Gold in Watchmaking Lucien F Trueb In der Oberwis 9, CH-8123 Ebmatingen, Switzerland Email: [email protected] Received: 26 November 1999 The attractive colour of gold, its brightness, durability as well as its tarnish and corrosion resistance made it the choice material for watch cases, from the earliest ‘onion’ of the 16th century to today’s multi-motor quartz wrist chronograph. But the use of gold was never just limited to the case and other visible parts. Fire gilding was used in the earliest watches to protect baseplate, bridges and gears from tarnishing and corrosion. In order to give the watch the highest possible value linked with aesthetics and functionality, most (but not all) watch parts have been made of gold alloys at one time or another or have been gold plated. Gold is purely functional as a brazing compound; it is indispensable for chip bonding, wiring and frequency adjustment in electronic watches. FROM TOWER CLOCKS TO often than not hidden in an exquisitely worked and decorated case. All kinds of materials were used, POCKET WATCHES including of course gold. Goldsmiths and jewellers It is impossible to tell when time measurement devices (particularly in Paris and Geneva) were quick to realise started to take advantage of the decorative and that the timepiece was a new product line for them. functional properties of gold. The precious metal Only the very rich could afford solid gold, but there certainly was used in sundials, clepsydras and was a substantial market for clocks made of gilt bronze, hourglasses of different civilizations many centuries copper, silver or brass. Iron was preferred in Germany, before the advent of clocks and watches. We do know it was copper plated by immersing it into a copper that the first tower clocks were built in the last years of sulfate solution, then fire gilded. the 13th century and very early in the 14th, both in At the beginning the 16th century, spring-driven, Britain and France. They quickly became status truly portable, drum shaped timepieces with just an symbols of churches, monasteries and castles hour hand appeared almost simultaneously in France, throughout Europe all the way to Russia. It was only Germany, Great Britain and Northern Italy. Such natural to coat the metal hand(s) and numerals with instruments meant to be carried on the person were gold leaf, using the classical gold size as an adhesive, ie called watches. Their mechanisms were similar to that a mixture of linseed oil and copals with finely of chamber clocks, but it had taken 50 years to achieve pulverised ochre and litharge. Another possibility was the required miniaturization, which was very labour to fire gild them after rubbing with a mercury-gold intensive. Watch movements were expensive, such amalgam; this technology can be traced back to the 4th luxury items thus deserved a gold case. The first gold century BC. Then as now, gold provided long term watches on record were owned by Queen Elizabeth I of corrosion protection and superb visibility. England (1533 – 1603); her inventory mentions that The common view that tower clocks preceded they were decorated with rubies, emeralds, pearls, domestic clocks is probably wrong, the development garnets and agates. may even have gone the other way. The first reference From its earliest beginning, watchmaking was both to domestic timepieces indeed goes back to the end of an art and a craft. This applied to the casemakers and the 13th century. Be it as it may, wall and table clocks to the makers of movements; the latter not only were first commissioned or purchased by members of steadily improved timekeeping precision, but also took royal families, the nobility, high ranking clergy and the great care in making their machinery look like works well-to-do elite. Thus, the clock movement was more of art. The pursuit of such beauty truly was “l’art pour Gold Bulletin 2000, 33(1) 11 l’art”, as the movement normally was invisible to the With Huygen’s invention of the balance wheel and watch owner. It was not a passing folly: several Swiss hairspring in 1675, the precision of watches gained an and a couple of German firms still (or again) make and order of magnitude. They now became instruments, successfully sell watches with breathtakingly beautiful not just beautiful pieces of jewellery giving the (and very expensive) mechanical movements. In former approximate time. Gold – engraved and patterned – days, only the watchmaker would see them; nowadays regained its place in the case; if the latter was made of such luxury watches are provided with a sapphire glass brass, it was often covered with black leather or back, so the owner can enjoy the beauty he bought. sharkskin, which itself was patterned with gold (or This beauty is reduced to a network of golden lace silver) rivets. The movement, now a reason for pride supporting barrel, gear train and regulating organs and usually made of gilt brass, was provided with a when the movement is ‘skeletonized’. No dial is circular, large diameter balance cock exquisitely provided in such watches; their movement is decorated with carved and engraved floral and animal sandwiched between two sapphire crystals in order to motifs; it entirely covered the balance wheel. make them as transparent and ‘airy’ as possible. Inevitably, this led to excesses such as enamelled Aside from the above exceptions, the watch medallions decorated with precious stones serving as movement is usually hidden from view; only the case, balance cock, engraved bottom plates and bridges, the dial and the other external parts are fully exposed shaped pillars etc. Miniature enamel painting to view. Early casemakers had to be superb artists, as continued though and still flourished until the end of their clients belonged to the aristocracy and the very the 19th century, both in Paris and Geneva. The same wealthy. Some of the greatest works of art ‘en applies to unpainted, translucent enamel which was miniature’ were created for them, particularly in Paris applied to gold watch cases with guilloché work; this and Geneva – invariably using gold. The precious technology was particularly appreciated in Great metal was not only exquisitely fashioned, engraved and Britain in the early 19th century. An earlier British patterned, it also served as a base for diamonds, pearls speciality in the middle of the 18th century was gold and coloured precious stones as well as for miniature relief (achieved by the repoussé technique) with mostly enamel painting. ‘Champlevé’ enamel was always done mythological scenes on both sides of the case. in gold, so was cloisonné, the motifs being drawn with The ‘problem’ of the French and British gold wire glued to a gold substrate; firing the enamel watchmakers was that they catered for the rich: they also welded the gold. produced individually crafted masterpieces in small quantities at very high prices. The watchmakers in the ART AND TECHNOLOGY The beauty of the (mostly French and British) watches of the 16th and 17th century has never been matched. They were equipped with high quality movements on both sides of the Channel, but they lacked ruggedness and durability in France. Miniature painting with metal oxides on a white enamel background fired on gold became a speciality of the craftsmen in Blois and Paris. They decorated the entire case and the dial in this manner, the cover inside and outside, leaving only gold circles and fine gold patterns at the periphery. British watchmakers on the other hand fitted the best high precision movements of the time into wonderfully decorated cases using rock crystal, gold, silver, precious stones and enamel during the Stuart period; some of those cases were imported from France. When luxury fell out of fashion under Cromwell in the middle of the 17th century, the very stark, oval shaped ‘Puritan watches’ appeared; their case was usually made of polished brass, Figure 1 Gold blanks for cases and case bottoms. (Precinox, La but plain polished gold was used occasionally. Chaux-de-Fonds) 12 Gold Bulletin 2000, 33(1) casemakers learned to make very thin gold cases which were rather weak, as they consisted of 0.15 mm gold plate and weighed only 20 to 30 grams. Thus, around 1850, the gold in a British watch was worth 7 pounds sterling, that in a Swiss watch only 2. Of course, the latter was much cheaper, and it still was a gold watch, albeit quite delicate. This tradition of making gold watches with an absolute minimum of precious metal continued with the advent of the wristwatch; old timers in La Chaux-de-Fonds vividly remember cases for small ladies’ watches with a 6 3/4 line movement which weighed all of 1.6 grams. THE GOLD WATCH INDUSTRY In the latter part of the 19th and in the 20th century, the Swiss watch industry expanded enormously and became a dominating force world-wide. It also survived many crises; the worst one in the early eighties of the 20th century was due to the ‘quartz revolution’ which swept away the entire branch of cheap mechanical watches. Some 60,000 jobs were lost in the process, which nearly corresponded to two thirds of the entire industry’s workforce. The well managed Figure 2 Cold impact die forging of a tonneau shaped gold manufacturers of high end watches hardly noticed the case. (Varin Etampage, Delémont) crisis: there always is a class of very wealthy people who will buy the ultimate in luxury, quality and beauty regardless of price. Swiss Jura mountains and (to a lesser extent) in Today, the Swiss watch industry keeps growing Geneva, applied the principles of mass production and nicely in terms of sales even though the number of extreme division of labour.