Praise Cheeses!

By Clint Carter Photographs by and Paul Kita Plamen Petkov

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Still lost among the shrink- wrapped slices? It’s time to taste real cheese: Full-fat, flavor-packed, and protein- rich. Seek out the best and serve it right, and you’ll want to spend a lifetime tasting hundreds of varieties. Better start now.

MH0314_FEAfood_layout [P].indd 113 12/27/13 2:57 PM 12272013155109 changed the chemistry of milk, says Kehler. “Before the orange coloring is added, some of this stuff is actually translucent. It’s reinventing the not even recognizably cheese,” he says. For decades, even “real” cheese made in the United States cheese wheel didn’t rival the European stuff. U.S. producers would manipu- late fat and protein content by skimming and then reconstitut- Want to reap the rewards of real cheese? Start here. ing the milk with milk fat to create a consistent product with It’s an hour before sunrise in northern Vermont, and a a long shelf life—an approach that favored profit over flavor. warm light glows from the windows of a gray concrete Nowadays it’s easier to find artisanal varieties, but many building surrounded by pastureland. Most of the state Americans tend to be wary of cheese, fearing that the full-fat is still sleeping, but for the cheesemakers here at Jasper Hill kind is bad for the heart and the waistline. There’s no reason to Farm, the workday began hours ago. fear real cheese. In fact, in reasonable amounts, new research The source of that light is a high-ceilinged, temperature- finds that it may actually help keep you lean. controlled room where three men with formidable beards are The cheese-loving French, for example, scarf down almost 58 brushing wheels of cheddar with molten lard, swaddling them pounds of fromage a year—over 60 percent more than Ameri- in muslin, and hoisting them onto a 20-foot-long shelf. There cans do. Yet they tend to be leaner and less likely to die of heart the cheese will sit for at least a year as flavor-producing enzymes disease than we are. “It drives me crazy when people point to transform it into crumbly, savory Cabot Clothbound Cheddar. one food as unhealthy,” says Tonya Schoenfuss, Ph.D., a scien- Does that sound better than the cellophane-wrapped stuff you tist who studies dairy products technology at the University of grew up on? It should. “What we do here is fundamentally differ- Minnesota. “Cheese is not junk food. It has valuable protein, ent from what the mass producers do,” says Jasper Hill co-owner the fat may be healthy, and most varieties have a lot of calcium.” Mateo Kehler. “We’re part of a new wave of cheesemakers.” Let’s unpack this, starting with the protein. With about 7 And these innovative cheeses are heading straight to your grams per ounce, cheese is perfect for active guys. “Dairy pro- supermarket. While factory-made cheeses chill out between tein is the standard-bearer for all other proteins,” says Lloyd the Reddi-wip and sour cream, these stinky, odd-shaped, fuzz- Metzger, Ph.D., director of the Midwest Dairy Foods Research covered renegades occupy their own coolers by the deli counter Center and a professor of dairy science at South Dakota State or wine section. And our appetite for artisanal cheese is growing University. “Nature designed milk to help offspring grow, so as relentlessly as a good cheese mold: Sales reached $3.6 billion it makes sense that it contains the right ratio of amino acids.” in 2012, outselling any other category of specialty food. But what about all that saturated fat? Turns out it’s not the These newcomers deserve to dominate. Squishy, scarred with bogeyman we thought it was. “The evidence on saturated fat and blue veins, or crusted with ash, they range from grassy and milky its impact on coronary heart disease is swinging the other way,” to intense and feral. They’re cheeses that slow down your jaws says Schoenfuss. In fact, a study last year in the journal BMJ and make your palate vibrate. found that replacing saturated fat with plant-based polyunsatu- Of course, this breed of cheese isn’t actually new. Europeans rated fats increased the risk of death for men with heart disease have been making wonderfully funky varieties for centuries. by 30 percent. And since the calcium in cheese binds to fat in the It’s the processed stuff that’s the recent arrival to the world of gut, it blocks some of it from being absorbed, notes Greg Miller, cheese. In the 1920s, U.S. cheese producers began adding oil and Ph.D., president of the Dairy Research Institute and an adjunct emulsifying salts to the classic recipe of milk, rennet, bacterial associate professor of food science at the University of Illinois. cultures, and salt. In their effort to standardize the recipe, they Luckily, just as science is giving us the CONTINUED ON PAGE 139

Tour the Three Textures of Cheese Get cooking with recipes from Paula Lambert, author of The Cheese Lover’s Cookbook and Guide. 1 2 3 crunchy creamy saucy Frico Cheese Crisps Southern Pimiento Cheese All-American Beer Fondue Munch these carb-free snacks The undisputed party dip This domestic take on during the game, toss on a salad, champion. Serve with crackers fondue is more robust than and tuck them into sandwiches. and copious amounts of beer. the Swiss original.

Heat up a large nonstick pan on Place 8 oz coarsely shredded ched- Toss 1 lb shredded Gruyère and 1 lb medium. For each crisp, place 2 dar, longhorn, or Colby cheese in a shredded Emmental with 4 tsp corn- Tbsp shredded cheddar, provolone, medium bowl and add ½ cup mayon- starch. Rub the interior of a flameproof Monterey Jack, or scamorza in a naise, a 2 oz jar of chopped pimientos ceramic or enameled cast-iron pot Rule 1: Skip the plastic mound in the pan. Cook until the with their juice, 2 Tbsp grated onion, with a garlic clove. Add 2 cups lager bottom is browned, 3 to 4 minutes. and 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard. Blend well and heat on medium until it’s almost “Don’t buy shrink-wrapped cheese. Plastic Using a spatula, transfer the cheese with a spoon until smooth. boiling. Add the cheese mix, a handful the 6 creates off-notes like ammonia. Ask for round to paper towels, where it at a time, stirring until melted. Add 1 Rules Of a fresh-cut piece or buy your cheese Cheese will harden into a cheese crisp in tsp lemon juice and ground nutmeg from a high-turnover shop.” —Rob Kaufelt, a few minutes as it cools. and pepper to taste. Serve with plenty of bread and steamed vegetables. Owner of Murray’s Cheese, new york city

114 MensHealth.com | March 2014

MH0314_FEAfood_layout [P].indd 114 12/27/13 2:57 PM 12272013155124 Beer Makes It Better In the Middle Ages, beer-brewing monks basted their cheeses with ale-infused brine. Now, next-gen producers are building on that tradition, says Liz Thorpe, author of The Cheese Chronicles. Taste her top picks.

Cta o Corner Drunk Monk Connecticut’s Cato Corner hits a home run with this brown-ale- washed cheese. It boasts rich, funky flavor, a but- tery texture, and even a hint of peanut butter on the finish.

Rogue Creamery Morimoto Soba Ale Cheddar Oregon-based Rogue d ip this (or that) Not a broccoli fan? Creamery regularly Pickle spears, boiled new joins forces with upstate potatoes, and torn hunks neighbor Rogue Ales. of bread make equally It’s a standout pairing. good cheese carriers. With bold flavor and a toasty background from the ale, it’ll quickly become your go-to grilled-cheese cheese.

S weet Grass Dairy Black Swan A farmhouse-style cheese, it’s often coated with a different brew every batch, depending on the cheesemaker’s choice. The 2014 version uses Arrogant Bastard Ale from California’s Stone Brewing Co. for a malty, nutty aroma.

Rule 1: Skip the plastic Rule 2: don’t bulk out Rule 3: come in from the cold “Don’t buy shrink-wrapped cheese. Plastic “B uy only enough cheese to last for “Cheese tastes best when it’s been removed creates off-notes like ammonia. Ask for a week or two. The air movement from the fridge at least 20 minutes before a fresh-cut piece or buy your cheese in your refrigerator can dry it out.” eating. Larger or firmer cheeses will take from a high-turnover shop.” —Rob Kaufelt, —Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, co-owners more time.” —Tripp Nichols, cheesemonger Owner of Murray’s Cheese, new york city of Cowgirl Creamery, san francisco at Formaggio Kitchen, Cambridge, MA

MH0314_FEAfood_layout [P].indd 115 12/27/13 2:57 PM 12272013155124 a bit of bittersweet THEOR B A D Yes, 70% cacao chocolate For a cheese presentation belongs here. “The slight that pops, invest in a sweetness of chocolate can striking, easy-to-clean round out the funk of blue slate cheese board ($26, cheese,” says Bland. brooklynslate.com).

the crunchy partner a savory spread Sliced baguette, plain Condiments like onion or flavored crackers, and jam, chutney, and olive roasted nuts provide tapenade contrast well textural contrast to every with the delicate sweetness creamy or crumbly bite. of cheese, Bland says.

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MH0314_FEAfood_layout [P].indd 116 12/27/13 2:57 PM 12272013155124 a hit of sweetness Fruit jams and honey Rule 4: give it a good wrap flatter the sharp notes “T o keep cheese fresh in the refrigerator, in aged cheeses and complement the tartness the 6 wrap it in waxed paper first; then, to in fresh goat cheese. Rules Of keep it from drying out, wrap it in foil.” Cheese —Anne Saxelby, co-owner of Saxelby Cheesemongers in New York City

the cheese champions Top cheese-loving chefs across the country picked their favorites. Start with the mildest pick (1) and end with the most intense (6).

The Fresh Start / The Butter Bomb / Valençay Cowgirl Creamery 1 2 Mt. Tam M ilk Age type M ilk Age type Goat 3 to 5 Semisoft Cow 3 Weeks Bloomy weeks rind

“This is the quintessential raw-milk This cheese is a tasty paradox: rich 4 goat cheese,” says Ludo Lefebvre, and creamy but light and ethereal. It’s chef of Trois Mec in Los Angeles. like Camembert intensified,” says Paul “The taste is smooth and light and not Kahan, executive chef of Avec, the overly ‘goaty.’ It’s suave.” Publican, and Blackbird, all in Chicago.

The Savory Smear / The Nutty Snack / Jasper Hill Farm Pecorino Foglie 3 Harbison 4 de Noce M ilk Age type M ilk Age type Cow 3 to 6 Bark- Sheep 3 months Firm weeks wrapped

“Spread on grilled country bread, this “This firm but creamy cheese is aged woodsy, sweet cheese is the perfect in crocks between layers of fresh wal- start to any dinner,” says Grant Achatz, nut leaves, giving it a deep herb flavor,” chef/owner of Alinea, Next, and the says Bill Telepan, executive chef of Aviary restaurants, all in Chicago. Telepan and Telepan Local in NYC.

2 The New Classic / The Grand Finale / Cabot Clothbound Point Reyes 5 Cheddar 6 Original Blue M ilk Age type M ilk Age type Cow 10 to 14 Firm Cow 6 months Blue months

“It’s rich without being just a big fat Nothing beats this blue. “It’s crumbly bomb—warm, toasty flavors and a fan- and subtle when young, and super- tastic crumbly texture,” says Steve creamy with a nice punch with age,” ay savor spread Atkins, executive chef of the Kitchen says Michael Chiarello, chef and owner Condiments like onion Table Bistro in Richmond, Vermont. of Bottega in California’s Napa Valley. jam, chutney, and olive tapenade contrast well with the delicate sweetness of cheese, Bland says. b uild the ultimate cheese plate Want to rule the party but hate to break a sweat? Use these simple tips from Bryan Bland, head cheesemonger for Bar Pastoral in Chicago, to transform amazing cheese into an even better cheese plate.

MH0314_FEAfood_layout [P].indd 117 12/27/13 2:57 PM 12272013155124 Mozzarella the Magnificent Here are three mozz makeovers from Wade Moises, executive chef of Rosemary’s in New York City. 1 2 3 Salad Dip Sandwich Mozzarella with Roasted Peppers Spicy Baked Mozzarella Mozzarella en Carozza A fast sauté of vegetables adds Scoop up this molten cheese Think of it as the best grilled layers of flavor to the cheese. with chunks of crusty bread. cheese Mom never made.

In a pan on medium, heat 2 Tbsp olive Rub a garlic clove inside an 8-inch Top a slice of white bread with a few oil, a thinly shaved garlic clove, and baking dish; layer with a sliced ball of thin slices of mozzarella; for a twist, a few roasted red pepper strips until mozzarella, handfuls of chopped pars- add a few anchovy fillets. Press warm. Add a handful of sliced radic- ley and basil, a few splashes of extra- another piece of bread on top and dip chio and sauté for 1 minute. Add 1 virgin olive oil, and a pinch of salt and into egg wash (1 egg beaten with a Tbsp balsamic vinegar and a pinch chile flakes. Top with a few spoonfuls splash of olive oil and milk). Melt of chile flakes and salt. Serve over of tomato sauce. Bake at 450°F until 1 Tbsp butter on medium high in a sliced mozzarella and torn escarole. the cheese is blistered, 5 minutes. pan, and cook until golden, 5 minutes.

Rule 5: eat the rind (if you can!) “S oft cheeses usually have an edible rind that adds a great texture and the 6 flavor. Just steer clear of waxed or cloth rinds.” —tripp nichols Rules Of Rule 6: Buff before you bite Cheese “B efore serving aged cheeses, scrape the cut sides with a sharp paring knife to remove excess oils and stray mold.” —Sue Conley and Peggy Smith

Queso mil American blanco the cheese d Mozzarella Paneer matrix Burrata Find a new favorite Haloumi fromage with help Chèvre Munster from Laura Werlin, Havarti author of The All Fontina American Cheese Edam Maxwell’s Global and Wine Book. Brie Monterey Jack Cheese curds Gouda Training Guide = Soft Camembert These young, versatile Colby Jarlsberg cheeses boast Emmental mellow dairy flavor. Creamy C yrumbl Asiago = Bloomy Rind Manchego Tender and edible Gruyère

mold-covered rinds Raclette add funky flavor English Feta DIY Mozzarella Edsälv/ and a luscious texture. Port wine cheddar stamp cheddar Craft the creamiest Lisa mozzarella you’ve cow = Washed Rind Provolone Cotija Parmigiano- ever had, with expert Cheesemongers These robust cheeses Reggiano guidance from styling: are basted with brine, Taleggio Pecorino Gjetost Romano Ricki Carroll, author prop along with beer, wine, of Home Cheese RUTHERFORD; or spirits, to create Danish blue Martel, Gorgonzola Making. You’ll need Brewer/Saxelby layers of depth. Stilton SARAH e1 / Us great milk

funky an instant-read Pam by Seek out a local dairy. dairy thermometer, = Semifirm/Firm Maytag blue If you’re stuck with Torta del citric acid, and liquid These aged, natural- Casar the supermarket, buy Roquefort Limburger rind cheeses range rennet; find them at whole, pasteurized Granof/Stockland cheesemaking.com. illustrations from mild to strong. cheesemonger: milk. You’ll want to find a local brand with a sell- Mild + Crumbly Salami, cornichons / dry Riesling, American pale ales Victoria = Blue Andriulli; by date that’s about a & These blue-veined Pair mild + Creamy Olives, prosciutto / IPAs, blonde ales, and hard cider LEHMAN; week away. For this rec- with cheeses pack a wallop creamy + Funky Dried figs, toasted walnuts / sparkling wine, tawny port styling: ipe, a gallon will yield MATT

of pungent tastes. FUNKY + Crumbly Apple or pear butter, honey / Lambrusco, amber lager Food Bernstein by one large ball of cheese.

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MH0314_FEAfood_layout [P].indd 118 12/27/13 2:57 PM 12272013155125 SAN DWich SHORTCUT No time to make fresh mozzarella? Just use store-bought. Smoked mozzarella is especially good in a sandwich.

DIY Mozzarella Edsälv/ Craft the creamiest stamp Lisa mozzarella you’ve cow ever had, with expert Cheesemongers guidance from styling:

Ricki Carroll, author prop of Home Cheese RUTHERFORD; Martel, Making. You’ll need Brewer/Saxelby

SARAH 1 / Use great milk r2 / Rig you pot 3 / Kickstart the curd 4 / Cut the cheese 5 / press out the whey 6 / Build the ball an instant-read Pam by Seek out a local dairy. Pour the cold milk into Off heat, slowly stir in ¼ Use a long knife to With a slotted spoon, Knead the curd and dairy thermometer, If you’re stuck with a 6- to 8-quart stainless- tsp rennet mixed with crosshatch the curd into move the curd to a colan- then stretch it to form citric acid, and liquid the supermarket, buy steel pot; then stir in ¼ cup cool water, cover, 1-inch squares. Heat the der; press gently. Micro- a cylinder, repeating rennet; find them at whole, pasteurized a mixture of 1½ tsp cit- and wait 5 min. Gently pot on medium until the wave the curd in a large until the cheese shines, Granof/Stockland cheesemaking.com. illustrations cheesemonger: milk. You’ll want to find ric acid and 1 cup cool pull the curd away from contents reach 105°F; heatproof bowl for 1 min- 1 to 2 minutes. If it a local brand with a sell- water. Rest an instant- the edge with your fin- no stirring needed. Off ute on high. Pour off the doesn’t stretch easily, Victoria

Andriulli; by date that’s about a read thermometer in gers. If you don’t see a heat, slowly stir until whey. Knead 30 seconds; microwave it for 30 sec- & LEHMAN; week away. For this rec- the pot. Heat the milk yellow liquid (the whey), the white curd sepa- zap 30 seconds. Repeat onds. Shape into a cheese styling: ipe, a gallon will yield on medium to 90°F cover and let stand for a rates from the yellow until the curd is pliable ball or separate into MATT

Food Bernstein by one large ball of cheese. (don’t stir again). few more minutes. whey, 3 to 5 minutes. and the center is 135°F. string-cheese pieces.

MH0314_FEAfood_layout [P].indd 119 12/27/13 2:57 PM 12272013155125 Satisfaction

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