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Honolulu by Steve Marsh

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Honolulu by Steve Marsh 1 City 5 Ways THERE’S MORE THAN ONE WAY TO DISCOVER A DESTINATION. HONOLULU BY STEVE MARSH AlohA. The word isn’t quite a palindrome, but its meaning barely changes coming or going. There’s something romantic about it, something that’s difficult to define upon first hearing, but something HNL you want to hear again. In that way, it’s of a piece with Hawaii—most of which was left unscathed by the recent volcano eruption. Honolulu is as unique a city as can be found in the world. Smack dab in the middle of the Pacific, it’s as connected to the cultural currents of Asia as it is to those of the mainland United States. It proudly looks to its indigenous roots while yearning to welcome its next visitor. Aloha! DOUGLAS PEEBLES/GETTY IMAGES DOUGLAS PEEBLES/GETTY delta sky / july 2018 43 j 1 City 5 Ways HONOLULU WHERE TO STAY Alohilani Resort MORNING SUNSET Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort & Spa Freshly remodeled (to the tune of $125 million) and located on Iolani Palace The oldest hotel on Waikiki boasts one of the premier sunset- the active end of Waikiki’s famous stretch of sand, the Alohilani Commissioned in 1879 by facing bars in the world. Stake out a front-row spot outside offers the type of attentive but laid-back service that is special King Kalakaua, this ornate and fixate on the sun’s descent long enough to look for that to this island. alohilaniresort.com palace is an ode to the rule famous “green flash.” moana-surfrider.com of Hawaii’s royal family. It’s ALOHA CHILL BREAKFAST Malasadas at Leonard’s Bakery also the site of self-rule’s DINNER Morimoto Asia Waikiki Portuguese immigrants initially brought the malasada—a deli- tragic end, culminating in Familiar to fans of Iron Chef and the rebooted Hawaii Five-0, cious, sometimes-cream-stuffed fried doughnut—to Hawaii, the 1895 imprisonment Masaharu Morimoto has spent five years on Oahu, and his but starting in 1952, Leonard’s Bakery made them a Honolulu of Queen Lili’uokalani. namesake restaurant showcases his command of pan-Asian staple. leonardshawaii.com iolanipalace.org cuisine. morimotoasiawaikiki.com WHERE TO STAY MORNING LUNCH AFTERNOON Waiola Shaved Ice The Royal Hawaiian Pearl Harbor Historic Sites Rainbow Drive-In Imported by Japanese immigrants, Hawaiian shaved ice Since 1927, this Luxury Go online well in advance to This should be your might be the only way to satisfy a sweet tooth after a Collection Resort, “the reserve a place on one of the introduction to a hearty massive plate lunch. This spot is a classic. Try the pickled CLASSIC Pink Palace of the Pa- U.S. Navy skiffs that tours local phenomenon: the mango! waiolashaveice.com cific,” has been hosting the famous harbor. It’s an Hawaiian plate lunch. A HONOLULU dignitaries ranging from austere environment where protein, like BBQ beef or DINNER Original Roy’s Hawaii Kai local legend Duke Kah- families can still be found shoyu chicken, is flanked Roy Yamaguchi is one of the founders of Asian fusion anamoku to President paying their respects to the by two scoops of rice and cuisine and his namesake chain, founded in 1988, is now Franklin D. Roosevelt. brave men who perished a scoop of macaroni salad. an empire. The original location in the Hawaii Kai neigh- royal-hawaiian.com aboard the USS Arizona. rainbowdrivein.com borhood retains its first-timer charm. royshawaii.com WHERE TO STAY BRUNCH AFTERNOON Halona Beach Cove HAPPY HOUR Prince Waikiki Ahi Assassins Fish Co. Half an hour from Waikiki Beach, on the Kalanianaole Cafe Duck Butt This Waikiki hotel, Poke is perhaps the hottest Highway, pull off to check out the Halona Blowhole Lookout. Boasting what may be owned by a venerable food trend going, now The intrepid can sneak down to the beach and recreate the the cutest name of any Japanese luxury brand, found in malls and airports moment Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr took their famous bar in Hawaii, this Korean HANG LOOSE oozes warmth and all over the world, but this roll in the sand in From Here to Eternity. karaoke bar has a mighty class. The rooms are hole in the wall run by local happy hour with an array state of the art, the buf- fishermen serves the fresh- LUNCH Ono Steaks and Shrimp Shack of delicious small plates fet is opulent and the est, most delicious version This has the best plate lunch on Oahu, maybe on any island. that pair perfectly with golf course is gorgeous. known to humankind. The coconut shrimp is better than any of the varieties found at either soju or K-pop—or princewaikiki.com ahiassassins.com the more famous North Shore food trucks. 41-037 Wailea St. both. 901 Kawaiahao St. WHERE TO STAY MORNING AFTERNOON DINNER COCKTAILS The Surfjack Hotel Kapio’olani Community Avanti Shirts Senia Smith’s Union Bar & Swim Club College Farmers Market Perhaps Hawaii’s No. 1 If you make one res- The oldest bar on the Cozy and hip with For those who expect Hawaii export, the Aloha shirt ervation on Oahu, Hawaiian Islands is tucked WAIKIKI a veneer of vintage to produce a cornucopia of has become a Hawaiian make it at locavore away within the Magnum, Don Ho-era Waikiki, local bounty, you won’t be classic. And Avanti makes sensation Senia. P.I.-noir of Honolulu’s Chi- HIPSTER the Surfjack caters to disappointed. The food stands a flower-print silk number The Caraflex cab- natown. During WWII, this those of us still willing also are magnificent—espe- just like the one that Elvis bage dish alone will was the bar picked by the to walk two whole cially the banh canh at The Pig wore —along with the ones make you reconsider crew members of the USS blocks to the beach. & the Lady. kapiolani.hawaii. Bruno Mars still wears! your flight home. Arizona to be “their” water- surfjack.com edu/project/farmers-market avantishirts.com restaurantsenia.com ing hole. 19 N. Hotel St. WHERE TO STAY Turtle Bay Resort BREAKFAST LUNCH AFTERNOON The only resort of any kind found on Oahu’s North Shore, Ted’s Bakery in Kahuku Farms Laniakea Turtle Turtle Bay is a fully functioning landmark. The staff can hook Sunset Beach Book a smoothie Beach you up with the perfect wave, the perfect hike or the perfect After a rigorous tour and learn about Rule No. 1: Never touch NORTH SHORE piña colada. Just ask. turtlebayresort.com morning of surf- the history of the the turtle! If you are lucky ing—or watching banana harvest enough to spot one of BANZAI MORNING Watch Pro Surfers at Banzai Pipeline real surfers do their before slurping down these magical creatures, During winter big wave season, even if there isn’t a scheduled thing—treat yourself a delicious Papaya meditate on the native event, monitor surf conditions the night before and claim a to the best loco moco Power smoothie of belief that the aumakua spot at dawn. With the right conditions, you might glimpse a plate lunch in Hawaii. your very own. www. is a protective, ancestral pro, such as 2017 world champ John John Florence. tedsbakery.com kahukufarms.com guardian spirit. 44 delta sky / july 2018 SEE PAGE 21 FOR PHOTO CREDITS. delta sky / july 2018 45.
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