MUODIN HISTORIA 2020 / 2 Oscar Schlemmer, Bauhaus The chambre syndicale de la haute couture ( est. 1868) is defined as "the regulating commission that determines which fashion houses are eligible to be true haute couture houses”. Dior ateljé Heinrich Lossow; Marie Antoinette Rose Bertin 1747-1813 Charles Frederik Worth (1825-1895) Elizabeth of Austria Keisarinna Eugenie - “I act on impulse and believe in instinct. My dresses are not premeditated. I am carried away by feeling, and technical knowledge helps me make it a reality.” Jeanne Lanvin 1867-1946 Photo: Laure Albin Guillot Alber Elbaz La Belle Epoque 1871 -1914 A period characterized by optimism, regional peace, economic prosperity, an apex of colonial empires and technological, scientific and cultural innovations. In the climate of the period, especially in Paris, the arts flourished. Paul Poiret 1879-1944) Jacqueline Logan in Paul Poiret 1925 Peggy Guggenheim in Paul Poiret By Man Ray Denise Poiret Lampshade dress Thousand and Second Nights Rosine Poiret Paul Poiret x Raoul Dufy Ballet Russes - http://www.nga.gov/content/ngaweb/audio-video/video/diaghilev.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBlzeehZIeE&feature=youtu.be https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WfAmL-dIBQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_Z4YHJZD_U Ballets Russes AVANT-GARDE the advance group in any field, especially in the visual, literary, or musical arts, whose works are characterized chiefly by unorthodox and experimental methods. “pure psychic automatism, by which is intended to express, verbally, in writing, or by other means, the real process of thought. Thought’s dictation, in absence of all control exercised by the reason and outside all aesthetic or moral preoccupation.” Andre Breton by Man Ray Cecil Beaton, 1937; Charles Henri Ford in a costume by Salvador Dali Man Ray,handspaintedbyPicasso Rene Magritte Dress was clearly becoming also a subject in experimental art. SUBVERSION of the ideal body, documenting alternative ways of being. Brassaï, Une Costume Pour Deux, 1931 Claude Cahun, 1927 Elsa Schiaparelli 1890-1973 Marchesa Luisa Cassati tear dress Skeleton dress Brooch by Jean Cocteau for Schiaparelli Irving Penn for Schiaparelli Margiela Coco Chanel 1883-1971 Jean Patou 1880-1936 Bauhaus Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) Sophie Taeuber-Arp (1889-1943) Isadora Duncan Halston for Martha Graham Jean-Paul Gaultier for Facade Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975) George Hoyningen-Huené for Vionnet, 1931 Vionnet s/s 14 by Jean Paul Goude.