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ADVENTURES IN THE GLOBAL CRAFT ALCOHOL MOVEMENT 9

Mikkeller’s MBCC 2017 Your front-row seat for the greatest show on Earth The Beerfather Mikkel Borg Bjergsø shares his home city of + The National The Ohio rockers’ Aaron Dessner talks beer and festivals

Homebrew: Includes Mikkel’s original Beer Geek Breakfast recipe! • Don’t miss events • See when Dark Lord is pouring! • And more... Welcome to MBCC 2017 Editor’s hen we started MBCC, our aim was simple: to create Wthe best beer festival in Note the world. We wanted to let the audience step into the brewer’s world, so we asked the founders and head brewers actually come along in person to present their . This year, we have 98 breweries ere’s something to shock including new talent (25), your socks off: we’re big fans but all the best and most Hof Mikkel Borg Bjergsø. We like interesting. his beer, his bars, his running club, his brand, his facial hair… it’s It’s become a great platform for collaborations between the a big beery crush. And we’re not alone; unusually for such an brewers and a chance for them to get a deeper understanding of overwhelmingly successful craft brewer, ’d be hard pressed what each other do, as well as to party together in our beautiful to hear a single bad word against Mikkeller or Mikkel himself. city. We also have the best guests; they don’t just go looking for So, to coincide with this year’s Mikkeller Beer Celebration the highest ABV, they really want to expand their palettes and the Copenhagen (MBCC), we’ve packed the Beer52 box full of brewers appreciate their open-mindedness. great beers from Mikkel himself and a few other top breweries You’ll see some awesome competition between the brewers to attending the festival. We’ve also given over a good chunk bring their best beer. There’s so much amazing beer continuing of this issue to Mikkeller, the festival and the beautiful, beery to come out of the US, UK and Scandinavia. Hazy beers have burgh of Copenhagen. been the big trend this year, so expect to see a few of those. In Belgium, you’ve got these new age guys like Bokkereyder – he There’s also an interview with Aaron Dessner of The National, started in his Mum’s living room and was named best new a chance encounter with Rick Astley and a new regular column brewery on RateBeer – bringing a whole new way of thinking to from internet-famous media node Ollie Peart. Lambic beers. Our guest is mead, one of the very first fermented We’ve got a lot going on in Asia, and this year we’ve invited a known to mankind, so we separate the history from whole bunch of Asian brewers who are doing cool stuff. You’ll see a the myth and meet the guys at Superstition, one of Mikkel’s lot of fruit and herb experimentation that you don’t see in Europe. favourite meaderies. Finally, Matt Curtis counts the cost of You don’t need to be an American Brexit and we dive into the wild world of dihydrogen monoxide dude or a crazy Belgian guy to make great beer! for Beer School. So, all that’s left to say is grab a Check back in issue 14 for our full account of MMBC, and in glass, download the MBCC app and the meantime keep in touch at [email protected] or @ enjoy this special edition of Ferment. FermentHQ

Skål, Cheers, Richard Mikkel Borg Bjergsø Craft Beer Rising, page 82 8: Meet Mikkel Our interview with the genius behind Mikkeller

16: Mikkeller’s Copenhagen CONTENTS Your guide to the Our contributors Danish capital 28: Mikkeller Running Club Tie one on. Then tie the other one on. Then run.

32: Kinn Old-fashioned techniques for thoroughly modern beers

37: Brewski Matthew Curtis Melissa cole Fraser Doherty The Swedish brewer who’s not WRITER & PHOTOGRAPHER WRITER WRITER what you’d expect Matthew Curtis is an award- Certified Cicerone® and beer & Co-founder of Beer52, amateur 40: Brus winning freelance beer writer and food writer, Melissa Cole is one home-brewer, avid traveller, photographer based in London, of the UK’s leading beer experts. jam-maker and author of two Former highschool brewers UK. He is the founder and editor Author of Let Me Tell You About books. Follow him on Twitter and create a space for all of beer blog Total and is Beer, international beer judge, Instagram @fraserdoherty a contributor for Good Beer collaboration brewer, sommALEier 44: Dry and bitter Hunting in the US. @totalcurtis and regular festival presenter. Søren Wagner, on why he’s brewing it for himself

32: National treasure Louise Crane Alex Paganelli Ollie peart Aaron Dessner on the Haven WRITER CHEF & FOOD WRITER festival, art and friendship PHOTOGRAPHER Louise Crane is a freelance Recipes Broadcaster, writer and host of science and drinks writer, and the insanely popular Zeitgeist 61: Homebrew a Spirits Advisor at The Whisky As founder of Dead Hungry, podcast, Ollie keeps his finger on The Grainfather, plus we Exchange in London. She holds Alexandre has been creating the pulse so we don’t have to. tackle Mikkeller’s Beer a Masters degree in History of incredible recipes for Ferment. @Ollieep Medicine and is a trained ballet deadhungry.co Geek Breakfast dancer. Oddly. 80: Guest drink: mead Hey honey, meet Superstition meadery

EDITOR ADVERTISING 92: Ollie’s modern life Richard Croasdale To discuss how Forget hygge; Jantelov is the DESIGNER Ferment could work way to a fulfilled life PUBLISHED BY: with your brand, Ashley Johnston Ferment & Beer52, request a media Floor 3, 88: Beer school Twitter | Instagram @fermenthq pack or book an 26 Howe Street, advert, contact Water, water everywhere, so Contributions, comments, rants: Edinburgh, David Laird: let’s all have a drink [email protected] EH3 6TG [email protected]

This issue of Ferment was first printed in April 2017 in England, UK by JamJar. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. INTERVIEW WITH MIKKELLER Bjergsø’s revolution

WORDS: Fraser Doherty PHOTOGRAPHS: Kiva Brynaa & Zsolt Stefkovics

year ago, we produced the inaugural issue of Ferment all Aabout . It was also our first encounter with the world’s most well-known ‘gypsy brewer’: Mikkel Borg Bjergsø. In the year that has followed, this icon of Danish craft brewing has opened bars in cities across the globe and even set down roots by taking over Alesmith’s old brewery in . With 11 locations in Copenhagen alone and outposts in some of the most glamorous cities around the world, the company’s list of addresses could rival that of a luxury fashion house: LA, , , , , , , , and . Not to mention of course Tórshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands and Reykjavik in Iceland.

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find volume sales from the likes of business are so clear, that operating supermarkets, for example. within them is made so much easier.” Working with a variety of different One of the company’s main rules is breweries also gave Mikkel a near that it does no advertising, opting to unlimited pallet upon which to base invest in its products instead. A lot of his recipes. Each brewery has its the innovations in terms of how they own specialities; different techniques run the company have sprung from and equipment, strains of yeast not spending time and money in the and varieties of hops. This range of usual way; things like the Mikkeller possibilities has led to the creation of Running Club, for example, have an incredible 1,000 different been hugely successful. What comes Mikkeller beers. across from everyone I talk to here is As a values-driven company, based that Mikkel’s vision for what he wants on the principles that Mikkel created Mikkeller to stand for is crystal clear back in his kitchen, the business in his mind and his attention to detail has attracted not only a worldwide is immaculate. This can come across as following, but a diverse team of pedantic to those who don’t share his around 350 people. According to passion for the project. the company’s operations director, a “It can be frustrating when not former Danish Army Major: “The rules everyone sees things the way I do,” about what are right and wrong for the Mikkel admits. Jacob jokes that he

Operated from an immaculate office adorned with stylish Danish furniture and a reception that offers five draught lines of its latest creations, this is a beer company unlike any other. Through its bathroom window lies a stark reminder of Danish beer’s mediocre past: Carlsberg’s shimmering tower. The fact that the new and old of Danish beer are based in the same neighbourhood is merely a quirk of history – Mikkel brewed his first batch of beer 200m from where we’re sitting. Ultimately needing to scale up production, he started contract brewing at other people’s premises and his image as a ‘gypsy brewer’ was born. Free to grow organically and able to focus on creating small-batch beers at the high end of the market, his creativity wasn’t bogged down by the pressures that owning a brewery would usually bring. Unlike many upstart brewers, he never had the need to

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bowed to what it expected would be popular among the drinkers there. But Mikkel ultimately wanted to try something new – it’s what he is known for, after all. “I didn’t come to San Diego to brew another IPA”, he says. Sticking to its core values has served the brewery well and beers like its Berliner weisse with coffee and raspberry got a great reaction, ultimately making it into their core range. To top it, Mikkeller’s juicy, murky New England IPAs such as ‘Hazed and Amused’ and ‘Uklar’ have been trending among the Top IPAs on RateBeer. With a desire to create the same ‘hand to hand’ feeling that Mikkeller had when it first started in Copenhagen, Mikkel set out to launch a new beer every week. With people will visit a bar before it opens because Danish company, to be standing in the queuing up at the brewery to try the he knows exactly what things Mikkel middle of Boston with 7,000 people – latest releases, the concept has been a won’t like when he walks through all thanks to our friends and partners huge success. the door. “I once spotted these goofy – was humbling,” says Mikkel. A pallet of these short-run Mikkeller V-neck pullovers one of the bars was But this was to be just one step in To be standing in the San Diego beers even makes its way selling on their opening night,” he Mikkeller’s conquest of America. Back by air to Copenhagen every other laughs. “I told them to get rid of them when he was experimenting with his middle of Boston with week, so that Mikkel can taste them immediately, before Mikkel saw them.” original Beer Geek Breakfast recipe 7,000 people – all thanks and provide instant feedback to the Although they’ve had to burn some in his kitchen, Mikkel contacted Peter to our friends and brewers in . It also makes dodgy merchandise along the way, Zien, the founder of Alesmith Brewing partners – was humbling a number of the cans available to this attention to detail has served the in San Diego, California. They kept buy in the online shop. “Obviously, it company well from the beginning. in touch over the years and, after doesn’t make much economic sense, Uncharacteristically for a small Danish deciding to move to bigger premises, but people in Europe really want to company, Mikkeller received one of its Peter offered a chance for the world try what we’re making out there,” he first real orders from the US very early famous brewer-without-a-home to explains. on in its development. As a result, it finally own some bricks and mortar. A few months ago, Mikkel created focused diligently on creating beers The story came full circle and the first beer brewed specifically for for a market of consumers whose the former homebrewer bought his inflight drinking, for SAS. “I’ve flown palates were 15 years ahead of those in mentor’s brewery. Talking about the with them my whole life – they are Europe. decision, Mikkel explains that “it’s an icon of aviation – so getting to This attitude has led to a huge hard to compete by importing beers work with them was an honour for a following for the brand in the States, from Europe,” undoubtedly made all Scandinavian.” which reached a climax last year when the harder by the fact there are 200 For him, the exciting part was Mikkeller hosted Copenhagen Beer breweries in San Diego alone. getting to take a whole bunch of his Celebration in Boston. “As a small When Mikkeller arrived, it initially beers onto a flight to see how they

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Danish Refugee Council. “Really, there things very well.” was a lot of stuff being said in the With great beers available on media and we just wanted to make our flights and in his concept restaurants, stance clear and do what we could to where else should we expect Mikkel help,” he explains. to push the boundaries? “There More recently, he has taught a group are some craft brewers in North of people with autism how to brew Korea,” he says with a twinkle in and they’ve set up a brewery called his eye. “They’re making beer, People Like Us. “It’s not a totally for sure. But they don’t get new idea – La Trappe in Belgium much access to information actually have autistic people about the brewing scene from working there too,” he tells me. outside.” Currently crowdfunding to build I ask whether he sees any its own brewery, the People Like Us potential issues with doing a project doesn’t have any financial ties collaboration brew in the Hermit to Mikkeller. “I didn’t want people Kingdom. “Obviously, there’s a lot of to get the wrong idea,” he explains. political shit, but it would be great So how can one man get involved to connect with the people there on in so many ideas? “I don’t think too this level.” I guess beer does have a much about it,” he says. “I just get a way of breaking down barriers and, feeling that something is missing in the having seen everything this guy has world and jump in and try to make it. done in the past year, I wouldn’t put Our team is able to do a lot of varied it past Mikkel to make it happen.

tasted under cabin pressure. “Some flavours, such as bitterness, are more pronounced, so we dialled that back in the recipe. It also makes sense to go easier on the carbonation than usual.” This attention to detail might be lost on some people, Mikkel admits: “A lot of people might not notice these changes, but all put together they add up to a better beer in the sky. Amazingly, a lot of thought has gone into making food taste better on flights and this was the first time anyone had thought about beer.” Every year, Mikkeller has also chosen a social project to support. Last year, it was the refugee crisis; the brewery created a special beer called HELP, with all proceeds going to the

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With so many great bars, you’re certainly in for a treat. And for such a small city, it’s hard to imagine how one brewery could have opened so many. “Do you think you can squeeze in any more?” I asked the man himself, jokingly. “Well, we have some ideas for a Mexican restaurant and our barrel room venue, Baghaven, will be open soon,” Mikkel tells me. What is amazing is that when you visit each Mikkeller bar around the world, every one has its own The Mikkeller identity. “We definitely aren’t running a franchise business,” Mikkel is keen to point out. With 28 different locations around the world, there’s a Guide to lot to explore and each bar is locally- oriented, reflecting the style of its host country. RELAUNCH 6 MAY! Visiting Mikkeller Tokyo is distinctly different to Mikkeller LA, but of course, all the while, every bar maintains the core elements that have given this brewery its esoteric reputation. And here in Copenhagen, you’ll find a range WORDS : Fraser Doherty of different bars that are each unique PHOTOGRAPHS : Kiva Brynaa & Zsolt Stefkofics n these pages, we share our and all worth a visit. tips to immerse yourself in Othe world of Mikkeller during your stay in the beautiful city of Copenhagen. As well as enjoying the variety of Mikkeller bars throughout the city, we’ll also stop by To-Øl’s brewpub, BRUS. Over a few glasses of their latest creations, we’ll learn all about their plans to bring high-end cuisine to the world of craft beer. Before calling it a night, we’ll also grab a pint with Søren Wagner, the founder of Fermentoren, one of the city’s original craft beer hangouts. He’ll tell us all about his latest venture, Dry and Bitter brewery, and why it’s making waves as one of the rising stars of the Danish scene.

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ØL & BRØD VIKTORIAGADE 6

We booked a table here for a midday MIKKELLER & FRIENDS boozy brunch to experience Mikkeller’s STEFANSGADE 35 modern take on the traditional Danish open sandwich. Specialising in Smørrebrød; This feminine, Scandinavian- sliced rye bread topped with the likes of dill style, multi-room bar is a great pickled herring with potatoes and mustard, representation of Mikkeller’s and smoked eel with scrambled egg and design aesthetic. Everything chives. here is designed to enhance the The dishes come paired with a carefully- experience of tasting these great chosen selection of Mikkeller beers, as well beers. With an amazing selection as the likes of Frederiksdal cherry wine and of beers on tap from Mikkeller, but Mikkeller / Meierer Beer Geek Riesling. also guest beers from many of the You can also discover an incredible range world’s best breweries, it’s a great of Danish, Norwegian and Swedish spirits. spot to try a range of unusual and You’ll find an extensive and ambitious hard-to-find brews. selection of aquavits, chosen to complement and enhance the food, ranging from rare vintages to more modern interpretations.

VICTORIAGADE VIKTORIAGADE 8

A few steps along the road, the first bar stop on our tour has to be where it all began. This minimalist drinking hole, tucked away down some steps, is a sort of Mecca for beer geeks. One of Mikkeller’s most company-defining decisions was to open this place at a very early stage of the journey. KOELSCHIP When it opened its doors, a spiritual home STEFANSGADE 35 for the brewery was instantly created. But it also meant it could control everything about Next door to Mikkeller and Friends is Mikkeller’s all-Belgian themed bar. how its beers were presented. With more than Walking through the door, you could be forgiven for believing you’d arrived 1,000 Mikkeller beers in existence, having staff in . With all of the best Trappist, lambic and new-age Belgian beers who know their way around the beer list and an available, you really get a sense of Mikkel’s respect for the motherland of so environment where these beers can be enjoyed many of the beer styles that have inspired his range. in the right way is crucial.

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RAMEN TO BIIRU GRIFFENFELDSGADE 28 / ENGHAVEVEJ 58 MIKROPOLIS VENDERSGADE 22 An authentic Japanese ramen joint, created in ‘A cocktail bar for beer geeks’ is probably the partnership with Bento best way to describe this cozy bar. Despite being Copenhagen. Walk in, focussed on spirits, it’s got ten beer taps and an select your dish from awesome bottle list. Designed to challenge your a ticket dispenser that taste buds, the bar produces its own range of looks like it’s fresh from tonics, sodas, bitters and other cocktail ingredients. the streets of Tokyo and The bar itself was made entirely from a single select your favourite oak tree; chopped, sanded and carved into a bar Mikkeller beer from top, 23 stools and six coated tables. Specialities an authentic vending include its Maple Old fashioned and a Whisky Sour machine. Mikkel created Bourbon Lambic beer. Its founders aimed to create a special Ramen beer a bar where cocktail types and beer lovers would for the occasion, so just feel equally at home. wait for your order then slurp it all down.

WARPIGS BREWPUB FLÆSKETORVET 25

In partnership with the cult American brewer 3 Floyds, creators of the heavily sought-after Dark Lord series, MIKKELLER & FRIENDS BOTTLESHOP Warpigs Brewhouse is the ultimate marriage of Danish TORVEHALLERNE, FREDERIKSBORGGADE 21 and American brewing. Walking through the doors, you can smell the faint aroma from one of Europe’s largest Torvehallerne is Copenhagen’s biggest market restaurant smokers operating out the back. for artisan food and drink, with plenty of small Serving a very meat-heavy menu of Texan-style outlets selling sourdough pizza, sushi and other barbeque, smoked meats, pickles, sides and relishes, the kinds of street food. The Mikkeller & Friends pub is one of the popular hangouts between sessions of Bottleshop features a wide selection of bottled MBCC; being just a stone’s throw from the Øksnehallen beers from Mikkeller, To Øl, Three Floyds and other venue in the city’s achingly cool Meatpacking . praiseworthy microbreweries from around the world. Here you’ll find the newest releases alongside some of the finest vintage beers available, as well as Mikkeller Spirits and wine. Explaining the shops name, Mikkel says: “All of our featured products are produced by people who share our mindset and our need to move boundaries; people we call friends.” You’ll find helpful staff who can talk you through the beers on the shelves and assist you in finding the perfect beer for your alfresco dining.

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Mikkeller Baghaven Refshalevej 169A, 1432 København K, Denmark

WORDS : Fraser Doherty PHOTOGRAPHS : Kiva Brynaa & Zsolt Stefkofics

fter cycling past Christiania and laughs. Heading up this latest imprint along a bumpy road into a more by Mikkeller on the Copenhagen Aderelict part of Copenhagen’s drinking landscape, he explains the docklands, we meet Michael Knoth background to what at first seems like outside this imposing barrel room. an unlikely move: “15 years ago, this Home to the company’s new sour and whole area was very alive”. Looking wild beer project, we’re excited to around now, it’s hard to see much learn more. The company’s Production evidence of life at all. Manager, he is a veteran of Danish “Before shipbuilding moved to South brewing. Having founded and sold the Korea, this piece of artificial land was very successful Gourmet Brewery some home to civil shipyards and all kinds years ago, he first came across Mikkel of factories making parts for boats,” he when he was still a home-brewing explains. Long since abandoned, the schoolteacher. warehouses and engine rooms have “He asked me to contract brew Beer been bought up by an imaginative Geek Breakfast for him,” he says. “After consortium of developers, including he told me the recipe, I said ‘you can’t the likes of Danish pension funds. do that!’ But, I agreed to brew it The site is flanked on one side by and now look at him!”, he the water and on the other by the famous Bjarke Ingels-designed trash incinerating power station, which has an artificial ski slope on its roof. “I think the idea is that after a certain number of kilos of CO2 it saves, the chimneys blow a smoke-ring,” Michael tells us. I guess you could say that Danes aren’t afraid of having ambitious ideas. The developers’ plan is ultimately for the area to become a desirable waterfront residential neighbourhood, with a sense of community and lots of great bars and restaurants. But, they know that to get there, they first need to

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put this block of reclaimed land on the packaging line. “We’ll have a window and then spontaneously ferment it – we some imagination for what this place map. Renting out buildings to artists, onto this from the street so that could drive it to Belgium and collect will become. “I think they’re food truck food entrepreneurs and the likes of passers-by can see bottles being filled”. some wild Lambic yeast for example”, guys”, says Michael. “The idea is for the Mikkeller, they hope to be pulling in The bar itself is already home to an Michael explains. massive site next door to become a sort large crowds of visitors to the area array of barrels and foeders, which will In the meantime, this custom-built of foodie Mecca.” starting in earnest this summer. be used to age all kinds of different trailer is used to transport freshly For visitors to MBCC, the best way to Moored on the harbour walls nearby Mikkeller beers and collaborations in brewed beer from Warpigs to Baghaven get there is by bike or taxi, but Michael are various houseboats, “This one is the years to come. for filling. Once the foeders have hopes that one day the public waterbus a sort of – how do you say – hippie Michael takes a lot of pleasure in worked their magic on the liquid, it’ll will be able to stop here, “These things commune,” Michael says pointing at a telling us about their latest toy, which is be over to Mikkeller’s Master Blender take a while, but it would be a dream colourful wooden vessel. “A short walk parked outside – a mobile koelschip (an to create the finished beers in the if you could jump on a ferry from town from here is Paper Island, a hot spot open-air vessel used to spontaneously blending tanks, before being pumped and just hop across the water to here.” for food trucks and foodies”. Clearly, ferment beer). Looking something into a champagne bottle filler. With a view across the water to these ramshackle waterfront properties like a steel burger van for now, it’s As we walk back around the building, Copenhagen’s old town and the famous have been turned into flourishing appearance doesn’t quite do justice there is another group of people doing ‘Little Mermaid’ statue, it’s easy to see destinations before. Along with others, to the innovation that it represents. the same thing as we are. Gesturing how this spot will soon become the the city’s famous Michelin-starred “What we’ll be able to do with this is at empty plots of rubble with their perfect place to enjoy great beers in Noma restaurant is even moving to a go to interesting places to brew wort hands, it’s clear that they, too, have the sunshine. nearby area of the docklands. And it might not take that long, knowing the speed at which Mikkeller moves. “We’ll be having the grand opening as part of MBCC,” Michael tells us, seemingly unfazed by the fact that the festival is mere weeks away. There are a couple of scrap cars to move and a kitchen and bar to fit out, but the vision for what they want this place to be is very clear. “We’ll have plenty of outdoor seating and big concrete blocks for people to hang out on when its warm, but also tables indoors so that we can host various events and parties,” Michael explains as he shows us around the building. A former pipe workshop, it has that ‘distressed’ vibe of peeling paint and exposed brickwork that many a bar has tried to recreate. Only, this is the real thing, thanks to its maybe a century of industrial service. Around the back, a classic car mechanic is in the middle of moving his old vehicles to a nearby garage so that his unit can be cleaned up and fitted with a spotless kitchen and

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veryone at Mikkeller HQ is looking a do something much more inclusive and fun,” little more tired than usual this morning. Søren says. EHaving just returned from running the Conceived back in the kitchen in Berlin half marathon, there are a few sore Vesterbrogade, where it all began, Mikkel thighs around. “We had a killer party at the and Jakob were concerned that their beer end of the run too,” explains Søren Runge, drinking was making them fat. Not wanting Mikkeller who heads up Mikkeller Running Club. to cut down on beer, they decided to start There was double reason to celebrate, running. “They had no idea it would as the run coincided with the grand grow into what it has become”, opening of the company’s new Berlin Søren says. bar on Torstraße in the heart of Set up mostly by local volunteers, the city’s Mitte district. Taking there are already chapters in part in the race were runners places as diverse as Sao Paolo, Running Club from MRC chapters from Russia and the Faroe Islands, around the world. People had where the company has journeyed from as far away as recently opened a bar. With more Liverpool and Moscow and the team than 100 members of the Tórshavn chapter, here was part of a group of 78 people who the club is testament to the excitement travelled together on a bus from Copenhagen. around the opening of a Mikkeller bar in this Inspired by Mikkel’s own love of running seemingly unlikely locale. – he was once the fastest man in Denmark – It is of course no surprise that the biggest MRC is a worldwide, grassroots movement chapters are in cities where Mikkeller has a of people who meet up once a month to run, bar, especially in its home of Copenhagen. then enjoy beer together. “So many people It is said that around 10% of the population take running too seriously – we wanted to here runs regularly and, with it being such a

WORDS : Fraser Doherty

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popular sport, there are MRC groups to offer a 10k route for participants at Baghaven is 400m long. Despite “It’ll be another great party if he pulls going out almost every night of the the festival again this year. coming at the end of this epic beer it off,” Søren promises. In true Mikkeller week. “A year ago, we would have When the brewery recently opened festival, with all the hangovers that style, it has brewed a beer specifically hoped to reach 100 chapters by now. Mikkeller Downtown LA, more than entails, this promises to be a fun end to for the running club. “It’s a great IPA, We’re at 150 and could well hit 200 by 200 people turned up for the first the week. Mikkel even hopes to use the but we made a few alterations to make the end of the year,” he says, visibly run. Again in the US, Mikkeller plans opportunity to beat the Danish it easier to drink as part of excited by how fast his baby has grown. to host a World Beer Run event in record for the ‘Masters’ Beer Mile,” he tells me. The company has hosted ‘World partnership with 18th Street Brewing age group category of the If you’d like to get Beer Run’ events in places such in Indiana, whose founder Drew Fox competition. involved in the race, as the small Portuguese town of is also a runner. Their dream is to one To achieve this, he’ll be sure to register for a Cominha, home to the Artbeerfest. day host a World Beer Run in every have to run four laps and ticket at the Mikkeller The town’s 10,000 population more city where Mikkeller has a presence. drink four beers in under web shop. You can than doubles during this world- As part of MBCC, there will be a five minutes and four also check out some famous beer festival and MRC plans 5k run for participants, with stops for seconds. Adding to the more information eight or nine beers along the way. On event’s excitement, there about setting Sunday 14 May, there will be a chance Mikkel has invited up your own MRC for any eager runners to take part in along the previous chapter: “All you need the Danish Championships of the ‘Beer “It’s not about being the best runner – train with sparkling water. Not only do winner to defend his is a bar that’s willing Mile’ competition. it’s about being the best beer drinker,” you get used to drinking carbonated title. “Hopefully he’ll to give the participants a free Originally started in the USA (where Søren says, laughing. The competition liquid at high speeds while you’re join us at MBCC the drink at the end of the run,” else?), the concept is simple and might sound like a joke, but there is running, but you can safely drive a car night before for a few beers, so they’re Søren explains. They don’t have to Let’s show the world awesome. Entrants run a 400m circuit, a long list of rules and, unfortunately afterwards. on an even footing on Sunday morning,” already stock Mikkeller beers; the team you can run on beer down a beer and then repeat it three for some, vomiting is punished with Conveniently enough for the Søren jokes. I look forward to watching can help to sort that out. more times – ultimately running a mile, another lap of the circuit. planning of these antics, the route this pair battle it out in this truly mind- - Søren Runge punctuated by four refreshing beers. Apparently the secret is also to around the barrel room at Mikkeller boggling feat of sporting ability. More info: mikkellerrunningclub.dk/

30 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 31 KINN BRYGGERI AIN’T NO MOUNTAIN HIGH

WORDS : Richard Croasdale

Brewing the old-fashioned way,” bought up and destroyed by the big Kinn Bryggeri takes its exclaims the front page of Kinn boys decades earlier, so the only notion name from the small Bryggeri’s website, alongside we had of craft came from what we “ island of Kinn, where an illustration of a Nordic-looking could create in our kitchens. gentlemen in distinctly old-fashioned “The joy of making something was Espen and his wife skis. This isn’t just a marketing gimmick my motivation,” he says. “From using Ann-Magritt were though – from day one, founder Espen juniper extract in the mash, gradually married in 2005. Lothe has been fascinated with tricky my knowledge grew and the quality of traditional brewing techniques, from the ingredients improved.” The island’s distinctive open fermentation and wild yeast to This is something of an mountain, Kinnaklova, barrel-ageing, and his growing success understatement, as Espen began has been used by suggests he has struck a chord. competing for and winning awards from mariners as a navigation Starting out, as so many do, as a Norbygg, the Norwegian Association of teenage homebrewer, Espen spent Home-brewers, and was named Home point for centuries. the early 2000s immersed in Norway’s Brewer of the Year two years in a row. thriving homebrew scene, learning It wasn’t until the beginning of 2007 his trade among such Nowegian craft though, when Espen was recuperating pioneers as Kjetil Jikiun and Jens from a broken leg, that he reached the Maudal, who would later go on to found momentous decision to leave teaching Nøgne Ø. He recalls that the passion and open his own brewery. of this community felt like a direct In addition to his old homebrew reaction to the sorry state of Norway’s buddies at Nøgne Ø, Espen had forged commercial beer industry at the time. relationships with other successful “What you have to understand is that Norwegian craft brewers, including Norway was not like the UK. We didn’t Haandbryggeriet, Ægir, Baatbryggeriet, have that group of small, traditional Lillehammer Bryggeri and Små Vesen. breweries keeping the old styles and This gave him access not only to advice, skills alive alongside the macro lager but also to second-hand equipment: a brands. For us, everything had been malt mill from Haandbryggeriet, boiling

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vats and vortex unit from Små Vesen, process we’d used up to that point. We anaerobic brews. The yeast flourishes and mash vats, hot water tank, storage also brought on new employees and in abundant oxygen, giving a mild, tanks and open fermentation vats from started planning for a new site, which round, mature flavour, so it is possible Tine Dairy. For much of the two years we finally moved into in the summer of to create strong-tasting beers that are it took him to assemble everything he 2013, increasing our capacity from 800 non-aggressive. needed, this growing pile of kit sat to 3500 litres.” “Another advantage is that the yeast forlornly in Espen’s back garden. But what of the beer itself, and thrives so well in the open that we can Through a combination of seed Espen’s self-imposed injunction recycle it many times more than in funding from Innovation Norway, to do things “the old fashioned closed tanks. If you treat the yeast well, support from his family and even way”? The approach that would it will repay you with the best beer.” renovation loans on his home, Espen eventually become Kinn’s signature It is probably fair to say that Espen is finally opened the doors of Kinn was borne out of both Espen’s own a little obsessive about his yeast, but in Bryggeri AS in April 2009. tastes – he has deep respect for the a good way. Having started out brewing In the early days, Espen was on his Belgian brewing tradition – and the with Wyeast 1318 London III “a own, brewing, tapping, washing, sales, commercial need to stand out in a dependable variety, and good for top- deliveries, and more. By the end of its highly competitive market. harvesting,” Espen later moved on to a first year, Kinn was producing around “By the time I started, the quality Trappist high gravity strain; something 700 litres each week, in eleven different of Norwegian craft beers was already he’d worked with a lot during his home varieties; just enough volume to keep excellent,” he recalls. “So to make brew years, and which gives great the wolf from the door. But the seeds of an impression I knew I had to be versatility for a lot of Belgian styles. success had been planted. With Espen’s just as brilliant as Nøgne Ø and “I heard a theory once that, before brother-in-law lending a vital second Haandbryggeriet,” recalls Espen. pair of hands on the production side, “I didn’t want to create a Kinn began to gain a foothold among miniature version of an industrial respected bars and stores in major brewery, where you press a towns, going from a local start-up to a button and never see the product more widely recognised brand. until it reaches the glass,” he Things really shifted up a gear in says. “Open, oxygen-rich early 2011, when Kinn began selling fermentation vats were the only to the Norwegian Wine Monopoly, true way for me. Vinmonopolet. This was such a “Open tanks bring a mix of significant contract – and sales went advantages and drawbacks. so unexpectedly well – that Espen On the down side, there is suddenly found himself under pressure more manual work involved, to increase capacity. and it takes floorspace. But “We bought a semi-automatic bottle these are small compared filler and labelling unit, which was a to the advantages: beers huge relief from the hand-labelling with flavour that surpasses

34 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 35 discussion it was One side-effect of Kinn’s rise has decided to use the been to take Espen away from the “Father of New day-to-day brewing. This is an ironic Norwegian”, challenge familiar to many passionate, Ivar Aasen. Of hobbyist brewers, whose skill leads to course, Oda commercial success. has developed his However, Espen has refused to portrait in her own take this lying down and last summer inimitable way, but it returned to his old brewery in really is him we are Strandgata, to take the helm of a pilot honouring. Since then, brewkit, featuring open fermentation we really understood the science of beer-blogger Hugo Ivan Hatland has vats for 25, 400 and 800 litre batches. yeast, people believed the sticks that pointed out that the figure resembles With special vessels for bacteria and brewers used to skim off the foam had the former parson of Kinn, a happy wild yeast, separate from the normal magical properties. When these yeasty coincidence perhaps.” brewery lines, as well as a dedicated, sticks were used to stir the next batch, Today Kinn is thriving, with 14 temperature-controlled oak cask fermentation started over again, and employees, a strong brand and – thanks storeroom and a cool cellar below nobody really knew why. Perhaps this is to Anne-Magritt’s work in developing ground, this is a playground specifically why wizards always carry sticks?!” its international channels – distribution designed for Espen; a workshop for Almost as distinctive as the beers in Denmark, Sweden, , UK, developing new recipes, ideas, and themselves, Kinn’s branding is Russia, , Belgium and Spain. new methods. beautifully simple, drawing on local Just as satisfying for Espen, the One of his hopes for the future is to history to create something that looks brewery has earned a reputation for explore more traditional Norwegian and feels unmistakably Norwegian. nurturing new talent, just as he himself styles, which he believes are due for a “I got to know a local graphic artist, was once helped up. resurgence in a market still dominated Oda Valle, quite early in the brewery’s “Over the years, we’ve taken on by German, Belgian, British and planning. She was just starting out at many great brewers, several of whom American styles. that time, and I believe we were her have gone on to start up on their own. “Scandinavia now has some of first clients. We hit it off and started Anders Cooper started Austmann the best breweries in the world, but to work on our branding. My idea was and bought our old brewing kits from most people would find it hard to pin that the beer drinker should have an Strandgata. Tom Dahlberg started down styles associated with us. I’ve enjoyable experience all the way from Harstad Håndverksbryggeri where been working with things like juniper first catching sight of the bottle on the he brews English styles in open and cloud berries, which are very shelf, to consigning it to the bottle bank fermentation vats. Pål Rolfsen started Norwegian, but there are old regional for recycling. Monkeybrew in , and Bjarte styles that have been largely forgotten “I wanted a dependable, traditional Halvorsen launched Salikatt in the wider beer world. I’d like to bring figure on the label, and after some in Stavanger.” them back.”

36 FERMENT MAGAZINE BREWSKI Fancy a BREWSKI?

Richard Croasdale meets the brewer who defies every craft cliché in the book

arcus Hjalmarsson, founder and head brewer of Brewski in south- Mwest Sweden, is full of surprises. Surprise number one came when he launched a full-scale commercial craft brewery with no track record and no experience; a complete unknown to Sweden’s well established beer and brewing community. “I was a beer enthusiast for a number of years, having had my first micro beer experience in Canada in the mid 90s,” says Marcus. “At that time, I asked myself why we didn’t have microbreweries in Sweden. So I’d been thinking about it since I was 19, but I knew I wasn’t interested in brewing at home, so it didn’t really go much further than dreaming; I certainly wasn’t part of anything you’d call a beer ‘community’. “By the time I hit 37, I’d saved a bit of money and my kids had grown up a bit. I’d also read a lot of books on beer chemistry and brewing technique, and felt it was the right time to

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make things happen.” front-and-centre when discussing Brewski’s “I have problems settling down and being for in his beers, and will he ever be sufficiently So that’s precisely what he did. The first success (where many craft breweries would satisfied with whatever it is that I’m doing,” satisfied to stop tweaking and prove the beer Marcus ever brewed was on his own probably say something vague about passion he admits. “I’m never satisfied that a beer is doubters wrong? commercial-scale brewkit. The second and innovation). good enough, so I’ll always try and improve on “Sometimes, when you taste a beer you can surprise is that his beers were really rather “That’s the edge of everything when it it next time. The only brew I’m really satisfied feel the brewer in there – it’s laying-on-hands good from day one, and Brewski quickly comes to food and drink. It’s 100% focused with now is the Mango Fever. The last three work,” he explains. “Now I can say Mango made a name for itself and its distinctive on hygiene, then if we have time left over we batches have been very similar, but that’s after Fever is a signature, it’s an expression of fruit ales. Characteristically though, Marcus can experiment and have a good time. But the I’ve changed it maybe 60 times. myself. My personality is in that beer. And I dismisses any idea that he was doing anything most important thing of all is that we brew “I don’t think microbreweries should be can’t really say that about the other beers I’m particularly groundbreaking here, and offers a cleanly. I’m basically a janitor – I’m cleaning consistent. Of course in quality we should, making; they’re great, but they’re not more humdrum explanation for his style. all the fucking time. Everybody thinks it’s but not when it comes to recipes. We need to finished yet.” “A lot of people think that was really clever, a luxury thing to be a brewer, but it’s really develop our recipes. Of course, that means One thing that will come as no surprise is but it was really just a coincidence,” he says. hard work and you have to be completely people say to me ‘the reason you changed that Marcus has no plans to take a back-seat “I was angry about the quality of the hops scrupulous before you can be creative.” recipes is because you can’t be consistent’. If as the brewery grows, and is determined to we were getting, so I had to find a solution, This makes sense once you grasp just how they want to believe that then fine. If you’re keep brewing day-to-day, dismissing “master something to replace the bad hops with. much of a perfectionist Marcus is, though happy the recipe in those first few batches is brewers who no longer want to sweat”. I thought it was a simple job; I was after a this often manifests itself in surprising ways. as good as it’s going to get, then good for you – “I could easily walk away from my brewery tropical taste and aroma, so why not try the Rather than striving for total consistency I just don’t see the point in that.” today and live on it, but I refuse to give my actual fruit? There was no genius at all in that, from brew to brew, he will deliberately tweak This is clearly something Marcus feels position as head brewer away. If I did that, it it was only common sense.” recipes during production in search of the passionate about, and marks a radically would become somebody else’s brewery, even Having come from a background in the food perfect formula, meaning each batch of a different outlook from most of the craft beer if I still owned it. There’s still a lot of work to industry, Marcus puts hygiene and technology particular beer will most likely be different. world. So what kind of perfection is he striving do, and I never leave a job half-finished.”

38 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 39 BRUS Taproom Guldbergsgade 29F, 2200 Copenhagen

f you’ve been a member of Beer52 of craft beer legend. The pair were during the past couple of years, students at a ‘direct democracy-based Iyou’ll know we are huge fans of high school’ in Copenhagen called the beers that To-Øl produces. In this Det Fri Gymnasium; a place where month’s MBCC-themed beer box, students can learn about what interests we’ve included an awesome bottle of them and the walls are covered in art its latest creation, A Peeling Pale. and graffiti. At assembly each week, A key part of Copenhagen’s craft students and teachers are given one beer fraternity, these guys’ creations vote each to decide issues relating to have long been a regular feature in the school. craft beer bars across the city. But And if this level of respect for since 2016, the brewery has been children’s individual freedom sounds translating its immaculate sense extreme, that’s only the start of it. of style into opening its own bars, After class, these high school students including most recently in Oslo. also got to hold parties, drinking beer The story of how Tobias and Tore and talking casually with their peers got started on their journey to create and teachers. what has been rated the world’s ninth After remarkably managing to best brewery has become a thing convince the management that high

WORDS : Fraser Doherty PHOTOGRAPHS : Kiva Brynaa

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school students should learn to packaged and expertly brewed beers brew beer, they began brewing in around the world, To Øl decided to earnest. After Det Fri invested in some seize the opportunity to make another homebrew equipment, the canteen bold addition to its hometown’s craft soon resembled a small brewery. beer scene, with the opening of a new Brewing beer was added to the brewery and taproom: BRUS. curriculum and, unsurprisingly, there For us, it was a huge pleasure to be was a huge interest in learning about it. invited along to the unofficial pre- The boys and their teacher were opening of the dazzling new venue pulling all-nighters, experimenting with during Copenhagen Beer Week last recipes and enjoying the beers they year. Based in a former iron foundry brewed. Soon, they were brewing at and locomotive factory, the engines home and ultimately began selling of this stunning old building were their beers. definitely set to start running again, The rest, as they say, is history. with the local hype surrounding the They went on to successfully market opening being apparent even to us as some incredible beers, including the outsiders to the city. likes of Fuck Art, This is Architecture, Based in the hipster-friendly area of featuring a photograph of the Nørrebro (or Nørrebronx as the locals unfinished 105-storey Ryugyong Hotel like to say), amid shawarma places and in ’s capital, . coffee shops, the venue is a massive And in 2016, after a number of 750 sq m home to not only a taproom, years successfully exporting uniquely but also a bottleshop, a brewery and barrel room. This is the sort of beer bars; places where people of all sorts bar we salivate over. feel welcome and comfortable. The What’s most exciting though is the battleground for winning hearts and way it welcomes people of all types; minds will be in spaces like this; it’s easy to picture mums with their beautifully furnished, minimalist, airy strollers enjoying a daytime coffee, and bright. with the space being just as appealing And when we catch up with Henry for first dates in the evening. On top from the To Øl team, he shares our of this, BRUS is also brewing, blending viewpoint on the future of craft bars. and macerating its own drinks and “What we wanted to create here cocktails that are kegged and served was a place where people could come straight from the taps alongside beers. and try some seriously fresh beers Until now, most craft beer bars and enjoy great snacks and bar food,” around the world have typically he says. “We’re doing everything – been pretty masculine; featuring brewing and bottling beer, serving it to graffiti, steel fixtures, dark lighting drink here or to take away, there isn’t and, where music is played at all it’s really anything like it in Copenhagen.” typically rock and metal. As a result, People can even pick up a keg and most of the beer bars we visit cater strap it to their cargo bike to take only to a certain stereotype of craft home for a party. Doing so many beer drinker. things in one space might sound What we really need, if craft beer frantic, but somehow the place feels is to continue its advance from beer very easygoing. We really do hope it geeks further into the mainstream, succeeds and serves as a blueprint for

are beer bars that don’t feel like beer more bars to copy. Trout Man : The ILLUSTRATION

42 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 43 DRY & BITTER Brewing it for himself Fraser Doherty catches up with Dry and Bitter’s Søren Wagner, to discuss his new ‘beers for me’ series

PHOTOGRAPHS: Kiva Brynaa / Dry & Bitter

aving visited Copenhagen for MBCC veteran of the Copenhagen craft beer scene. last year, we had already spent Returning to MBCC this year for the second Hsome time drinking at Fermentoren, time, Søren’s story as a homebrewer turned along with many of the other people who publican turned brewer is one that charts the came along to the festival. It’s a popular rise of craft beer itself. hangout for brewers and visitors during the “As a kid, my Dad would always let me have Beer Week. One of the original craft beer a sip of his beer when we were doing ‘man spots in Copenhagen, it’s always a great bar work’ together,” Søren reflects. His curiosity to discover both up-and-coming Danish about this strange bitter liquid grew and by breweries and beers from many of the best the age of eighteen he had started brewing breweries around the world. it for himself. Slowly, he became more This time though, we’re visiting for a more interested in starting his own brewery – first exciting reason than just to share a pint. As by contracting and ultimately by finding his part of our Great Mikkeller Box at Beer52, own location. we’re including a bottle of Dry and Bitter’s He was taught to brew by Shaun Hill awesome Christian Bale Ale. And meeting from the nearby Norrebro Brygghus, who me for a couple of glasses is the brewery’s ultimately also paid for his brewing course founder and head brewer, Søren Wagner, who at the Carlsberg Scandinavian School of also co-founded the bar itself. Brewing. After completing the course, side by Having recently hosted a huge party for its side with his Masters, he found an abandoned fifth birthday, Fermentoren is something of a dairy in Gørløse, just north of Copenhagen.

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he laughs. During the Beer Week, he’ll be inviting American brewers such as Jester King up to Gørløse to do some collaborations. “I’ve got a couple of foeders that need to be infected by the funk lords of the USA,” he laughs. “The Danish craft beer scene wouldn’t be what it is if it weren’t for Mikkeller; they’ve put this country on the map in beer terms”, Søren says. Having opened a second bar in , Denmark’s second city, Søren has a lot on his plate. “I’m excited by how fast the scene is changing, it’s no longer just a nerdy thing. It’s becoming common property, appealing to a wide range of people,” he says. “At the end of the day, beer is the “The skeleton was there, I just needed got the opportunity to first showcase drink of revolutions. It is the people’s to add the equipment,” he explains. his beers at the All In Beer Festival in drink. Sure, we’re not curing cancer, And, with that, he was in business Gothenburg and at last year’s MBCC. but we have a chance to show people and began by creating a number He calls his Christian Bale Ale the what we stand for.” Having organised of IPAs that have since become beginning of his ‘beers for me’ series, a fundraiser party during the refugee highly rated on RateBeer. “The San for which he has been creating beers crisis, Søren got a sense that beer can Diego breweries have been a big that he loves to drink himself. be about something bigger. “It was life- inspiration to the style of IPAs that “It was really one of those Bob affirming. Three kegs became 43 in two I’ve been wanting to brew,” he tells Dylan recipes, written on the back of days, 700 people came along and we me. With ambitions to produce some a napkin,” Søren laughs. Launched a raised £8k,” he says. of Europe’s finest IPAs and sours, he little over a year ago, it has been one A DJ on the side, Søren will also of the beers that put this newcomer be playing funk, soul and hip hop brewery on the map, along with the at London Craft Beer Festival. “Our likes of his Dank and Juicy IPA and following has really exploded in the Misunderstood Lager. UK”, he explains. Thanks in part to On the topic of how he comes up having family in the North of England, with recipes, Søren explains: “I just put he has built friendships by attending whatever is in my mind into a glass.” the likes of the Hop City festival in Craft beer brings He’s excited to be bringing his Crimson Leeds. Having done collaborations greatness. People drink Queen to MBCC this year: “It’s a young with breweries including Buxton and Flemish Red, aged in Burgundy. It Cloudwater, he’s certainly punching it and wonder how they takes 400g of black cherries per litre above his weight for a brewery that’s can make it better to make – it’s like a dessert in a bottle!” two years old.

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Among the selection of beers the brothers will Alefarm be presenting at MBCC are: This Copenhagen-based brewery focuses mainly on rustic farmhouse ales • Local King – a collaboration with Jester King/ and funky sours. Brekeriet Local Option, a barrel aged sour ale with sea “We are very excited to have been invited back for this year’s MBCC,” says buckthorn and raspberries founder Andreas Skytt Larsen. “Last year we were invited to pour in the Brekeriet is a small-scale craft brewery in the • Swedish Ninja – a collab with Pipeworks Scandinavian talent section, but this year we’re in for the real deal! We are south of Sweden, founded by three brothers: Brewing Co, a dry hopped sour ale. bringing a lot of sour stuff, and we are particularly excited to present Nordic Fredrik, Christian and André Ek, each of whom • DubbelCassis – its double version of Cassis, with twice the amount of blackcurrants Grape, a barrel fermented saison aged on Danish sour cherries, and Shadows came from different backgrounds in business and • Komkommer – a cucumber sour ale & Silhouettes, a double dry hopped barrel fermented sour saison.” food engineering. Having started out in the small village Djurslöv outside of Malmö in 2012, the brewery moved in 2015 to newly renovated facilities of beer making and a great interest in the product in Landskrona. itself, we want to make and deliver products in Brekeriet is the only brewery in Sweden to which you can taste the authenticity and handicraft All-in Brewing, Sweden ferment using nothing but wild yeast and bacteria. that fills each glass. Our ambition is to promote It also secondary ferments many of its beers with beer culture and the diversity of beer to a bigger All-in is bringing a new batch of its Hustle imperial with berries or fruit in order to further develop the public, and open the door to the more exciting hazelnuts to MBCC. It says this batch is a little sweeter than the taste experience. Fredrik says: “With our knowledge world of real craft beer.” previous incarnations, and a definite improvement. “It’s awesome to be a part of MBCC,” says All-in’s Pelle Frost. “I think Mikkel has done a lot for the craft beer scene and this is a great place to meet other brewers for collaboration and fun.” Alpha State

A tiny and elusive brewery from Kent, England, bringing an eclectic range of thought-provoking beers brewed specifically for MMBC. Its headline brew is “Kiss The Alderman”, a 9% stout brewed with UK absurdist comedian Cascade Brewing Bob Mortimer. Cascade Brewing has been a pioneer in the sour beer renaissance since 2006, and is the Owner Jon Queally says: “This particular beer is aged on mocha-soaked oak chips and vanilla. Our intention was proud innovator of the Northwest Sour Ale. Unencumbered by stylistic guidelines, its that the vanilla and mocha was to be noticeably present – almost like highlighting existing flavours from the malt distinctive sour beer blends feature fruit-forward, barrel-aged ales that offer a complex bill – without distracting too much from a traditional stout. Basically we wanted to still be able to recognise a good array of flavours derived from seasonal, northwest grown ingredients. Its beers are stout without searching for it buried among a huge artificial adjunct bomb, which unfortunately has become more brewed at its original brewery in Southwest Portland, then blended and aged at the and more common. A mocha and vanilla kiss on a rich flavoursome beer, if you will.” nearby blending house, which holds more than 1,700 oak barrels and nine foudre tanks.

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Creature Comforts Creature Comforts was founded in Athens, Georgia USA, by brewers David Stein and Adam Beauchamp, and local entrepreneur Derek Imes. It started life in a beautiful 13,000 square foot historic warehouse building in downtown Athens, originally built in the 1940’s as a Chevy dealership. The team has since grown At MBCC, the team will be considerably, including the addition of Chris Herron as CEO and pouring: Blake Tyers, a veteran and forward thinking home brewer. • Two different Berliners, 2017 has seen the brewery focused on its expansion into a second one with raspberries and facility, as well as wrapping up its community-driven campaign yuzu and a second with called Get Comfortable, which has raised awareness and funds massive dry hops. for the community’s greatest needs (last year it generated over • A new version of its $65,000 for the fund and this year’s goal is $100,000). Dark Matter barrel-aged “I’m really excited to be pouring Emergence at the MBCC,” says imperial stout, which has a lot of body and tastes of Adam. “This beer was our first foray into mixed culture, barrel chocolate and oak. aged beers and is to date one of my favourite beers we’ve ever Flying Couch • An IPA “somewhat produced. This will likely be the last time this beer is available to inspired” by the New the public until we brew it again. The beer carries a stunning wine Flying Couch Brewing was founded in 2011 by Peter Sonne, though the team has since England style. Dry hops are and barrel character, which melds perfectly with the fermentation expanded to a still-compact four, with the addition of Kasper Gerdes, Kim Christiansen added in two rounds, first profile from our house mixed culture. It has a balanced acidity and Michael Aron. The brewery itself is composed of a four-kettle brewkit with a yearly during active fermentation which makes it immensely drinkable.” capacity of 1,400 hectolitres. It brews handcrafted, high quality beer with an edge, and then a few days prior inspired by brewers and brewing traditions from all over the world. to cooling.

The Booth Founders Brewing The Booth Brewing Co. began in May through many changes and the company Company 2013 as a small pub in an alleyway of grew fast. Founders is one of the Gyeongnidan, . It was founded The Booth has collaborated with Mikkeller most successful and best- by Korean medicine doctor Heeyoon Kim, to create Taedonggang , South recognised craft breweries financial analyst Sunghoo Yang and The Korea’s triumphant answer to the North’s in America, and has recently Economist correspondent Daniel Tudor, Taedonggang Beer. turned its attention to the who wrote the infamous article “Fiery food, But the brewery’s ambition to create international market. Its All boring beer” in which he called out South the best beers did not stop there. In Day IPA, a 4.7% session IPA, is Korean beers as being worse than North order to brew truly innovative local the market leader in the US, Korea’s Taedonggang beer. The three beer, it established its own micro- the #3 overall IPA and the #1 friends had a simple philosophy: to spread brewery in Pangyo and acquired craft beer in a can. This year the love of its craft beer so that everyone a brewery in Eureka, California. will see the brewery expand can enjoy it at affordable prices. The Booth has consistently its exciting and innovative Back then, the brewery only had one put out amazing beers using barrel ageing programme to beer, Bill’s Pale Ale, on tap. From there, The unique recipes that wowed include six beers. Booth Brewing Co. always looked for ways the Korean population again to make the best beer in Korea. It went and again.

50 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 51 ONES TO WATCH

Great Leap Stillwater Artisanal Great Leap Brewing is the first craft brewery in , China, and proudly incorporates traditional Chinese Started in 2010, Stillwater Artisanal is the brainchild of Baltimore ingredients into its brews. Founded by Carl Setzer and Liu Fang, Great Leap first opened for business in October native Brian Strumke, whose past life as an internationally renowned 2010 at Original #6 in Doujiao . Its range has since grown from four beers in one taproom to twenty taps electronica DJ and producer strangely led him down a path to across three locations. crafting some of the world’s highest rated beers. In spring 2013, it opened Flagship Brewpub #12, expanding its brewing capacity and broadening production to A proudly nomadic brewery, in its first year Stillwater Artisanal more than 40 different craft beers every year. 2014 saw the opening of its newest restaurant/brewpub, Great Leap was ranked #2 in the “Best New Brewers In the World” category by #45. Its fourth facility, on the site of its original production-capable brewery, is located in Tian Xian Yu, and is home RateBeer, and has remained in the global ‘Top 100’ ever since. The to its Great Wall Barrel Programme. Led by the Wall Builder Imperial Stout, its barrel programme released a range rapid success generated great demand for Stillwater Artisanal and of inaugural brews in 2016. the beer is now distributed in more than 40 US States, as well as Craft beer is more than just a product at Great Leap Brewing. It is a responsibility to build a craft beer community Canada, Europe, South America, Asia and Australia. in Beijing. It set out with the goal of brewing world-class beers, of which Beijing would be proud. Now its stated What makes Stillwater ‘Artisanal’ though? As brewing took the goal is to put Great Leap beer in the hands of as many people as possible, both in China and around the globe. place of Brian’s musical career, the need for a creative release was only partially met. In fact, Brian considers Stillwater to be more of an art project/collective, where collaborations with like-minded visionaries leads to boundary-pushing concepts and creations. Stillwater Artisanal continues to create unique and impressive Stockholm Brewing Company Stockholm Brewing Company can brews. All the while, each facet of Stillwater continues to resolve be found in the New Talent section into a clearer, though never fully-defined, picture as the collective In 2010, Stockholm Brewing at MMBC, pouring some of its keeps evolving. The Stillwater goal of synthesising art and beer Co.’s journey began with two favourite beers, including: continues to surprise and inspire. childhood friends wanting to • Hallonsour – its raspberry sour, drink fresh, local and organic versus a barrel-aged version of the same beer: compare and contrast. beer. Niklas Jakobson and • George – a Brett IPA collaboration Tomas Hallgren started to with Beavertown, as part of the home brew at every available London brewer’s fifth Birthday Orebro Brygghus opportunity. Niklas was Party. On the taps: running a wine importing • Nedward (as in Nedward Flanders) Örebro Brygghus is a small craft • Vips business, specialising in – a champagne barrel aged brewery that opened in June 2016 and • Passion für Berlin – its natural wines, and this Flanders Reds, which spent three is located at Aspholmen in Örebro. acclaimed Passionfruit influenced the desire to months on organic raspberries. Drawing on both tradition and the Berliner Weisse use organic products. The This will be pouring from magnum • What Gose Around… – latest beer trends, its mission is ambition to brew beer grew and 75cl champagne bottles, simple: to brew quality beers salty and sour stronger and, pretty soon, because that’s just how they roll in the brewers would want to • Saison des Brasseurs – Stockholm. they decided to open a drink, covering everything one of Mikkels favourites from ale to pilsner and • Milk Stout 16% small brewery. sour cream flavoured • Kokakaffe –a coffee- At the end of 2012, after a brief stay at Grevturegatan, garden in Rosendal – remains important to the brewery. with fruit. infused they found the perfect place in an old paper bag factory Working closely with its sister company, Wine Trade, “We just couldn’t be • Hallon – Raspberry in a garage in Södermalm, Stockholm´s vibrant southern Stockholm Brewing Company has been at the forefront more excited about Berliner Weisse island. With the help of Niklas Lenkel, friend and in-house of bridging the gap between the worlds of beer and wine. being invited to MBCC • All-in Imperial Stout – a engineer, the first commercial craft brewery inside the tolls It has a barrel room where beer is aged in oak barrels, before we even turn one sherry-oaked version of opened its doors. previously used for natural wines, and the brewery routinely year old!” its collaboration with All Since 2013, production has been organically certified adds grapes and berries and experiments with wild yeast. In Brewing. under the EU certification body, and the use of organic In 2015, after a long legal process, it was the first brewery in and locally-sourced ingredients – such as wild elderflower Sweden to gain the rights to serve samples of beer directly from parks in Södermalm or rhubarb and grapes from the from the brewery.

52 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 53 sorry international folks! UK only for now,

Get the Great “The world of beer is a modern, rapidly changing world, which as a consumer can be hard to follow. Beer52’s beer club makes that happen for you. Lean back, relax and enjoy a beer - Beer52 will do Mikkeller Box the hard work for you.” - Mikkel Borg Bjergso

As a visitor to MBCC, you’re entitled to claim “The Great Mikkeller Box” BEER52 Eight beers, a FOR FREE - just pay £5.95 p&p copy of Ferment and snack ENTER CODE: MBCC at Beer52.com for £24 each month. HAVEN MUSIC FESTIVAL

he National is arguably one of the most Denmark, the friendship between the three highly regarded rock bands to have flourished and, finding they shared many of A CREATIVE Temerged from the US in recent years, the same interests and values, it wasn’t long thanks to its knack for pairing memorable before they began talking about ways of melodies with lyrical intimacy and heartfelt working together. performance. They’ve also always struck “The band was in town to play a big show me in interview as very thoughtful, humble at an arena called The Forum, and Jacob musicians, with a great respect for craft. So and Mikkel took us down to Refshaløen, a I jumped at the chance to catch up with former shipyard where Mikkeller’s barrel Aaron Dessner, the band’s guitarist and co- room is now,” Aaron says. “It was this crazy songwriter – in the midst of a US tour – to talk post-industrial landscape, but Mikkel and about Denmark, art and his long-standing Jacob told me the people who ran it were friendship with Mikkel Borg Bjergsø. really cool. We started playing with the idea Dessner’s connection to Denmark goes back of holding an unconventional music festival HAVEN a long way. The National first played there out there; more than just bands on a stage. in 2005, at Loppen, a rock club in From the beginning, we wanted it to the city’s bohemian Christiania be an art festival, a beer festival district, and quickly realised and a food festival too, with all the Danes felt a special affinity of those elements integrated. with their music. The feeling “This idea came at a time was definitely reciprocated, when The National as a band and it was in Copenhagen’s was getting pretty tired of renowned venue Vega two playing the same venues years later in 2007 that Aaron and festivals, where you can met Stine, who he would later basically just cut and paste marry. Through Stine, he also the experience into a muddy became friends with a Danish field anywhere in the world. I Army officer named Jacob had also just started a music Alsing. The pair hit it off right away. festival in Wisconsin called Eaux Claires “Jacob was the first friend I made in with Justin Vernon from Bon Iver, which Denmark and he came along to a lot of our brought together all kinds of different artists shows, and sometimes brought his friend to explore how these things could be done Mikkel with him,” recalls Aaron. “We’d sit differently.” back stage, drinking the beers that Mikkel The idea of collaborating to create the brought in, and I could tell this was something Haven festival was undoubtedly born that special and unusual. So when Jacob told day, but began to gain momentum when me he was considering leaving the Army culinary entrepreneur and food activist Claus and joining Mikkeller, I said he definitely Meyer (who co-founded Noma and became should. So it was a combination of friendship the figurehead of the New Nordic Cuisine and being interested in this incredible movement) came on board. craftsmanship at Mikkeller that brought us “Claus was another friend I’d met through together.” music. He’d invited us to play at his not-for- WORDS: Richard Croasdale As Aaron spent more of his time in profit Apple Flower Festival – a tiny event in

56 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 57 HAVEN MUSIC FESTIVAL

his orchard on the island of LilleØ – (at the time of writing): Chance the and it was such a great feeling, playing Rapper, Feist, Iggy Pop, The Danish for 600 people, families and children, String Quartet and Conor Oberst. with Claus cooking for everyone. Understandably, Aaron is full of praise “We knew then that this is what for his partners Mikkel and Claus, and we wanted to do: create something says the Mikkeller culture and values that feels intimate, where you’re just permeate the festival. as likely to experience a band on the “This is the kind of experience stage as you are other moments of Mikkeller is so good at creating,” he generosity, like someone handing you says. “You can go into any of those a tasting, or walking into a visual art Mikkeller bars and feel that they’re installation.” related. The Haven festival is another Aaron explains the name ‘Haven’ was outpost for that. We’re planting chosen for its dual-meaning. In Danish, a flag and creating something of the word means ‘garden’, but in English uncompromising high quality, saying it has connotations of being apart from ‘you can go to a music festival and have the world, “a place for ideation and the best beer in the world, and the best discovery”. First and foremost, this will food, and the most interesting cultural take the form of collaboration, within experiences’.” and between the different creative While the festival will run for two disciplines represented there. days in August, the site is also now the “The whole experience will be like home of the Haven bar, a year-round an installation where all these various expression of the spirit of escape and elements come together to stimulate collaboration which drives the festival. the senses in different ways,” Aaron Mikkel has personally curated the beer explains. “So, I’ll be playing with and spirits, while Aaron has curated The National, but also with other the music and Claus has worked with musicians, some of whom I’ve never the chef at the Michelin-starred Studio even met. I’ll also be working with restaurant to create a menu of quality people in other fields completely, bar food. which has always been one of my “As I’ve gotten older I’ve realised favourite things, whether it’s making a – whether it’s the friendships with beer with Mikkeller, or collaborating other musicians or artists, chefs or with the Icelandic visual artist Ragnar brewers – that I’m drawn to creative Kjartansson. Everyone who’s involved minds,” he says. “To me, that’s just has bought into creating a really special what Mikkel is; he’s an artist, and his collaborative space.” field is brewing, but it extends into the The result, Aaron hopes, will be a bars, the running club, Keith Shore’s “village atmosphere”, where people fantastic designs, the whole way of life can move through a landscape of that Mikkeller has come to embody. different experiences, participating I’ve obviously been to a lot of bars, but and contributing, rather than simply there’s something very special about consuming entertainment. In short, Mikkeller’s take on what bars and they’ve “created the kind of festival beers should be.” we’d want to attend”. Haven takes place on 11 and 12 In addition to The National, the August 2017. Tickets and line up are festival’s eclectic line-up includes available at havenkbh.dk

58 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 59 The Art of WEIRD BEER Each issue, Ferment probes the darkest FERMENTATION crevices of the beer world for treasures and horrors. This issue, a beer to align your chakra

eer and yoga seem like more, and that my mind wasn’t on natural bedfellows; after anything else. Ball, one is an ancient and I suggested following up with spiritually fulfilling art of relaxation a spot of Reiki and Jager shots, which, if mastered, promises to but for some reason wasn’t taken elevate adherents to a higher level seriously. of consciousness, and the other is The verdict: it sounds yoga (rimshot). ridiculous, but we’re fans of this. I was delighted to learn that Craft beer is there to be enjoyed Beeryoga is an actual thing, and rather than chugged, so is best even more thrilled to learn it drunk mindfully. There’s no originated in Germany. Bearing this doubt yoga helps you get is mind, it’s no surprise that, while into the right frame of ‘bieryoga’ is meant to be fun, it’s also mind to savour every intended to be taken quite seriously. mouthful. Best of all, Practitioners perform various there’s absolutely Part IV: The Grainfather focuses on the delicate yoga moves (or ‘asana’) adapted to no obligation to go holding a bottle upright, punctuated to pub in lycra; you art of fermentation, and how it can make a brew with welcome swigs of chilly beer. can use your new- On condition of anonymity, I found focus without persuaded a friendly local yogi to bending your s homebrewers we can master the art of mashing, learn everything throw some shapes with me. While ankles round your we can about ingredients and have the creativity to try and create my body may not have the flexibility head, which is something completely unique, only to have all this hard work come or grace to execute a perfect good news for A completely undone once we reach fermentation. Fermentation is such Tittibhasana, I definitely found that you and your an important part of brewing that we’ve dedicated this instalment of our years of trying not wanting to spill fellow patrons. my beer gave me a certain focus. introduction to homebrewing series to the topic. I also found it gave me quite a work-out, which meant I savoured the occasional sip of beer all the

FERMENT MAGAZINE 61 nce you have pitched your yeast, fermentation will in your finished beer to some degree but have a fairly contributing factor to hangovers. They have a much lower typically start within 12 hours (but may take up to low flavour threshold and can be undesirable in higher flavour threshold than ethanol. O24). Although there are usually some visual signs quantities. They are responsible for clove or smoky Although considered a fault in most styles when present that fermentation is underway, such as the airlock bubbling flavours and can come from several sources. Firstly, in high quantities, the production of higher alcohols is a or a froth build-up on top of the beer, these are not always they may come from your ingredients – large amounts natural part of fermentation. guaranteed and you should always use hydrometer readings as of smoked malts can impart smoky phenols that would Luckily as brewers we have a few methods available for a sure sign that fermentation is occurring. be somewhat desirable in a smoked beer but could be controlling the production of these higher alcohols which During this ‘primary fermentation’, yeast is converting sugar considered an off flavour in other styles. Your water may mostly revolve around good control over yeast growth. in the wort to alcohol and CO2 but there are also important also contain phenols which can be difficult to remove from Similar to ester production, higher alcohol production is flavour compounds being created at this stage. Depending a finished beer, for example, water that is high in levels encouraged by higher fermentation temperatures. Highly on which yeast strain you use and the temperature at which of chlorine can give your beer a terrible aceptic/ active fermentations, with a lot of movement in the you ferment, different levels of phenols and esters will be medicine taste which is very undesirable. Hops wort, also encourage yeast growth and this can be produced. can also introduce phenols in the form of tannins aided by properly oxygenating your wort before ‘Esters’ are responsible for imparting fruity flavors and which give your beer a puckering astringency. pitching your yeast. aromas in beer. Some beers which taste like bananas, apples, Finally, your yeast selection will play an Research has shown that the majority of flavour strawberries or pineapple have those tastes as a result of important role in the levels of phenols that are compounds produced by yeast are formed within esters that have been produced during fermentation. Ester produced. Particular strains (such as the Belgian the first 72 hours of fermentation so there are production is largely undesirable when brewing a lager but is a style yeast strains) are designed to impart greater some brewers who will pitch a second, alcohol distinctive element of most styles of ale to some degree. levels of phenols such as the clove-like aroma tolerant, neutral strain when fermenting a higher Typically, ester production happens later in the and flavour present in a lot of Belgian beers. ABV beer. This allows them to get their desired fermentation process and the level of esters produced Higher alcohols, which are more complex characteristics from their initial yeast and then will increase in higher gravity worts. Ester production alcohols than the ethanol that is produced ensure that fermentation finishes without adding can also be increased by fermenting at warmer as a natural part of fermentation, additional flavours and without the first yeast temperatures. will also be produced during strain becoming stressed in a higher ‘Phenols’ are also produced during fermentation and these alcohol environment and fermentation. They will always be present are thought to be a producing off flavours.

FERMENT MAGAZINE 63 Tips for a happy fermentation

So, the most important considerations for fermentation are;

CHOOSE A YEAST STRAIN BASED ON THE IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT THE SUGAR 1 FLAVOUR PROFILE YOU WANT IN YOUR 4 Higher gravity worts and worts that use a lot of non- FINISHED BEERS malt such as sugar are typically low in levels of amino acids that the yeast needs to grow. In these PITCH A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF YEAST cases, the yeast will start to produce the amino acids 2 Underpitching increases formation of esters and itself and this process increases ester production and phenols as well as other off flavours, overpitching can higher alcohol production. If this is not desired, you lead to low ester production, thin bodied beer and should consider this when formulating a recipe. issues with autolysis. OXYGENATE YOUR WORT CONTROL YOUR TEMPERATURE 5 BEFORE PITCHING 3 All yeast strains ferment best within a given Wort that is not properly oxygenated will reduce yeast temperature range. As best as possible you should growth which will result in higher levels of esters, keep your temperature at a constant and within phenols and higher alcohols. that range. Fluctuation in temperature can lead to off flavours as can too high a temperature. Too low a temperature can prevent your beer from fermenting fully

Temperature controlled fermentation

f you are able to control the temperature of your Alternatively, if your beer is too cold, your fermentation, you will be able to avoid the wild fermentation may not start. This leaves your wort Itemperature swings that can be extremely damaging susceptible to infection and aromas such as sulfur which to your final beer. Even if you are fairly certain that are normally driven off during fermentation. the room you use to ferment in can maintain a steady There’s a number of ways to control fermentation temperature, the exothermic reactions that occur during temperature, however the most effective one commercial fermentation can raise the temperature of the beer up to breweries are using, is to use fermentation vessels that 5 degrees above the ambient temperature of the room. are insulated and equipped to maintain temperature This huge temperature difference will have a massive at a set level. The Grainfather have built a homebrew effect on the flavours produced in your beer. Letting equivalent of such temperature controlled equipment your beer get too warm during fermentation can even to allow the homebrewer to have the same accuracy kill off the yeast you have pitched, resulting in a beer in their fermentation process. Watch the space to that is not fully fermented and therefore overly sweet learn more about the brand new Grainfather Conical and unbalanced. Fermenter due to release in June.

OFFER ENDS 1ST JUNE

FERMENT MAGAZINE 65 OFFICE BREW OFFICE BREW:

WORDS: Fraser Doherty PHOTOGRAPHS: Richard Croasdale

nlisting the help of my Dad, sure you bring us a bottle to try once Robert, we have decided to it’s done!”, they said. Eembark on a homebrew mission; Loaded up with an array of malts to recreate Mikkel’s original coffee and back at base, I’m standing over a oatmeal stout recipe: Beer Geek simmering Grainfather full of water. Breakfast. The beer that put Mikkeller I pour the malts into the steaming on the map is rated as the best stout liquor and my Dad stirs to avoid in the world on RateBeer; perhaps an creating a clumpy mess. We let the ambitious undertaking for two novice machine do its thing for an hour, homebrewers, but we have decided to emitting a wonderful malty aroma, rise to the challenge. while we taste last month’s brew – As the name suggests, the beer was David’s New England Grapefruit IPA. designed to be the ultimate breakfast After an enjoyable hour critiquing stout. Brewed with pilsner, oat, smoked, my colleague’s homebrew, it’s soon cara amber, brown, pale chocolate time to sparge for half an hour; the and chocolate malts, as well as roasted point in the process where we slowly barley and flaked oats, it’s a stout trickle additional liquor through the with an incredibly complex malt bill. grain to wash out any lingering sugars. Coming in at 7.5% ABV, it is brewed While we wait, my Dad reminisces with Cascade and Centennial hops and about some of his earliest memories gourmet French press coffee. of beer: “Your Grandad used to Now brewed for Mikkeller by the brew his own beer in the garden Norwegian beer lords at Lervig, it is one of the most widely respected beers in the world. Brewing it here in our office, I’m not sure it will live up to this reputation, but with so many delicious components I’m sure we’ll make a great brew in any case. The first step was to collect the ingredients from our friends at Edinburgh’s Brew Store (brewstore. co.uk). Excited by our undertaking, they share some advice over a couple of glasses of their own recent creations, including an awesome lemongrass saison. They told me that this is one of the most popular beers for their customers to try and emulate, “make

66 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 67 OFFICE BREW BEER GEEK BREAKFAST Oatmeal stout with coffee

STATISTICS Volume: 20 litres shed. He was a very thorough guy, so it Boil volumne: 25 litres seemed to turn out pretty well,” he says. Original gravity: 1074 Channelling this attention to detail, Boil gravity: 1059 we carefully measure out the bittering Last month’s brew Final gravity: 1017 hops and add them to the boil. Another David Laird, Ferment’s advertising manager, gives his Alcohol: 7.5% 45 minutes passes and we add 45g of verdict on last month’s brew: a New England IPA… Colour: 106 EBC Centennial, boil for another 10 minutes Bitterness: Approx 100+ IBU and then add another 45g, along with nlike James Taylor’s just 10g of Cascade for the final 5. “This Honey and Basil brew from the last issue, my MASHING sure is a carefully thought out recipe,” U now bottled beer didn’t open we remark, wondering how much Pilsner malt: 3300g with a “pleasant fizzy pop”. of those ten grams we’ll be able to Flaked malts: 1650g I had no pop, no fizz, and it Cara amber I malt: 365g perceive in our finished beer. wasn’t pleasant! However, Brown malt: 365g The finished wort tastes incredibly the aromas that filled the Pale chocolate malt: 180g bitter, with an amazing array of malty air around my oddly inert Roasted barley: 365g characteristics; chocolately, smokey, NEIPA were still as fruity Smoked malt: 180g biscuity goodness. We add the and as pungent as when I American Ale yeast and let it get to first brewed it; the taste, the Total malt: 6770g work on this magically dark brew. body, the colour was to me nearly perfect for my pallet! Mashing programme 67˚C The carboy bubbles vigorously in the corner of the office for a fortnight, “that But where was my “pleasant for 60 min fizzy pop”? I rang my experts at our Home Brew suppliers and was is some happy yeast!” I hear Richard reassured; leave it! A few more days it will be fine! exclaim. I brew the coffee and add it to HOPS the batch a few days before bottling. So was it all fine? I hear you all tentatively asking from beyond this page… well no is the short answer: my NEIPA was dead on arrival. Centennial: 50g at 60 min My Dad and I can’t wait to crack into Cascade: 20g at 60 min these bottles together in a few weeks’; I went to Hop City in Leeds last week and was asked to bring a few Cascade: 45g at 15 min we might even pick up bottles to share with a few brewers. So, imagine my utter dejection at having Seb Brink, head brewer at North Brew Co, be the first to pour Centennial: 45g at 5 min a bottle of Mikkeller’s my now ready homebrew, On pouring I knew there was something Cascade 10g at 5 min original, to compare wrong instantly; my NEIPA was no longer bright radioactive orange, with and see how much nor was the room filled instantly with the leftovers of the insane FERMENTATION more we need to improve! amount of fruit I placed in it. It was a dull brown with a tint of green, it Yeast: 1056 American Ale had no real smell and tasted very much of cardboard. Two days was all Temperature: 21-23˚C it took to go from near perfection to death, and we may never know the reasons why! (I believe internal sabotage). I think in a way it’s been a good death though. I have come to really COMMENTS appreciate just how fragile and frustrating brewing can be! That in 0.5 litres ground coffee the small amount of time a small change in a recipe can make such a made with 50g coffee added difference. I do plan to brew again and now I can do it with my eyes a few days before bottling. wider open than before.

68 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 69 RICK ASTLEY

buse of the internet is responsible Albert Hall that evening to promote his for many horrible things: trolls, fake album, 50. Anews and revenge porn to name just a “I wanted something that me and my few, but sometimes it also creates something mates could enjoy, something that would be Rolling wonderful, and the rehabilitation of Rick Astley good in the pub or after a gig, nothing too as a cult figure is definitely one of them. complicated,” says Rick. The ‘rickrolling’ sensation of 2007 put And, in fairness, who can blame him? Not Astley back on the map of popular culture, normally a huge beer drinker – in fact, he introducing his 80s music to a whole new admitted that when he was younger he disliked with generation and making his kitsch early career the taste of beer so much he’d lace it with something cool again. Pernod and blackcurrant cordial – Astley was However, that was 10 years ago now and probably put off the idea ‘craft’ beer on the day the news that one of the godfathers of ‘cool of brewing development by Mikkel deciding brewing’, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, was teaming that he should try some hop concentrate – a up with Astley to make a collaboration beer sight worth watching on the brand’s website caused virtually everyone to splutter into their www.astleysnorthernhop.com just for the vision pints a little (but in a childishly excited way). that is Rick’s face as he struggles with the Firstly, it turns out that Bjergsø isn’t always as bitterness the green goop delivered. cool as he seems; according to inside sources However, the torture of his palate aside, his at the brewery, as he was utterly star-struck at involvement in the project has given Astley a the idea of Astley being interested in making a better insight to the world brewing and given beer that he could enjoy on tour and with pals him a new-found respect for it all. down the pub. Apparently, Mikkel had posters “The passionate, creative side of it all of Astley on his wall as a kid and the idea of reminds me of the music industry; it was one of his musical idols wanting to work with refreshing that I met people that were as him caused a bit of a stir in the heart of the excited about creating beer as I am about generally granite-faced Dane. creating music.” Astley’s Nothern Hop Lager, a play on not And it’s clear that a great bond has only the obvious beer reference but on the been forged with the brewery, as the first northern UK term for a dance, is the result. thing Astley did when he saw Mikkeller’s A red lager, with a hint of ginger, referencing representative on the day, Mixen Limberg, was Astley’s once bright-red hair, is a simple 4.7%, give him a huge hug, which, said Mixen when I easy-drinking beer – a little out of character for spoke to him later, was a sign of how ‘nice and the Mikkeller brand, known better for its totally down to earth’ Astley was to work with. wild and crazy flavours. And, the good news for Astley and However, it fulfilled the brief Mikkeller fans (which would be a WORDS: Melissa Cole exactly for what Astley wants, fascinating Venn diagram if ever I as he explained to me at saw one) is that both Limberg the Draft House launch in and Astley hinted that this might Hammersmith, while trying not be the last time they work to squeeze in something to together – so keep your eyes, eat between interviews and and ears, peeled for what’s next. playing a gig at the Royal http://bit.ly/IqT6zt

70 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 71 VIEWS from the WORDS : Melissa Cole ILLUSTRATIONS : Eva Dolgyra & BAR The Man Trout Melissa Cole asks whether craft beer fans are too keen to put their heart into their favourite brands, only to have them broken

I wonder what it is about us humans glaring faults? those we look up to means a failing in businesses and people to exploit this? on the backs of people who have that drives a need to idolise figures, A political example, that I was ourselves and, with introspection the Well, it’s a veritable minefield as it’s put great faith in your direction and brands or genres? Why do we feel astonished to see recently, springs hardest look to take, means we often so very personal, but I think we can all have supported your brand from the the need to attach our happiness in immediately to mind. consciously overlook the facts rather agree that the majority of us know the beginning, only to watch you u-turn life to those over whom we have no Despite having clear evidence than face up to the hard truths. when we see it crossed, and it’s often on what you claimed were your core control; why do we pour our hearts to the contrary, 53% of Trump And it’s the fact that our self-image the insecure few who can’t. values, is that ok? into supporting them or loving them, supporters in the US still think he has is always closely tied to our credulity But there’s also a flip side to all of Or do individuals have to take when it is, in reality, very much a one- played less golf in his first 90 days of that makes us easy prey for brands this and as the old joke goes: “Infamy, responsibility for their own part in way street? office than Obama. when they say: “welcome, we are your infamy, they’ve all got it in for me” buying into the spiel? It’s a thought that’s been very much The reality is that Obama didn’t kind of people, we don’t mind if you must be tattooed on the hearts of Again, I’m not seeking to give you on my mind recently for a number play golf once in his first 90 days of have tattoos or piercings, or don’t some brewery owners who answers here; I just want us to think of reasons, the resurrection of Rick office and, for the sake of political want to go to work in a suit” or have decided that the hard about why, for example, the Astley’s ‘cool’ and his collaboration balance, nor did George W Bush. But whatever they’re pitching. reward for their hard Camden sale was greeted with great with Mikkeller, the reasons why people Trump supporters will not be swayed This will appeal to a vast work in building up wails and gnashing of teeth, but the bag on brewers who carved paths like by facts; they prefer instead to go swathe of people who see businesses deserves sale of Sharp’s brewery was met with a Jim Koch of Sam Adams and, of course, with what they ‘believe’ to be the themselves as ‘alternative’ to be rewarded collective shrug of shoulders from the fallout from the recent sale of 22% ‘truth’ because they don’t want to see despite being faced with with a big pay day. beer fans. of BrewDog. the golf shoe-clad clay feet of the the obvious fact that Beer isn’t a Whatever happens to the future of But while it would be easy to man they have put in office. they are part of a vast charity, it’s a ‘pure’ craft beer, the reality of the here concentrate on one, or all, of these It sometimes makes it astonishing movement of identically business, and those and now is that we are standing at a specific topics, I keep finding myself that we have survived as a race when ‘alternative’ people. But who work hard and crossroads, where some brewers will going back to the psychology of we seem to have this in-built ability it’s made okay, because you build businesses that choose to go one way or the other. The worship, what makes us both look up to to blindly follow people that we want no longer feel alone and, as are successful deserve only thing we can do as drinkers and these people in the first place and then to believe, because they are loud and humans, one of the things we all to enjoy the fruits of that commentators is attempt to keep them feel so crushed by them when they brash and say things we would never fear the most is being alone, and I success, don’t they? honest on whatever path they choose, fail to live up to our, often unrealistic, dare. It is the tenet of religion, of count myself among them. Well, in my opinion, it depends whatever ‘honest’ may even mean expectations of them? Or, in some cults, customs, faiths and big brands But where is the line where it how they build that success; if it’s these days. cases, be so utterly blind to their that makes us feel that the failings of stops being acceptable for brands,

72 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 73 Danish PASTRY

PUFF PASTRY RECIPE

1kg strong bread flour 200g melted butter 500ml water PREPARING 20g yeast Combine flour and salt and mix well. Separately combine water, yeast and sugar. 160g sugar Mix the two together, and add the melted butter. Knead but only for a couple of minutes. The dough should be rough, because when touring the dough we will 20g salt naturally stretch itself; we don’t want it to spring back when trying to incorpo- + 600g butter for folding rate the butter. So best to gently put it together and let it double in size. Knock it back and refrigerate for three hours. TOURING The process is easy: roll out, fold in three, refrigerate and repeat the process twice But what’s important is to keep the dough and butter at constant tem- peratures to avoid the butter from melting into the dough. The butter shouldn’t be too cold either, or else it will break, so it’s all about finding the right balance. SHAPING AND PROVING When shaping yeasted puff pastry, it is important to keep in mind that it will expand, and therefore it will need space. If you are using a loaf tin or a narrow casing make sure to roll it in a way where it can rise and develop easily without exploding. Brush with egg yolk and cook at a low temperature first (around 170C) to melt the butter and create the rise. Up the temperature to 190C to give it a golden finish.

74 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 75 FONDANT RECIPE

500g confectioner’s sugar 5tpsb milk 5tpsb corn syrup

Mix until smooth with an electric whisk or stand mixer.

PISTACHIO & LIME 250g fondant + 1 lime zest + 100g crushed pistachios

ROSE & MINT 250g fondant + 1tsp rose extract + 50g crystallised mints

76 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 77 78 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 79 GUEST DRINK: MEAD

WORDS : Richard Croasdale eagle and carries the blood- mead back to Asgard for his pals. Not that it seems to have done much good though, as the Norse gods remained, by all accounts, feckless idiots. But it wasn’t just the Vikings who were at it; springing up there’s strong evidence to suggest the ancient across the country. One of the Greeks’ ‘ambrosia’ at the very least included most successful so far is Gosnells London some form of mead. Ambrosia was never off Mead, brewed in Peckham by Tom Gosnell. It’s the Greek gods’ table and – much like craft a relatively low 5.5% abv, slightly carbonated he Greek and Norse gods were fond of it, In fact, the only generally held rule is that the beer – was thought to confer longevity or and much drier than you might expect, it was once a mainstay of British drinking primary source of fermentable sugar in any even immortality, could heal wounds and was taking floral aromatics from the honey, rather Tculture, and it’s helped set the tone for mead should be honey. even good for bathing. In the case of the gods than cloying sugar. From the location to the many a swords-and-sorcery fantasy novel. But Historically, meads would have been though, ambrosia was delivered by a flock of branding, it’s clear this 2013 startup took a big let’s not pretend: mead has had a rough few fermented using whatever wild yeasts were on doves rather than by Yodel. cue from the craft beer movement. centuries, commercially speaking. the skin of the fruit adjuncts, or found within More recently (as in, about 700 years From Moniack Mead in Inverness to The history of this fermented honey drink the honey itself. Today though, people tend to ago) mead’s ubiquity in Europe hit a bit of a Lurgashall’s award-winning range from certainly stretches back a long way. Indeed, use either brewers’ yeast or, more commonly, problem; the arrival of cane sugar from the Sussex, mead is steadily moving away from fragments of Chinese earthenware dating from wine yeast depending on the character they’re Spice Islands made bee-keeping a dead-end being a novelty, heritage drink to something around 7000 BCE have been found to contain hoping to achieve. career choice. In fact, there is an argument acknowledged as a craft. chemical markers that suggest they were once Unsurprisingly for such an ancient drink, that the only reason mead production While Cornish Mead Company’s Sophia used to hold mead, making it one of mankind’s mead plays a starring role in myth and continued at all in the UK is that monasteries Fenton acknowledges cultural phenomena earliest fermented tipples. legend, and its image remains retains a whiff still needed ceremonial beeswax candles, and such as Game of Thrones have thrown mead Many cultures have their own version of of the fantastical. didn’t want to waste the honey they washed into the spotlight (“we clearly just needed mead, and the long list of mead varieties In a characteristically bonkers piece of off the combs. dragons and boobs”) she says there is still a contains names stemming from a dizzying Norse mythology, mead becomes a source of So, as far as the UK was concerned, long way to go before mead in Europe reaches array of languages and cultures. Some divine wisdom*. The story goes that, following the domestic mead industry consisted of the same status it enjoys on the west coast of producers will add fruit adjuncts for flavour, a war between two rival groups of gods, the Lindisfarne and a handful of other tiny the USA, for example. some spice, and its strength can range from peace is sealed by each of the quarrelsome monastic producers for a good few hundred “There’s a lot of education to do, I think, that of a weak ale to a strong fortified wine. deities spitting into a pot (obviously). From years. Jump forward to 1960 though and the because mead does still have this medieval this soup they create Kvasir, a man of such first of the UK’s modern meaderies (no, I didn’t image,” she says. “I think a big part of it surpassing wisdom that he does a much better know that’s what they were called either) is knowing how it should be served, or at Back in the good old days, before toastie-makers and job than the gods of sorting things out on the opened in Newlyn, Cornwall. Still run by least going to a bar that knows. There are a his-and-her adult onesies, a month’s supply of mead was mortal plain. That is, until he gets murdered the Fenton family, the founder’s great grand- couple of restaurants and bars now that have a traditional wedding gift; it’s where we get the word by some belligerent dwarves, who mix his daughter says he began fermenting because made mead a feature, but it’s still very niche. ‘honeymoon’. Supposedly capable of giving a hangover blood with honey to make ‘the poet’s mead’; “he was an innovator, there was a lot of good Without that, people who do try it are more basically, Norse genius juice. local honey, and nobody else was doing it”. likely to have a mediocre experience and not free (and impotence free) buzz, as well as being a There’s also the inevitable bit where Odin Today, there is reason to wassail and carouse come back.” powerful aphrodisiac for both sexes, mead was seen as a confronts the dwarves (who try to claim Kvasir like a Tudor king, as mead seems to have *Having done my own ‘research’ for sure-fire route to marital bliss*. was crushed to death by the weight of his own caught the favourable winds of the wider this feature, I can confirm this is not even brain), has sex with a giantess, turns into an craft booze movement, with new meaderies remotely the case.

80 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 81 SUPERSTITION MEADERY

SUPERSTITION is the way e first met Superstition Meadery Mikkeller has a track record of supporting back at the start of 2016, and and promoting the mead industry in general, Wtook an instant liking to the and Superstition products are served at beer and the folks behind it. So we were the brewery’s bars in Copenhagen, Aarhus, delighted to hear they would be attending Tokyo, Taipei and Bangkok. It was also MMBC for the third time, and even more the focus of the first Mikkeller San Diego so to learn that they’d had such a busy and ticketed event; a mead and beer pairing, successful 12 months making mead, brewing hosted by Jeff and Mikkeller’s Daniel Cady. collaborations, moving into new markets and “One of our highlights of the past year building a new production facility. was working with Jakob Rasmussen of “During the summer of 2016, we Mikkeller Bangkok, and Dan Bark of had a production meeting to plan its restaurant, to offer the first mead our second expansion; moving and food pairing event ever held in production from our humble space Asia, on January 3, 2017. The resulting in historic downtown Prescott, menu and mind blowing pairings of Arizona to our new building,” says mead and hard set a bar that Jeff Herbert, owner of Superstition will be hard to raise,” says Jeff. Meadery. “At that meeting, we US laws prevent Superstition from realized that we had 58 different using cereal grains in its meads, so products fermenting, barrel aging, one of Jeff’s favourite activities is or resting in bottles. While we travelling to breweries in order to strive to maintain a core line-up, make braggots; either a style of the innovation at Superstition over mead with cereal grains, or a style the past year has been amazing, of beer with about 20-50% honey, and several of these meads will be depending on your perspective. with us at MBCC 2017.” From a double IPA sloe berry

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braggot at War Pigs, to a bourbon barrel and co are pouring Invisible Smile and apple cider, and the top-rated cider. aged marion berry braggot at Bottle Blueberry Spaceship Box. Invisible The red session will see Marion, a Logic, or an imperial stout with dates, Smile is a peach cyser made with organic semi-sweet gold medal winning mead vanilla, coffee and honey at Abnormal, Arizona apple cider and Arizona honey, made with three berries, and the Superstition has been working with aged on Masumoto Suncrest peaches outrageous Peanut butter Jelly Crime. its brewing friends to create new frozen using liquid nitrogen. Blueberry PBJC is “a peanut butter and jelly flavours everywhere it goes. Mikkeller Spaceship Box is a delicious blueberry- sandwich in a glass”. San Diego is even aging Blueberry Finally the green session will see the Shuffle in a Blue Berry White barrel; pairing of two special products: FO a Superstition mead that won a Gold Grand Cru Berry and Wine Barrel Aged medal at the world’s largest commercial Pillars of Creation. To craft FO Grand mead competition, the Mazer Cup Cru Berry, Superstition took equal parts International in March 2017. of its White Series (raspberry, blueberry, “When we come to a festival blackberry and strawberry, white like MBCC, we want to show the chocolate, barrel aged sweet meads) and most distinguished craft beverage aged them in a barrel previously used for connoisseurs in the world what we are Bottle Logic Fundamental Observation most proud of,” continues Jeff. imperial vanilla stout barrel. For the festival’s yellow session, “We also took our tart cherry-apple Superstition is serving Coffee Marion cider, Pillars of Creation, and aged it and Grand Cuvée. For the former, the in a cabernet wine barrel to bring this meadery aged its most popular product, exquisite fruit cider to a new level. Marion, on Mostra coffee, while Grand Neither of the green session products Cuvée is a one-off special blend of the have ever been bottled, and we are four meads from its 2016 White Series. honoured to offer them at MBCC 2017,” For the festival’s blue session, Jeff says Jeff.

84 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 85 MIKKELLER & FRIENDS MIKKELLER BAR REYKJAVÍK, ICELAND STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN Hverfisgata 12 Brahegatan 3-5 MIKKELLER BAR +354 4370203 +46 8 673 19 01 SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA 33, Gangnam-, Dosan-daero 17-gil, +82 70-4231-4723

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Around the world DEBATE - EXPORT

PAVED WITH

t’s fair to say that the effect of Brexit and to brewing beer and the same is true when the weak pound, along with both a strong it comes to selling it. When the UK market Idollar and euro is giving UK brewers and is too crowded or simply inaccessible, then distributors a difficult time when it comes it needs to look to alternatives to assure not to imports and exports. Despite challenges just its survival but ongoing success. That’s such as these, along with the rising cost of where exporting beer to foreign markets raw materials, equipment and increasing such as Europe, The United States, Australia, business rates, people are still choosing to New Zealand and even East Asian markets enter the beer business in their droves. In such as Singapore or Japan comes into play. fact according to SIBA – The Society for Kevin Brooks works for US-based Independent Brewers – the UK now has specialist craft beer importer Shelton almost 1800 breweries, the highest number Brothers and I got in touch with him to find Matt Curtis explores the lure of in almost a century. out what he looks for in a UK brewery before Although the UK beer market is almost its beer becomes part of his portfolio. export markets, and asks whether definitely not oversaturated, it is crowded “One thing that’s important about the and, as a result, it’s becoming increasingly decision of who to import is the people at overseas expansion is the cure to difficult for brewers to find space on taps the brewery,” Brooks says. “I really want to UK brewers’ Brexit woes and shelves. In addition to this, it’s often a work with people I genuinely like. While it’s challenge for breweries to sell their beer not strictly necessary, it makes selling the into certain pubs. Tied houses affiliated beer even easier.” to specific pub companies, or even other Brooks’ opening point is a pertinent one. breweries, are often only allowed to There are many challenges involved in the purchase beer from a set list of suppliers. export market, such as finding the right This potentially means a pub can’t buy beer distributor, dealing with different rates of from the brewery most local to it, if that duty and excise, navigating different alcohol brewery isn’t part of that pub company’s laws and keeping your beer cold and fresh purchase plan. when it’s due to travel a long way from home. Craft breweries are known for However, perhaps to most pressing issue is innovating when it comes finding relevance for your brand in a foreign marketplace. If good people are behind

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their products and are willing to get out an array of classic English ales, higher- to cutting-edge UK brands such as there to shake hands and kiss babies, end German lagers and Belgian ales. Redchurch, Burning Sky, Cloudwater then selling their beer in a foreign These were beers and styles we loved, and Wild Beer Co to name a few; marketplace becomes easier. that we though deserved exposure in breweries with a strong focus on beers People alone don’t sell beer, the US.” that will stand out in a beer market however; the product has to be right. that’s far more mature than our own. “The first thing we look for with any “The US market is pretty much prospective brewery when considering saturated, so while a brewery in the import to the States, whether from the UK may make fantastic beer, it needs UK or anywhere else, is the liquid,” to stand out here,” Brooks says. “They Brooks continues. “The beer needs need to bring something different to to be stellar. If it is not, that’s a deal the table. Bringing pale ales or IPAs breaker for us. Bringing pale ales or into the States just doesn’t make sense. “Of course stellar beer is only the IPAs into the States just It’s ‘coals to Newcastle’ and all that.” beginning. When our company started, doesn’t make sense. London’s Beavertown is one brewery 20 years ago, we were looking for great that began exporting beers to the US, examples of styles not available in but after a few months decided to focus the United States. The first brewery However, the beer landscape has on home, as owner and founder Logan we signed was Cantillon, it was unlike changed dramatically over the 20 Plant discussed with me last year. It’s anything available here at that time. years Shelton Brothers have been strong evidence that even a brewery After Cantillon, we slowly brought in in business. Nowadays Brooks looks producing great beer with great people

behind it can still struggle in an export and the weak pound that Vertical “I receive multiple emails a week environment. is experiencing and why he thinks from breweries asking if we will import “The US is an amazing market full British brewers might turn their focus their beer. In most cases, they are of great beer. I think that unless you’re to exports. not really ready to export,” he says. “I actually there, brewing in-market, local “With Brexit, we’ve sadly had to tell them that the US is a really rough and fresh, then there’s no way we can raise our prices for the first time in market. Any brewery looking to come send tankers full of Gamma Ray over six years. With the cost of hops rising here should treat it almost as a vanity there, because an equivalent is on it’s going to get worse before it gets project. The streets are not paved with every street corner,” he says. “I’m sure better,” Kiley says. “The duty rate that gold here.” we could make a success of it over British breweries pay along with bars Brooks concludes by offering UK there. The exporter we were working and pubs makes it hard to create a brewers a little advice: “I recommend with at the time wanted everything that profitable business. When sending that UK breweries concentrate on was crazy from us, but I wanted that to beer abroad, you aren’t having to slap their home market, make that as strong be driven into the UK and markets that the duty on the price, making it a good as possible. When you are ready for we feel we can support and service. I’d option to offset costs to the business.” export and are looking for major rather our beer be here, as opposed to There are some obvious advantages volumes look to Asia, Brazil or Russia. 3000 miles away.” to exporting beer, which makes it Sweden and Canada’s state systems It’s not just UK brewers looking to appealing despite the challenges it are also good options. However with export markets who are suffering. presents. There also definitely seems to regards to the US, too many breweries Tyler Kiley works for Leeds-based UK be no lack of thirst for British beer in here are making really good beer. By distributor Vertical Drinks. He told me foreign markets, at least not according tempering your expectations you will about the pressures caused by Brexit to Shelton Brother’s Brooks. not be let down by the results.”

90 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 91 ake a stroll into your local bullshit; a heinous capitalist’s dream, developed to so I’m going to do him a solid and update these laws bookshop (as if they bloody sell you £60 slippers that’ll look great on your Pinter- for us Millennials: “You’re a nobody, now put that exist) and, smugly sat among est page and next #Hygge post. phone down and shut up”. the throngs of thrillers, travel guides But how do we escape this hand-crafted, artisanal It may seem harsh, but think about it. If some of the and z-list autobiographies, you’ll notice hellscape? We need something revolutionary, some- tappy-happy intertrolls, Instagram influencers and a few books in the health section on a thing new and original; we need a whole new mind- YouTube personalities (sound the oxymoron klaxon) Scandinavian creation, ‘Hygge’. set. But where to turn? Scandinavia, that’s where. adopted just a smidge of the Jantelov philosophy, Now before you get all annoyed that What we need is a new Scandinavian idea. What we how much better would the world be? yet another journo-twat is jumping on need is… Jantelov. Can you imagine X-Factor? We could call it the Pinterest-ready, Instagram-filtered Jante-who? Jantelov, now stop asking questions; Jante-Factor or J-Factor. It wouldn’t be the gro- Hygge bandwagon, ready to explain who do you think you are? tesque celebration of mediocre talent entwined with that Hygge is important for wellbe- Jantelov or the “Laws of Jante” are a set of social good looks and a marketable personal brand that MODERN ing and mindfulness and stuff, don’t. rules which denigrate individ- the X-Factor has become. In- Because I’m not. ual success and achievement stead it would be a celebra- I was lucky enough to be a Danish as unworthy and inappro- tion of ideas that help the resident for a short while about a de- priate. The idea came from collective masses. Get rid of cade ago, and my other half at the time author Aksel Sandemose, who Cowell; we’ll bring in IBM’s explained to me the concept of Hygge. broke down the Jantelov into Watson computer instead, She managed that in a single sentence, ten laws, based on his ob- an impartial digital mind that and I pretty much understood exactly servations of Danish culture. could categorise our ideas what it was without any additional fuss. Rather than letting you loose as good and not good. Somehow though, this simple idea on a computer and expecting The constant spew has managed to take the western world you to Google them, I’ve tak- online of me, me, me could by storm. A parade of books, articles en the liberty of copying and be replaced with us, us, In a new regular column and news reports have churned out a pasting them for you. Why? us. Rather than figuring for Ferment, Ollie Peart whole swathe of nonsense on a single Partly because Ferment pays me by the word, but out new ways to share the vapid guff-cloud of our word, which Google Translate – in its mostly because I’m totally “Jante”. everyday lives in ever more eye-watering detail, we looks for the next big boundless algorithmic genius – defines could instead work on how to make everyone’s day simply as “fun”. Type “Hygge” into Am- 1. You’re not to think you are anything special. a bit better. YouTube becomes WeTube, Instagram, Danish cultural export, azon, however, and you’ll be swamped 2. You’re not to think you are as good as we are. Westagram, Facebook, Facesbook. It’s time to get by a deluge of 2,260 potential results 3. You’re not to think you are smarter than we are. over yourself and be part of the whole. and judges you unworthy and, according to novelrank.com, ‘The 4. You’re not to convince yourself that you are better I feel that, as the individual who has identified Little Book of Hygge’ is ranked 313 in all than we are. Jantelov as the next scandi-trend that will sweep its books on US Amazon. 5. You’re not to think you know more than we do. way across the world, I have single-handedly given Take a moment to let that sink in. 6. You’re not to think you are more important than humanity a lifeline from which it can ditch it’s narcis- Out of all the flipping books, in all the we are. sistic past and embrace mass collectivism. Let’s face flipping world, our 313th choice is a 7. You’re not to think you are good at anything. it, I should probably get some kind of recognition for book about a Scandinavian idea that’s 8. You’re not to laugh at us. that. And if you have some objection to that, there been run through the mill so many 9. You’re not to think anyone cares about you. is an 11th law I should probably draw your attention times it no longer resembles the organ- 10. You’re not to think you can teach us anything. to, which – particularly today – conveys a somewhat ic, beautifully-designed and considered more sinister concern: “Perhaps you don’t think we bullshit it once was, but a new ugly To be fair to old Aksel, he wrote these back in 1933 know a few things about you?”.

92 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 93 BEER SCHOOL: WATER

It’s one of the ‘big Water, water everywhere, erately hard and weakly acidic, free is naturally weakly acidic because it so let’s all have a drink,” from contaminants that might include contains carbonic acid, formed by the four’ beer ingredients misquoted Homer Simpson, leaves, algae and the odd water beetle. reaction between water and carbon and makes up around marooned on a raft in the middle “Being based in London and a smaller dioxide in the atmosphere. It’s this acid of the ocean without even a can of size, our brewing liquor essentially that dissolves mineral compounds into 90% of your pint, yet Duff beer to keep him going. But as comes direct from the tap. For larger the water when the rain flows down is poorly understood anyone who studied The Rime of the breweries you can find water treatment through layers of rocks. Calcium and Ancient Mariner at school knows, not plants onsite, building their water pro- magnesium salts are the most common, by most beer lovers. all water is created equal: you can file from the ground up,” says James. and the amount varies according to the Louise Crane dives be surrounded by seawater yet die There are two main sources for landscape and geology of the region. of thirst because it is undrinkable. water: surface water, such as mountain These salts define the hardness gracefully into the Aside from this rather black and springwater, low in dissolved minerals rating of water. Hard water has a lot complex science of white observation, water is a complex but higher in organic matter such as of calcium and magnesium; soft water character, but garners little discussion leaves and algae, and groundwater, doesn’t. There are in fact two types of dihydrogen monoxide in brewing and craft beer circles, often generally low in organic matter but hardness. The first is temporary, and re- playing second fiddle to beer’s more higher in dissolved minerals. John lates to dissolved hydrogen carbonate sexy ingredients of hops and yeast (if Palmer, co-author of Water: A Com- ions. They can be removed by boiling The characteristic whiff you can really call a fungus sexy). Now prehensive Guide for Brewers, says, “A the water, which causes them to break it’s time for the searchlights to shine clean surface water source is good for down into carbonate ions and then of sulphur indicating the onto H2O. brewing because it is largely mineral hook up with calcium and magnesium presence of sulphate ions in Since beer is around 90% water, it free, which lets the brewers add any ions to form “insoluble precipitates”; brewing liquor became known has a major impact not only on flavour, mineral salts they feel are necessary what most of us would call limescale. as the “Burton snatch”. but the chemical reactions that occur for the beer. Typically, you will see Permanent hard water contains dis- during brewing. “Just as a basic over- total hardness numbers in the range of solved sulfate ions. They do not decom- view, the mineral content of brewing 75 to 150 ppm because water com- pose when boiled, so cannot react with liquor (aka water) affects a whole panies don’t want carbonate scale in calcium and magnesium ions to remove bunch of variables: the mash pH, which their pipes. In fact, almost every city’s them. The only way to reduce the impacts yeast’s enzymatic activity, tap water, everywhere in the world, is hardness of this kind of water is to use flavour, by accentuating malty notes generally going to be higher in alka- a softener, which replaces the calcium or hop bitterness, and aiding yeast linity and lower in hardness than we and magnesium ions with sodium and health,” explains James Allen, produc- would prefer for brewing.” potassium. To raise the hardness, just tion manager of Five Points Brewing Pure water has a pH of 7, but the add salt. Co. in London. dissolved minerals in surface and “It is a common sight in most brewer- Good brewing water should be mod- groundwater lower that. Rainwater ies to see products for the adjustment

94 FERMENT MAGAZINE BEER SCHOOL: WATER

of water ion content. The support in- proteins, large molecules with a 3D whilst adding in some beneficial sul- beneficial calcium lost in the precipi- dustries recognise this importance, and structure that allows them to bind with phates and chlorides. The amount we tate before mashing in. companies like Murphy & Sons provide starch and break some of its bonds, add to our brewing liquor is dependant The clean, crisp, bitter flavour of beer water analysis services. Understanding freeing up fermentable sugars. The 3D on the type of beer we’re brewing. With brewed in Burton in the 19th century their water is really important to brew- structure changes with pH, and forms our dark beers, we usually just add cal- became very popular and by 1888 there ers, as it will have an impact all the way its optimum shape in a slightly acidic cium chloride whilst mashing in, but we were 31 breweries in the town supplying from mashing through to fermentation environment, between pH 5.2 and 5.5. need other salts like calcium sulphate demand for Burton Ale. Burtonisation performance and yeast flocculation, This range will get you the best func- and magnesium sulphate for our paler, is used when a brewer wishes to accent as well as potentially on final beer tionality, and the quickest reactions.” hoppier beers to give a cleaner hop the hops in a pale beer, and is also seen flavour,” explains Dr Dawn Maskell, A lower mash pH has other benefits bitterness and a drier, full flavour.” in the style of Dortmunder Export. director of the International Centre for too. It inhibits bacterial growth and im- Indeed it’s very common to find that The ability for brewers to adapt to Brewing & Distilling. proves yeast health. It is better for hop a style of beer has evolved in simpatico their local water supply is evident in “As the water comes from a mix of extraction rates in the boil, encourages with water profiles, using the quirks of the great brewing centres of the world: various sources throughout the year it protein and polyphenol precipitation local mineral content to its advantage. London, and . All three can be subject to slight changes so we both during the cold break and post Pilsner is a good example, made from have water low in calcium and high send samples out to labs for assess- fermentation. It also improves clari- the soft, mineral-free waters of Pilsen, in carbonates, and an alkalinity that ment. Ideally in the next few months ty. In the finished product, a low pH very low in bicarbonates. The brewers makes brewing pale ales or lagers diffi- we’ll be taking testing in-house,” contributes sharpness, crispness and of Pilsen would add plenty of salts to cult without acidification of the mash. notes James. dryness. Higher pH values can taste their liquor and an acid rest to bring So they adapted, using darker malts to Altering the hardness of water can soapy or metallic. the pH down, producing a crisp, gold- acidify the mash, creating wonderful Adding magnesium sulphate cause problems for brewing because it At mashing in, phosphates in the en, clear lager with a very clean hoppy porters and like , Lon- to the liquor creates a alters the pH. When you remove calci- malted barley act as an acidic buffer, taste. During an acid rest, a yeast don Stout and beer. rounder, fuller taste that um and magnesium, you leave behind soaking up any negatively charged enzyme called phytase gets to work, Could tweaking water even further carbonate and bicarbonate, raising the ions to lower the pH. A dark malt will breaking down the grain’s phytin into produce new beer styles of the future? enhances other flavours in alkalinity but brewing liquor needs to get the pH to 5.6 – just outside the phytic acid and lowering the pH. This Dr Maskell supposes: “At the moment the beer. But too much and be weakly acidic. This is potentially a Goldilocks range of 5.2-5.5. Brewers works well for water that has too little the relationship between the water, customers could get the runs problem for yeast health. have a toolbox of tricks to bring the calcium to lower pH. yeast, fermentation and the final beer is – an excessive dosage may During fermentation, water plays pH back down, and the tools are the An example at the other end of the not well understood, so there is scope host to a living organism, and just as mineral salts naturally found in water. scale, and perhaps the most famous of for experimentation in this area. There produce a laxative effect. you like the heating on in winter and Add a little calcium, and the pH lowers. all, is the work of the brewers in Bur- is no reason to think that this isn’t pos- a fridge full of food to eat (and beer Magnesium acts the same way, but with ton-upon-Trent. Here the water is very sible, but there are many minerals that to drink), yeast needs a suitable and a more subtle effect. hard, and is reduced with a pre-boil to can be perceived to have a negative sustaining environment too. Its starch It’s a careful balance, says James precipitate out the calcium carbonate. influence on flavour so this should be enzymes, alpha and beta amylase, Allen, and varies by product. “We add But the process to which the town gave done with care. But I think it is more break up glycosidic bonds, but they’re an acid and salt mix called AMS from its name, Burtonisation, is the act of likely that first we could see some not just performing monkeys who can Murphy & Sons to our hot liquor tank. adding sulphate, often in the form of brewers better utilising their water as a split up carbohydrates on command, This doesn’t particularly change the pH gypsum (calcium sulphate) to the liquor, resource to get the best out of the raw whatever the situation. of the liquor much itself, but does pre- mimicking the naturally sulphate rich materials and yeast for the beers they Dr Maskell says: “Enzymes are cipitate out carbonates (ie. hardness) waters of the town and replacing the are already brewing.”

96 FERMENT MAGAZINE Get in Pubs and bars across the world are having to Here’s our definitive guide to do a whole lot more to get you in the door. some of the best.

taying in is the new going out. It’s true. Millennials are, in their BALLIE BALLERSON droves, opting to cosy up on the sofa and it’s no wonder. We Shave less reason than ever to leave our homes. With a couple As the name implies, this place is of swipes and a tap you can pretty much order anything you like, all about balls. When owner Wenny from anywhere, direct to your door, all while wearing nothing but couldn’t get a licence for the basement your pants. of her establishment in Stoke New- That’s great news for obesity, but bad news for pubs and bars. At ington London, she decided to spend the end of 2015 pubs in the U.K were closing at a rate of 27 a week. It’s £9000 on 250,000 plastic balls, creat- tough out there for establishment owners, but some have seen an op- ing a gigantic adult ball pit. Her family portunity. A chance to be different. It’s out with the fruit machine and and friends thought she was nuts (ged- pub quiz and in with balls and turtles. Hell, even the Ice Bar concept dit?) but she was far from it. I can vouch branches of cherry blossom and the experience and take a further look of six during the evening. The rules are looks like a hideous artifact of the early thousands compared to these for this, it’s great fun. No you can’t drink thousands of origami cranes (the birds, around, you’ll notice toilet paper and simple. The turtles start the race in the pioneers. So, without further ado, here’s what some of the best in the in it, but then again, you wouldn’t want not the lifting things. That would be toilet brushes decorating every last centre of an 8ft ring. The first to crawl business are doing to get you through the door. to. It’s hard to put your finger on what awful) and it’s enough to muster up a little bit of hanging space. You’ll order a out of the ring, wins. It’s about the only makes diving into a load balls so much manga style supersequence of you peel- beer which will arrive in a piss container time on a night out where “Turtle head- fun, but it is. Now, just a few months ing your sweaty crack from the sofa and thing that looks like it’s come straight ing” is welcome. after opening, Wenny is opening up getting yourself over to D.C. So, what out of a hospital, and you’ll sit down the concept in New York, , Cape are you waiting for? It’s Mario time! only to realise that the tables and chairs PLATFORM 3 PUB Town and Tokyo. It’s amazing how far a are hydraulically operated and move up load of old balls will get you. DAS KLO and down, seemingly at random. Sounds In an attempt to get people through like shit if you ask me. Which I think is the door and fill your establishment, CHERRY BLOSSOM If you’re German or speak German, the point. why not make it so small that almost no you’ll know that “Das Klo” means “The one can get in and it’s always full? Well Prefer pixels? Love moustachioed Italian Toilet”. Clever you. But what you might BIG JOES that’s exactly what this pub in Claygate, plumbers? Of course you bloomin’ do. not know is that it is also the name of Surrey have done. The Platform 3 Pub Well now you can live your life in 8 bit. this Berlin based bar which celebrates Every Friday in Lincoln Square, Chicago serves up beer from the local Bright- Cherry Blossom in Washington D.C is all things loo. you’ll find the world’s most fearsome water Brewery and only has space for a pixelated paradise that caters for old A little look at their promotional fighting team. Hero’s in a half shell, Tur- three punters inside. Granted, on a nice school gaming aficionados and folding YouTube vid will give you a taste of tle racers. Big Joe’s, a bar which is pre- day they have some outdoor seating, paper fans. This Japanese themed bar what’s in store. A stroll through the door sumably named after a fat man called but this tiny boozer is hoping to be brings Super Mario to life, loaded with and you’ll be greeted by an automated Joe, are the one’s who orchestrate the crowned the smallest pub in the U.K. So blocks, mushrooms and those weird flashing mannequin who will show you event. Every Time you buy a drink you next time you’re in Claygate, why not green tubes he jumps down. You know his colossal wang and heinous scrotum. are given a raffle ticket which may be drop in. If there’s space. the ones. Combine that with the Once you’ve cleaned your eyes of that drawn at random in one of the six races

98 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 99 sorry international folks! UK only for now,

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