0:E3:.A:MEERS-, QUEBEC GUIDE ...:.·~ Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm. GLOVER, FRY & Oo., IMPORTERS OF LATEST NOVELTIES REOEIVED WEEKLY FROM EUROPE. DRESS AND MANTLE DEPARTMENTS UNDER FIRST CLASS MANAGEMENT. Superior Fit, Style and Finish a 8/)eciality, ~ SPECIAL ORDERS Executed in one or two days' notice. Latest Novelties in French ·& English Millinery -: A LARGE VARIETY OF :- STRAW. CHIP AND FELT HATS. NEWEST SHAPES. (~J&m,:L:mHmH'S'. :Q\E.e>rBJtHG MADE TO ORDER WITHIN 12 HOURS' NOTICE. Style, Fit and Workmanship Guaranteed. All GOODS MARKE:D in PLAIN FIGURES. ONLY ONE PRICE. 2,t & 26, FABRIQIJE ST,, lJPPER TOWN, ~UEBEC. (Copyrighted.) -------:.-----:~~: ::::··-··. ----- -- -- ----- ·--. -. -. -. ~ -_:::: -. :: : : ... - . -- ·.: · - -_ ~--: ~_: :::::-:::::::-:::::: . -------- -------------------------------------------- .• .• l. --! THE !-- .• .• .,,·················--:~ .... -- .......------------=----------., ----······ ··········-•••·•---···· .................... ···············•I ::?< x ~ ~ >< x x x ~ x x ~ Y, x ~ ~ x x x x ~ x x :;.-: j' .I:-············•••··••••••••••••••••••••••••••··~··•••·•••••·••••••---········. •• ··•·······--• .I •~. • •1 ~liGUIDE TO QUEBEC \I i: : I,. •••••••• •••• •••••••••••••••• _.·•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••--···· •. _.... I :: x ~ >< x x ~ x ~ x x ~ x ~ ~ x x x :..-: x x ~ ~ ~--~ t ,.-------------- ----- -- ---------------------- -- -------------------------------------- - --,, I: ' : .• ~~~ • ' BY E. T. D. CHAMBERS. "The best local guide-book of Quebec is that by E. T. D. Chambers." -Baedeker's Handbook to the Dominion of Canada, page 38. Pl: BLISHED BY QUEBEC MORNING CHRONICLE, Entered according to Act of Parliament, in 1895, by E. T. D. 0HA~TBER3, in the office of the Jl.linister of Agri­ culture, Otta ,va. ---.,C. P. R. ------ . of the Str O Map f Qu}ebec. JL'---~~' ff KE-;{City H•)\)onvent. ·--~------ -J_o_sE'P~l! :::s-_TR:E:E-T-----------....,_, eets J-I - 1~ B - A Du e Fronten HotelB·got's Doid · Palace.en\. ~ · lr-1 i.,.e~ rin Terrace.ac. ~ Ursulm. u - --------. Chateau 's Garden. N w' olfo Monurr;,ment. ---_,,,,==~ iicif.iri@E'-...,. ' · p St. Foy•. John an I ------;,""""'= cD GovEng \ish House. Oath, Loms, St. , ~ ~ Q} t' ns. ~ r, E Courternor D'Armes. d ·al. D'Or. OR St. KentMon Gate . d -~'"".·onJ Jt0.i[ff.fKleJ6 <1.'(ff:&'!iWo Place &Palace. Ch,en S c·ty Wall & For tifica w ,-, . -Ji$!?' ,;<'ffe"'., ., ! Post O~c!,s 2 ,"'.,.,,::., H tCa,dmaBasi~ica;y Chapel. T ' ~ ~'31 ,i~~ . J Sem,u~iv,rsity. """"""'~ _ Laval . """"""'""' / "il'-fl{fE:t?}/, iJ.'6f:tn )WJ;ii,-flk&°l'el6 ' I c,.-gt:&1 l --------=-- p I ----- tower """""' ,...*' """ ~,_-.,-- - - Martello"_ t BllgS 1·a1nen par t * ;\ ,\ ,\ dS Q,. Groun i\.th\CtlC Golf Links -:o:- Becairne he represents 11'hat is best, and co11seq11enfly niost worthy of preseri•ntion in Co11udian liferuf111·e, and hecause of the i.nfe1·est he has tokc11 in thep1·epn1·atiunand publication of this 1co1·J.:, and the assi.s/1111.ce he has cheer­ fiilly re1ule1·ed 111e in connection fhercll'ifh, I DEDICATE THIS BOOK to my friend rw,l colleayne, GEORGE STEWART, EsQ., D. LITT., LL.D., D.C.L., F.R.S.C., F.H.U.S., &c. --·. * * * * * ••-> ei@~~-~~@~ ~ UEBEC(;'.. / / -.:::.~.-.---:::: .-.-.-. ~-:-.-.-. -.::.-.::-::.. -.-.:-: ... ....... --. -~"" IQ ', " She glea1ns aho,~e her granite throne; Her gray walls gird her ample zont>: She queens the North, supren1e, alone.'' a O sings the poet of the 8ie1Tas. And in introducing his D inin1itable picture of Quebec, he sounds for us the follow­ ing melodious passage : " One enters upon the sto1·y and dese1·iption of this won­ derful city with great hesitation and feeling of unfitness. For Dickens, Le:\Ioine, Bancroft, Howells, and indeed a hunqred of others have said great things of t1H:•se battlen1ents, t'l'lllf'ntt·d. together hy the best blood of centuries. Quel)('e is the sto1·e­ house of A1ne1·ican history, and the 1nost glorious of cities,­ beautiful, too, as a picture." And what Joaquin Miller found wonderful and glorious .and beautiful in Quebec is just what tourists of every class .and every land find equally so. She stands at the very thres­ hold of this strong and impatient New World, in this age of 6 CHAMBERS' QUEBEC GUIDE, - progressive acti,·ity and enterprise, like a little patch of 1ne- direval Europe, transplanted, it is true, upon a distant shore, hut shutting out by her nnn·al surroundings the influences that the "·hole of the surrounding continent has failed to exer­ cise upon her. Har,l by 1IH· nineteenth century Niagara of relentless worry and hustle, yet apparently beyond the reach of that :resistless torrent of eonunercial eon1petition and tur1noil of contention for financial sn1n·e1nac)-, she continues upon the caln1 a 11,l ,.,-,·n t,·nor of her peaceful \\-ay, un1nindful of th<:> disquiet and unrest prevailing \Yithout he1· \\'alls. Time \\'orks few changes in Quebec. True to the> t1·1Hlitions of Ji.,1· pions found,·1·s, sb<' 1·,·111ains to this ,la)· the <·ity of Cha1nplain and Laval. The battlen1ents behind \Yhich she re1nains seeludecl were <'l'eet.,·rl h>· the religious ferY<>r. n1issionary zeal and en­ during f<>1titn<l<· of "the pioneers of F1·anee in the Ne\\· ,,Torld." strengthened I,>· thr· language, the eusto111s and th,· religion of the "Old-,V01·ld F1·an<'e. '\\'hence they sp1·nng. Cen1ented fur­ ther, as the A11H•riean poet so lwautifully expresses it. ·• by the best blood of centuries," these hat1l('l11t•nt:,; haYe ,-;ucef's,-;­ fully defied alike tl1t• raYages of ruthh•ss ti1ne and relentless foe. Her gates, thro,vn wide and hospitahl>- open to peaceful visitors, Im"" been defiantly closPd in the faee of inYarling foes. and even under the 111ost ad,-p1·se circun1stanees capitulation was only agreed to on condition that the peculiar fortifications of her people, e1·er·tPrl h>· the de,·otion of their ead)· leaders, should be perpetually 1naintained. It \Yas thi" 111aintPnanee of their ancient ra111parts that secured tn England the allegiance of her French subjects in the Ne,v ,,·orld, ,vhen her Engli,-h­ i-;peaking colonists broke into open re,·olt. It s,·e1n·e!l to Britain the fortress of Qne l >< ·,·. and , ·a us,·d the 1·epu Is,, of t hl' hr:n-e Montgo1nery. It stands to-day an apparently insur111ountahh• barrier to the annexation of Canada to the l~11ited States, and elicited fron1 a pro1ninent French ( 'a11arlia11 statesman the C'H.-\J\'IBERS' QUEBEC GUIDE. 7 assurance that the last gun in defencP of British sovereignty in Canada ,vould be fh·ed by a French Ca11adian. No Chinese ,va II "·as ever n1ore jealously guarded , n· 1nore re1narkable in its effects upon the tl'rritory ,vhir:h it endosed, than these peculia1· old battlt>1nents of a eo1 npara t i,·ely modern city. •· Progress," says Joaquin :\Liller, "has gone liy tht> other "·ay. No greasy 1·ailroa,l has yet co111l' sl'l'<'('C'hing and scr,·a1ning up the heights that 'l\'olfe ,.Jiinbed. Sh,· sits abov" th,· tid,· of l'OlllnlPJT<'." The nun I h .. 1· and influence of her pl'i,·st s and churchPs, the ,vt>alth and di1nensio11s of her conventual estab­ lish1nents, thl' piety and virtn,· of ht>r pt>ople, the variety and PXtent of h,·1· ed11('ational institution.~. tl11· un,·x,·p]led l,t>auty of her natural suri·oundings, the abs,·nce of ,·0111111,•rcial tnr1noil and con1petition, and t h,· sto1·y of her glorious past, arP alike the obj,·cts of her pride. " Histo1·:v, too, is ,·very\\·ht·1·,· around. She al'ises fro1n the Ran1parts replete ,vith daring deeds, and fron1 the Plains equall)· c,·lehrat,·d for feats of anns, and again she exclailns: · Her,· I a111 '." ~O\,V ~n-icricctt"le §cc 9}1tCbCC. S a rule, A1neriean tourists do not see Quebec at all, not even those that visit thP cit)· for th" express purpose of A doing so. In a quaint little volunH' pl'i11t,·d in 1831, by Tho1nas C'arv & Co., and entitled "Quebec and its Environs,'' the author, says: " It is to he observed that our An1erican friends unfortu­ natPly visit Quelw<' as tht' last lion in their tour. and gen,·rally disembark from the stean1l,oat fron1 :i\Iont1·eal, ren1ain ~-! hours, and then return \\'ithout speing anything except a ,·n1·­ sory vie,v of the eity. whereas Quebec and the environ~ a hound in the most ron1antic and charn1ing vie,vs, certainlr not equalled in the Canadas, and to all adn1irers of the beauties of nature affording a rich treat." ,~nd what ,vas true in 1881 is equally so in 1896. 8 CHAMBERS' QUEBEC GUIDE. Th,,1·,· is sc,uT..!y a foot here ,vhich is not historic ground, which is not consecrated by well-estahlished fact or tradition, to the 1nen1ory of deeds of heroisn1, of instancP., of undying piety an,l faith. The daring explorers of half a continent, European heroPs of 1nartial ;;trifP and strateg~· and their dusky chieftain allies. noble n1atrons and self-sacrificing missionaries, ,vhose doings live for ever in the burning pag,,s of Parkman, L?,·er, Charlevoix and Ca-;gr,tin, have left behind them here n1onun1ents of their zeal for the cause of religion and father­ land, or iJnn1ortalized the ground which once the~· trod, the soil for· "·hich they fiercely contended, the spot ,vhere first they planted the sy1nbol of their religion. or the dust ,vhich they reddened ,vith their blood. The old \\·,tlls of the cit~· are n1antled ,vit h historical i ,·y. And the tourbt, ,vho ,vo11ld think nothing of spending \\'P<'ks in lPss healthful localities and less hallo,ved associations and surroundings, will often he satisfic·,l that hP has done Quebec \\'hen he has cast a hurried glance at the Plains of Abraha1n and the )Ion11111Pnt to ,,~olfe, and drh·en rapidly ,n·,,r stl·Pets rendered historic hy the blood of herops and u1artyrs, the red n1an's daring rlt·e,ls and the carefully 1n·ese1Terl t1·arlitions of the historian and the novelist.