Pub. No. 346-005 September 1981 SEWING .FOR VlVfUN Virginia Cooperative Extension Service Extension Division Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University Blacksburg, Virginia 24061 4-H Clothing Construction t..D 5lt55 A1ll~ 4-H CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION SKILLS CHECKLIST SEWING FOR FUN 3 no. 3'1-~·00':> vPt Skills r 1Skills - -- -- SptV' To Learn New To Learn New Skills or , Skills I I Skills or Skills I Know ImprovelLearned I I Know lmpr~ve Learned Sewing Machine, be able to r-- Adjust upper tension -- Make gathers and ruffles I Adjust presser foot pressure I Apply yokes I Recognize and use special I Attach waistband stitches if machine is this type: Attach patch pockets stretch stitches ~ Apply invisible zipper blind hem I I Construct belts and belt loops multiple zigzag I Topstitch decorative and other Use hem variations: machine Clean and oil machine, if blind hem necessary l__ - narrow machine stitched hem Fabric Knowledge, recognize hemming stitch by hand Fiber content and characteristics Apply trim Textures - plain, satin, twill Use self-bias weaves Make pants: measure and fit Good fabric choice for pattern reinforce crotch seam Notions and trims needed apply fly zippe~ Differences between sewing with knits and wovens use front placket Construction, be able to Sew stretchy knits: construct seams with stretch Pretreat fabric and notions 1----+---·--~ ~ --- -- construct seams for stability Fit by making minor pattern (taping) adjustment apply ribbing Staystitch with grain of fabric stitch in the ditch Use interfacing: woven Apply fasteners: decorative snaps non-woven nylon hook and loop tape knit Press as you sew Use different seam constructions: plain Final press flat felled Care trench Sew in care label l stretch stitch Repair seams, hems, replace missing fasteners Use seam finishes: plain I zigzag Sort clothes for laundry _l_ _ __.______, clean finish Operate washer and dryer l _ (such Trim and grade bulk Additional Skills learned as interfacing types, seam con­ Understitch struction, seam finishes, hem Clip and notch curved seams variations. application of Stitch in the ditch fasteners, other skills) list: Set-in sleeves Reinforce sleeve seam Apply cuffs Make sleeve plackets Attach collars point turning understitching NOTE: Why not "polish off" your sewing skills and develop new ones by constructing more sewing projects than are suggested for Project Requirements? SEWING FOR FUN 3 PROJECT REQUIREMENTS Adapted by Beatrice Kalka, Extension Clothing To complete Sewing for Fun 3 you should: and Textiles Specialist. • Be able to check off 50 of the 64 skills listed on the 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Check­ list, (see Inside Front Cover). WHAT YOU'LL DO IN THIS PROJECT • Make at least two different garments for yourself. You may make something from the So far you have worked with the sewing suggested list in Sewing for Fun 2 or you may machine, fabric, and patterns. You have made at select a garment from this list: least two different articles of clothing for Lounging and bedtime clothes such as yourself. Now it's time to learn other basic con­ pajamas, gowns, robes, caftans struction skills before you advance to a special in­ Pants or shorts terest project. In this project you will learn: Knit garments such as tops, shirts, jumpers, dresses • How to take care of the sewing machine. • About planning your wardrobe. You can make anything that will help you learn • About selecting a pattern and fabric with line, and practice the listed skills. Remember to try color, and design in mind. something new. • How to make simple pattern adjustments. • New construction skills with: PLANNING YOUR PROJECT set-in sleeves pants collars knit fabrics What Clothes Do You Have Now? gathers and ruffles belts waistbands topstitching Before you decide what to make, take a good yokes zippers look in your closet and drawers. See what you pockets trims already have that fits and is in good wearing con­ dition. • About shopping decisions for ready-to-wear clothes. What Are Your Activities? • More about grooming. • More about clothing care and laundering. Some activities need special clothing. For exam­ ple, football players and cheerleaders wear Continue to keep 4-H records using the Clothing special uniforms. Think about your activities and Construction Record, Pub. 346-002. Share what what clothes you already have for: you are learning with others by giving a demon­ stration, exhibiting at the fair, and modeling in • School. the fashion revue. Write down what you hope to • Relaxing or watching TV. learn and what you plan to make in your 4-H • Church. record book. • Parties or other dress-up occasions. Use this booklet to guide you as you continue to • Sports such as bike riding, swimming, playing develop new skills. Select the fabric and pattern tennis, baseball, etc. for your project after you consider the informa­ tion about wardrobe planning, color, line, and Make a List of Your Needs design. As you sew, continue to check the stan­ dards listed in sewing basics. Now make a list of your clothing needs. Use it as your guide when selecting a pattern or buying When vertical lines are used in clothing, the eye ready-to-wear clothing. This is the beginning travels vertically over the figure giving the im­ step in wardrobe planning. pression of greater height. In these dresses, the vertical lines give the impression of different Look at Yourself heights because the horizontal line stops the eye, the arrow sends the eye down again, and the Y Whether you are planning to make or buy continues to draw the eye upward. clothing, you will want clothing that looks good on you. Look at yourself in the mirror. You will see some things you cannot change. They are: • Height. • Build or bone structure. • Skin coloring. • Other physical features. It is possible to change other parts of your ap­ The three rectangles are the same size. The far­ pearance: ther apart the vertical lines, the greater the feel­ ing of width. • Weight. • Hair style. • Length of nails. • Skin condition. Know what your physical traits are. As you plan your clothing, select styles, designs, and colors that will accentuate your good features. Compare the feeling of width in these dresses. Now, let's find out more about those lines, designs, and colors. LINES AND YOU Lines can play tricks. These tricks are called op­ tical illusions. Vertical lines slenderize and lengthen. They carry the eye up and down. These vertical lines are all Horizontal spacing places emphasis on different the same length; they appear to be different parts of the body. because of the lines that intersect them. 2 In these garments, the bust, waist, and hips are Intensity or chroma means how bright or dull a accented with the use of a horizontal seamline. color is. Colors are often classified as being warm or cool. Red and yellow are warm colors. Their brightness makes garments seem closer and therefore larger. Colors with blue in them are classed as cool. They appear further away and smaller. Learn how to use warm and cool colors to your advantage. When you select colors for yourself, think about Vertical and horizontal lines combined create dif­ your hair, eyes, and skin. Some skin colors have ferent effects. All these vertical lines are the a pink or blue undertone; some have a yellow same length. You will see that the unbroken lines undertone. Your leader can help you decide look longer. Several horizontal lines reduce what your skin undertones are. height. They also clutter the effect of a garment. Width at the hemline will reduce height. Most colors are a blend of severai different hues. For example, there are many shades of green in­ cluding blue-greens and yellow-greens. The green with a hint of blue may be attractive on a person with a pink or blue skin undertone; the yellow-green may complement the skin with a yellow undertone. Both skin color types can wear green, but the shade may be different. One way to find your best colors is to hold them up to your face. Does your face disappear and Diagonal and curved lines can create more in­ fade away or does it seem to sparkle and stand terest in the design. out against the color? The best color for you is one that compliments and lets the real "you" All lines affect your figure and how your clothes shine through. look on you. Use the design lines to emphasize your best features and camouflage others. Both *ACTION IDEA. Make a color aid to use when the silhouette of a garment and its inner design you shop. Match your skin, hair, and eyes with lines are important. The silhouette lines create swatches of fabric or paper; mount them on a an outline. The inner lines create the design. cardboard strip. As you shop, place the strip They include seamlines, necklines, belts, and on the garment or fabric and you'll see how other decorative details such as buttons or trim. you might look in that color. Remember that different types of lighting change color. COLOR AND YOU Choosing colors to wear is fun and exciting. FABRIC FACTS Begin by learning what these terms mean: Each year as you progress in 4-H, you learn new Hue is the name of a color, such as red or blue. things about fabrics. Fabrics are made from yarns and fibers that have been woven, knit, or Value indicates lightness or darkness, such as made into a non-woven fabric. Different types of light or dark green. fibers are used to make fabrics. 3 Natural Fibers Fabric Selection These grow in nature. Natural fibers from Each fiber has advantages and drawbacks.