TM most practical multi-pitch solution v1.0 Tuolumne Meadows The beautiful rounded domes of Tuolumne Meadows offer some of the best moderate granite climbing any- where. Located within the Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne is a good choice if you want to escape the heat and the crowds of the Yosemite Valley, and climb in a peaceful and quiet setting during the summer months. Tuolumne is simply an amazing place of solitude and beauty, where exquisite climbing opportunities await on some of the best granite in North America. The massive granite domes and other high peaksMt areOlympus situated at an altitude of 8600 feet, where the air is cool and crisp, and the skies are clear. Tuolumne is more peaceful, relaxing, and quiet than the Valley, and you’ll be happy to be climbing in a cool alpine breeze when it’s 100+ degrees everywhere else. After a long day of climb- ing on perfect glacier polished granite, go take a hike accross the meadow, hang out at the beach at Tenaya Lake, cool down in the river or enjoy a local beer and a burger at the grill. Tuolumne Meadows is simply the perfect summer climbing destination. Daff Lamb Dome N Dome W to Lee Vining E S Low Profile Dome Drug The Meadows Lembert Tioga Dome Dome Lake Stately Tioga Pleasure Fairview Pass Dome Dome Mariuolumne Visitor Third Dome Tuolumne Center Park Pillar to Yosemite Meadows Valley Pywiack Tuolumne Campground Entrance Dome Cathedral Meadows Peak Store Tenaya Cathedral Budd Lakes Lake Lake Tenaya Peak North Dome Matthes Crest For more information on classic Tuolumne Meadows climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com For more information on classic Tuolumne Meadows climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com Climbing The climbing in Tuolumne is simply spectacular. Wether you’re an expert or a beginner, climbing on a dome or a high peak, cragging, sport climbing or bouldering, you’ll get that High Sierra Country, alpine feeling that makes Tuolumne such a great place to climb. The granite is well featured, very solid and incredibly clean, ranging in color from white to gold. Knobs or crys- tals are spread all over the faces, and can range in size from a grain of salt to a huge jug. Flakes, cracks and dihedrals are also found on most climbs and usually offer adequate protection. The climbing in Tuolumne is generally technical and balancy, demanding precise footwork and good smearing technique. Climbing in Tuolumne offers a great mix of face, cracks of all sizes, knobs, slabs and edges that will challenge the most accomplished climbers. Sometimes, the sparse protection will add a mental dimension that will make a route even more memorable. But don’t let the reputation of being runout, and poorly protected with old rusty 1/4 inch bolts stop you from climbing in Tuolumne. In recent years, many bolts and anchors have been replaced on the most popular climbs, and most routes usually protect well. However, true Tuolumne style routes can feel very runout to some, and it takes some time to get use to it. You should carefuly study a route before jumping on it, especially if the route is rated runout. Many routes don’t have fixed anchors, and you should be experienced at building your own solid belays on gear. This also means that retreat can be difficult on most routes, so be prepared to leave slings and gear behind in case. Routes can vary a lot from one to the other: long to short, runout to well protected, steep to low angle, finger cracks to offwidth chimneys, secure to scary, etc... The diversity is all part of the Tuolumne experience! Climbing gear Because the climbing in Tuolumne is so diverse, you’ll need a variety of pieces in your rack, and each climb will demand a different selection of gear. In general, most anchors are built on pro, so have plenty of various sizes and double in some key sizes to build solid anchors. It’s also a good idea to bring long slings to tie around trees and blocks. The cracks of Tuolumne usually take nuts very well, so bring a good assortment and a double set is useful on some climbs. A set of smaller micro nuts, like the HB brass offsets is also a good addition to your rack. Make sure to have a good selection of cams as well: double set of micro cams and double on regular sizes should be plenty. On most routes, you’ll need cams up to a ” to 3”, but the occasional wider crack will demand bigger pieces. For the face climbing and slab sections, some bolts will be encountered and some pitches tend to tra- verse and/or wander a bit, so bring a few quickdraws and long runners. Occasionally, an old bolt or piton may be encountered and it is important to inspect them carefully before committing to them. Use good judgement and common sense when using sketchy fixed protection. As far as ropes, a 70 m rope will help you move faster, climb longer pitches, and possibly past slower parties more easily, but a 60 m will work fine for most routes. If you plan to rappel and/or retreat, it is always a good idea to have two 60 m ropes with you, and some extra webbing. Most multi-pitch routes require walking-off the back or the side of a dome, sometimes down steep and exposed 3rd/4th class polished slabs, and some will choose to do the walk-off in their climbing shoes. However, it is a good idea to bring along a good pair of hiking shoes for the descents, especially if your climbing shoes are not the most comfortable. Classic Climbs 5.4: Hermaphrodite Flake, Beginner’s Route 5.5: Tenaya Peak, Eichorn’s Pinnacle 5.6: Great White Book, Northwest Books, Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak 5.7: Hobbit Book, West Country, Matthes Crest 5.8: South Crack, Great Pumpkin 5.9: Aqua Knobby, On The Lamb, Blown Away, Regular Route on Fairview, West Crack, The Boltway, Roseanne, Crescent Arch 5.10a/b: Third Pillar of Dana (5.10a), Crying Time Again (5.10a), Cooke Book (5.10a), Crest Jewel (5.10a) 5.10c/d: Lucky Streaks (5.10d), Crest Jewel Direct (5.10d), Direct Northwest Face (5.10c), OZ (5.10d) 5.11: By Hook or by Crook, Bachar/Yerian, Blues Riff, Wailing Wall For more information on classic Tuolumne Meadows climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com Alternative Climbing Areas The famous Yosemite Valley is just over an hour away and is definitely worth a visit if you’ve never been. It usually has warmer temperatures and can be climbable if there’s bad weather in Tuolumne. Several good climb- ing areas can also be found around Bishop and Mammoth. Of course, Bishop’s bouldering is world famous, and Owen’s River Gorge offers amazing sport climbing. The Sierra Mountains have plenty of multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering options as well. The Lake Tahoe area has many great but smaller climbing areas, includ- ing Lover’s Leap, Phantom Spires and Eagle Lake. If it’s too cold to climb in Tuolumne, and you’re looking for warmer weather, you can always drive south to the Needles or even Joshua Tree. Climbing Shops The Tuolumne Meadows Mountain Shop is the closest climbing shop. The shop is adjacent to the gas station and you can reach them at 09-37-8436. They’re open from 8:30 am to 6 pm, and they offer a limited selection of climbing gear, camping gear, clothing, guidebooks, etc... For a bigger selection, specialty items or rentals, try Mammoth Mountaineering (3189 Main St, Mammoth Lakes; 888-395-3951), the Yosemite Valley Mountain Shop (09-37-8396) located in Curry Village, or Wilson’s Eastside Sports (4 North Main Street, Bishop; 760-873-750). Climbing Guides The Yosemite Mountaineering School and guide service provides an excellent range of climbing instructions and guided climbing in and around Tuolumne. They can be reached at 09-37-8344 / 866-387-5711. Inquire at the Mountain Shop adjacent to the gas station, they’re located in the same building. Climbing Gyms There are no climbing gyms in Tuolumne. Go play outside! In case of extended bad weather, drive to the Bay area where many climbing gyms can be found. Shoe Resole The Rubber Room is the place to go for the best resole. They’re located in Bishop, 175B North Main Street, Bishop, CA 93514. Call them at 760-872-1363 or 888-395-ROCK. Also check Barry’s Resoles for a local service (559-855-4511). Guide Books There are two main guidebooks available for Tuolumne Meadows: Tuolumne Free Climbs, Supertopo, Barnes, McNamara, Roper, Snyder, 2003. This guidebook contains de- tailed information on about 100 routes, from multi-pitch to one pitch cragging. Very detailed topos and precise information. The focus is on the most popular areas of Tuolumne and most routes range from 5.5 to 5.10 in difficulty. If you need 1 book for your first vist, this is it. Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows, Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein, 2006, Falcon Rock Climbing Guides Se- ries. This is the most comprehensive guidebook for the area. It covers a lot more routes (over 1000) and lesser known areas than the Supertopo. It contains information on trad and sport climbs, and also a little bouldering too. However, the topos and approach/descent information are not always the most precise, and some have reported a few mistakes.