THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 30, 1896. 29 bodices, unless we possess some real Fashion continues to expect her follow- flounces, for in that case they can be ers to have small waists, bat the utilized to great advantage, as you see in pinched-in, wasp-like waist is regarded as DISCUSSESMARCELLA the models presented this week. Itis well thoroughly out of date. However, a *ood to have not more than three or corset-maker never makes a corset which four evening dresses made during Oc- gives an abnormal appearance, but alas, tober, for numerous little fads and the woman who thoroughly understands caprices will obtain during December. the needs of her customers is even harder THE AUTUMNFASHIONS find than the capable dressmaker, for But a few words concerning the passing to season at the present moment: ", no woman should allow her figure to be brides, and that of the sheerest, , crepes, crushed bya stiff, unyielding sort of affair Numerous will be the autumn !ginning to look old-fashioned and their sleeves, which fitted the arms closely and willgive her an artificial appear- and they adherents rather decidedly A rilk , 'veilings,' lace over thin which already have ordered some very passe. Le roi were finished with the puckered lace. recently heard of a prominent so- mort, vivele roi. plain glace , painted etamine, embroidered ance. I delightful gowns. One Ihave heard about jest choter, having the as a founda- being troubled with a most un- quite of Ifany of my gowns tion, tulles, are the order of the day, adorned cial leader is exquisite. Itis a bridal dress readers must have was completely covered with lace. becoming and unfashionable amounts of rich, corsage for petite tenue, most with flounces upon flounces of lace, and white . The is draped the satisfactory are The Geisha parasol is in high favor. It color, decided to consult her physi- white grenadines. authority with ribbons galore, in tints so soft, so who softly with white , which is j the An says :is of pagoda form, the ribs being flattened subject. His prescription order, flower-like, and so brilliant withal that one cian on the to be caught up on the shoulders with !i They never seem to get out of but out at the edges, so as to advantageously brief, your corset i staud all weather and no end of wear tear, ends dv resembling some of those bonbon was "Let out four sprays of orange blossoms. It droop 3! and show a liningof bouillonne chiffon or,soft was indig- !• lookingsmart to the last. Ihave litced one bags which our great tontisenrs have the inches." The social autocrat over the top of the crinkled, tight-fitting ; !silk, finished inmany cases with a flounce nant. Maecklla. chiffon puff. built over white silk, the skirt untrimmed and secret to make so perfectly beautiful." sleeve in a double The top round, laid in |of fine old lace. The covering is of plain in ; the bodice bul three broad of the bodice and a shaped panel ! pleats in front, the bacfc bias and seamless !or chine silk, without any trimming, all the skirt are beautifully embroidered in IFrom under the center pleat in front, quite. ;elaboration being reserved for the lining, tiaj seed pearls. Sprays of orange bios- |j high toward the collar-band, are two small which is usually of a contrasting shade. soms are to be arrayed at each end and in i white satin revers, covered with guipure and One much admired was covered withwhite the embroidery. Equally ] embroidered in fine green pailletes. A little corded silk a lining latest center of the 'j below, and has of the interesting are this trous- i from each side pleat, another revers of chiffon, a other frocks in size and finish is spread out, giving azure-blue and another of chine scan, enough advanced for i the same large pink roses which are far an exceedingly pleasing effect to the figure. silk covered with sprays of me to give you some idea of their novel The bodice is belted with a green and white scattered over a white ground has a rose- • features. A Bmart little gray cheviot , striped ribbon, plisse into fans over the hips. pink chiffon lining. One of the advantages has a loose-fronted bodice with an ' Agreen collar-band, with pointed g-ui- of this shape is that when shut the flat- unusually handsome yoke ofcut jet, down l( pure ruS, was very becoming. The sleeves, tened edges of the ribs turn back suffi- buttons, simple modern gigots fitting the lower arm, the front of which are three jet ;j ciently to show flowerlike glimpses of the Another a well-bung had lace mils at the wrist. Such a pretty hat lining. The used with sensible frock has \| satin straw was worn, crown makers have much Bkirt, absolutely plain, width, jof white the success handles mother-of-pjtarl of moderate irather high and covered almost entirely with of colored The jaunty open-fronted coat has a roll \u25a0 two shades of green . Perched on the top tinted pink, blue or a beautiful delicate collar and fanciful small revers. The cor- jof the tulle was a single American Beauty rose shade of mauve. Of course the handle is ners are rounded and there are two pock- ij with foliage. chosen so as to harmonize with the cover- ets. Homespun is the material employed Ata reception given here two weeks ago ing, and Dresden handles of unusually in a shade of chocolate-brown. a gown of apricot shot with white lovely designs are still employed. A reception toilet of pink and gray shot j was worn by an Eastern bride. The most A Paris correspondent writes: "Spun- Bilkhad a folded cincture extending high | beautiful jeweled insertion was intro- glass sunshades are the latest novelty under the arms; it is pointed in front j duced in the skirt within two feet of the here. Many of my readers may hear of and bordered along the top with lovely Ibottom. It was about four inches in th!s with some amusement,' as spun glass silver passementerie, as is also the top edge width and looked as though composed of does not seem to represent a material of the corsage, which has a yoke and col- diamonds, emeralds and golden threads. from which any kind of an umbrella may lar of pale gray creDe de chine over rose J A sort ef little bolero was made of the be manufactured. Such is, however, the pink satin. With itis to be worn a cape j same, and the entire gown had a liningof case, and very pretty if rather perishable of pale pink satin, covered with the finest I white glace with frills of the apricot silk. they are, these glistening creations, so embroidered black chiffon; the frills are j Shot apricot silk is inhigh favor, as itis light and airy and original. How the of white chiffon. undoubtedly extremely becoming to glass is spun for the purpose it is not for Many of the creations of this bride's i many. As a result of this discovery one of me to say, but it is treated in such a bright modiste for evening wear are quite j the prettiest girls Ihave ever seen was a fashion that it can be folded without charming— for instance, one is of pale picture last week ina sheer organdie frock I breaking, as, for the' matter of that, itis preen satin, run with a thread of gold. richly incrusted with real Valenciennes i woven loosely it is true, but stillwoven, The bodice has the appearance of being j lace made over an apricot taffeta, also in the same manner as , with bier swathed round the pretty wearer (who is, shot with white. She wore a wide sash of , and is to be obtained in pale tints of course, a slender maiden), in folds; taffeta ribbon exactly matching the silk of extreme shininess, which seem to have across the decolletage is a broad piece of slip. Itwas tied in two donkey ear loops imprisoned thousands of sunrays betwixt creamy lace; over one shoulder are carried and the long ends reached the bottom their tiny, silky threads." soft folds of golden-hued tulle; over the of the skirt, and were deeply fringed. And in Newport so gay are the parasols other extend some half-opened Marechal Her simple hat of white leghorn was that they can only be compared to "eigan- Niel buds. The sleeves consist of many simply trimmed with tulle,which matched tic flowers." Another noted at Newport frills of the tulle sewed over the green her sash, ana three short but very choice of corded white silk had a rich flounce of latin. The skirt is without adornment, ostrich feather?. This lovely toilet was Maltese lace, a dainty heading of white butis completed inside with pinked frills worn at a country luncheon, on which and a lovely ivory stick and handle of golden-colored taffeta. occasion was almost equally admired a mounted in embossed gold, the graceful Adinner gown of turquoise blue silk has creation of most exquisitely fine em- design run halt way up. It had a gilt & pointed belt of embroidery done in sil- broidered grass linen over a slip of Nile frame tipped with points of dead gold. ver, jet and emerald green sequins. A green silk. A long sash of plain grass Ifyou can find a remnant of green and narrow strip of the same outlines the linen encircled a pretty waist. This sash blue shot silk that will harmonize well corselet at the top and waist and forms was trimmed on the outer edge with lace; with your cloth secure itpromptly, as this braces over the shoulders. The chemi- itmeasured between sixteen and eighteen combination is likely to continue to be the ends, sette and sleeves are of black , on inches at the but tapered off to half fashion all winter. The blue Irefer to is \u25a0which appear the same sequins with good that width at the waist line. The chic the rich royal blue, and the green is grass effect. These also outline every seam of bolero was completely covered with green. To return tomy subject. The tailor the skirt. puckered Valenciennes, front rounding gown having been secured, the matron, For bridesmaids' dresses yellow and and back cut up in a point. The epau- belle and debutante who can afford a pinK promise to be the most popular, as lettes were also of puckered lace, laid in handsome visiting toilette will at once they have been discovered to give an ea- jabot folds over the slightly bouffant start on an interesting tour of inspection, but exactly what they will see Icannot yet say, as the goods are slowly arriving, are but many the careful shoppers who, heavy creamy white lace. This be during season is to the of sales, have as an applique over silk a lovely used for toilette secured rich and materials that promises to be quite delightful, and that willexcite the envy and admiration nc many woman with the least artistio ideas cf of their friends ere long. That could have failed this summer to have gray is to be fashionable is an assured iprocured lovely pieces of silk crepe !fact, and one wise young wife purchased and soie, quite lace mousseline dc from ;'last month an extensive piece of the which later can, be evolved charming finest gray cloth for a mere song, it being dresses for receptions, dinners, dances Iconsidered a short length, and it would be theater parties, provided can se- vogue. Men are out of date who appear and they as I were not large sleeves doomed. Later this or in white silk evening ties, lawn is the purchased cure the clever dressmaker the little thing little woman a lovely piece of woman who sews so well by the day, and THE T ANSHOE MUST SO to wear. C. 0. The latest novelty in watches for men Duke of Clarence was always wellgroomed this reminds me that that rara avis has - .'., yet by spite are those reproduced in gold from the and well turned out. The Dnko of York r KEW TODAY. r: : not been discovered me, in of being much diligent search. Little compara- French empire period. They bid fair to impresses me as a bit slovenly. He tively is now required of the dressmaker, become popular, being very small and so is a very good young man in his way, but magnetism as skirts will,for the most part, be but flat that they lie in the waistcoat pocket one who possesses no personal Alpine slightly ornamented, the charm of the unperceived. Some men have been seen whatever. But to return to the gown consisting in a perfectly fitted bodice wearing as scarfpins heads of hounds and straw. Itis stiff and unbecoming, and it de- gives a man an opera bduffe appearance and a sfcirt that is beyond criticism, as for terriers in brilliants. However, such Imitation some time yet most of the trimming is to signs are very ordinary. that is ridiculous. 'yssy consist of that which appears on our Atthe present moment there is quite a The English are trying hard to make— JLfj'Si Cnt Glass craze for for country wear, although the morning coat—a species of cutaway pecially pretty setting for the bride's | the smartest men adhere to their fashionable. This also will hardly be Y§^ch) Fiower gown. Peau de soie is to be a favorite I and some to . "Him"remarks: "Iam popular here, as the design is too stiff and changeable fabric, and in beauti- j not so averse to linen in the 'alto- the lounge or sack coat is so much more (V^m^! Vases— ful combinations rank among the latest clothes^ gether,' but Ileave the white duck complete. 7*c» 15c, novelties, and mousseline de soie willcon- trousers to the schoolboy and the subur- Alter all, in dressing well one should \ V be as vogue as ever I <&^Q tinue to much the be- banite. The russet or brown leather boot avoid what is common. As soon as the \JqIL 20e, 25c ; fore for trimming. No bridesmaid ever i is doomed." masses are arrayed ina fashion then avoid ' wearing a i any / thinks of waist that is not of hat is popular in England, it. Few if women look otherwise-than ;and 35c. skirt, The straw the same material as her as from an and Iccc a wild statement that every one common and dowdy in what are known as //VvV t^o> point a combination artistic of view such will wear that abomination known as the "shirt-waists," and very few men can thought of. could not be The skirts for Alpine straw hat because the Duke of envy the mass of color which is presented a longer bridesmaids are to be trine than has been seen with one. The foliy to them in the haberdasher-shop «nn- , and are narrower, York taose of last autumn | ofeither the Prince of Wales or the Duke dows. as a Those popular Stamp Plates, with the .but are cut so to have certain flare. of York leading the men's fashions is ex- As 1previously stated, gray is to be the Large hats withostrich plumes are much ploded. The Prince dresses quite well for color this autumn and black four-in-hands, openwork edges, go at 10c each. they match the dress in color. 200 Fine China Hand-decorated Cuspi- liked,' still a man of his age, but who ever knew of a black ties and the narrow black silk bow Many ladies strive after picturesque j evening dors, regularly 75c, go at 40c each. sailor who knew how to dress? The for semi-formal dress willbe in 1 effects with the happiest results. Shortly Allthe above for Monday, Tuesday and Bix pretty maids will walk up a certain Wednesday only. aisle, and all of them willbe attired in ! Don't forget the Bargain Table— fall pink, bnt not all willbo of the same shade, j of good things at give-away prices. }\u0084: Instead three shades willbe allowed which ! CLIMBINGOUTTAMALPAIS perfectly blend. Peau de soie will be j Velley say all scientists, artists or just plain lovers of and charming little boleros of lace People who livein Mill that THAT BIG CHINA STORE used have climbed to the top of nature, and men from any of these classes ' 'i, worn, through which will De run more women \ A Quarter ofa Block BelowShr eve' willbe Mount Tamalpais this year than all those are never known to be rude to a woman. threads of gold. The pokelike bonnets j ascent in If ycu meet a man on the trail he will, VVANQENHKIM,STERNHEIM & CO. straw, put together who have made the are to be of cream-white overwhich the last five years. In fact It has become most likely,raise his hat when he allows pink roses and a cluster of short ostrich and Market St., ; quite popular for ladies to climb the you to pass, but make no further effort to 528 530 plumes are to nod. Each maid willcarry beautiful peak on the north shore of San begin a conversation than some remark , ':;; a long cane (also cream white) in line, 27 and 29 Sutter St. to Francisco Bay, and often a dozen par- about the pleasant weather. . BELOW MONTGOMERY. top which, long pink ribbons, :"\u25a0 . the of with ties can be seen winding up the trail in a great pink roses. Dozens of ladies from San Franciico will be tied bunch of to get the grand view from the top gloves glace order make the ascent to the top of Tamalpais The worn willbe of kid. As and also to get the benefit of the fresh air it, by Maud had a full ruche of mous- inbloomers and enjoy as is shown Princess and exercise incidental to the trip. they are sure repeat (Cnt this oat. Itwillnot appear again.) de the skirt of wed- the lact that to the seline soie round her Why has the trip suddenly become so When they leave the City ding gown brides, as well experience. most of the as popular? some might ask. The answer is wear ordinary the maids, in the near future willhave these women an street plain enough to any one who willtasethe skirt over their bloomers and when they GIVEN their skirts adorned ina similar manner. glance at trouble to even the ladies who are well out of the crowd in Mill Valley, IN Speaking of brides reminds me that reached the top. They wear bloom- carry owning a carriage and having have remove itand either it with them any of them ers. Without bloomers they might have one nearby stores, visiting list, acceptable or leave it in of the a long would find accomplished the ascent, but it would are only glad wedding just designed; where the people too to a novel present, such hard work. Infact itis the GOLD AWAY "carriage have been take care of ituntil owner returns. 1 itis a small white leather bag," hard work incidental to skirts that the '. Who can form the greatest, number of words the Under these circumstances bloomers " \u25a0 trimmed with gilt and lined with white the letters in TOILERS? Yon are smart has kept women from making the ascent can made of thin material. Many from words, . Itcontains in the pockets a card be very enough to make fifteen or more we feel in the past. frequently to the sore, and ifyou do you willreceive a good reward. purse matcb, smelling salts, ladies who go peak It case and to a Strong, indeed, must the woman be who of black Do notnse any letter more times than appears gold pencil and a tiny watch set in the make their bloomers coarse, In the word. No proper nouns. Xo foreign words. can on a hot day climb to the top of alpaca, which is easy to clean, and also TJs« any dictionary that is standard. Use plurals. outside. Bicycle bags are also much liked | Tamalpais while wearing a skirt, to say Here is an example of the way to work itout: To, cool and dust-shedding. toll, toils, set. sot, sit. oil,oils, let,etc. These words by wheelwomen. Iwill shortly have any nothing ofthe discomfort of the dust and Valley top count. The publisher of Woman's World and amount of news concerning the creations | heat of the garments. They are so heavy The Mill trail to the of Ta- JEN-NBBB Miiaeb Monthly will pay $20.00 in being designed for another belle, but great an malpais is the more interesting, although goldto the person able to make the largest list of j to carry and make the use of alpen- words from the letters in the word TOILERS; willbe the changes announced within the stock almost impossible, which is really the Ross Valley trail is said to be the eas- 810.00 for the second largest; $5.00 tor the third: sixty days in all our apparel; are ier walking. In the former the grandeur «5.00 for thefourth and $2.00 each for the five next how- dangerous because few women athletic next largest lists. The above rewards are given ever, the fiat has gone forth concerning j enough to get over the rough and uncer- of the view begins as soon as the top of free and without consideration forthe purpose. of our sleeves, and are j hiilback of the station is climbed and attracting attention to our handsome ladles maga- skirts and numerous tain trail without some support. tne zine, twenty-four pages, ninety-six long columns, already to be seen which carry increases in beauty until the top is finely illustrated and alloriginal matter: longand the dresses j But with bloomers on, how different it per year. the very latest of fashion's decrees, j over reached. The Ross Valley trail for sev- shore stories by thebest authors: price $1 out is. A woman can get the ground }n ItIs necessary foryou, to enter the contest, to send and already the large puffy sleeves are be- ; with an ease sbe has never known before eral miles lies behind the surrounding 12 two-cent stamps for a three months' trial sub- hills, and as a consequence there is no scription withyour list of words, and every person" and reach the top of the mountain as soon sending the 24 cents a list of" fifteen words or to speak of,except between clumps and. as most men, except, of course, those men view of more Unguaranteed an extra present by return trees, until more than half of the distance mail (inaddition to the magazine) of a large 258- who are trained to the sport. There is no -page book, "The Story of an African Farm," by top is covered. As this trail is of an easy Ralph Iron, one of .the most remarkable |books of exercise equal to a climb to the of guaranteed | trip grade it does not offer the chances of the age. ISatisfaction In every case or Tamaipais. Itis not a fatiguing and your money refunded. Lists should be sent at vigorous does, September 20, is really healthful because the top of the exercise the other because once, and not later than so that the one Is apt to get tired of walking long be- names of successful contestants may be published is not too high above the sea the October issue. Our publication has been mountain any climbing In refer.; < atmosphere to be rarefied. fore commences. established inine iyears. :We t you to :any level for the mercan lie agency for our standing. „\u25a0; Write now. Many women feel a certain modesty The view from Tamalpais is enough to Address J. H. PIXMMER, Publisher. 90S New City. about "wearing bloomers on the public repay any woman for the climb to the Court building.B. 109. York streets, even when riding a bicycle. But summit, providing she wears bloomers. they need not feel that way about wearing Inthat case she will not be worn out and bloomers to the top of Tamalpais. A can enjoy the wonderful expanse of coun- woman without bloomers on the trail is try spread out beneath her. something she an unusual sight. And, indeed, when one is not likely to do if she wears skirts. The sees a party itis the skirt that seems out new railroad to the top will likely mate of place. There are no hoodlums on the the trip an easy one, but those who make remarks, and the it that way will never get the enjoyment trail to pass unpleasant ' T>EMOVES SUPERFLUOUS HAIRBYELEC- men that one doea meet do not seem to out of itthat the women do who put on ritricityat$1 a sitting; firstsitting free: no even see one's garments. Xhey are nearly bloomers ana climb. :scars left; moles, warts, e c, also removed*