PHILIPPINES DIVER ATMOSPHERIC WELCOME They take good care of the coastline in Dauin, and it shows in the quality of the diving, saysSAEED RASHID. He reckons that in terms of critter-diving alone, it can give even Lembeh Strait a run for its money HAVEN’T BEEN EVERYWHERE in the Philippines, but from what I’ve seen Itravelling the country is much like the Jeepney trucks you find in every town – bright, colourful and a delight for all your senses. The underwater world equally doesn’t disappoint, from the biggest fish in the ocean to the smallest nudibranch, with something for everyone. The Dauin coast of the island of Negros offers a feast of diving delights, from the rarest of critters through schools of jackfish to majestic whale sharks, and with an average water temperature of 27-30°C, you’re spoilt for choice. I stayed at Atmosphere, an exclusive, plush but friendly resort in the tranquil setting of beautifully manicured lawns overlooking the sparkling water of the Bohol Sea. The accommodation can only be described as sumptuous, and with what being quiet to almost empty to completely Above: Giant frogfish local laws stretch to the diving, whereby I estimated to be a staff-to-guest ratio of full, but apart from mealtimes and the seems to hold up the reef at all divers must be accompanied by a guide 4:1, your every need is catered for. obligatory happy hour at the bar you Pyramids. who holds certification from the mayor The resort turns 10 this year, and where wouldn’t really notice any difference; (so sorry, no solo diving) and diving in the some other, younger resorts have started everything ran like a well-oiled machine. marine parks can take place only during to show their age rapidly, Atmosphere still certain hours of the day. looks new and fresh. HE LOVELY THING about the The Philippines, like many other parts This probably has something to do with Tcoastline here is that it is unspoilt, of South-east Asia, sits on the “Ring of the fact that the owners, British couple protected by Filipino law under which all Fire”, which means that there is always Matthew and Gabrielle, live on site and beaches are public. Resorts can’t build on a volcano close by. take a hands-on approach to the day-to- them and steal the views for themselves. The black sand or, in the case of the day running of the resort, often to be seen Even stronger local laws along the Dauin coast, slightly grey sand, shouldn’t walking around with clipboard and tape Dauin coast also mean that it is impossible put you off, because the diving is anything measure trying to improve things! for resorts to build piers and jetties, so the but grey, and actually provides a dramatic During my stay, the resort went from coastline remains more natural. These backdrop for a photographer like me. divErNEt.com 21 divEr PHILIPPINES DIVER appreciate the beauty of these creatures magnifying glass, or you’ll miss these fun when you zoom into your photo on the little guys, which are a delight to see. back of the camera and understand how Maybe it’s the world we live in now, but they got their name, looking just like the the thing that really stood out on my first children’s cartoon character. few dives with Richard was how little he We descended deeper, passing more would hassle or manipulate the wildlife. patches of seagrass, and Richard appeared On my travels, I’m often confronted to be searching for something. At about with guides who want to please you and 15m he found what he was looking for. will deliver photographic subjects right in This time I could see it with my own front of your lens. As a photographer, too eyes but it wasn’t green like the last one. often I come across images that are clearly This was a bright yellow and blue nudi, set up – critters that have been chased also called “Sheep” but of the Swedish from their holes or transported to a more variety. These nudis were much bigger and attractive location just because it makes more colourful, and if I’m honest much a more striking image. easier to photograph. If you don’t have a We know it goes on, but this is a super-macro lens, make sure to carry a practice that needs to be discouraged, and it was great to see that Richard did none of this, pointing out animals, sometimes suggesting a good angle but with no bothering, fiddling or teasing. Later Richard told me that it was written into the guides’ contracts that they do not hassle the marine life and I say well done, it’s refreshing to see! HE CRITTERS I FOUND more Most diving along this part of the coast Tabundant than any others during my is on these grey-sand slopes, with beach- stay at Atmosphere were frogfish. They entry possible for many of the dive-sites. were everywhere – black, brown, orange, Atmosphere also has three boats: two yellow and everything in-between. There modern speedboats and a bigger were so many that even I, with my well- traditional-style boat. Extra vessels can be known dodgy critter-spotting eyes, found hired by the resort for larger groups, so a couple. In fact I ended up asking Richard you always have access to wherever you not to show me any more unless they were should want to go. unusual or in a very good position. Local dive-guide Richard asked me I think on one dive I counted eight, what my favourite critter was, because he which is really good going. really wanted to find it for me. I told him This area is well-known for frogfish, that I didn’t have one, and no checklist of and because of this it has attracted to the things I really wanted to see, but just resort a resident marine biologist, Daniel, enjoyed each dive for what it brought me. who specialises in these weird and I did however mention that I had never wonderful critters. He has even written a seen a “Shaun the Sheep” (Costasiella PADI Frogfish speciality, which you can kuroshimae) nudibranch, and he smiled take on your stay – now that’s very cool. and said: “No problem!” The next day was my chance to visit All the way along the Dauin coast there Apo Island, which is home to about 1000 are small marine reserves. Atmosphere people and well-known for its green Resort sits right in the middle of one of turtles. Our trip started early, because these, so its house reef is in excellent condition, and my first dive was there. We walked in, put our fins on and as soon as I ducked my head under Richard called me over to show me what looked like a yellow grain of sand, indicating that As a photographer, I was pleased that he so much, and he was still giggling to Top left: Pygmy seahorse it was a nudibranch of some sort. didn’t try to show me a new animal every hidden in its seafan home. himself when we exited the water. It wasn’t until I put my macro lens on few minutes, because there are only so Shaun the Sheep had eluded us, but that I started to make it out, but I still many things you can photograph on one Above: Atmosphere, hidden Richard promised that we would find him couldn’t see it properly until I zoomed dive successfully. gem on the Dauin coast. next time! into the photo on the back of the camera The house reef truly had lots to offer. At Top right: A turtle-headed and realised that it was an Oxynoe bubble one point I was “in the zone”, sea-snake pops out from a RUE TO HIS WORD, on our next dive snail, one of the smallest critters I have photographing one of the many frogfish, rock to see what’s going on. Tat San Miguel in the shallows on the ever seen. when I heard Richard shouting in his . seagrass, there on the back of a leaf were Richard clearly had amazing critter- regulator. I looked up and was shocked to Right: Easy to see why it’s two small green dots. I realised at this spotting eyes, and he went on to find me find that I was face to face with a sea called the “Swedish” sheep point why I had never seen Shaun before – nudibranch critter after critter throughout the dive. He snake, one of many that inhabit the area. these two were so ruddy small, and I had told me later that there were even more I could tell that Richard found it very Far right: Tiny “Shaun the been looking for something much bigger. that he had seen but hadn’t shown me. funny that the snake had made me jump Sheep”nudi with eggs. Like the Oxynoe, you can only really divEr 22 divErNEt.com divErNEt.com 23 divEr PHILIPPINES DIVER Above: Jack cruising over If you’re not a lover of snakes then The lack of coral has encouraged the colourful crinoids at Apo sorry, you’re not in luck here. On my two locals to build some artificial reefs. Sites Island. dives around Apo Island I saw more sea such as Cars and Pyramids have had snakes than I have seen anywhere else. concrete blocks, tyres and even the odd Above right: Porcelain crabs like to hide under There really is nothing to worry about, shipping container sunk to give life a anemones.