Making of the Transformable Necklace with positioning of the 9.03-carat cabochon-cut Padparadscha sapphire; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet. www.chaumet.com The January rendezvous for haute couture and high jewellery is always an interesting prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can- not report any particular trend in the recent presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close or open a new chapter, while all kept con- tributing to their legacy one jewel at a time. We saw DIOR offer a third and final episode in the detailed voyage into Versailles, this time with stories of hidden doorways and ghosts in Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes, while CHAUMET opened their own tril- ogy, Les Mondes de CHAUMET, with a Padparadscha sapphire romance, a Russian reverie, the first chapter of three creative voyages (the next one in June in Tokyo, and the last in July in Paris). CHANEL never has to go too far to find inspiration as delving into the past of its founder always provides a successful outcome. The new collection has many cheering with pleasure as the lion emblem makes a strong return, re-invented with unconventional gemstones such as he- liodor and imperial topaz. CHOPARD add- ed more enchanting, heavy carat weight, numbers to their growing Precious Chopard collection. Cascading rivières of diamonds Work on the oval-cut diamonds for the bezels on the Commanding Necklace from the L’ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry, in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris. www.chanel.com and emeralds, a fabulous sapphire-paved watch… less is more does not always apply. ALEXANDRE REZA as always previewed de- sirable and occasionally jaw dropping nov- elties (as much for the exceptional untreat- ed stones as for the designs) whilst DAVID MORRIS focused on one of their signa- ture styles with a retrospective of chande- lier and shoulder duster earrings all fit for a queen. SUZANNE SYZ was once again a joy to meet, with great novelties especially in the coloured gemstone area. At MARTIN KATZ, the A-listers’ go-to American design- er organised a more discreet event, where a display of some of his iconic and new cre- ations was organised. Elegance and chic prevailed. It was a entirely more exotic af- fair at Lydia Courteille with an immersion into South American ancient cultures and homage to the pink stone rhodochrosite or Rosa del Inca. Last but not least, in stark contrast with the previous show, DAUPHIN unveiled yet again ‘architectural with a twist’ new pieces with the Fluid Captured collec- tion. So fasten your seatbelt and delve into this fresh review. www.dior.com Volupté Béryl Vert Ring (closed and opened) in 18K pink gold, set with diamonds and green beryl, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA. 2018 is the 20th anniversary of Victoire de Castellane at Dior and by default the 20th an- niversary of Dior Joaillerie, which she launched and embodies. A milestone indeed. The house must have something big in store to cele- brate this anniversary, so it was a fitting time to close the Versailles journey, which has con- secutively instigated three ground-breaking collections: Dior à Versailles, Dior à Versailles, côté jardins, and now Dior à Versailles, pièces secrètes. The latter and final chapter closes a door, but opens many others since it focus- es on jewellery pieces with secret openings. The inspiration is evidently to be found in the many doorways, secret boudoirs and hidden www.dior.com Intimité Tanzanite Earrings in 18K pink gold, set with diamonds and tanzanites, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA. corridors at Versailles castle and de Castellane has again excelled at integrating these fasci- nating, yet romantic concepts in the jewels. The top of rings and pendants slide open, a ti- ny knob opens a side drawer, each time to re- veal either a micro-paved ghost-like portrait or a hidden ornate cavity. Modern jewellery that Vanité Rubellite Necklace in 18K white and pink gold, set transports you to a court filled with intrigues, with diamonds, rubellite and plots and secret affairs. grey spinels, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA. www.dior.com Cachette Diamant Ring (closed and opened) in 18K yellow gold, set with diamonds, yellow diamonds, pink sapphires and lacquer, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA. Vanité Émeraude Necklace in 18K yellow gold and white gold, set with diamonds, emerald and colour change garnets, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA. Cachette Tiroir Opale Claire Ring in 18K yellow and pink gold, set with diamonds and light opal, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA. www.chaumet.com Transformable Necklace in 18K white and pink gold, set with a pear- shaped “sunset colour” Padparadscha sapphire weighing 16.31 carats from Ceylon, a cabochon-cut Padparadscha sapphire weighing 9.03 carats from Ceylon, an oval-cut D VVS1 diamond weighing 1.13 carats, a brilliant- cut D VVS2 diamond weighing 0.45 carat, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet.. POA. While Dior Joaillerie has closed a chapter, Chaumet has just opened one of a trilogy named Les Mondes de Chaumet, a journey into three geographical and cultural locations (described as “distant lands and faraway hori- zons”) that resonate heavily with Chaumet’s own histo- ry. This first episode titled Promenades Impériales pays tribute to the “beauty of a Siberian winter”, and by ex- tension to Chaumet’s historical links with Russia. The ornate fan-shaped design of the traditional headdress kokoshnik is the starting point of a beautiful suite with a lace-like design of fil couteau-set white diamonds and either a Padparadscha or blue sapphire as a one-off co- lour touch. It is absolutely light and delicate, while the pièce de résistance, the neckpiece, is a transformable wonder. All-white-diamond earrings and a ring complete the eleven-piece mini collection, which augurs well for the following chapters in June and then July. www.chaumet.com Bracelet in 18K white and pink gold, set with an oval-cut Padparadscha sapphire weighing 7.07 carats from Ceylon, Ring in 18K white and pink gold, set with a marquise-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds; cushion-cut “sunset colour” Padparadscha Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de sapphire weighing 3.11 carats from Ceylon, Chaumet POA. and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet POA. Earrings in 18K white and pink gold, set with an oval-cut Padparadscha sapphire weighing 1.71 carats from Madagascar, an oval-cut Padparadscha sapphire weighing 1.52 carats from Ceylon, brilliant-cut E VVS2 diamonds weighing 0.57 carat each, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet. POA. www.chaumet.com Brooch in 18K white gold, set with a cushion-cut sapphire weighing 2.45 carats from Ceylon, a brilliant-cut D VVS2 Earrings in 18K white gold, set with diamond weighing 0.70 carat, brilliant-cut E VVS2 diamonds weighing and marquise and brilliant- 1.03 carats, 1.02 carats and 0.74 carat, a cut diamonds; Promenades brilliant-cut E VVS1 diamond weighing Impériales, Les Mondes de 0.73 carat, and marquise and brilliant- Chaumet POA. cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet POA. Ring in 18K white gold, set Ring in 18K white gold, set with an oval-cut E VVS1 with an oval-cut sapphire diamond weighing 5.82 weighing 5.08 carats from carats, and marquise and Ceylon, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet. POA. Mondes de Chaumet. POA. www.chanel.com Passionate Cuff in 18K yellow gold set with one orange topaz, 1 round cut diamond and brilliant cut diamonds; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA. Following a first appearance in 2012 in the world of CHANEL High Jewellery, then in 2013 in Sous le Signe Du Lion a full collection celebrating Gabrielle Chanel’s zodiac sign and beloved city of Venice, now in 2018 we see again the king of the animal kingdom in all its splendour and pow- erful demeanour. L’Esprit du Lion offers 53 cre- ations, all inspired by the lion sculptures found in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris. Carved in gilt bronze or marble and perched on a table, or in sculpted wood seated on the ledge of a fireplace, the lion always has his paw resting on an orb, the world. In this new collection, a magnificent clock pays homage to these objets d’art, while the jewellery creations go beyond. Chains are paired with a lion silhou- ette or face to underline its power and empha- size its authority. The pieces are crafted in yellow or white gold, with diamonds, sapphires, yellow beryls (heliodor) and imperial topazes: a colour scheme that evokes a lion’s mane and coat. www.chanel.com Eternal Brooch in 18K white gold set with 423 diamonds for a total weight of 26.23 carats; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA. Legendary Transformable Necklace in 18K white and yellow gold set with more than 1200 diamonds and 1 cushion-cut fancy intense yellow diamond of 30.19 carats; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA. Timeless Earrings in 18K white gold set with 2 pear-cut diamonds for a total weight of 1.4 carats and 754 brilliant-cut diamonds; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry.