UawMM «5S5= »n<- mi ^ « >ft##g 1^ .it @ T3T M76 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028609927 MAEOCCO THE GEEAT ATLAS 'jk ' ( I I * 4 \- --^^ ' 1* J!" > \ r ' I f p 4' 5. 1 'r .> 1^ r liK s. 1 Is JOURXAL OF A TOUE IN MAEOCCO AND THE GEEAT ATLAS BY JOSEPH DALTON HOOKEE, K.C.S.I., C.B. PRE3. R. S. DIRECTOR OF THE ROYAL QARDENH, KEW ; ETC. AN1> JOHN BALL, E.E.S., M.E.I.A. WITH AN APPENDIX including I SKBTfH of the OEOLOriV of MAROOCO, hy GEORGE MA II', F.L.S., F.G.S. M A C M I L L A N AND CO. 1S7S .1 (I rights reserved 1)— % A.i.'^X ^ V^ ) PBEFACE. The expedition of which an account is given in the fol- lowing pages was undertaken in the year 1871, and it was originally intended that a narrative of the proceedings should be given to the public soon after our return to England. Sir Joseph D. Hooker, who made careful notes throughout the journey, hoped to complete the work without much delay, and actually wrote the greater part of the first two chapters ; but the constant demands upon his time arising from his official duties at Kew, and the important botanical works to which he is a chief con- tributor, further increased by his election, in 1873, to the Presidency of the Eoyal Society, so far interfered with the completion of the original design as to compel him to re- quest his fellow-traveller, Mr. Ball, to undertake the com- pletion of the work. The latter was at the time engaged in preparing for publication a memoir on the Flora of Marocco, which has since appeared in the Journal of the Linnaean Society, wherein the botanical collections made during the journey are enumerated and described ; and bis performance of the task allotted to him has been further delayed by several prolonged absences from England. As regards many countries visited by travellers a delay of several years in publication might seriously affect the vi PEEFACE. accuracy of a narrative intended to represent the ex- isting condition of the country and its inhabitants ; but in the case of Marocco, where, from a comparison with the accounts of early travellers, no notable change is apparent during the last two centuries, the effect of a few years' interval may be considered insensible. Up to the date of our visit the Great Atlas was little better known to geographers than it was in the time of Strabo and Pliny ; and it may be hoped that whatever interest be- longs to our journey is as great now as it was at the moment of our return. The narrative now published is mainly founded on the journals kept by Sir J. Hooker and Mr. Ball, supplemented in some particulars by that of our fellow-traveller, Mr. Gr. Maw. To the latter we owe a sketch of the Geology of Marocco, which appears in the Appendix. Along with this we have published some interesting contributions received from Mr. H. B. Brady and Mr. Freeman Eogers, as well as some papers upon various matters connected with the physical geography and the flora of Marocco. It is impossible to present these pages to the public without repeating the expression of our obligations to eome of those to whose assistance we largely owe whatever success we were able to attain. Foremost amongst these we must name H. E. Sir John Drummond Hay, K.C.B., British Minister Plenipotentiary in Marocco. From the moment when, in compliance with the request of Sir J. Hooker, Lord Granville, then Foreign Secretary, instructed our Minister to apply for the permission of the Sultan to visit the Great Atlas, Sir J. D. Hay, by his extensive knowledge of the country and the people, and by his great personal influence, afforded invaluable assistance to the expedition. PEEFACE. vii We were also much indebted for assistance and hospi- tality to the British Consular agents on the Marocco coast, and especially to the late Mr. Carstensen, then Vice-Consul at Mogador. We should not omit our acknowledgments of the courtesy and valuable information received from the late M. Beaumier, French Consul at the same port. We trust that in the course of the following pages we have not omitted to express our thanks to other friends who have kindly contributed valuable information. The scope of this volume being mainly to give an account of our personal experience and observations, we have used, but sparingly, other materials, which might be in place if we had aimed at the production of a work of a more elaborate character. ———A CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Voyage to Gibraltar—View of Tangier—Interior of the town Portuguese and English occupation—Hospitable reception by Sir John Drummond Hay — Kavensrock— Government of Marocco— Climate of North Marocco—Exceptional season The Djebel Kebir and its vegetation—Oistus and Heath region—Cape Spartel—Night at the Lighthouse—Cave of Hercules—Arab village—Return to Tangier . CHAPTER II. Start for Tetuan—Vegetation of the low country—Serpent charmers—Twilight in the forest—The Fondak — Stormy night on the roof—Breakfast on the hiU—Riff Mountains— Governor in chains—Fate of high officials in Marocco—Valley of Tetuan—Jew quarter of the city—Ascent of the Beni Hosmar—Vegetation of the mountain—A quiet day—Jewish population—Ride to Oeuta—Spanish campaign in Marocco Fortifications of Ceuta—Return to European civilisation Spanish convict stations in Africa . .25 CHAPTER III. Sail to Algeciras—Vegetation of the neighbouring hills— Com- parison between the opposite sides of the Strait of Gibraltar Return to Tangier—Troubles of a botanist—Fez pottery Voyage in French steamer—Rabat and Sallee— Land at Casa Blanca—Vegetation of the neighbourhood—Humidity of the coast climate—Mazagan—View of Saffi . .58 — CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Arrival at Mogador—The Sultan's letter—Preparations for our journey—The town of Mogador—The neighbouring country Ravages of locusts—Native races of South Marocco—Excur- sion to the island—Climate of Mogador—Its influence on consiunption—Dinner with the Governor . .75 CHAPTER V. Departure from Mogador—Argan forest—Hilly country of Haha —Fertile province of Shedma—^Hospitality of the Goverijor —Turkish visitor—Offering of provisions—Kashah of the Governor—Ride to Ain Oumast—First view of the Great Atlas—Pseudo-Sahara—Tomh of a saint—Nzelas—Ascend the ' Camel's Back '—Oasis of Sheahaoua—Coolness of the night temperature—Rarity of ancient buildings—Halt at Ain Beida—Tents and luggage gone astray—Night at Misra ben Kara—Cross the Cued Nfys—Plain of Marocco—Range of the Great Atlas Halt under . — tamarisk tree . ,95 CHAPTER VI. Approach to the city of Marocco—Pleasant encounter—Halt in an olive garden—Interior of the city—Difficulty as to lodg- ing—Governor unfriendly—Camp in the great square—Nego- tiations with the Viceroy—Successful result—Palace of Ben Dreis—Diplomatic difficulties —Gardens of Marocco—Inter- view with El Graoui ...... 125 CHAPTER VII. Choice of a route in the Atlas—Difficulty of procuring inform- ation—Hills near the city—Panorama of the Great Atlas Probable height of the range—Wild birds of Marocco—Con- dition of the Jews—Departure from the city—Farewell inter- view with El Graoui—District of Mesfloua—Interview with the Kaid—Approach to the Great Atlas—Aspect of the vegetation — Castle of Tasseremout—Washing-ton's visit Jewish suppliants—Great boulder mounds—Ourika valley— I'eculiarities of Moorish character—Rapacity of our escort . 140 —A CONTENTS. 'xi CHAPTER VIII. PAGE Vegetation of Ourika valley—Destruction of tlie native ti'ees Our progress checked—Enforced return—Shelluk village Eide from Ourika to Keraya—Trouble with our escort— friendly Shelluh sheik—Native desire for medical advice Characteristics of the Shelluhs—Zaouia of Moulai Ibrahim Camp in Ait Mesan valley^Excursion to the head of the valley—Reach the snow—Night travelling in the Atlas . 175 CHAPTER IX. The Shelluh sheik bribed — Arrangements for stopping at Arround —Medical practice among the Shelluhs—Arabic cor- respondence—Unexpected difficulty—Strange fancies of the natives—Threatening weather—Our house at Arround Gloomy morning—Saint's tomb—Escape from our guides Strange encounter—Snow-storm—Tagherot pass—Descent to Arround—Continuance of bad weather—Sacrifice of a sheep —Shelluh mountaineers—Fauna of the Great Atlas—Return to Ilasni—Deplorable condition of our camp . 207 CHAPTER X. Departure from Hasni—Plateau of Sektana—Grand view of the Great Atlas—Departure of Maw—Village of Gurgouri—In- trigues of Kaid el Hasbi—Passage of the Oued Nfys—An-ival at Amsmiz—Friendly Governor— Difficulties as to further progress—Position of Amsmiz—Sleeping quarters in the Kasbah—Fanatical sheik — Shelluh market—View of the Amsmiz valley—Village of Imieteli—Friendly Jews—Geo- logical structure and vegetation of the valley—Sheik's oppo- sition overcome—Ascent of Djebel Tezah—The guide left behind—View from the summit—Anti-Atlas seen at last Deserted dwellings on the peak—Ancient oak forest—Rapid descent—Night ride to Iminteli .... 23t) CHAPTER XI. Return to Amsmiz—Arround villagers in trouble—Pains and pleasures of a botanist—Ride across the plain—Mzouda— Experiences of a Governor in Marocco—Hospitable chief of — ii CONTENTS. JAGK Keira—A village in excitement—Arrival at Seksaoua—^Fresh difficulties as to our route—A faithful black soldier—Rock vegetation at Seksaoua—Ascent of a neighbouring mountain —View of the Great Atlas—Absence of perpetual snow Return of our envoy from Mtouga—Pass leading to Tarudant —Native names for the mountains—Milhain—Botanising in the rocks .