Norway – Alpine Flowers of the Gol Plateau Naturetrek Tour Report 29 June - 6 July 2019 Cranberry Bluethroat Pearl-bordered Fritillary Yellow Saxifrage Report by Jessica Turner Images courtesy of Diana Warwick Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Norway – Alpine flowers of the Gol Plateau Tour Report Tour Participants: Jessica Turner (leader) with seven Naturetrek clients Summary The Gol Plateau of west-central Norway has a delightful flora and fauna. We explored a variety of habitats: meadows, open woodland, moor, arctic heath and bog, plus the rocky slopes of Skogshorn, a local mountain. The abundant willows showed soft greens and greys, with the dark-blue of emerging Northern Wolf’s-bane, and we enjoyed the delicate pink Twinflower, reportedly Linnaeus’s favourite flower. A wonderful mass of lichens added extra interest. Venturing further afield, we sampled ‘Norway in a Nutshell’, including Borgund stave- church, near where we saw fine specimens of Pyramidal Saxifrage clinging to rock faces, with sprays of white flowers, and the fascinating Flåm railway (where it snowed!). Cranes were regularly feeding in the field by the hotel, coming very close at dawn and acting as alarm clocks for some of the group. We were also very fortunate to have several sightings of Elk, crossing or near the road, including a young male which stood on the verge and watched us for several minutes, plus some lovely views of Bluethroats. Excellent hospitality, delicious food and great company all added up to an extremely enjoyable week. Day 1 Saturday 29th June Fly Heathrow to Oslo – Transfer to Kamben Three group members met Jessica at Heathrow Terminal 5 for the 7.35am British Airways flight BA762 to Oslo Gardermoen. After a smooth flight with some lovely views, we landed ahead of schedule. Having collected our bags, we met up with the remaining four group members before meeting Martin, the co-proprietor of the hotel who was also our driver. We quickly loaded our luggage into the vehicle and made our way out of the airport and onto the E16, the main Bergen road. As we went, we enjoyed the colourful patches of Large-leaved Lupin (Lupinus polyphyllus), Ox-eye Daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare), Red Campion (Silene dioica) and the darker pink, more compact flowers of Sticky Catchfly (Silene viscosa). We also noted a couple of Common Buzzards, Hooded Crow, Magpie and Fieldfares. Our route took us north-west from the capital, passing through Jevnaker, the outskirts of Hønefoss and along the east side of the beautiful Sperillen fjord, where we saw a group of Black-throated Divers. After a little more than an hour, we made a stop for our hotel-provided picnic at Nes i Ådal, where we enjoyed the warm sun. Here we found Ternate Cinquefoil (Potentilla norvegica), Tufted Vetch (Vicia cracca) and Bladder Campion (Silene dioica), while Swallows and Swifts flew overhead, and a Painted Lady butterfly flitted around. We continued our journey on to Aurdal, where we turned south-west through Mønin and up towards the Gol Plateau, and on up to Golsfjellet and the Kamben Høyfjellshotell, our base for the week. Many of the verges were bright with Wood Crane’s-bill (Geranium sylvaticum) and we could see snow on the distant mountains. As we approached the hotel, a young Elk crossed the road in front of us, and we had good views as it crossed a meadow and stood in a glade in the forest. On our arrival at our hotel, we were welcomed by Elin, the co- proprietor. After we had settled into our rooms, we met to explore the hotel grounds. Two Mountain Hares were in the field behind the hotel, still showing white on their legs and ear tips; we had some lovely views of them. Plants included Alpine Cinquefoil (Potentilla crantzii), Heartsease (Viola tricolor), Common Juniper (Juniperus communis), Downy Willow (Salix lapponum), Caraway (Carum carvi), not quite out, and the mountain form of Heath Dog © Naturetrek November 19 Norway – Alpine flowers of the Gol Plateau Tour Report Violet (Viola canina subsp. montana). There were many spikes of Northern Wolf’s-bane (Aconitum septentrionale), but unfortunately, still in bud. Along the road we added the star-like Chickweed Wintergreen (Trientalis europaea), Large Bitter-cress (Cardamine amara) and the Alpine Penny-cress Thlaspi caerulescens. Several Painted Ladies and Green-veined Whites were on the wing, the latter showing the dusky veins of the northern form; Speckled Yellow moth was seen, and Willow Warbler and Cuckoo were calling. We met again at 6.30pm to start our lists and Jessica outlined plans for the week. We then enjoyed a delicious dinner. Afterwards, enjoying the still-bright evening light, several wandered outside where we had further good views of the Mountain Hares. Scanning the distant fields, we picked up two Common Cranes with a youngster, which we could see clearly through the telescope in the perfect light. After a long day, we then retired for some welcome rest. Later, a group of 11 Common Cranes were seen very much closer, on a bare area of ground in the field behind the hotel. Day 2 Sunday 30th June Hallingen - Skutuset - Brautemo Some of the group were woken this morning by the Common Cranes calling very close to their rooms, and Common Quail was also calling from the field behind the hotel. Our first full day of the tour was spent exploring the boreal forests of the Gol Plateau. Leaving the hotel at 9am, we were driven by Martin the short distance down the track towards Hallingen, where he dropped us at the beginning of the path leading to the settlement of Skutuset. We started by looking at two of the Willows common in the area, Downy Willow (Salix lapponica) and Salix starkeana. There was plenty of the delicate Chickweed Wintergreen (Trientalis europaea) and Small Cow-wheat (Melampyrum sylvaticum). A little further on, we added Alpine Speedwell (Veronica alpina), One-flowered Wintergreen (Moneses uniflora), Oak Fern (Gymnocarpium dryopteris) and the tiny Lesser Twayblade (Neottia cordata), with a few plants in flower. In an open bog we recorded Cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccos), which we noted growing mainly on the raised, mossy hummocks, Bog Rosemary (Andromeda polifolia), Marsh Lousewort (Pedicularis palustris), and an Early Marsh Orchid (Dactylorhiza incarnata subsp. pulchella). Where it was slightly drier around the edge, we added Cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus) and Nodding Wintergreen (Orthillia secunda). Willow Warblers and Chaffinches were singing. We continued along the path, looking for blue markers, through the understorey of Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus), Bog Bilberry (V. uliginosum), Cowberry (V. vitis-idaea) and occasional Crowberry (Empetrum nigrum), noting the differences and similarities between them. We also found some Blue Heath (Phyllodoce caerulea), a group of Coralroot Orchids (Corallorhiza trifida), and the seeding heads of Arctic Butterbur (Petasites frigidus). The building clouds gave some rain and a thunderstorm rumbled around, although not too near. In a more open area, we found a beautiful bank of Heartsease (Viola tricolor), with mainly purple flowers, and Caraway (Carum carvi). In another wet area, we found Starry Saxifrage (Saxifraga stellata), Large Bitter-cress (Cardamine amara) and more Common Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris). We had our picnic on a rise, overlooking the mountains, enjoying the light, but also seeing some dramatic flashes of lightning. The path came out onto a minor road at the small hamlet of Skutuset. Here, some of the Northern Wolf’s-bane (Aconitum septentrionale) was in flower, while a roadside wood held the white-flowered buttercup Ranunculus © Naturetrek November 19 Norway – Alpine flowers of the Gol Plateau Tour Report platanifolius, Herb-Paris (Paris quadrifolia) and Whorled Solomon’s-seal (Polygonatum verticillatum). From Skutuset we turned south, with Fieldfares and a Redwing singing from the top of a tree. The path led towards the village of Brautemo, passing through more boreal forest littered with lichen-covered rocky outcrops interspersed with more wet flushes, mires and streams. Here, we found a nice patch of Blue Heath and one spike of the moorland- dwelling Heath Fragrant Orchid (Gymnadenia borealis). Amongst the amazing range of lichens, Star Reindeer Lichen (Cladonia stellaris) looked like masses of pale grey cauliflower heads; Red Elf-cup (Cladonia coccifera) bore scarlet fruiting bodies; and Bryoria fuscescens looked like tufts of Elk hair caught on twigs. The weather brightened, and in the warm sunshine, butterflies were active. We managed to identify Pearl-bordered Fritillary and Cranberry Fritillary, although they rarely sat still, and a Red Admiral was noted. Siskin was heard and then seen at the top of a tree. Near the road, we added a rather battered Green Hairstreak and Geranium Argus, the latter on Wood Crane’s-bill (Geranium sylvaticum), together with the dramatically marked micro moth, White-spotted Sable. Northern Bedstraw (Galium boreale) was near the road, and a Siberian Jay was seen briefly by some. Martin soon arrived to collect us, and return us to the hotel, where we had some time to relax before completing our lists for a fascinating first full day and enjoying another excellent dinner. During the meal, a Cuckoo perched briefly in the tree just outside and, later, two Cranes were seen distantly but clearly through the telescope. Later still, the flock of Cranes was seen in the field as on the previous night, and also a Red Fox was seen. Day 3 Monday 1st July Skutuset – Syningen – Storefjell - Kamben We woke to another fine morning and, once again, three Cranes were seen nearby. After breakfast, we were taken to the small hamlet of Skutuset that we had touched the previous day.