Ribeira Sacra Wine growing in Ribeira Sacra has a ca. 5.6 million kg, 85% is Mencia. long history and was stimulated by the establishment of the first monasteries The region faces a number of challenges here in the twelfth century. Vineyards including the high maintenance costs of are located on steep slopes on both sides the road network, high production costs, of the Rios Mino and where the only an aging workforce and the difficulty of possibility for horticulture is through the finding skilled labour. Exports are tiny, use of terracing. This is a region of heroic but have received recent critical acclaim, viticulture. especially in the U.S. After a difficult few years at the start of the 21st century, wine It’s also a region of artisan wine making. producers are revitalising the region Vineyard plots are small, as are holdings which now brings in revenues of €10 per grower and operations in the ca. 100 million per annum to this rural region. It wineries. Of the D.O.’s annual harvest of looks set to have an exciting future.

W I N E S T A T S . I N F O Ribeira Sacra in Figures

INTRODUCTION Climate

The Ribeira Sacra (literally sacred riverbank) region Located upstream from the Rias Baixas and Ribeiro of is a stunningly beautiful area with a rich wine regions, Ribeira Sacra has an increased cultural heritage including Romanesque churches continental character, but the influence of the and castles. With a mountainous terrain and Atlantic is still felt, giving a temperate climate. steep river valleys, it is Ideally suited for outdoor leisure pursuits and is considered to have high Winters are not extremely cold and average tourist potential. Winegrowing here is an ancient monthly temperatures do not go below 0°C. occupation, possibly dating back to Roman times. Average summer temperatures only just reach a maximum of 30°C, although individual days may Cultivation of any sort is only possible because spike above 35°C. Lower elevations experience generations of farmers have carved narrow terraces warmer conditions and are harvested earlier than into seemingly impossibly steep valley slopes of the more elevated vineyard plots. Nights are cool and Rio and Rio Sil. Ribeira Sacra and Priorat are the diurnal variation slows ripening and encourages the only D.O. regions of which are recognised acidity retention. Rainfall is concentrated in late by CERVIM as being comprised of heroic vineyards. autumn and winter months but spring rains can This designation recognises the difficulties of result in poor flowering/fruit set as happened in practising viticulture due to steep mountain slopes 2008. and the requirement for terracing.

Lack of significant mechanisation, small vineyard plots, the difficulty of finding skilled labour and the wineries having small production volumes all contribute towards a relatively high cost base. Although it received Denominación de Origen (D.O.) status in 1979, by the early 21st century this seemed to be a wine region in decline. Recent efforts by the Galician Government have greatly improved parts of the rural infrastructure including roads and water supply. This, coupled with determined producers and greater promotion has reawakened interest in this wine region. It now appears to be on the cusp of receiving much more widespread interest and critical acclaim.

GEOGRAPHY

Vineyards are located between 200-700 m on both sides of the Rio Minho and Rio Sill and are distributed between five subzones. The challenging topography of Ribeira Sacra has come about by the uplift and erosion of igneous and metamorphic rocks which usually yield thin, coarse-grained, soils. Maintaining these soils on such steep slopes requires ongoing attention.

 Centro di Ricerche, Studi e Valorizzazione per la Viticol- tura Montana

W I N E S T A T S . I N F O 2 Ribeira Sacra in Figures

VITICULTURE

Growers

Throughout most of the 21st century the number of registered growers has remained roughly constant at between 2,600 to 2,900 growers. An increase to 3,048 growers was reported in 2012. Since the terrain consists of steep valley slopes, farming by necessity takes place on narrow terraces. This means that vineyard holdings are often split between a number of small separate plots which together with a lack of mechanisation contribute towards high production costs. The average vineyard holding is only 0.4 ha.

Grape Varietals

There are six white and six red varietals which are recommended for use according to the regulations of the Denominación de Orixe Ribeira Sacra issued in 2012. In addition, two black varietals have been authorised

Ribeira Sacra Grape Varietals Recommended Authorised White Albariño, Godello, Dona Branca, Blanca, Torrontés , Vineyard Area Black Caiño tinto, Garnacha tintureira, Brancellao, Mencia, Mouraton, The total vineyard area of Ribeira Sacra has remained Merenzao, Souson, roughly constant at ca. 1,250 ha. There are no published figures as the proportion of black and white varietals in the vineyard but, based on grape Source: Diario Oficial de Galicia, No 152 (2012) production reports, the vast majority of vines must be black varietals. Grapes Harvested & Crushed

Ribeira Sacra in 2012 The amount of grapes harvested in Ribeira Sacra has increased quite significantly during the 21st century. Vineyard area 1,276 ha From ca. 2 million kg at the beginning of the century, Number of growers 3,048 harvests over the last five year period (2009-2013) Average holding/grower 0.4 ha have averaged 5.6 million kg. This sharp increase mainly reflects changing demand for Ribeira Sacra Data Source: España Ministerio de Agricultura grapes with only small amounts of fruit now being left unpicked.

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White grape production in the period from 2009- 2013 has amounted to only 0.2-0.4 million kg per WINE PRODUCTION annum. Of this Godello accounts for ca. 70%, of the harvest. Albariño (ca.15%) and Treixadura (ca. 10%) The number of wineries in Ribeira Sacra has make up much of the remainder. ranged between 80-100 during the 21st century. All wineries now do their own bottling. Since production volumes are small and investment funds scarce, most wineries operate using traditional equipment. The Amandi subzone has the largest number of wineries (ca. 35) and the Quiroga-Bibei subzone has the least (ca. 10)..

Black grape account for well over 90% of Ribeira Sacra’s harvests and of this amount Mencia’s contribution has been over 90% for the last five years. Or to put it another way, although 12 grape varietals are recommended for use in D.O. Ribeira Sacra, Mencia makes up ca. 85% of the harvest.

Of the remaining black grape production, Garnacha During the 21st century total wine production has is the next most important, despite it being only increased markedly and broadly in line with harvest an authorised variety. For four of the last five years size. Production over the period from 2008 to 2012 Garnacha production has exceeded that of all white has averaged 25,000 hl. grapes

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per litre have fluctuated within the range €4.0-5.5/ SALES litre. The apparently high value for exports in 2012 may be anomalous due to the very small volumes Volume involved.

Sale volumes for Ribeira Sacra’s wines over the period 2008-2012 have averaged only 20,500 hl. Purchases within Spain account for ca. 98% of the total. Of the tiny amount of wine that makes it into the export market, a disproportionate number of bottles are of white wine (ca. 40%).

REFERENCES

Xunta de Galicia (2008) Plan Actuacion global de infraestruturas Viticolas na Ribeira Sacra Lucense. 21pp

Revenue WEBSITES Over the past five years revenues from the sale of Ribeira Sacra wines have averaged €9.8 million per Consejo Regulador, D.O. Ribeira Sacra annum. This represents an important source of www.ribeirasacra.org revenue for this largely rural community. Revenues

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