LIBRARY ^NSSACtto^^ '^^^-mT^o^ Type "E" Textile Extractor This 36" Whizzer Will Take Care of a 20,000 Spindle Mill Direct Connected Electric Drive, for either alternating or direct current. Sizes 30" — 36" — 42" and larger. Self-oiling Step-box, Toggle Brake, Self-balancing. Also Built for Belt and Engine Drive. Speedy—Safe— Clean WRITE FOR INFORMATION formerly Schaum & Uhlinger Glenwood Ave. at 2nd St. Philadelphia Forty Years of Progress in the Manufacture of Jacquard Card-Cutting and Lacing Machinery Absolute accuracy is the first essential in machinery for cutting and lacing Jacquard cards, and this fact was thoroughly appreciated by John Royle and his two sons, when they started, forty years ago, to build piano machines in the little shop shown at the right in the illustration above. Already they had acquired an enviable reputation as makers of high-class machinery for wood-engravers and wood-type manufacturers ; so that they had the advantage of experience and suitable equipment, for work of an exacting character. At first, only foot-power piano machines were made, but five years later in 1883, they brought out the positive-action power-operated repeater; and about 1890 developed the first successful automatic lock-stitch lacer. Within more recent years they have introduced a power-operated piano machine, and a hand- operated type of repeater. From the beginning of their business John Royle & Sons have adhered rigidly to the highest possible standards of material and workmanship, and have brought to bear on their work a family talent for mechanical design, which has found its highest expression, so far, in the many inventions of Vernon Royle, the present head of the firm. The result has been a continual series of improvements so that Royle machines of to-day represent all that is best in twentieth-century machine building as well as in fitness for the special duties they must perform. It is worthy of mention also, that the litde shop shown above has been suc- ceeded by a series of four and five story brick buildings which contain many thousand feet of floor space and are equipped with a complete assortment of modern machine tools and other manufacturing facilities. In addition to Jacquard card machinery, this firm manufactures a wide line of machinery for photo-engravers; and a third line for rubber-working establishments. A. P. Villa $ Bros., inc. Raw and Thrown Silk NEW YORK YOKOHAMA, SHANGHAI, CANTON MILAN, TURIN, LYONS, NEW YORK OFFICE 95 MADISON AVE. Telephone Madison Sq. 10080 MILLS AT PASSAIC, N. J. MIFFLINBURQ, PA. NETCONQ, N. J. TURBOTVILLE, PA. ERWIN, TENN. Bring Us Your Dyestuff Problems The application of the dyestuff to textiles is as much an art as the production of the dyestuff. Dyeing is a chemical, not a mechanical process. An intimate knowledge of the possibilities of every dyestuff is often necessary to meet the particular requirements of the consumer, and the variation of local conditions, due to differences in the quality of water, steam, and chemicals makes the dyehouse problem an in- dividual one. Because of this individual factor the technique of the applica- tion of dyes commands today, as it has done in the past, the best talent among those distributors who cater to the highest class of trade. The technical department of this Company is manned by chemists who have been picked because of their expert knowledge, practical experience, and demonstrated ability. Well-equipped laboratories are maintained at our different offices, for the service of our custoftiers. You are invited to submit your problems. Your questions are welcome. Our advice in answer involves no obligation on your part. National Aniline & Chemical Company Incorporated Main Sales Office: 21 Burling Slip, New York Branches: Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Cincinnati, Hartford, Kansas City, Milwaukee, Minneapolis, Philadelphia \Jb-^^^ ^iiiiiiiniiMiiMiiiniiMiiiiiiMiinimiNiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiHnMiiiiiiMiHnininiiiimiiiiiiniiiiNiiiiiiiiiniHiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiininiiiiiHiiiiiiiimiMnm American Raw Silk I | I Company | INCORPORATED RAW AND THROWN SILK I 25 MADISON AVENUE NEW YORK GEO. WALWORTH MIDDLETON I Phones: Madison Sq. 6531-6532 ^iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiDiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiii II I I I n N I II II MM ii ii ii i JNO. DUNLOP'S SONS Quality Organzines Special buying arrangements insure us the finest selection of Japan Silk imported by MITSUI & COMPANY MORIMURA, ARAl & COMPANY HARA & COMPANY JAPAN COTTON TRADING COMPANY and MOGI & COMPANY Our orders are for their choicest silks and our agree- ments insure us the first selection of over three-quarters the silk produced in Japan. This is why we are able to pro- duce the Highest Quality Organ- zines and guarantee every pound we sell. Jno. Dunlop's Sons Organzine Specialists 254 FOURTH AVENUE NEW YORK Phone, Gramercy 382 8 PARK AVENUE, PATERSON Phone, Paterson 4933 HAND BOOKS OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY Vol. 3 Silk Throwing Giving the Most Complete Data ever Published on the Various Processes Raw Silk is Subjected to When Converting it into Yarn E. A. POSSELT, Editor of "Posselt's Textile Journal" AUTHOR and PUBLISHER of numerous books ontheTextile Industry RICHLY ILLUSTRATED TEXTILE PUBLISHING COMPANY 2154 N. 21st St., PHILADELPHIA LONDON, ENG: Sampson Low, Marston & Co., Ltd. TOKYO. JAPAN: Maruzen Co.. Ltd. The Pacemaker T7or eighty years the pacemaker! — an enviable position in Amer ican industry — a leadership maintained through constant effort in research, experi- ment and invention. X This, briefly, is the business story of Chenev Brothers. JfSfEY' /iJS 7?i^ /o^ Eaw silk denotes silk in skeins, as reeled from the cocoon or rereeled. Raw silk is the finest, most elastic, and most dur- able of all textile fibres, being especially prized for its lustre. It is the most costly fibre used by the textile industry, because of the great amount of time and care involved in raising the worm and reeling the silk. The main silk-producing countries are Japan, China, and Italy, followed by Turkey, Russia, France, Austria-Hungary, Persia, India, Greece, Spain, Indo- China, and the Balkan States. Silk originated in China and for over 3,000 years the Chinese monopolized not only its production but its manufacture. In the export of raw silk China maintained its supremacy until within the last decade, and when Japan assumed first place. Silk is the product of the silk worm or caterpillar, of which there are many varieties. The one that pro- duces the bulk of the world's silk, as well as the best, is the Bombyx mori which has been domesticated for centuries. Tussah silks, used in the production of goods of rough appearance, are produced by "wild" (i. e., undomesticated) silk worms. Domesticated silkworms are hatched out by sub- jecting the stored eggs to artificial heat. In Japan about 60 per cent of the crop is usually produced in the spring, about dO per cent in the summer, and about 30 per cent in the autumn. The voracious worm is fed on leaves stripped from mulberry trees and grows so rapidly that four times within a feeding period of a little over a month it sheds its skin and grows a new one. After reaching full development, the w^orm starts to spin its cocoon or silken envelope; the silk fluid is exuded from the worm's underlip in two strands called hrins, which 1 immediately unite to form the have or silk filament. The worm completes its cocoon in about three days, then changes into a chrysalis, and this within a fort- night, if not killed, develops into a moth, which breaks its way out of one end of the cocoon. The female moth lays her eggs and dies shortly thereafter. The cycle from birth to death, including all transforma- tions, is less than 60 days. As there is a lapse of about 10 months between the laying time and the next hatching, some silk firms have extensive cold- storage rooms for keeping the eggs. Pierced cocoons, from which moths have emerged, can not be reeled, so only about 2 per cent of the chrysalides are allowed to develop into moths and emerge to lay eggs for the next crop; the remainder are killed in the cocoon, usually by stifling in hot, dry air. About 10 per cent of the cocoon crop consists of doupions, or double cocoons, where adjacent worms have spun their cocoons side by side and have so inter- woven that the two filaments must be reeled together. Such silk is coarse and uneven and is usually kept for local manufacture, though some is exported for use in making goods of rough appearance. Reeling of Raw Silk. Reeling is a most simple process, requiring the product of from 2,500 to 3,000 silkworms to produce a pound of raw silk. The reelable silk in a cocoon varies between 300 and 700 yards ; only about half, and that the middle length of the silk, as spun by the worm, is strong and even enough for reeling. In most cases six cocoons are reeled into one to form the raw silk, but the number varies from 3 to 12 or more, according to the quality of silk and the size of thread desired. The cocoons that are to be reeled together are placed in a basin of warm water, and after the natural gum with which the fibre is com- bined has softened, and the outer coating of loose and uneven fibres is brushed off, the reeler finds the ends of the true or reelable filaments and runs them on the reel together ; the filaments stick together and form one thread by reason of their softened gum. The silk IS cleaned and twisted in reeling, either by bringing the thread back and passing it around itseff about 200 times in a seven-inch spiral, or by twisting the threads of two different basins around each other before they are passed on to separate reels.