HOME TOURING OBAN BAY Colourful houses in Tobermory WATCH Oban is a great base from which to explore Scotland’s west coast and islands, says Don Jolly INFORMATION SITE North Ledaig Caravan Club Site, Connel, Oban PA37 1RU. Call 01631 710291. For full details, see p250 of the Sites Directory & Handbook 2009/10. MULL, IONA AND MORE As you admire the view from the Club’s North Ledaig site across Ardmucknish Bay to Mull’s mountainous silhouette, you may find it hard to resist the urge to visit. If so, CalMac ferries regularly depart from Oban to the island, 45 minutes away. Mull is noted for its wildlife, and you can join safaris to see golden eagles, sea eagles, deer, otters, seals, dolphins, whales and basking sharks, or, if you want to stretch your legs, climb the highest peak, Ben More (3169ft). The island’s capital, Tobermory, with its whisky distillery and colourful quayside cottages, is 20 miles north of the ferry port, while 35 slow miles west, you can take the passenger ferry (it also carries bikes) from Fionnphort to holy Iona, where the abbey is revered as Scotland’s ‘Cradle of Christianity’. CalMac (call 01475 650100 or see calmac.co.uk) also runs full-day island cruises from Oban taking in combinations from Mull, Iona, Staffa (site of The Waverley takes tourists on day-long excursions Fingal’s Cave), the Treshnish Isles, Coll and Tiree. DID YOU KNOW? ‘Oban’ means HE FERRY port of Oban – MacDougall stronghold devastated by Chocolate Company’s factory, before Lora, created when the sea level in the Firth A romantic dinner on the ‘littleGaelic bay’ in Gateway to the Isles and unofficial Covenanters in 1647, or to the highest indulging in its creations at the of Lorn drops below the level of Loch Etive. terrace overlooking the loch as T capital of Scotland’s West point, Carn Breugach, which offers superb manufacturer’s seafront cafe. With such The water in the loch pours over a rocky the sun goes down is hard to beat. ❖ Highlands – occupies a scenic setting at the panoramas from its 620ft summit. luxury amid the natural beauty, you would shelf which, especially during ebbing spring Creagan is the start of an area called foot of the mountains of Lorn, well Farther offshore, long, narrow Lismore is think there was no place for conflict, but tides, forms spectacular whitewater rapids Appin, featured in Robert Louis sheltered from Atlantic storms by the connected to Oban by car ferry, but a bigger Oban also has a War and Peace Museum. attracting adventurous kayakers. You can Stevenson’s novel Kidnapped, dealing with islands it serves. barrier to westerly winds is the island of Centred on the town’s role as a Second watch the action from shore or bridge, or murder and clan feuds following the The closest of those, little Kerrera, just a Mull, also reached by car ferry (see panel). World War flying boat base, the museum from the comfort of the Oyster Inn, south Jacobite rebellion. Thankfully, the area is few hundred yards away, is reached by If you want to explore the coast, a novel also includes sections on the town’s fishing of the bridge, or the Lochnell Arms, off the more peaceful now. Ordnance Survey Landranger Map 49 passenger ferry from Gallanach, just south- way is to take a day-long excursion aboard and maritime histories. main road in North Connel. Charming Port Appin, the main west of Oban. There’s good walking on the the Waverley. Five days every May, the Overlooking the Firth of Lorn at Across the bridge, a minor right turn settlement, sits opposite the island of island, to Gylen Castle for example, a venerable paddle steamer sails from Oban, Dunbeg, north of Oban, the 13th-century alongside Loch Etive leads to the Lismore – a passenger ferry makes hourly each day visiting different Hebridean Dunstaffnage Castle once guarded one of 13th-century Ardchattan Priory and crossings if you fancy walking or cycling destinations (see waverleyexcursions.co.uk western Scotland’s most important sea Gardens. Open to the public, the priory is there. When you return, at the Pierhouse for details). lanes. Robert the Bruce captured it once, largely in ruins, while the gardens owe their Hotel’s restaurant you can tuck into the Oban itself is not without its charms, or and during the Jacobite uprising in 1745 it present layout to Victorian design. Giant Platter, ‘a true celebration of local eccentricities. Most visible is McCaig’s was garrisoned by government troops. Near Benderloch, Barcaldine Castle, a seafood’. If £65 for two seems steep, Tower, a coliseum-like structure sitting on Though its 15th-century gatehouse is 17th-century tower house turned bed and cheaper options are available. the ridge above the town like a crown. closed, the castle itself can be visited, breakfast, is in an attractive leafy setting Near Port Appin, on an islet in Loch Intended as a museum and art gallery, it along with a roofless chapel in nearby while, a couple of miles north, the Scottish Laich, Castle Stalker looks wonderful, remained unfinished after the local woods, which contains tombs of Sea Life Sanctuary, beside Loch Creran, especially when seen from near the Castle businessman who commissioned it died in Campbell clan members. makes a great wet-weather attraction. Stalker View Café, on the hill beyond 1902. Its circular wall now contains a Along the coast, a cantilever bridge Containing hundreds of creatures, Portnacroish. Built around 1495, the garden from which impressive seascapes linking Connel with North Connel at the including sharks, rays, seals, crabs, lobsters stronghold was fought over by the can be enjoyed. entrance to the 18-mile-long Loch Etive and otters, it’s a must for children. Stewarts and Campbells before being The town has a whisky distillery that stands incongruous amid the beauty. Built Farther north, approaching Creagan, the abandoned for 200 years. It was restored hosts regular tours and tastings. in 1903 as a railway bridge, it was road crosses Loch Creran and shortly in the 1960s and is open to the public Alternatively, those with a sweet tooth converted to carry cars when the line reaches the stylish Creagan Inn, which on selected days between May and Barcaldine Castle Oban – Gateway to the Isles can see chocolatiers at work at the Oban closed. Below the bridge are the Falls of looks pricey but is actually excellent value. September, subject to tides and weather. n 28 The Caravan Club Magazine January 2010 The Caravan Club Magazine 29.