to produce Bikini Perfect, an at-home system that is set for a May launch. For Philips, best known for its consumer electronics, the deal is a way to penetrate the lucrative U.S. For Sensitive Skin beauty market, said Jacopo D’Alessandris, marketing director for Philips Consumer Lifestyle. “Philips has number-one or number-two market shares for female depilation and hair care appliances in a num- arphin is serving up a new cocktail for stressed skin ber of markets, including Europe and Latin America,” he said. “But we still have a lot of opportunity for Dthis spring. growth in the U.S. market, and we believe that this deal will help us do that.” With its Intral Collection, slated for a May launch, the Philips and Bliss will co-market a collection of beauty tools. First to market: Bikini Perfect, an elec- brand is aiming to offer a luxurious option for consumers tronic tool with six attachments. The Precision Trimmer is designed to groom the bikini line; Precision with extremely sensitive skin, said Beth DiNardo, general Comb, with fi ve length settings, is designed to ensure precise grooming results for the bikini line; Eyebrow manager of Darphin North America. Comb trims eyebrows to a uniform length; Micro Trimmer shapes The collection is powered by the brand’s proprietary and defi nes eyebrows and removes single hairs in that area; Calm Complex, which includes chamomile, polysaccha- The Bikini Perfect Micro Shaver is designed to attack hard-to-reach hairs, rides, hawthorn, peony and panthenol and is intended to grooming system. and Epilator removes hair from the root. protect skin from external stressors, explained Laurance Bliss and Philips will market two versions Cassereau, director of research and development for of the Bikini Perfect kit. One, for Ulta, Amazon Darphin. Glycosaminoglycanes, another key inclusion, are and other prestige retailers, will include the intended to keep enzymes responsible for collagen destruc- unit, attachments and sample sizes of Bliss’ tion at bay. As well, bisabolol and resveratrol are included Lemon + Sage Body Butter and an Ingrown Hair for soothing and anti-irritant properties, and bran extract Eliminating Pad. A second set, which will be sold for its reparative properties. at Bliss’ seven spas, as well as through Bliss’ cata- The Darphin Intral lineup includes Anti Redness logue and Web site, will include everything in Smoothing Serum, $110 for 1.6 oz.; Soothing Cream, $90 for the retail set, as well as additional Ingrown Hair 1.6 oz.; Redness Relief Recovery Cream, $90 for 1.6 oz., and Eliminating Peeling Pads and Bliss’ Lemon + Sage Redness Relief Recovery Balm, $90 for 1.6 oz., said Anne Body Scrub. The products will be in 250 Supplisson, director of global marketing, training and spa doors, 230 Ulta doors and online at amazon.com, development for Darphin. drugstore.com, sephora.com and blissworld.com. In addition to the Intral line, the brand will release two Each kit retails for $59.99. additional products for sensitive skin in May. Lipid Enriched “This partnership — and these kits — will Soothing Cleansing Cream, $50 for 6.7 oz., is a gentle bath allow consumers to complement their spa servic- and shower cream with licorice and mimosa, and Lipid es at home — or, if there isn’t a Bliss spa nearby, Replenishing Soothing Balm, $65 for 6.7 oz., includes shea they’re great do-it-yourself treatment options,” butter, vitamin E and glycerin to seal moisture into the skin. said Kerry O’Day, marketing director for Bliss. In addition to its lineup of new products, the brand, While the executives refused to discuss sales which is sold in pharmacies in its native France, is reorga- projections, industry sources estimated that nizing its U.S. distribution strategy. The brand is currently Bikini Perfect could generate fi rst-year retail working to develop a more comprehensive spa program in sales of $5 million. the U.S., which DiNardo notes is “a very important priority” National advertising is not planned at launch; for Darphin. “We’re putting our money where our mouth is instead, noted O’Day, the product will be support- on that subject,” said DiNardo. “In the past, we’ve been very ed by in-store activities and editorial placements. driven by department store distribution. Now, we’re building — Julie Naughton on two pillars: retail distribution and spa distribution.” To that end, the brand’s new vice president of spa de- velopment, Carol Ruiz, is evaluating the spa market, with a target of increasing Darphin’s distribution to 150 spas within the next three years. “Going forward, this strategy Heatherette Heads Into Makeup With MAC validates our authenticity,” said Ruiz. The brand is currently in 17 Neiman Marcus doors in the U.S., as well as Bergdorf ichie Rich and Traver Rains’ limited edition color collection for MAC Cosmetics is part Willy Goodman in New York and 25 high-end spas and 30 Blue RWonka, part club kid and all Heatherette. Mercury stores nationwide. DiNardo noted that the brand is “The packaging is the candy part, but the makeup you can wear to the prom or school or what- also narrowing its retail doors, choosing to focus on fl agship ever. The club is for bright colors,” explained Rich. “The MAC team was right on our wavelength,” locations. “We don’t need to be everywhere,” said DiNardo. added Rains. “They know Heatherette inside and out. The translation was amazing.” “We want to be very focused on the best doors.” Heatherette and Estée Lauder-owned MAC have created runway makeup looks together since the That’s a strategy that Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, the New York-based apparel brand’s runway debut in 2001. At that time, Rich recalled, Heatherette and Estée Lauder Cos. group president who oversees Darphin, MAC collaborated on a pink , but that’s where is fully in support of. “This line has a lot of appeal to the the duo’s involvement in the beauty industry stopped Part of the niche consumer,” he said. “We are cultivating high-end con- until now. The collection is launching on Thursday at Heatherette line sumers and helping them discover the products.” Bousquet- all MAC locations, including 150 freestanding stores and for MAC. Chavanne noted that he believes the brand has a great deal 500 department and specialty stores. of international potential. “We’ve just launched in South “It is a bit outrageous. It has a downtown vibe to it, Korea and Taiwan, and we see terrifi c opportunities in the and it is colorful. It works well with being put into the Asian market, as well as here in the U.S.,” he said. MAC DNA,” said James Gager, senior vice president While none of the executives would discuss sales projec- and creative director of MAC Worldwide. “It seems like tions, industry sources estimated that the Intral Collection a natural extension to be working with those two guys.” could do upward of $1 million at retail in its fi rst year in About a year ago, Rich and Rains started the product the U.S. development process by scooping up the contents of their — J.N. studio — sequins, glitter, swatches, bows and rhinestones — and bringing them in a bag to a meeting with MAC. The compacts’ holographic foil mirror ball decal with the Darphin’s Intral Heatherette logo can be traced to those sparkly . Collection and Although it’s playful, Rich and Rains were careful that the collection could be worn to a nightclub the existing and to the offi ce. “All the creative people with MAC thought we might want neon-neon, and then we Chamomile wanted wearable makeup. There was a collective sigh. It is Estée Lauder after all,” said Rich. The col- Aromatic Care. lection is separated into bad-girl and good-girl items, the former being showier and the latter tamer. “There is the hands-down fashionista crowd that is going to love it….Especially being in L.A., it is great to use it in a runway translation,” said Tiffany Johnston, senior makeup artist on the MAC Pro Team. “As a makeup wearer, you can easily maneuver your way through the line. They are wearable, friendly, fun colors.” The product lineup features four , four lipglass lipglosses, three trios, four dual- edge eye pencils, two pigments, two beauty powders, two glitters and two lash sets. Prices range from $14 for lipsticks and lipglasses to $32.50 for powders. Rich and Rains dreamed up the product names, and Rich pointed out his favorite is “Phone Me-Text Me” for a dual-edge eye pencil in gray and silver. Rich and Rains will be at a MAC store in Los Angeles to introduce the collection before stopping in New York and Miami on Tuesday and Thursday, respectively. The collection will be distributed to Canada and Europe shortly after the U.S., then will enter Asia in July and eventually will hit some 30 countries, according to Rich. Although he would not comment, industry sources estimate that the collection could generate globally more than $5 million in retail sales the fi rst year. Rich and Rains seemed confi dent that their MAC limited collection wouldn’t be the last the beau- ty industry hears from them. Rains had his heart set on a powder puff shaped like a corsage that got nixed in this collection, but he’d like to try again. And Rich indicated that Heatherette is consider- ing a fragrance with Estée Lauder. “Everybody wants to smell good,” he concluded. “After the next season, we will start working on that.” — Rachel Brown 6 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 The Beauty Report Coty in a Building Mood Despite Credit Woes

Continued from page one celebrity roster has since fueled this shortened, rapid-fi re launch cycle. In doing so, an estimated $800 million. it has rewritten the category’s business model, which was once predicated on lon- “We have a strategy to really build out our three pillars: fragrance, color cosmet- gevity. Now in its sixth year, the Jennifer Lopez franchise generates about $100 mil- ics and skin care,” said Coty chief executive offi cer Bernd Beetz. “We succeeded lion in annual sales. Coty’s star wrangling prowess has resulted in other fragrance over the last fi ve years to have double-digit growth on our existing base business, deals with Celine Dion, the Beckhams, Kate Moss, Gwen Stefani and, most recently, and that is what we continue to project for the future. Plus we always think about ’s longtime spokesmodel Halle Berry. When asked if consumers’ interest in adding acquisitions.” celebrity scents may be waning, Beetz said, “The importance of celebrity in the beau- The Del Labs purchase — which added Sally Hansen, the budget color line NYC ty industry is increasing. Just look at all the endorsement deals. From a sociological New York Color, La Cross implements and Orajel oral care — has shifted the ratios point of view, I don’t see people’s interest in celebrities decreasing.” of Coty’s key pillars of fragrance, cosmetics and skin care. Refl ecting on the shorter life cycles in the fragrance Prior to Del Labs, fragrance accounted for 70 percent of business, he said, “I think it’s going to be more discrimi- company sales, color cosmetics for 15 percent and toilet- natory. The stakes are going to be higher and the invest- ries and skin care for the remaining 15 percent combined. ADDING UP BEAUTY ments are going to be higher. So, there’s going to be a big- Those percentages have now shifted to 61 percent ger threshold for those who are successful.” That for fragrance, 25 percent for color and 14 percent said, Beetz declared that Coty plans to increase for toiletries and skin care. its marketing might behind its fragrance brands. Coty plans to grow its cosmetics business — And perhaps for good reason, Coty’s reliance on which prior to Del Labs was anchored by the fragrance has prompted some fi nancial experts brand — with the launch next month to question the fi rm’s profi tability. But Beetz is of Sally Hansen Natural Beauty, a cosmetics adamant the fi rm has a double-digit operating line created in collaboration with the resident margin, which he said is well ahead of several makeup artist Carmindy of TLC’s “What Not to public beauty fi rms. As a point of comparison, the Wear.” Natural Beauty marks Sally Hansen’s Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. had an operating margin second stab at color — the brand launched the of 10.7 percent in fi scal 2007, and L’Oréal’s op- now defunct Healing Beauty line in 2003. High erating margin was 16.7 percent last year. Each prices were likely to blame for Healing Beauty’s acquisition, particularly outside the fragrance shortcomings, said industry sources, but retail- category, helps to improve Coty’s profi t margins, ers seem optimistic about the introduction of noted fi nancial experts. Natural Beauty. Beetz has also upped the ante — and risk Sherry Saffert, divisional merchandise man- quotient — with a spate of acquisitions and ager of beauty care for CVS Pharmacy, said of divestitures. During the past fi ve years, Coty Natural Beauty, “The new line has a quality in- acquired the Marc Jacobs and Kenneth Cole gredient story with premium packaging and pric- fragrance licenses from LVMH Moët Hennessy ing. It is a full color assortment line inspired Louis Vuitton for an estimated $50 million; by Carmindy…with the customer in mind.” She Unilever Cosmetics International’s designer added CVS has allotted two-feet of space in its fragrance brands — including Calvin Klein, “best doors” for Natural Beauty, alongside simi- Vera Wang, Chloé and Cerruti — for an esti- larly positioned brands, including Physicians mated $800 million, and most recently the Del Formula, and . Labs brands. At the same time, it has shed less- Beetz also sees ample opportunity for the NYC attractive businesses, such as specialty bath, brand, which often goes head to head for retail selling The Healing Garden and Calgon brands space with fellow value brand Wet ‘n’ Wild, owned by to Ascendia Brands Inc. The company has done Markwins International. Plans call for a global expan- this strategic maneuvering, said Beetz, while sion of the NYC brand, which sources estimate gener- maintaining a double-digit growth rate. He ates sales $66 million at retail. The brand’s current noted that the Del Labs acquisition has pushed international presence is about 5 percent, said Beetz. the fi rm’s revenues of $3.5 billion past the $4 International markets across all products account for billion mark, and closer to its previously an- about 60 percent of Coty’s sales. nounced goal of hitting $5 billion by 2010. Coty acquired Rimmel in 1996, when the edgy, Long before Beetz took over the helm, it London-based brand had sales of less than $100 was speculated the beauty firm’s owner, the million. Rimmel’s global retail sales have since Ludwigshafen, Germany-based Joh. A. Benckiser grown to about $700 million. The brand is slated to GmbH, a private holding company, had ambitions expand to China in May via a licensing agreement to take Coty public. Rounding out the company with Tokyo-based Kosé Corp. portfolio may mark a step toward that goal, said Referring to its acquired UCI and Rimmel industry observers. But given the sharp downturn businesses, Beetz said, “I think we have proven in the economy, it’s unlikely Coty would pursue with our brands so far that we are able to build an initial public offering this year. them, and with the expertise that we are also ac- A number of industry watchers have said Coty quiring with the teams at Del we should be able We have a strategy to really build has more heavy lifting to do to build robust color to make signifi cant progress there, too.” “ cosmetics and skin care businesses. As it stands, Coty plans to fully integrate the Del Labs busi- out our three pillars: fragrance, color Coty still leans heavily on the fragrance category, ness over the next 12 to 18 months, but Beetz which seems to have weakened under the load of noted Harvey Alstodt, president of Del Cosmetics, cosmetics and skin care. new launches. and his team continue to run the Del Cosmetics ” In the past fi ve years, over 1,000 new prestige fra- business. — Bernd Beetz, Coty grances have hit counters — an average of over 200 “When you put Del together with Coty, they be- a year, noted Karen Grant, senior beauty industry come a substantial supplier to the beauty world,” analyst, The NPD Group. She added that, compared said Alstodt. with 10 years ago, a typical prestige fragrance today on average will generate about one- Several retailers said that new product programs for Sally Hansen and NYC New third the volume of fragrances in the past. York Color that were announced prior to the acquisition remain in place for this year. The fl ood of short-lived fragrances has taken its toll. Sales of prestige fragrances Del Labs’ upper management, namely Charles Hinkaty, former president and ceo, and dipped 1 percent to $2.94 billion in 2007, according to The NPD Group. Joseph Sinicropi, chief fi nancial offi cer, left the company in January. Sources close to Coty may be able to shield itself from troubles in the fragrance category by beef- the situation said additional decisions to determine who stays and who goes will be ing up its skin care business, which at present is relatively small. In the past, the made in June or July. fi rm had expressed interest in dermatological skin care. When asked if Coty has an Since arriving at Coty in 2001, fresh from Parfums Christian Dior, Beetz has interest in Murad Inc., the skin care brand of El Segundo, Calif.-based dermatolo- revved up the company’s appetite for risk taking. Shortly after his arrival, Coty began gist Howard Murad that was recently eyed by the Estée Lauder Cos., Beetz said, “We mining Hollywood in a bid to revive the celebrity fragrance concept. Using Jennifer have a three-pillar strategy and we want to strengthen two pillars [color cosmetics Lopez’s Glow by JLo scent as the fi rst trial balloon, he upended the fragrance busi- and skin care]. We’re always open [to acquisitions] and as we look around the mar- ness by deliberately shortening the life cycle of new launches to nine months from a ket, if we see a target that interests us we will work on it, but we cannot talk about stretch of 12 to 18 months to feed consumers’ desire for newness. Coty’s expanding our prospective [acquisitions] in the marketplace.”

creating growth opportunities for IFF and its customers by any of the participating fragrances including Can Can Paris forming new alliances and partnerships. She has been with Hilton, Usher for Men and Usher for Women. Participants are IFF for 15 years. Frost, who most recently was vice president asked to express one or all of the emotions and adjectives SNIPPETS of global fi ne fragrance in marketing and market research for evoked by each brand — such as fresh, confi dent and sexy for Givaudan, will be responsible for managing the fi ne fragrance Usher for Men. The winner will receive $10,000 and national and beauty care marketing teams across the globe. exposure for the fi lm on ShopVogue.tv. Filmmakers can MUSICAL CHAIRS: International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. submit their fi lms for consideration at fragranceandfi lm.com has promoted Judith Gross to global director of fragrance FIFI FILMS: Vogue magazine has partnered with The Fragrance by April 25. The competition will fi rst be available for online innovation. Matt Frost has joined the company to replace Foundation to present the fi rst-ever Fragrance & Film Festival rating by the public. The four highest-rated fragrance fi lms Gross as global marketing director of fi ne fragrance and in honor of the 36th Annual FiFi Awards. Aspiring fi lmmakers will be reviewed by judges to determine the overall winner. beauty care. In her new role, Gross will be responsible for will be able to produce two- to three-minute short fi lms on Vogue is owned by Condé Nast Publications, parent of WWD. WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 7

WWD.COM Skinvitals Aims to Clean Up in U.S. Facial Care Market NEW YORK — Cloth wipe technology revolutionized everything and T-Purify, an antispot cleansing mask. The 0.83-oz. packets sell from cleansing products to . Now Skinvitals for $2.99. The company can also offer boxes of multiple packets. hopes the concept will clean up in skin care, too. Meaney said Skinvitals expects to launch other products in the U.S., Skinvitals is a collection of cloth facial treatment masks including those for specifi c problems. launched by ’s Beauty Direct and distributed in the The items are aimed at all age ranges and Meaney believes United States by Co. CVS was fi rst to market with six the eye products will be many shoppers’ fi rst try at the masks. stockkeeping units in America. Since the message is slightly different than conventional skin With success in more than 20 countries, Skinvitals’ marketing director Skinvitals’ care, Meaney said education and word of mouth will propel sales. To help Lynne Meaney thinks the technology is ripe for greater U.S. penetration. The masks. Americans understand the concept, new packaging will start shipping shortly wipes have been fast movers in Boots in England and European Sephoras. that features a woman using the mask versus the colorful splash package cur- Wipe technology has also been rapidly accepted throughout Asia and is rently available throughout the world. seeping into Western markets, but until now, primarily in the pres- Skinvitals caught the eye of Bonne Bell’s chairman and chief ex- tige channel. Mass market stores, however, have found shoppers ecutive offi cer Buddy Bell Jr. during a Cosmoprof show. Bell later quickly adapt to wipes for cleaning, leaving many to agree the time formed a partnership with Beauty Direct to distribute the line in is right for beauty. the U.S. Meaney acknowledged that the teamwork helps her com- “These are high-quality cloths that provide a very effective way to pany understand the intricacies of dealing with U.S. chains. Meaney, deliver the benefi ts of the products,” said Meaney. “They have the best however, needs no introduction to the beauty business. She was a ingredients such as hyaluronic acid in all masks and coenzyme Q10 in founder of , a natural beauty line from Australia created in our lift products. The eye brightener features a licorice extract which 1989. Red Earth was eventually sold to Esprit and exists today mostly tones and soothes.” All masks also feature Hydrolite 5, a patented ingredi- as a cosmetics range. ent that is designed to boost moisture levels. The packet form makes merchandising Skinvitals ideal for end-of-aisle In addition to the effective delivery system, Meaney said the single-use displays, or in line. Meaney believes Skinvitals fi ts well in skin care, but also packets are portable and the perfect size for travel. has many applications for cross-merchandising in cosmetics. “What’s great is Although the total range is much larger, the six items selected for America in- that these are additional sales. They aren’t instead of another product, so you clude H-Revive, a hydrating moisturizing softening mask; Q-Lift, a fi rming and nourishing don’t lose a sale. And, many consumers buy multiple products,” explained Meaney. She antiwrinkle mask; C-Brighten, a radiant moisturizing mask; Eye Brightener, an anti-dark added that despite the high-intensity skin care capabilities, the 10-minute masks can be circle brightener and invigorating mask; Eye Lift, an antipuffi ness, antiwrinkle mask, used daily if desired.

Makeup from Hairstylist to the Celebs Creates for Masses Jennifer Flavin- avid Babaii doesn’t want to rule the world — he wants able, too. Ingredients in the products include volcanic ash, Stallone. Dto help it. white ginger, blue algae and shea and Cupuacu butters. The 34-year-old Los Angeles hairstylist, whose client list Babaii stressed that his products shouldn’t be diffi cult to in- could be mistaken for an Academy Award-nominee roll call, tegrate into daily regimens and won’t create buildup. “My phi- has created the mass hair product line David Babaii for losophy is wash and go,” he explained. “Women shouldn’t be a WildAid with Kate Hudson, his fi rst celebrity regular. Ten slave to their hair, their hair should be a slave to them.” Babaii percent of the line’s proceeds will be donated to WildAid, said he and Hudson will put on so-called “shampoo parties” the animal protection organization, which shares ownership across the country to demonstrate the products to consumers. of the brand with Babaii, Hudson, advertising executive Eric David Babaii for WildAid products are sulfate-, para- Steinhauser and FHI Heat investor Eco Beauty Ventures. ben-, petroleum- and petrochemical- free, and are pack- “I wanted to do a line on my own, but I didn’t want to do aged in recycled plastic. The line is billed as natural, but the same thing. I want to make a difference,” said Babaii, not organic. “I don’t think every organic line out there is Flavin-Stallone whose current schedule features hair appointments with good. If we had gone with organic, I don’t think the tech- Angelina Jolie, Scarlett Johansson, Sarah Jessica Parker, nology is quite there yet,” said Babaii. Nicole Kidman and Gwyneth Paltrow. The line’s advertising campaign is centered on Hudson, Adds Mineral Makeup David Babaii for WildAid should be a hit out of the gate. who traveled with Babaii to South Africa in November The line’s distribution is expected to reach 25,000 doors by to be fi lmed and photographed with animals by Peter ormer model Jennifer Flavin-Stallone is November at chains such as Ralphs, CVS, Wal-Mart, Walgreens, Lindbergh. Ads will begin to run in June and July print Fadding some color to her customers’ lives Duane Reade, Ulta and Target, many of which Babaii said are publications and on television. with the launch of a mineral makeup line merchandising products in endcaps or special sections. Babaii The initial launch will be followed up in August and under the Seriesse International brand. declined to disclose fi rst-year sales, but industry sources esti- September with 14 additional items that concentrate on deep As a model, Flavin-Stallone had al- mate the line could generate $20 million in its fi rst 12 months. conditioning and styling. Tools will be also be part of lineup ways suffered from acne and wanted to Twelve items are launching in stores next month, in- in the future, and Babaii mentioned one curling iron that will create something that treated her sensi- cluding a Mise en Plis Extra Hold Styling Spray for sense when it gets too close to the scalp. Babaii and Hudson tive skin. Best known for offering skin $20, Amplifying Whipped Mousse for $19, Volcanic Ash are not stopping with hair: Makeup, skin care, pet products care and nutritional supplements, the Sculpting Clay for $17, Hair Polish for $18 and Bohemian and perhaps even kids’ clothes are on the horizon. wife of Sylvester Stallone started her Beach Spray for $15. Shampoo and conditioners are avail- — Rachel Brown business 15 years ago, selling the Serious Skin Care line on HSN. In October, Flavin-Stallone and her husband decid- ed to parlay the success of Serious Skin Care to create Seriesse International, a home-based multilevel direct-selling P&G Looks to Get Moisturization Down to a Science marketing company employing more than rocter & Gamble Beauty is hoping to change the way ment in the surface of the hair and skin and this tool 8,000 sales consultants to sell Seriesse Ppeople think about moisturization with a new ap- helps measure optimal hydration and water ingredients health and beauty products. Seriesse proach dubbed Aquacurrent Science, designed to optimize on the skin’s surface to ensure that the best formula of International combines Flavin-Stallone’s moisture movement in the skin and hair. active ingredients is used,” said Mitra. “If the water can skin care line with her new luxury make- “This is an approach to better harness the power of be delivered effectively across all layers of skin, then it up, as well as Stallone’s antiaging, nu- moisture and hydration for beauty care products and we’re leads to optimal hydration that leads to healthy skin and trition and vitamin supplement product looking to deliver formulation strategies that maximize the healthy hair.” line, which he launched last fall. water’s movement across skin,” To help with the hydration process beyond the surface “As a mom and part-time model, I’ve said Shekhar Mitra, vice presi- level of the skin, the company has adjusted the for- always been around beauty and wanted dent of global research and de- mulas of a number of its products — select items to create something that would take care velopment for personal beauty Some of from Cover Girl, Oil of Olay, Pantene and the Secret of my needs,” said Flavin-Stallone. at Procter & Gamble. Procter & brands. In order to “synergize the number of in- According to industry sources, the bil- Inspired by aquaporins, Gamble’s gredients” in those brands, the company has lion-dollar company is estimated to bring natural proteins that are found products. maximized the effects of glycerin, petrolatum, in $200 million in sales over the next in the body and channel an as- niacinamide and amino acids. For hair, P&G three years with the new Seriesse brand. sortment of molecules through has devised a special combination of surfac- With 13 items for the eyes, face and the body, such as water, the tants, silicones and polymer gel matrix. lips, the new mineral S.I. Color col- new science is designed to The products with Aquacurrent Science lection is designed to work on all skin work with the natural proper- will be shipping over the course of the sum- tones. Featuring blushers, lip color ties of water to help the move- mer beginning in late May and fully avail- and liners, eye shadows and liners, the ment of moisture. To help mea- able by August. New items that will be avail- products range from neutral to classic sure the concentration of water able include Regenerist Reversal Foaming tones. While Serious Skin Care will in the skin’s levels beyond the and Deep Hydrating Mousse still be sold on HSN, S.I. Color will be surface layer, the company , Quench Deep Moisture Body sold through Seriesse International uses a laser-based measure- Lotion & Mousse and Olay Ribbons Body sales representatives as well as online ment called confocal Raman Wash, in addition to Secret Flawless Touch at seriesse.com. Items will retail from microspectroscopy. with Olay deodorant. $16.50 to $32.50. “Water is in constant move-

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY — Michelle Edgar — M.E. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 WWD.COM The HBA Report WWD.COM Natural Products Expo Attracts Record Numbers By Kavita Daswani January with more products slated for July — contains pomegranate oil, known for its antioxidant effects. ANAHEIM, Calif. — With the natural and organic prod- “We also use para cress extract, a plant-based in- Report Reveals Cancer Risk ucts industry now generating about $57 billion a year in gredient that acts as a mild relaxant,” said Celeste the U.S., attendance at the recent Natural Products Expo Lutrario, the brand’s head of research and develop- ANAHEIM, Calif. — There might have been West was at a record high. ment. “It helps diminish the appearance of fi ne lines plenty of new products at the Natural Products The annual event held here at the Anaheim and wrinkles.” Expo West, but all the buzz at the show was about Convention Center from March 13 through March 16, Also from Burt’s Bees is the Naturally Nourishing line. something called 1,4-Dioxane. drew more than 52,000 visitors during its three-day Its products — including hand soap, body bar and body In a report made public at the expo on run, topping last year’s 47,000 attendees. Also on hand wash — are based on milk, shea butter and saffl ower oil, March 14, numerous products from some of were more than 3,000 exhibitors showcasing every- but Lutrario said a new technique allows the proteins in the best-known organic-natural thing from organic beef to min- the oil to remain unbroken, inten- and household cleaning lines were shown to eral makeup and all-natural ho- sifying the moisture benefi ts. contain 1,4-Dioxane, a chemical known to be meopathic remedies. Already available in Europe, carcinogenic. The toxin is a by-product of “It’s been phenomenal,” said the Dr. Hauschka Holistic Home ethoxylation, a process used by some com- Crissy Leatham, director of Remedies collection ships this panies to mollify certain harsh ingredients. sales and marketing for the line month, offering eight homeopath- The petrochemical ethylene oxide is re- Green by Nature, which bowed ic remedies for conditions ranging quired for ethoxylation, and this generates last month. “There’s so much from a cold and sore throat to var- 1,4-Dioxane. interest in this category from icose veins. Topical applications “This is a wake-up call for health-minded all types of retailers.” Green by include the Ouch! Aid Arnica consumers across the U.S. who thought they Nature encompasses body wash- Compress, a Calendula Wound were buying quality products at their natural es and scrubs, hand cream and Cleanser and a Mercurialis Wound food store,” said Ronnie Cummins, executive di- lip butters and glazes. The event Clockwise from top: Alba and Avalon Organics items; Rescue. Jill Price Marshall, public rector of the Organic Consumers Association, a is increasingly seen as a place dietician Keri Glassman; new Burt’s Bees products. relations manager for the German- nationwide network of some 500,000 consumers to introduce new labels and based brand, which has its U.S. of organic products. “There’s a lot of dishonest product lines, given the preva- headquarters in South Deerfi eld, labeling going on out there.” lence of buyers from across the Mass., said “The green market is The study was commissioned and funded by retail spectrum ranging from expanding across the board.” She the OCA, based on testing done at a California specialty health food stores to added that more products will be laboratory over a recent nine-month period. mass retailers. rolled out in August, including In conjunction with environmental health con- “The awareness is on a much a series of Intensive Treatment sumer advocate and author David Steinman, greater level now,” said Keri items designed to be used over the OCA tested 100 popular products from Glassman, a New York-based reg- a 28-day period. There will also major brands such as Aubrey Organics, Kiss istered dietitian who earlier this be products for mature skin and My Face, Seventh Generation and Ecco Bella. month introduced Skin Appetit to color cosmetics. Products ranged from and deodor- about 14,000 drugstore doors, in- Cosmetics appear to be a grow- ant sticks to bath gels, baby bubble baths and

cluding Rite-Aid and Walgreens. HEIDI GIBBS PHOTOS BY ing category for many organic- all-purpose household cleaners. Items that The skin care line’s fi ve prod- based brands. Aubrey Organics, came out as having no detectable 1,4-Dioxane ucts, priced at $14.99 each, incorporate Glassman’s funda- the Tampa, Fla.-based hair, skin and body care label, is included all those tested from Avalon mental diet principles: super foods such as blueberries, rolling out a cosmetics line later this March. “We are now Organics, Burt’s Bees, Desert Essence, Aubrey yogurt and wild honey should not just be eaten every day, a full-range personal care line,” said Karen Ress, the Organics and Dr. Bronner’s. But labels such as but also topically applied in the form of products like fi rm’s director of national sales. JASON, Giovanni, Kiss My Face and 365 — the her Detoxifying Nutri-Cleanser, a Nutri-Collagen Daily Executives at natural products fi rms plan to grow the private label from Whole Foods Market — had Moisturizer and Optim-Eyes Firming Eye Gel. “We will children’s market, as well. “There’s a lot for babies, but products found to contain varying degrees of also be launching a dry oil spray later this year, and other not much for older children,” said Angella Green, brand the contaminant. products are in the works,” said Glassman. manager at Petaluma, Calif.-based Hain Celestial Group, “My main objective was to give people Also at the expo was Burt’s Bees, the Durham, N.C.- which owns brands such as Avalon Organics, Jason, Alba information that was accountable and that based business that recently teamed with Aubrey Organics, Botanica and Zia Natural Skincare. would empower them to make smart choices,” California Baby, Farmaesthetics and Trilogy Fragrances The 10 stockkeeping units in the Jason Kids Only! is said Steinman. Inc. to spearhead the Natural Standard and Seal, a univer- slated to launch in June, and will include Foaming Hand Brands contacted in the wake of the study said sal standard for ingredients in natural personal care prod- Soap, a shampoo and conditioner and a bath gel. Also they would start reevaluating their formulas. ucts. The product seal confi rms that the formula is made scheduled for a September drop is the Jason Enzyme “We are concerned [by the report],” said from at least 95 percent natural ingredients and that it has Brightening Powersmile, a teeth whitening system that Lisa Lehndorff, director of corporate consumer not undergone any processes to adversely affect the purity uses papaya and pineapple enzymes, tea tree, neem and relations at the Hain Celestial Group, which of the ingredient. peppermint oils and silica and baking soda in place of owns brands such as JASON, Alba and Avalon The company was also using the expo as a platform for fl uoride, sulfates and propylene glycol. The company also Organics. “We are committed to providing our a new line of products directed toward more mature skin, plans to extend Avalon Organics with an olive and grape customers with the highest-quality, safest and a fi rst in its extensive repertoire. The Naturally Ageless seed-based line, and its Alba Botanica brand with Very effective personal care products, and, as such, line, which is housed in dark red and white packaging in- Emollient Body Lotion Bronzing Formulas. “They pro- are investigating these fi ndings and reviewing stead of the brand’s signature yellow and white, includes vide daily moisturizing and double as a self-tanner but our formulations accordingly.” a Day Lotion, Eye Crème, Night Crème and Serum, each without all the harsh chemicals,” said brand manager — K.D. priced at $24.99. The line — which began rolling out in Christa Skov. Kim Vo Salon Opens in Mirage Hotel im Vo is aiming to change the face — and hair — of Las Vegas. sophistication and is all about K Vo, who offi cially launched his namesake salon earlier this month at the blowouts. “Everyone told me Mirage Hotel and Casino, has become part of a small crop of recognized salon blow-dry, nails and makeup personalities that have set up shop in the city of excess. The Las Vegas location are going to be my main in- is the third salon the Vietnam-born color specialist is involved in, with one being come,” he recounted. “It has B2V in West Hollywood., Calif., and another in Beverly Hills at the penthouse of been the opposite.” He esti- the Sonya Dakar Skin Clinic. mated that color services have “I am on my honeymoon,” said Vo, referring to his partnership with the Mirage, increased 80 percent from the which holds a majority stake in the salon that is operated separately from the salon’s prior incarnation. (Vo hotel-casino. “It is the most fantastic marriage. I feel like a spoiled child because took over an existing salon, Inside Kim Vo’s Las Vegas salon. everything I wanted, they gave to me.” which was owned and run by Even before this salon opened, Vo had considerable experience with the Las the casino.) Vegas hair scene, having worked at Privé with Las Vegas salon stalwart Michael To satisfy the expectations of his L.A. clients visiting Las Vegas, Vo created a Boychuck when Laurent Dufourg opened a now closed outpost at the Bellagio. 5,000-square-foot destination salon. Designed by Architropolis, the salon features Several years ago, Vo started seriously discussing entering Las Vegas himself and an expansive glass storefront and a color palette of black, charcoal, taupe, white even had a close call with Planet Hollywood when it operated as the Aladdin. “It and silver. Key retail brands include Kérastase and Vo’s own line, which was un- wasn’t the right time,” he said of that pairing. veiled last January at Barneys New York. Ultimately, Vo became convinced he could succeed in Las Vegas after designer Vo’s goal is to reach $5 million in fi rst-year revenues, although he more con- stores planted themselves there — and it didn’t hurt that the Mirage was willing to servatively predicts that it will generate $2.5 million to $3 million. Hair service put up millions to design a smashing salon. “When luxury is built up with gorgeous prices range from $65 for a blow-dry to $75 for a women’s haircut and $170 for full Chanel dresses and Marc Jacobs dresses, you want to look great,” he said, speaking of highlights. cost $40, makeup $70 and brow-shaping $25. the Las Vegas crowd. “It is a natural fl ow to go for high-end salons.” “I really wanted to bring a piece of Beverly Hills there,” he said. “People But Vo heard many voices telling him that extending his brand could be bad have responded.” for his L.A. salons. Others warned him that the hair business in Las Vegas lacks — Rachel Brown WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 9 WWD.COM DVF to Launch Resort Line in Italy Versace Helicopters Take Off PARIS — Diane von Furstenberg is the latest designer to take a resort collection to the runway — and overseas. Von Furstenberg plans to unveil a new line of travel-oriented clothes in Florence on June 18 at the invitation of the city and trade show organizer Pitti Immagine, which last January introduced a women’s wear showcase focused on precollections. In Paris this week to unveil a new watch she de- signed with Brazilian jeweler H. Stern, the designer said her show would take place at a spectacular pri- vate home in the center of Florence that boasts a “ro- mantic” 14-acre garden. The show will be followed by a dinner. Titled “Hotel Life,” the collection will be “season- By Luisa Zargani less, very travel-oriented, whether you’re going to Aspen or St. Barth’s,” she said. “I will reinforce more VERGIATE, Italy — A year after an- and more that positioning — for the woman on the go.” nouncing an agreement to design The second edition of Pitti W-Woman Precollection customized helicopters with Italy’s — concurrent with the men’s fair Pitti Uomo — runs AgustaWestland, Versace unveiled its June 18 to 21. first two choppers here on Thursday. The Florence event comes at a time of rapid expan- But that wasn’t the only big news sion for von Furstenberg in Europe. Roughly half the out of the company on Thursday: DVF business comes from international sales and the The fi rm’s chairman, Santo Versace, company recently opened boutiques in Paris, London, confi rmed that he is gearing up to PHOTOS BY DAVE YODER DAVE PHOTOS BY Madrid, Brussels, Moscow and Saint-Tropez, France. enter the political arena with for- Bruno Zago inside his helicopter. One of the DVF The designer plans to officially fete her two mer Italian prime minister Silvio watches for H. Stern. Moscow locations in May. Also slated to open this year Berlusconi, who’s hoping to get back into power in next month’s election. are locations in Athens, Delhi, Beijing and Macau. Santo Versace is running for Parliament as a candidate in Berlusconi’s Erin O’Connor and Earlier this week, von Furstenberg opened party, Partito delle Libertà (Freedom Party), for the city of Reggio Calabria, in Nadja Auermann. the doors to her chic Left Bank apartment to the southern region of Calabria, from which the Versaces hail. Versace’s elec- unveil her new watch to the likes of Christian tion doesn’t depend on whether Berlusconi wins, but rather on the number Louboutin, Daphne Guinness, Betty Catroux, Erin of votes the Freedom Party score in Reggio. A socialist at heart, Versace has O’Connor, Nadja Auermann, Roland Mouret and increasingly become more vocal on matters concerning social issues and has “Transformers” actress Rachael Taylor. often urged his peers to shake up the political status quo. Von Furstenberg fi rst collaborated with H. Stern a As for the helicopter, it was launched in the presence of Versace chief ex- few years back on a jewelry line. ecutive offi cer Giancarlo Di Risio, who fl ew in directly from New York’s launch “It’s been a great success and watches were the of the brand’s men’s wear at Barneys New York. “This is an important chal- next legitimate step,” said Roberto Stern, H. Stern’s lenge for us, a symbol of Italian excellence, and carries us to the new frontiers president. “Diane makes creativity look so simple. of luxury — always higher,” said Di Risio. She makes the appeal of jewelry The two owners of the helicopters chose to forgo anonymity and agreed universal and she knows how to to participate at the offi cial ceremony organized to present the choppers at push the limits.” AgustaWestland’s Italian plant. Former tennis ace Ion Tiriac, one of Romania’s For the watch line, richest entrepreneurs, was handed the keys to his three-ton, six-seat black and which is called the Sutra, white AgustaWestland “Grand,” decorated with Versace’s Greek iconic frieze von Furstenberg elabo- motif trim on the sides and furnished with the brand’s plush leather seats. Diane von rated on an oversize gem Tiriac, who owns two other AgustaWestland choppers and regularly wears Furstenberg theme that she already Versace, described his latest purchase as “pure class.” So much so that he said employed in the H. Stern he plans to ask Versace to provide the brand’s Home designs for his next proj- jewelry collection, giving ect: a 600-apartment residential site in Bucharest, Romania. the timepiece’s crystal The other customer, Bruno Zago, is the founder of one of Italy’s main paper multiple asymmetrical manufacturers, Pro-Gest, which counts 12 plants around the country. He took facets. It has a three-times- control of his AW 109 Power chopper, which has discreet gray-hued Versace in- around wrist strap and teriors. “Although I use it for work reasons, I appreciate the beauty of Versace’s comes in various materials in- design,” said Zago, wearing one of the exclusive ties featuring tiny choppers cluding titanium and gold pavéed put out by the company for the occasion. with diamonds. Retailing upward of $5 million, the helicopters have a life of about 100,000 There are two wristwatch sizes and a pen- hours of fl ight, and can travel from Milan to London with one stop for fuel. dant version, which can be worn on a neck- Customization may include gold handles and security belts, plasma TVs and lace or attached to a bracelet. Retail prices fl ying offi ce facilities complete with computers and telephones. range from about $1,400 to $9,000. The watch- AgustaWestland has manufacturing plants in Vergiate, an hour from Milan; es will be available starting in September. Yeovil, England, and Philadelphia. With a yearly production of about 190 Von Furstenberg said she wanted the helicopters and sales of almost 3 billion euros, or $4.3 billion, the company watch to communicate “positive energy” provides choppers for military and civilian outlets, including Ferrari and the and that inside of each strap would be en- German publishing fi rm Burda. graved her personal sutras — or meditation In addition to this collaboration, Versace has linked with Techniques Christian Louboutin, Roland aphorisms — such as love, health and hap- d’Avant Gard to personalize private planes and with Lamborghini to decorate Mouret and Daphne Guinness. piness. “It’s time to feel good,” she said. cars. The fi rst Versace Airbus 380 will be delivered by yearend.

PHOTOS BY DAVID ATLAN DAVID PHOTOS BY — Miles Socha and Robert Murphy

Since resigning from Chloé to devote time the hospital. Toasting him at the United to her two young children, Philo has done Nations, the venue for the cocktail party, consulting work at Gap in Europe while will be a crowd expected to include Elie plotting a possible comeback. Wiesel, Ron Perelman, Henry Kissinger, Nat Fashion Scoops Rothschild, Oscar de la Renta and Mayor FIRST THINGS FIRST: All eyes will be on Michael Bloomberg, as well as the younger NOT SO FORBIDDEN: Yohji Yamamoto’s fashion event: The Tai Miao imperial family gardens French First Lady Carla Bruni-Sarkozy next set, including Stavros Niarchos and Alexandra show in China next month could top even on the outer edge of the Forbidden City — week when she and President Nicolas and Theodora Richards. Fendi’s on the Great Wall. The Japanese where Yamamoto’s show is scheduled — were Sarkozy pay a state visit to the U.K. as designer will show on April 24 in Beijing’s most recently used for a runway show in the guests of the Queen at Windsor Castle. A STEP IN TIME: While the buzz continues to Forbidden City, according to sources, which ninth season of “America’s Next Top Model.” Bets are on in Paris that Christian Dior mount that 6267 duo Tommaso Aquilano and is certain to stir some controversy, given and Chanel will be among the labels the Roberto Rimondi are the lead candidates to it’s another example of China renting out PHILO FACTS?: Speculation is heating up in pop singer and former model will wear replace Lars Nilsson at Ferré, an IT Holding its most important historic monuments. Europe that Phoebe Philo, out of the spotlight during a busy program that includes a Group spokeswoman said intentions are to On top of that, China-Japan relations have since she exited Chloé two years ago, is state banquet; a lunch with her English face the issue calmly. “This is certainly a been rocky for decades. But in an effort to hungry for a deal that would get her back in counterpart, Sarah Brown, wife of British priority but we want to take our time and defuse potential China-Japan tension over the fashion game. Sources said the London- Prime Minister Gordon Brown, and a visit to think things out in a pondered manner. the event, Yamamoto is organizing the show based designer has recently been in talks the Old Royal Naval College. Nothing has been decided yet,” she said, in collaboration with the Chinese government with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton adding the fall collection — designed by and will use the occasion as a personal about a collaboration, possibly a signature LAPO’S NEW GIG: On Wednesday night, Fiat an in-house team — had received positive apology to the Chinese people for Japan’s collection or a design role at Celine. The heir Lapo Elkann, founder of luxury fashion feedback from retailers. According to atrocities during its World War II invasion, likelihood of a deal could not be learned, company Italia Independent, will be feted sources, unlike with Nilsson’s appointment, according to a spokesman. The event also but it is understood Philo’s salary and other in New York for his new position as global this time around Tonino Perna, IT Holding will include the unveiling of a fellowship demands have been stumbling blocks in special ambassador of Sheba Medical Center Group chairman, wants to decide on his own from the Yohji Yamamoto Fund for Peace to talks with LVMH — and previously with other rehabilitation hospital in Tel Hashomer, rather than be infl uenced by top fashion sponsor a Chinese designer to study in Japan potential partners, including Compagnie Israel. It’s a defi nite change in direction editors. And it’s not like he doesn’t know the or Europe for two years. Financière Richemont. Offi cials at Celine for the one-time party boy and sometime 6267 team: The duo also has been pivotal This is not the fi rst time the Forbidden and LVMH declined comment on Thursday, Vogue model. In his new position, Elkann in the relaunch of Malo, which is owned by City has been the backdrop for a fashion and Philo could not be reached for comment. will act as a fund-raiser and spokesman for IT Holding.

FINALISTS, PROMOTE YOUR WIN! FINALIST SEALS ARE AVAILABLE FOR YOUR WEBSITE, COLLATERAL AND IN-STORE MARKETING. CONTACT [email protected]

CATEGORIES DEFINED BY: BALLOTS TABULATED BY: 12 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 WWD.COM Media/Advertising

foreshadow tough times ahead for another The modeling agency will advise its stable spin-off of the gossip brand, Page Six The of 120 girls on diet and health, personal New York & Co. Magazine? The weekly glossy was launched in fi nance and wealth management through MEMO PAD September (before the brunt of the economic partnerships with Barclays Wealth, organic downturn was felt) with a total of 96 pages in food manufacturer Organic Pharmacy and Profi t Down 71% AT LAST: Karl Templer has fi nally signed on to the debut issue. Editor in chief Margi Conklin Pilates fi rm Core Power Pilates. Bookers be creative director at Interview. Templer, acknowledged to WWD at the time that the themselves also will have more time to focus In Fourth Quarter who styled a Bruce Weber photo essay on size would drop to “around 68 pages going on their girls, with each booker managing New Orleans for April’s W, fi nalized the forward.” Last weekend’s issue carried 48 about 20 girls. Additionally, Quintessentially espite a 71.4 percent deal to join the magazine Thursday. WWD pages, though Mercedes-Benz did advertise Models will not accept girls that are size Ddecrease in fourth- reported early this month that Templer was on the back cover. So could the spin-off zero, and will maintain an ethnically diverse quarter profits, shares of in talks to join Interview, but he had to sever be closed? Col Allen, editor in chief of the cast of models. Renton will sign girls as New York & Company Inc. relationships with several magazines in the New York Post, downplayed the notion as young as age 16, but will organize them soared because investors U.S. in order to take the job. A spokeswoman preposterous: “No way. You wish.” — S. D.S. in a division called Next Generation. “We liked the retailer’s busi- for Interview said Templer will continue to want them to have longevity,” explained ness plan for 2008. work with his fashion clients and select HIS VERY OWN STEW: Conan O’Brien’s request Renton. And Renton won’t end contracts The company said it editorials. He will join Interview in June, but has been granted. After spending the last when a model gets her fi rst gray hair. “At the would reduce inventory will consult on earlier issues. two nights talking about the St. Patrick’s moment our oldest model is 45. That’s not and improve on its fashion Interview also appointed Rebecca Sinn as Day stew recipe that was printed in Good an age cap. I have a woman who came to see offerings. Investors sent entertainment editor, a new position. Sinn Housekeeping, Rosemary Ellis, editor in chief me who’s near 60.” None of the models have shares of the retailer up was most recently talent director for the Web of the magazine, decided to make amends booked campaigns or walked in any of the 20.68 percent to close at site Fifth Medium and was formerly features through an appearance on “Late Night with major shows this season (the fi rm hatched $5.72 in trading Thursday associate of Vanity Fair. Conan O’Brien” on Thursday night. Ellis around the time of the fall collections), but on the Big Board. Meanwhile, September may be the offi cial personally delivered the stew to O’Brien, who the girls who have signed have worked for For the three months relaunch of the title under co-editorial made it “more Irish” by adding Lucky Charms, clients including Brazilian Vogue, Grazia, Oil ended Feb. 2, fourth- directors Glenn O’Brien and Fabien Baron, but in Jameson and Guinness. Ellis also presented of Olay and Lancôme. — S.D.S. quarter earnings fell to the meantime the fi rst cover of the post-Ingrid the show host with a lifetime subscription $6.9 million, or 11 cents Sischy and Sandy Brant era will feature Maggie to the magazine, putting his face on a mock LETTER FROM LONDON: While Thursday marked a diluted share, from $24 Gyllenhaal. For the May cover, the actress was cover. — A.W. the opening of Acne Jeans stores in both million, or 40 cents, in the shot in London (since she was on location Paris and New York, Wednesday saw the year-ago period. Sales fell there for a fi lm) by photographer Bryan Adams. PRETTY GOOD GUIDANCE: The modeling industry multidisciplinary Swedish brand launch its 4.7 percent to $359.4 mil- A spokeswoman said this is Gyllenhaal’s has faced such a backlash from the number magazine, Acne Paper, in the ballroom of lion from $377.3 million, fi rst cover for the magazine. Sources said of toothpick-thin models on the runway that London’s Claridge’s Hotel. The Champagne- while total same-store Interview fi rst asked Terry Richardson to even Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour voiced fueled event, complete with a turbaned sales fell 3.5 percent. do the shoot, but he was too busy. The her frustration in her April editor’s letter, Tabla player providing background music, For the full-year period, spokeswoman said she didn’t know anything describing the models during the New York drew a hipster crowd including Chrissie the company posted a loss about whether Richardson was asked. The fall collections as “pale and thin, entirely Hynde, Henry Holland, Liberty Ross and Daisy de of $4.9 million, or 8 cents a May issue hits newsstands the week of April lacking in the joyfulness and charm that Villeneuve, many of whom were clad in the diluted share, against prof- 21. — Stephanie D. Smith and Amy Wicks once defi ned the supermodels.” But Eleni label’s signature drainpipe jeans. “I think its of $46.2 million, or 77 Renton wants to ensure young pretties have a it was important for us to do something in cents, last year. Sales grew DEEPING SIX: Even Page Six is being affected healthier sense of self on the runways. The London, it’s such a stimulating and creative 3.6 percent to $1.19 billion by the sagging economy — the New York longtime model booker oversees modeling city,” said Thomas Persson, editor in chief of from $1.15 billion. Post has shuttered pagesix.com after three agency Quintessentially Models, a division of Acne Paper, who had chosen exoticism as its The company ended the months in operation. “Given the diffi culty luxury lifestyle group Quintessentially. theme for spring. “It was really interesting year with $73.7 million in in the economy, it was not the right time The agency, which launched last month, to explore — exoticism used to be about cash and reduced its debt. for this launch,” said Jennifer Jehn, senior will give models access to a network of newness, but now we can Google everything, “We continue to see vice president of pagesix.com. A total of nutritionists, personal trainers and fi nancial so it’s different from the past,” added strength in our wear-to- 18 editorial and support staffers will be let advisers. “I don’t want to see unhealthy girls Persson. And Persson said the brand is so work categories. We began go, but three employees will be reassigned anymore,” said Renton. “Even if it’s just baby enamored of London, an Acne jeans store for to see improved product within the Post. steps to making a difference, that’s where I the city is in the works, with posh Mayfair a offerings in our acces- But does the closure of pagesix.com want to be.” possible location. — Nina Jones sory assortment, and our e-commerce business con- tinued to grow and exceed plans. Finally, we are very disciplined in managing our inventory and ex- Dillard’s Sets Moves After Profit Drop penses,” Richard Crystal, chairman and chief execu- illard’s Inc. plans to continue to close stores and tweak its mer- Barington Capital Group this week said it and an investor group tive offi cer, said. Dchandise mix after lackluster sales led to a 69.5 percent drop in would try to fi ll four slots on the fi rm’s 12-person board at the re- Increased fashion of- fourth-quarter earnings. tailer’s annual meeting in May. The Dillard family, which controls ferings in the wear-to- The retailer said on Thursday that profi ts for the three months the fi rm’s Class B shares, fi lls the other eight slots. work and dress businesses ended Feb. 2 fell to $47.3 million, or 63 cents a diluted share, com- Southeastern Asset Management, which holds about 12.9 percent resulted in positive comps pared with $155 million, or $1.90, a year ago. Revenues decreased of the fi rm’s Class A stock, said it had spoken with the Little Rock, for the year, while the 9.4 percent to $2.21 billion from $2.44 billion, which includes a 9.7 Ark.-based fi rm “regarding opportunities to build the value of the launch of the company’s percent decline in sales to $2.16 billion. company for all shareholders.” e-commerce site brought For all of 2007, profi ts fell 78.1 percent to $53.8 million, or 68 cents Dillard’s already said it would close a distribution center and in $22 million in sales a diluted share, on a 5.6 percent drop in revenues to $7.37 billion. three stores. The retailer said it plans to continue to buy its own during the fi rst full year of Sales for the year also fell by 5.6 percent to $7.21 billion. stock, after picking up $111.6 million worth of Class A shares last operation. “We remain committed to strengthening our appeal to aspiration- year. “The company is al and contemporary shoppers to set Dillard’s apart in the market- Dillard’s has been increasing its focus on exclusive merchandise, pleased with their March place,” said chief executive offi cer William Dillard 2nd. which made up 24.2 percent of its offering last year, up from 23.8 floor set and are expe- Dillard’s has also been pressured by activist investors who want percent the year before. riencing an upswing in the company to boost profi ts. — Evan Clark accessories, which had been killing them in the past.” Mark Montagna, re- tail analyst at C.L. King & Associates, said. “I didn’t see any negative trends, Lundgren, Farah Headline Retail Parley in Arizona that in itself is a positive.” As of Feb. 2 the compa- op retailers, technology experts, au- graduate of the University of Arizona, and president and ceo Sean E. Feeney; Jan ny completed the closure Tthors and economists will converge at Carl E. Steidtmann, chief economist with de Jong, Microsoft’s worldwide retail in- of its JasmineSola stores. the Global Retailing Conference, April 10 Deloitte Research, discussing “the consum- dustry solutions manager; Christophe The chain posted a loss of and 11, at Loews Ventana Canyon Resort in er-driven recession.” Heurtevent, marketing director, Microsoft $4.3 million, or 7 cents a Tucson, Ariz. Zappos.com ceo Tony Hsieh will itemize France, and Marc Ecko, chairman and ceo diluted share, in the fourth The conference, themed “Brand New the “top 10 lessons learned in e-commerce” of Marc Ecko Enterprises. quarter. Thinking: The Innovation Leaders,” is or- and Roger Farah, president and chief op- The Terry J. Lundgren Center for New York & Co. fore- ganized by the Terry J. Lundgren Center for erating offi cer of Polo Ralph Lauren, will Retailing is part of the University of cast negative low- to mid- Retailing at the University of Arizona. kick off the program discussing developing Arizona’s John and Doris Norton School of single-digit comps for the “Our goal is to provide attendees with a global brand in Europe. Family and Consumer Sciences. first quarter, and earn- access to technology, marketing and busi- David Ginsberg, vice president, SAP Just three days before the start of the ings in the range of 4 to ness ideas that are changing the face of Industry Solutions, will tackle “balancing conference, Lundgren will receive the 8 cents a diluted share. retail worldwide,” said Melinda Burke, ex- fi nancial performance with shopper needs,” Carnegie Hall Medal of Excellence at a For the year the company ecutive director of the center. and Daria Myers, president of Origins gala benefi t at The Waldorf-Astoria in New expects earnings between On the agenda: keynoter Terry J. Natural Resources, will speak on “sustain- York. The award, which will be presented 42 cents and 52 cents a di- Lundgren, chairman, president and chief able innovation: doing well by doing good.” to Lundgren by Mayor Michael Bloomberg, luted share. executive officer of Macy’s Inc., and a Other speakers scheduled are Inovis recognizes leadership in arts philanthropy. — Jeanine Poggi WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 13 WWD.COM Concrete Thinking

BERLIN — While there’s a lot to be said for concrete, That also meant being practical. The fi rst step was “appetizing” is usually not a word that springs to mind. Or to come up with a formula that allowed her to create at least not until Alexa Lixfeld began experimenting with 2-millimeter-thin walls. The second involved trying out its composition in order to convert the sturdy building different casts for a more attractive and shiny surface, and material into thin-walled tableware. the third was to fi nd a special surface treatment to prevent What started as a graduation project from the scratching and staining. Cologne International School of Design in 2006 has The fi rst set of bowls look hand-formed and don’t hide since garnered Lixfeld the 2007 IF Concept Award for their concrete origins, while the second series of plates Material and presentations at the Hamburg Museum and bowls are elegantly thin, lustrous and white, with a of Arts & Crafts, Ambiente in Frankfurt, Design Mai in decorative crack in the center. She offers both, enjoying Berlin, London Design Week and Tokyo Design Week. the contrast in textures, and the one-of-a-kind pieces Under the trademarked name of Creacrete, she will retail from around $85 to $450 in selected design and bring her concrete tableware collection to Milan’s Salon museum stores. She also makes shiny Creacrete tiles and Internationale del Mobile this April. would love to outfi t an entire Creacrete bathroom, from For Lixfeld, tableware is “like architecture — a skyline sink to accessories. on your table.” The 36-year-old Hamburg-based designer But Lixfeld also enjoys working with wanted to reinterpret it in an unusual and what at fi rst porcelain and has begun experimenting seemed an impossible material. Lixfeld admits she wasn’t with free-form computer-aided design, particularly fond of concrete at fi rst. “It’s porous, dull, a which she is using to create a tree somehow masculine material: rough, tough, heavy and house installed with an aero gel used in bulky. I thought if I’m to work with it, I want to change it. spacecraft, so “it’s not harsh on the tree,” Push it to the borders and put my aesthetic — a female she noted. Alexa Lixfeld’s aesthetic — into it.” — Melissa Drier concrete tableware. Top Chefs Dish It Out Kessler’s Historic Hotels rom roughing it in the Colorado wilderness to ghost hunting in Gothic By Chantal Goupil Fmansions in Savannah, Ga., Richard Kessler believes in giving guests the “authentic experience” of a place. PARIS — Some of Europe’s most renowned A former chief executive offi cer of Day’s Inn — he helped Cecil Day chefs are adding industrial design to their build the chain before selling it in 1984 — Kessler is now president and repertoires, creating tableware to augment ceo of Orlando, Fla.-based Kessler Collection Hotels. Convinced travelers, their favorite concoctions from the kitchen. especially in the luxury market, wanted more than a cookie-cutter hotel ex- Yannick Alleno, the 38-year-old three- perience, he launched his concept of “themed” hotels in the mid-Nineties. star chef at the Meurice here, cast his eye Starting with a handful of properties in Florida and Georgia, Kessler on the hotel’s dining room and felt a need developed nine hotels of his own and no two are alike. Several, like to fi ll the emptiness in front of guests before Mansion on Forsyth Park in Savannah, and the Casa Monica Hotel in St. the fi rst dish is served and between courses. Augustine, Fla., both built in 1888, are restored historic landmarks. Next “Tableware has not evolved in terms of prac- in line is the Bohemian Hotel at Biltmore Village, which will resemble ticality,” he said. an English Tudor hunting lodge with European-style ballrooms, and will So he created a reversible porcelain ring: open in November 2008 near the historic district of the Biltmore Estate, the deep bronze on one side, bright gold on the In.gredienti by Massimiliano Alajmo. 125,000-acre spread completed in 1895 for George Vanderbilt in Asheville, other. It remains on the table as a dock- N.C. Richard Morris Hunt modeled the house on three 16th-century French ing station for the white porcelain serving châteaux and Frederick Law Olmsted designed the grounds. plates, etched with the chef ’s initials. The Kessler’s next move will be to introduce resorts in the Austrian Alps, Jean-François Piège’s dessert set. design, called Onde, fi ts with a new contem- the Czech Republic and other former Eastern Bloc countries. His fi rst porary decor by Philippe Starck. European offi ce, a Vienna outpost, opened in August. The chef worked with the porcelain house He already manages St. Catherine’s Court in Bath, England, an estate Coquet, where Onde will be sold starting in built in 950 A.D. that is owned by actress Jane Seymour and her husband, July. fi lm producer James Keach, which is available for private rentals. At the Crillon, two-star chef Jean- Last fall, Kessler Canyon, a 23,000-acre wilderness retreat, opened in François Piège designed a dessert set with De Beque, Colo. For around $500 to $600 a day, guests can channel Ernest Bernardaud exclusively for his restaurant, Hemingway by fi shing and hunting, or just practicing their aim with clay tar- Ambassadeur. It consists of a round plate get shooting. Another one of his properties, the El Monte Sagrado in Taos, with a colorful center, used as a support for a N.M., where spa treatments and decor are inspired by Native American ritu- square porcelain dessert plate — or a coffee als and artwork, doubled its space in September. cup. The playful, contemporary dishes are Kessler said preserving history without lapsing into “ho-hum and accentuated by matching dessert silverware stuffy” is a challenge, but one he meets by adding modern, even whim- to tuck into signature sweets like a vacherin sical elements. At Savannah’s Mansion on Forsyth Park, which opened made with rose, litchi and wild strawber- in 2005, classic Greek marble statues and crystal chandeliers are juxta- ries. posed with crushed velvet furnishings in a chartreuse and fuchsia color “It’s consistency; my culinary expres- scheme. Elevators are thick white marble slabs, dimly lit, lined with a sion goes all the way,” said Piège, 37, who heavy black velvet curtain and a single fl ower fi xture, evoking Savannah’s worked on the set for two years and is de- fascination with cemeteries and the building’s former incarnation as a signing new shapes. funeral home. Meanwhile, Massimiliano Alajmo, the Although each hotel has its own identity, art and music provide a com- youngest European chef to receive a third mon thread for all of the properties. On-site art galleries include works Michelin star at age 32 in 2006, loves the idea from Kessler’s 3,000-plus collection, and music rooms offer music per- of tailor-made dishes. His collection, called formed on rare Bosendorfer grand pianos. In.gredienti, includes more than a dozen vari- In the next few years, Kessler’s plans call for new hotels on River Street ations, each named after the dish in Savannah and a Grand Bohemian hotel in Atlanta. for which it is most suitable. — Georgia Lee For example, Pasta is for eating Onde by long pasta, with a built-in indenta- Yannick The Bohemian Hotel at Biltmore Village will open this tion on the side for twirling it onto Alleno. fall near the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, N.C. a fork, while Riso, with its large, bulging sides and hollow middle, is designed for risotto or ravioli. “My cooking experience was the key for building the concept of the tableware,” said Alajmo, who utilized his culinary knowledge to draw the shapes and to decide on the materials and their thickness. Launched with German china maker Rosenthal, Alajmo’s dishes are sold at his three-star restau- rant Le Calandre in Padoue, Italy; in his shop, and by Rosenthal’s dis- tributors. 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For more information on Luxury Living, call Julie Azous at 212.630.4618 • [email protected] WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 21, 2008 15 WWD.COM Obituary Mervyns Taps Levi’s Exec as CEO Manufacturer Malcolm Starr By Evan Clark cupied the corner offi ce since December, when Rick Leto re- alcolm Starr, a dress manufacturer on wore his fashions,’’ said Starr’s sister, Gloria Starr NEW YORK — Mervyns tapped signed. Kurth will oversee the MSeventh Avenue for years, died Tuesday in Kins. “They were the number-one country club set John Goodman, a Levi Strauss retailer’s human resources, New Canaan, Conn., where he lived. He was 84. dresses. You would always see at least 30 percent & Co. executive, to be president legal, information technology Starr died after suffering a neck injury from a of the women in any elite country club wearing a and chief executive officer. and fi nance departments. fall at his home, his family said. Malcolm Starr.” Goodman will oversee all as- Prior to working at Levi He was introduced to fashion early in life be- Starr’s father died in 1969 and he took over the pects of the business, which is Strauss, Goodman managed cause his mother, Claire, worked as a costume de- business, located at 530 Seventh Avenue, operat- owned by Sun Capital Partners Kmart Holding Corp.’s apparel signer. The dress company he operated, Malcolm ing the company until 1976, when it was sold for Inc., along with other investors. and home business as senior Starr, was started in the Forties by his father, $7 million. Starr continued to be active produc- He was most recently president vice president and chief ap- Frank, a well-known fi gure in the textile industry. ing clothes in Hong Kong and India and wanted and general manager of Levi’s parel and home offi cer. He also During that period, the family was one of the fi rst to revive the Malcolm Starr line, but the Sept. 11 Dockers brand, a staple in held various positions at Gap to lease factories in India and China for manufac- attacks cut short that effort. Mervyns’ men’s department. Inc. and began his career in the turing, and also operated boutiques in Hong Kong In addition to the sister, Starr is survived by a and Japan. daughter, Cathy Starr Klein, and two grandchildren. “Even members of the royal family in Japan — William Cotto [Goodman’s] success at the mid- and “upper-retail tiers makes us very confi dent. Malo Set to Do Bed and Bath Line — Thomas Taylor, Mervyns” By Alessandra Ilari The collection also features bedspreads, throws “John has the credentials to Bloomingdale’s executive train- and cushions in varying sizes, and is rounded out take us to the next level,” said ing program. MILAN — Malo has embarked on a new project with a travel kit that includes a featherlight cash- Thomas Taylor, the retailer’s Sun, which recently snatched by signing a three-year licensing deal with Svad mere plaid throw, a special cushion and a mask. chairman. “His success at the up Kellwood Co. and also owns Dondi to produce and distribute home linens. Linens for yachts are also in the works and sched- mid- and upper-retail tiers ShopKo, bought Mervyns in The fi rst Malo bed and bath collection will roll uled to be released in October. makes us very confi dent we have September 2004 with the help of out in September to between 300 and 400 points of Prices for the collection still haven’t been fi nal- the right leader in place to repo- Cerberus Capital Management sale worldwide and to Malo’s 16 stores. ized. sition the company.” and Lubert-Adler and Klaff Malo sits under the IT Holding umbrella and There are plans to present Malo’s homewares Goodman takes over from Partners LP. is designed by 6267 duo Tommaso Aquilano and at the upcoming Salone del Mobile furniture fair Chuck Kurth, executive vice At that time, the company op- Roberto Rimondi. in Milan with an in-store presentation. president and interim ceo on erated 257 stores across 13 states, Highlights of the new home collection include Svad Dondi is a 50-year-old home linen special- April 7. Kurth, who will take on but the new owners have cut the cotton satin and cashmere sheets and a cotton and ist based near Mantova and the licensee for the the mantle of chief administra- retailer down to a much-slimmer cashmere bouclé bathrobe in a variety of colors. Blumarine and Blugirl home collections. tive and financial officer, oc- 175 doors in seven states.

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TECHNICAL DESIGNER Materials Inspectors Merchandising/Prod’n PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER J. Jill seeks an Associate, Product In- Asst & Sales Asst SAMPLE SPEC TECH tegrity Manager to oversee vendor Scope Apparel has immediate open- Est’d. growing ladies mfg. seeks exp’d. compliance to fabric and testing re- ings for a Merchandising/ Production individuals to join our team. Great growth quirements. Interface with raw mate- Assistant with 1-2 yrs of exp. Should potential. Fax or email resume & salary Showrooms & Lofts rial suppliers/fabric mills and vendors. be a college graduate with knowledge req. to: 212-730-5993 /[email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Ensure that quality and performance of Adobe Illustrator. Sales Assistant Upscale fragrance company standards are met. Evaluate lab test Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Administrative Asst. should have 1-3 yrs of relevant exp. seeking highly motivated, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 reports, analyze quality/testing con- Pls send resume to: [email protected] Eveningwear Co. is seeking a bright cerns. Ensure that labeling meets le- dynamic, detail-oriented enthusiastic, and organized person gal requirements. Interface with man- PLANNING DIRECTOR...... $100-125K with computer experience, Microsoft ufacturers and testing laboratories in Wal-Mart Expert candidates for the following Excel included. Opportunity to grow Far East & South America. Requires: Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 positions: with sales. Fax resume to: 212-398 -6694 BS degree or equivalent in Materials [email protected] Science, Textile Science, or Textile En- www.srisearch.com 1.) International Sales gineering, and 2 years experience as a Private Label Promotional Bag Manager (based in New textile testing specialist. Expertise Company Seeking with professional lab equipment and York, for European Markets) test methods; US legal requirements Assistant For Sales/ 2.) Accounts Receivable/ Broadway Garment Center Asst. Product Mgr for labeling and testing; as well as vari- Accounts Payable Manager NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM Established Westchester based mfg. ous textiles, textile processes and test- Product Development 3.) Sales Administrative AVAILABLE TO SHARE seeks motivated self starter to assist ing issues also required. Send resume -Energetic individual w/4-year under- Assistant Please Call Joan @ 917-907-1667 product manager. Responsibilities will to: Corporate H.R. Dept., J. Jill, 4 graduate degree or equivalent include follow up on samples, trim, Batterymarch Park, Quincy MA 02169 combination of education & exper. graphics, shipping status, etc. Great Please list Job Code: SJ224 in cover ltr. -Responsible, organized, detail- COSMETIC SALES Three years minimum opportunity for someone with 1-2 years oriented multi-tasker with strong- Upper west side up-scale apothecary fragrance experience a must. experience. E-mail or fax resume to, communication and computer skills. Excl Benefits, Incl Paid Vac, Holidays Please email resume to 914-328-7941 or [email protected] -Must be self-motivated/dead-line 401k etc seeks Retail Cosmetic sales [email protected] MERCHANDISE conscious person to sell Premium brands Send -Great opportunity for creative, yet resume: [email protected] Attn Elena PLANNER business minded person with room Only resumes with fragrance A new color cosmetic & skin care line for growth. experience will be being launched at major mass market -Knowledge of materials and fabric considered. DESIGNER retailer seeks Merchandise Planner to: good sense of color / design a plus. WOVEN/TEXTILES • Create annual and seasonal plans to Accessory background ideal. For men’s & women’s imported fabri- support stores EMAIL RESUMES TO: [email protected] cation. CAD experience helpful. Color • Inventory management including sense & styling capabilities important. merchandise planning, replenishment Able to merchandise product lines and Production Assistant 100% and analysis CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING create focused storyboards. Salary Int’l Textile Co. seeks highly motivated commensurate w/ exp. Company paid • Manage replenishment process and detail oriented person to track goods U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 reports www.sanodesignservices.com benefits. Fax resume: (212) 209-4406 or from order placement to delivery. Daily fashion E-mail to: [email protected] • Forecast sales, inventory, gross margin communication w/ overseas suppliers. and price reduction (markdowns) Computer literate, good follow-up skills. careers PATTERNS, SAMPLES, • Effectively plan inventory to drive Knowledge of textiles a +. Challenging maximum store sales & margin return support position in a friendly busy work PRODUCTIONS environment. Company paid benefits. • Measure and report inventory Please fax resume: 212-209-4406 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. GRAPHIC DESIGNER-$50-64K performance Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Immediate opening for creative graphic Independent Sales Rep designer at NYC apparel co. Work on •Prepare pre-season plans, consistent SALES REP Fiorana, a "niche" contemporary denim famous Junior dept./specialty store with company and brand goals Fast growing men’s sportswear brand company, is seeking a high energy PATTERNS, SAMPLES, line. REQ: Illust/Photo sklls, handle Must be familiar with new line launches seeks a Salesperson with established experienced ROAD WARRIOR for the print placement, CADS, themed artwork, for input on planning maximum sales relationships with major Department following territories: Southeast, PRODUCTIONS 3-5 years women’s graphic experience dollars per area square footage. and Specialty stores along with other Northeast, Mid-Atlantic Mid-West and Full service shop to the trade. in young Junior’s market. Please fax resume in confidence to channels of distribution. Fax resume South. Great opportunity to get in Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. E-mail resume: [email protected] CG: 212-977-9087 to: 626-279-1398 with fast growing company! Please (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 914-337-3660 contact Erika at [email protected]. 3>5< A > > <

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