©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Tibetan Treks Why Go? Ganden to Samye . 237 Tibet, the highest land on earth, is a trekker’s dream. Its Tsurphu to towering mountains, deep valleys and verdant forests of- Yangpachen . 240 fer unbounded opportunities for walking. On foot the joys of the Tibetan landscape are heightened and immediate, Shalu to Nartang . 244 and all other modes of transport pale in comparison. The Everest Base Camp wonders of Tibet’s natural environment are enhanced by to Tingri . .247 the people met along the trail, heirs to an ancient and fas- Mt Kailash Kora . 250 cinating way of life. By plying the highland paths one can Nyenchen Tanglha enter into the same solemn relationship with nature that Traverse . 256 has sustained Tibetans through the ages. Best Long Trek » Ganden to Samye (p 237 ) Best Short Trek » Shalu to Nartang (p 244 ) Best Cultural When to Trek Trek The best time to trek in Tibet is during the warmer half of » Mt Kailash (p 250 ) the year. May and June are excellent months without much rain or snowfall but some high alpine passes may still be Best Trek to Spot closed. July and August are the hottest months of the year, but they tend to be rainy and this can make walking messy Wildlife and trails harder to fi nd. September and October are excel- » Nyenchen Tanglha (p 256 ) lent months for trekking, but in high areas the nights are cold and early snow is always a possibility. Best Trek to Follow Great Explorers » Mt Everest (p 247 ) walking, but always be prepared for the PLANNING YOUR TREK worst. 231 For all its attractions, Tibet is a formidable Before embarking on a trek, make sure place where even day walks involve surviv- you’re up to the challenge of high-altitude al skills and generous portions of determi- walking through rugged country. Test your nation. The remoteness of Tibet combined capabilities by going on day walks in the with its extreme climate poses special chal- hills around Lhasa and Shigatse. Attempt a lenges for walkers – and unique rewards. hike to the top of a small mountain such as As it’s situated on the highest plateau on Bumpa Ri, the prayer-fl ag–draped peak on earth and crisscrossed by the world’s lofti- the far side of the Kyi-chu from Lhasa. est mountains, nothing comes easily and careful preparation is all important. Even on the most popular treks, which can in- What to Bring TREKS TREK TIBETAN YOUR PLANNING TREKS volve several days of travel without any There is a great deal to see while trekking outside help, high passes up to 5600m are and you will be revitalised by the natural crossed. surroundings, but you must be prepared Cities such as Lhasa and Shigatse pro- for extremes in weather and terrain. The vide bases from which to equip and launch time of year and the places in which you treks. Walking the classic treks presented choose to walk will dictate the equipment BRING TO WHAT here will serve you well. Should you decide you need. to venture further afi eld, there are certainly many more frontiers beckoning the experi- CLOTHING & FOOTWEAR enced, well-equipped trekker. As a minimum, you will need basic warm It’s a good idea to budget in one or two clothing, including a hat, scarf, gloves, extra days for your trek, especially if a lot down jacket, long underwear, warm ab- of road travel is needed to get to the trail- sorbent socks, all-weather shell and sun head: roads can be blocked, especially in hat, as well as comfortable and well-made the wet summer months. If on your own, pants and shirts. Women may want to add you might also need additional time hiring a long skirt to their clothing list. Bring local guides and beasts of burden. loose-fi tting clothes that cover your arms, Trekkers must be prepared for extremes legs and neck, and a wide-brimmed hat like in climate, even in the middle of summer. the ones Tibetans wear. For information on A hot, sunny day can turn cold and mis- culturally appropriate dress, see the box, erable in a matter of minutes, especially p 300 . at higher elevations. Night temperatures If you attempt winter trekking, you will above 4700m routinely fall below freezing, certainly need more substantial moun- even in July and August. At other times of taineering clothing. Many people opt for the year it gets even colder. In midwinter synthetic-pile clothing, but also consider in northwestern Tibet, minimum tempera- wool or sheep fl eece, which have proven tures reach –40°C. Yet Tibet is a study in themselves in the mountains of Tibet for contrasts, and in summer a scorching sun centuries. One of your most important as- and hot, blustery winds can make even the sets will be a pair of strong, well-fi tting hik- hardiest walker scurry for any available ing boots. And remember to break them in shade. Between the two extremes, the Ti- before starting the trek! betan climate – cool and dry – is ideal for TREKKING DISCLAIMER Although the authors and publisher have done their utmost to ensure the accuracy of all information in this guide, they cannot accept any responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by people using this book. They cannot guarantee that the tracks and routes described here have not become impassable for any reason in the interval between research and publication. The fact that a trip or area is described in this guidebook does not mean that it is safe for you and your trekking party. You are ultimately responsible for judging your own capabilities in the conditions you encounter. E Q U I P M E N T series of charts covering Tibet at scales of 232 Three essential items are a tent, sleeping 1:1,000,000, 1:500,000 and 1:250,000. The bag and portable stove. There are few res- most useful of the American 1:500,000 taurants in the remote areas of Tibet and references for trekking in Tibet are H-10A provisions hard to come by, so you or your (Lhasa region, Ganden to Samye, Tsurphu support staff will end up preparing most of to Yangpachen), H-9A (Kailash and Mana- your meals. Expect to camp most nights – sarovar) and H-9B (Shigatse region, Shalu except in certain villages on the main trek- to Nartang, Everest region). king routes, it can be diffi cult to fi nd places Soviet 1:200,000 topographic maps can to sleep. Invest in a good tent that can han- now be consulted in many large univer- dle big storms and heavy winds. A warm sity library map rooms. Buying them has sleeping bag is a must. Manufacturers tend become easier with commercial outlets in TIBETAN TREKS to overrate the eff ectiveness of their bags, the West stocking them. Punch ‘Tibet maps’ so always buy a warmer one than you think into your computer search engine to see you’ll need. who carries them in your area. You will also need a strong, comfortable Digital maps are freely available at www. backpack large enough to carry all of your earth.google.com. To access them you will gear and supplies. To save a lot of misery, have to download the Google Earth In- test the backpack on day hikes to be certain staller. The images currently available vary PLANNING TREK YOUR it fi ts and is properly adjusted. widely in quality but are expected to soon Other basic items include water contain- reach a standard by which you can closely ers with at least 2L capacity, a system for chart your trekking routes. water purifi cation, a torch (fl ashlight), com- The Swiss company Gecko Maps (www. pass, pocketknife, fi rst-aid kit (see p 362 ), geckomaps.com) produces a 1:50,000-scale waterproof matches, sewing kit, shrill Mt Kailash trekking map. whistle and walking stick or ski pole. This last item not only acts as a walking aid, but also as a defence against dog attacks. Trekking Agencies Tibetan dogs can be particularly large and The kind of trek you take will depend on brutal, and they roam at will in nearly every your experience and the amount of time village and herders’ camp. Bring your walk- you have. Unless you have already hiked ex- ing stick or pole from home, or purchase tensively in the Andes or Himalayas and are Chinese-made trekking poles in Lhasa. willing to try and skirt travel regulations, it Petrol for camping stoves is widely avail- is far better to organise your walk through able in towns and cities but is of fairly poor a travel agency. quality. To prevent your stove from getting The main advantage of going with an gummed up you will have to clean it regu- agency is that it takes care of all the red larly. Kerosene (煤油, méiyóu in Chinese; tape and dealings with offi cials. Most agen- sanum in Tibetan) can also be obtained in cies off er a full-package trek, including cities. transport to and from the trailhead, guide, For details on buying and hiring trek- cook, yaks, horses or burros to carry the king gear in Lhasa, see p 73 . Nowadays, equipment, mess tent and cooking gear. there are scores of shops in Lhasa selling The package may even include sleeping such equipment. bags and tents if these are required. There is a plethora of private agencies that can arrange treks.