Small-ScreenThe SensationsInside: Pg. 15 TARGET SEES DOUBLE/3 MORE CHINA QUOTAS/16 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 19, 2005• $2.00 List Sportswear Let’s Get Physical NEW YORK — Work it out. Designers are upping the style quotient this fall with activewear looks that cross function with lots of fashion. Stella McCartney’s first collection for Adidas was a knockout at retail, and here, from her second, Modal tanks with polyester pants and a cotton and polyester top with nylon and elastic leggings, both with Adidas Stella McCartney shoes. For more designer activewear looks, see pages 6 and 7. The Future of Fendi: T New Contract for Karl, Brand Eyes $1B in Sales By Miles Socha UMP; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBER UMP; STYLED BY Y/J ROME — Karl Lagerfeld eased into his gleaming white desk at Fendi’s new headquarters here Wednesday, picked up a pencil and, with a quick flourish, finished off what must be his zillionth ANK ARENDS; MAKEUP BY LUCK ANK ARENDS; MAKEUP BY sketch for the Roman house. “It’s a stunning building, no?” Lagerfeld quipped. Only minutes earlier, the designer sat at a press conference next to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chairman Bernard Arnault, who confirmed a WWD report that Lagerfeld had signed SA MOLSON/SUPREME; HAIR BY KENSHIN ASANO/FR SA MOLSON/SUPREME; HAIR BY another “long-term” contract with Fendi, See Lagerfeld, Page14 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODELS: COLLEEN BAXTER AND MELIS ROBERT PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ A slew of designers are adding their names and talent to sport lines, adding 6 fashion to function from the slopes to the courts. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Karl Lagerfeld has signed another long-term contract with Fendi, continuing SPRING FLING 1 an association that has endured for half of the house’s 80-year history. Women toss out their old clothes to make room in their closets for new ones Target has the potential to double its store count in the U.S. in 10 years, 3 chairman and ceo Robert Ulrich said at its annual shareholders meeting. When the weather turns warm, Jennifer but not as many brights as last year. “There's going to EYE: A chat with Bryce Dallas Howard, who stars in Lars von Trier’s knows there is one task she just can’t put off any be peach, bottle greens—more toned-down, feminine 4 “Manderlay,” at the Cannes Film Festival…Visiting gallery owner Vito Schnabel. longer: sifting through all the clothing that’s colors, mixing in with neutrals,” DeFranco relates. accumulated in her closet. “We’ll see brights here and there as accents, but not BEAT: An unlikely venture between Disney’s consumer products division and two edgy streetwear brands aims to yield some magic for all partners. “It’s time to start cleaning out the clutter,” says the too much apple green or bright red as the main color.” 12 37-year-old Chicago executive, who says she J. Jill’s Hopkins agrees, and calls color “the DENIM: I.C. Isaacs, the U.S. licensee of Marithé & François Girbaud, saw performs this sartorial ritual like number-one motivator” for 13 earnings skyrocket 189.4 percent, to $2.5 million in the first quarter. clockwork every spring. “I shoppers. “Color is an inexpensive The Bush Administration took another swing at China, saying it would half-dread it, but it’s something I way to enhance your wardrobe,” 16 impose fresh quotas on $690.4 million worth of Chinese goods. always do, because otherwise I she relates. And it’s also become a Women’s retail apparel prices slid 1.1 percent in April — compared with just wouldn’t know what’s in major area of change at J. Jill, as 16 March and a year ago — the Labor Department reported Wednesday. there,” she relates. “And living in the firm’s palette has transitioned Classified Advertisements ..................................................................18-19 an apartment, every bit of storage from purely earth tones to one space is precious. So I go through that’s infused with what Bryson To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is and really figure out what works, terms “happy, optimistic colors.” [email protected], using the individual’s name. and what doesn’t. Sometimes I This season, the firm’s line features WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. even come across a few things I shades like zinnia, citrine, Caribbean VOLUME 189, NO. 106. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one forgot I had.” blue and blossom pink. additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional And she’s not alone. These Another easy wardrobe update issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., days, spring cleaning means more for spring and summer, notes Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill than just heavy-duty dusting and “The end benefit of cleaning out Thompson at Talbots, is the Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, polishing; it’s about giving your your closet is not a clean closet— casual, shrunken jacket. “You can Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- it’s making space for new clothes.” President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at closet—and your wardrobe—an wear it with anything,” she says. additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration — Candace Corlett, “It’s casual, but you can also bring No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, overhaul. According to Cotton ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ WSL Strategic Retail it up several notches.” SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR data, 35% of women clean out their closets annually, Shoppers at H&M can liven up their wardrobes DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new and 27% do it twice a year. with some of the retailer’s many handcrafted looks subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production But that doesn't mean they're likely to toss and finishes. “Spring is all about the romantic look, correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild everything and start fresh; even when they haven't with folkore and 1970s influences,” says H&M magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully worn something in a year, most women (65%) still spokesperson Jennifer Uglialoro. “It’s BoHo chic, screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive hang onto it. with lots of ethnic touches and embellishments.” these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Those figures don’t surprise Bryson Hopkins, vice Among H&M’s top sellers for spring and summer MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND president of merchandising for J. Jill. “Women lead are folklore-inspired blouses and tunics; in addition, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED busy lives, and they don’t have either the time or the trench coats and full skirts are also strong. “We’ve TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE disposable income to turn over their entire closet,” gotten away from the miniskirt, and now it’s all about ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. she says. volume,” notes Uglialoro. If I haven’t worn something in over a year, I: But while they may not Pieces with beaded eyelet, start completely new each Hang onto it 65% embroidery, and other overtly season, women do want to Get rid of it 34% feminine touches are also best In Brief refresh what they have—and sellers right now at J. Jill. rejuvenate their wardrobe with some fashion touches “More is more,” says Bryson. “This season, every- ● POOR SPORT: Costs related to the purchase of Galyan’s of the new season.