Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands

Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands The Sepik p124 Morobe & Madang Island Provinces Provinces The Highlands p82 p102 p147 Solomon #_ Islands Port p176 Moresby Central, Oro p44 & Milne Bay Provinces p62 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Lindsay Brown, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Anna Kaminski PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to PNG PORT MORESBY . 44 East Cape . 73 & Solomon Islands . 4 Around Port Moresby . 59 Wagawaga . 73 PNG & Solomon Sogeri Road . 59 North Coast . 74 Islands Map . 6 Samarai Islands . 74 PNG & Solomon Islands’ D’Entrecasteaux Islands . 76 Top 15 . 8 CENTRAL, ORO & MILNE BAY Trobriand Islands . 78 Need to Know . 16 PROVINCES . 62 If You Like… . 18 Central Province . 63 MOROBE & MADANG Month by Month . 21 Kokoda . 63 PROVINCES . 82 Itineraries . 23 Oro Province . 66 Morobe Province . 84 Popondetta . 66 Lae . 84 First Time in PNG . 27 Oro Bay . 67 Salamaua . 90 Diving in PNG & Tufi . 67 Wau & Bulolo . 90 Solomon Islands . 31 Milne Bay Province . 68 Madang Province . 92 Kokoda Track . 35 Alotau . 69 Madang . 92 Regions at a Glance . 41 DAVID KIRKLAND/DESIGN PICS/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES PICS/GETTY KIRKLAND/DESIGN DAVID HANUABADA, PORT MORESBY, P47 Contents UNDERSTAND Around Madang . 97 Vanimo . 132 Papua New Guinea North Coast Highway . 98 The Sepik & Today . 210 Simbai . 101 Its Tributaries . 135 History . 212 Upper Sepik . 140 Environment . 220 THE HIGHLANDS . 102 Middle Sepik . 141 Lower Sepik . 144 The Kokoda Story . 224 Eastern Highlands Province . 103 Tributaries & Lakes . 145 The People of PNG . 226 Goroka . 103 Simbu Province . 110 ISLAND Kundiawa . 110 PROVINCES . 147 Around Kundiawa . 111 New Britain . 150 SURVIVAL Mt Wilhelm . 111 East New Britain GUIDE Kegsugl to Madang . 113 Province . 151 West New Britain Directory A–Z . 230 Western Highlands & Province . 161 Jiwaka Provinces . 113 Transport . 239 Mt Hagen . 113 New Ireland Province . 163 Kavieng . 164 Enga Province . 118 Language . 245 Wabag . 118 Lavongai (New Hanover) & East Islands . 168 Index . 252 Southern Highlands East Coast . 169 Map Legend . 259 Province . 119 Mendi . 120 Autonomous Region of Bougainville . 171 Lake Kutubu & Around . 120 Buka Island . 172 Hela Province . 121 Bougainville . 175 Tari . 121 SOLOMON THE SEPIK . 124 ISLANDS . 176 East Sepik Province . 125 Guadalcanal . 177 Wewak & Around . 125 Honiara . 177 Sandaun Province . 132 East of Honiara . 188 West of Honiara . 189 M. GEBICKI/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GEBICKI/GETTY M. Western Province . 190 Marovo Lagoon . .. 190 SPECIAL West New Georgia . 194 FEATURES Ghizo . 196 First Time in PNG . 27 Islands Around Ghizo . 200 Diving in PNG & Malaita . 200 Solomon Islands . 31 Auki & Around . 200 Kokoda Track . 35 Langa Langa Lagoon . 203 The Kokoda Story . 224 Understand the Solomon Islands . 203 The People of PNG . 226 PERFORMERS AT A TRIBAL Survival Guide . 205 DANCE FESTIVAL, P9 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23 Itineraries Madang •# B I S M A R C K S E A # Kumul – Mt Wilhelm Lodge •# Mt Hagen Tari É R •# •# •# Mendi Kegsugl •# É •# Asaro •# Goroka Lake Kutubu PAPUA NEW GUINEA S O L O M O N –# S E A # – Gulf of Papua PORT MORESBY #_ •# Loloata Island 2 WEEKS Highlands Fling Take in the highlights of the Highlands and the coast on this two-week tour. Spend a day taking in the highlights of Port Moresby before flying up to pretty Madang. Spend a couple days diving or snorkelling and exploring nearby islands before taking a short flight or a PMV bus up the Highlands (Okuk) Hwy to Goroka and see the Goroka Show – and don’t forget to visit the mudmen of Asaro just outside of Goroka. Continue through Kundiawa up to Kegsugl for the amazing three- or four-day trek up Mt Wilhelm. After enjoying the view of both coasts, make the descent for travel onward to Mt Hagen, enjoying the spectacular scenery and a game of Highlands darts. For birds of paradise spend a couple of days at Kumul Lodge on the road up to Wabag. If there’s no clan warfare, continue along the highway to Mendi and stunning Lake Kutubu and then Tari, but if the feisty Southern Highlanders are fighting you’d better do this leg by aeroplane – the beautiful Tari Basin, however, is worth the expense. Don’t miss the Huli wigmen in all their feathered glory. From Tari fly back to Port Moresby and, if time allows, spend a final day relaxing on Loloata Island. 24 Kaibola S O L O M O N Trobriand •# S E A Islands •# Popondetta Losuia É •# PLAN YOUR TRIP Kokoda •# Kiriwina – # Island Kokoda •# Tufi É Track PORT #– Owers' # MORESBY •# – – #_ Corner # D'Entrecasteaux Islands •# PAPUA NEW GUINEA IT É É East I NERAR Cape # – •# É Alotau É •# É I ES Wagawaga•# É É •# •# Samarai Kwato Island C O R A L S E A Island 4 WEEKS Eastward Wander Leave the relative comforts of Port Moresby to take on one of PNG’s most memorable and challenging treks, the famous Kokoda Track, then recover on an idyllic beach. Take the classic Kokoda Track route from Port Moresby and Owers’ Corner and get a feel for the challenges faced by the troops by walking for days along this rugged path, traversing chilly streams, visiting old bunker installations and war memorials and stop- ping at remote villages along the way. At the end of the trek, spend a day relaxing in the settlement of Kokoda. From there catch a PMV to Popondetta and fly on to Tufi, an area of stunning coastline with steep fjord-like rias, and a lush, mountainous interior. Go diving or snorkelling, fish for your dinner, explore the area by boat and kayak, and spend a few nights in one or more of the village guesthouses in the area. Accommodation is rustic, but the setting is fantastic – white-sand beaches, swaying palms and coral reefs at your doorstep. Fly from Tufi back to Port Moresby and on to Alotau, gateway to the idyllic beauty of Milne Bay. Spend a day experiencing the market, the harbour and fine views from Top Town. Then catch an afternoon boat out to the colonial-era capital of Samarai Island and nearby Kwato Island. The bungalows of Nuli Sapi make a fine base for exploring the area before heading back to Alotau and over to Wagawaga. Visit waterfalls, go for a dugout canoe trip on the Dawadawa River and enjoy serene views from Ulumani Tree- tops Lodge. Afterwards, cross back to Alotau, load up on provisions and fuel and head up to East Cape by boat for an adventure exploring the D’Entrecasteaux Islands. Birdwatching, rainforest walks, postcard beaches, coral reefs and peaceful villages are all part of the allure of this little-visited region. For the final leg of the journey, fly from Alotau up to Losuia on Kiriwina, the largest of the Trobriand Islands. Spend three days visiting traditional villages, learning about yam power and magic and perhaps catching a singsing (celebratory dance or festival) or a festive cricket match. Stay at least one night in a village; Kaibola, perched near a pic- turesque beach, is a good option. From Kiriwina it’s an easy flight back to Moresby. 25 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES ANDREW PEACOCK/GETTY IMAGES © Islands Port Moresby Port (p80), Trobriand Top: KaibolaTop: Beach Cemetery (p59) near Bottom: Bomana War War Bomana Bottom: ERIC LAFFORGUE/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES © 26 Lavongai S O U T H (New S O U T H PA C I F I C Hanover) PA C I F I C O C E A N •# PLAN YOUR TRIP •#Kavieng O C E A N É •# Boluminski Highway B I S M A R C K #– S E A SOLOMON Rabaul •# New Ireland # Gizo ISLANDS – •# Munda Marovo Kimbe #– Buka •# Lagoon •# Langa Langa Bay –# •# •# É Lagoon Buka IT Savo •# New PAPUA I •# Britain •# NERAR # – Malaita #_ É Island NEW GUINEA Bougainville HONIARA Guadalcanal S O L O M O N I S E A ES S O L O M O N SOLOMON S E A ISLANDS 3 3 WEEKS Solomons Sojourn WEEKS Island Odyssey World-class diving, virgin waves and idyl- A world away from the Highlands, the lic island retreats: the Solomon Islands is a island provinces are a mecca for surfers, place for adventurers. divers, bushwalkers and those wanting an idyllic Robinson Crusoe–type getaway far Start your journey in Honiara. Take from the crowds of modern cities. in the market, the wharf and national museum, then tack on a tour of the battle- From Moresby fly up to Hoskins to fields and pretty beaches outside the capi- spend a couple of days based at Walindi tal. Next take a boat to Savo, a volcanic diving, snorkelling, birdwatching and bush- island with boiling hot springs, a massive walking around Kimbe Bay. Afterwards, megapode field and pretty, tropical scenery. fly on to Rabaul. There, visit Matupit Spend a few days unwinding here before Island and check out steaming Tavurvur, boating back to Honiara and catching a the volcano that buried the Pacific’s pret- boat to Marovo Lagoon, a great setting tiest city, before getting under the water for snorkelling, swimming and simply at the WWII-era Submarine Base. Fly on soaking up the tropical beauty. Catch a to Kavieng, where you can get your fill of boat up to the north end of the lagoon for surfing or diving, before heading towards a stay in one of the pristine ecolodges, then Lavongai for a remote tropical- island continue by plane from Seghe airstrip to getaway. Work your way slowly down the Munda, a fine base for diving, surfing and Boluminski Highway, stopping at rustic bushwalking in New Georgia.

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