About Palermo Located in the northwest of the island of Sicily, in the Tyrrhenian Sea, Palermo is a buzzing Mediterranean centre, whose 1 million inhabitants are a fascinating cocktail of apparently conflicting characteristics. With its 2,700-years of history, Palermo has seen many different dominations, including the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Greeks, the Romans, the Saracen Arabs, the Normans, the Swabians, the French and the Spanish Bourbons just to name the most influential. These dominations created an intriguing fusion of people, architectural styles, languages and even ingredients used in the local dishes. The city is full of contradictions: elegant liberty villas and essential Arabic fortress, wonderful palaces and damaged buildings in the old center, baroque churches full of decorations and Norman churches with red domes, modern shopping areas and local markets (whose Arabic origins are still evident today thanks to their noise, smells, colors, narrow labyrinthine streets and the general ‘souk’ atmosphere). Visiting Palermo is a continuous trip among centuries and cultures that will make your experience memorable! A shortcut for your visit There are many different things that can be experienced in Palermo, including historical, natural and gastronomical itineraries. As a quick reference, we here provide a short summary of all the key places of the city not to miss: 1. The Royal Palace (called the Palazzo dei Normanni) with the extraordinary Cappella Palatina. It was the seat of the Kings in Sicily during the Norman domination and served afterwards as the main seat of power for the subsequent rulers of Sicily; Figure 1 – Royal Chapel with byzantine gold mosaics and muqarnas wooden ceiling. Figure 2 – The Royal Palace 2. the Zisa castle, a summer residence of the Norman Kings inspired by Moorish architecture. The name Zisa itself derives from the Arab term al-Azîz, meaning "noble", "glorious", "magnificent"; Figure 3 – The Zisa Castle and garden 3. the Duomo di Monreale, with its gold byzantine mosaics, and the Cathedral, which summarizing the history of the city from the byzantine times to the neo-classical ones. Emperor Frederick II, "Stupor Mundi" is buried here; Figure 4 – Cathedral of Palermo 4. The Baroque Churches of San Domenico, a burial-place for illustrious politicians and artists, and Casa Professa, with its unique decoration features of intricate intarsia (stone inlay); Figure 5 – An example of Baroque Church in Palermo: San Giuseppe dei Teatini 5. The Arabic-Norman Churches of San Cataldo, Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, and San Giovanni degli Eremiti with the red domes and the Chiesa dello Spasimo (in the Kalsa district); Figure 6 – Church of San Cataldo with the typical Red Domes Figure 7 – Church of Santa Maria dello Spasimo in the Kalsa district 6. the Capuchin Monastery with its impressive catacombs and mummy collection, where the relatives were used to visit the deceased people whose embalmed bodies were exposed. This somehow macabre attraction is an interesting representation of the deep relationship between life and death for Sicilians; 7. the Gardens: the English Garden, villa Malfitano, the Botanical Garden, villa Garibaldi and the Favorita’s Park, where it's possible to admire many exotic plants, secular trees, as well as statues and fountain; Figure 8 – Botanic Gardens 8. the Opera Houses: Teatro Massimo, the biggest lyric theater in Italy designed by Giovan Battista Filippo Basile renowned for its perfect acoustics, and the neoclassic Politeama; Figure 9 ‐ Teatro Massimo Opera House Figure 10 – Teatro Politeama Opera House 9. the Markets of Vucciria, Ballarò and Capo. These are the perfect place to discover the ingredients of Sicilian cooking and the local market atmospheres; Figure 11 – An example of typical market 10. the Beach: Modello, the sandy beach lying between Monte Pellegrino and Monte Gallo. Born as a small fishing village close to Palermo, it is now a center of tourism and the home of the World Windsurfing Festival. Figure 12 ‐ Mondello Beach Figure 13‐ Mondello Beach as it appears from Monte Pellegrino Figure 14 – Church of Santa Maria della Catena, Piazza Marina Figure 15 – Utveggio Castle on the top of Monte Pellegrino Three walking itineraries (http://www.thinksicily.com/guide-to-sicily/towns-and-cities-in-sicily/palermo.aspx) Itinerary 1: From the Quattro Canti to the Norman Palace The "Quattro Canti" The “Quattro Canti” is the junction in Palermo. Effectively, it is the centre point of the four areas of the old town centre. You will almost inevitably pass through it and it is worth stopping for five minutes to have a look at its sculptures which were commissioned by the Spanish Viceroy in 1611. The sculptures on each of the four corners depict a variety of themes, including the four seasons, four Spanish kings and the four patron saints of the old town areas. Piazza Pretoria Going south-east down Via Maqueda you will come across Piazza Pretoria which is home not only to a splendid fountain but several other impressive buildings including, on the right, the City Hall. The fountain, known for generations as the “Fountain of Shame”, has an interesting history. It was originally built in 1555 by the Florentine sculpture Francesco Camiliani for a Tuscan villa owned by the Viceroy Pedro de Toledo. His son, on inheriting the villa in 1574, thought it a little too risqué for his tastes and sold it to the City of Palermo who erected it where it now stands. The large central fountain is the focal point for sixteen nude statues of nymphs, humans, mermaids and satyrs. If you imagine this being erected during the Inquisition, it is quite easy to imagine why it received its epithet, the “Fountain of Shame”. The Church of Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio (La Martorana) Behind the City Hall, there is another square, Piazza Bellini where you can see two of Palermo’s most interesting churches: the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (more commonly known as La Martorana) and the Church of San Cataldo, instantly recognizeable thanks to its trio of red domes. La Martorana was commissioned in 1143 by George of Antioch, a famous Admiral (a word of Arabic origin) of the fleet of King Roger II. Initially the church was dedicated to the celebration of Greek Orthodox rites but this changed in the 13th century when it became part of the Catholic Church. Several parts of the structure were unfortunately changed during the 17th century and many of the original mosaics were discarded to make way for Baroque frescoes. However, the surviving mosaics are amongst the most impressive ever to have been created in Sicily. Indeed, the craftsmen who were brought from Byzantium by King Roger II to work on the Normal Palace and the Duomo at Cefalu’, also contributed their art to this church. The wonderful bell tower outside is the apogee of Norman- Arab architecture. The Church of San Cataldo Standing next to La Martorana is the miniscule Church of San Cataldo, characterised by its three red domes. It was built in 1154 and has retained its original ascetic atmosphere perfectly. The only decoration to speak of is the original mosaic floor. It is presently the religious seat of the Knights of the Holy Sepulchre in Palermo. The Casa Professa The Casa Professa or Chiesa del Gesù is a Baroque masterpiece built by the Jesuits over 12 years between 1564 and 1578. Additions were made until 1634 when the church was considered complete. Much of the artwork inside was carried out by the Jesuit priests themselves and its florid decorations were, and still are, amongst the most splendid in Palermo. The Ballaro' The Ballarò is probably the oldest of Palermo’s Arabic markets. The derivation of its name is unsure but may come from the name of the North African village where most of the Arabic traders working in the market originated: Balhara. Nowadays, the market’s Arabic roots are still evident and it is well worth a detour if not a specific visit. The Church of San Giuseppe dei Teatini This church, built in 1612, is a must-see for anyone who loves Baroque architecture. If you do not, it might be a good idea to stay away, though it is still quite impressive. Amongst the great many works of art inside is a painting entitled “The Triumph of Sant’Andrea Avellino” by the Dutch artist Borremans dating back to 1724. There is also a great deal of skilled marble-work to be seen. Around the Norman Palace The area around the Norman Palace has long been the seat of Kings and rulers and today it plays host to the Sicilian Regional Parliament. Piazza Indipendenza and Porta Nuova used to mark Palermo’s southern boundary though nowadays the city spreads right up to the Conca d’Oro valley under Monreale. The Norman Palace is flanked on either side by large shady piazzas, Piazza Indipendenza to the south and Piazza della Vittoria to the north. La Capella Palatina (The Palatine Chapel) Probably the most visited monument in Palermo and should not be missed. Built in 1130, the same year in which King Roger II acceded to the throne of the Norman kingdom, the Cappella Palatina is a small, compact masterpiece hidden away inside the Royal Palace. Once again it is characterised by a fusion of different architectural styles, most evidently the Byzantine mosaics and the wooden Arabic honeycombed ceiling. Other parts of the Norman Palace are also open to the public. The Cathedral Built towards the end of the 12-th century over pre-existing structures, has been much altered, especially in the 18-th century, the period from which the majestic dome and the interior date. The original style is visible in the apses, which have preserved their geometric decoration, while the porch on the south side, in Catalan Gothic style, is 15-th century.
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