Stephen Ave Historic Architecture Tour Brendan Conboy Alberta Masonry Council 1 Tour Route 3) Turing around at the end of Stephen Ave at the municipal 1) Tour starts at gathering point at 5) Tour ends at Palomino 4) Entering the alleyway behind building. Tour heads back 4th Sreet and 8th AVE S.W. Stephen Ave and 9th Ave towards 2st Street S.E. 2 Historic Intro A Fort on the Frontier Just over 140 years ago the Calgary area was a total wilderness. Considered unfit for agriculture and too far from markets and waterways to justify large scale trade, it was left to the trappers and native peoples. As part of Rupert’s Land, a territory of the Hudson’s Bay Company until 1870, the area was nominally part of British North America. To say that the area was “under control” of the company or British Empire would misleading. Incursions by trappers into Alberta had been few and the vast area of western Canada was an ungovernable expanse. Whiskey traders from south of the 49th parallel trespassed easily into the territory, setting up forts and trading whiskey with local natives. The American traders obeyed no civil law and unlike the Canadians were not organized by an Imperial company. They shamelessly traded poisonous whiskey and violently supressed native tribes. This culminated in a massacre at Cypress Hills in 1872 in which American traders killed 30 Assinaboin people. The Canadian government could no longer ignore these incursions onto British sovereignty and in 1974 the North West Mounted Police were created and deployed to southern Alberta. 3 Historic Intro A Fort on the Frontier Fort Calgary was completed in 1875, built of wood floated down the river from the mountains. The permanent presence of the N.W.M.P. brought stability to the area, making it a safe haven, which grew into an informal settlement of wooden shakes, tents and teepees. Living conditions in this early town were so extreme that the posted troops mutinied, leaving their Fort because it was not properly heated. It was not until the arrival of the railroad in 1885 that the Calgary we know started to take shape. Local inhabitants had no say in the location of the railway station which the CPR built on the opposite side of the elbow river from the settlement. The CPR drew up a street grid aligned with its rail line and started selling lots. People from the old settlement took advantage of a tax incentive and physically moved their old structures across the river on the winter ice to put on the lots, in the newly established town of Calgary. From this point forward Calgary grew into a small prairie city due to the migration brought by the railroad. Calgary’s origins as a para-military fort in a hostile wilderness and a town planned by the railway company have left indelible impacts on the physical form and character of the city to this day. 4 8th Street (Stephen Ave) Overview This street is one block from the CPR rail station, running east-west across the original townsite of Calgary. Along with 9th street one block to the south, this became the de- facto main commercial area of the city. As Calgary changed from a dusty rail stop into a bustling city 8th Ave became the focal point of the city’s premier retail activity in the construction boom years between 1890 and 1914. While nearly all of the original buildings on 9th Ave have since been demolished, 8th Ave has alone been preserved and still serves it’s function as a shopping street and the main public space of the downtown. After the birth of the oil industry Calgary’s downtown changed dramatically from a tightly packed mixed use low- rise area to a high-rise corporate centre. Most of the original city was obliterated in the scramble to build cheap, large office spaces. Stephen Avenue as we know it today, escaped demolition due to the city’s structural downtown plan, which conceived Stephen Ave as a pedestrian haven amidst the dense office buildings and automobile traffic. 5 5th to 6th Street The Barron building 1949-1951. 610 9th Ave S.W. This building marks the beginning of Calgary’s dominance as a corporate centre. In 1949 Calgary was still coming out of a prolonged period of stagnation which had lasted from 1915 and through the great depression. Very little had been built in those years and when oil was discovered in Laduc, Alberta finally had an economic asset to exploit. There was no modern office space in Calgary or Edmonton, so Calgary developer J.B. Barron sized the opportunity and built the first corporate building in the province, giving Calgary a competitive edge. The Barron building’s scale and modern Art Deco style set a new standard in Alberta for office construction. Despite being modern for Calgary the Building was quite behind the times as the dominance of Art Deco had ended after the second world war. 1951 was firmly in the modernist period and Calgary would not see another building like it. The façade features polished black marble on the first floor, tyndall stone on the second and third and buff coloured brick. The building has been home to many of Calgary’s first oil companies, the Uptown theater and a penthouse in which the developer lived. 6 The Eaton’s Department Store 1929. 408 8th Ave S.W. Built on the eve of the great depression and outside the main commercial area, the Eaton’s building was a daring development. It was designed by the Ross & McDonald architecture firm which also designed the Montreal Eton’s store. Only a quarter of the intended store was built as the original design would have covered the entire block and been 10 storeys. The building was notable for having the first escalators in Calgary. The original building was demolished but part of the original façade was reused in the construction of the current building, housing the Brooks Brother’s store. Elements Renaissance revival can be seen in this façade’s round arched arcade and spiral-wound pilasters. The use of tyndall stone was also used in the new building, making for a seamless transition from the original façade to the modern corners. 7 The Lancaster Building 1912-1918. 300 8th Ave S.W. This was the first 10 storey building in downtown Calgary and had a prolonged construction period beginning in 1912 and completed in 1918 due to the out brake of the first world war. The Lancaster, like many of the war period buildings had an imperial British flavor and was built in the Edwardian style. The most eye catching feature is the ornate terracotta cornice. The builder, James Stewart Mackie was a prominent Calgary citizen who established a fur, sporting goods and gun business after moving to the city in 1886 and eventually served as an alderman and mayor in 1910. The building has a venerable history, housing the Eton’s store, grain exchange, the offices of prime minister R.B. Bennett and a radio station. 8 The Canada Life Assurance Building 1912-1913. 301 8th Ave S.W. This building embodies the exuberance of the building boom of 1912 with it’s vertical windows topped by round arches. Bright terracotta covers the entire façade. Other materials include bronze, used in the spandrels that separate the windows and tile which was imported from the prestigious Hathernware ceramics Ltd., in London England. Unlike many on Stephen Ave, this building has kept its original ground floor façade. The interior however, has been altered as it was integrated into the Bankers Hall office space. 9 The Allen (Palace) Theater 1921. 219 8th Ave S.W. The Theater was opened by the fleeting Canadian cinema giants Barey Allen and his two sons. The company started in Brantford Ontario and moved to Calgary in 1909. For a time they owned Cinemas in every major Canadian city but were eventually cut out of the market by Paramount pictures which blocked Allen theaters from showing the most popular films. In 1929 Famous players took over the theater. From 1923 to 1927 the building was home to the Calgary Prophetic Bible Institute, headed by Bible Bill (William Abrehart) who made broadcasts from the theater. The Building was based on another Allen theater in Toronto, with red brick imported to mimic the style of the other theater. This makes the Corinthian columns and entablature stand out. 10 Edwardian store Facades The Leeson an Lineham Block th 1907-1909 1910. 209 8 Ave S.W. Between Scotia Centre & HBC This simple commercial block was built by joint venture, The three modest buildings are exemplary George Leeson and John Lineham. Both men were true of the vernacular Edwardian commercial western entrepreneurs. Prior to their real estate buildings in Calgary. Originally housing ventures they had owned stagecoach lines, as well as hardware and furrier businesses, these ranching and logging ventures, which made significant buildings typify the small entrepreneurs of contributions to the development of industry in the the pioneer city. the Kraft block is one of Calgary area. This was the last of the two men’s joint the only buildings on Stephen Ave to have ventures, as Leeson died in 1910. kept it’s owning, a feature that was ubiquitous when 8th Ave was bustling with The building in unusually simple with its only pedestrians. adornments being the bands of yellow sandstone. The deep Cornice emphasizes the height and stature of the building, making it more imposing than would otherwise be.