International Research Journal of Engineering and Technology (IRJET) e-ISSN: 2395-0056 Volume: 05 Issue: 07 | July-2018 www.irjet.net p-ISSN: 2395-0072 MODIFICATION OF KUSUM OIL, ISOLATION OF KEY FATTY ACIDS AND PREPARATION OF COSMETICS PAYAL S. CHOUDHARI1, MEHERESH GUPTA2, Dr. VIJAY Y. KARADBHAJNE3 1Department of Oil, Fats & Surfactants Technology, Laxminarayan Institute of Technology, RTM Nagpur 2Department of Oil, Fats & Surfactants Technology, Laxminarayan Institute of Technology, RTM Nagpur 3Head, Department of Oil, Fats & Surfactants Technology, Laxminarayan Institute of Technology, RTM Nagpur University, Nagpur- India ---------------------------------------------------------------------***--------------------------------------------------------------------- Abstract - With the increasing modernization, people are Table - 2: Total Utilization of Minor Oil Seeds becoming more health conscious. This has led to the increasing importance of Cosmetology in today’s world. However, the Sr. Variety of Minor Oil Seeds Oil No Seeds (in tonnes) (in tonnes) normal cosmetic products are prepared using mineral oils 01. Sal 2,00,000 20,000 having petroleum origin, which is non-biodegradable and 02. Mahua 71,426 25,000 03. Neem 25,000 3,125 contributes to toxic organics to the environment. The purpose 04. Kusum 9,900 8,000 of this research is to produce a range of cosmetic products using Kusum Oil, which is renewable and eco-friendly raw Kusum is a dry forest tree which serves as a host for lac material. Various cosmetics products such as moisturizing insects. Its oil content ranges from 50-62%. Oil is extracted lotions, shaving creams and hair conditioners can be prepared by pressing the seeds in an expeller, which can yield 36% of using Kusum oil. It has emerged as a very effective ingredient in the preparation of the various cosmetic products. The the oil. This oil is yellowish white to yellowish brown in various physicochemical analyses was carried out with the colour. It is a semi-solid fat having a faint odour of bitter prepared formulations which gave excellent results. The almond. It is composed of 37% glycerol esters. Since it has details regarding the same are available in the further 91% of fatty acids, it can be used for the preparation of soft contents of this paper. soaps which produce more lather. It can be used for the treatment of itches, aches and skin diseases. It also serves as Key Words: Non-traditional Oils, Kusum Oil, Eco- illuminant, lubricant and hair oil. It has a cleansing effect on friendly, Cosmetic Products the scalp. It has the ability to improve the Spreadability as well as the shelf life of the final products. 1. INTRODUCTION Table – 3: Physico-chemical Characteristics of Kusum Oil Out of 250000 trees known species only 4500 species, are Characteristics Values Specific Gravity (32oC) 0.9099 being examined for oil all over the world. India possesses Refractive Index (40oC) 1.46107 about 100 non-edible oil bearing seeds. Many of these Acid Value 31.3 Saponification Value 234.3 species are not cultivated, but they grow in the wild. Out of Iodine Value 60.2 100 species, only 10 species have attracted the attention of Unsaponifiables (%) 2.1 Acetyl Value 4.0 technologists for commercial use, some of which are Mahua, Hehner Value 88.7 Sal, Neem, Karanja, Jatropha and, Kusum. Table - 4: Fatty acid composition of Kusum Oil Table -1: Estimated total potential of minor oil seeds of tree origin Fatty Acid % Composition Sr. Variety Seed Oil Oil Nature of Oleic Acid 43 No of Potential Yield Potential Oil Minor (in ( in %) (in tonnes) Arachidic Acid 21 Oil tonnes) Eicosenoic Acid 15 Seeds 01. Sal 5,54,000 12.3 6,88,000 Hard Palmitic Acid 8 02. Mahua 4,90,000 35 1,71,000 Hard Linoleic Acid 4.5 03. Neem 4,18,000 20 83,600 Semi-hard 04. Kusum 90,000 33 30,000 Semi-hard Stearic Acid 1-2 Behenic Acid 1-2 Erucic Acid 1-2 © 2018, IRJET | Impact Factor value: 7.211 | ISO 9001:2008 Certified Journal | Page 239 International Research Journal of Engineering and Technology (IRJET) e-ISSN: 2395-0056 Volume: 05 Issue: 07 | July-2018 www.irjet.net p-ISSN: 2395-0072 The literature studies reveal that since the 18th century a lot homogenous mixture. Further, the water phase was slowly of work has been done in the field of cosmetics. During the mixed to the oil phase, which was assisted with vigorous very first attempts, natural oils such as almond oil were agitation and continuous heating. During this time of mixing blended with waxes to yield skin care products. Later, the two phases, SLS was crushed into the fine powder form utilization of mineral oil for the preparation of cosmetic and added to the reaction mass. After the complete addition, products had become the trend. But now technologists are the product was cooled to yield shaving cream. again trying to switch towards the natural raw materials. With the same objective, this paper highlights the usage of Table – 6: Composition of Shaving Cream Kusum Oil as a basic raw material for cosmetic preparations. Chemicals Composition (in g) Different formulations were prepared and were tested for Stearic acid 10 their pH value, moisture content, percent solids, surface Blend Oil 5 GMS 1.5 tension, and viscosity. KOH solution (80%) 5 Glycerol 5 Borax 1 2. EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE SLS 2 Distilled Water 45 As a part of this study, cosmetic products such as - moisturizing lotion, shaving cream and hair conditioner were formulated using conventional ingredients and non- 2.3 Hair Conditioner traditional Kusum Oil. The oil phase was prepared in a glass beaker by taking an 2.1 Moisturising lotion appropriate amount of Kusum oil, bee’s wax, soft jelly and GMS and melting them together at to form a homogenous Initially, the specified amount of Stearic acid, Kusum oil, and phase. Rice Bran wax were melted together in a glass beaker. This In a separate beaker, water was heated to about 65 oC and mixture was then neutralized using TEA. The accurate specified quantity of borax and tween 20 were added to it. amount of GMS and soft jelly were weighed, melted and This was then slowly added into the oil phase with mixed with the neutralized mass to form the oil phase. These continuous mixing and heating. The product was cooled contents were heated to about 70oC. down to 40oC and the additives were then added to the same. Further, in a separate beaker, all the water phase ingredients were mixed together and heated to 70oC. Now, the oil phase Table – 7: Composition of Hair Conditioner was slowly added into the water phase with continuous Chemicals Composition agitation. After the complete addition, the mixture was Oil Phase :- (in g) cooled to about 50oC. Other additives such as preservatives Soft Jelly 25% Kusum Oil 2 and perfumes were added to this to yield the final product. Bee’s wax 12 Glycerol Monostearate 6 Table – 5: Composition of Moisturising Cream Water Phase :- Tween 20 6 Chemicals Composition Borax 1 Oil Phase :- (in g) Distilled Water 35 Stearic Acid 4 Preservative 0.15% Glycerol Monostearate` 2 Perfume 0.30% Kusum Oil 2 Soft Jelly 1 Rice Bran Wax 3 3. Characterization Water Phase:- TEA 4 Glycerol 3 1. Moisture content – Water in cosmetic formulations Isopropanol 1 helps to keep the skin smooth and soft, as well as Tween 20 2 Distilled Water 27 radiant and healthy by retaining moisture in the Preservative 0.15% outermost skin layer. Water is a major ingredient in Perfume 0.30% moisturizer because it helps in mixing the ingredients and retains its homogeneity. 2.2 Shaving Cream 2. Gritty Matter – This test is done to check the presence of solid particles in the prepared Initially, specified amount of Stearic acid an Blend oil (a formulations. blend of Kusum oil and coconut oil) were melted together in 3. pH – It is the measure of acidity or alkalinity of a a glass beaker and a mere quantity of GMS was added to the product. The pH range of human skin is about 5-6. same. In a separate beaker distilled water, glycerol, Borax, The pH of the skin products must be near this range 80% KOH solution were mixed together and heated to form a so that they are readily accepted by the skin. © 2018, IRJET | Impact Factor value: 7.211 | ISO 9001:2008 Certified Journal | Page 240 International Research Journal of Engineering and Technology (IRJET) e-ISSN: 2395-0056 Volume: 05 Issue: 07 | July-2018 www.irjet.net p-ISSN: 2395-0072 4. Consistency – Cosmetic preparations are defined by oiliness. pH which is one of the most important property for their viscosity or thickness. Formulating such any skin care product was successfully improved and preparations, therefore, largely depends upon the brought to the permissible limits. The product had good flow required end-product consistency, influencing the and was easily spreadable on the skin, without much drag. choice of material to use. One desirable factor Similarly talking about shaving cream, the pH the sample (viscosity) in product development is having a slightly acidic which is favourable for our skin. The next product that easily squeezes out of a tube and important factor when it comes to shaving cream is foam. breaks off cleanly after application. Foam plays a vital role in wetting the beard and smooth flow 5. Surface Tension – Different formulations are of razor over the skin. Absorption Rate is also a deciding defined by their viscosity or thickness. The lower factor for shaving cream. It is very important that the the viscosity, the lower will be the surface shaving cream is quickly absorbed by the skin. tension and the more will be its Spreadability.