Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels Vienna July - August 2016 Parks & Gardens Summer in the city Prater fun All about Vienna's amuseument park inyourpocket.com N°35 - €1.75 Contents History 5 Arriving in Vienna 6 Getting your bearings on S, U and tram Getting Around 7 Plains, trains, automobiles Vienna Districts 8 Getting streetwise Basics 9 Volksgarten Pavillon © Gregor Lechner Essential travel tips Culture & Events 10 Coffeehouses 32 Concerts, exhibitions and more Coffee, cake & culture The Prater 16 Heurigen & Wine bars 36 Vienna’s prime amusement park Wine, wine and Wien City of Classical Music 18 Nightlife 37 Vienna sounds good Bars, clubs and other dark rooms Restaurants 20 Sightseeing 42 From Wiener Schnitzel to BBQ From imperial to contemporary Day trips 47 The best sights around Vienna Jewish Vienna 48 Synagogues & museums Expat Vienna 50 Children’s Vienna 52 It’s a child’s world Shopping 53 Whatever you want Hotels 57 From park bench to Park Grand Directory 61 Maps & Index Street register 62 Centre map 63-65 Venue index 66 Old Danube river © istockphoto facebook.com/ViennaInYourPocket July - August 2016 3 Foreword Vienna is more enticing that ever in her green summer robes, when the parks are full of life and the restaurants Publisher In Your Pocket GmbH full of diners discovering there's more to Austrian cuisine Axel-Springer-Straße 39 than schnitzel. There's a ton of fun to be had this summer 10969 Berlin – check our events pages for concerts and summer Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81 festivals, or head into a museum on a rainy day. There's a Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50 great exhibition about hats at the Wien Museum, or what Vienna office Tel: +43 664 131 85 97 about the Béton concrete architecture exhibition at the [email protected] Kunsthalle Wien? www.inyourpocket.com Printed by Ueberreuter Druckzentrum GmbH Whatever you do in Vienna this summer, do let us Circulation 15,000 copies bimonthly know your tips, comments and complaints at vienna@ Editorial inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Vienna. Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Contributors Paul Nogid, Dune Johnson, Gretl Satorius Layout Tomáš Haman; Photos Evi Bauer, Reinhard Böhm COVER STORY Maps IYP GmbH Cover © Gregor Lechner Take some time to relax in Vienna's largest inner-city park this summer. Sales & Circulation The 1950s-style Pavillon café in the General Manager Stephan Krämer lovely Volksgarten is a great spot Production Manager Philippe Krüger for coffee and cake - or for beer and Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Managers Stefan Bauer, Mario Böhm cocktails in the evening, when DJs take over the decks. See p.27 for more Copyright notice & Editor’s note details. Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright In Your Pocket GmbH 2010-2016. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form with- out written permission from the copyright owner. The IYP & LES CLEFS D’OR brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania The Vienna In Your Pocket city guide is of- tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). ficially endorsed by Les Clefs D’Or (www. The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent clefsdor.at), the Austrian Hotel Concierge from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to Association, with collaboration in the ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no fields of content and distribution. responsibility for changes and errors. ABOUT IYP In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides ESTONIA since 1992, recently launched a brand LATVIA RUSSIA new smartphone app: In Your Pocket NORTHERN LITHUANIA IRELAND City Essentials. Featuring only hand- IRELAND BELARUS picked venues and sights alongside NETHERLANDS POLAND GERMANY UKRAINE essential travel information, these city BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC guides have been carefully crafted by AUSTRIA our local editors and include only the HUNGARY SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA places they are happy to recommend. SLOVENIACROATIA ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA The app - available on both iOS and BULGARIA MONTENEGRO Android - is free, and works offline. Go FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to GREECE download it. DUTCH CARIBBEAN To keep up with all that’s new at In SOUTH AFRICA Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). 4 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com History Starting off as a tiny village along the Wien river, Vienna is now the 10th largest city in the EU and home to many FROM THE MAYOR major international organizations such as the United Nations and OPEC. Vienna is a city of dreams. A city full of life, economic vi- tality, efficient transportation, ANTIQUITY numerous modern buildings Founded around 500 BC, Vienna was originally a Celtic and architectural gems. A city settlement. By 15 BCE, the town had developed into a that offers people work and the Roman frontier city called Vindobona, protecting the youth a wide range of oppor- Roman Empire from Germanic tribes. tunities. Vienna is also the city of green parks, calm, dreamy alleys, art and music. This city © Stadt Wien/PID, HABSBURGS attracts people. Vienna is grow- Photo: Hubert Dimko AND OTTOMANS ing; life can be felt on every corner and in every street. During the Middle Ages, Vienna became the residence Vienna is rightly deemed a city worth living in, a model of the Habsburg dynasty in 1440 and eventually grew to of providing medical and social benefits. become the capital of the Holy Roman Empire. On their As the headquarters of international agencies such march towards western Europe, the Ottoman armies as OPEC, the UN and the International Atomic Energy were twice stopped at Vienna in the 16th and 17th Agency, Vienna is also a cosmopolitan city of culture centuries. During the 1529 Siege of Vienna, the city was and gastronomy. The rich spectrum of cultural offerings lucky to escape defeat and was saved by an early winter makes Vienna a leading cultural metropolis; one often and epidemics. A century later, the city’s fortifications hears the term “international capital of music” connect- had been greatly expanded and proved their worth ed with it. The Viennese music institutions with their during the 1683 Battle of Vienna, when they helped grand tradition constantly keep this reputation fresh the city survive for two months, allowing the army led and carry it forth into the world. by Polish King Jan Sobieski to assemble and defeat the In the best tradition of the many Viennese markets, Ottomans for good. I can only say: have a look around! Welcome to Vienna! Dr. Michael Häupl 18TH CENTURY Baroque was the style of the century, and local nobility started constructing palaces in the countryside immediately built, but also shelling of locals supporting the socialist outside the city, resulting in several magnificent summer militia by the Austrian Army during the 1934 civil war. palaces. Adolf Hitler – himself an Austrian – triumphantly TH marched into town and spoke from the Hofburg balcony 19 CENTURY during the Anschluss (‘joining’) of Austria in 1938. Vienna became the capital of the huge Austrian Vienna’s thousands of Jews suffered badly, harassed by Empire in 1804, and later of the Austro-Hungarian both the state and anti-Semitic citizens, and decimated Empire, playing an important role in European and by the Holocaust. world politics. The arts blossomed, and classical music witnessed golden years. The rule of Emperor Franz Vienna was badly damaged in 1944 and 1945 during Joseph I transformed the city; the city walls were the Soviet advance, but largely reconstructed in the demolished to make way for the Ringstraße boulevard 1950s-60s, with the city centre proclaimed a UNESCO lined lined with impressive buildings, the city expanded World Heritage Site in 2001. Post-war Vienna was divided to include, and the Danube river which caused serious into sectors ruled by The USA, UK, France and the Soviet floods was canalised and tamed. Union just like Berlin. The occupation lasted 10 years, in which time spies from east and west played their Cold 20TH CENTURY War games. Industrialisation of and immigration to Vienna lead to a Austria regained full independence in 1955, and period of expansion. By 1910, Vienna was the sixth largest from the 1970s Vienna became the host city of many city in the world, with large numbers of Czech and Jewish important international organisations, including various residents. The city was a centre of the new Jugendstil style UN agencies, OPEC, the International Atomic Energy from 1900. The Austro-Hungarian Empire fell apart at the Agency and OSCE. The crumbling of the Iron Curtain in end of the First World War and in 1918 the Republic of 1989 profoundly changed the city’s outlook, and there’s Deutsch-Österreich was created. Socialism quickly became good cooperation with nearby Bratislava in Slovakia popular and “Red Vienna” saw many residential estates now. facebook.com/ViennaInYourPocket July - August 2016 5 Arriving in Vienna Taking a taxi to the centre takes about 15 minutes. If you CITY AIRPORT TRAIN just hop into a waiting taxi outside, the ride will cost about €45, including the fee for returning to the airport empty; it costs €33 if you mention to the driver or dispatcher that you’d like the set price (Pauschaltariff). BY TRAIN Vienna’s new Wien Hauptbahnhof (central station) is a short distance from the city centre; hop on tram D to reach the Ring. There are plenty of luggage lockers and ATMs for fresh arrivals, and there’s a helpful tourist information office.