İSTANBUL TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY AN INVESTIGATION ON THE MECHANIC AND PERFORMANCE ANALYSIS OF WOVEN FABRICS BY USING OBJECTIVE EVALUATION TECHNIQUES Master Thesis by Özge TOKMAK Department : Textile Engineering Programme: Textile Engineering Supervisor : Assoc. Prof. Dr. Ömer Berk BERKALP JANUARY 2008 İSTANBUL TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY AN INVESTIGATION ON THE MECHANIC AND PERFORMANCE ANALYSIS OF WOVEN FABRICS BY USING OBJECTIVE EVALUATION TECHNIQUES M.Sc. Thesis by Özge TOKMAK (503051817) Date of submission : 24 December 2007 Date of defence examination: 28 January 2008 Supervisor (Chairman): Assoc. Prof. Dr. Ömer Berk BERKALP Members of the Examining Committee Assoc. Prof. Dr. Banu Uygun NERG İS ( İTU) Asist. Prof.Dr. Ayhan KURAL ( İTÜ) JANUARY 2008 İSTANBUL TEKN İK ÜN İVERS İTES İ FEN B İLİMLER İ ENST İTÜSÜ DOKUMA KUMA Ş PERFORMANS VE MEKAN İK ÖZELL İKLER İNİN OBJEKT İF ÖLÇÜM TEKN İKLER İ KULLANILARAK ANAL İZİ VE İNCELENMES İ YÜKSEK L İSANS TEZ İ Özge TOKMAK (503051817) Tezin Enstitüye Verildi ği Tarih : 24 Aralık 2007 Tezin Savunuldu ğu Tarih : 28 Ocak 2008 Tez Danı şmanı : Doç.Dr. Ömer Berk BERKALP Di ğer Jüri Üyeleri Doç.Dr. Banu Uygun NERG İS ( İ.T.Ü) Yar.Doç.Dr. Ayhan KURAL ( İ.T.Ü.) OCAK 2008 FOREWORD I wish to express my sincere thanks to my supervisor Assoc.Prof.Dr.Ömer Berk BERKALP for his encouragement, support, patience and guidance in this long term of my study, and for encouraging me to go to abroad for my study. I would like to thank to my family, my mother and father, who always supported and believed in me, and especially to my sister for her continuous support and encouragement. I also would like to thank my friend Erman TURK İLİ, who always believed in me more than myself, and supported my study. I wish to express my sincere thanks to Prof.Dr. Jelka GERSAK, who helped me in the period of studying in Slovenia. January, 2008 Özge TOKMAK iii LIST OF CONTENTS ABBREVIATIONS vi LIST OF TABLES vii LIST OF FIGURES viii LIST OF SYMBOLS ix ÖZET x SUMMARY xi 1. INTRODUCTION 1 2. AN OVERWIEV OF FABRIC OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENT SYSTEM 9 2.1. The Need For Objective Measurement Technology 9 2.2. The Development of Objective Evaluation System 12 2.2.1. Fabric Handle and Subjective Evaluation System 12 2.2.2. Standardization of Fabric Handle 14 2.3. The Measurement Techniques For Fabrics 19 2.3.1. General Methods 19 2.3.2. Fabric Objective Evaluation Techniques 20 2.3.2.1. Kawabata Evaluation System For Fabrics 24 2.3.2.2. The FAST System 27 2.3.2.3. The Comparison of KES-F System and FAST System 32 3. PREVIOUS STUDIES 34 4. EXPERIMENTAL 49 4.1. Physical Tests 49 4.2. Raw Materials .49 4.3. Calculated Parameters 49 4.3.1. Weave Factor and Yarn Diameter 51 4.3.1.1. Yarn Diameter 51 4.3.1.2. Weave Factor 53 4.3.2. Maximum Construction Theories 54 4.3.2.1. Ashenhurst's Theory of End Plus Intersections 54 4.3.2.2. Ashenhurst's Curvature Theory 55 4.3.2.3. Brierley's Theory of Empirical Maximum Weaveability 55 4.3.3. Tightness 55 iv 4.3.3.1. Russell's Tightness 56 4.3.3.2. Galuszynski's Tightness 56 4.3.3.3. Seyam and El-Shiekh's Tightness 57 4.3.4. Cover Factor 57 4.4. Fabric Mechanical Properties 58 4.4.1. Kawabata Evaluation System For Fabrics 58 4.4.2. The FAST System 61 4.5. Fabric Drape 64 4.6. T-Tests 67 5. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 71 5.1. Results of T-Tests 71 5.1.1. T-Test for Drape Ratio 71 5.1.1.1. Effect of Weave on Fabric Drape 71 5.1.1.2. Effect of Yarn Count on Fabric Drape 72 5.1.1.3. Effect of Material on Fabric Drape 71 5.1.2. T-Test for Bending Rigidity 73 5.1.2.1. Effect of Weave on Bending 73 5.1.2.2. Effect of Yarn Count on Bending 73 5.1.2.3. Effect of Material on Bending 73 5.1.3. T-Test for Shear Rigidity 74 5.1.3.1. Effect of Weave on Shear 74 5.1.3.2. Effect of Yarn Count on Shear 74 5.1.3.3. Effect of Material on Shear 74 5.2. The Comparison between FAST and KES-F Parameters 75 5.3. The Comparison of Drape Coefficient with FAST and KES-F Bending and Shear Properties 76 5.3.1. The Correlation between Drape Ratio and, FAST Bending and Shear Properties 77 5.3.2. The Correlation between Drape Ratio and, KES-F Bending and Shear Properties 78 5.4. Formulation of total Hand Value 79 6. CONCLUSIONS 81 REFERENCES 83 APPENDIX 89 v ABBREVIATIONS HESC : Hand Evaluation and Standardization Committee FAST : Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing KES-F : Kawabata Evaluation System For Fabrics HV : Hand Value THV : Total Hand Value TAV : Total Appearance Value BS : British Standards AATCC : American Society for Testing and Materials ASTM : American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists ISO : International Standardization Organization TS : Turkish Standards R.S. : Relaxation Shrinkage H.E. : Hygral Expansion B.R. : Bending Rigidity B.L. : Bending Length W : Weight S.R. : Shear Rigidity B.E. : Bias Extension S.T. : Surface Thickness F : Formability vi LIST OF TABLES Page No Table 1.1 Exportation of Woven Fabrics of Turkey in the First Period of 2006-2007 ………………………………………………………… 7 Table 1.2 The Exportation Amount, Cost and Variance of Woven Fabrics of Turkey in the First Period of 2006-2007………………………….. 8 Table 2.1 The Definitions of Primary Hand Expressions……………………. 16 Table 2.2 Hand Value of the Primary Hand…………………………………. 17 Table 2.3 Total Hand Value…………………………………………………. 18 Table 2.4 Summary of Test Methods for Objectively Measurable Parameters Associated with Fabric Hand…………………………. 21 Table 2.5 Objectively Measurable Physical Properties Associated with Attribute Descriptors Commonly Used in Subjective Fabric Evaluations………………………………………………………... 22 Table 2.6 The Parameters Measured on the KES-F System………………… 28 Table 2.7 The Parameters Measured on the FAST System………………….. 33 Table 4.1 The Materials, Yarn Numbers, Fineness, Twist Levels, Weave Designs, and Weights of the Fabrics Used………………………... 50 Table 4.2 Yarn Densities, Yarn Crimps, Tearing, and Strength of the Fabrics Used……………………………………………………………….. 51 Table 4.3 Fiber Density……………………………………………………… 52 Table 4.4 Packing Factors for Different Yarn Types………………………... 52 Table 4.5 Weave Factors of Basic Weaves………………………………….. 54 Table 4.6 Values of m for Different Weave Types………………………….. 55 Table 4.7 The Calculated Parameters of the Study …………………………. 59 Table 4.8 The Results of KES-F System…………………………………….. 63 Table 4.9 The Results of FAST System……………………………………... 64 Table 4.10 The Results of Cusick’s Drape Meter…………………………….. 66 vii LIST OF FIGURES Page No Figure 1.1 : The Basic Structure of Woven Fabrics…................................... 4 Figure 2.1 : The Relationship Between Hand Values and Physical Properties………………………………………………………. 13 Figure 2.2 : The Sequence of Judgement of Fabric Handle by Experts……. 15 Figure 2.3 : The Objective System of Evaluation of Fabric Handle……….. 18 Figure 4.1 : KES-FB1 Tensile and Shearing Tester………………………... 60 Figure 4.2. : KES-FB2 Pure Bending Tester………………………………... 60 Figure 4.3. : KES-FB3 Compression Tester………………………………… 61 Figure 4.4. : KES-FB4 Surface Analyzing Tester…………………………… 61 Figure 4.5. : FAST-1 Compression Meter…………………………………… 62 Figure 4.6. : FAST-2 Bending Meter……………………………………….. 62 Figure 4.7. : Cusick’s Drape Meter…………………………………………. 65 Figure 4.8. : The Operating Principle of Cusik’s Drape Meter……………... 66 Figure 5.1. : The Comparison of FAST and KES-F Shear and Compression Values………………………………………………………….. 75 Figure 5.2. : The Comparison of FAST and KES-F Extension and Bending Values………………………………………………………….. 75 Figure 5.3. : The Comparison between Drape Ratio and, FAST Bending and Shear Values………………………………………………. 77 Figure 5.4. : The Comparison between Drape Ratio and, KES-F Bending and Shear Values………………………………………………. 77 Figure 5.5. : The Relationship between Bending and Shear Pro perties Measured with FAST and KES-F, and Drape Ratio 78 viii LIST OF SYMBOLS d : Yarn diameter : N t Yarn linear density ϕ : Yarn packing factor : ρ f Fiber density : ρ f Average fiber density : ρi Weight fraction of the ith component : ρ fi Fiber density of the ith component : M 1 , M 2 Warp and weft weave factors : N1 , N 2 Numbers of warp ends and filling treads per weave repeat : i1 ,i2 Numbers of filling and warp intersections per weave repeat : t1max ,t2 max Maximum numbers of warp ends and picks per unit area : d1 ,d 2 Warp and weft treads diameters m : A constant dependent on the weave type : C f Construction factor : T f Tightness factor : c1 ,c2 Warp and weft cover factors : S1 , S2 Warp and weft density ix ÖZET Bu çalı şmada, dokuma kuma şların performans ve mekanik özellikleri, objektif kuma ş ölçüm teknikleriyle elde edilerek, analiz edilmi ştir. Objektif ölçüm sistemi, özellikle yün kuma ş endüstrisi için önemli bir sistemdir. Bu sistem yeni kuma şların geli ştirilmesinde, üretim öncesi tasarımında ve kuma ş proses i şlemlerinden önce zorlukların tespit edilerek proses i şlemlerinden önce bu zorlukların giderilerek daha dikkat edilmesini sa ğlar. Kuma şların dü şük gerilim altındaki mekanik özelliklerin ölçülmesinde kullanılan iki sistem vardır. Bunlar KES-F ve FAST sistemleridir. FAST sistemi yünlü kuma ş endüstrisinde kullanılmasına ra ğmen, KES-F sistemi sadece laboratuar çalı şmalarında kullanılmaktadır. Cusick Dökümlülük Test Cihazı da bu çalı şmada kuma ş dökümlülü ğün ölçümünde kullanılmı ştır. Bu çalı şmanın amacı, yün ve yün karımı kuma şların mekanik ve performans özelliklerinin objektif ölçüm sistemleriyle analiz edilesi, ve bu kuma şların fiziksel ve mekanik özellikleri arasında güvenilir bir ili şki kuma ara ştırmasıdır.