Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY fTT' u OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES !H': MBRARt CALIFORNIA UNIVEIIS: lY OF U)S AMGELES TRAVELS CIRCASSIA, KRIM TARTARY, SfC. IN 183G. VOL. I. : LONDON Printed by Maurice, Clark, and Co., Fenchurch-street. TRAVELS CIRCASSIA,IN KRIM TARTARY, Sfc. INCLUDING A STEAM VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE, FROM VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE AND ROUND THE BLACK SEA, IN 1836. By EDMUND SPENCER, Esq. Author of " Sketches of Germany and the Hermans," ^c. \4mw>- A TURKISH FAMILY PICTURE. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1837. SI I CIS7 INTRODUCTION The commercial and political interest with which the events of the last few years, —nay months, have invested those countries that formed the theatre of my wanderings, at once excites the confidence of an author, and depresses hope. It excites confidence, inasmuch as he feels secure that the fruits of his labours will command the attention of an enlightened public for the sake of the subject, and the anxiety felt to become acquainted with countries so little known : it de- presses hope, by the apprehension that the search- ing glance of criticism may discover inaccuracies which, but for the interest so generally excited, would probably have remained unobserved. a 2 1059607 VI INTRODUCTION. However, as the results of my observations at home and abroad have been more than once successful beyond my most sanguine expectations, although labouring under the disadvantage of being anonymous, I the less diffidently submit my present work to plead its cause at the bar of public opinion. Without any intention of depriving criticism of its rights, perhaps I may be allowed to state, as an extenuation of whatever errors may be found in the style of my narrative, that the short space of time which has elapsed since my return to England, has been insufficient to allow of my bestowing that attention on its composition which the public have a right to expect. To this I may add, that the whole of these letters were written hastily, in lands far removed from any facilities for literary composition, and too frequently under circumstances highly unfavourable to intellectual labour ; for, not to mention that I had to contend against the insalubrity of climate, I was repeat- edly exposed to pestilence, war, and to the jea- INTRODUCTION. Vll lousy and suspicion of the half-civilized inhabi- tants of the countries I was exploring. In one respect I was indeed peculiarly fortu- nate, —in my foreign recommendations, which led to the formation of friendships with many intelli- gent men, to whom I owe a variety of information respecting the countries I traversed, together with every courtesy that could possibly be rendered to a stranger ; and perhaps to none have I been more deeply indebted than to Count Worrenzow, the enlightened governor-general of New Rus- sia. That excellent nobleman not only facilitated my excursions through the interior of the immense countries over which he exercises almost sove- reign authority, but in the kindest manner invited me to accompany him on his coasting expedition round the Black Sea, thus affording me an opportunity of visiting the whole of the Russian ports and settlements on the coast of Krim-Tar- tary, Circassia, and Mingrelia; settlements which had been hitherto sealed against the intrusion of a stranger. While acknowledging the obligations I owe Vlll INTRODUCTION. to my foreign friends, I must not omit adverting to those gentlemen at Constantinople who broke through their religious prejudices, and received me with a kind hospitality, which those travellers who have sojourned in a land where they have been strangers to its customs, and above all to its faith, will know how to appreciate. In describing my visit to the Russian posses- sions on the Black Sea; in referring to the actual state of Circassia, the desolating war carried on in that country, and other circumstances con- nected with the policy of the Russian govern- ment, — I have been placed in the disagreeable position, either of sacrificing my regard to truth, or, out of courtesy to my Russian friends, of flinging over objects that passed beneath my observation the veil of misrepresentation. But were I to delineate them otherwise than I have done, I should subject myself to the stigma of being branded by my compatriots as a Russian hireling,—not to mention how deeply I should compromise my own character as an independent writer, a character so generously attributed to INTRODUCTION. IX me by my critical contemporaries. Apart, how- ever, from personal considerations, the claims of humanity would be sacrificed, which demand the exposure of the policy pursued by Russia towards the unfortunate inhabitants of the Wes- tern Caucasus,—a policy alike detrimental to the interests of Great Britain, and dangerous to the repose of Europe. On the other hand, let it not be supposed that I have allowed prejudice to guide my pen, or that my representations have been influenced by the recent insult to the flag of my country in the capture of the Viren; for nearly the whole of these letters were written and sent to England previously to that event, being then intended to meet the public eye through the medium of a periodical publication ; but, owing to the various delays arising from quarantine regulations, &c., the original plan was abandoned. With respect to my descriptions of the for- tresses belonging to Russia in Circassia, and my observations on her self-assumed right to that country, I challenge the strictest examination as to their correctness, being perfectly conscious INTRODUCTION. that they will subject me to the hostility of the hirelino^ press on the Continent ; and also to that of some persons who may differ from me in opinion in my own country. The information upon which my remarks are grounded has been partly gleaned from works published under the sanction of the Russian government, partly from some of the most intelligent Turks at Constan- tinople, from my own observations during my visit to the Russian fortresses in Circassia, and my excursions through the interior of that country. Those among my readers who may be ac- quainted with the undue influence exercised by Russia over the subjects of the Ottoman Empire, and the active malignity with which that power pursues every person who may endeavour to promote any measure inimical to her policy, will do justice to the motive which has induced me to suppress the names of those individuals to whom I was indebted for information, however anxious 1 might be to acknowledge my obligations to their friendship. But though we may regret, we cannot INTRODUCTION. XI feel surprised at the domination assumed by Rus- sia over the councils of her feeble neighbours, when we remember the inertness exhibited in the policy of the European powers. Neither can we marvel at her audacity in throwing down the gauntlet of defiance at the feet of Great Britain, by the capture of one of her merchantmen while in the act of trading with the independent tribes of Circassia ; an act which has afforded a striking illustration of the truth that nations in this respect are like private individuals, —the man who has once received an insult without resenting it, will certainly be exposed to a repetition of the offence. We may be indignant at the present moment on account of the seizure of the Viven, but let it be remembered that this is not the only instance within the last few years in which Russia has insulted the British flag. The first occurred in 1835, when the Lord Charles Spencer, a trading vessel bound for a port in the Euxine, being driven by contrary winds on the Circassian coast, was taken by a Russian cruiser, and subjected to a series of degrading humiliations similar to Xll INTRODUCTION those which have been recently inflicted upon the Vixen. This circumstance I have frequently heard referred to by the Russians exultingly, and by the Turks with astonishment, united with no very flattering animadversions upon the pusillani- mity of our national policy. But though I heard this, I certainly never heard that our government had noticed the offonce with that indignation the subject demanded. Every Briton undoubtedly has a right to be proud of his country ; and I believe there is not one from " Land's End to Johnny Groats' house,'* be he Whig, Tory, or Radical, who would not consider the insult to the flag of his country as his own personal quarrel, and resent it to the death. I am no advocate for war, but the prece- dent is bad, and such an instance of wanton hos- tility as the seizure of our merchantmen on the high seas, should not be lightly passed over. Those who are unacquainted with our resources, will ascribe this forbearance to weakness ; whereas, every man conversant with the comparative strength of England and Russia, must acknow- INTRODUCTION. Xlll ledge that we are amply provided with the means of crushing the insolent power that has dared to outraofe our national honour. My animadversions upon the policy of Russia have been written more in regret than anger ; and my observations upon the pacific policy pur- sued by our government, are not intended to insinuate either want of skill in steering the helm of the state, or a determination to guard our national honour, and protect our commerce; for when the difficulties interposed by a power- ful opposition are considered, together with the visionary views and ill-judged parsimony of a numerous party, which has led to the reduction of our naval force, it must in candour be admitted that it is not easy, at the present moment, for any minister, however patriotic, to conciliate public opinion and at the same time support the dignity of the country.