THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN The Square 07 AUTUMN 2019 ART & CULTURE FOOD TRAVEL News and views from Pimlico Photographer Lesley Lau takes Loosen your belt buckle this For autumn sun we visit the and beyond, featuring the best us on a visual stroll through the autumn for Britain’s best new boutique hotels on the openings and upcoming events local markets of Pimlico custard-drenched puds Greek Island of Ios 1 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN Welcome It’s the traditional time for harvest festivals and colder evenings mean your body is craving a little comfort, so we’ve chosen food as the theme for our autumn issue. When John Keats referred to this season as a time of “mellow fruitfulness” he could have been referring to Pimlico’s food markets, which we sent Lesley Lau to explore on a sunny morning with her camera. If the idea of scouring berry-filled hedgerows and rocky shorelines for wild feasts appeals, our round-up of the UK’s best foraging workshops is packed full of ideas. Feast at Claude Bosi’s Bibendum in the iconic Michelin House, discover Tom Aikens’ top restaurant recommendations and plan a weekend in Cheltenham to tie in with its famous literary festival, celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. Or simply curl up somewhere cosy and indulge in a delicious romp through the history of some of Britain’s favourite puddings. Neil Miller-Chalk Editorial Director Contributors: Imogen Lepere Lesley Lau Andrew Eames Tom Aikens Editor Contributor Contributor Contributor After four years as senior writer A travel and food photographer Andrew Eames is a writer and Long-term local resident and at Food and Travel, Imogen who loves learning about journalist based in London. With holder of two Michelin stars Lepere is making the most different cultures and is rarely one parent from the Hebrides Tom Aikens tips us off on his and the other from the Channel of freelance life by travelling happier than when exploring favourite places to eat, drink Islands, he was born with his everywhere from Melbourne to somewhere new at sunrise with and hang out with his family in suitcase packed. In this issue, Mongolia. This issue, her regular just her camera for company. and around Pimlico (p.20). He he travels to the Greek island food column (p.16) is written This issue, she captures Pimlico also shares a delicious pear and of Ios (p.34) for some autumnal in praise of puddings and she Farmer’s Market, Tachbrook sun and discovers a thriving blackberry crumble recipe for also reviews some of the best Street Market and Duke of York boutique hotel and restaurant you to try in your own kitchen, restaurants within walking Square Food Market (p.10) in a scene attracting a sophisticated an indulgent way to round off a distance of Dolphin Square (p. 22). colourful photo essay. crowd to this idyllic isle. roast (p.18) this autumn. Design & Art Direction: Hutton Farquhar www.huttonfarquhar.com Dolphin Square Bar & Grill 3 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN Contents The name -- of it -- is “Autumn” Inside this issue of The Square: The name -- of it -- is “Autumn” -- The hue -- of it -- is Blood -- An Artery -- upon the Hill -- A Vein -- along the Road -- Great Globules -- in the Alleys -- And Oh, the Shower of Stain -- 34 When Winds -- upset the Basin -- TREASURE ISLAND And spill the Scarlet Rain -- 16 Ios is emerging as a sophisticated place for autumn PRIDE AND PUDDINGS sun thanks to a host of new It sprinkles Bonnets -- far below -- Loosen your belt buckle boutique hotels. Our writer It gathers ruddy Pools -- for a custard-drenched discovers more. Then -- eddies like a Rose -- away -- celebration of Britain’s best Upon Vermilion Wheels -- puddings, including a pear and blackberry crumble recipe from Tom Aikens. 30 by Emily Dickinson 10 HEDGEROW HARVEST Make the most of autumn’s POSTCARDS bounty with the best foraging FROM PIMLICO workshops in the UK, all in Join our photographer on beautiful locations that are a morning stroll through easily reached from London Tachbrook Food Market, Victoria. Pimlico Road Farmer’s Market and Duke of York Square Food Market. 22 FAST FOOD Our editor reviews three restaurants within strolling distance of Dolphin Square, including Clause Bosi’s two- Michelin-starred Bibendum. 4 5 LOCAL NEWS, OUT & ABOUT LOCAL NEWS, OUT & ABOUT PIMLICO PIMLICO Flavour FILM fiesta LIGHT YOUR FIRE of the month BFI Film Festival, 2-13 October Bonfire night, 2 November Pimlico and the surrounding areas Remember remember to book your tickets for Battersea Park’s have long been a mecca for excellent annual fireworks display, a 22-minute extravaganza that will restaurants and over the last few months illuminate Wandsworth’s skyline and the many bridges over several extremely high profile openings the Thames in early November (exact date TBC). Although are continuing the tradition. First up there are 50,000 tickets they always sell out, so be sure to is Siren, housed in a glass pavilion visit the council’s website in the first week of September to overlooking the gardens of The Goring bag your spot. Afterwards, warm up with a pint at Battersea Hotel. Two-Michelin-starred chef Nathan Brewery, which is tucked away in the arches of Battersea Outlaw brings his trademark respect Power Station. £10. to quality Cornish ingredients to create dishes such as red mullet with devilled enablelc.org, batterseabrew.co.uk shrimp butter and lobster grilled over an open fire. An elegant space furnished in neutral tones with plenty of rattan touches, 5 Social is Jason Atherton’s love letter to British produce. Menus change regularly to reflect the seasons, but may include the likes of poached Hebridean halibut and beef tartare cannelloni, served alongside lesser known European wines. Discover a slice of sunny Sicily in the heart of Fitzrovia at Circolo Popolare, the sister restaurant to cult Shoreditch pasta-joint, Gloria. Feast on pizzas The most star-studded event of London’s film-going calender served by the metre or create your own is back for its 63rd year and it promises to be a whopper. The antipasti spread beneath the luscious opening night gala will be the premier of Armando Iannucci’s living garden that hangs from the ceiling. The Personal History of David Copperfield starring Dev Patel, thegoring.com, 5social.co.uk, and there are a whole host of shorts, workshops and panel discussions to get your teeth into. The full programme is yet to bigmammagroup.com be announced but keep your eyes peeled for events at the BFI Southbank and The Curzon Mayfair. bfi.org.uk, curzoncinemas.com Raising the standard From the outside, the former Camden Town Hall Annexe is an imposing brutalist building in varying shades of grey. But thanks to a recent renovation by US hotel group The Standard, inside a riot of colour awaits. Forty bedrooms boast quirky features such as outdoor bathtubs and red wardrobes with handles that mirror the building’s curvaceous windows. In the lobby, a sound studio hosts weekly live music sessions, while Isla, a garden restaurant headed up by chef Adam Rawson, draws inspiration from Britain’s coastline. Doubles from £209. standardhotels.com WORK IT While the flexibility of freelancing can’t be beaten, the hassle of looking for somewhere inspiring to work every day can get A sculptural stroll a little wearing. Step forward The Work Room, a new app that allows you to book a table at some of London’s most beautiful Frieze sculpture, 3-6 October restaurant spaces, including The Bluebird in Chelsea and Battersea Power Station’s Fiume. With access to delicious food For a few days in October, the bucolic English Gardens in Regent’s Park will be transformed into an and the chance to bring two guests throughout the day, it’s the open air gallery displaying work by more than 20 international artists. Have your imagination fired ideal set up for hosting meetings and fellow freelancers. by a three-metre-high rendition of children’s storybook character ‘My Melody’ by New York-based £10 per day including free coffee. sculptor Tom Sachs, and Tracey Emin’s ‘When I Sleep’, a bronze figure that is both touching and perturbing in equal measure. Free. frieze.com theworkroom.io 6 7 HIDDEN GEMS Regency Cafe 17-19 Regency St, Westminster, London SW1P 4BY, UK Gingham curtains, check. Interiors that have barely changed since 1946, check. The word ‘fried’ next to practically every dish on the menu, check. This archetypal greasy spoon has featured in several films yet remains one of the most authentic places in London for a fry up. regencycafe.has.restaurant 8 9 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN Culture: Postcards from pimlico A Saturday morning stroll through Pimlico and Chelsea reveals three markets overflowing with seasonal produce. Whet your appetite and meet some of your local food heroes with Lesley Lau’s photo essay of Tachbrook Street Market, Pimlico Road Farmer’s Market and Duke of York Square Food Market. 10 11 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN 12 13 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN 14 15 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN THE SQUARE - ISSUE 7 AUTUMN Treacle tart wallowing in a puddle of Jersey cream. Spotted dick (no laughing at the back) basking in custard. In my opinion whoever deemed it acceptable to combine cake, fruit, booze, cream and sprinkles into a single decadent dish deserves a knighthood. Why should we have to choose when we can simply layer all our favourite ingredients in a single bowl and call it a trifle? British puddings are the definition of comfort food.