40 ANCIENT HAMPSHIRE FORESTS AND THE GEOLOGICAL CONDITIONS OF THEIR GROWTH. ,; BY T. W, SHORE, F.G.S., F.C.S. If we examine the map oi Hampshire with the view of considering what its condition, probably was' at that time which represents the dawn of history, viz., just before the Roman invasion, and consider what is known of the early West Saxon settlements in the county, and of the earthworks of their Celtic predecessors, we can .scarcely fail to come to the conclusion that in pre-historic Celtic time it must have been almost one continuous forest broken only by large open areas of chalk down land, or by the sandy heaths of the Bagshot or Lower Greensand formations. On those parts of the chalk down country which have only a thin soil resting on the white chalk, no considerable wood could grow, and such natural heath and furze land as the upper Bagshot areas of the New Forest, of Aldershot, and Hartford Bridge Flats, or the sandy areas of the Lower Bagshot age, such as exists between Wellow and Bramshaw, or the equally barren heaths of the Lower Greensand age, in the neighbourhood of Bramshot and Headley, must always have been incapable of producing forest growths. The earliest traces of human settlements in this county are found in and near the river valleys, and it as certain as any matter which rests on circumstantial evidence, can be that the earliest clearances in the primaeval woods of Hampshire were on the gently sloping hill sides which help to form these valleys, and in those dry upper vales whicli are now above the permanent sources of the rivers. The sites of nearly all Hampshire villages come under one or other of these physical conditions. They are ancient dwelling sites, 41 and will be found in almost all cases to have been selected in reference to a permanent water supply, either from a running stream, or from a reliable source not far below the surface. Hampshire-is a richly wooded county at the present time, and perhaps no spots in the middle of it enable us to realize to some extent what its ancient forest character must have been, so well as such eminences as Woolbury Mount, Popham Beacon, Farley Chamberlayne, Woodgarston, Beacon Hill, Highclere, and Beacon Hill, near Warnford, which afford very extensive woodland views at the present day. In Roman time Hampshire must have presented an appear- ance quite typical of Caesar's description of Britain, viz., that of " a country covered with forests, and its cities fortified woods." At least one such Celtic stronghold in this county sub- sequently became a noted Roman city under the name of Silchester, a fortified city in a wood, a character which we may well believe it possessed, from the elevation above its wooded surroundings at the present day. The earthen " rampiers " o.utside the Roman walls of Silchester probably mark the old Celtic defensive lines. Similarly the Celtic fortifications at Beacon Hill and Ladle hill. Burghclerej at Winklebury, Sherfield-on-Loddon, Quarley, Bury Hill,Wood- garston, and perhaps others now destroyed; which were the strongholds or oppidi of refuge of thenorthern Hampshire tribes, must have towered above the vast expanse of woodland that formed the great northern forest of this county, broken only by the alluvial lands along the rivers, the heaths of the Bagshot sands, the so-called " white land" of the downs where the chalk is almost bare, and' the dry flint strewed upper chalk valleys. The whole northern part of Hampshire retained its general forest character through- Anglo-Saxon times far down into the middle ages. This extensive area formed the largest of all the ancient forests of this county, and comprised those parts which were afterwards known as Eversley forest, Pamber forest, the forest of Freemantle, the forest of Wytinglea or. Wytel, and the forest of Chute. At the north eastern corner, of Hampshire we have the old place name of the village of Yateley or Gateley, which tells us of the limits which nature has placed upon its extent. This village was probably at one time the gate of the forest, 42 beyond which to the east the wide tracts of the upper Bagshot sands form the extensive heaths of Chobham. South and south-west of Yateley are the upper Bagshot heath lands of Hartford Bridge flats and Eversley Common, and west of it are the sandy areas of the Lower Bagshot age round Bramshill; upon part of which perhaps-what are the finest pines in England are growing at the present time. The timber land of this part of the northern forest area is much broken by the intervening spaces of heath. Near- Yateley the clay land on which the timber grows is chiefly of the Bracklesham age, and near Bramshill the London clay comes to the sur- face, and forms a wide expanse of strong clay land that extends round Stratfieldsaye, southwards to Newnham, and westwards to Bramley and Pamber. Round Silchester and westward to Tadley irregular alternations occur of the; Bagshots, Bracklesham beds, and London Clay. Southwards the line of outcrop of the chalk which extends from Crondall past Odiham, Old Basing, Sherborn St. John, Monk Sherborn, Wolverton, Kingsclere, Highclere, and thence by a turn to the north west to East Woodhay, in the north west of the county, gives a distinctive character to the woodland- scenery of North Hampshire at the present day, and in olden time we may be quite sure this character was still more strongly marked. The woods on the chalk slopes south.of this line to the water parting of the Loddon, between Basing- stoke and Whitchurch, and the sources of the Test from Church Oakley to Andover, have a character of their own, the indigenous beech tree which grows well on loams derived from the debris of the Reading beds, resting on chalk slopes, forming the prevailing feature of these woods, while'the indigenous oak is characteristic of stronger clay land. The sandy Bagshot formations are marked by the native heaths and gorse, and by the conifers which grow so well upon them, of which those of Bramshill and the acclimatised pines at Little, Switzerland, on the Stratfieldsaye estate, form the best examples.. , The forest area of North Hampshire is characterised by outliers of the Bracklesham beds, which form a distinct feature in the geology of the district, and add to the beauty of its woodland scenery. The most marked geological charac- teristic of this area, however, is the great inlier of Upper 43 Greenland in the Kingsclere vale, where the complete removal of the chalk by which it is surrounded has laid it bare. In some parts of this denuded area the Gault probably lies near the surface, wherever the Upper Greensand has been most worn. This impervious Gault clay, by bearing up the water beneath the permeable Upper Greensarid, must have- had some influence on the forest growth of the Kingsclere district. These geological forestry conditions and capabilities of the area of North Hampshire are, however, much modified in some parts by the thick deposit of drift gravel by which the beds are covered, and there are many alternations in the pre- vailing features, depending on the outcrop or disappearance of the Tertiary formations, along the forest area from Odiham to the north-west. The old north and south road from Newbury or Speen through Whitchurch to Winchester passed through this ancient northern forest. This road follows the track which is the natural pass of the district;—viz., the valley between : the Burghclere Hills: Beacon Hill on the west and Ladle Hill on the east. The old track appears to have been near . to the foot of Ladle Hill. It is worth noting that at the time of the Doomsday Survey only two'toll places are recorded as existing in Hampshire, of which one, producing fifteen shillings annually, was at Clere. The other toll place was • at Titchfield, and the tax was a " thelonium", or duty on imports. The toll at Clere could scarcely have been of this nature, but it may not improbably - have been a " cheminagium", or a tax on waggons and other carriages going through a forest. The old forest road which led northward through Clere was probably not the modern : road, but that north and south road east of it, which extends • for a long way almost parallel to it and along which, north- east of Burghclere old church, urns and other Roman remains have been found. The Roman roads which passed through the northern forests were those which led to Silchester from Sarum, Win- chester, and London. The last of these, under the name of the Devil's Highway, forms the northern boundary of the county at the present time for some miles east of. Silchester. There was also the road previously mentioned, from Win- chester to Speen, which, if not of Roman construction, was 44 certainly used during their occupation ; and there was also the road from Winchester to Cirencester, which may still be traced through Harewood, and may also be seen in a very perfect condition near Tarigley, passing through what was formerly part of the Forest of Chute. In the 35th of Henry III. the bailiwick of Pamber Forest, or Penbere, was held by Walter de Eversley, and in the Inquisitiones post mortem of Edward I. we have a record of seventy acres of newly assarted land, or land cleared of wood, held in this forest. Mention is also made of Pamber Forest in the Inquisitiones post mortem 17 Richard II.