Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Graduate Theses and Dissertations Dissertations 2014 Female presidents of Bonwit Teller: Hortense Odlum (1934-40) and Mildred Custin (1965-70) Michael Eugene Mamp Iowa State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd Part of the History Commons, and the Women's Studies Commons Recommended Citation Mamp, Michael Eugene, "Female presidents of Bonwit Teller: Hortense Odlum (1934-40) and Mildred Custin (1965-70)" (2014). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. 13733. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd/13733 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Dissertations at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Female presidents of Bonwit Teller: Hortense Odlum (1934-40) and Mildred Custin (1965-70) By Michael Mamp A dissertation submitted to the graduate faculty in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Major: Apparel, Merchandising and Design Program of Study Committee: Sara Marcketti, Major Professor Mary Lynn Damhorst Eulanda Sanders Teresa Paschke John Monroe Iowa State University Ames, Iowa 2014 Copyright © Michael Mamp, 2014. All rights reserved. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF FIGURES ....................................................................................................................... iv ABSTRACT .................................................................................................................................. vii CHAPTER ONE: General Introduction .......................................................................................... 1 Introduction ......................................................................................................................... 1 Dissertation Organization ................................................................................................... 2 Research Questions ............................................................................................................. 3 Definition of Terms ............................................................................................................. 4 Limitations .......................................................................................................................... 5 CHAPTER TWO: Literature Review ............................................................................................. 6 American Department Stores .............................................................................................. 6 Women’s Roles and the Department Store ....................................................................... 10 Distinctively American Service ........................................................................................ 11 Consumption Culture in America ..................................................................................... 12 Beautiful Goods & The Show Window ............................................................................ 14 Enticing Customers ........................................................................................................... 16 Visual Display Origins .......................................................................................... 16 New York and the Ready-to-Wear Industry ..................................................................... 23 Bonwit Beginnings ............................................................................................................ 24 The Great Depression ....................................................................................................... 30 Atlas to the Rescue ............................................................................................................ 32 Hortense Odlum ................................................................................................................ 36 Mildred Custin & 1960s Youthquake ............................................................................... 36 Women in Retail ............................................................................................................... 38 Conclusions ....................................................................................................................... 38 References ......................................................................................................................... 41 CHAPTER THREE: Hortense Odlum: Bonwit Teller’s First Female President, 1934-40 In preparation for Dress: The Journal of The Costume Society of America ................................. 45 Abstract ............................................................................................................................. 45 Introduction ....................................................................................................................... 46 Methods ............................................................................................................................. 49 Background ....................................................................................................................... 50 Humble Beginnings .............................................................................................. 50 An Unexpected Request ........................................................................................ 51 A New Point of View ............................................................................................ 52 Strategies for Improved Business ..................................................................................... 54 Store Improvement and Expansion ....................................................................... 54 Diversified Pricing, Assortment and Services ...................................................... 56 iii Salon de Couture ................................................................................................... 56 Rendezvous & Debutante ..................................................................................... 57 College Girls Department ..................................................................................... 58 Beauty Salon ......................................................................................................... 59 721 Club ................................................................................................................ 60 Smart Woman’s Angle ...................................................................................................... 62 Consumer and Employee Committees .................................................................. 63 Goals Achieved ..................................................................................................... 64 Conclusions: Who is Really the First? Forgotten Women ................................................ 65 Endnotes ............................................................................................................................ 66 Selected Bibliography ....................................................................................................... 72 Figures ............................................................................................................................... 74 CHAPTER FOUR: Peacocks Roosting: Mildred Custin introduced menswear to Bonwit Teller of the 1960s and led the organization through a period of phenomenal success In preparation for Fashion, Style and Popular Culture ................................................................ 87 Abstract ............................................................................................................................. 87 Introduction ....................................................................................................................... 88 Methods ............................................................................................................................. 89 Early Career ...................................................................................................................... 89 1960s Style ........................................................................................................................ 91 Peacock Revolution .......................................................................................................... 95 Women’s Fashions ............................................................................................................ 99 Conclusions ..................................................................................................................... 102 References ....................................................................................................................... 104 Figures ............................................................................................................................. 107 CHAPTER FIVE: General Conclusions ..................................................................................... 115 General Discussions ........................................................................................................ 115 Recommendations for Future Research .......................................................................... 117 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .......................................................................................................