Greater Antilles Jamaica, Cuba, Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico (and Cayman Islands) Todies and Tyrants A Greentours Tour Report th th 29 November to 20 December 2012 Led by Paul Cardy Trip report written by Paul Cardy Introduction This ambitious tour of all the main Greater Antillean islands gave us the chance to see a wealth of single island and regional endemic birds, butterflies and reptiles. Some 110 endemic birds were recorded, including all five of the world’s todys, endemic to the region. Our trip took us through five remarkably contrasting countries and cultures. Beautiful scenery, from the misty Blue Mountains of Jamaica, to the swamps of Cuba’s Zapata peninsula, Dominican Republic’s forested mountains, and the Caribbean National Forest in Puerto Rico characterised the journey. A remarkably varied tour, illustrated by the Cuban example of watching Blue-headed Quail-Doves on forest trails in Zapata, and also experiencing the vibrancy of fascinating Old Havana. A feature was the incredible views we had of many rare endemic birds, such as Crested Quail-Dove and Jamaican Blackbird on Jamaica; Bee Hummingbird, Fernadina’s Flicker, and Zapata Wren on Cuba; Hispaniolan Trogon and Green-tailed Ground Tanager in Dominican Republic; and Elfin Woods Warbler on Puerto Rico. There were some very special butterflies too such as Prickly Ash Swallowtail, Haitian Mimic, three species of Anetia, Haitian Admiral, Cuban Emperor, Cuban Lucinia, Royal Blue, six species of Calisto, and Cuban Chequered Skipper. Very pleasing was the discovery of an area in Hispaniola not visited on the recce, which proved especially good for butterflies. An added attraction is some superb snorkeling opportunities, and the bioluminescent bays in Puerto Rico, lit by phosphorescent dinoflagellates. Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 1 JAMAICA Day 1 Thursday 29th November Arrival in Jamaica We met at Heathrow, for the flight to Miami. There immigration and security procedures were really not too bad at all and we had a quick meal as we would be arriving at the hotel long after the restaurant was closed. The flight to Kingston was after dark and we had good views of the lights of Cuba en route. It was a short flight and arrival procedures were very easy, Kingston airport was a pleasure, and the staff were welcoming and friendly. Our driver was there to meet us as arranged and we drove around the outskirts of Kingston and up along the windy roads of the Blue Mountains. At Strawberry Hill the gate staff let us in and we very gladly settled into the good rooms, the balconies affording fine views down to the sprawling lights of Kingston. The two note calls of Eleutherodactylus johnstonei were a constant soundtrack. Day 2 Friday 30th November Blue Mountains Despite our late arrival we were keen to be up and exploring the lovely gardens of Strawberry Hill, the calls of Orangequits, White-chinned Thrushes, and Red-billed Streamertails stirring us from our sleep. The views down to the expanse of Kingston were still stunning. Drinking my tea on the balcony I watched the aforementioned species, as well as Black-throated Blue and Prairie Warblers, and the endemic Jamaican Oriole. The vegetation was much disturbed but the garden flowers and introduced species still supported much wildlife. We met at the beautiful small restaurant at about 8.30, and as well as a continental breakfast we ordered from the small but interesting selection of other dishes. While we waited and woke up a little Bananaquits kept us amused. White-collared and Antillean Palm Swifts were briefly in the air and Turkey Vulture occasionally soared over. Black-throated Green Warbler was seen. The surrounding trees included quite a mixture such as West Indian Mahogany, Blue Mahoe, Mango, Caribbean Pines, and Teak. The butterflies Zebra Heliconians and Cloudless Sulphurs were already on the wing. There were several of the lizard Anolis garmani, the green adults with orange dewlaps being particularly attractive. After breakfast we set out on an exploratory walk of a track outside the hotel perimeter. This was a fine level path, and many butterflies were flying in the sunshine. Highlight was the attractive endemic satyrid Calisto zangis; there were several Dryas iulia; the tailed skipper Urbanus proteus; and the lovely green hairstreak Chlorostrymon simaethis. There were many cosmopolitan weeds such as Tridax procumbens, Emilia fosbergii, Desmodium species, the iris Butterball Trimezia martinicensis, and the sedge Dichromena colorata. A female Jamaican Woodpecker was much admired and the buzz of the wings of the many stunning Red-billed Streamertails was a more or less constant accompaniment. Zenaida Dove was here too. Back at the hotel we prepared our things (me seeing Jamaican Lizard Cuckoo from my Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 2 balcony) and waited for the driver Rico to arrive. Once I’d convinced him we were indeed driving up to Hardwar Gap, along the road above our hotel, and not Hagley’s Gap a very long way off, we had a fine shortish journey up to the fascinating habitat on either side of the pass. The roads were as ever twisty and slow even though the distance on a map seems so short. Through the garrison settlement of Newcastle and once in good habitat I chose a stop that proved excellent for birds. Almost everything had to be qualified by ‘endemic’ as we saw Jamaican Spindalis, Jamaican Oriole, Orangequit, Jamaican Vireo, Blue Mountain Vireo, Arrow-headed Warbler, Jamaican Woodpecker, Jamaican Euphonia, and Yellow-shouldered Grassquit. The red gesneriacean Achimenes erecta was in flower. Rufous-throated Solitaire was seen briefly. Lunch was conviently available in a cafe just below the pass, where Red-billed Streamertails were much in evidence at the feeders. Here we also saw Black-faced Grassquit and added Sad Flycatcher to the Jamaican endemic list, and Greater Antillean Bullfinch to the regional endemic list. Anolis reconditus was identified. The clouds had gathered and there was a little rain but we were pleased to find the weather not too bad at all on the northern side of the pass, the fog thickening a little later but we had a great afternoon walkng slowly down the road towards Section, and once past the scattered small houses the forest became much better. At the first stop was White-eyed Thrush and we would see several more. Rufous-tailed Flycatcher was seen and a very close Jamaican Vireo. Tree Ferns were now a feature and there were more lush epiphytes on this side of the pass. The orchid Encyclia cochleata was in flower. The Melastomataceae were a feature of the area, with species of Conostegia, Mecranium, Meriania, and Miconia. Piper aduncum had distinctive recurved flower spikes, and the climbing bamboo Chusquea abietifolia scrambled over the vegetation. The gentian Lisianthus latifolius had attractive tubular yellow flowers. The endemic Schefflera sciadophyllum was here, and the begonias were Begonia glabra and Begonia minor. The roadsides were dominated by the alien ginger Hedychium coronarium. The road was very quiet today with only the very occasional vehicle. An American Kestrel perched on the wires, with several Loggerhead Kingbirds seen. A highlight was the two Jamaican Todies that I spotted as we walked. This was the first representative of an endemic Greater Antillean family that we would see all five members of during the tour. Nearly every individual allowed a close approach and fine views. But the real highlight was a pair of Crested Quail Doves, spotted at the forest edge and watched for ages in superb view. This was a remarkable way to see such a wary and often difficult to observe species and quite a highlight for the first day. This and the other Quail-Doves are some of the most sought after and difficult to see endemics as stealth and silence are essential to stand a chance of seeing these very shy birds. The Jamaican species is beautiful, predominantly grey, with purplish wings, and a small crest. Deciding it was best to end on such a high we turned around and drove the windy roads back to the lodge. Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 3 Day 3 Saturday 1st December Blue Mountains, Kingston, to Port Antonio We left at 6 a.m. and drove back up to Hardwar Gap to spend the first part of the morning in the fine habitat there. En route we saw Zenaida Dove well. On the northern side of the pass we made our first stop. Perhaps our main target this morning was the elusive and unobtrusive icterid, Jamaican Blackbird. This unusual species forages in bromelaids and along mossy trunks. No sooner had we alighted than I spotted this very special species working a mossy tree trunk. This site and one in the north- east, are the two most reliable in which to find this scarce species. We had fine prolonged views. There was bird activity almost continuously and many of the species seen yesterday were again recorded. Crested Quail Dove was again seen superbly, perched on a branch, and we watched this bird for more than ten minutes! Endemics seen again were both vireos, Arrowhead Warbler, Jamaican Oriole, Jamaican Spindalis, Jamaican Tody, Jamaican Woodpecker, and Red-billed Streamertail. Ring-tailed Pigeon was seen extremely well, as was Rufous-throated Solitaire. Migrant warblers today included Black-and White, Prairie, and Common Yellowthroat. Jamaican Ringlet was seen, and Dolores Skipper nectared on a ginger flower. We finished our walk at Section where the sun was out, and a few locals gathered in the street. The butterfly Malachite was on the wing. A surprise in this part of the island was two distant Amazona parrots in flight, too far off to identify, but most likely Yellow-billed Parrots.