Contents Glen Canyon Unit ............................................................................................................................2 Project Location...................................................................................................................3 Historic Setting ....................................................................................................................4 Project Authorization .........................................................................................................8 Pre-Construction ................................................................................................................14 Construction.......................................................................................................................21 Project Benefits and Uses of Project Water.......................................................................31 Conclusion .........................................................................................................................36 Notes ..................................................................................................................................39 Bibliography ......................................................................................................................46 Index ..................................................................................................................................52 Glen Canyon Unit The Glen Canyon Unit, located along the Colorado River in north central Arizona and south central Utah, is one of the more geographically isolated, largest, and most expensive reclamation units ever constructed by the Bureau of Reclamation. It took nearly eight years for crews to top the dam at its height of 710 feet, and another two years for completion of the powerplant. One of four major storage reservoirs along the Colorado and its tributaries as part of the Colorado River Storage Project Act of 1956 (or CRSP), the dam impounds 27,000,000 acre feet—nearly the storage capacity of Hoover Dam—and generates enormous amounts of hydroelectric power for the West. In addition to its remarkable construction, Glen Canyon Dam is interesting because of its rich and controversial social and political history. This is in large part because Glen Canyon Dam means different things to different people. To people who reflect a postwar environmental ethic, the dam and the flatwaters of Lake Powell unnecessarily defile a canyon with striking beauty and serenity, but others believe, with Commissioner Floyd Dominy, that Lake Powell is the “Jewel of the Colorado” and a needed resource for storing water and producing electric energy. The differences in perspective have resulted in much conflict and continue to the present day. Few, if any, large-scale reclamation projects have generated as much controversy and emotion as Glen Canyon Dam and its reservoir, Lake Powell. Glen Canyon Unit Jedediah Rogers Bureau of Reclamation, 2006 Page2 2 Project Location The canyon country of the Colorado Plateau is about as remote as you can get in the contiguous United States. In the 1950s and 1960s, San Juan County—the county directly east of Glen Canyon in southeastern Utah—had only a few paved roads, and most of these lay on the northern end of the county. The country west of the Colorado River where it flows through Glen Canyon is even more inaccessible than that—a terrain of broken plateaus and barren desert. The region surrounding Glen Canyon is lonely and desolate, with only intermittent signs of human activity. However remote, this is a majestic and breathtaking place. Clear, dark-blue starlit skies, vast vistas, monumental geologic formations—the project construction engineer of the Glen Canyon Unit, L. F. Wylie, called it “an area unmatched for pure scenic beauty”: The long geologic evolution of the Colorado Plateau has produced colorful valleys punctuated by towering monoliths, craggy-toothed edges of eroded monoclinal folds, domes, and uplifts—all occasionally shattered open by gorges gouged hundreds of feet deep into the earth. Nature’s paintpot has splashed the panorama with colors ranging the spectrum from Vermillion Cliffs to chalk-white Castle Rocks, with changing colors each hour of the day—at night turning into a weird, spectral goblinland under moonlight.i Such a description is hardly hyperbole—the region cut by the flow of the Colorado today boasts an international reputation and a half dozen national parks and numerous national monuments. The real centerpiece of the Colorado Plateau is the river itself, 2000 miles long, originating in its tributaries in Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, and Wyoming and reaching all the way to Mexico. Over many stretches of the river—notably through Cataract Canyon and the Grand Canyon—the flow is rough, but through Glen Canyon the river quite calm. River Glen Canyon Unit Jedediah Rogers Bureau of Reclamation, 2006 Page3 3 afficionados laud its “serene” and “placid” qualities (its mild elevation drop is the reason a large reservoir at Glen Canyon would extend 180 miles upstream), but they also point out that its current is deceptively strong. As river runner Dick Sprang said, “The Colorado in Glen always found a channel through the broad areas of the river where many underwater sandbars existed. You really had to be on your toes and a darn good water reader in low water stages to find the channel through that morass of barely-below-the-surface sand bars, and when you did find that channel the river was swift in there and extremely powerful.”ii The site of the dam, 15 miles north of Lee’s Ferry, Arizona, is a narrow gorge cut by the Colorado, its canyon walls and foundation made of sandstone and shale. Historic Setting Human occupation of north central Arizona dates back to prehistoric times when nomadic and semi-nomadic bands of hunter-gathers roamed through the region. Occasionally these people planted crops along the streams and rivers of the area, but the success of their agricultural endeavors were less than certain in this desert country. The Fremont and Anasazi farmed on a small scale in the region but were gone by 1300 A.D., probably due to drought or war. Navajo and Hopi Indians either lived or visited the region, the latter sometimes making religious visits to Navajo Mountain region, though it is unlikely that they made forays into the canyon before the 1800s.iii Generally, the canyon and the surrounding region remained uninhabited, formidable barriers through harsh and unforgiving land, even for indigenous peoples who sometimes Glen Canyon Unit Jedediah Rogers Bureau of Reclamation, 2006 Page4 4 inhabited the river bottom. The earliest white people who stumbled upon the canyon and the Colorado passed through as quickly as possible. The first Europeans to see the canyon were probably Francisco Atanasio Dominguez and Silvestre Velez de Escalante, Franciscan Fathers who in 1776 set out from Santa Fe to forge an overland route to the California missions at Monterey. By fall, due to early snowfall, the Catholic party decided to turned back near Cedar City in a southeasterly direction. The Spaniards made two unsuccessful attempts to cross the river at what is now Lee’s Ferry in Marble Canyon. So they traveled upstream and, at the mouth of Padre Creek, found a suitable place to cross. The descent to the river was steep, so they carved steps into the stone to enable the company and pack animals to descend down the steep slope. For many years, before John D. Lee established his ferry in 1872, the site known as the Crossing of the Fathers was sometimes used by Indians, Mexican traders, and American fur trappers.iv The famed, one-arm geologist and explorer John Wesley Powell made two trips down the Colorado River, the first in 1869, and again in 1871-72. Powell and his men welcomed the mild currents through Glen Canyon after a tiring and harrowing ordeal through Cataract Canyon, but the party spent little time in the canyon. Some of their place names stuck: Dirty Devil River, Music Temple, the Henry Mountains, and Glen Canyon itself. Intrigued with the geologic formations and historic artifacts of Glen Canyon, Powell cached one of his boats near the Dirty Devil to be used in 1872 for a scientific survey.v Mormons, the religious group which created an empire in the inter-mountain West, also passed through. Jacob Hamblin forded the Colorado at the Crossing of the Fathers en route to Glen Canyon Unit Jedediah Rogers Bureau of Reclamation, 2006 Page5 5 preaching the gospel to the Hopis. In the late 1870s, Brigham Young and his successor, John Taylor, set in motion the first Mormon settlement in southeastern Utah and northern Arizona. A company of hardy pioneers—about 250 people including women and children—set out from the small community of Escalante, Utah, in a southeasterly direction, skirting the Kaiparowits Plateau to their destination at Montezuma Creek on the east side of the Colorado. The company crossed the Colorado at a place now known as Hole-in-the-Rock, where it took six weeks in late 1879 and early 1880 to construct a road through a steep, narrow channel and to lower the wagons one by one down to the river bottom. In all, their travels took six months, finally ending when it was decided to settle at what they would call Bluff City on the San Juan River.vi Mormons established several settlements in the southeastern corner of the Territory of Utah, but not until the late nineteenth century were attempts made to establish permanent or