JANUARY 2019 The 1950s A Flashback– From the Archive of Arizona Highways Grand Canyon National Park

Holbrook 2019 Sedona January Cottonwood Prescott PHOENIX 2 EDITOR’S LETTER San Tan Valley

3 CONTRIBUTORS Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument 4 LETTERS 5 THE JOURNAL POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE People, places and things from around the state, including a look back at “Captain” John Hance, one of the Grand Canyon’s great storytellers — “I can make these tenderfeet believe that a frog eats boiled eggs,” he said; a Prescott fiddler whose life took a turn when GET MORE ONLINE she met Arlo Guthrie; and the Iron Horse Inn in Cot- www.arizonahighways.com tonwood. 18 THE 1950s: /azhighways @arizonahighways AN ARIZONA HIGHWAYS SCRAPBOOK By Robert Stieve Art Direction by Keith Whitney 52 SCENIC DRIVE Puerto Blanco Drive: Of all the plants in the Sonoran Desert, the organ pipe cactus is among the most photogenic. To see one, you’ll want to set out on this scenic drive in Southern Arizona. By Noah Austin 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH Boynton Canyon Trail: Easy and easy to get to, this popular hike near Sedona is a great introduction to Red Rock Country. You won’t be alone, but so what? By Robert Stieve 56 WHERE IS THIS?

A male pyrrhuloxia (Cardinalis sinuatus) takes flight. The bird’s range includes parts of Central and Southeastern Arizona. John Cancalosi CANON EOS-1DS MARK II, 1/1600 SEC, F/5.6, ISO 200, 400 MM LENS

FRONT COVER: Saguaro Riders, by Chuck Abbott, appeared in the January 1952 issue of Arizona Highways. The photo was made in the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains. BACK COVER: A multicolored field of stocks (Matthiola incana) was the subject of this Allen C. Reed photo, published in February 1954. An accompanying Beverly Brasher story on these “ambassadors of beauty” said the flowers were being com- mercially cultivated in the Salt River Valley by Japanese-American growers. This photo was made just south of Phoenix.

2 OCTOBER 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s LETTER CONTRIBUTORS

JANUARY 2019 VOL. 95 NO. 1 raphy; illustrators such as Ted DeGrazia and Larry Toschik were turning our pages into artwork; 800-543-5432 and our writers, including David’s mother, Joyce www.arizonahighways.com Rockwood Muench, were as impressive as the GIFT SHOP: 602-712-2200 4x5 film and the oil-based paintings. ou’re probably wondering about our logo. For this issue, we focused on the photography, PUBLISHER Kelly Mero EDITOR Robert Stieve “Look at this, Evelyn. It just came in the but if we’d had more room, we would have resur- MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn mail. Arizona Highways has a new ... what’s rected some of the old stories and illustrations. ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin that doohickey on the front cover called? Is We might have made room for some of the letters Y EDITORIAL that a title? Or a nameplate?” to the editor, too. From an editor’s perspec- ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel

“I think it’s called a logo, dear. It’s also called tive, that’s the mother lode of the archive. And PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida

a masthead.” because of our broad circulation, the letters came CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney

Evelyn is right. And yes, it is different, but from all over the world. ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney

it’s not new. It made its debut in March 1952. For one month. The next month, “You may be interested to know that, out of MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey

George Avey and Raymond Carlson, our founding fathers, reverted to the curiosity, I checked our shelves yesterday and PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi

logo we’d used in February. The new logo came back in May, and then it dis- found that not one copy of all the back numbers DIRECTOR OF SALES appeared again until December 1953. In January, it was abandoned yet again. of Arizona Highways was in the library. Every one AND MARKETING Karen Farugia The on-again, off-again continued until was out in circulation.” That letter was sent to WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow July 1955, when the mad scientists finally us by Ann Forbes Fraser, who worked for the CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman stopped experimenting and made it our American Library in Paris. DIRECTOR OF FINANCE Matthew Bailey official logo. . Of course, there were corrections, too. “As one OPERATIONS/ For a while IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis Despite so much consistency with every- who for years has enjoyed Arizona Highways — thing else, we’ve been pretty fickle when it which first came to my desk when I was on the CORPORATE OR comes to our logo. Unlike Coke, IBM and New York Herald Tribune — I wish to call your TRADE SALES 602-712-2018 RAYMOND CARLSON (left)

Bass Ale, whose red-triangle logo hasn’t attention to some minor errors in the article Buf- SPONSORSHIP SALES An issue focusing on the 1950s wouldn’t be complete without a look at the editor who led changed since 1875, ours has had more than falo Robes on the Hoof. It so happens that I was REPRESENTATION On Media Publications Arizona Highways through that pivotal decade. Raymond Carlson’s name first appeared Deidra Viberg a dozen variations over the years. Maybe with Theodore Roosevelt on the only hunting 602-323-9701 on the masthead in 1938, when he replaced Bert Campbell as editor. At that time, the more. The current version has been around journey he made in Arizona. The herd of buffalo magazine was more a trade journal geared toward road builders and engineers. Mr. Carlson since January 2009, which makes it one of was there at the time, but T.R. had nothing to left Arizona Highways in late 1943 to serve in the U.S. Army during World War II; he LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] the graying druids in our pantheon of doo- do with getting it there.” The letter was signed: 2039 W. Lewis Avenue returned as editor for the March 1946 issue, again replacing Mr. Campbell. It was in the hickeys. “Nicholas Roosevelt, Big Sur, California.” Nicholas Phoenix, AZ 85009 1950s, though, that Mr. Carlson hit his stride, transforming Arizona Highways into a cele- The idea to set it aside this month and March 1952 was the president’s first cousin. bration of all things Arizona via stunning photography and thoughtful stories. Mr. Carlson’s flash back to 1952 came to me at a magazine conference. I was sitting in a And then there was this letter, from May 1950: GOVERNOR Douglas A. Ducey love for the state was evident in each of his monthly columns. A good example is July hollow room at the Brown Palace Hotel in Denver. The speaker was interest- “I thank you from my heart for the gift of Arizona DIRECTOR, 1957: “When we speak of Arizona’s skies,” he wrote, “we do so with both pride and plea- DEPARTMENT ing, but I was on deadline and had to figure out which images would be run- Highways! It has charm for us to see a country so OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski sure, because we honestly believe we have a superior product. Because we have such ning in this month’s portfolio. As I was flipping through the photos, I came different from ours which is only flowers and clear, light air out this way (no smog, no fog, no haze, no smoke, very little moisture and

to an image of two horseback riders in the desert near Tucson. There’s the forests. I never tire of examining again its illustra- Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published scarcely no dust), colors, forms and shapes are brighter and clearer than in areas less cover, I thought. But I pictured it with an older logo. Something from the ’50s. tions so admirably made, and wondering about monthly by the Arizona Department of Transportation. blessed. … This, we know, sounds just a little on the bragging side, so please bear with us Subscription price: $24 a year in the U.S., $44 outside I was sitting with a colleague from a Toronto-based magazine. I asked her if this country that I shall never see in reality but the U.S. Single copy: $4.99 U.S. Call 800-543-5432. UP- until you can come out and see for yourself.” Mr. Carlson retired in 1971, but his presence is she thought the idea was crazy. She didn’t think it was crazy. So, in the mid- only in imagination.” Turns out, the letter was DATED PRIVACY POLICY: Our privacy policy has been as strong as ever, and his legacy inspires every issue of Arizona Highways. updated to reflect the new changes in data protection dle of the keynote, I emailed our publisher, he signed off and ... voila! from Dr. Albert Schweitzer, and it was sent from laws, including the EU’s General Data Protection Regu- There is no golden era in the history of this magazine. The archive is too what was then known as French Equatorial Africa. lations. To read our updated privacy policy, go to www GEORGE AVEY (right) .arizonahighways.com/privacy-policy. Subscription cor­re­ Raymond Carlson may have been the driving force behind Arizona Highways’ transforma- deep. Like the Packers roster in the Lombardi years. Or any album by Drake. Seven decades later, we still think that letter spon­dence and change of address information: Arizona But the 1950s were special. In his first column of the decade, Mr. Carlson is pretty cool. We like that old doohickey on the Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Peri­ tion, but it was George Avey, the magazine’s longtime art director, who put Mr. Carlson’s odical postage paid at Phoenix, AZ, and at additional vision on the page. Like Mr. Carlson, Mr. Avey started at the magazine in the 1930s, then wrote: “To you and you, whoever you are, wherever you are, we hope 1950 cover, too. And everything else that our founding mailing office. Canada Post international publications will be a good year, full of sunshine and bright, clear skies.” fathers masterminded in the 1950s. As Mr. Carl- mail product (Cana­dian distribution) sales agree­ment put his career on hold for military service during World War II. He’s perhaps best known for His words set the stage for an era in which Mr. Carlson’s vision for the son used to say: “A thing of beauty is a joy forever.” No. 40732015. Send returns to Quad/Graphics, P.O. Box his maps, which featured his whimsical illustrations of Arizona’s people and places. But 456, Niagara Falls ON L2E 6V2. Post­master: Send ad- magazine kicked in and our circulation skyrocketed around the globe. Every- dress changes to Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big his goal of making the magazine more visually appealing wasn’t a one-person job. He thing was better: Ansel Adams, Esther Henderson, Allen Reed, Ray Manley, ROBERT STIEVE, EDITOR Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Copy­right © 2019 by the Ari­zona reached out to photographers such as Ansel Adams, Esther Henderson and Ray Manley, Department of Trans­­por­­tation. Repro­duc­tion in whole or David Muench and others were pushing the boundaries of landscape photog- Follow me on Instagram: @arizonahighways in part with­­out permission is prohibited. The magazine and to artists such as Maynard Dixon, Ross Santee and Ted DeGrazia. The effort paid off: does not accept and is not responsible for un­solicited Arizona Highways’ circulation climbed from 70,000 just after World War II to more than mater­ ials.­ 200,000 by the end of the 1950s. Mr. Avey stayed on until 1972, a year after Mr. Carlson’s PRODUCED IN THE USA retirement. — NOAH AUSTIN

2 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL MARKOW PHOTOGRAPH: ARIZONA HIGHWAYS ARCHIVES www.arizonahighways.com 3 LETTERS [email protected] THE JOURNAL THE BEAUTY DANIELLE GELLER’S ESSAY on the “Beauty Way” [The Beauty of Tall OF TALL Things, November 2018] was lovely. I knew of it as “Night Way,” and I referred THINGS to it in a talk I gave on Earth Day almost AN ESSAY BY DANIELLE GELLER 30 years ago. Danielle’s exposition gives us all something to think about. I thank her DECIDED TO VISIT Canyon de Chelly after my first weaving workshop on the Navajo Reservation. Our workshop for that, and I thank Arizona Highways for Ifacilitator scheduled a trip to the canyon during our weeklong class, but I skipped the trip and stayed behind to weave instead. Luckily for me, I didn’t miss much. The spring rains flooded the streambed and turned the canyon floor to mud, and the tour publishing it. never made it to its final destination: Spider Rock, the home of Spider Woman. Under What I know about Spider Woman I have had to learn from Heavy snow covers the books and the internet. Even though my great-grandmother was summit of Spider Rock and the Paul Cooley, Culver City, California a weaver and traditional adviser, she passed away years before I surrounding landscape of the Navajo Nation’s Canyon de Chelly National Monument. Claire Curran

www.arizonahighways.com the Moon 49 A crescent moon looms November 2018 over one of the teepee-like rooms at the Wigwam ovember’s Arizona Highways came in ond home cannot. Living half the year to be recognized as equal partners in our Motel in Holbrook. Located today’s mail — the last I’m to receive in Cottonwood, on the lower flank of shared world. I may not last long enough along Historic Route 66 and N in Michigan. I’ll move this week Mingus Mountain, near another daughter to see that full blossoming, but it’s com- present-day Interstate 40, the motel is one of three to Ohio to live closer to my youngest and across the Verde Valley from my son’s ing, hopefully sooner rather than later. surviving members of the daughter. I’m 90 years old; my family home in Sedona, I see the rocks above Arizona Highways did an admirable job Wigwam chain; the other worries about me. Packing is urgent, but his house and the whole valley between of portraying a beautiful woman inside two are in San Bernardino, I ignored all else to read my magazine as I drive down my street. When I leave and out so women all over this country California, and Cave City, from cover to cover. Work can wait. My Arizona each year, it always feels like can hold her up as their ideal. Like Lee- Kentucky. For more informa- thirst for Arizona Highways and my sec- leaving home. But when I leave the Gatewood, we need to earn our place in tion, call the Wigwam Motel Midwest, where I was born, I feel like the sun, and once we gain it, we’ll have at 928-524-3048 or visit a bird uncaged. I love both places, but to continue to strive to keep it in a world www.sleepinawigwam.com. U.S. Postal Service STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION Arizona holds my heart in a very special of sexual equality, just as our husbands PENTAX K-1 MARK II, 1/15 SEC, Title of Publication: Arizona Highways Publisher: Kelly Mero F/8, ISO 3200, 56 MM LENS Publication No.: ISSN 0004-1521 Editor: Robert Stieve way. and sons have had to work and keep Date of Filing: September 10, 2018 Managing Editor: Kelly Vaughn; address below Frequency of issues: Monthly Complete mailing address Your article First Chair [November working for their individual places in the Number of issuesof known office of publication: published annually: Twelve 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, 2018] is so encouraging! Born in 1928, world they have inhabited for so long. Annual subscription price: (Maricopa) AZ 85009-2893 $24.00 U.S. one year I was always “spiky,” “independent,” Ideally they should be proving them- Owner: State of Arizona 206 S. 17th Ave. sometimes “damned independent.” Striv- selves alongside women and men, not Phoenix, AZ 85007 Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding ing for equality was an uphill trek; it was over or against women. While the ideal 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: None The purpose, function, and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt status for federal income tax purposes has not changed during preceding 12 months. not a women’s era. I was so fortunate to of equal opportunity and respect must

ISSUE DATE FOR CIRCULATION DATA BELOW: marry a man who considered women’s be earned by each separate and unique Nov. ’17-Oct. ’18 Oct. ’18 Average no. Actual no. work of equal value to men’s. We divided individual, I hope for women to find their copies each copies of issue during single issue family responsibility evenly when he was own personal potential without discrimi- preceding published nearest 12 months to filing date EXTENT AND NATURE OF CIRCULATION the full-time breadwinner and I held the nation, and someday I know they will. A. Total number copies printed 124,387 124,862 B. Paid circulation fort at home with our five children. At his Ms. Lee-Gatewood is a shining example 1. Outside-county, mail subscriptions 103,837 104,602 2. In-county subscriptions -- -- retirement (which he always termed “our for us all. (I just hope for her that she may 3. Sales through dealers, carriers, street vendors, counter sales and retirement”) he took over half the home- be relieved of half the housework!) I com- other ­non-USPS paid distribution 5,275 5,702 4. Other classes mailed through the USPS 1,713 1,740 making chores so we could have “equal mend Arizona Highways for featuring her C. Total paid circulation 110,825 112,044 D. Free distribution by mail 1. Outside-county 157 155 leisure time together.” (He still did inspiring story. 2. In-county -- -- 3. Other classes mailed through the USPS -- -- household repairs and I did the mending, Beatrice Fulton Keeber, Lebanon, Ohio 4. Free distribution outside the mail 2,269 2,075 E. Total free distribution 2,425 2,230 to utilize our learned skills most practi- F. Total distribution 113,250 114,274 G. Copies not distributed 11,137 10,589 cally.) H. Total 124,387 124,862 contact us If you have thoughts or com- I. Percent paid circulation 97.9% 98.0% ments about anything in Arizona Highways, we’d J. Paid Electronic copies 1,537 1,541 Gwendena Lee-Gatewood is an inspi- K. Total paid print copies + paid electronic copies 112,362 113,585 love to hear from you. We can be reached at editor@ L. Total print distribution + paid electronic copies 114,787 115,815 ration for women. Not just women of her M. Percent paid circulation (print & electronic copies) 97.9% 98.1% arizonahighways.com, or by mail at 2039 W. Lewis I certify that the statements made by me are correct and complete. Native birth, but all women. This is an Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009. For more information, Michael Bianchi, Director of Production and Logistics era of women’s rising, its goal for women visit www.arizonahighways.com.

4 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY KERRICK JAMES nature J

Kit Foxes

NOAH AUSTIN

Kit foxes (Vulpes macrotis) are ideally adapted to a desert environment. These diminutive members of the dog family are best known for their large ears, which give them superior hearing but also help them shed body heat. The foxes don’t need to drink water and can get the moisture they need from their prey — primarily kangaroo rats, but occasionally mice and rabbits. And they escape the worst of the desert heat by mostly staying in underground dens during the day, then venturing out at Visitors explore the night to hunt. The pup shown here will be monument near fed and cared for by both of its parents for Faraway Ranch in its first five or six months of life, then will the 1920s. be on its own. Because they’re nocturnal, kit foxes are difficult to spot in the wild, but their range includes most of Arizona and parts of the other Southwestern states.

ADDITIONAL READING: To learn more about Arizona’s wildlife, pick up a copy of the Arizona Highways Wildlife Guide, which features 125 of the state’s native birds, mammals, reptiles and other animal spe- cies. To order online, visit www .shoparizonahighways.com.

6 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN CANCALOSI www.arizonahighways.com 7 J history dining J

THIS MONTH jalapeños in a cream cheese base. It’s IN HISTORY Lola Empanada both immensely satisfying and gone from n In January 1850, the An empanada is the Latin American equivalent of a calzone. If you like the latter, the table far too soon. Oatman family arrives in try the former, and when you do, head to Lola’s place, where the fillings range The empanada is the Spanish and ‘Captain’ Tucson by wagon. The from green chile to Nutella, with a lot of mouthwatering meat in between. Latin American equivalent of a calzone. family is best known for The size and filling vary, but Negron- John Hance Olive Oatman, who sur- NOAH AUSTIN Abreu’s version is large enough to be vived capture and years of eaten as a meal. And it’s different from Like many others, John enslavement by Mohaves. THERE’S NOT REALLY a convenient pare some of the restaurant’s titular dish. the empanadas you’re likely to find at Hance was drawn to the n In January 1881, news- time to interview Lara “Lola” Negron- Empanadas, it seems, don’t adhere to a Mexican restaurant. “It’s New York Grand Canyon by its mineral papers in Arizona and Abreu about Lola Empanada, her res- mealtimes. From the first bite, it’s easy style and Latin-Caribbean fusion,” the deposits, but his interest around the world publicize taurant in San Tan Valley, southeast of to see why: A crispy, flaky crust gives Big Apple native says. “I’m Puerto Rican, in mining was gradually a 300-year-old prophecy Phoenix. Even at 2 p.m. on a sweltering way to an ever-changing array of savory and my husband is from the Dominican from an English so-called Wednesday in September, she keeps get- fillings. On this Wednesday, the menu Republic. We lived in Miami for a while, replaced by his love for witch, Mother Shipton, ting interrupted to take orders and pre- includes one with bacon, chicken and too. We just kind of created our own telling tall tales to tourists. who predicted the world genre. And we realized this style of food “I can make these tenderfeet would end that year. just didn’t exist out here.” believe that a frog eats n St. Luke’s Hospital in Between stints on active duty in the boiled eggs,” he said. Tucson throws a char- military, Negron-Abreu tested the market ity ball, the Baile de las by preparing empanadas and selling NOAH AUSTIN Flores, on January 16, 1936, them on Facebook. Satisfied with the to celebrate its years response, she opened Lola Empanada in here are plenty of stories of service to men with April 2017. She’s retired from the military about “Captain” John tuberculosis. The annual now, and many of her Facebook guinea Hance, who’s thought event began in 1919 and pigs have become regular customers. And T to have been the Grand continues today. it didn’t take long for the world to notice: Canyon’s first permanent In late 2017, Yelp named Lola Empanada European-American settler. the best-reviewed Arizona restaurant to Many of them are tales the John Hance poses on the Grand Canyon’s Bright Angel Trail with his two mules. open that year, and a resulting Buzzfeed pioneer himself told. And some 50 YEARS AGO story produced an overwhelming IN ARIZONA HIGHWAYS of them might even be true. But here’s how est trade rat I ever saw” smoking it. (History response. “I couldn’t believe it,” Negron- Grand Canyon National Park puts it: “Hance’s failed to record Roosevelt’s response.) Abreu says. “There was one Saturday stories were infamous in how they began in There were others, too — such as the time when I had to close at 7, instead of 8, the realm of the believable, migrated to the Hance claimed to have jumped his favorite because we ran out of food. It was a little merely plausible, and ended in the domain of white horse over the Canyon to escape a band traumatizing, but it was wonderful. It the completely fantastic.” of Ute warriors. Historian Shane Murphy, in was exciting, and we learned a lot.” Here’s what we know: Hance was born in a 2015 story for The Journal of Arizona History, Yelp reviewers and others rave about rural Tennessee in the late 1830s (or maybe notes that Hance’s stories have colored the the green chile chicken empanada, which the early 1840s) and served in the Confeder- pioneer’s entire legacy: “His life and activities remains the most popular. Others are ate States Army in the Civil War (but not as a have become so entangled in the tales he told filled with beef, chorizo sausage or even captain) before settling in Arizona around the that they are now nearly one [and] the same, crab meat. For vegetarians, there’s one 1870s. Before long, he was at the Canyon, first fused together and sent ever onward.” with spinach and ricotta cheese. And prospecting and later guiding visitors around For his part, Hance was unapologetic about Our January 1969 issue dessert options include empanadas made the South Rim. He improved an old Havasu- the yarns he spun. “I’ve got to tell stories to was all about the saguaro with pineapple or Nutella. pai route into the gorge, but that route, now them people for their money,” an acquaintance cactus — which we called Above all, Lola Empanada is a family known as the Old Hance Trail, was subject to recalled him telling her. “And if I don’t tell the “monarch of the des- business that includes Negron-Abreu’s frequent washouts. So Hance created the New them, who will?” ert” after a reader from husband, her parents and even her kids. Hance Trail, a steep route to the Colorado Hance died in 1919 after suffering a stroke. Maine wrote to say she “We spend more time here than we do at River. It’s still in use today. He’s buried at the Canyon’s Pioneer Cemetery, wanted to know more our house,” she says. “We just try to make Notably, Hance accompanied President and the Colorado River’s Hance Rapid is about this “strange plant.” it a really comfortable place for everybody Theodore Roosevelt when the latter visited the named in his honor. Dozens of saguaro pho- — to give people good, simple food that Canyon in 1903. On that occasion, Hance sup- tographs accompanied maybe they haven’t tried before.” posedly told the president one of his legend- EDITOR’S NOTE: Next month, Grand Canyon National an essay by Carle Hodge, Just don’t expect her to have much ary tall tales: the time he was on a camping Park will celebrate its 100th anniversary, and we’ll be a science writer who time to talk. trip, put down his pipe before going to sleep dedicating our entire issue to that important milestone. frequently contributed to and awoke to find “the biggest, fattest, sassi- Stay tuned. Arizona Highways. SAN TAN VALLEY Lola Empanada, 5452 E. Skyline Drive, 480-987-0203, www.facebook.com/lola.empanada.77

8 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH: COURTESY OF GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK MUSEUM COLLECTION PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL MARKOW www.arizonahighways.com 9 around arizona J

hadn’t seen anything like it. I Guess You Didn’t Know It, “I thought, This is amazing music,” she says. “I ended up backstage with Sonny but I’m a Fiddle Player, Too Terry, Brownie McGhee and Arlo Guthrie.” Marie Rhines of Prescott is a classically trained violinist and award-winning When Guthrie asked Rhines to play a composer from Massachusetts. Her destiny was a first chair in the Boston fiddle tune, she played him a Bach gigue. Symphony. That is, until she met Arlo Guthrie. “He said, ‘Why don’t you go learn how to play the real thing?’ and I said, ‘OK,’ ” KATHY MONTGOMERY Rhines recalls. “So I went back and got every album I could find … and started arie Rhines steps away from the England Conservatory at age 9, Rhines playing them, trying to teach myself how stove to open her front door. On was playing with chamber groups in ven- to play fiddle. I found these obscure Scot- M this late-fall day, ravens circle ues such as Boston’s Jordan Hall by the tish fiddle tunes, in a book, that were a sky streaked with tissue-thin clouds. time she was in junior high. very difficult. Six months later, I gave my Rhines watches, fascinated, as a coyote Interested in learning about the world, first concert where I played fiddle tunes trots up the narrow asphalt street. It she studied history and political science during a regular concert. And people moves quickly along the white split-rail in college. But she returned to music loved it.” fence lining a grassy hillside dotted with for her graduate studies, earning a joint Rhines had been fascinated with the junipers and tidy, well-spaced houses master’s degree from Yale University and West since she was 3, and, of course, at the edge of Prescott. Attracted by the the NEC, where she studied with Joseph it began with music. She sings a line smell of cooking food, the coyote pauses, Silverstein, then the concertmaster of the from the Woody Guthrie recording that looking like it might come in. Then, see- Boston Symphony. started it: “Whoopie ti yi yo, git along, ing Rhines, it hurries up the road. A future in classical music seemed des- little dogies.” Considered a prodigy as a child, tined until that chance encounter with After her mother died, she decided it Rhines, a classically trained violinist Guthrie and guitarist John Pilla at the was time to go. It was Rhines’ personal and award-winning composer from Denver airport. She and Pilla struck up declaration of independence. Massachusetts, has performed at ven- a conversation, and he invited her to the “This was the reward for all the work ues from New York’s Lincoln Center to club where they were performing with I did,” she says, “to be able to live in the Canada’s Edmonton Folk Music Festival. Sonny Terry and Brownie McGhee. A most spectacular part of the world that An early encounter with folk music icon local fiddler got the show going. Rhines exists on Earth, I think.” Arlo Guthrie introduced her to a style of She’s currently at work on a violin con- American fiddle music that set the course certo based on her musical scholarship. for her career and her life. “The idea was to write beautiful music … Rhines grew up in Lexington, Mas- that touches the heart and the soul,” she sachusetts, “the perfect small town.” She says. “It’s romantic and exciting because walked past the Minuteman monument of the fiddle influence. It’s happy, and it every day on her way to school. explodes with joy.” “That statue was beautiful to me,” she As with every piece she writes or recalls. “I never was told what it was for, performs, Rhines’ goal is to remind the but you knew just looking at it. ... It was audience that the world is a beautiful a feeling. Freedom is more of a feeling.” place, which is why she needs scenery to Music was important in Rhines’ fam- compose. “It’s a spiritual impression the ily. Her mother had a lovely singing voice. music has to give them that is beauty and Her brother studied violin, her sister love and the world at its finest,” she says. piano and voice. That Rhines chose the Music is the same forever, Rhines violin was strictly happenstance. adds. Like freedom, it represents a door “I just found a violin and started to to eternity. “That’s the way I’ve lived my play it,” she recalls. “No reason. My life,” she says, “to study what I thought father and mother were clearing out an was going to become important in the attic, and they found a violin. They said, end. Hopefully, what I’ve done in music ‘Would you like to learn to play it?’ ” has improved the quality of life for this After beginning lessons at the New world. That’s what keeps me going.”

PRESCOTT www.marierhines.com

10 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT BAXTER www.arizonahighways.com 11 J photography

The Way We Were

PHOTO EDITOR JEFF KIDA

n our February 1957 issue, contributing a DSLR with a full-frame sensor, and go photographer Carlos Elmer wrote a short with a zoom lens such as 24-70 mm or Istory titled For Contentment. He started by 24-120 mm. Gary suggested starting with asking if readers were “nervous, run-down a smartphone, especially if you’re having and afraid to face the mountain of paper- trouble deciding on the subjects you hope work on their desk.” His prescription was a to photograph. journey into the world of photography. I think there’s merit in both approaches. Specifically, Elmer recommended a Cameras, lenses and even smartphones relatively inexpensive, but professional, are tools that help us express a passion camera outfit that included: a 4x5 press we hope to share with others. If you’re camera (a folding view camera); a lens thinking about making an investment in with normal focal length, along with a photography, ask yourself: When I get free wide-angle lens; a hand-held exposure time, what are my favorite things to do? meter, since meters weren’t built into Would making photos add to my experi- cameras back then; at least five film hold- ence? And what’s my budget? ers, each of which held two sheets of 4x5 Answering these questions will help film; a sturdy wooden tripod, along with you customize your photo gear. And once a ball head to hold the camera on top of that happens, you might find yourself the tripod; and a strong, compact carrying benefiting from the advice Elmer gave six case with a handle. decades ago. In many ways, view cameras reflect how photographers in Elmer’s day PHOTO approached their craft. The nature of WORKSHOP these devices requires a shooter to slow down and consider every exposure. Com- pared with the cameras most of us use today, view cameras are big, cumber- some devices best used on a tripod. They have no automatic functions: You have to use a hand-held light meter for your exposure, then choose shutter speeds and f-stops. Focus is done manually on a piece of ground glass, using a magnifier to look at an upside-down image. And the Slot Canyons and the photographer has to do it while shrouded Paria Plateau by a dark cloth. (Try that during a typical March 23-27, Page Southern Arizona summer.) Navajo photographer and Arizona Highways We don’t know what Elmer would contributor LeRoy DeJolie guides prescribe today — he died in 1993 — so I participants in this workshop to some of put the question to two other longtime the Colorado Plateau’s most photogenic contributors, Jack Dykinga and Gary Ladd. and captivating canyons, along with Horse- Both are veterans of large-format film shoe Bend and other area attractions. and present-day digital cameras. Jack Information: 888-790-7042 or suggested a simple kit that allows you www.ahps.org to shoot a variety of situations. Shop for

To learn more about photography, visit www.arizonahighways.com/photography.

12 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPHS: ABOVE, LEFT NATHANIEL SMALLEY ABOVE PAUL MARKOW www.arizonahighways.com 13 J photography

Trip Down the Colorado

ROBERT STIEVE

On June 20, 1940, Barry Goldwater and eight other “river rats” began a voyage of 1,463 miles down the Green and Colorado rivers. The trip, which was headed by Norman Nevills, fulfilled a “lifetime ambition” for the man who would later become known as “Mr. Arizona.” In addition to his still-photography equipment, Barry took along a movie camera, and over the course of the trip, he shot roughly 3,000 feet of footage. After the trip, he put together a 29-minute color film of the journey, which he showed around the state. “What better way is there to see Arizona than by traveling around to towns like these?” he wrote. “The long quiet desert between Phoenix and Yuma, the green fields on the way to Tucson, the rolling hills to Wicken- burg, and the mountains on the way to Prescott and Window Rock ... all of these things have been the reward for the work it has taken to give the show.”

To see more of Barry Goldwater’s photography, check out Photographs by Barry M. Goldwater: The Arizona Highways Collection at Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West. The exhibition will run from January 6 through June 23, 2019. To learn more about the show, visit www.scottsdale museumwest.org. To learn more about the Barry & Peggy Goldwater Foundation, which is working to restore and digitize Barry Goldwater’s 15,000 photographs, visit www.goldwaterfoundation.org.

14 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY BARRY GOLDWATER, COURTESY OF THE BARRY & PEGGY GOLDWATER FOUNDATION www.arizonahighways.com 15 J lodging

Iron Horse Inn across Arizona’s first federally desig- nated Wild and Scenic River to Dead Built as a motor court in the 1930s, the Iron Horse Inn is one more on a Horse Ranch State Park, and it echoes growing list of great places in Cottonwood to lay your head. And for the with the chatter of birds, especially in waking hours, the courtyard is the place to be. spring. Tanagers and other colorful song- birds share the river’s tall cottonwood KATHY MONTGOMERY canopy with black hawks and kestrels. Hummingbirds sip from desert willow THE TERM “IRON HORSE” conjures In the mornings, guests cluster around blossoms. Phainopeplas feast on clouds images of early rail travel, but the Iron tables shaded by colorful umbrellas, of tiny flies over tranquil, cattail-lined Horse Inn takes its name from a street- recline on comfortable padded chairs coves, serenaded by red-winged black- side equine sculpture, not a steam loco- and sip complimentary fresh-ground birds singing their flute-like songs. motive. However, the hotel was built to coffee from the machine in the vending Some of them even find their way accommodate a different kind of horse- room. Strolling back from dinner in the to the leafy canopy over the patio at power altogether. evening, they linger under the soft lights the Iron Horse Inn, where they delight The Eden family built the Iron Horse that make the spot feel enchanted, the guests who’ve come to roost there at Inn as a motor court in the 1930s. But by walls still radiating the sun’s warmth. the end of a day spent enjoying the river the 1970s, cars had outgrown the street- It’s no surprise the Edens chose river or in the shops, restaurants and tasting level garages, so the owners converted rock to build the inn. An archway mark- rooms within easy walking distance. them into guest rooms. The building’s ing the “Gateway to the Verde River” Eventually, the birds will have the patio stone-and-concrete construction made lies just across the street. The Jail Trail, to themselves as guests wander into expansion difficult, so the rooms named for the stone building at the trail- clean, recently renovated rooms, where remained small, and the central patio head, begins here. That building is now thick, textured walls and comfortable became the inn’s natural gathering spot. a fiber and clothing gallery, surrounded beds with soft microfiber sheets ensure And an inviting one it is: a tree-shaded by myrtle trees and facing a drinking a sound night’s sleep in quiet unimagi- oasis, decorated with a cascading foun- establishment called the State Bar. nable since the days of the horse and the tain, vines and potted succulents. The easy Jail Trail meanders north steam engine.

COTTONWOOD Iron Horse Inn, 1034 N. Main Street, 928-634-8031, www.ironhorseoldtown.com

16 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN BURCHAM OCK ’N’ ROLL, MARILYN MONROE, JOLTIN’ Sonoita Creek, Jerome, Taliesin West, Mission San Xavier Joe, “I Like Ike” … the 1950s were the All-American del Bac and fishing holes in the White Mountains graced the decade. Or, as the beatniks might have said, “It covers. The photography was large-format, four-color and was like fat city, man.” The Hula-Hoop was born spectacular. And subscribers from around the world, such as in the 1950s, and so were super glue, Saran Wrap, Dr. Jerzy Loth of Warsaw, Poland, wrote letters expressing color TV, Tylenol, Velcro, Mr. Potato Head, AA batteries and their appreciation for the magazine: “The first number [issue] Rthe microwave oven, a newfangled appliance that cost a whop- for 1955 has arrived. It was quite a sensation, not only for me, ping $1,300 when it hit the shelves in 1955 — that’s the equiva- but for a bunch of my friends, who are regularly perusing your lent of $12,276.77 in today’s economy. wonderful paper with great interest.” Gunsmoke, which starred longtime Phoenix resident Because of the state’s beautiful landscapes — the Grand The 1950s Amanda Blake as Miss Kitty, also debuted in 1955, the same Canyon, Canyon de Chelly, Monument Valley, the saguaros An Arizona Highways Scrapbook year that Rock Around the Clock spent eight weeks at the top of down south — most of the images in the magazine were the Billboard charts and the Brooklyn Dodgers won the World focused on broad panoramas. But there were lifestyle shots, Series. Locally, the 1950s welcomed spring training to Phoenix, too, and it was one of those that inspired this issue. where the population surpassed 200,000. Arizona Highways was A few months ago, we posted an image of Sedona (left) on growing back then, too. Insta​gram. It was from November 1951, back when Sedona was In 1946, the circulation of the magazine was 70,000. By 1950, still a sleepy little village surrounded by apple orchards, a Hol- that number had soared to 175,000. In the first issue of the first lywood movie set and a few guest ranches. In the photo, all year of that decade, Editor Raymond Carlson marked the mile- you can see is a dirt road lined with a café, a motel and a cam- stone with his usual smorgasbord of vowels and consonants. era shop. In the background are Steamboat Rock and Wilson “The arrival of a new year is an adventure,” he wrote. “We Mountain. The photo caption reads: “Transient accommoda- hope it will be better than the last, and indeed it should be tions are offered to the traveler to the Sedona area.”

LEFT: Steamboat Rock because we are older and wiser and The Instagram post generated a lot of response, mostly from and Wilson Mountain loom should know better to extract the full flabbergasted readers who couldn’t believe how much had over Sedona in a Herb measure of happiness and contentment changed in a relatively short amount of time. “Absolutely love McLaughlin photo from from each and every passing day. A our November 1951 issue. it,” Marisa Corti wrote. “It makes me want to time travel just BELOW: A decade of new year brings new horizons, roseate to see it.” In another comment, Lisa Frias shared her personal Arizona Highways covers, and promising; new hopes to be ful- story: “That’s about the year my parents were looking for a from 1950 (far left) to 1959 filled; new and cherished wishes that place to settle and raise a family. They looked at Oak Creek (far right). may be realized. We start out with our Canyon and Sedona, but ‘didn’t think the area would ever best foot forward, full of staunch resolve, and if it eventually amount to anything.’ So, they chose Phoenix instead. If only turns out that this, the new year, is the same old bore as the they’d had a crystal ball at the time.” last, surely it is no one’s fault but our own.” Although the change has been most dramatic in Sedona, just Turns out, the new year, and the next nine years of the about every other place in Arizona has been recast over the decade, would indeed be “better than the last.” The booming past 70 years. For better or worse depends on your perspective. prosperity of the Eisenhower years was reflected in the pages For us, pulling this issue together was a chance to dig through of Arizona Highways as the circulation eventually eclipsed the archive and relive not only Arizona history, but also the By Robert Stieve • Art Direction by Keith Whitney 200,000 issues per month. Mr. Carlson’s magazine was a jug- history of this publication, which was in a renaissance in the gernaut. Like Elvis Presley, overhead-valve V8 engines and the middle of the last century. Enjoy the trip back in time. We Montreal Canadiens. Stories about the Chiricahua Mountains, think it’s a pretty good one.

18 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 19 November 1957 Canyon Lake, northeast of the Phoenix area, was the scene of this Allen C. Reed photo in our November 1957 issue. It accompanied a story, also by Reed, about water skiing on Arizona’s reservoirs. “Motorboats on trailers towed behind family cars are quite a common sight along Arizona’s cactus-lined desert highways,” Reed wrote. September 1956 From Phoenix, Canyon Lake is If you live in or have visited Phoenix lately, you know much has changed since Herb accessed via the Apache Trail McLaughlin made this photograph of Camelback Mountain. It appeared on the inside back (State Route 88), and it continues cover of the September 1956 issue, which was primarily focused on aerial photography. to host water skiing today. Today, the population of Phoenix is more than 1.6 million people (based on 2016 data It’s also known for its fishing, from the U.S. Census Bureau), and it’s estimated that approximately 700,000 people hike and the species there include Camelback Mountain each year. Recently, the Echo Canyon Trailhead, a popular starting largemouth bass, rainbow trout point for a trip to the top, underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation. and channel catfish.

SPORTS CHAMPIONS, 1950 World Series Champions: New York Yankees NBA Champions: Minneapolis Lakers Stanley Cup Champions: Detroit Red Wings

April 1950 In our April 1950 issue, we explored the history of Cave Creek, a community north of Phoenix. At the time, author Nora Woods wrote, the town was celebrating the paving of the road to Phoenix. This photo, credited to McLaughlin & Co., shows residents gathered outside Cave Creek’s small community center. Someone commuting to Phoenix, Woods wrote, “can still find land from $50 an acre in large tracts to $500 an acre for choice sites on the main road.” Land is a little more expensive today, but Cave Creek remains a small community. Its population is around 5,000.

20 JANUARY 2019 April 1957 When construction began on Phoenix’s Encanto Park in 1935, plans included a lagoon, a boat dock, a golf course, a playground and a band shell. Three years later, the park was complete, and the brainchild of millionaire philanthropist William G. Hartranft soon became a major recreation destination. These photographs, Encanto Park Swimming Pool (below) and Encanto Park Lagoon (bottom), appeared in an issue of Arizona Highways that celebrated Phoenix’s growth. The park’s south side was renovated in 1982, and the lagoon and channel system were revamped — along with other updates — in 1986.

May 1955/November 1951 In the 1950s, Sedona was a place of expansive red-rock landscapes, farms and small homesteads — a far cry from the major tourist destination it’s become. These photographs — Ray Manley’s Sedona, the Red Rock Country (above) and Mike Roberts’ A Home in the West (left) — reflect the town’s agricultural roots. The area is nourished by perennial Oak Creek, and many families grew fruits (primarily peaches and apples) and vegetables for home use during the era. Some even carted their wares to markets in Flagstaff and Jerome.

“The real key to living in Phoenix is excitement. Partly it’s the excitement of a growth town. ... Life is suddenly filled with activity and purpose.” — ‘Businessweek,’ circa 1957

22 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 23 February 1959 “We address ourselves this month to the most pleasant proposition that fishing is good in Arizona,” Editor Raymond Carlson wrote in our February 1959 issue. Most of the issue was devoted to anglers and angling, and the photos of the state’s various fishing spots included Bob Bradshaw’s shot of Oak Creek (right) and Ray Manley’s photo of a “lucky strike” on Big Lake in the White Mountains (below). From a revenue standpoint, the fishing is still good in Arizona: In 2015 (the most recent year for which statistics are available), the Arizona Game and Fish Department reported nearly $6.5 million in revenue from fishing licenses, plus nearly $10 million from combination hunting and fishing licenses.

April 1958 Although the population of the copper, silver and gold mining town of Bisbee had dropped to fewer than 6,000 people by 1950, it remained the Cochise County seat. This Ray Manley photograph, Bisbee, Amid the Hills of Old Cochise, appeared in the April 1958 issue of Arizona Highways as part of an issue dedicated to Cochise County. In his editor’s letter, Raymond Carlson wrote: “And then we come to such THE U.S. IN 1955 modern places as Douglas, Bisbee President: and Fort Huachuca and yesterday is Dwight D. Eisenhower forgotten. Old Cochise is today and Vice President: tomorrow.” Today, Bisbee is best Richard M. Nixon known as an artists community and Population: 165,931,202 tourist destination.

24 JANUARY 2019 Phoenix: The City’s Government Excerpted from our April 1957 issue

T TAKES A HEAP OF DOING to keep a wildly grow- ber of both, or a total of 350,000 living in the Greater ing city like Phoenix from coming unstuck. Phoenix area. All of them have to get downtown to their In a period of just six years — from 1950 to jobs, to the movies or to shop for Uncle Willie’s birthday 1956 — the city’s population ballooned from present. And so they all use city streets, whether or not 106,000 to 172,000 and its area (via annexation) they contribute much to their maintenance. from 17 square miles to 36. This means not only collect- Consider, too, the fact that Phoenix is a city that Iing taxes from a lot of new citizens, but providing them people like to come to from somewhere else. They with municipal services in return for their money. And pour in during the warm winter months, and, because as any city employee will tell you, nobody is in a bigger Phoenix is now nicely air conditioned, they keep coming hurry than a newly-annexed property owner wanting even in summer. So the parks have to be supervised the police protection, fire protection and sewer connections. year around. There have to be enough cops on hand He’s willing to wait until tomorrow, but if he has to wait to keep great quantities of people — both citizens and until the day after tomorrow, the city manager is liable transients — from banging up their fenders at street to get a testy letter. intersections. And there have to be enough firemen That Phoenix’s city government has been able to around to tidy things up after somebody falls asleep in measure up to this towering challenge is attested by his motel room with a cigarette in his hand. its winning of no less than 23 different awards from Somehow, though, these things get done, and national organizations in the last two years. All these, a great many other things besides. As, for example, in addition to its designation by the National Municipal installing nearly 40 miles of arterial street lighting in League in 1950 as an All-American City for improvement only five years. And treating more than 7 billion gallons in municipal government. of sewage every year. And teaching little children to be The fact of being a city in the middle of the desert safe drivers when they grow up, by giving grade-school serves only to complicate the problems that pile up at driver-training courses with miniature cars and simu- City Hall. lated traffic conditions. Take water, for instance. Phoenix laps up more than What all this adds up to is that Phoenix, in just a tri- 45 million gallons of it during an average 24-hour period. fling few years, has grown from a small, cozy,mañana - In summer, when people begin to understand how type town to a big and slightly frenetic city. The end of a grilled cheese sandwich feels and swimming pools this growth is not in sight. For thousands of people are start filling up with water and human beings, consump- still being attracted by the magical Phoenix combina- tion jumps to 89 million gallons a day. tion of big city plus Western living plus a climate that Then take streets. The city has to maintain streets seems to be good for what’s wrong with them. not merely for the people living within its limits (and Governing a city where this sort of thing goes on is paying city taxes), but also for the people living outside enough to give a mayor and city manager the twitches. (and not paying city taxes). There’s about an equal num- But then maybe the climate is good for that, too.

“The city has all the problems of a full-fledged metropolis, including downtown parking problems and traffic jams and a smog threat serious enough to cause the formation of an anti-smog committee.” — ‘Newsweek,’ circa 1957 A rodeo parade runs through downtown Phoenix, as photographed by Herb McLaughlin for our April 1957 issue.

26 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 27 November 1957 February 1959 May 1952 The distant Four Peaks formed the backdrop for this Allen C. Reed photo of cars pulling This Cliff Segerblom photo Since 1941, Prescott’s Friendly Pines Camp has hosted young summer motorboats toward the reservoirs along the Apache Trail (State Route 88). “One of the appeared on our back cover in adventurers. It and other Arizona summer camps were featured in R. Alice most devoted and inspired groups to take advantage of Arizona’s waterways is the Desert February 1959. Titled Trolling — Drought’s Camping Is High Adventure in Arizona Highways’ May 1952 issue. Boat and Ski Club of Phoenix,” Reed wrote in our November 1957 issue. “A typical periodic Lake Mead, it shows the This photo by Bob Towers opened the story. Back then, campers practiced outing of this 72-family organization starts with an early Sunday morning take-off for their reservoir’s Wishing Well Cove, which packing burros, setting up tents and more. Today, though, they’re more desert rendezvous on Canyon Lake.” is on the Arizona side of Boulder likely to ride, swim, craft, and practice archery and fencing — along with Canyon, about 15 miles upstream learning the basics of camping. from Hoover Dam. The photo was made less than 25 years after Hoover Dam, which impounds the 247-square-mile reservoir, was completed. Lake Mead National Recreation Area, which also includes the smaller Lake Mohave, offers numerous boating, camping and hiking activities. Nearly 8 million people — more than double the 1959 total — visited the recreation area in 2017.

June 1956 Camerama. That might not be a word you’ve heard before, but back in the 1950s, it described a camera that photographer Luis Azarraga invented to capture panoramic NO. 1 HITS: 1955 views. “The extraordinary ‘Sincerely’ lateral range of the Camerama by the McGuire Sisters — it’s 160 degrees — is greater ‘Rock Around the Clock’ than the human field of by Bill Haley vision and almost twice the and His Comets sweep of other wide-angle- ‘The Yellow Rose of Texas’ lens cameras,” our story by Mitch Miller said. Azarraga made this ‘Love Is a Many- photograph of Globe with the Splendored Thing’ device, which he mounted by the Four Aces to a tripod and cranked to ‘Sixteen Tons’ 18 feet high. At the time the by Tennessee Ernie Ford photograph was made, Globe was a booming mining town, but its population today hovers around 18,000.

28 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 29 Tucson: Dude Ranch Capital of the World Excerpted from our February 1958 issue

ROUND TUCSON there’s a tale told The typical guest ranch in Southern Arizona is Every ranch has its dude wrangler. He conducts about the time, many years ago, a higgledy-piggledy of buildings scattered over an the horseback rides, keeps the dudes and the hors- when a stranger hiked into a nearby acre or so of desert. There’s a large structure con- es reasonably at peace with each other and serves cattle ranch and asked if he might taining a dining hall, kitchen and living room. There as the ranch handyman. Occasionally (although not take room and board there while he are smaller, individual cottages or sleeping rooms as often as the movies would suggest) he marries wrote a novel. The rancher allowed as how it would for the guests, set apart for privacy. There’s a corral, one of the guests and goes off to become prince Abe all right, and so the stranger stayed. swimming pool, shuffleboard court, perhaps a ten- consort of a Long Island mansion. His name was Harold Bell Wright. The novel nis court, maybe even a putting green or polo field. Well, that’s dude ranching in the Tucson was called The Mine with the Iron Door. And that How many other guests will you find at your country. If it sounds as though this is for the likes — according to the legend — was the start of the dude ranch? That depends, naturally, on the size of you, write to the Tucson Chamber of Commerce dude-ranch industry in and around Tucson. of the ranch (and how good the season is), but the or Sunshine Climate Club for a list of ranches. Pack Since then a lot of dudes have gone over the ranches in this area run from about 15 guests at the a couple of pairs of blue jeans and a bottle of saddle horns, for there are today no less than smallest to 60 at the largest. The latter, of course, suntan oil. Buy yourself a ticket to Tucson and ... 43 guest ranches in the Tucson area. Every year would be very nearly in the resort class. Have fun! people from everywhere distribute themselves among these 43 ranches and settle down to some of the rugged-but-not-too-gosh-darned-rugged living that such ranches afford. Then, a few weeks or few months later, they go home — perhaps a little tougher, certainly a little tanner, and with an odd tendency to drop their “g’s” and speak of “chuck” when they mean “dinner.” In case you didn’t know, not all dude ranches are alike. Some specialize in entertaining family groups, with plenty of facilities for the kids. Others prefer adults — married or single. Several combine cattle with guests. One caters exclusively to people who are reducing. Some of the guest ranches are rustic, with ado- be buildings, wooden sidewalks, benches in the din- ing room and chandeliers made out of old wagon August 1955/February 1954 wheels. Others look a little like a piece of the Statler These two photos — Esther Henderson’s (above), plucked out of Manhattan and transported to the from August 1955, and Hubert A. Lowman’s Arizona desert. You rough it in tiled swimming pools (right), from February 1954 — show the Central and on carpets as thick as a cowboy’s tongue on Arizona mining town of Jerome in a time of Saturday night, and you pay accordingly. transition. In the early ’50s, mining operations While we’re on that not-irrelevant subject, let ceased at the mountainside town, and its it be said that dude ranch rates range from about population dwindled to fewer than 100. Jerome $75 per week per person to $35 per day per person. then turned to tourism, which is what sustains it The price usually includes meals, horseback-riding, today. Visitors can learn about Jerome’s mining sight-seeing trips and other normal activities. Bear history at Jerome State Historic Park, whose in mind that a somewhat-better-than-average centerpiece is the Douglas Mansion — an adobe motel makes an in-season charge of $8 or $9 per structure built in 1916 by James S. Douglas, day or somewhere in the neighborhood of $60 per developer of the Little Daisy Mine. week (and that’s without meals). Thus it becomes apparent that a dude-ranch vacation isn’t neces- sarily an improvident indulgence.

30 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY WESTERN WAYS WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 31 November 1959 The Apache Trail (State Route 88), which at the time ran from east of Phoenix to the Globe area, was the focus of our November 1959 issue. This 1950 U.S. ECONOMICS Cletis B. Reaves photo, one of several that accompanied our story, shows Federal Spending: $42.56 billion a fishing camp below Theodore Roosevelt Dam, which its namesake Federal Debt: $256.9 billion dedicated in 1911. Theodore Roosevelt Lake, which is impounded by the dam, Consumer Price Index: 24.l is the oldest and largest of the reservoirs along the Apache Trail. SR 88 now Unemployment: 5.3 percent ends at the reservoir, and its former route farther east is now part of State Median Family Income: $3,216 Route 188. The author of the 1959 story was Joseph Stacey, who succeeded Raymond Carlson as editor of Arizona Highways 12 years later. First-Class Postage Stamp: 3 cents Bread (per pound): 14 cents Bacon (per pound): 64 cents Potatoes (per 10 pounds): 46 cents

November 1957 Water skiers traverse Canyon Lake, northeast of Phoenix, in Allen C. Reed’s photo from our November 1957 issue. Reed used a 4x5 Crown Graphic camera and Ektachrome film to make this photo at 11:30 a.m. on a March day. “Canyon Lake is long and narrow,” he noted.

WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 33 April 1957 “For April, in this wonderful year of nineteen fifty-seven, we present with pleasure and pride: PHOENIX, City in the Sun,” Editor Raymond Carlson proclaimed for this issue of the magazine. On the inside front cover was a Ray Manley photograph of the Arizona Canal in Phoenix. Based architecturally on the Hohokam people’s irrigation systems, the canal dates to the 1880s and now is managed by Salt River Project. In 1957, though, Carlson reminded readers of Phoenix’s farming history in his caption for this photo. “Miles of canals, carrying irrigation waters to the agricultural areas encircling Phoenix, are constant reminders of the fact that the economy of the city is based on farming,” he wrote. “The growth of Phoenix began when Roosevelt Dam was built to store waters of the Salt and the Tonto, thereby assuring a stable source of water for thirsty acres in the Salt River Valley. Water, desert lands and the flowering of Phoenix into one of the great American cities — this is truly a Cinderella story for America.” September 1956/May 1950 In September 1956 (above) and May 1950 (right), Arizona Highways presented two different views of the Northern Arizona city of Flagstaff. The 1956 shot, by J.G. Moore, was made aboard a Cessna 170 flying at approximately 9,000 feet. It was part of Skyways of Arizona, an Edward H. Peplow Jr. celebration of aerial views of the state. The 1950 photo, by Jerry McLain, was shot on Mars Hill, which overlooks the city and is the home of Lowell Observatory. Flagstaff has grown considerably since the 1950s and now boasts a population of more than 70,000.

“Phoenix has the sun in the morning and the moon at night. And it’s oh, so easy to love!” — ‘Good Housekeeping,’ circa 1957

34 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 35 October 1959 A Winter Day in Sabino Canyon, by Ray Manley, appeared in the October 1959 issue, along 1950s BREAKTHROUGHS with this caption: “This picture was taken 1950: Telephone answering part way up Sabino Canyon Recreation Area machine northeast of Tucson. Sabino Canyon offers 1951: Super glue; first the photographer good photographic subject commercial computer; power matter in most all seasons. Occasionally, it steering; video tape recorder has been known to have snow in it in the 1952: Mr. Potato Head is upper levels, covering the fall colored leaves patented in a freak snowstorm in late November. 1953: Color TV broadcasting A short drive to this beautiful canyon brings begins; Saran Wrap; “double Tucson residents to beautiful picnic and helix” of DNA is discovered by Francis Crick and James Watson recreation grounds.” Mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding and wildlife watching 1955: Optical fiber; Tylenol; remain popular activities for visitors to the microwave oven (costs $1,300) canyon, which is nestled at the base of the 1957: Velcro is patented; Santa Catalina Mountains. Eveready produces AA batteries 1958: Hula-Hoop

January 1957 A Sunday Crowd at Saguaro Lake was the title of this Harry Vroman photo, one of several that ran with Vroman’s story in January 1957. “Come Saturday,” Vroman wrote, “there will be a gathering at Saguaro Lake of the great boating fraternity; those fortunate ones with their own boats, others renting at reasonable rates a safe boat with outboard motor in which to explore and be enriched by such close contact with the good earth and its multitude of splendid attractions.” Created by Stewart Mountain Dam in 1930, the reservoir has a surface area of more than 1,200 acres when full.

“Tucson ... a gentler cowtown ... a sedate boomtown ... an anomaly of anomalous Arizona ... but with all its contradictory flavors, a town whose subtle charm is compounded of its insistent sunshine and pervading sense of space.” — ‘Holiday,’ circa 1958

36 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 37 June 1951 The boat dock at Willow Beach was one of the Lake Mohave sites photographed for our June 1951 story on the Colorado River reservoir. Cliff Segerblom made this and other photos that accompanied the story, and his wife, Gene, was the author. The same year the story was published, Davis Dam, which impounds Lake Mohave, was completed. The reservoir’s creation spurred the growth of the lakeside cities of Bullhead City, Arizona, and Laughlin, Nevada.

October 1958 Rolling Merrily Along on 70 was the subject of our October 1958 issue, published shortly after the route was realigned away from Coolidge Dam. Editor Raymond Carlson heralded U.S. Route 70 — the shortest of four federal highways that crossed Arizona at the time — as a “friendly, sunny road” and published nearly a dozen color photographs of the route, including this one, U.S. 70 in Graham County, by Josef Muench. Running west from North Carolina, the highway once terminated near the Pacific Ocean in California. By 1969, though, the route had been truncated at Globe. It now runs for 2,385 miles.

August 1956 Frequent Arizona Highways contributor Ray Manley’s Stone Avenue, Tucson appeared in the August 1956 issue of the magazine. “There is a time in the evening when the sun has set and its afterglow gives even the commonplace a new feeling of beauty,” the caption read. “Though Tucson’s man- made monuments are not comparable in size with those of larger cities, they are the landmarks that identify the city as the Old Pueblo.” Architect Roy Place designed the Pioneer Hotel, which was one of Tucson’s first high-rise buildings. Sadly, a fire gutted the building in 1970, killing 29 people. Today, offices occupy the old hotel.

38 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 39 Phoenix: What to Do, What to See in the Sun Excerpted from our April 1957 issue

HERE ARE ALL MANNER of pleas- At Encanto Park you’ll find 1,200 specimens ant ways to spend your time in of trees and shrubs marked with identifying Phoenix, quite apart from just labels. The city’s parks and recreation depart- lazying in the sun. It depends on ment started collecting them back in 1937. Then, what piques your fancy. in 1949, Joy Egbert, a retired Phoenician and Shows? Phoenix, of course, has gobs of mov- tree-lover, volunteered to label all of them. The Ties — both drive-in and sit-in. Also a fine winter more exotic specimens include South African “straw-hat” theater, the Sombrero, with plays sumac brush, Eustis limequat and Australian starring Hollywood and Broadway personalities. bottle tree. One of the favorite leisure pursuits Also a fine Little Theater. of Phoenix visitors and homefolk alike is to take Sports? There’s big league baseball during an Encanto Park “tree walk.” the spring training season, with three teams With its tremendous growth, Phoenix has converging in this area to work out the kinks: begun to come of age culturally, too. The city New York Giants at Phoenix, Chicago Cubs has a fine symphony orchestra, now ten years at Mesa and Baltimore Orioles at Scottsdale. old, and the fall-and-winter concert season There’s tennis, with lots of courts all over town. features some of the greatest names of music. There’s golf, with several good courses to play There’s also a separate and varied concert series on and a top-drawer national tournament to staged by Mrs. Archer Linde at Phoenix Union see in mid-winter. High School auditorium. And Arizona State Col- There’s also horse racing (at Turf Paradise lege at Tempe sponsors major musical events and Fair Grounds) and dog racing (at Greyhound through the fall and winter. Parks). There’s horseback riding on the desert As for art, there are private galleries in and fishing in the mountain reservoirs northeast Phoenix and Scottsdale, exhibits at the Phoenix of Phoenix. And there’s that exciting and indig- Art Center, frontier murals at the State Depart- enous divertissement of Western folk — rodeo. ment of Library and Archives in the capitol and Phoenix puts on the state’s biggest rodeo and a handsome collection of American art at Mat- the nation’s biggest horse-drawn parade every thews Library on the campus of Arizona State March. It likewise stages a unique junior rodeo College. (And, incidentally, the Arizona murals (for kids) in October. And many of the smaller at the new First National Bank in downtown communities around Phoenix offer rodeos Phoenix are well worth seeing.) intermittently through the season. Wickenburg, Lectures and book reviews? Frequently — all for example, has one approximately every two through the winter season. Keep an eye on the weeks at various of its dude ranches. newspapers. If it’s desert flora that interests you, Square-dancing? Almost every evening. there’s a wondrous display of it at the Desert Watch the papers here, too. And the square- Botanical Garden in Papago Park, east of Phoe- dance clubs (there are 23 of them) welcome nix. Here are hundreds of Arizona desert plants visitors. plus other species from arid regions all over the It all comes out at this: You can have a lot world. You also can see many different kinds of of fun in Phoenix, and you don’t need a lot of cactus on the grounds of the state capitol. money to do it. Phoenix is that kind of town.

This Ray Manley shot of the Phoenix Country Club ran on our inside back cover in April 1957.

40 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 41 May 1954 This Tad Nichols photograph, titled Evening in Glen Canyon, appeared in the May 1954 issue. “Every summer many people, in many types of boats, float down this quiet stretch of the Colorado River from Hite, Utah, to Lees Ferry, Arizona,” the caption read. “The clean white sandbars make ideal campsites, and driftwood is plentiful. This boat party is making camp near the junction of the San Juan and Colorado rivers.” As he often did, Nichols shot with a Rolleicord camera, a Schneider Xenar lens and Ektachrome film.

April 1952/April 1958 “This is the story of a desert laboratory in Arizona, where great dreams in agricultural, industrial and human progress are made to come true,” read a story about Goodyear Farms in our April 1952 issue. Allen C. Reed’s Litchfield Park: An Air Study in Color (left) and Mechanized Cattle Feeding (above) accompanied the article, which focused on the growth of cotton in Arizona, as well as the state’s booming cattle industry. Those are just two of our state’s famous “Five C’s”: cotton, cattle, citrus, climate and copper. An unofficial “C”: chiles. They were celebrated in April 1958 with Western Ways’ Chili Harvest in Sulphur Springs Valley (below). Today, crops make up 53 percent of Arizona’s agricultural production, while livestock is the other 47 percent.

1955 ENTERTAINMENT NEWS James Dean dies in a car accident at age 26. ‘Gunsmoke’ debuts on CBS and later goes on to be television’s longest- running Western.

WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 43 Phoenix: Those Busy Air Waves Excerpted from our April 1957 issue

F YOU’VE JUST MOVED TO PHOENIX or are planning KTAR took its microphones down into a copper mine and up to move, and if you have some money and can’t think in a dirigible. KOY interviewed four governors, all at one table, of a way to invest it, why don’t you open up a new but each sitting in a chair inside his own state (that was in radio or television station? the Four Corners country, of course). And KTAR launched the Everybody else is doing it — or so it must seem Grand Canyon Easter broadcasts 21 years ago, fed them into to some of the be-dazzled old-timers in the industry. “Until NBC and has kept them going right up to the present time. I1940,” said one of them, with an audible sigh, “we had only TV, too, has had its pioneers in Phoenix. KPHO, for October 1954 two radio stations in Phoenix. Then all heck broke loose.” example, was one of the first to telecast a show under Allen C. Reed documented Phoenix’s Sky Harbor He didn’t really say “heck,” of course, and you can water. It was in a swimming pool at a downtown hotel, and Airport, “Air Travel Center of the Southwest,” understand why he didn’t when you scan the list of stations a watertight case had to be made for the camera, and the through his words and photographs in the presently operating in and about Phoenix: camera man had to operate it with a periscope. (Presumably October 1954 issue of Arizona Highways. Television — KOOL, KPHO, KTVK, KVAR that was before snorkels, or else the budget didn’t allow for Nicknamed “The Farm” because of its then- Radio (AM) — KHEP, KIFN, KONI, KOOL, KOY, KPHO, KPOK, them.) remote location, Sky Harbor was built in KRIZ, KRUX, KTAR, KTYL (KIFN is almost exclusively Spanish) Along with such feats as these, the Phoenix broadcasting 1935 and boasted only one terminal until 1962. Radio (FM) — KELE, KTYL-FM industry also has produced some distinguished personalities. But it was popular among travelers because of That comes out at four TV and 13 radio stations, which John McGreevey was one of them. He was a writer for KTAR, its quirky cartoon billboards that proclaimed is considerably more than par for the course. Detroit, for and now he’s living in North Hollywood and is the author of things like “Welcome, Amigos, to Phoenix.” The instance, has only four TV stations. Tulsa has two. And many network TV dramatic shows. airport celebrated its 75th birthday in 2010. Oklahoma City has no more than seven radio stations. And then there was the case of the young fellow who Today, it has three terminals, the largest of Why so many around Phoenix? Nobody knows, except wrote continuity for KOY … which has 86 gates. that the answer must be related in some way to people — He was attending Arizona State College at Tempe and the quantities that already have moved to Phoenix and holding down the radio job part-time. Pretty soon he worked the quantities more that can be expected. In other words, if up a songs-and-patter act with a Mesa boy named Wendell the town isn’t yet big enough to support all those stations, Noble. They were on the air three mornings a week for five everybody anticipates that it soon will be. minutes, sponsored by a local drugstore. But when the The city’s pioneers of electronics communication were station manager went to the druggist and asked him to pay KTAR and KOY, both licensed in 1922. KTAR (then KFAD) was each of the boys 50 cents extra per broadcast, he shook his the 36th station licensed in the U.S. The two of them had head. Said he didn’t think they were worth it. things all their own way until 1940, when KPHO set up shop. Well, Wendell Noble is now in Hollywood and doing very And then, after that, the floodgates were down. well in radio and TV. As befitted pioneer broadcasters in a pioneer state, The other fellow? Phoenix’ early-day broadcasters blazed some unique trails. His name was Steve Allen.

Phoenix: The 1950s

1950 1951 1952 1953 1954 1955 1956 1957 1958 1959 Groundwater provides The Legislature Barry Goldwater Phoenix Central Library Maryvale becomes one The area of the city The city sets an annual Phoenix’s first shopping Arizona State The Phoenix Art 70 percent of the local adopts a host of anti- is elected to the is dedicated. of the nation’s first totals 29 square miles. record low with only mall, Park Central, University enrollment Museum opens, drawing water supply. communist bills. U.S. Senate. “master planned” 2.82 inches of rain. opens. totals 9,708. 50,000 visitors in its communities. first year.

44 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 45 July 1959 Navajo Rodeo, a story in our July 1959 issue, was a family affair: Joyce Rockwood Muench wrote it, and her husband, Josef Muench, and son, David Muench, provided the photos. “Late summer, when the rainy season has spent itself April 1957 and great white sails of clouds It’s hard to believe, but this balloon across the sea-blue sky, Ray Manley photo from is a fine time to be out on the our April 1957 issue shows Navajo Indian Reservation,” she Phoenix’s Arizona Biltmore. The wrote. Among shots of roping resort, one of Arizona’s oldest, and riding were several scene- often is credited to Frank setters, including this one. “At an Lloyd Wright, but it actually event of this kind, the spectators was designed by Albert Chase are as interesting as the event McArthur (although Wright was itself,” the caption read. Rodeo the consulting architect on the continues to play an important project). The golf course and the role in Navajo culture, and spacious homes lining it are still Kayenta, Window Rock and other there today, but much of the cities on the Navajo Nation host desert between the Biltmore events annually. and the mountain has now been developed. The mountain has changed, too: At the time of this photo, it was known as Squaw March 1957 Peak, but it’s been renamed Motorists enjoyed a view of Piestewa Peak to honor Lori Marble Canyon, the upstream Piestewa, a Hopi soldier from section of the Grand Canyon, in Tuba City who was killed in Iraq a Jack Moore photo published in in 2003. our March 1957 issue. The Charles Franklin Parker and Jeanne S. Humburg story it accompanied was 89: The Highway of April 1950 International Grandeur, and the “We use the expression Boulder authors celebrated the Arizona Dam,” Editor Raymond Carlson section of U.S. Route 89 — which, wrote in our April 1950 issue. “We at that time, ran from the Arizona anticipate the angry letters our Strip to the U.S.-Mexico border. use of the name ‘Boulder Dam’ Today, U.S. 89 enters Arizona near instead of ‘Hoover Dam’ will Page and ends in Flagstaff; the bring forth, but we can’t help road that crosses Marble Canyon it. Congress has named the is now U.S. Route 89A. And dam ‘Hoover Dam.’ The Arizona a newer Navajo Bridge, completed Legislature has never changed in 1995, now carries vehicle traffic. the name from ‘Boulder Dam.’ It The original bridge, finished in is ‘agin the law away out hyar’ to 1929 and pictured here, is still used change legal place names.” The by pedestrians. apparent controversy didn’t stop us from featuring the dam and Lake Mead, the enormous reservoir it created. In this William Belknap Jr. photo, sightseers traverse the lake by boat.

46 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 47 Tucson: A Civilized City Excerpted from our February 1958 issue

LLIOTT ARNOLD, the author of Blood Brother leaving its mark on the community and, in addition, is and other notable works, once wrote that a measure of the extent to which Tucson may be consid- Tucson is a city with a “personality.” This ered a truly civilized city. being the case (and who, having ever seen What the Festival set out to do — and has quite clearly Tucson, would deny it?), what are the ingre- succeeded in doing — is to weave together in a single fabric dients of its personality? the many artistic threads of Southwestern life. Each year EEveryone probably would answer that question dif- Tucson gives itself over to its Festival. There are exhibits ferently. But surely everyone would include one particular of paintings. There is fine dancing. There is music. There ingredient, i.e., Tucson’s affinity for the arts of civilization. are lectures. For two weeks this goes on, and the whole This cultural flowing is manifested on every hand in the community is a part of it, and when it’s over, Tucson and Old Pueblo. You see it in the numbers of art galleries and its people are a little richer for the fact that it happened. museums and in the variety of artists and writers holding Why this cultural vitality in Tucson? forth there. You see it also in the city’s durable symphony Well, there’s the state university, for one thing. Its mere orchestra, its in-season concerts (no less than three presence gives sanction and stimulus to the arts. The separately sponsored series each winter), the little theatre university teaches music and art and drama. Its faculty groups (two of them), the Saturday Morning Musical Club, people share their talents and enthusiasms with the the formidably ambitious Tucson Festival ... well, the list community. And thus the university has become a kind of could go on indefinitely. cultural fulcrum for Tucson. Consider, for a moment, those two last-named groups. There’s another factor — the very setting of Tucson. It They’re typical of the way Tucson goes about the business is a city of great beauty, surrounded by the greater beauty of fostering the arts. of mountains and desert. And so there have come to The Saturday Morning Musical Club dates all the Tucson many practitioners of the arts — painters, writers, way back to 1907. It was and still is predominantly musicians — who find in the beauty of their physical sur- a women’s organization. But its impact on the life of the roundings a balm and an aid to creative production. community goes far beyond what you might expect of the Thirdly, the fact of having a reputation for being an average women’s club. For, over a period of many years, “artistic” city helps to make Tucson all the more “artistic.” the club has brought some of the greatest personalities of People interested in the arts are drawn to Tucson every the concert stage to Tucson. And, besides, it built an audi- year for no other reason than that others were drawn torium in which to present them. The auditorium is known there before them. They know they will find a cultural as the Temple of Music and Art, a faintly mid-Victorian climate sympathetic to their kind. name which somehow seems to fit both Tucson and the There are other factors, probably. It would be pointless Saturday Morning Musical Club. to list them all. The important thing is that Tucson is The Tucson Festival is not nearly so venerable an hospitable to the arts, and that makes it a very nice town organization, having been founded in 1950. But it, too, is to visit and, in many ways, even nicer to live in.

“Tucson, which still retains a conquistador flavor and is called ‘The Old Pueblo’ by natives, now bills itself as the ‘future electronics center of America.’ ” — ‘Newsweek,’ circa 1958

Ray Manley’s photo of the University of Arizona campus appeared in the February 1958 issue of Arizona Highways.

48 JANUARY 2019 WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 49 May 1954 Tad Nichols photographed a sunbather along the Little Colorado River for our May 1954 issue. “This blue lagoon is formed where the Little Colorado meets the Big Colorado,” the caption read. “Springs of clear water, ten miles above the mouth of ACADEMY AWARD the Little Colorado Canyon, flow the year around, and minerals dissolved in the water WINNERS: 1950 give it the beautiful color.” Several of Nichols’ photos accompanied Folk Songs of the Colorado — a story by Katie Lee, who frequently explored the Grand Canyon and Glen Best Actor: José Ferrer – Canyon with the photographer. ‘Cyrano de Bergerac’ Best Actress: Judy Holliday – ‘Born Yesterday’ Best Motion Picture: ‘All About Eve’

December 1952 There are many “lonely roads” in Arizona, and this one — the road to Ruby — was photographed by Esther Henderson for our December 1952 issue. Every word in the magazine that month belonged to Editor Raymond Carlson, including these from the story: “The less hurried find pleasure and adventure following the solitary roads through the lonesome and enchanting land.” Ruby, a Southern Arizona mining town, began its evolution into a ghost town in 1940. Today, it’s open to visitors four days a week. Arizona Highways, of course, is still finding adventure following the solitary roads through this lonesome and enchanting land.

WWW.ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 51 scenic DRIVE

PUERTO BLANCO DRIVE Of all the plants in the Sonoran Desert, the organ pipe cactus is among the most photogenic. To see one, you’ll want to set out on this scenic drive in Southern Arizona. BY NOAH AUSTIN

3,500 years ago, as the planet thawed after the last ice age. To the northwest, the flat-topped Cipriano Hills form the back- drop for the cactuses’ silent symphony, which you can stop to enjoy at multiple picnic areas (including the now-shuttered Golden Bell Mine, at Mile 17). At Mile 22, you’ll come to a “T” intersection. Turn left to stay on Puerto Blanco Drive, which again becomes a smooth two- way road. Huge saguaros guard the roadside as you head south 2 miles but the tree was removed in 2016 to pro- way. On your way to wherever you’re to another intersection. You’ll eventually tect the dam in which it was growing. headed next, think about this: Does an go left, but take the half-mile side trip to The pond, though, is still a nice place to organ pipe cactus play only sharp notes? Quitobaquito Springs by turning right. spot wildlife or make a few photos. This isolated pond is home to three spe- From Quitobaquito, head back toward SCENIC cies that occur naturally nowhere else in SR 85 on the southern portion of Puerto DRIVES of Arizona’s ADDITIONAL READING: Best Back the U.S.: the Quitobaquito spring snail, Blanco Drive, which mostly parallels 40 Roads For more adventure, pick up a copy of our book Arizona the Sonoyta mud turtle and the desert the U.S.-Mexico border fence. It’s not as Highways Scenic Drives, which caper (also known, charmingly, as the impressive as the northern part of the features 40 of the state’s most beautiful back roads. To order, vomitbush). It once was home to a large, drive, but it’s also not as rugged, which visit www.shoparizonahighways Edited by Robert Stieve frequently photographed cottonwood, means you’ll soon be back on the high- and Kelly Vaughn Kramer .com/books.

TOUR GUIDE Note: Mileages are approximate.

LENGTH: 37 miles one way (from State Route 85) DIRECTIONS: From Ajo, go south on State Route 85 for 33 miles to Puerto Blanco Drive (follow signs for the ou’ve probably seen organ pipe two-way road with alternating paved and that will knock the wind out of you, or Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument visitors center). Turn right onto Puerto Blanco Drive and continue 37 miles cactuses (Stenocereus thurberi) in gravel sections. Within a mile, you’ll get your tire, if you don’t). But in between to where the road intersects SR 85 farther south. the pages of this magazine, and your first good look at organ pipes, but the rough sections are relatively smooth Y VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: A high-clearance vehicle is with good reason: They’re among the here, they’re outnumbered by saguaros stretches that allow you to fully enjoy the required, but four-wheel-drive is not necessary. Sonoran Desert’s most photogenic flora. and ocotillos. Be patient, because that scenery. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS: National Park Service entrance fees apply (a vehicle pass is $25 and is good for But if you want to see them in person, won’t always be the case. To the north The organ pipes take center stage seven days). Additionally, while the monument is safe to you’ll have to head to Organ Pipe Cactus is Pinkley Peak, which you’ll pass on the around Mile 11, surrounding an appro- visit, crossings and other illegal activities do occur along National Monument, along Arizona’s left around Mile 5. This rhyolite peak, priately cathedral-like formation on the the U.S.-Mexico border. Stay on maintained park roads, do not pick up hitchhikers, and report any suspicious behav- border with Mexico. It protects most of the highest point in the Puerto Blanco left. Soon, you’ll be seeing dozens of ior or distressed people you encounter to the monument’s the species’ U.S. population, and Puerto Mountains, is named for Frank Pinkley, a them on the hillsides and near the road. staff or the Border Patrol. Blanco Drive, a rugged 37-mile trek National Park Service superintendent who These warmth-loving plants are relative WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous, so be aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of through the monument’s heart, offers was key to the monument’s formation. newcomers to Arizona: They arrived just water. Don’t travel alone, and let someone know where plenty of organ pipes, along with a biodi- Next, the route becomes a one-way you are going and when you plan to return. verse oasis and panoramic desert views. dirt road. It also turns much more rut- ABOVE: Puerto Blanco Drive rolls through a verdant INFORMATION: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, From the monument’s visitors center, ted as it dips and winds through the desert landscape at Organ Pipe Cactus National 520-387-6849 or www.nps.gov/orpi Monument. Suzanne Mathia Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial 511 off State Route 85, head northwest on desert landscape. You’ll want to take it OPPOSITE PAGE: A saguaro skeleton frames one of to get infor­ma­tion on road closures, construc­tion, delays, Puerto Blanco Drive, which initially is a slow over the ruts (there’s one at Mile 8.3 the monument’s namesakes. Jack Dykinga weather and more.

52 JANUARY 2019 MAP BY KEVIN KIBSEY www.arizonahighways.com 53 HIKE of the month

Others might call it a vortex. BOYNTON CANYON TRAIL Easy and easy to get to, this popular If you’re not familiar, a vor- tex is defined “as a place where hike near Sedona is a great introduction to Red Rock Country. You won’t the Earth is exceptionally alive and healthy, its natural beauty BY ROBERT STIEVE be alone, but so what? reflected in the elements of land, light, air and water.” et’s say you have a friend who lives yon. It’s pretty easy. And pretty nice. the five-star resort that borders the wil- Additionally, “it’s a place with in the rural Midwest. Let’s call The trail begins in the vicinity of so derness in the early part of the hike. increased energy that magni- L him Tommy Fisher. And let’s say many other great trails in Sedona — Bear That’s the most common complaint fies or amplifies whatever you that Tommy is convinced that there’s no Mountain, Brins Mesa, Long Canyon. about the Boynton Canyon Trail. That the bring into it.” other place on the planet that’s as beauti- From the trailhead, the route follows a resort is right there, with its pricey guest Boynton Canyon is one of ful as the woodland that surrounds his red-dirt path that reflects the color of rooms and Ayurvedic spa treatments. several alleged vortex sites in hometown. Despite your insistence that the surrounding Coconino sandstone. The contrast is impossible to overlook, Red Rock Country. Whether Arizona is pretty nice, too, he just rolls The track is hard-packed, like melted but the resort has been a good neighbor that’s New Age nonsense, his eyes. Year after year. Then, one day, crayons. Two minutes in, you’ll come to for many, many years, and it’s not going ancient wisdom or none of the against all expectation, he ventures West an intersection with Deadman’s Pass and anywhere. You might as well shake it off above, it’s probably not the to see for himself. You want to convince the Mescal Trail. Veer left. A few minutes and move on. What’s ahead is worth the kind of thing you’d want to him that you’re right — that Arizona is later, there’s a sign that marks the bound- temporary distraction. as the trail passes the spa and winds cliffs through the trees. It’s a reminder mention to Tommy Fisher. Let the rocks at least as scenic as where he's from. So ary of the Red Rock-Secret Mountain Just beyond the wilderness sign is through a grove of oaks, piñons, junipers that this hike isn’t just another hike. and the trees convince him of the state’s you think to yourself, Hmmm ... what trail Wilderness. Usually, wilderness areas another intersection. Again, veer left and manzanitas. You might hear Native The homestretch gets a little steeper beauty. If you start talking mysticism and should I take him to? Well, if Tommy Fisher are more remote and harder to get to. flute music as you move along, but that and rockier, and touches the feet of some spirituality, there’s a good chance he’ll is an avid hiker, the options are numer- Mount Trumbull is a good example. This eventually fades as you get beyond the impressive pillars and rock walls. The roll his eyes and never come back. ous. But let’s say that he can’t hike too far one, though, with its 48,314 acres, is just BELOW: As seen from above, Boynton Canyon is one resort and deeper into the canyon, where scattered Douglas firs are aged exclama- of the most scenic sites in Sedona. Mark Frank or too hard. If that’s the case, you might one iced venti Americano from the con- OPPOSITE PAGE: Morning fog clears from the alligator junipers show their age. The trail tion points of olive green. Then, after want to take Tommy into Boynton Can- gestion of the Sedona strip. Even closer is canyon’s sandstone buttes. Larry Lindahl at this point heads northwest and paral- about an hour of overall hiking, the trail lels a wash. About 10 minutes later, it dead-ends at another rock wall, one that ADDITIONAL READING: shifts course to the west-southwest. With helps hold up Bear Mountain. The eleva- For more hikes, pick up a copy that turn, the forest gets thicker and wel- tion here is 5,220 feet, which is the high of Arizona Highways Hiking Guide, which features 52 of the comes a few ponderosa pines to the mix. point of the hike. The views, however, state’s best trails — one for each The woods look familiar, like something aren’t long panoramas. Instead, they’re weekend of the year, sorted by seasons. To order a copy, visit you’d see near Prescott or Payson. That compressed. That’s because the trail ends www.shoparizonahighways is, until you get a glimpse of the 800-foot in what feels like an open-air cathedral. .com/books.

TRAIL GUIDE LENGTH: 6.16 miles round-trip DIFFICULTY: Easy ELEVATION: 4,524 to 5,220 feet TRAILHEAD GPS: N 34˚54.456', W 111˚50.928' DIRECTIONS: From the roundabout intersection of state routes 179 and 89A in Sedona, go southwest on SR 89A for 3.1 miles to Dry Creek Road. Turn right onto Dry Creek Road and continue 2.7 miles to Boynton Pass Road. Turn left onto Boynton Pass Road and continue 1.5 miles to Boynton Canyon Road. Turn right onto Boynton Canyon Road and continue 0.1 miles to the trailhead on the right. SPECIAL CONSIDERATION: A $5 day pass is required. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None DOGS ALLOWED: Yes HORSES ALLOWED: Yes USGS MAP: Wilson Mountain INFORMATION: Red Rock Ranger District, 928-203-2900 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino LEAVE-NO-TRACE PRINCIPLES: • Plan ahead and be out all of your trash. prepared. • Leave what you find. • Travel and camp on • Respect wildlife. durable surfaces. • Minimize campfire impact. • Dispose of waste • Be considerate of properly and pack others.

54 JANUARY 2019 MAP BY KEVIN KIBSEY www.arizonahighways.com 55 WHERE IS THIS?

A Game of Bridge This bridge has had a more suc- cessful run than the nearby dam (also pictured), named for an area rancher who had it built nearly a century ago. The bridge, the dam and the surrounding wetland now make up an out-of- the-way destination for fishing and wildlife watching.

Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly identify the location pictured above and email your answer to editor@arizona November 2018 highways.com — type “Where Is This?” in the subject Answer & Winner line. Entries can also be sent to 2039 W. Lewis October 2018 Ez-Kim-In-Zin Pic- Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009 (write “Where Is This?” on the envelope). Please include your name, address Answer & Winner nic Area, Saguaro and phone number. One winner will be chosen in Mission San Xavier National Park. Con- a random drawing of qualified entries. Entries must del Bac. Congratula- gratulations to our be postmarked by January 15, 2019. Only the winner tions to our winner, winner, Faith Ann will be notified. The correct answer will be posted in Marcia Bryan of Ra- Weidner of Sims- our March issue and online at www.arizona leigh, North Carolina. bury, Connecticut. highways.com beginning February 15.

56 JANUARY 2019 PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP JIM MARSHALL ABOVE, LEFT JACK DYKINGA ABOVE, RIGHT JESSICA MORGAN

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