Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology Research Article Open Access Spectrum of colors from reseda luteola and other natural yellow dyes Abstract Volume 4 Issue 2 - 2018 In our search for a good natural yellow dye, Reseda luteola L fresh extract of the flower, stem and leaves was found to have good colorant quality. As the dyed cotton, silk and wool Padma S Vankar, Dhara Shukla fabrics as well as yarn showed very good wash and light fastness properties, exploration Facility for Ecological and Analytical Testing, Indian Institute of Technology, India of dyeing potential of this wonderful dye extract under different pretreatment conditions, mordanting- pre and post with metal mordants, biomordant, enzymes and surfactants were Correspondence: Padma S Vankar, Facility for Ecological and carried out. Our study with Reseda extract showed the following results- bright yellow Analytical Testing, Indian Institute of Technology, 204 A Southern color with alum, olive green with copper sulphate and dark brown with ferrous sulphate. Block, Kanpur-208 016, India, Email [email protected] Sodium salt of Dodecyl benzene-sulphonic acid (SDBS) and Cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) as pretreatment have also been used. Combination of other natural dye Received: October 22, 2017 | Published: March 01, 2018 extracts with Reseda extract has been attempted. A wide spectrum of colors has been obtained ranging from canary yellow to olive green to orange. Keywords: reseda dye, mordants, biomordants, surfactants, combination of natural dyes Introduction luteolin extraction was 8.6g/kg of plant material. Preliminary dyeing tests on pre-mordanted raw cotton and wool standard specimens Yellow dyes have always been used from ancient times and gave greenish-yellow hue, acid perspiration fastness was found to be have been a color of marking festivity. Most of the yellow dyes are resistant to fading of dyed wool specimens was generally greater than flavonoids which are not stable to UV radiation. The dyed fabric shows that of cotton dyed samples.3 very poor wash and light fastnesses. In our quest for a stable yellow dye we started exploring all the possible sources of yellow natural dyes ranging from Curcuma rhizome, Eucalyptus barck Super Critical Fluid Extract (SCFE), Gaillardia flower, Thevetia peruviana flower, Tegetus flower, Punica granatum fruit epicarp, Cassia fistula flower, Cosmos sulphuerus flower, Carthamus flower and Reseda luteola flower, stem and leaves extracts. Since a lot of work had already been done for the identification of colorant in Reseda extract, some very pertinent questions arose to understand the mode of attachment of this colorant molecule on the fabric for stable dye adherence and unusual good fastness properties. Owing to its good thermal stability, the colorant can be extracted easily with water at alkaline pH or even with methanol: water mixtures. A method was applied to evaluate the influence of soil fertility on the production of flavonoids in Reseda dye. The results showed Figure 1 Reseda luteola L. (weld) dye flavonoids, luteolin, apigenin, luteolin that dye capacity is dependent on soil fertility and the origin of seeds. 7-O-glucoside. HPLC-diode array detector (DAD) methodology was developed to allow the simultaneous identification and quantification of The structural difference in the various yellow flower extracts Reseda luteola L. (weld) dye flavonoids, luteolin, apigenin, luteolin gives further insight into the uniqueness of Reseda extract. Curcuma 7-O-glucoside, apigenin 7-O-glucoside, luteolin 3’,7-O-diglucoside rhizome has main colorant as Curcumin with some Rutin flavonoid4 and luteolin 4’-O-glucoside1 as shown in Figure 1. The method was as shown in Figure 2. developed by Gaspar et al, for the simultaneous identification of Gaillardia flower extract consists of Sesqiterpene lactones, Reseda luteola L. (weld) flavonoids and quantification of the main aglycones and glycosilated flavonoids, dihydroxy flavonol and compounds responsible for the yellow color. This method was applied 6-methoxyethers5 as shown in Figure 3. to a large number of wild Portuguese welds to evaluate its potential application as dyestuff for textile factories, as a substitute for the Thevetia peruviana flowers have main flavonoids as quercetin, synthetic dyes currently used. All these molecules had good chelation Kaempferol and quercetin-7-O-galactoside6 as shown in Figure 4. with metals due to presence of oxo and hydroxyl groups. The complex Cosmos sulphureus flower extract consisted of as Fustin and stoichiometry ratio of aluminium and luteolin was found to be 1:2.2 quercetin7,8 as shown in Figure 5. The most appropriate leaching solvent for luteolin from leaves, Tegetus flower consists of Patuletin and Patulitrin flavonoids as stems and flowers ofReseda luteola was found to be methanol optimal their main constituents9 as shown in Figure 6. Submit Manuscript | http://medcraveonline.com J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2018;4(2):106-119. 106 © 2018 Vankar et al. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited. Copyright: Spectrum of colors from reseda luteola and other natural yellow dyes ©2018 Vankar et al. 107 Figure 2 Curcuma rhizome has main colorant as Curcumin with some Rutin flavonoid. Figure 5 Cosmos sulphureus flower extract consisted of as Fustin and quercetin. Figure 3 Gaillardia flower extract consists of glycosilated flavonoids, dihydroxy flavonol. Figure 6 Tegetus flower consists of Patuletin and Patulitrin flavonoids. Figure 4 Thevetia peruviana flowers have main flavonoids as quercetin, Kaempferol and quercetin-7-O-galactoside. Figure 7 Punica granatum consist of Myricetin, quercetin, Luteolin and Kaempferol. Punica granatum consist of Myricetin, quercetin, Luteolin and Kaempferol in the epicarp of its fruit10 as shown in Figure 7. It well known that flavonol based molecules- quercetin and kaempferol are found to be more prone to light induced fading than Cassia fistula yellow flower has Kaempferol, Catechin and flavones based luteolin and apigenin.15 Infact the latter ones darken proanthocyanidins as the main flavonoids11 as shown in Figure 8. with time. Carthamus tinctorius is also another plant with flavonoids such The preferred binding site depends on the flavonoids, metal and as acacetin, luteolin, quercetin, and their glucuronide, cinaroside, the pH. Even the binding sites differ for flavonol and flavones with 5-O-methylluteolin and rutin12 as shown in Figure 9. Al+3 at different pH. At alkaline pH flavonols have strongest affinity with Al+3 through their ortho dihydroxy group while flavones show The Supers Critical fluid extract of Eucalyptus Bark also is rich binding through site 4 and 5 of A and C rings or the catechol sites in in flavonoids such as Eriodictyol, naringenin and isorhamentin13,14 as ring B16,17 and shown in Figure 11. shown in Figure 10. Citation: Vankar PS, Shukla D, Spectrum of colors from reseda luteola and other natural yellow dyes. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2018;4(2):106-119. DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2018.04.00127 Copyright: Spectrum of colors from reseda luteola and other natural yellow dyes ©2018 Vankar et al. 108 may differ from plant to plant and species to species.18 Some plausible explanation can be given to the fact that the Table 1 shows such vast difference in wash, light fastnesses, solubility and dyeability of the natural extracts (Figure 12) (Figure 13). It is very apparent that among 10 different sources, Reseda excels in all the three parameters (Tables 2) (Table 3) (Figure 14). Figure 8 Cassia fistula yellow flower has Kaempferol, Catechin and proanthocyanidins. Figure 11 Ortho dihydroxy group while flavones show binding through site 4 and 5 of A and C rings or the catechol sites in ring B. Figure 9 Carthamus tinctorius is also another plant with flavonoids such as acacetin, luteolin, quercetin, and their glucuronide, cinaroside, 5-O-methylluteolin. Figure 12 Reseda extract with different mordants. Figure 10 Eucalyptus Bark is rich in flavonoids such as Eriodictyol, naringenin and isorhamentin. Most of the yellow dye plants contain colorant molecule from the group of hydroxyl flavones, however the combination of components Figure 13 Reseda plant. Citation: Vankar PS, Shukla D, Spectrum of colors from reseda luteola and other natural yellow dyes. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2018;4(2):106-119. DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2018.04.00127 Copyright: Spectrum of colors from reseda luteola and other natural yellow dyes ©2018 Vankar et al. 109 Table 1 Relative dyeability and fastness properties of extracts Dye plant Wash fastness Light fastness Dyeability Solubility in water Reseda Very Good Very Good Very Good Good Gaillardia Poor Poor Very Poor Poor Thevetia Poor Poor Poor Poor Tegetus Good Good Good Poor Punica Good Good Good Good Cassia Very poor Very Poor Very Poor Poor Cosmos Good Good Good Poor Carthamus Good Good Good Poor Curcuma Poor Poor Poor Good Eucalyptus SCFE Good Good Good Poor Table 2 Reseda extract with different mordants CIE lab Reseda Rl + maddar RL+catechu RL+eupatorium RL+indigo L* 64.565 43.242 15.778 48.442 64.867 a* -6.463 14.572 25.994 7.394 -33.62 b* 47.577 42.009 27.175 45.367 12.703 C* 48.014 44.465 37.605 45.966 35.94 H* 97.769 70.841 46.254 80.711 159.31 dE* ----- 30.465 62.047 21.374 44.202 Color Yellow Orange Brown Olive green Turquiose Table 3 Reseda