Nov/Dec 2015 / Volume 24 / No. 7 Cameos of the rainforest Interview with Martin Rapaport Taking the strain: diamonds under crossed polars The Tucson Gem and Mineral Society Proudly Presents: THE 62ND ANNUAL TUCSON GEM AND MINERAL SHOW® Shades of Blue Minerals of the World Aquamarine Photographer Mark Mauthner Azurite Photographer Joe Budd Tucson Convention Center February 11 - 14, 2016 FEATURING: • Retail Dealers • Special & Guest Exhibits • Educational Area • FREE Lecture Series For more information, visit: www.tgms.org CONTENTS Nov/Dec 2015 / V Nov/Dec 2015 olume 24 / No. 7 Martin Rapaport 9 interview The chairman of the Rapaport group offers his thoughts on the market — past, present and future. Cameo s of the rainf Intervie orest w with Martin Rapaport Taking the strain: diamonds under crossed polar s 12 Polished diamonds: take the strain Cover Picture Grenville Millington FGA looks at diamonds A 0.53 ct rose-cut diamond viewed under under crossed polars. the polariscope with the analyzer in position. See Grenville Millington’s article on ‘The ins and outs of polished diamonds: take the strain’ on page 12. Goldsmiths’ Fair 17 Published by The Gemmological Association 2015 of Great Britain (Gem-A) 21 Ely Place, London EC1N 6TD Kim Foxwell FGA DGA reviews the latest offerings from up-and-coming designers t: +44 (0)20 7404 3334 at this year’s Goldsmiths’ Fair. f: +44 (0)20 7404 8843 e: [email protected] w: www.gem-a.com Registered charity no. 1109555 Copyright 2015 ISSN 1746-8043 Deputy Editor 22 Blue John Georgina Brown Auction Advisory Board Mary Burland, Andrew Fellows, Andrew Fellows FGA DGA discusses the Harry Levy history of Blue John and the results of the auction at Fellows auction house Design and Production on 5 October. Zest Design +44 (0)20 7864 1504 Advertising February 11 - 14, 2016 For mediapack and advertising rates contact Georgina Brown, Deputy Editor, Editor’s Note 5 Recent Events 24 at [email protected]. Gem News 6 Jewellery 26 Gem-A Events 8 Gems & Minerals 28 Any opinions expressed in Gems&Jewellery are • Retail Dealers • Special & Guest Exhibits understood to be the views of the contributors Shows and Exhibitions 20 Museum Collections 32 and are not necessarily those of the publishers. • Educational Area • FREE Lecture Series Auctions 22 Book Shelf 34 For more information, visit: www.tgms.org GEMS&JEWELLERY NOV/DEC 2015 3 Polish yourour knowledgeknowledge Are these diamonds or synthetic moissanites?issanites?issanit s?* If you’reyyouou’re not sure,, sign upup forfoorr ourour world-famous Diamond Diploma, onene off the mostmost comprehensivecocomcomprehensivensiv and valuablevaluv able diamond qualiications worldwide. You will gain a thorough understandingstanding ofof diamondsdiamonds and howhow the diamondddiamoiamondnd marketmar operates; learn about diamond grading, the 4Cs and the other factors that inluence value; study the factors that affect a diamond’siamoiamond’snd’s appearanceappe ance and properties;pr pertierties;ties;s; and will learn how to identify and recognize imitations, synthetics and treatments. Our Diamond Diploma graduates can apply for Membership, entitling them to use the prestigious DGA post-nominal letters — a mark of excellence in the trade. For more information or to sign upp contact [email protected]@gem-aedu [email protected]@gem-a.com. * They’re diamonds. JoinJoin us. The Gemmological Association of Great Britain, 21 Ely Place, London, EC1N 6TD, UK. T: +44 (0) 20 7404 3334 F: +44 (0) 20 7404 8843. Registered charity no. 1109555. A company limited by guarantee and registered in England No. 1945780. Registered Ofice: 3rd Floor, 1-4 Argyll Street, London W1F 7LD. EDITORIAL Final thoughts for 2015 Welcome to the November/December issue of Gems&Jewellery. By the time you read this we will have finished our annual Gem-A Conference and the 18th FEEG Symposium, held at the Royal Institute of British Architects in London. This year’s conference was particularly special, as we welcomed delegates and graduates from the Federation for European Education in Gemmology (FEEG). We hope many of you were able to attend and meet with our FEEG delegates, as well as with your colleagues and friends — after all, that is partly what conferences are all about: making new connections in order to share and expand your knowledge. We would like to thank our Sponsors for their generous support, all of whom helped to make this year’s conference truly spectacular. Thank you to our Platinum Sponsors, JTV; our Silver Sponsors AnchorCert GemLab, American Gemological Laboratories, the Canadian Gemmological Association, Gemworld and Marcus McCallum, and our two Bronze Sponsors Fellows Auctioneers and TH March. We diamond qualiications worldwide. would also like to thank our speakers, workshop and trip hosts and all of our delegates for their support and attendance. Look for a report of the conference in operates; learn about diamond grading, the 4Cs and the other factors that inluence the next issue of Gems&Jewellery, published in early 2016. Christmas is now well on its way and, with learn how to identify and recognize imitations, synthetics and treatments. Our Diamond it, a new year and a new start. In the last few months we have welcomed several new Diploma graduates can apply for Membership, entitling them to use the prestigious members of staff to Gem-A, including Fiona — a mark of excellence in the trade. Conway, Finance Manager; Magdalena Nepal, Accounts Assistant and our new interim CEO, Nick Jones. A chartered accountant by trade, Nick brings a wealth of experience to Gem-A, having acted as Head I hope you enjoy this issue of They’re diamonds. of Finance for the Society of Operations Gems&Jewellery. Helen Serras-Herman … after all, that is partly Engineers (SOE) from 2001–2007 and takes a look at two sets of cameos; we as Chief Executive of the SOE from feature a report from the IRV Loughborough what conferences 2007–2013. He is working closely with Conference by Charles Evans and Natalie are all about: making the Gem-A Council and will advise on the Harris; Grenville Millington takes a look at future structure of the Association. Stay diamonds under crossed polars, and we talk new connections tuned for the January/February issue of to diamond titan Martin Rapaport. Gems&Jewellery, which will feature a guest Wishing you all very happy holidays, in order to share editorial from Nick. and best wishes for the New Year ahead. your knowledge. Georgina Brown, Deputy Editor The Gemmological Association of Great Britain, 21 Ely Place, London, EC1N 6TD, UK. T: +44 (0) 20 7404 3334 F: +44 (0) 20 7404 8843. Registered charity no. 1109555. A company limited by guarantee and registered in England No. 1945780. Registered Ofice: 3rd Floor, 1-4 Argyll Street, London W1F 7LD. GEMS&JEWELLERY NOV/DEC 2015 5 GEM NEWS Gem News that there is more work to be done when it COWDRAY PEARLS comes to managing the global diamond supply FETCH TOP SALE PRICE chain. While the vast majority of diamonds The Cowdray Pearls suite — the contribute a significant benefit to the countries necklace strung and mounted by in which they’re produced, as an industry we Cartier and accompanied by a pair of are committed to staying the course until we Cartier-mounted earrings — sold at reach the goal of zero conflict diamonds. Sotheby’s Hong Kong on 7 October “However, the Amnesty International for US$5.27 million. Featured in report ignores the careful and conscientious the Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite framework being put in place in CAR. Interim Autumn Sale, the necklace comprises arrangements regarding future CAR diamond 42 rare, natural, grey saltwater exports and green export zones have been pearls, well-matched in lustre, approved by the Kimberley Process and shape and size. the Civil Society Coalition of the Kimberley The Swiss Gemmological Institute Process Certification Scheme, who have in described the pearls as the “finest addition commissioned an outside company grey pearls in existence” that possess to audit the stockpile. “extraordinary characteristics and merit “We also applaud the Antwerp Diamond special mention and appreciation”. Office’s strict control mechanism for The necklace originally belonged to the each import or export of diamonds. Their Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson, close monitoring led to the interception who died in 1932. Sotheby’s London and seizure in 2014 of two shipments first auctioned the item in 1937. The containing rough diamonds from the Central pearls were displayed at the Andrew Cohen stand at Baselworld 2015, as reported in the African Republic. This is an example of our June issue of Gems&Jewellery (Volume 24, page 31). members’ commitment to ensuring the integrity of the industry.” GIA NOTIFIES TRADE OF WDC CRITICIZES AMNESTY CAR REPORT CIBJO RELEASES CORAL BLUE BOOK INVALIDATED GRADING REPORTS The World Diamond Council (WDC) has issued CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, GIA has invalidated grading reports for a statement in response to the recently has launched online its latest Blue Book, 1,042 diamonds submitted primarily to its published report by Amnesty International delineating acceptable trade practices and grading laboratory in India. An outside party focusing on the global diamond supply chain nomenclature for the coral industry and who gained unauthorized remote access and the Central African Republic (CAR). The trade. The document was compiled by to GIA’s grading information database report claimed diamond trafficking was being the CIBJO Coral Commission, headed by altered the reports. GIA strongly requests used to fund violence in CAR. commission president Enzo Liverino, under that anyone in possession of any of these In its statement, the WDC urges Amnesty the auspices of CIBJO’s Sector A, which has diamonds or grading reports return them International to engage with the Kimberley jurisdiction over gem materials.