The Archaeology of York The Small Finds 17/11 Textile Production at 16–22 Coppergate By Penelope Walton Rogers The Archaeology of York Volume 17: The Small Finds General Editor: P.V. Addyman © York Archaeological Trust for Excavation and Research 1997 First published by Council for British Archaeology Bowes Morrell House 111 Walmgate York YO1 2UA The Archaeology of York Vol. 17: The Small Finds Fasc. 11: Textile Production at 16–22 Coppergate 936.2843 ISBN 1 872414 76 1 Textile Production at 16-22 Coppergate By Penelope Walton Rogers Published for the York Archaeological Trust 1997 by the Council for British Archaeology Contents Introduction....................................................................................................... 1687 The.excavation.at.16-22.Coppergate.by R.A. Hall .........................................1689 The.range.and.quality.of.the.evidence............................................................. 1708. Significance.of.the.collection........................................................................... 1709. The.Processes.of.Textile.Production..................................................................... 1711 Raw.materials.with a contribution by H. K. Kenward ............................................1712 Fibre.preparation........................................................................................... 1719 Spinning........................................................................................................ 1731 Yarn.winding.and.warping.............................................................................. 1749 Weaving......................................................................................................... 1749 Dyes.and.dyeing.with a contribution by A.R. Hall ..........................................1766 Finishing.wool.cloth.with a contribution by A.R. Hall ......................................1771 Finishing.linens.and.laundering...................................................................... 1775 Cutting.and.stitching...................................................................................... 1779 Other.textile.crafts.......................................................................................... 1786. Chronology.and.Distribution............................................................................... 1791 Period.1......................................................................................................... 1791 Period.2......................................................................................................... 1791 Period.3......................................................................................................... 1793 Period.4A...................................................................................................... 1797 Period.4B....................................................................................................... 1797 Period.5A..................................................................................................... .1803 Period.5B....................................................................................................... 1803 Period.5C...................................................................................................... 1809 Textile.equipment.from.other.sites.in.Anglo-Scandinavian.York........................ 1809 Period.6......................................................................................................... 1810. Coppergate.in.a.Wider.Context........................................................................... .1821 Anglo-Saxon.artisans.in.an.Anglo-Scandinavian.town...................................... 1821 Organisation.of.production............................................................................. 1823 Scale.of.production........................................................................................ 1824 Textile.trade.in.the.Anglo-Scandinavian.period................................................ 1825 Craft.specialisation.beginning.in.the.11th.century........................................... 1827 The.wool.trade............................................................................................... 1829 Conclusion.................................................................................................... 1830. Select.Catalogue................................................................................................ .1832 Concordance...................................................................................................... 1844. List of Figures Fig.777. Plan.showing.position.of.(1).16-22.Coppergate;.(2).area.of.Watching . Brief;.(3).5-7.Coppergate;.(4).Lloyds.Bank,.6–8.Pavement; . (5).St.Mary’s,.Castlegate...................................................................... 1688 Fig.778. 16-22.Coppergate,.Roman.structural.remains.sealed.by.clean . grey.loams,.interpreted.as.Anglian.desertion,.with.organic-rich . Anglo-Scandinavian.deposits.above....................................................... 1691. Fig.779. The.Period.4B.post.and.wattle.buildings.on.Tenements.C.and.D . at.the.street.frontage............................................................................. 1692 Fig.780. Clay.hearth.base.with.wooden.surround,.separated.by.an.accumulation . of.deposits.from.an.underlying.hearth.represented.in.the.picture.by . sections.of.its.stone.surround.(Tenement.C)......................................... 1694. Fig.781. Standing.walls.of.Structure.5/6,.Period.5B............................................ 1695. Fig.782. Foundation.for.a.mid.11th.century.building.on.Tenement.D.................. 1696 Fig.783. General.view.of.Anglo-Scandinavian.deposits.showing.degree.of. intercutting.of.pits.and.other.features.................................................... 1697 Fig.784. 12th-12th/13th.century.post.and.wattle.walled.structure.at.rear.of. Tenement.C......................................................................................... 1698 Fig.785. 13th-13th/14th.century.padstone.structure.at.rear.of.Tenement.B, . with.alleyway.along.Tenement.B-C.boundary........................................ 1699 Fig.786. 13th-13th/14th.century.building.foundations.from.Tenement.C . consisting.of.pile.clusters,.cut.by.later.intrusions.................................... 1700 Fig.787 Walls.and.cobble.foundation.capping.of.possibly.13th-13th/14th . century.building.towards.the.front.of.Tenement.D................................. 1700 Fig.788 14th-14th/15th.century.rubble.sill.and.associated.post-holes,.together . with.the.remains.of.an.alleyway,.near.the.rear.of.Tenement.D................. 1701 Fig.789 15th-15th/16th.century.stone.structure.on.Tenement.A,.with.parts . of.its.cobbled.floor.already.removed...................................................... 1702 Fig.790 Plans.of.the.site.at.16-22.Coppergate.showing.the.area.of.deposits . excavated.for.Periods.2-6................................................................... 1704-7 Fig.791 Selection.of.wool.staples.from.Anglo-Scandinavian.levels.at . 16-22.Coppergate................................................................................ 1711 Fig.792 Aries.the.ram.in.the.‘York’.Psalter,.written.and.illustrated.in.northern . England.c.1170..The.pointed.wool.staples.suggest.hairy.wool.of.the . sort.found.at.Anglo-Scandinavian.Coppergate....................................... 1713 Fig.793 Wooden.pins.used.to.fasten.bales.of.wool,.6659-61,.6657-8,.6656......... 1716 Fig.794 The.tools.of.the.medieval.packman.in.a.panel.of.15th.century.stained . glass.at.St.Martin’s.Church,.Bowness-upon-.Windermere,.Cumbria....... 1717 Fig.795 Binding.plate.2272.and.wool-comb.2273.............................................. 1721. Fig.796 Combing.wool.with.one.comb.mounted.in.a.stock................................. 1722 Fig.797 Combing.wool.with.a.comb.in.either.hand............................................ 1723 Fig.798 Wooden.tools.for.flax-processing:.ripple,.6641;.pounders, 6642 and 6643;.and.scutching.blade,.6644..................................................... 1724 Fig.799 Engraving.by.William.Hincks,.1783,.‘representing.the . common.Method.of.Beetling,.Scutching.and.Hackling.the.Flax’............ 1726 Fig.800 Iron.spikes.from.the.wool-comb,.2273,.compared.with.other.probable . wool-comb.spikes:.two.spikes.from.2273; 2342, 2358, 2281,2343, 2299.and.6601..................................................................................... .1728. Fig.801. Iron.spikes,.possibly.from.flax.heckles,.2364, 2415, 2416, 2433,2301, 2278,2421 and.2307 ........................................................................1728. Fig.802. Longer.iron.spikes.from.medieval.deposits.(Period.6), 6598,.6603, 6600, 6605, 6602, 6604, 6606-7 and.6599............................................... 1729 Fig.803. Change.of.length.in.iron.spikes.with.rounded.and.rounded . rectangular.cross-section.through.time................................................. .1730 Fig.804 Wooden.spindles.and.distaff:.spindles,.6646-9,.6697;.and.distaff.6645... .1734 Fig.805. Changes.in.stone.spindle.whorls.over.the.9th.to.14th.centuries.............. 1737 Fig.806 Stone.spindle.whorls:.form.AI,.6536-42;.form.A2,.6545-50 .................... 1738. Fig.807 Stone.spindle.whorls:.form.B,.6554-6, 6558-9, 6562-3;.and.form . C,.6569-70, 6572-5, 6577...................................................................... 1739 Fig.808. Decorated.stone.spindle.whorls,.6543-4, 6551-2, 6557, 6560-1, 6565-8, 6571.(painted),.6576,