001 : :out there 19 MICHAEL SALVAREZZA AND CHRISTOPHER P. WEAVER © 2011 Eco-Photo Explorers 2 3 4 > THE FANTASY OF ARRIVING ON A REMOTE ISLAND FAR FROM THE EVERYDAY HUSTLE WAS SHATTERED. THE BLACKBERRY BEGAN BUZZING ALMOST AS SOON AS WE REACHED THE DOCK OF RANGALI ISLAND, A TINY OUTPOST IN THE ARI ATOLL. YES, RANGALI IS HOME TO THE PLUSH AND LUXURIOUS CONRAD RESORT BUT IS THERE NO ESCAPE FROM EMAIL AND TEXT MESSAGES AND... WELL, CIVILIZATION? A FURTIVE GLANCE AT THE BLACKBERRY SCREEN CONFIRMED IT – THERE WAS AN EMAIL FROM THE BOSS. THAT’S WHAT THE ‘ON/OFF’ SWITCH IS FOR, RIGHT? IMAGINE A RAINB OW SEA ... he Maldives have long been a archipelago have been set aside for 30-minute flight to Rangali. From the air destination at the top of many tourism, each with a single resort. we had spectacular views of the islands, divers ‘bucket list’ and for good reefs and atolls of this very special place. reason. With picture-perfect Some divers come here looking for Like a necklace of fine jewels, the islands lagoons, brilliant white sand liveaboard adventures. With so much dot the blue water below and each one Tbeaches, swaying palm trees and ocean to explore, who can blame them? looks more inviting than the next. Visitors colourful coral reefs teeming with life, the For those seeking shipboard adventures, take speedboats or seaplanes to their Maldives hold the allure of visiting a there are several well-appointed and respective resorts. We were fortunate that living postcard. well-known liveaboards that operate in a seaplane is necessary to get to Rangali, these waters. But for some, the idea of which provided us a unique perspective The Republic of the Maldives is a small spending time in a luxury resort with on the islands and, for us, was the much- Islamic nation of roughly 1190 tiny access to world-class diving just minutes preferred option! islands and 270,000 people stretched away from spectacular beaches and across a vast expanse of the Indian comfortable accommodation is an After settling in and getting a good Ocean just south and west of India. The unbeatable combination. night’s sleep in an over-water bungalow, low-lying coral islands, none reaching it was time to go diving. Our first dive higher than a few metres above sea level, Our adventure in the and innumerable reefs form 26 atolls and Maldives centered on the total territorial area is 115,300 the Ari Atoll, with a square kilometres, of which only 298 is home base on Rangali actually dry land. Many islands are Island and the Conrad uninhabited. Many are home to the Resort. After arriving in Maldives residents and are difficult for the international airport tourists to visit. But a number of small on Male, we boarded islands scattered throughout the a seaplane for a quick 1 A coral grouper opens wide for a tooth cleaning session 2 The reefs of the Maldives explode with colours 3 This honey combed moray leers at the camera 4 Mantis shrimp defending its lair 5 5 A superbly camouflaged leaf fish blends in with the reef terrain sportdiving magazine april/may 2012 divetheblue.net 20 21 CLOUDS OF COLOURFUL REEF FISH SWARM THE TOPS OF THESE SMALL CORAL MOUNTAINS WHILE THE SIDES PROVIDE ENDLESS NOOKS AND CRANNIES FOR MORE SECRETIVE MARINE LIFE. WE SPOTTED SCHOOLS OF FAIRY BASSLETS IN BLAZING REDS, ORANGES AND PURPLES... DEEPER ALONG THE REEF WALLS WE FOUND PARROTFISH, GROUPERS AND MORAY EELS 6 7 8 9 10 6 A school of plankton eating white was on the Angaga Thila, a short boat shark for a few moments before it Throughout the week of diving we visited to rough water conditions. October and Environment Minister of the Maldives, edge soldierfish Myripristis vittata ride away aboard a traditional dhoni , descended out of view, even though we shipwrecks, thilas, walls and other coral November have calm weather but the announced the protection of coral reefs 7 The striking powder blue surgeonfish which was set up as a well-equipped dive were here at a time when whale sharks mazes filled with abundant marine life. waters are cloudy due to annual plankton and waters in and around Baa atoll Acanthurus leucosternon often forms boat. A ‘Thila’ is a coral formation that are not very commonly seen. Lionfish, soldierfish, pufferfish and many blooms. These months offer reduced Hanifaru, Baa atoll An’gafaru and South large and dense schools in the Maldives rises sharply from the atoll floor and other intriguing fish species kept our visibility in exchange for the opportunity Ari atoll Maamigili, all with a focus on Found in most clear water reef habitats reaches within five to15 metres of the At Mandhoo Corner, a curve in the cameras firing and our memory cards full. to see larger pelagics such as whale protecting sharks and other critically to about 20m. surface. Clouds of colourful reef fish fringing reef near Mandhoo Island, our sharks and manta rays. In all seasons, threatened species. The reefs here are 8 A gaudily coloured bivalve. swarm the tops of these small coral macro photography interests exploded as Resort diving in the Maldives does not divers should be prepared for strong under siege, as they are the world over, 9 The jewel fairy basslet Pseudanthias mountains while the sides provide endless we spotted an ornate ghost pipefish come at the expense of great diving. currents on many dives. from rising water temperatures and other squamipinnis is found around coral nooks and crannies for more secretive hiding expertly among the fronds of a sea Divers can enjoy world class diving along pressures. For divers who visit today, outcrops in clear lagoons, patch reefs marine life. We spotted schools of fairy fan. Without the whoops and hollers of spectacular coral jungles while also The Maldive Islands have been at the however, these reefs remain a rainbow of and steep slopes to a depth of 35m. basslets in blazing reds, oranges and the dive guide, we’d never have seen it! drinking in the comfort and beauty of the forefront of environmental protection. brilliant and vibrant colour and they host 10 The beautiful red fire goby purples flitting among the coral fingers, Later, as we descended along the reef, island based resorts. Most of the dives Recently Mohamed Aslam, the a fascinating array of marine life. Nemateleotris magnifica inspiring us to refer to these waters as we encountered a sedentary leaf fish and are done as two-tank excursions, although > is found on the upper ‘The Rainbow Sea’. In addition, blue managed to pop-off several shots before an occasional all-day 3-tank diving safari reef. HAA ALIF fusiliers patrolled the reefs, swooping moving along down the reef. is offered along with shorter one-tank trips 11 Visitors transfer to HAA DHAAL ATOLL along and paying us divers almost no and night dives. seaplane for a 30 minute SHAVIYANI mind. Deeper along the reef walls we On a night dive at Mirhi Thila we saw flight to Rangali Island. ATOLL NOONU found parrotfish, groupers and moray basket and feather stars in abundance, The best months for diving in the RAA ATOLL ATOLL 12 These fish know Kuredhdhi eels, all warily casting an eye to the along with a large peacock mantis Maldives are January through April when they have to give this LHAVIYANI ATOLL strange bubble blowing visitors swimming shrimp. These crustaceans are perfectly the islands are blessed with fine weather shark a wide berth! Kunfunadhoo through their territory. suited to their habitat and have been and terrific visibility. Once the rainy KAAFU ATOLL known to literally smash aquarium glass season starts in May, clouds and storms MALE Fenfushi Thila is another spectacular coral with their modified front claws. Looking are frequent all the way through ALIF (ARI) ATOLL Dhiggiri jungle, complete with cleaning stations, very much like The Blob from the movie of September, with many days of diving lost Alimantha resident moray eels and numerous the same name, the Maldives sponge VAAVU FAAF ATOLL ATOLL anemones, each with a resident family of snail is endemic to this region and we MEEMU DHAAL ATOLL photogenic anemonefish. Here we were spotted a nice specimen as we neared ATOLL THAA mesmerized as gaudily coloured the end of our night dive. ATOLL India surgeonfish swam by, the powder-blue LAAMU surgeonfish perhaps the most frequently Rangali Outside was a reef on the outside ATOLL Sri Lanka seen in these waters. of the fringing coral reef near Rangali Island, and it was here that we MALDIVES GAAF ALIF ATOLL Our dives in the Air Atoll also included photographed sweetlips, grouper and GAAF DHAAL the famous Manta Point, where we myriad species of wrasse. In the Maldives ATOLL encountered manta rays hovering above butterflyfish and angelfish come in the GNAVIYANI ATOLL in the currents. We were also very most outrageous colours and designs and SEENU 11 12 Gan ATOLL fortunate to swim with a juvenile whale all were prominent on these dives. sportdiving magazine april/may 2012 divetheblue.net 22 Getting There year, with temperatures in the 80s The international airport is located and 90s Fahrenheit each day. May on the main island of Male and is through November is the rainy serviced by direct flights from Dubai, season. Colombo (Sri Lanka) and a few other Currency destinations. The local currency is the rufiya (Rf) Visitors will board speedboats or but US Dollars and Euros are seaplanes depending on the location generally accepted at all resorts. and distance of the resort. Check Electricity with your resort for arrangements.