THE SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB JOURNAL THE SCOTTISH Mountaineering C lub J ournal. KPITKl) BY WILLIAM DOUGLAS. EDINBURGH: THE SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB. - 1907- CONTENTS. I'A C E Some Hill Walks from Tyndrum. B y J . H . B e ll - - 1 More Motoring among the Mountains and a Kingshouse Meet in July. By G. Bennett Gibbs 9 The Motor in Mountaineering—The Brack. By TV. Inglis C lark ------- 19 In Memoriam—Joseph Collier, M.R., B.S., F.R.C.S. - 47 „ Alfred Williams 48 Ridge Walking on the Coolins at Easter 1905. B y H aro ld Raeburn ------- 59 The Train in Mountaineering. By Gilbert Thomson - - 71 Memories of the Kingshouse Meet, 1906. B y W. In g lis C lark 105 A Climb on the Coire Arder Cliffs. By F. S. Goggs - - 118 Hot Nights and Days on the Mountains in June. B y H. T. M unro - - - - - - 126 A Scottish Ice Climb. By Harold Raeburn - - 153 Glen Brittle in June. By H. MacRobert - - 159 An Experience on the Hills of Ey. By Edred M. Comer - 167 Quinag and Stack Polly. By TV. Inglis Clark - - 175 The Knees of the Gods - 192 A Tale of a Two Days’ Tramp. By F. S. Goggs - - 229 The Glen Creran Hills. By Arthur IV. Russet/ - 239 Aneroid Barometers. By J. Gall Inglis - 243 On Route Finding in Mist. By IV. Douglas ■ - 248 S.M.C. G uide B ook :— Strathcarron and Achnashellach Hills - 26 Applecross Group ----- 30 Torridon Group - 32 The Ben Eighe (Ben Eay) Range - 37 Slioch and Beinn Lair ----- 88 A’Mhaighdean and Beinn Dearg Mhor - - - 89 Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair - 90 An Teallach - - - - 92 The Fannichs - 95 Fionn Bheinn - - 98 VI Contents. I'AGF. S.M.C. Guide-Book— continued. Ben Wyvis ------ 132 Beinn Dearg - - - - - - 134 Coigach Group - - 135 Suilven - - 138 Ben More Assynt - - - - 140 Quinag (The Water Stoup ?) - - 199 Ben Hope - - - - - 200 Foinne Bheinn, Arcuil and Ben Hee - 202 Ben Laoghal - - - - - 204 Beinn Cleith Brie - - - - 205 The Galloway Hills - - - - 264 The Moffat, Lowther, and Tweedsmuir Hills 271 The Cheviot - - - 278 The Lammermuirs - - - 280 Moorfoots - - - 282 The Pentland Hills - - 283 Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags - 286 The Island of Skye - - - - 293 F ull-Page Illustrations:— On the Crowberry Ridge - - - - fa c in g 1 Buchaille Etive from Kingshouse - - - H 14 Sgurr Ruadh—The North-east Face - - >7 26 Liathach from Glen Torridon - - - 11 32 Beinn Eighe from Loch Coulin - - 71 38 Coire Mhic Fhearchair, Beinn Eighe - - 11 40 Corrag Bhuidhe of An Teallnch (from Summit Ridge looking South)- - - - . fa c in g 59 Loch Toll an Lochain, An Teallach - - 92 Southern Portion of the Main Range of An Teallach ,, 94 The Fannichs from Fain - - . 96 Loch Tay from Kenmore - - 105 Loch Tulla - - - - 108 Summit of the Clachlet - - - 11 110 Loch Tummel - - - - 11 112 Loch Rannoch . _ «! 114 Stack Polly from Loch Lurgan - 11 136 Suilven—The Gray Castle - - - - 11 .38 East Peak of Suilven, from the Gray Castle 11 140 Suilven and Canisp, from the North-west - 11 140 The “ Inaccessible” - - - - 11 '53 The Summit of Ben Nevis - - 11 158 The Alasdair-Dubh Gap - - - 11 164 Loch Lurgain and Stack Polly - - 11 182 Pinnacles of Stack Polly - - 11 185 Contents. Vll TAGS F u ll-Page I ILLUSTRATIONS—continued. Ben Hope and Loch Hope - fa cin g 200 Creag Dionard (Foinne Bheinn) 202 Inchnadamph, Easter 1907 229 The Cool'm - - - - 293 Loch Coruisk - n 3>2 Coire Lagan - - - » 3*4 Sligachan and Sgurr nan Gillean - - 328 Looking South from Bruach na Frithe - 338 Loch Coruisk from Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh - - 346 Looking North from Sgurr Thearlaich - - 348 Looking North from Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn - >» 350 Garsbheinn from Sgurr Sgumain - - - n 352 Loch Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda - 354 Blaven from Garbh-choire - - 360 Map of the Cuillin Hills - - - - it end Illustrations in T e x t :-- Beinn Bhan Corries - 31 Liathach Peaks - 33 Alligin Peaks - - - 35 An Teallach Corries - - - - - 92 Bidean a’ Ghlas Thuill from the North - - - 94 Looking across Harta Corrie from South Ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean - - - - - - ioi Stack Polly—Dr Collie’s Climb - - ' 9° Bhasteir Tooth - - - - - 225 Sgurr nan Gillean front Sligachan - - - 328 „ „ from South-east Ridge - • 329 „ „ Tooth of - - - - 33* „ „ from Sgurr a’ Bhasteir - - - 333 „ „ from the Druimhain Ridge - - 334 Bhasteir Tooth . - 336 „ „ South Face- - - 337 „ „ North Face - - - - 338 Looking across Harta Corrie from South Ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean ------ 34° Coire na Creiche ------ 342 Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh and Sgurr a1 Mhadaidh from Loch Coruisk ------ 345 The Pinnacle of Sgurr Dearg - - - 347 Sgurr Alasdair from Sgurr Dearg - - 35° East Face of Blaven and Glach Glas - - - 35^ West Face of Blaven and Clach Glas - - - 358 Clach Glas ------- 359 viii Contents. I’ AGF. Mountaineering Notes Alpine Distress Signal 226 An Tcallach - - 289 Beinn a Ghlo Electrical Disturbances 290 Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers - - 100 Ben More Assynt - - - 151,290 Blaven and Clach Glas - . 142 Brack, The ------- 144 Buchaille Etive ------ 224 Buchaille Etive Mor—The Chasm - 149 Cairngorms- .... 145 Climbing Nails - 55 Cobbler—North Peak - 54 Coire Ghreadaidh and Sgurr na Banachdich 142 Corrie Sugach .... - 143 Gael Charn—Monadhliaths - - - 147 Glencoe .... - 148 Hepburn, David .... 291 Loch Avon and Shelter Stone 147 Meall na Cuaich - - - - 147 Meall nan Tarmichan . - 100 Mullach, Coire an Iubhair - - - 144 Sgurr nan Gillean - - 288 Signalling .... - 226 Skye—The Castles, from Harta Corrie - - - 101 „ Bhasteir Tooth .... 225 S.M.C. Abroad in 1905 .... 50 „ „ in 1906 - 218 Reviews and Notices:— MacCuIloch’s “ The Misty Isle of Skye : its Scenery, its People, its Story” ..... 56 Abraham’s “ Rock Climbing in North Wales” 103 Proceedings of the Club Seventeenth Annual General Meeting and Dinner - 42 S.M.C. Library and Club Room - - - 45,86,216 New Year Meet at Tyndrum, 1906 - - - 76 Easter Meet at Ballachulish, Clachaig, and Kingshouse, 1906 79 Eighteenth Annual General Meeting and Dinner - 207 New Year Meet at Corrie, Arran, 1907 - - - 252 Easter Meet at Inchnadamph, Arrochar, and Fort- William, 1907 - ' 254 Aug-. 1905. A . K. Robertson. ON THE CROW HER KV RIDGE. THE SCOTTISH Hftountamming Club Sournal. Vol. IX. J anuary 1906. No, 49. SOME HILL WALKS FROM TYNDRUM. By J. H. B e l l . My wife and I spent three weeks at Tyndrum this autumn. Tyndrum is well known to most members of the Club as a climbing rendezvous, but perhaps its peculiar ad­ vantages as a cycling centre are not so obvious. Being as it is at the top of a watershed, and on two railways, it offers facilities for cycling runs of the most luxurious kind. One has only to go downhill in front of the wind in whichever direction it may be blowing, and return uphill and against the wind by train. In this way we had very enjoyable runs to Lochs Tay, Lomond, Awe, and Tulla. We had also several pleasant days on the hills, of which short notes are below. Wednesday, 6th September—Ben Dorain.—My wife and I walked up to the watershed on the Bridge of Orchy road. At the top of the hill I got on to my bicycle and ran down the next two miles to Auch bridge in five minutes. Leaving the bicycle behind a wall, I breasted the hill at once, and crossing the West Highland railway line kept on straight up the steep grass and scree slopes. For about a thousand feet the slope is pretty steep and some­ times calls for a little foot and hand scrambling. After this first bit the angle eases off and it is very easy going to the top (3,523 feet), reached in exactly two hours from the road. The top was clear, but it was the only high XLIX. A n The Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal. summit in the neighbourhood free of mist. Loch Tulla, Loch Lyon, and a bit of Loch Awe were in view, and also the lower slopes of Ben Cruachan, Ben Lui, Ben Heas- garnich, Clachlet, and half a hundred other mountains. There was very little wind, and half an hour was spent very pleasantly by the cairn over lunch and a pipe. The descent was made to the col between Ben Dorain and Ben Doth- aidh and then to the east down Corrie Ghabhalach,—bear­ ing gradually round to the south and striking the Glen Lyon track in Auch Glen about three miles from the road. By this time the mists had thickened and come to business, and a heavy wetting rain was falling. At Auch bridge the bicycle was found undisturbed, and thirty-five minutes’ cycling saw me back at Tyndrum at 4.15 P.M. F rid a y, 8 th September—Ben Dubhchraige and Ben Os. —Ben Dubhchraige is the most repaying hill in the district for the hill-walker. The view is, I think, even finer than from Ben Lui, as it opens nearly the full length of Loch Lomond. Ben Lui himself, too, looks a very noble mountain as seen from this direction. The ascent to Dubhchraige is a very pleasant one through a wooded gorge with a stream forming several small waterfalls and ending in a rocky punch-bowl into which three streams tumble from the moor above. The weather had been very wet before my ascent so that the falls were in good form,and I thought I had rarely seen a more beautiful place than this secluded hollow lit by the sunlight and filled with the spray from the falls. The easiest way to reach the gorge is to follow the Callander and Oban line for a quarter of an hour as far as the Coninish road. After about two hundred yards of the road a faint track will be found over the moor to a rather rickety wooden bridge over the Abhainn Coninish.